潮流及单向流作用下海底沙波形成和运移试验

基于量纲分析理论进行水槽试验,研究了潮流以及单向流作用下海底沙波的形成和发展过程。通过分析 海床地形数据,对海底沙波的特征尺度和发展过程进行定量描述,得出了潮流流速、周期、水深以及叠加单向流等因素对沙波特征尺度的影响。结果表明,潮流作用产生的海底地貌由大尺度的沙波和小尺度的沙纹共同组成,大尺度沙波在地貌形态塑造中占主导地位。从平坦海床开始,沙波波高和波长随水流作用逐渐增大,增长速度越来越慢,最终达到动态平衡。沙波特征波高和特征波长随流速和水深增大而增大,同时随往复流周期的增大而增大,并不断趋近于单向水流的情况。进一步对小尺度的沙纹地貌进行分析,得出了沙纹特征尺度随水流条件的变化规律。     

两相流模型在南海内孤立波与沙波相互作用中的应用

为研究内孤立波与沙波的相互作用,本文对基于OpenFOAM的SedWaveFoam求解器进行改进,建立了内孤立波-泥沙运动欧拉两相流模型。在利用试验资料对模型进行验证的基础上,在南海北部典型代表性条件下,模拟分析了500 m水深位置沙波床面上内孤立波作用下的水动力变化和泥沙运动。结果表明,内孤立波逐渐离开沙波时,海底沙波背流面处出现与内孤立波背景流速反向的流速,在内孤立波导致的流场作用下,沙波床面上的泥沙悬起并运动到床面以上的水体中。振幅100 m的内孤立波可以导致床面以上14 m高的位置处出现约0.07 kg/m³的悬沙浓度。     

基于浅地层剖面的海底浅表层沉积物物理性质参数反演技术研究

海底浅表层（小于1 m）沉积物的物理性质,如粒度、孔隙度、密度等是海洋沉积学研究和海洋工程地质分析的重要内容,目前主要基于有限的海底取样或原位测试获取这些沉积物的物理性质。浅地层剖面是基于声学信号（频率几千赫兹）在沉积物中的传播得到可反映沉积地层结构的数据,其中的一些声学参数,如海底反射系数、波阻抗等与沉积物物理性质密切相关。如何充分而有效地利用浅地层剖面资料,反演得到剖面覆盖区海底浅表层沉积物的物理性质参数,极具科学意义和应用价值,且基于声学属性反演沉积物物理性质是当前研究的热点。为此,本文基于渤海LD16-3CEPA至LD10-1PAPD路由段的浅地层剖面数据和海底表层沉积物的实测物理参数,利用Biot-Stoll模型建立研究区海底反射系数和沉积物物理性质之间的关系,并基于浅地层剖面数据计算得到的海底反射系数,反演了研究区海底浅表层沉积物的孔隙度、密度、平均粒径等物理性质参数。其中反演的孔隙度、密度、平均粒径与实测孔隙度、密度、平均粒径基本相符,偏差度基本都在20%的偏差范围内,表明该反演方法在该区的应用是可行的。     

Wave refraction–diffraction effect in the wind wave model WWM

Based on the extended mild-slope equation, the wind wave model (WWM; Hsu et al., 2005) is modified to account for wave refraction, diffraction and reflection for wind waves propagating over a rapidly varying seabed in the presence of current. The combined effect of the higher-order bottom effect terms is incorporated into the wave action balance equation through the correction of the wavenumber and propagation velocities using a refraction–diffraction correction parameter. The relative importance of additional terms including higher-order bottom components, the wave–bottom interaction source term and wave–current interaction that influence the refraction–diffraction correction parameter is discussed. The applicability of the proposed model to calculate a wave transformation over an elliptic shoal, a series of parallel submerged breakwater induced Bragg scattering and wave–current interaction is evaluated. Numerical results show that the present model provides better predictions of the wave amplitude as compared with the phase-decoupled model of Holthuijsen et al. (2003).     

海南岛东部外陆架水下埋藏古三角洲

海南岛东部外陆架水深１００～１５０ｍ处,存在一个大面积的水下埋藏古三角洲,从浅地层记录中发现,这片水下古三角洲保存有完好的三角洲沉积结构,特别是前积层的倾斜层理十分清晰,该水下古三角洲的存在是古海岸线的一个证据。     

Note on sediment sorting in a sandy bed under standing water waves

We present new quantitative data on the sorting of sediments on a sandy seabed under standing waves. Starting from a flat bed composed of a homogeneous mixture of a coarse and a fine sand with mean diameters 0.11 and 0.21 mm, we observed simultaneous ripple and sand bar formation and sand sorting on the seabed. Over days of wave action, sand bars formed with crests beneath the surface wave nodes and flat plateaus flanked by mounds beneath the antinodes. Bar crests were composed of sand coarser on average than 0.21 mm, while the flat plateaus were covered by sand finer on average than 0.11 mm. Comparison with two experiments involving sand beds of more homogeneous size distributions shows that the mounds are characteristic of the motion of fine suspensions.     

On waves propagating over poro-elastic seabed

In this study, an analytical solution is developed for the problem of periodic waves propagating over a poro-elastic seabed of infinite depth. Water waves above the seabed are described using the linear wave theory. The poro-elastic seabed is modelled based on the Biot theory in which the inertia effect and Darcy's friction are added. Continuity of dynamic pressure and flow flux at the interfacial seabed surface are considered. Adopting an approach similar to Hsu et al. (1993), the governing equations for the pore pressure and displacements of the poro-elastic medium are derived. The present analytic solution compares favorably well with experimental results by Yamamoto et al. (1978), and analytical results by Song (1993) for the case of fine sand. Using the present theory, variations of the wavelength and fluid pressure caused by coupling of waves and the poro-elastic seabed are discussed. Results show that higher elasticity of the poro-elastic seabed induces larger interface pressure, but higher permeability causes smaller pressure on the seabed interface. The wave length is affected by the poro-elastic seabed and becomes shorter for softer seabed and shallower water depth.     

波浪荷载及土体特性对风电单桩基础水平变形影响规律

大直径单桩基础是海上风电应用广泛的一种基础形式,严格控制桩基泥面处的位移是保证基础稳定和风机安全运营的关键因素.通过数值方法建立了单桩—海床的三维模型,将可以描述海洋砂土超固结性和结构性的弹塑性本构模型通过UMAT子程序嵌入有限元软件ABAQUS中,桩基承受的波浪荷载通过Morison方程进行计算模拟.针对无波浪荷载、仅作用于海床的波浪荷载、同时作用于桩基和海床的波浪荷载三种情况,分析了海床土的动力响应以及桩基的水平位移之间的差异,探讨了海床土体参数对桩基水平变形的影响.研究结果表明海床土体液化会导致桩基水平变形增加,海床土渗透性、超固结性、结构性对桩基水平位移影响显著,研究成果可为海上风电单桩基础的设计与运维提供参考.     

Forced convection accompanying wind waves

Wind-wave tunnel experiments reveal, by use of techniques of the flow visualization, that wind waves are accompanied by the wind drift surface current with large velocity shear and with horizontal variation of velocity relative to the wave profile. The surface current converges from the crest to a little leeward face of the crest, making a downward flow there, even though the wave is not breaking. Namely, wind waves are accompanied by forced convections relative to the crests of the waves. Since the location of the convergence and the downward flow travels on the water surface as the crest of the wave propagates, the motion as a whole is characterized by turbulent structure as well as by the nature of water-surface waves. In this meaning, the term of real wind waves is proposed in contrast with ordinary water waves. The study of real wind waves will be essential in future development of the study of wind waves.     

Wave dispersion equation in a porous seabed

The wave dispersion equation has played a very important role in the development of ocean surface wave theories. The evaluation of the length of a water wave is an essential example of solving the dispersion relation. Conventional ocean wave theories have been based on an assumption of a rigid impermeable seabed. Thus, the conventional wave dispersion equation can only be used in the case of a wave propagating over a rigid impermeable seabed. For waves propagating over a porous seabed (such as a sandy bed), the conventional dispersion relation is no longer valid because of the absence of the characteristics of the porous seabed. The objective of this study is to establish a new wave dispersion equation for waves propagating over a porous seabed. Based on the new relation, the effects of a porous seabed on wave characteristics (such as the wavelength and wave profile) are discussed in detail.     

Sand wave deposition in the Taiwan Shoal of China

The Taiwan Shoal is the convex terrain in the southern Taiwan Strait, the largest strait in China. In 2006 and 2007, 21 samples and more than 200-km sub-bottom data as well as 80-km near shore side-scan sonar data were gotten, which gave an initial image of the boundaries of the Taiwan Shoal and revealed the internal structure of the sand waves in this area. The results showed that the major component of the sediment samples was sand, and sand waves occurred everywhere in this area, which closely followed the range of the Taiwan Shoal as we know. The western boundary of the Taiwan Shoal thus reaches the 30 m isobaths near the shore, and as a result, its area potentially covers approximately 12 800-14 770 km². The sand waves have different shapes under the complex ocean dynamics, and the height of sand waves in the near shore is usually smaller than that in the Taiwan Shoal. The number of sand waves ranged from 1-5 per kilometer, with more waves in the isobath-intensive area, suggesting the importance of topography for the formation of sand waves. The stratigraphic structure under the seabed has parallel bedding or cross bedding, and large dipping groove bedding can be seen locally in different parts, which may be the result of terrestrial deposition since the Late Pleistocene.     

亚洲快线海底光缆香港段路由条件及评价

根据在亚洲快线海底光缆香港段(水深小于300m区域)开展的路由勘察中获取的浅地层剖面、侧扫声纳、柱状取样、多波束等数据,同时结合该区域的自然环境特征,对路由区的海底工程地质条件、自然环境条件等进行了详细的分析。通过分析发现,路由区海底地形无大的起伏,平均坡度小于0.3%;路由区跨越了淤泥/粘土质、砂质以及沙波区海底,其中发现的沙波最大波高达3~4m;路由区地震活动强度小,属于地壳稳定性较好的地区;路由区海底面存在沉船、抛弃物等海底障碍物。综合所有获取的数据和信息,在路由跨越大型沙波及距离障碍物太近的区域,对路由线路进行了适当调整,调整后的路由基本适合海底光缆的铺设,同时也提出了一些建议。     

A probabilistic analysis of random wave-induced liquefaction

Seabed instability caused by soil liquefaction due to build-up of excess pore pressure within the sedimentary seabed represents a serious threat to coastal structures. Models of varying sophistication exist for predicting the liquefaction process but most previous calculations are limited to regular waves while the real waves are random. In this study, a numerical study of liquefaction potential of a sand bed under narrow-band random waves is carried out employing ensemble modelling techniques. The aim of the work is to investigate the effect of random waves on excess pore pressure build-up and liquefaction processes and study the probability distribution of the maximum liquefaction depth. The computational results using a 1D liquefaction model indicate that the random wave-induced liquefaction can be much deeper than that of the corresponding regular waves with the largest individual waves in the random wave time series playing a dominant role in determining the maximum liquefaction depth. It is also found that the time for the maximum liquefaction depth to be reached can vary considerably from one random wave series to another, which suggests that in random waves notable densification may occur within the same timeframe as that for liquefaction.     

Nonlinear effects of the distribution of amplitudes of sea waves

The effect of nonlinearities, such as wave-breaking and vertical asymmetry associated with sea waves, on the distribution of wave amplitudes is explored. Semiclosed theoretical expressions are derived to describe the distributions of breaking-limited crest and trough amplitudes for Stokes-type nonlinear sea waves. These are compared with the conventional Rayleigh distribution appropriate to linear wave amplitudes. The construction of nonlinear wave envelopes with the fast Fourier transform technique is described. The technique can be utilized to enlarge the data base in empirical analyses of field records which typically contain limited information on amplitude characteristics. The theoretical distributions and the proposed data enlargement technique are demonstrated with the analysis of a nonlinear wave record.     

中国台湾浅滩海砂砂体的地球物理特征及有利赋存标志*

探测查明海砂分布及其资源量, 对海洋矿产资源规划和社会经济发展有重要意义。利用在中国台湾浅滩采集的单波束测深、侧扫声呐、浅地层剖面、单道地震等多源地球物理数据, 识别出海底沙脊、沙波、埋藏古河道等有利于海砂赋存的地貌标志, 以及厚泥盖层等不利标志, 它们在平面上渐变交错分布。地球物理数据与表层沉积物、钻孔岩心结果对比, 证实浅地层剖面能有效识别表层砂体上部和排除厚泥盖层(厚度>10m), 表层砂体上部呈断续中弱振幅杂乱反射; 单道地震剖面能有效识别砂-泥地层界面, 垂向上刻画表层及埋藏砂体形态, 砂体最主要的特征为连续性差的弱振幅反射中夹杂空白、杂乱的“白雾”反射。砂体响应特征反映了砂体声学较难穿透的特性, 同时也可能是砂体含气所致。分析表明在砂体形态多变或钻孔分布密度低时, 利用地球物理方法, 结合一定数量的钻孔岩心约束, 相比仅依靠大量钻孔岩心, 可更为经济、高效地对砂体的垂向形态和平面展布进行精细刻画, 从而有利于更准确地估算海砂的资源量。     

浅水多次波衰减技术在多道地震数据处理中的应用

拖缆采集的海上多道地震数据受海水间传播的多次波影响,往往在共炮点道集上发育周期性的强振幅干扰波,这些噪音会掩盖海底以下及强反射层以下地层的面貌,严重影响多道地震数据的成像效果。为了消除海上多道地震数据中存在的海水间传播的多次波对地震数据的干扰,首先分析浅水多次波在海水间多次震荡的产生机制,采用了τ-P域静校正延迟技术对其进行压制,处理的核心是在τ-P域对周期性多次波模型进行预测,再通过自适应相减以去除地震数据中的多次波。实际资料处理结果表明,方法对海水间震荡的浅水多次波具有很好的压制效果,经过浅水多次波去除后的叠加剖面信噪比得到有效提高,剖面的品质得以提升。     

波浪作用下沙质海床上大直径圆筒结构动态响应的实验研究

通过物理模型实验,对沙质海床上沉入式大直径圆筒结构对波浪的动态响应进行了较系统的实验研究。实验中考虑了大直径圆筒、波浪和海床三者之间的耦合作用,并实时记录了大直径圆筒结构的动态响应。实验数据分析表明,大直径圆筒在波浪作用下的动态响应以大圆筒随波浪的前后摆动为主,其摆动轴心并不是固定不变的。最后通过回归分析给出了估算大直径圆筒摆动转角幅值的经验公式。     

Simulating offshore sand waves

Sand waves form a prominent regular pattern in the offshore seabeds of sandy shallow seas and pose a threat to a range of offshore activities. A two-dimensional vertical (2DV) flow and morphological simulation model describing the behaviour of these sand waves has been developed. The simulation model contains the 2DV shallow water equations, with a free water surface and a general bed load formula. The water movement is coupled to the sediment transport equation with a seabed evolution equation. The domain is non-periodic in both directions. The spatial discretisation is performed by a spectral method based on Chebyshev polynomials. A fully implicit method is chosen for the discretisation in time. Firstly, we validate the simulation model mathematically by reproducing the results obtained using a linear stability analysis for infinitely small sand waves. Hereby, we investigate a steady current situation induced by a wind stress applied at the sea surface. The bed forms we find have wavelengths in the order of hundreds of metres when the resistance at the seabed is relatively large. The results show that it is possible to model the initial evolution of sand waves with a numerical simulation model. This paper forms the necessary first step to investigate the intermediate term behaviour of sand waves.