WaMoS Ⅱ测波雷达应用及对比分析

利用大万山海洋环境监测站WaMoS Ⅱ雷达测量的数据与同步SZF遥测波浪浮标、SLC9-2型直读式海流计的数据分别进行了对比分析。结果表明WaMoS Ⅱ测波雷达获取的有效波高、波峰周期、表面流速、流向等海洋物理要素的变化趋势与SZF遥测波浪浮标获取的波浪数据及SLC9-2型直读式海流计测到的海流数据有较好的一致性。其中,2012年6月16—22日雷达和遥测波浪浮标对比结果为:波高、周期的相关系数分别为0.71,0.38,平均相对误差分别为23.3%,12.5%。6月28—29日的对比结果为:流速、流向的相关系数分别为0.83,0.89,平均相对误差分别为14.5%,4.1%。其中,WaMoS Ⅱ系统测量的有效波高值需通过对比分析进行校准,本文利用的对比分析数据时间序列较短,但经校准后,有效波高值的相关性仍可升至0.75。     

波浪浮标数据比测评估

海浪是我国海洋环境业务化观测要素之一,也是海洋预报的重要参数之一,波浪观测仪器对海浪长期、稳定、准确的观测直接影响了科学研究和海洋海岸工程设计的科学性和合理性。为此,波浪观测仪器需进行室内实验室测试和室外海上测试,但目前进入业务化系统的波浪观测仪器一般只进行了实验室计量检定,缺乏现场测试评价。现阶段,用于波浪观测的主要仪器为重力式波浪浮标,为进一步检验重力式测波浮标的稳定性、可靠性,验证波浪数据的有效性、准确性,本文设计了实验室和海上比测试验,分析对比了国内外几种主流测波浮标的观测结果,总体来看,山东省科学院海洋仪器仪表研究所的SBF3-2型波浪浮标和国家海洋技术中心的SBF6-1型波浪浮标观测效果最好,准确性较高,稳定性较强。     

Morse-3型S波段测波雷达比对试验结果分析

为了评价Morse-3型S波段测波雷达试验数据的有效性和实际观测效果,在遮浪岛附近以MKⅢ型波浪骑士浮标作为比对仪器进行试验.比对结果显示,所有参数的测量结果均略高于比对仪器的测量结果,且两者的相关性较好,平均波高和对应波周期测量结果最好.波高数据相关系数为0.936,误差介于(-0.1～0.1)m和(-0.2～0.2)m的概率分别为58.59％和99.38％;波周期误差介于(-1.5～1.5)s的概率为64.18％,误差标准偏差为0.50 s.     

SZF2-1A型多参数波浪试验浮标波浪要素海上比测试验与初步分析

通过海上比测试验,对新研制的SZF2-1A型多参数波浪试验浮标系统的工作稳定性、波浪传感器测量准确性进行全面客观评价。采用MARKⅡ波浪骑士的测量数据作为参比,结果表明,试验浮标与波浪骑士所测数据具有良好的一致性:两种仪器间最大波高相关系数为0.96,均方根误差为0.33 m,有效波高相关系数为0.99,均方根误差为0.13 m,相对误差为6.0%,平均波高相关系数为0.98,均方根误差为0.088 m,相对误差为6.2%;两种仪器所测有效波高、平均波高对应周期的一致性比较好,相关系数分别达到0.86和0.87;两种仪器所测波向相关系数为0.77。总体上得出结论:试验浮标运行状态稳定,波浪传感器测量准确可靠。     

基于三种测波方法的实测数据对比分析

近海海洋工程波浪观测中较为广泛使用的测波方法主要包括压力式测波、声学测波和重力式测波等。三种观测方法各有优势,需根据历史资料、地理环境和任务目的设计合理的观测形式,可以选择一种或多种形式组合的形式,以达到最佳的观测效果。使用GPS测波浮标、AWAC声学海流/波浪测量仪和TWR-2050压力式波潮仪的实测资料进行了对比分析,结果显示,测波浮标与AWAC所测数据相关性较一致;TWR压力波潮仪与AWAC测量的波高趋势基本一致,但周期短、波高小的海域和时间段测量准确度较差。     

基于LPB1-2型声学测波仪资料的近岸浪特征分析

为研究近岸浪的形态特征,利用LPB1-2型声学测波仪在某海域所测得的海浪数据对近岸浪特征要素进行统计分析,利用最大"熵"原理推导出了波高的最大"熵"分布,研究了状态参量对波高分布和波高"熵"的影响。研究表明,该海域的波主要以波高0.3~0.7 m,周期2.5~5.5 s的波为主,表示离散程度的特征值平均差为0.267,日极差值主要在0.1~0.4 m区间内,最大值为1.0 m,分布较为集中,波高分布近似为正态分布。     

自然海况下波浪特性的初步研究

通过分析大量的外海浮标观测资料 ,发现波龄和无因次波高之间存在非常好的相关性 ,自然海况下的波浪场满足 3/ 5指数律 ,其波龄可达到几十 ,远远超过风浪波龄的上限 1 .4,说明波浪组成波之间波 -波共振非线性相互作用是波浪内部结构的主要调节机制 ,使波高和周期之间具有很好的相关性。     

SBF1—1型近海遥测波浪仪简介

应用浮标测量海洋波浪是近十几年来国外广泛采用的测波手段之一。SBF1—1型近海遥测波浪仪即是一种定点的具有弹性系留系统的遥测波浪浮标。它主要适用于沿海台站、港口码头及海上石油平台等处测量波浪的波高和周期。浮标通过天线连续发射波浪信号,岸站接收系统可连续或定时接收记录。     

WAVEWATCH Ⅲ第三代海浪数值模式在中国东海的应用和改进

利用东海的浮标观测数据,比较了WAVEWATCHⅢ第三代海浪数值模式的ST2、ST4和ST6三种源函数方案在东海的适用性。结果表明,三种源函数方案在波高小于3 m中低风速情形下,模拟波高与观测波高符合的很好,而在波高大于3 m的高风速情形下,模拟波高偏大。在此基础上,提出了以波龄和波陡为参数的海面粗糙度参数化公式,以此来计算拖曳系数。该方案可以自动满足拖曳系数在临界风速达到饱和的观测事实,将上述拖曳系数计算方案应用于最新的ST6源函数方案,在保持中低风速时的模拟精度的同时,可有效地改善高风速时模拟波高偏大问题,而且可使模拟周期与浮标观测结果更为一致。     

HAB—2型测波仪观测方法的探讨

本文介绍的主要内容是:对HAB-2型测波仪观测方法的探讨。推导了测波仪波高订正系数表达式及波高计算公式。阐述了三种波高的观测计算方法。     

The difference between the joint probability distributions of apparent wave heights and periods and individual wave heights and periods

The joint distribution of wave heights and periods of individual waves is usually approximated by the joint distribution of apparent wave heights and periods. However there is difference between them. This difference is addressed and the theoretical joint distributions of apparent wave heights and periods due to Longuet-Higgins and Sun are modified to give more reasonable representations of the joint distribution of wave heights and periods of individual waves. The modification has overcome an inherent drawback of these joint PDFs that the mean wave period is infinite. A comparison is made between the modified formulae and the field data of Goda, which shows that the new formulae consist with the measurement better than their original counterparts.     

Simultaneous Ocean Wave Measurements by the Jason and Topex Satellites,with Buoy and Model Comparisons Special Issue: Jason-1 Calibration/Validation

The verification phase of the Jason-1 satellite altimeter mission presents a unique opportunity for comparing near-simultaneous, independent satellite measurements. Here we examine simultaneous significant wave height measurements by the Jason-1 and TOPEX/Poseidon altimeters. These data are also compared with in situ measurements from deep-ocean buoys and with predicted wave heights from the Wave Watch III operational model. The rms difference between Jason and TOPEX wave heights is 28 cm, and this can be lowered by half through improved outlier editing and filtering of high-frequency noise. Noise is slightly larger in the Jason dataset, exceeding TOPEX by about 7 cm rms at frequencies above 0.05 Hz, which is the frequency at which the coherence between TOPEX and Jason measurements drops to zero. Jason wave heights are more prone to outliers, especially during periods of moderate to high backscatter. Buoy comparisons confirm previous reports that TOPEX wave heights are roughly 5% smaller than buoy measurements for waves between 2 and 5 m; Jason heights in general are 3% smaller than TOPEX. Spurious dips in the TOPEX density function for 3- and 6-m waves, a problem that has existed since the beginning of the mission, can be solved by waveform retracking.     

Simultaneous Ocean Wave Measurements by the Jason and Topex Satellites, with Buoy and Model Comparisons

The verification phase of the Jason-1 satellite altimeter mission presents a unique opportunity for comparing near-simultaneous, independent satellite measurements. Here we examine simultaneous significant wave height measurements by the Jason-1 and TOPEX/Poseidon altimeters. These data are also compared with in situ measurements from deep-ocean buoys and with predicted wave heights from the Wave Watch III operational model. The rms difference between Jason and TOPEX wave heights is 28 cm, and this can be lowered by half through improved outlier editing and filtering of high-frequency noise. Noise is slightly larger in the Jason dataset, exceeding TOPEX by about 7 cm rms at frequencies above 0.05 Hz, which is the frequency at which the coherence between TOPEX and Jason measurements drops to zero. Jason wave heights are more prone to outliers, especially during periods of moderate to high backscatter. Buoy comparisons confirm previous reports that TOPEX wave heights are roughly 5% smaller than buoy measurements for waves between 2 and 5 m; Jason heights in general are 3% smaller than TOPEX. Spurious dips in the TOPEX density function for 3- and 6-m waves, a problem that has existed since the beginning of the mission, can be solved by waveform retracking.     

响水近岸海域波浪特性研究

基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料，分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性，研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性，并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10~2.80 m之间，年平均值为0.56 m；最大波高的变化幅度在0.15~5.58 m之间，年平均值为0.93 m；平均波周期的变化范围为1.91~9.02 s，年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节，波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言，通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面，本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%，且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值，其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右，高频谱峰则出现在0.15~0.20 Hz之间，分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系，发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性，但受波浪浅水变形影响，各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。     

Statistical properties of successive wave heights and successive wave periods

Two successive wave heights are modeled by a Gaussian copula, which is referred to as the Nataf model. Results with two initial distributions for the transformation are presented, the Næss model [Næss A. On the distribution of crest to trough wave heights. Ocean Engineering (1985);12(3):221–34] and a two-parameter Weibull distribution, where the latter is in best agreement with data. The results are compared with existing models. The Nataf model has also been used for modeling three successive wave heights.Results show that the Nataf transformation of three successive wave heights can be approximated by a first order autoregressive model. This means that the distribution of the wave height given the previous wave height is independent of the wave heights prior to the previous wave height. Thus, the joint distribution of three successive wave heights can be obtained by combining conditional bivariate distributions. The simulation of successive wave heights can be done directly without simulating the time series of the complete surface elevation.Successive wave periods with corresponding wave heights exceeding a certain threshold have also been studied. Results show that the distribution for successive wave periods when the corresponding wave heights exceed the root-mean-square value of the wave heights, can be approximated by a multivariate Gaussian distribution.The theoretical distributions are compared with observed wave data obtained from field measurements in the central North Sea and in the Japan Sea, with laboratory data and numerical simulations.     

Estimation of extreme wave heights using GEOSAT measurements

Satellite technology has yielded a large database of global ocean wave heights which may be used for engineering applications. However, the sampling protocol used by the satellite leads to some difficulties in making use of these data for practical applications. These difficulties and techniques to estimate extreme wave heights using satellite measurements are discussed. Significant wave heights for a 50-year return period are estimated using GEOSAT measurements for several regions around North America. Techniques described here may be used for estimation of wave heights associated with any specified return interval in regions where buoy data are not readily available.     

New Zealand wave climate from satellite observations

Wave data derived from radar altimeters carried on four satellite missions are combined into a wave climatology for New Zealand waters. These data provide extensive observations of wave conditions around New Zealand, where the paucity of measurements has previously hindered definition of the wave climate. The data span the period 1985 to the present with the exception of a 2‐year gap in 1989–91. The spatial distribution of the long‐term mean of significant wave heights (SWH) indicates a strong latitudinal variation in the south‐west Pacific, with values of over 4 m at latitudes of 50–60°S and under 2.5 m towards the tropics. The shadowing of New Zealand is quite marked; a result of the dominant contribution of south‐westerly wave events. The annual range of the mean SWH also varies over the region; within 0.6 m in the north and 1.3 m in the south. A principal component analysis of the monthly anomalies in mean SWH identifies spatial patterns of variation. Some components vary with the local wind more than others suggesting that some anomalies are associated with wind sea and some with swell. Some patterns also appear to vary with the Southern Oscillation Index and can be related to the wind anomalies associated with El Nino events. Frequency distributions of SWH are also determined, and it is noted that in the north of the region the spatial pattern of the high waves differs considerably from the means.     

Nearshore directional wave measurements by surface-following buoy and acoustic Doppler current profiler

Directional energy spectra of nearshore surface waves were measured for a 3-year period (2004–2007) at a site with mean depth 14 m and mean tidal range 2.1 m. Triaxys surface-following wave buoys reported hourly directional wave energy spectra and wave parameters near the offshore end of the Savannah River Entrance Channel, Georgia, USA. An acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) was located beside the wave buoy for 3 months. Directional and non-directional surface wave energy spectra and the corresponding bulk wave parameters (height, period, and direction) are compared for the two systems. Most parameters derived from the spectra agree closely; the most significant differences were found at the upper and lower frequency measurement limits, where signal-to-noise ratios were lower. The wave buoy consistently reports a small amount of energy below 0.05 Hz that does not appear in the ADCP-derived spectra and does not appear to be related to the mooring system. This leads to larger mean and peak periods reported by the buoy. All directional spectra were computed using the Maximum Entropy Method for both instruments, but the buoy, with spectra derived from six independent time series, provides lower directional resolving power than the ADCP, which utilizes twelve time series. Both systems gave similar results defining mean and peak wave directions, with the primary difference being that the ADCP indicates energy to be more tightly concentrated around the peak direction.     

Statistics of Wind and Waves off Tsuyazaki, Fukuoka, in the Eastern Tsushima Strait

The variability of the sea surface wind and wind waves in the coastal area of the Eastern Tsushima Strait was investigated based on the hourly data from 1990 to 1997 obtained at a station 2 km off Tsuyazaki, Fukuoka. The annual mean wind speed was 4.84 m s⁻¹, with strong northwesterly monsoon in winter and weak southwesterly wind in summer. Significant wave heights and wave periods showed similar sinusoidal seasonal cycles around their annual means of 0.608 m and 4.77 s, respectively. The seasonal variability relative to the annual mean is maximum for wave heights, medium for wind speeds, and minimum for wave periods. Significant wave heights off Tsuyazaki turned out to be bounded by a criterion, which is proportional to the square of the significant wave period corresponding to a constant steepness, irrespective of the season or the wind speed. For terms shorter than a month, the significant wave height and the wave period were found to have the same spectral form as the inshore wind velocity: white for frequencies less than 0.2 day⁻¹ and proportional to the frequency to the −5/3 power for higher frequencies, where the latter corresponds to the inertial subrange of turbulence. The spectral levels of wave heights and wave periods in that inertial range were also correlated with those of the inshore wind velocity, though the scatter was large. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.