机载海洋波谱仪回波数据处理方法研究

海洋波谱仪机载飞行试验通过对星载天线进行宽波束等效,能够测量海面后向散射系数,进而反演波浪谱及波浪参数。利用该系统在黄海中部进行飞行试验,对小入射角下波浪测量数据进行处理和分析,采用后向投影积分校正载机运动和天线旋转引起的越距离单元徙动,采用交叉谱方法降低斑点噪声,实现小海况下波浪谱反演,结果表明海洋波谱仪测量得到的波浪谱、有效波高、主波长、主波向等波浪参数与浮标、卫星同步测量吻合较好。     

辽东湾的波谱分析

本文利用辽东湾海上实测波浪资料,进行了谱分析,从而了解到辽东湾的波浪性质,在分析的基础上,通过谱形拟合,找出了谱公式中的三个参数与谱矩、最大值及极值频率的关系。     

高阶谱方法建立三维畸形波聚焦模拟模型

三维波浪方向聚焦是畸形波形成机理之一.为了模拟和分析这一现象,在势流理论内基于改进的高阶谱(HOS)方法,给出了时空聚焦方式生成畸形波的三维波浪模型.利用满足周期性边界条件的具有不同频率、不同传播方向的各独立组成波,分隔了计算域内的能量;使各组成波采用等振幅能量分布的形式,聚焦模拟了实验尺度畸形波;把高阶谱方法拓展到大尺度的开敞海域,考虑波浪方向分布的影响,聚焦模拟了大尺度畸形波的发展和形成过程.     

一种计算有限水深波能功率的新方法

海洋波浪能平均功率的准确计算是波浪能开发和利用的基础。实践中，波浪能转换装置一般安装在有限水深区域。对于随机波，只有当详尽的波浪谱已知的时候，有限水深区的波能功率才能被准确计算出来。由于种种原因，实践中波浪的实测数据大多以散点图或有义波高和统计波周期的形式给出，而波浪谱信息有时则很难获得。基于这种情况，传统上人们利用无限水深条件下的相关公式来估算有限水深区域的波能功率，但这种做法会造成较大的误差。本研究显示，对于50 m水深的理论波谱JONSWAP谱来说该误差高达14.6%。为了提高波能功率计算的准确性，本文提出了一种基于能量频率的一阶和二阶近似算法，可以在未知波浪谱的情况下较为准确地计算不同水深时的波能功率。针对两种理论波浪谱的计算结果表明，本方法在计算有限带宽内的波能功率时计算误差低于2.8%。     

可控深水破碎波的实验室生成方法研究

实验室一般采用波浪聚焦方法生成深水破碎波,通过各组分波浪的波幅叠加生成一个波高显著增大的大波,使其波陡超过极限波陡发生破碎。利用该方法生成深水破碎波浪的破碎次数通常并不唯一,导致波浪破碎后的流场特征不明显;造波参数不易于选取导致研究工况的设置难度大,直接影响深水破碎精细化实验的效果和效率。本文采用聚焦波理论计算波面,并利用上跨零点法定义的波高和波长计算理论波陡,结合物理模型实验统计波浪沿程破碎次数与剧烈程度,研究以JONSWAP谱为造波输入谱型时,聚焦波幅、谱峰频率、频宽等造波输入参数对于波浪破碎情况的影响,从而建立深水波浪破碎次数与造波输入参数之间的近似定量关系,为实验造波参数的选取提供参考,提高实验效率。     

波浪在浅水区的变形及破碎

利用波作用的守恒原理分析了波浪及波浪谱在水流作用下的变形;讨论了由于波的存在引起的水流速度垂线分布的变化;研究了不规则波的破碎准则;提出了浅滩上波浪谱变形及破碎的新方法以及计算破后波的VOF方法;最后讨论了方向谱在水流中的变形问题.     

现场ηUV、PUV和UV波浪方向谱估计方法及比较

波浪方向谱的现场观测和谱估计方法是海洋动力研究的重要基础课题之一。本文依据不规则线性波理论，推导了ηＵＶ、ＰＵＶ和ＵＶ方法方向谱计算式，并利用η和ＰＵＶ实测数据进行了方向谱估计，同时比较了各种模式优劣，为现场波浪观测提供依据。     

波浪谱在斜向流作用下的折射

本文根据二波向线间波浪作用通量守恒的原则,提出了在斜向流作用下,波浪频谱折射的分析方法和其计算程序WCINDS1,计算表明,谱分析法得出的结果较规则波分析法更为合理,在斜向流作用下频率各异的组成波,折射后的方向是不同的,此时可以谱峰频的方向角作为整个谱平均方向角的代表值.     

不规则波对浪溅区结构物冲击作用的试验研究——频域分析

对不规则波对浪溅区结构物的冲击作用实验结果进行了谱分析研究。给出了不同试验组次的结构物底面所受波浪冲击压力的谱分析结果，得到了结构物底面所受波浪冲击压力的谱矩m0沿结构物底面的分布规律，讨论了入射波波要素和结构物底面距静水面的相对高度s/H1/3对作用于结构物底面的冲击压力谱矩m0,avg的影响，给出了平均冲击压力谱矩m0,svg.与统计分析的压力特征值Pc的关系。     

波浪反射系数谱的特征分析

应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.     

水下平板与波浪相互作用完全非线性数值模拟(英文)

利用完全非线性数值波浪水槽技术研究水下平板与波浪的相互作用。假定水下平板厚度极薄、刚性,位于有限水深并且非常接近自由水面。应用四阶龙格库塔方法追踪每一时刻的波面形状,采用阻尼层来吸收反射波以保证算法的稳定性,同时引入平滑和重组的方法抑制自由表面控制点的较高梯度。通过对波浪与浮动圆柱相互作用的数值模拟证实了数值波浪水槽方法的有效性,计算结果与线性理论吻合良好。在波浪数值水槽方法中引入造波板模拟波浪产生并与水下平板发生相互作用,应用傅立叶解析方法对波面变形、波浪力作了分析。结果表明在板非常接近自由水面的情况下会表现出现很强的非线性,揭示了线性理论的局限性。     

About applying linear structural method on ocean data: Adjustment of satellite wave data

Linear structural relations express the linear relationship between random variables when each of the variables under consideration is subjected to inherent variability and measurement error. The linear structural method is more general than the classical regression, which is often used incorrectly in calibration of altimeter data or validation of wave model results. In this work the linear structural method is elaborated and applied for the adjustment of TOPEX/Poseidon (T/P) data by means of in situ measured wave data in the Aegean Sea. In addition, a comparison of the buoy and T/P data with the WAM wave model predictions is performed revealing an underestimation trend of the model.     

波浪沿斜面传播过程的数值模拟

精确模拟非线性波沿斜面传播过程非常困难,为此论文从势函数的边界积分方程出发,建立了一种时域内二维波浪模拟的数值模型,主要用来模拟完全非线性波浪的传播变形过程。论文的数值模型使用高阶二维边界元方法,采用可调节时间步长的基于二阶显式泰勒展开的混合欧拉-拉格郎日时间步进来求解带自由表面的线性或完全非线性波浪传播问题。在计算区域一端造出线性或非线性的周期性波浪,另一端采用消除反射波的人工粘性吸收边界。通过与现有理论比较证明了论文数值方法所得结果是准确可靠的。     

Wave force on vertically submerged circular thin plate in shallow water

The paper presented is a solution of shallow water wave force, using small amplitude linear wave theory on two-dimensional vertically submerged circular thin plates under three different configurations: (1) a surface-piercing circular thin plate, (2) a submerged circular thin plate, and (3) a bottom-standing circular thin plate. Finally Morison's equation is used for the determination of wave force which is based on the linear wave theory. The plate is submerged in water near the shore on uniformly sloping bottom. The solution method is confined in a finite domain, which contains both the region of different depth of water and the plate. Laplace's equation and boundary value problems are solved in a finite domain, by the method of separation of variables and the small amplitude linear wave theory. The variation of horizontal force by single particle, total horizontal force and moment with respect to the wave amplitude are obtained at different depth of water and at different wave period. It is observed that the force and moment are converging with the increase of wave period and the gradients of force and moment with respect to the wave amplitude are extremely high for lower wave period.     

Forecast of wave run-up on coastal structure using offshore wave forecast data

In this paper, first we introduce the wave run-up scale which describes the degree of wave run-up based on observed sea conditions near and on a coastal structure. Then, we introduce a simple method which can be used for daily forecast of wave run-up on a coastal structure. The method derives a multiple linear regression equation between wave run-up scale and offshore wind and wave parameters using long-term photographical observation of wave run-up and offshore wave forecasting model results. The derived regression equation then can be used for forecasting the run-up scale using the offshore wave forecasting model results. To test the implementation of the method, wave run-up scales were observed at four breakwaters in the East Coast of Korea for 9 consecutive months in 2008. The data for the first 6 months were used to derive multiple linear regression equations, which were then validated using the run-up scale data for the remaining 3 months and the corresponding offshore wave forecasting model results. A comparison with an engineering formula for wave run-up is also made. It is found that this method can be used for daily forecast and warning of wave run-up on a coastal structure with reasonable accuracy.     

两层流体中多个圆柱浮体波浪力的解析方法

采用解析方法研究了线性入射波作用下两层流体中多个圆柱形淹没浮体的渡浪力特性.首先基于多极子展开方法,建立了散射势函数的解析表达式,并进一步得到浮体散射渡浪力的计算公式,然后利用边界元方法验证了本文的解析解,最后分析了不同参数的变化对双圆柱形浮体结构波浪力的特有影响.     

Probability distribution of random wave forces in weakly nonlinear random waves

Based on the second-order random wave theory, the joint statistical distribution of the horizontal velocity and acceleration is derived using the characteristic function expansion method. From the joint distribution and the Morison equation, the theoretical distributions of drag forces, inertia forces and total random wave forces are determined. The distribution of inertia forces is Gaussian as that derived using the linear wave model, whereas the distributions of drag forces and total random forces deviate slightly from those derived utilizing the linear wave model. It is found that the distribution of wave forces depends solely on the frequency spectrum of sea waves associated with the first order approximation and the second order wave–wave interaction.     

Interaction of linear waves with an array of infinitely long horizontal circular cylinders in a two-layer fluid of infinite depth

The linear water wave scattering and radiation by an array of infinitely long horizontal circular cylinders in a two-layer fluid of infinite depth is investigated by use of the multipole expansion method. The diffracted and radiated potentials are expressed as a linear combination of infinite multipoles placed at the centre of each cylinder with unknown coefficients to be determined by the cylinder boundary conditions. Analytical expressions for wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients, reflection and transmission coefficients and energies are derived. Comparisons are made between the present analytical results and those obtained by the boundary element method, and some examples are presented to illustrate the hydrodynamic behavior of multiple horizontal circular cylinders in a two-layer fluid. It is found that for two submerged circular cylinders the influence of the fluid density ratio on internal-mode wave forces is more appreciable than surface-mode wave forces, and the periodic oscillations of hydrodynamic results occur with the increase of the distance between two cylinders; for four submerged circular cylinders the influence of adding two cylinders on the wave forces of the former cylinders is small in low and high wave frequencies, but the influence is appreciable in intermediate wave frequencies.     

随机波作用下海床动态响应分析

真实的海洋波浪是随机的,而前人对海床的动态响应分析大都是选用线性波或者Stokes波理论,对海床的模拟大都采用Biot拟静力模型,忽略了流体速度及土体位移加速度的影响。联合使用Longuet-Higgins随机波模型(采用Jonswap谱)以及动力u-p形式的海床响应计算模型,使用COMSOL Multiphysics多场耦合软件的PDE模块输入方程进行有限元计算,得到随机波作用下整体海床动态响应结果。将随机波结果与一阶Stokes波和椭圆余弦波结果进行对比,并对渗透系数和饱和度进行参数分析,研究表明渗透系数和饱和度对于随机波作用下海床动态响应影响显著。     

An Oscillating Wave Energy Converter with Nonlinear Snap-Through Power-Take-Off Systems in Regular Waves

Floating oscillating bodies constitute a large class of wave energy converters, especially for offshore deployment. Usually the Power-Take-Off (PTO) system is a directly linear electric generator or a hydraulic motor that drives an electric generator. The PTO system is simplified as a linear spring and a linear damper. However the conversion is less powerful with wave periods off resonance. Thus, a nonlinear snap-through mechanism with two symmetrically oblique springs and a linear damper is applied in the PTO system. The nonlinear snap-through mechanism is characteristics of negative stiffness and double-well potential. An important nonlinear parameter is defined as the ratio of half of the horizontal distance between the two springs to the original length of both springs. Time domain method is applied to the dynamics of wave energy converter in regular waves. And the state space model is used to replace the convolution terms in the time domain equation. The results show that the energy harvested by the nonlinear PTO system is larger than that by linear system for low frequency input. While the power captured by nonlinear converters is slightly smaller than that by linear converters for high frequency input. The wave amplitude, damping coefficient of PTO systems and the nonlinear parameter affect power capture performance of nonlinear converters. The oscillation of nonlinear wave energy converters may be local or periodically inter well for certain values of the incident wave frequency and the nonlinear parameter , which is different from linear converters characteristics of sinusoidal response in regular waves.