长江河口岸滩侵蚀演变模式

长江河口地区由于流域带来的泥沙沉降堆积,形成了巨大的长江三角洲平原和水下三角洲。近年来,由于水土保持和流域建水库使得入海泥沙迅速减少,造成长江河口区岸滩侵蚀态势逐渐加重。根据多年海图资料得到的岸滩剖面变化,长江河口区岸滩侵蚀的演变模式按岸滩侵蚀剖面形态特征分为平直型、宽陡型和尖陡型;按剖面的变化特征可分为平行后退型、下凹变上凸型和宽陡变尖陡型。     

海南岛南渡江三角洲北部沿岸的泥沙转运和岸滩运动

南渡江三角洲海岸可分为东部废弃侵蚀岸，北部泥沙转运岸西部淤涨堆积岸等三个岸段，北部岸段为了边接东、西部岸段，存在大规模的，有节奏的沿岸泥沙向西和向岸转运及其相应的岸滩运动现象，涨沙主要来自南渡江干流河口及其以东的废弃侵蚀岸。文中还结合对北部岸河口和沿岸泥沙转运规律的分析，讨论了波浪优势型河口三角洲特征及其堡岛海岸的形态、动态和泥沙来源以及人类活动对该岸段的影响等问题。     

闽粤交界的大埕湾岸滩稳定分析及岸滩防护对策

本文在实地调查的基础上，通过对大埕湾沿岸输沙率变化和岸线形态的分析，综合探讨了该海湾的泥沙来源，沿岸泥沙迁移特征，岸滩冲淤动态以及海岸的演变趋势．结果表明：该湾沿岸带形成了一股朝W向迁移的波生泥沙流，泥沙主要来自诏安湾和宫口湾；该湾海岸除东部沙坝泻湖岸段略有淤伸外，其余岸段均处于侵蚀状态：随着泥沙来源的减少，海岸内凹蚀退是今后岸线调整的自然过程．文中还对大埕湾岸滩的防侵蚀提出了相应的对策建议。     

海南岛南渡江三角洲北部沿岸的泥沙转运和岸滩运动

南渡江三角洲海岸可分为东部废弃侵蚀岸、北部泥沙转运岸和西部淤涨堆积岸等三个岸段。北部岸段为了连接东、西部岸段，存在大规模的、有节奏的沿岸泥沙向西和向岸转运及其相应的岸滩运动现象，泥沙主要来自南渡江干流河口及其以东的废弃侵蚀岸。文中还结合对北部岸段河口和沿岸泥沙转运现律的分析，讨论了波浪优势型河口三角洲特征及其堡岛海岸的形态、动态和泥沙来源以及人类活动对该岸段的影响等问题。     

人工岛对沙质海岸动力泥沙环境及岸滩冲淤演变的影响研究

基于历史海图、历史时期卫星遥感影像、2019年实测水下地形和潮流、波浪数值模拟成果,研究该海域岸滩的发育演变背景、海床和岸线自然冲淤动态、动力泥沙环境及岸滩冲淤动力机制。采用LITLINE岸线演变数学模型,模拟计算了不同离岸距离和不同平面形态人工岛布置型式对近岸岸线变形的影响,岸滩泥沙动力机制和岸滩演变趋势表明,人工岛实施后近岸最大潮流流速小于近岸泥沙起动流速,不具备起动近岸岸滩泥沙的基本条件; SSE向波浪作用时,人工岛西北侧波高明显减弱,波向西偏; S向波浪作用时,人工岛北侧波高明显减弱; SSW向波浪作用时,人工岛东北侧波高明显减弱,波浪传播方向东偏;波浪场改变后人工岛掩护区东西两侧岸滩附近泥沙分别具有向东和向西运移至人工岛掩护区的趋势,形成掩护区的淤积和东西两侧岸线冲刷。     

琼州海峡南岸海岸动力地貌研究

岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南     

琼州海峡南岸海岸动力地貌研究

岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南岸海岸地貌演变与盛行的NE和NNE向风浪有密切关系,岸滩的演变过程主要受制于这两个方向的风浪及其引起的泥沙沿岸运移。     

广利港海域悬沙分布及黄河口泥沙扩散对其影响

基于遥感影像资料和实测水文泥沙资料,对广利河口海域悬沙分布特征和黄河口入海泥沙扩散进行了分析研究.结果得出,在一般天气情况下,广利港海域工程海域含沙量比较低(＜0.1 kg/m3),黄河口泥沙向南直接扩散距离为10～20 km,对工程区无直接影响,但是在大风天气下,广利河口附近海域含沙量会增高至0.5 kg/m3以上,黄河口入海泥沙扩散向南可达30～40 km,最远可达小清河口,对工程区则有一定的影响;从广利港海域含沙量、底质特征、冲淤性质上来看,黄河口泥沙扩散对工程区是有限的,造成航道和港池淤积的主要泥沙来源为风浪和潮流作用下就地泥沙的搬运输移;黄河入海泥沙呈减小趋势,黄河改由“清8断面”入海,黄河入海泥沙浑水主轴线与广利港的距离增加,对工程区的影响趋于减小.     

南渡江三角洲海岸泥沙纵向运移与岸滩演变的响应

南渡三角洲沿岸在盛行ＮＮＥ向波浪等动力条件的作用下,泥沙产生纵向运移,岸滩遭受侵蚀或堆积,岸滩演变剧烈。本文利用基于网格的波注折射绕射模型,分析南渡江三角洲海岸波浪动力过程、破波带波能与辐射应力分布及其引起的沿岸泥沙纵向运称。浴海岸动力学地貌的角度,通过三角洲沿岸波浪动力特征、泥沙运动的分析,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变。     

黄河入海径流量与河口沉积物的侵蚀关系

河口地区海水环境变化复杂,岸滩侵蚀严重,入海径流对侵蚀的影响不可忽视.从入海径流量与河口盐度变化的关系入手,主要阐述了海水盐度变化对河口泥沙沉降及泥沙沉降后固结的影响,进而讨论盐度变化对河口沉积物侵蚀的影响,其中,着重对黄河口地区入海径流量与河口沉积物侵蚀的关系进行了探讨;并且概述了黄河口沉积物侵蚀相关的研究情况,指出在黄河三角洲等河口岸滩侵蚀的研究中,可以以盐度等为媒介,把入海径流与沉积物本身联系起来,综合考虑分析岸滩侵蚀机理.     

风暴潮前后莱州湾西岸滩演化特征研究

Multiple surveys were conducted before and after storm surge at four beach sections,Sediment samples were analyzed and numerically simulated for understanding the characteristicsof becach reaction to storm surge and morphological evolution ,The results show that the sediment sources in this area do not increase in amount;the beach is basically stable in normal weather.While in gale weather,sediment from Yellow River and the eroded matters from the bank becomes a part of the sediment sources.The northem beach of Xiaoqing estuary is eroded seriously, while the southern beach is overall stable,Thw tidal creeks changed from the northern beach are transported greatly sea-ward and the inshore sediment becomes sandy,while that of the southem beach becomes silty,The sand transporting capability is almost 100 times of that in nomal weather. Human activities and big storm surges are the main reasons for the beach evolution.     

海滩风暴效应若干问题思考与我国研究前景

热带风暴是一种频发的灾害性事件,其诱发的大浪及其伴生的风暴潮会在短时间内搬运大量沉积物,对海岸地貌、海底地形和海洋沉积的影响极为严重.总结了未来风暴变化趋势和风暴动力方面的研究进展,概述了近几十年来海滩风暴效应领域几个重要方向的进展,内容包括岸滩风暴灾害调查和研究、海滩风暴效应差异性研究、风暴作用下的泥沙运动和岸滩风暴响应沉积学特征等方面.从国内外的研究现状来看,我国在风暴作用下泥沙运动实测与定量分析、多因素耦合控制下海滩风暴效应差异和海滩风暴地貌过程等方面存在着明显的不足.作为我国海岸科学研究中必需又薄弱的环节,今后该领域的研究应该在强化野外现场实验和监测的基础上,深入探讨极端条件下的海滩过程,发展海滩风暴响应预测模型,并积极开展海滩风暴潮防护技术开发与应用.     

Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.     

基于高频观测数据的徐闻青安湾海滩对台风“贝碧嘉”的响应研究

风暴是造成海滩剧烈变化的重要因子。由于观测环境的恶劣，目前极少有风暴过程中海滩响应的现场高频观测工作。本研究在2018年台风“贝碧嘉”期间对徐闻青安湾海滩开展了历时6天半的高频观测，获得了全时水动力要素和164组逐时海滩滩面高程变化数据。通过分析表明:(1)青安湾海域风暴增水及波浪受控于海南岛?雷州半岛特有的地形地貌和台风“贝碧嘉”的多变路径，增水稳定在0.38～0.5 m之间，而波高先由0.78 m衰减至0.43 m，再增加至0.56 m；(2)海滩剖面地形变化总体表现为滩肩侵蚀，形成水下沙坝，滩肩响应过程分为快速向下侵蚀、缓慢侵蚀至最大值、振荡回淤恢复3个阶段，台风期间滩肩振荡恢复幅度可达最大侵蚀深度的1/4；(3)海滩的风暴响应过程主要由4个模态耦合而成:第一模态体现大潮滩肩侵蚀生成水下沙坝过程；第二模态体现风暴滩肩侵蚀，补偿大潮滩肩侵蚀位置和进一步促进沙坝形成过程；第三模态揭示了波浪二次破碎位置的上冲流和离岸底流使泥沙发生双向输移过程；第四模态表明台风大浪使得碎波带内泥沙大量悬浮，在沿岸流和离岸流作用下部分悬沙进入深水区，可能造成海滩泥沙的永久亏损。     

Response of sediment dynamics in the York River Estuary,USA to tropical cyclone Isabel of 2003

Tropical Cyclone Isabel of 2003 generated large storm surge, strong waves, and subsequent river flooding in the York River Estuary, USA during its passage across the Chesapeake Bay region. A 3D model was used to investigate the changes of sediment concentration, sediment flux, and the recovery time of the York River Estuary to its naturally evolved condition without the storm. The results showed that two sediment concentration peaks appeared during the storm event. The first one was induced by the large upstream flow and waves during the storm surge rising period, and the later one was caused by the strong downstream flow during the descent of the storm surge. The advection, which was induced by the barotropic gradient, dominated the sediment flux during the storm event. The sediment fluxes increased by a factor of 100 during the rise and descent of the storm surge. A large amount of sediment that was transported into the estuary and eroded from the seabed during the rising of the storm surge was quickly transported out of the estuary during the descent of the storm surge. Waves played a key role in stirring the seabed and increasing the sediment concentration during the storm. Subsequent high freshwater inflow changed the sediment loading and hydrodynamics in the estuary, and thus, influenced the estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) dynamics profoundly. The ETM moved downstream with the river flooding initially and returned upstream with the waning of river flooding and the re-establishment of gravitational circulation. The effect of river flooding on sediment concentration varied spatially and depended on the changes of ETM locations and vertical mixing. The model results suggest that a large amount of sediment was transported out of the estuary during the storm event and the subsequent river flooding had a larger impact on recovery time of the estuary.     

风暴潮、大潮对广西涠洲岛西南沙滩侵蚀的影响分析

本文统计分析了广西涠洲岛沿海气候、潮汐和风暴潮等历史资料,利用耿贝尔方法推算了涠洲岛多年一遇年极值高潮位,并估算了其漫滩范围分布,指出近几年高潮位出现的频次和极值均越来越高是涠洲岛西南部沙滩侵蚀愈加严重的重要原因,最后结合风暴潮-海浪耦合数值模拟了研究区域内"0312"号台风风暴潮漫滩的情况,分析了风暴潮和大潮对涠洲岛西南部沙滩侵蚀的影响,对当地岸滩修复和防护具有一定的指导意义。     

河北省沿海风暴潮特征及成因分析

以秦皇岛、京唐港、曹妃甸、黄骅4个验潮站的实测潮位和逐时风的数据为基础,以2013年河北省政府发布的风暴潮四色警戒潮位值为标准,统计了2008-2017年10 a河北省沿海的风暴潮过程,从警报级别、区域分布、时间分布、天气系统、经济损失5个方面分析河北省沿海风暴潮特征,并从地形、天文潮与天气系统配合、海平面上升、全球变暖引发的气候异常4个方面分析了影响河北省沿海风暴潮的成因,分析得出:受天气系统的影响,7-10月是河北省风暴潮高发时段,且由于河北省岸线分布特点,沧州市沿海受到风暴潮影响的次数最多,唐山和秦皇岛次之,沧州和唐山地区的风暴潮过程多由东北向大风引起,而秦皇岛地区的风暴潮过程多由东南向风引起。     

山东半岛东部滨海沙滩对台风“米雷”的地貌响应

通过对台风“米雷”登陆前后山东半岛东部8个滨海沙滩地形地貌的现场调查以及一年后的重复调查对比分析了沙滩地貌形态的变化,并依据台风期间的风要素计算和评估了台风期间沙滩的沿岸输沙和横向输沙趋势,探讨了在热带风暴发生频次较低的地区沙滩的风暴响应模式和海岸恢复规律。研究结果表明,台风造成横向和纵向输沙量的增加和输沙方向的逆转是造成沙滩形态改变的主要因素,而在米雷登陆前的阶段横向和纵向输沙作用最为强烈。研究区内沙滩的风暴响应模式主要表现为侵蚀陡坎的形成和滩肩或滩面的侵蚀后退。与其他台风频发的区域不同,在研究区台风是一个偶然的强动力事件,因此台风特征对沙滩的风暴响应的作用更加明显。而沙滩剖面形态的作用,仅仅在耗散型沙滩上有所体现。此外,沙滩的走向是控制风暴作用强度的主要因素,并且与沙滩风后恢复密切相关。     

Landward limit of wind setup on beaches

Open coast storm surge water levels consist of a wind shear forcing component generally referred to as wind setup; a wave setup component caused by wind-induced waves transferring momentum to the water column; an atmospheric pressure head component due to the atmospheric pressure deficit over the spatial extent of the storm system; a Coriolis-forced component due to effects of the rotation of the earth acting on the wind-driven alongshore current at the coast; and, if astronomical tides are present, an astronomical tide component. Astronomical tide is considered to be predictable and, therefore, not a meteorological driven component of storm surge although there may be interaction between the tide and meteorological driven water levels. Typically the most important component of storm surge on the US East Coast and Gulf of Mexico shorelines is the wind setup component. The importance of inland flooding due to the wind setup component of storm surge is considered herein with special reference to the effect of subaerial slope on inland flooding where three different linear slopes are considered and storm surge is calculated for the region above still water level, using an analytic solution. The present study findings show that the inland storm surge from the wind setup component can be of considerable importance and lead to significantly higher storm surges than found for storm surge at the still water level intersection of the beach/land. It is shown that mild slopes can lead to very high water levels at the land–water interface (i.e. above the still water level intersection of the beach).     

涠洲岛西南部海域造礁石珊瑚的群落结构特征分析

采用2019年5月14?22日开展的断面法调查数据,分析了涠洲岛西南部海域的造礁石珊瑚群落结构特征。结果表明:涠洲岛西南部海域造礁石珊瑚共有9科38种,优势种为滨珊瑚(Porites sp.)、秘密角蜂巢珊瑚(Favites abdita)、斯氏角孔珊瑚(Goniopora stutchburyi)等团块状珊瑚。活造礁石珊瑚覆盖率为5.20%～31.20%,平均值为16.66%,远离海岸或靠近海岸但水较深的站位覆盖率较高。石珊瑚补充量较低、病害少、死亡率较低。造礁石珊瑚群落的物种多样性、优势度、均匀度互相呈显著正相关关系(p<0.05)。靠近岩壁的站位,水较深且船舶通行和游客潜水等影响较少,活造礁石珊瑚覆盖率和多样性程度均较高。受侵蚀海岸悬浮泥沙和潜水旅游影响较大的砂质岸段站位,活造礁石珊瑚覆盖率最低、优势种的优势度最高、多样性程度相对较低。人为活动、西南季风、风暴潮、海岸侵蚀悬沙、极端气候是影响涠洲岛西南部海域造礁石珊瑚礁生态系统的主要因素。