新型直立式透空堤消浪性能数值研究

为使防波堤同时具有良好的掩护效果和水体交换能力,提出了两种带有透浪通道的新型直立式防波堤。基于Fluent求解器建立了三维数值波浪水槽,通过与试验结果对比,验证了该数值水槽求解波浪与透空堤作用具有较高的精度。对两种防波堤在规则波作用下的透浪特性进行了研究,结果表明:透射系数K_t与透空率呈正线性相关,且可通过调整透浪通道间距,使相同透空率下K_t降低20%～30%。对同一结构,K_t随相对波长的增大而显著增大,但受相对波高的影响较小。在透空率大于0.16后,异型沉箱防波堤的消浪性能明显优于错位沉箱。基于数值计算结果,给出了以上两种透空堤波浪透射系数的经验公式。     

Water surface resonance in the L-shaped channel of seawater exchange breakwater

The resonance period of the L-shaped channel in the caisson is predicted analytically for the seawater exchange breakwater of “Applicability Study of the Seawater Exchange Breakwater (1). Korea Ministry of Maritime Affairs and Fisheries (in Korean) (1999a)”. Hydraulic experiments are conducted for a composite breakwater with a rear reservoir that is one of the seawater exchange breakwaters developed by them. For regular waves, the water surface elevation in the channel and the flow rate through the breakwater are measured. For irregular waves, the flow rate through the breakwater and the reflection coefficient on the breakwater are measured. The resonant maximum values in both the surface elevation and the flow rate, and the resonant minimum values in the reflection coefficient are all at wave periods slightly longer than analytically predicted ones. The measured resonance period for irregular waves is closer to the predicted one than for regular waves. If the resonance period of the L-shaped channel is fitted to the dominant period of incident waves, there would be high efficiency of seawater exchange between inside and outside the harbor.     

Sediment by-passing across coastal inlets by natural means

The problem of shoals and sand spits at harbour and river mouths is ubiquitous. Because of the pulsative nature of littoral drift no adequate solution has been found for this problem. If one could be found utilising the natural swell energy at the site it could save billions of dollars annually in dredging costs. One solution worthy of consideration and further research is to reflect the persistent waves obliquely across the entrance. These reflected waves interact with the incident component to form a short-crested wave system that suspends sediment and aids its transmission downcoast. Tests with varying lengths of reflecting wall have shown the effectiveness of this concept. Further research is indicated to overcome subsidiary problems such as navigability.     

Wave Propagation in A Converging Channel of Arbitrary Configuration

A numerical solution was derived to determine wave field in a converging channel bounded by rubble-mound jetties. The solution was achieved by applying boundary element method. The model was applied to analyze the effect of channel convergence, the cross-section of the jetties and their physical and damping properties on wave field in the channel. The study reveals numerous non-intuitive results specific for jetted and convergent channels. The analysis shows that wave reflection is usually low and is of secondary practical importance. Wave transmission strongly depends on the channel geometry and transmitted waves may be higher than incident waves, despite reflection and damping processes. Moreover, wave transmission depends on physical and damping properties of rubble jetties and the results show that wave transmission may increase with the increasing damping properties of jetties, which is a non-intuitive feature of wave fields in jetted channels. The analysis reveals several novel results of practical importance. It is shown that the rubble-mound jetties should be constructed from the material of high porosity, which ensures low transmission. More attention should be devoted to hydraulic properties of porous materials. It is recommended to use the material of moderate damping properties. The material of high damping properties often increases the wave transmission. It is possible, by a selection of rubble-mound material, to obtain lower transmission level for steep waves than for waves of moderate steepness. A series of laboratory experiments were conducted in the wave flume to verify the theoretical results. The comparisons show that theoretical results are in fairly good agreement with experimental data.     

The prediction of the dynamic and structural motions of a floating-pier system in waves

In this study, a two-dimensional floating pier consists of single rectangular impermeable pontoon with side supporting pile-columns is studied. The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical solution for the linearized problem of incident waves exerting on a floating pier with pile-restrained. All boundary conditions are linearized in the problem, which is incorporated into a scattering problem and radiation problem with unit displacement. The method of separation of variables is used to solve for velocity potentials. For the radiation problem with unit heave and pitch amplitude, the boundary value problem with non-homogeneous boundary condition beneath the structure is solved by using a solution scheme. By calculating the wave force from velocity potential and solving the equation of motion of the floating structure simultaneously a close form theoretical solution for the problem is developed. The finite element method was also applied to calculate the dynamic responses on the supporting piles subjected to the pontoon motions and incident waves.     

Numerical Simulated Study on the Separation of Oblique Incident and Reflected Waves

The Goda's method of separating the frequency spectrum of the unidirectional incident and reflected waves is improved. The proposed method can be applied to the separation of oblique incident and reflected waves and the two wave gauges can be arranged in an arbitrary angle in front of a structure. When the projected distance of the two probes on the incident wave direction is the multiple ofthe half length of the incident waves, the singular problem will emerge by using the method. It is advised that when the projected distance of the two measured points on the incident wave direction is 0.05～0.45 times the wave length of peak frequency wave, good results can be obtained. The simulated resultant waves are separated by the method of numerical simulation and the separated wave spectra are basically corresponding to the target spectra input. The wave trains calculated by the separated incident and reflected wave frequency spectrum are approximated to the input wave trains and the reflected coefficient can be derived correctly. Therefore, the method proposed in this paper is reliable.     

Decomposing damped incident and reflected waves using correlation and quasi-linearization methods

Water waves propagating over a layer of soft mud or submerged aquatic vegetation can drastically attenuate over distances comparable to several wave lengths. The attenuation in the case of mud has been found previously to be reasonably described by an exponential decay. Waves reflect from beaches and any structures that they impact. The reflected waves affect wave heights measured in the field or laboratory wave basins.Decomposition of small amplitude waves into incident and reflected waves is a linear problem. However, the presence of the exponential damping introduces nonlinearity to the decomposition problem and requires an iterative process for solving the problem. Despite considerable experimental research on attenuation of waves over mud, none of the existing methods for decomposition of incident and reflected waves have accounted for this case.Here, the Newton Algorithm was used to account for the effect of wave decay over mud by quasi-linearizing the nonlinear equations. Also, a second method using a new error function and a commercial nonlinear solver was proposed in both time and frequency domain. The performance of both methods has been verified using artificial as well as laboratory data.     

Influence of Approach Channel on Wave Propagation with Varying Incident Angles

- The variation of the amplitude of waves with varying incident angles when waves propagate through a typical approach channel is discussed by a numerical calculation method, the result of which shows that the influence of the channel on wave propagation is obvious. When the wave propagation direction is in coincidence with the channel axis, the wave amplitude ratio will decrease with the increase of propagation distance. When the incident angle is 15 - 30 , there appears an area of larger wave amplitude ratio on the side slope facing the waves, but at the another side, the wave amplitude ratio is generally small, indicating that the channel has a shielding effect. When waves propagate across the channel perpendicularly, the wave amplitude ratio can be calculated with the shallow water coefficient.     

Wave interaction with ‘’-type breakwaters

The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of ‘’-type breakwaters were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves in a wide range of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth were used. Five different depths of immersion (two emerged, one surface flushing and two submerged conditions) of this breakwater were selected. The coefficient of transmission, K_t, and coefficient of reflection, K_r, were obtained from the measurements, and the coefficient of energy loss, K_l was calculated using the law of balance of energy. It was found that the wave transmission is significantly reduced with increased relative water depth, d/L, whether the vertical barrier of the breakwater is surface piercing or submerged, where ‘d’ is the water depth and ‘L’ is the wave length. The wave reflection decreases and energy loss increases with increased wave steepness, especially when the top tip of the vertical barrier of this breakwater is kept at still water level (SWL). For any incident wave climate (moderate or storm waves), the wave transmission consistently decreases and the reflection increases with increased relative depth of immersion, Δ/d from −0.142 to 0.142. K_t values less than 0.3 can be easily obtained for the case of Δ/d=+0.071 and 0.142, where Δ is the height of exposure (+ve) or depth of immersion (−ve) of the top tip of the vertical barrier. This breakwater is capable of dissipating wave energy to an extent of 50–80%. The overall performance of this breakwater was found to be better in the random wave fields than in the regular waves. A comparison of the hydrodynamic performance of ‘’-type and ‘T’-type shows that ‘T’-type breakwater is better than ‘’-type by about 20–30% under identical conditions.     

Numerical Wave Channel with Absorbing Wave-Maker

The numerical wave channel has been developed based on the volume of fluid method (VOF) in conjunction with the Navier-Stokes equations. The absorbing wave-maker boundary on the left side of the channel is presented by prescribing velocity reference to linear wave-maker theory. The principle of which is that the numerical wave-maker is designed to move in a way that generates the required incident wave and cancels out any reflected wave that reach it at the same time. On the right side of the channel, the open boundary is set to permit incident waves to be transmitted freely. The parametric studies have been carried out at a range of ratios of water depth to wave length d/ L from 0.124 to 0.219, with wave height in the front of paddle/water depth ratio (H0 / d) from 0.1 to 0.3. Wave height, wave pressure distribution along the channel and velocity field are obtained for both open boundary condition and reflective boundary condition at the other end of the channel. For a reflective case, it is shown that     

Reflected and transmitted waves in a channel with side porous mattresses

The problem of wave propagation and wave damping in a channel with side porous mattresses of arbitrary shape protruding from the walls is studied. The solution was achieved by applying 3-D boundary element method and was employed to study wave field in the channel and to analyze the effect of the geometry of the mattresses and physical and hydraulic properties of porous material on wave damping. The results show that wave damping in the channel strongly depends on wave parameters, especially, on the wave number. Wave reflection and transmission decrease with increasing the wave number. The results also show that the wave field in the channel strongly depends on the geometry of the mattresses as well as on physical and hydraulic properties of porous material used to build these wave dampers. The geometry of the mattresses and physical and hydraulic properties of porous material have a moderate effect on wave reflection and a significant effect on wave transmission. The results show that wave transmission down the channel decreases with increasing the length and thickness of the mattresses. Moreover, wave transmission decreases with increasing the porosity and damping properties of porous media used to build the mattresses. The analysis shows that porous mattresses protruding from the channel walls are very efficient in damping water waves propagating down the channel and may be built in channels to reduce high waves and achieve desired wave conditions. Theoretical results are in reasonable agreement with experimental data.     

A theoretical study on a permanent wavefilter

This paper investigates a wavefilter which could effectively eliminate re-reflected waves generated in a wave flume over a certain range of wave periods. The wavefilter is not required to change its thickness for different incoming wave periods and is, therefore, termed here a permanent wavefilter. The structure comprises of a set of multilayer porous media. Their related properties such as porosities, friction factors and thickness are sought with the hope of developing a structure which could serve the desired purpose.A theoretical study has been performed. It was found that a multilayer porous media could eliminate re-reflected waves without resorting to adjusting the medium property whenever wave period changes, only if the thickness of the media has to exceed a certain amount.Generally speaking, a thicker multilayer porous media is needed for longer-period waves, while a thinner one is suitable for shorter-period waves. The wavefilter considered here could serve both eliminating re-reflected waves and also providing a desired median wave height if all of those related factors of the media have been properly selected and if the generated waves are restricted to not too wide a range of wave periods. However, it is unlikely that a wavefilter with fixed thickness can remain effective over too wide a range of wave period.     

Reflection of irregular waves from perforated-wall caisson breakwaters

An analytical model has been developed that predicts the reflection of irregular waves normally incident upon a perforated-wall caisson breakwater. To examine the predictability of the developed model, laboratory experiments have been conducted for the reflection of irregular waves of various significant wave heights and periods impinging upon breakwaters having various wave chamber widths. For frequency-averaged reflection coefficients, though the overall agreement is fairly good between measurement and calculation, the model somewhat over-predicts the reflection coefficients at larger values, and under-predicts at smaller values. The model also underestimates the energy loss coefficients as wave reflection becomes larger. These differences occur because the model neglects the evanescent waves near the breakwater, which increase the energy loss at the perforated wall. The frequency-averaged reflection coefficient shows a minimum when the wave chamber width is approximately 0.2 times the significant wavelength, and it decreases with increasing wave steepness. Finally, it is shown that the reflection of irregular waves from a perforated-wall caisson breakwater depends on the wave frequency, so that the reflected wave spectrum shows a frequency dependent oscillatory behavior.     

The scattering of regular surface waves by a fixed,half-immersed,circular cylinder

A train of regular surface waves is incident upon a fixed, half-immersed, circular cylinder; the waves are partially reflected and partially transmitted, and also induce hydrodynamic forces on the cylinder. In order to give a theoretical study of this problem, we make the familiar assumptions of classical hydrodynamics and then solve the linear, two-dimensional, diffraction boundary-value problem, using Ursell's multipole method. Accurate numerical results are presented (in the form of tables) for four important (complex) quantities; these are the reflection and transmission coefficients, and two dimensionless coefficients which describe the horizontal and vertical forces on the cylinder. We have also made an experimental study, in which we measured the forces on the cylinder, and the reflection coefficient. These measurements are compared with the linear theory, and also with other experimental data; discrepancies are noted and an attempt to analyse them is made. We have also measured the mean horizontal forces on the cylinder; these results are compared with the predictions of a simple formula obtained by Longuet-Higgins.     

Experimental investigating on the reflected waves from the caisson-type vertical porous seawalls

The hydrodynamic efficiencies of caisson-type vertical porous seawalls used for protecting coastal areas were calculated in this study. Physical models were developed to compare the wave reflection from vertical plane, semi-porous, and porous seawalls caused by both regular and random waves. Tests were carried out for a wide range of wave heights, wave periods, and different water depths (d=0.165, 0.270 and 0.375 m). The performance regarding the reflected waves from porous and semi-porous seawalls showed improvement when compared with those from the plane seawall. The reflection coefficients of the porous and semi-porous seawalls were calculated as 0.6 and 0.75, respectively, while the coefficient for the fully reflecting plane vertical wall was significantly higher (0.9). It was also observed that the reflection coefficient decreases with increase in wave steepness and relative water depth. In addition, the reduction in the reflection coefficient of porous and semi-porous seawalls, as compared to that of a plane seawall, was observed for both regular and random waves. New equations were also proposed to calculate the reflection coefficient of different types of seawalls with the aid of laboratory experiments. By verifying the developed equations using some other experimental data, it was validated that the equations could be used for practical situations. The results of the present study can be applied to optimize the design of vertical seawalls and for coastal protecting schemes.     

Characteristics of turbulent boundary layers over a rough bed under saw-tooth waves and its application to sediment transport

A large number of studies have been done dealing with sinusoidal wave boundary layers in the past. However, ocean waves often have a strong asymmetric shape especially in shallow water, and net of sediment movement occurs. It is envisaged that bottom shear stress and sediment transport behaviors influenced by the effect of asymmetry are different from those in sinusoidal waves. Characteristics of the turbulent boundary layer under breaking waves (saw-tooth) are investigated and described through both laboratory and numerical experiments. A new calculation method for bottom shear stress based on velocity and acceleration terms, theoretical phase difference, φ and the acceleration coefficient, a_c expressing the wave skew-ness effect for saw-tooth waves is proposed. The acceleration coefficient was determined empirically from both experimental and baseline k–ω model results. The new calculation has shown better agreement with the experimental data along a wave cycle for all saw-tooth wave cases compared by other existing methods. It was further applied into sediment transport rate calculation induced by skew waves. Sediment transport rate was formulated by using the existing sheet flow sediment transport rate data under skew waves by Watanabe and Sato [Watanabe, A. and Sato, S., 2004. A sheet-flow transport rate formula for asymmetric, forward-leaning waves and currents. Proc. of 29th ICCE, ASCE, pp. 1703–1714.]. Moreover, the characteristics of the net sediment transport were also examined and a good agreement between the proposed method and experimental data has been found.     

Wave attenuation characteristics of a tethered float system

Wave attenuation characteristics of a tethered float system have been investigated for various wave heights, wave periods, water depths, depths of submergence of floats and float sizes. As the floats are similar in size and shape, only a single tethered spherical float is considered for the theoretical analysis. Float motion is determined through the dynamical equation of motion, developed for a single degree of freedom. From incident and transmitted wave powers, transmission coefficients are computed. The results show that transmission coefficient does not vary with changes in wave height or water depth. When depth of submergence of float increases, wave attenuation decreases, showing that the system performs well when it is just submerged. As float velocity decreases with increase in float size, transmission coefficient increases with increase in float size. The influence of wave period on wave attenuation is remarkable compared to other parameters. The effect of drag on wave attenuation is studied for varying drag coefficient values. Theoretical results are compared with experimental values and it is found that theory overestimates wave attenuation which may probably be due to various linearisations involved in the theoretical formulation.     

Wave interaction with partially immersed twin vertical barriers

The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of partially immersed twin vertical barriers and the water surface fluctuations in between the barriers were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves of wide ranges of wave heights and periods, nine different immersions of the barriers and a constant water depth were used for the investigation. The coefficient of transmission, and the coefficient of reflection were obtained from the measurements and coefficient of energy dissipation is estimated using the law of conservation of energy. It is found in general that the twin barrier is better in reducing the coefficient of transmission and increasing the coefficient of dissipation in random waves than with the regular waves, especially for increasing incident wave energy levels. The coefficient of transmission reduces significantly with the increased relative water depth. Increase of relative water depth from 0.09 to 0.45 resulted in reduction of transmission coefficient from 0.65 to 0.05. It is possible to achieve a transmission coefficient less than 0.20 for six immersion configurations with relative depth of immersions of the barrier less than (0.28, 0.43), especially in the region closer to deep water conditions. Coefficient of dissipation ranging from 0.65 to 0.85 can be obtained due to random wave interaction.     

Laboratory study of wave and turbulence velocities in a broad-banded irregular wave surf zone

The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform.     

Local and far-field surface elevation around a vertical cylinder in unidirectional steep wave groups

The problem of diffraction of a unidirectional incident wave group by a bottom-seated cylinder is considered. We assume the amplitude of the incoming wave to be small in comparison with other linear scales of the problem, and develop the corresponding second-order perturbation theory. We use the Fourier transform to treat time variation and separate spatial variables when solving the non-homogeneous second-order problem. The resulting set of non-homogeneous Bessel equations is solved numerically.Solutions for various types of incoming wave spectrum are obtained including the Gaussian spectrum and the Pierson–Moskowitz spectrum. To validate the method, problems with gradually decreasing bandwidth of Gaussian spectrum are solved and it is shown that the corresponding solution approaches that for the monochromatic case. The Pierson–Moskowitz spectrum with a set of realistic physical parameters is used as an example of extreme wave interaction with an offshore structure. The corresponding first- and second-order solutions are obtained and the effect of non-linearity on the solution is discussed with the emphasis on the growth of maximum free-surface elevation on the cylinder’s surface and generation of high frequency free radiated waves.