The infralittoral prograding wedge: a new large-scale progradational sedimentary body in shallow marine environments

A progradational sedimentary body, the infralittoral prograding wedge (IPW), has been developing from the mean fair-weather wave-base level to the storm wave-base level between the onshore (beach) and the offshore (inner continental shelf) depositional zones along the Spanish coast during the Late Holocene. The main sedimentary body is composed of large inclined master beds which prograde seawards parallel to the shoreline, formed by sediments swept offshore by waves from shallow-water littoral environments. The inclined beds downlap onto finer-grained offshore sediments and, in turn, are overlain by shoreface deposits. The IPW is generated by downwelling storm currents and associated seaward transport of sediment. It represents a new depositional model for clastic wave-dominated coasts, and its identification requires a new subdivision of the nearshore environment. Received: 10 June 1999 / Revision accepted: 15 February 2000     

Sorted bedforms on the inner shelf off northeastern New Zealand: spatiotemporal relationships and potential paleo-environmental implications

Sorted bedforms are heterogeneous shelf seabed features found ubiquitously on the inner shelf of New Zealand and around the world. In this study we examine the shallow stratigraphy of sorted bedforms using diver-collected short cores together with the textural analysis of the associated surface sediments in the Tairua-Pauanui embayment on the northeast coast of the North Island of New Zealand. Combining sonar and textural analysis together with the local oceanographic conditions provides new insight into the interpretation of sorted bedform features. In this regional case study, sorted bedforms are found to have a stratigraphic signature characterized by alternating fine and coarse sequences that does not reflect alternating calm (low-energy) and storm (high-energy) cycles. Instead, the core sequences suggest the signature of a heterogeneous inner shelf sedimentary facies developed from morphodynamic feedback mechanisms operating at the scale of the bottom boundary layer. The resulting sedimentary sequence (alternating coarse and fine units) found throughout this study site is the result of contemporaneous sorting processes.     

Sediment transport and morphology at the surf zone of Presque Isle, Lake Erie, Pennsylvania

A four-year investigation of surf zone sedimentation at Presque Isle, Pennsylvania, was undertaken in preparation for the design of a segmented breakwater system. Sediment transport calculations were based on hind-cast annual wave power statistics and “calibrated” by known accretion rates at the downdrift spit terminus. 30,000 m³ of sediment reaches the peninsula annually from updrift beaches. The transport volume increases downdrift due to shoreface erosion and retreat of the peninsular neck. At the most exposed point on Presque Isle (the lighthouse) the annual transport is 209,000 m³. East of the lighthouse is a zone of net shoreface accretion as the longshore transport rate progressively decreases.

The downdrift variation in sediment supply, combined with increasing refraction and attenuation of the dominant westerly storm waves produce a systematic change in prevailing surf zone morphology. Storms produce a major longshore bar and trough along the exposed peninsular neck. The wave energy during non-storm periods is too low to significantly alter the bar which consequently becomes a permanent feature. The broad shoreface and reduced wave energy level east of the lighthouse produce a morphology characterized by large crescentic outer bars, transverse bars, and megacusps along the beach. At the sheltered and rapidly prograding eastern spit terminus the prevalent beach morphology is that of a ridge and runnel system in front of a megacuspate shore.

The morphodynamic surf zone model developed for oceanic beaches in Australia is used as a basis for interpretation of shoreface morphologic variability at Presque Isle. In spite of interference by major shoreline stabilization structures, and differences between oceanic and lake wave spectra, the nearshore bar field at Presque Isle does closely correspond to the Australian model.     

Ocean current generated sedimentary facies in the Osumi Strait, South of Kyushu, Japan

An investigation of the surface sediments and bedforms in the Osumi Strait, located between Kyushu and Tanegashima, south of Kyushu, Japan, was carried out. The distribution of some characteristics of the surface sediments and bedforms is clarified.In the Osumi Strait, the surface sediments tend to become finer in size, better sorted and lower in specific gravity from southwest to northeast. The bedform distribution shows a systematic change in the same direction. This direction is the same as the direction of sediment transportation and of the current flowing through the Strait. It is considered that these changes in bedforms and sediment properties are formed by the decrease in the energy of the current. The current generating bedforms and sediment distribution is the Osumi Branch Current, one of the branches of the Kuroshio. The sediment transportation is active under the present hydraulic conditions.The sedimentary facies developed in the Osumi Strait is controlled by a unidirectional ocean current. The ocean current is one of the important factors for sedimentary processes where strong ocean current prevails along or near the continental shelf such as around the Japanese Islands.     

Sediment-starved sand ridges on a mixed carbonate/siliciclastic inner shelf off west-central Florida

High-resolution side-scan mosaics, sediment analyses, and physical process data have revealed that the mixed carbonate/siliciclastic, inner shelf of west-central Florida supports a highly complex field of active sand ridges mantled by a hierarchy of bedforms. The sand ridges, mostly oriented obliquely to the shoreline trend, extend from 2 km to over 25 km offshore. They show many similarities to their well-known counterparts situated along the US Atlantic margin in that both increase in relief with increasing water depth, both are oriented obliquely to the coast, and both respond to modern shelf dynamics. There are significant differences in that the sand ridges on the west-central Florida shelf are smaller in all dimensions, have a relatively high carbonate content, and are separated by exposed rock surfaces. They are also shoreface-detached and are sediment-starved, thus stunting their development. Morphological details are highly distinctive and apparent in side-scan imagery due to the high acoustic contrast. The seafloor is active and not a relict system as indicated by: (1) relatively young AMS ¹⁴C dates (<1600 yr BP) from forams in the shallow subsurface (1.6 meters below seafloor), (2) apparent shifts in sharply distinctive grayscale boundaries seen in time-series side-scan mosaics, (3) maintenance of these sharp acoustic boundaries and development of small bedforms in an area of constant and extensive bioturbation, (4) sediment textural asymmetry indicative of selective transport across bedform topography, (5) morphological asymmetry of sand ridges and 2D dunes, and (6) current-meter data indicating that the critical threshold velocity for sediment transport is frequently exceeded. Although larger sand ridges are found along other portions of the west-central Florida inner shelf, these smaller sand ridges are best developed seaward of a major coastal headland, suggesting some genetic relationship. The headland may focus and accelerate the N–S reversing currents. An elevated rock terrace extending from the headland supports these ridges in a shallower water environment than the surrounding shelf, allowing them to be more easily influenced by currents and surface gravity waves. Tidal currents, storm-generated flows, and seasonally developed flows are shore-parallel and oriented obliquely to the NW–SE trending ridges, indicating that they have developed as described by the Huthnance model. Although inner shelf sand ridges have been extensively examined elsewhere, this study is the first to describe them in a low-energy, sediment-starved, dominantly mixed siliciclastic/carbonate sedimentary environment situated on a former limestone platform.     

Ecology of Quaternary benthic foraminiferal assemblages on the Amazon shelf,northern Brazil

The distribution of benthic foraminiferal microfauna recovered from two offshore transects on the Amazon shelf was studied. Eight box-core samples were collected along the inner, middle, and outer parts of the continental shelf. Each box-core sample was divided into 10 subsamples, of 1- to 5-cm intervals, in order to investigate the foraminiferal microhabitat preferences. The variations of salinity, oxygen, lithology, and sediment accumulation rates were used to evaluate ecological patterns. Four benthic foraminiferal assemblages identified in the study area characterize a record of oceanographic changes from early Holocene to the present. An abundant assemblage, with opportunistic species, was found near the river mouth. Two assemblages were identified northwest of the river mouth, with dominant epifaunal and infaunal species, respectively. A relict assemblage was encountered northwest of the river mouth.     

Seismic stratigraphy of Late Quaternary sediments of western Mersin Bay shelf, (NE Mediterranean Sea)

High-resolution shallow seismic-reflection profiles obtained from the western Mersin Bay have revealed the existence of the two distinct depositional sequences (C and B) lying on a narrow and relatively steeply-sloping continental shelf which mainly receives its sediments from the ephemeral rivers. The upper Holocene sedimentary sequence (C) is characterized by stratified (simple to complex) to chaotic reflection configurations produced by the development of a prograding wedge of terrigenous sediment. Particular occurrences of slope- and front-fill facies and the lack of a sharp boundary, which has, however, been observed on the western shelf of this bay, between the Early Holocene and latest Pleistocene deposits are related to possible movement of underlying deposits due to local gravity mass movements or synsedimentary tectonics due to adjustment of the underlying evaporites in adjacent basin. The maximum thickness of the topmost sequence C is associated with the Tarsus–Seyhan delta, which lies to the northeast of the area and is prograding along the shelf. Other variations in thickness (5–40 m) of this topmost sequence are related to the variable sediment discharge along the coast, and the distance from the coast. It is at a maximum (40 m) in the nearshore area just west of the Lamas river mouth and at a minimum (5–15 m) in the offshore area.

The lower depositional pre-Holocene sequence (B) is characterized by continuous to wavy reflection configurations and how some cyclicity, suggesting coarse, heterogeneous sediments deposited under high energy conditions (fan-deltas) of Plio-Pleistocene age.

The combined interpretation of seismic reflection profiles with the available bore-hole data reveals the existence of a widespread Miocene acoustic basement (A) off the Susanoğlu–Tırtar coasts and Karapınar–Gilindirez rivers mouths. Unusual features in some profiles suggest the escape of coastal freshwater into the accumulating sediment.     

Boundary roughness and bedforms in the surf zone

Hydrodynamical models of the nearshore system frequently assume that a single friction coefficient is sufficient to represent flow conditions at a point in the surf zone. Furthermore, models attempting to relate bed configuration to surf zone flows have relied primarily upon the wave orbital velocity as an indicator of potential bedforms, and thus as the control on boundary roughness. The data presented here point out potential errors arising from either of these approaches. The results of a field experiment conducted at Wendake Beach, Ontario, show that at a single location in an active surf zone, the Darcy-Weisbach friction coefficient, f, varied by approximately 250% (in this case between 0.016 and 0.041).

It is also shown that existing bedform models, based upon primary wave motions alone, do not accurately predict conditions at this study site. For a relatively constant wave orbital velocity and velocity asymmetry, it is found that changes in bed roughness, as a result of bedform development, are reflected mainly in the vertical profile of the long-shore current velocity. A sequence of bedforms, from oscillatory ripples through flat bed, is inferred from the data, and found to be supported by diver observations and preserved primary sedimentary structures.     

Regional stratigraphic framework linking continental shelf and coastal sedimentary deposits of west-central Florida

A regional study of the Holocene sequence onlapping the west-central Florida Platform was undertaken to merge our understanding of the barrier-island system with that of the depositional history of the adjacent inner continental shelf. Key objectives were to better understand the sedimentary processes, sediment accumulation patterns, and the history of coastal evolution during the post-glacial sea-level rise. In the subsurface, deformed limestone bedrock is attributed to mid-Cenozoic karstic processes. This stratigraphic interval is truncated by an erosional surface, commonly exposed, that regionally forms the base of the Holocene section. The Holocene section is thin and discontinuous and, north or south of the Tampa Bay area, is dominated by low-relief sand-ridge morphologies. Depositional geometries tend to be more sheet-like nearshore, and mounded or ridge-like offshore. Sand ridges exhibit 0.5–4 m of relief, with ridge widths on the order of 1 km and ridge spacing of a few kilometers. The central portion of the study area is dominated nearshore by a contiguous sand sheet associated with the Tampa Bay ebb-tidal delta. Sedimentary facies in this system consist mostly of redistributed siliciclastics, local carbonate production, and residual sediments derived from erosion of older strata. Hardground exposures are common throughout the study area. Regional trends in Holocene sediment thickness patterns are strongly correlated to antecedent topographic control. Both the present barrier-island system and thicker sediment accumulations offshore correlate with steeper slope gradients of the basal Holocene transgressive surface. Proposed models for coastal evolution during the Holocene transgression suggest a spatial and temporal combination of back-stepping barrier-island systems combined with open-marine, low-energy coastal environments. The present distribution of sand resources reflects the reworking of these earlier deposits by the late Holocene inner-shelf hydraulic regime.     

Forced regressive wedge in the Mesoproterozoic Koldaha Shale,Vindhyan basin,Son valley,central India

The present paper highlights the sequence development within the Mesoproterozoic Koldaha Shale Member of the Kheinjua Formation, Vindhyan Supergroup which records the occurrence of a forced regressive wedge and associated discontinuity surfaces at the base of the wedge. Nine lithofacies have been identified within the study area that are grouped into three lithofacies associations varying in depositional setting from outer shelf, through shoreface-foreshore-beach to continental braidplain. The outer shelf sediments are aggradational to slightly progradational representing highstand systems tract. The rapidly progradational, wedge-shaped shoreface to foreshore-beach succession occurs sharply or erosively above the outer shelf sediments and is bounded by a regressive surface of marine erosion (RSME) at the base and by a subaerial unconformity at the top. This, along with its downstepping trajectory, supports deposition of this sedimentary wedge during falling sea level. A laterally extensive soft sediment deformation zone occurs at the base of the wedge.The forced regressive wedge is incised by fluvial braidplain deposits that rest on an erosive surface representing a sequence boundary. The thin braidplain deposits are the product of aggradation during a subsequent early rise in relative sea level, and thus, they are inferred to represent a lowstand systems tract. The constituent architectural elements that characterize the braidplain deposits are downstream accretion elements and small channel elements. Further landward, the base and top of the shoreface wedge merge to form an unconformity across deposits that rest directly on the outer shelf sediments. The identification of forced regressive wedges has significant economic importance in view of the potential occurrence of hydrocarbons within the Proterozoic formations.     

Reconstruction of paleo-wave conditions during the Late Pleistocene from marine terrace deposits, Monterey Bay, California

The Santa Cruz coastal terrace fringes much of the northern Monterey Bay region, California. It consists mainly of a regressive sequence of high-energy, barred nearshore marine sediments deposited during the last (Sangamonian) highstand of sea level. This sequence can be sub-divided into several depth-dependent facies on the basis of paleo-current data and vertical sequence of sedimentary structures. These include a lower shoreface facies deposited in 10–16 m water depth, an upper shoreface facies (including both a storm-dominated assemblage and a surf zone assemblage) deposited in 0–10 m water depth, and a foreshore facies deposited in the swash zone, up to 3.5 m above high tide.

The magnitudes of the storm events responsible for depositing these sediments were estimated by calculating paleo-wave heights using a variety of criteria (e.g., critical threshold equations, breaker depths, berm heights). In addition, the climate and paleogeography during the deposition of these sediments were essentially the same as today, allowing the use of present-day wave statistics to estimate the frequency of these storm events. The largest storms formed offshore-flowing currents (e.g., rip, wind-forced, and possibly storm-surge ebb currents) that resulted in the deposition of approximately 30% of the sediments seaward of the surf zone; however, the magnitude and frequency of these events are unknown. The remaining 70% of the sediment beyond the surf zone was deposited in response to smaller storm waves which were, on the average, at least 1.6 m high; such waves presently occur no more than 15% of the time. Sediments deposited during “fairweather” conditions (i.e., the remaining 85% of the time) have a low preservation potential, and are generally not preserved in this facies. In contrast, surf zone sediments were deposited by a variety of processes associated with waves whose maximum offshore heights were probably ≤ 2.2 m; such waves presently occur up to 92% of the time. Sediments within the swash zone were deposited by waves up to 3 m high, the largest of which presently occur approximately 2% of the time.

Most of the sediments were deposited by storms of intermediate magnitude and frequency; different facies, however, appear to preferentially record events of different recurrence intervals. In particular, surf zone sediments were deposited under relatively small storm and post-storm conditions, whereas sediments deposited farther offshore record increasingly larger, less frequent storm events. Relatively rare events (e.g., the 100 or 1000 yr events) do not appear to have significantly affected sedimentation in these nearshore environments.     

Stratigraphic framework of sediment-starved sand ridges on a mixed siliciclastic/carbonate inner shelf; west-central Florida

Seismic reflection profiles and vibracores have revealed that an inner shelf, sand-ridge field has developed over the past few thousand years situated on an elevated, broad bedrock terrace. This terrace extends seaward of a major headland associated with the modern barrier-island coastline of west-central Florida. The overall geologic setting is a low-energy, sediment-starved, mixed siliciclastic/carbonate inner continental shelf supporting a thin sedimentary veneer. This veneer is arranged in a series of subparallel, shore-oblique, and to a minor extent, shore-parallel sand ridges. Seven major facies are present beneath the ridges, including a basal Neogene limestone gravel facies and a blue-green clay facies indicative of dominantly authigenic sedimentation. A major sequence boundary separates these older units from Holocene age, organic-rich mud facies (marsh), which grades upward into a muddy sand facies (lagoon or shallow open shelf/seagrass meadows). Cores reveal that the muddy shelf facies is either in sharp contact or grades upward into a shelly sand facies (ravinement or sudden termination of seagrass meadows). The shelly sand facies grades upward to a mixed siliciclastic/carbonate facies, which forms the sand ridges themselves. This mixed siliciclastic/carbonate facies differs from the sediment on the beach and shoreface, suggesting insignificant sediment exchange between the offshore ridges and the modern coastline. Additionally, the lack of early Holocene, pre-ridge facies in the troughs between the ridges suggests that the ridges themselves do not migrate laterally extensively. Radiocarbon dating has indicated that these sand ridges can form relatively quickly (1.3 ka) on relatively low-energy inner shelves once open-marine conditions are available, and that frequent, high-energy, storm-dominated conditions are not necessarily required. We suggest that the two inner shelf depositional models presented (open-shelf vs. migrating barrier-island) may have co-existed spatially and/or temporally to explain the distribution of facies and vertical facies contacts.     

Sea-level, sediment supply and coastal changes: Examples from the coast of Ireland

Sediment supply and pre-existing shoreline morphology are crucial factors in controlling coastal changes due to sea-level rise. Using examples from both southeast and northeast Ireland, it can be shown that sea-level change may trigger a sequence of events which leads to both static and dynamic shoreline equilibrium. Cliff erosion and longshore sediment movement in east Co. Wexford has led to injection of sediment onto the shelf, and the growth, under both wave and tide regimes, of linear offshore shoals. These shoals now control the pattern of shoreline erosion and provide a template for possible stepwise evolution of the coast under any future sea-level rise. In contrast, the nearby coast of south Co. Wexford comprises a series of coarse clastic barriers moving monotonously onshore, via overwash processes. Here the behavior of the barrier is conditioned by the antecedent morphology of both the beach face and stream outlet bedforms. Finally, the rock platform coast of Co. Antrim presents a far more resistant shoreline to incident marine processes, yet even here there is strong evidence of present process control over so-called ‘raised’ platforms and embayments. It is concluded that coastal sediment supply and dynamics, together with coastal morphology and its interaction with waves, present a far more complex variety of sea-level indicators than is normally acknowledged.     

Marine Sand Resources Offshore Israel

The continental margin of northern Sinai and Israel, up to Haifa Bay, is the northeastern limb of the submarine Nile Delta Cone. It is made up predominantly of clastics from the Nile and its predecessors. The continental shelf and coastal plain of Israel are built of a series of shore-parallel ridges composed of carbonate-cemented quartz sandstone (locally named kurkar), a lithification product of windblown sands that were piled up into dunes during the Pleistocene. The drop in global sea level and regression during the last glacial period exposed the continental shelf to subaerial erosion and created a widespread regional erosional unconformity which is expressed as a prominent seismic reflector at the top of the kurkar layers. The subsequent Holocene transgression abraded much of the westernmost kurkar ridges, drowned their cores, and covered the previous lowstand deposits with marine sands, which were in turn covered by a sequence of sub-Recent clayey silts. The Mediterranean coasts of Sinai and Israel are part of the Nile littoral cell. Since the building of the Aswan dams the sand supplied to Israel's coastal system is derived mainly from erosion of the Nile Delta and from sands offshore Egypt that are stirred up by storm waves. The sands are transported by longshore and offshore currents along the coasts of northern Sinai and Israel. Their volume gradually declines northward with distance from their Nile source. The longshore transport terminates in Haifa Bay where some sand is trapped, and the test escapes to deeper water by bottom currents and through submarine canyons, thus denying Nile-derived sand supply to the 40-km-long 'Akko-Rosh Haniqra shelf. The sand balance along Israel's coastal zone is a product of natural processes and human intervention. Losses due to the outgoing longshore transport, seaward escape, and landward wind transport exceed the natural gains from the incoming longshore transport and the abrasion of the coastal cliffs. The deficit is aggravated by the construction of (1) seaward-projecting structures that trap sands on the upstream side and (2) offshore detached breakwaters that trap sands between themselves and the coast. The negative sand balance is manifested by the removal of sand from the seabed and the consequent exposure of archaeological remains that were hitherto protected by it. The sediments that escape seaward from the longshore transport system form a 2.5- to 4-km-wide sandy apron adjacent to the shore that extends to where the water is 30 - 40 m deep. The apron's slope (0.5 - 0.8) is steeper than the theoretical equilibrium slope for the median grain-size diameter in this zone (0.1 - 0.3 mm). The beach sands and the apron's surficial sands are well sorted. Their grain size decreases with distance from shore, from 0.2 - 0.3 mm nearshore to 0.11 - 0.16 mm by the drowned ridge. The coarse-grained fraction consists of skeletal debris (commonly 5 - 12% carbonate matter) and wave-milled kurkar grains (locally named zifzif). In deeper water, the basal sands underlying the fine-grained sediment cover consist of 1- to 30-cm layers whose composition ranges from silty sands to various types of sands (fine, medium, coarse, and gravelly) to zifzif. For the most part, they contain large amounts of skeletal debris (20 - 60%) and small fragments of kurkar. Two types of kurkar rock were encountered offshore: a well-sorted, fine- to medium-grained (0.074 - 0.300 mm) lithified dune sand with variable amounts of carbonate cement, ranging from hard rock of low permeability to loose sand; and a porous sandstone made up predominantly of algal grains and skeletal debris (calcarenite).     

Longshore current and sediment transport on composite beach profiles

Natural beaches tend to exhibit an equilibrium profile that is planar nearshore and nonplanar, concave-up offshore. The longshore current on this type of beach profile depends on the horizontal distance to the location of the intersection between the planar and nonplanar profiles. As the width of the planar beach face decreases, the location of the maximum longshore current moves closer to the shore. The dependency of the corresponding longshore sediment transport rate on the location of the intersection between the two profiles is demonstrated for two energetics-based sediment transport models. Again, a narrower beach face results in the maximum sediment transport being closer to the shore. Total sediment transport rates are also a function of the planar beach face width. This suggests that longshore transport rates are modulated by the tidal elevation.     

Facies, internal structures and sequences of modern Gironde-derived muds on the Aquitaine inner shelf, France

Seventy cores from the Aquitaine continental shelf were examined using radiographic and grain-size techniques in order to describe the sedimentary structures of the muddy deposits, and to evaluate their depositional processes. Four lithofacies are identified in this fine-grained deposit: (a) homogeneous silty sand, (b) interbedded homogeneous mud and sand, (c) silty-clayey mud, and (d) mottled mud. They show a logical pattern in relationship to the water depth and the distance from the coast.

Primary structures are present particularly in the landward and central portion of the mud fields, where the sediment is organized into sequences with a sharp-based erosional contact, overlain by a fining-up succession (centimetre to decimetre scale). The beginning of each of these is characteristic of a high-energy storm event, which is common on this shelf. The settling of suspended fine sediment corresponds to the flood estuarine discharge during quiet periods. Primary sedimentary structures decrease in the distal area where the muddy sediment is frequently reworked by infauna. Finally, primary structures and their preservation depend on the relative magnitudes of surface waves, storms, infaunal mixing and fluvial sediment deposition rates (i.e. floods).     

Shoreface morphodynamics on wave-dominated coasts

An open ocean shoreface typical of long, wave-dominated sandy coasts has been examined through a combination of extensive field measurements of wave and current patterns with computations of marine bedload transport and sedimentation. Sand transport on the upper shoreface is dominantly controlled by waves with only secondary transport by currents. Sand on the middle and lower shoreface, as well as the inner continental shelf is entrained by storm waves and transported by a complex pattern of bottom boundary layer currents.

Storm events have been studied and modeled for the shoreface off Tiana Beach, Long Island. The dominant effect of coastal frontal storms is to cause significant shore-parallel bedload transport with important shore-normal secondary components. These storms tend to result in net offshore transport of sand removed from the beach and surf zone systems. The bedload transport during a storm is convergent on the shoreface leading to accretion. Most accretion occurs on the upper shoreface with lesser deposits covering the middle and lower shoreface as well as the inner continental shelf. Longer-term equilibrium can be maintained by slow return of sand up the shoreface during non-storm conditions.

Annual and geologic time-scale budgets of shoreface sand transport and sedimentation yield equilibrium, net accretion or net deposition. The annual balance results from an integration of the event-scale bedload transport patterns and morphologic responses. These processes and responses have feedback mechanisms which stabilize the system over longer, but not geologic, time scales. Geologic time scale balances are controlled by relative sea level changes and relative availability of sediment supply with the event-scale shoreface and transporting processes providing the mechanism to produce the changes in long-term morphology and sedimentation patterns. In the area of study, the long-term pattern is one of net shoreface erosion, and the permanent loss of sand to the shelf floor.     

Human-induced sedimentation at El Hamra piled mooring pier, western Mediterranean coast of Egypt

El Hamra mooring pier was constructed on the northwestern Mediterranean coast of Egypt to provide shipping services for offshore oil terminals. Although the pier was built on cylindrical piles to avoid the interruption of sediment transport towards the south, unexpected sedimentation has affected navigation and the attached fire-fighting system. To provide a basis for evaluating the sedimentation problem and to provide possible mitigation strategies, a 23-month measurement program was conducted, including measurements of hydrographic surveying, nearshore waves, longshore currents, longshore littoral transport, currents seawards of the breaker zone, and offshore currents. The results confirm that carbonate sediments are transported southwards to the pier embayment from adjacent up-coast ridges by wave-induced currents. These sediments result from extensive civil engineering works (recreational development) up-coast of the El Hamra region, involving leveling of subaerial carbonate ridges and onshore sediment disposal.     

Atmospheric forcing of fine-sand transport on a low-energy inner shelf: south-central Louisiana,USA

Hydrodynamic and sediment transport measurements from instrumentation deployed during a 54-day winter period at two sites on the Louisiana inner shelf are presented. Strong extratropical storms, with wind speeds of 7.8 to 15.1 m s^-1, were the dominant forcing mechanism during the study. These typically caused mean oscillatory flows and shear velocities about 33% higher than fair weather (averaging 12.3 and 3.2 cm s^-1 at the landward site, and 11.4 and 2.7 cm s^-1 at the seaward site, respectively). These responses were coupled with mean near-bottom currents more than twice as strong as during fair weather (10.3 and 7.5 cm s^-1 at the landward and seaward sites, respectively). These flowed in approximately the same direction as the veering wind, causing a net offshore transport of fine sand. Weak storms were responsible for little sediment transport whereas during fair weather, onshore sand transport of approximately 25-75% of the storm values appears to have occurred. This contradicts previous predictions of negligible fair-weather sediment movement on this inner shelf.