基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力垂向分布

基于二阶斯托克斯波理论推导了辐射应力的垂向分布表达式,通过算例讨论了辐射应力在深水和有限水深条件下的垂向分布规律,并与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力进行了比较.结果表明,在波浪非线性不强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力表达式计算结果接近;而当水深较浅波浪非线性较强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力在近表面处明显大于基于微幅波理论的辐射应力.采用二阶斯托克斯波理论推导的波浪辐射应力更为合理地反映了波浪非线性效应.     

近岸岛屿周围波生流的数值模拟

基于非结构网格有限体积法的环流模型,建立了相位平均的波流作用模型。模型中考虑了波浪破碎效应的三维辐射应力和波流作用下的扩散系数。通过模拟试验水池中人工岛和天然岛屿周围的波生流,对岛周围波生流的运动特征进行了分析。当波浪垂直入射到均匀斜坡上的人工岛时,岛周围产生回流和对称的环流,流速沿水深分布稍有差异。在天然岛屿中,入射波浪在近岸形成沿岸流。靠近岸线岛屿周围的沿岸流比离岸较远岛屿周围的流速大。这和辐射应力在浅水区域作用有关,岸线区域波生流特征明显。近岸岛屿周围在波浪辐射应力下产生不同的波浪增水,该波浪增水形成压力梯度进而促进岛屿周围的流态变化。     

海岸沿岸流垂向分布实验研究

进行海岸沿岸流模型实验,利用ADV(acoustic doppler velocimeter)测量了沿岸流流速沿垂直岸线方向多个断面的垂向分布。采用Faria等的方法对实验结果进行了分析,将沿岸流沿水深分为上层和下层两部分:下层采用对数分布来表达沿岸流的垂向分布;上层考虑了波浪引起的自由表面的波动,流速分布为修正的对数分布。最后对沿岸流垂向分布特征做了分析,并与Visser和Hamilton的实验结果做了对比。     

波浪辐射应力对海流模式影响的数值分析

将波浪辐射应力,特别是地转意义下的波浪辐射应力引入海流数值模式POM(princeton ocean model),在渤海海域进行了初步的数值研究。在目前的数值分析中仅考虑了波浪辐射应力的横向分量(也是最重要的分量)。在POM模式中引入非地转和地转意义下的波浪辐射应力两种方案,并与原模式直接运行(即不考虑波浪辐射应力)的结果进行比较。比较显示,波浪辐射应力,特别是地转意义下的波浪辐射应力对海流模式结果的影响不容忽略。在海浪场存在的条件下,由风应力和地转意义下浪致作用力共同作用产生的海流强度应比理论上Ekman漂流的强度大,尤其是在浪致作用力显著的表层,表层流将明显增强,且不会完全符合Ekman漂流理论的转向规律。     

潜堤上规则波辐射应力的数值研究

在近岸波浪相关研究中,辐射应力是波动在水体中引起的剩余动量流,是波浪运动的重要物理量。在波浪从深水逐渐传向浅水的过程中,波浪的非线性逐渐增强,甚至会发生破碎等剧烈变形,引起辐射应力的强烈变化,对次重力波生成等有重要贡献。应用OpenFOAM精细模拟波浪在潜堤上的传播,得出波浪运动的详细流场信息,计算了有波浪破碎情况下潜堤地形上波浪的辐射应力和波浪增减水情况。研究结果表明,在潜堤地形下,辐射应力值在堤前平底处受波幅变化影响较敏感,波浪完全破碎后其值在堤后坡面处呈增大趋势直至平底处趋于平稳。辐射应力沿程变化对波浪增减水的影响趋势与波浪增减水方程符合良好。     

结合椭圆型缓坡方程模拟近岸波流场

波浪向近岸传播的过程中,由波浪破碎效应所产生的近岸波流场是近岸海域关键的水动力学因素之一.结合近岸波浪场的椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波浪场及由斜向入射波浪破碎后所形成的近岸波流场进行了数值模拟.计算中考虑到波浪向近岸传播中由于波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应使局部复杂区域波向不易确定,采用结合椭圆型缓坡方程所给出的波浪辐射应力公式来计算波浪产生的辐射应力,在此基础上耦合椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波流场进行数值模拟,从而使模型综合考虑了波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应且避免了对波向角的直接求解,可以应用于相对较复杂区域的近岸波流场模拟.     

远区台风“三巴”对河口波浪增水和波生流影响数值模拟研究

波浪增水和波生流是河口泥沙输运、地貌演变和污染物扩散的重要动力之一,但目前关于远区台风影响下长江口波浪增水和波生流的研究比较缺乏。本文建立了覆盖东中国海的台风-天文潮-波浪耦合三维数值模型,研究了远区台风“三巴”对长江口波浪增水和波生流的影响。结果表明:波浪从台风中心向近岸传播过程中,能量耗散引起波浪作用力的衰减和辐射应力的增大,产生波浪增水,长江口波浪增水在0.05 ~0.20 m之间,占台风总增水值的15%~22%。从NW向入射的台风浪产生自北向南的波生沿岸流,垂向上呈现三维结构,平均流速在0.05~0.20 m/s之间,占风暴潮流的15%~50%,充分说明了远区台风可以对长江口波浪增水和波生流产生明显影响,研究成果可以为河口极值水位和流速计算、泥沙输运、水下三角洲地貌演变等研究提供参考。     

近岸区域波流耦合作用的数学模型

本文提出了一个讨论近岸波浪和波生流耦合作用的二维数学模型。在波浪场中运用波数矢量无旋和波作用量守恒方程求解波浪在波生流作用下的折射、绕射变形,以辐射应力作为波生流场的驱动力,考虑地转柯氏力和海底底摩擦的作用。文中采用Dingemans（1987）的地形对波流耦合作用进行了分析。数值计算结果表明波流耦合作用对近岸波浪场和波生流场的影响比较显著,在工程实际上应当综合考虑波流耦合问题。     

珊瑚礁海岸波流运动特性整体物理模型实验研究

根据现场地形在港池中建立三维珊瑚礁?潟湖?裂口海岸定床整体物理模型,采用波高传感器、流速仪和表面流速测量系统分别测量了规则波作用下珊瑚礁海岸不同位置的波浪和流场特征。结果表明:礁坪上,波高在向岸方向逐渐减小,总减小幅度为86.7%,增水先增大后减小,沿礁坪下降幅度为65.9%,水流以向岸流为主,存在着先增大后减小的趋势;潟湖中,波高靠近裂口处较大,中部最大值约为两侧最小值的2.8倍,增水则靠近裂口处最小,相比两侧最大值下降了25.5%,水流主要为对称地指向裂口的沿岸流,流速从两侧到裂口先增大后减小;裂口中波高变化不大,增水在靠近潟湖处最大,为礁坪上增水的47.6%,水流主要为离岸流,流速同样是先增大后减小。量化分析了环流驱动力、辐射应力与波面压力梯度的空间变化规律,发现礁坪上向岸流变化是平均水位梯度和辐射应力相互作用的结果,在裂口中的离岸流驱动力主要为辐射应力,而潟湖中的沿岸流变化由平均水位梯度决定的。     

波浪、潮流和风暴潮耦合模式及悬沙输移规律的研究

近年来，由于河口、海岸地区的泥沙运动与港口、航道以及海岸的冲淤有着直接的关系，对一些海岸建筑物比如防波堤、护岸工程等造成一定的威胁，甚至于使其完全丧失使用价值，造成巨大的损失。为此人们越来越重视对这一问题的研究。本文为估计岸滩的冲淤变化和了解岸滩的演变规律，对影响泥沙运动的海洋动力要素进行了研究。 为研究悬沙的输移规律，建立了一个由两部分组成的二维悬沙模型系统：①水动力模式。建立了一个综合多因素的二维波浪、潮汐和风暴潮耦合模式，以此来研究波、潮、风暴潮间的相互作用，并为泥沙计算提供流速场。②二维悬沙模式。运用得出的流场来研究悬沙的输移扩散规律。其中所采用的波浪模式是将流对波浪场的影响同时加以考虑的耦合数学模型，将流速加入波能方程，并考虑由于水面的升降而产生的不定常水深对波浪场的影响，再将波浪场对流场的影响通过辐射应力、考虑波浪影响的底应力以及依赖波龄的表面风应力耦合到流场中，从而建立了一个综合多种因素的波浪、潮汐、风暴潮联合作用下的二维悬沙模型系统。并在此模型系统的基础上，对黄河口泥沙的输移问题作了探讨，为今后的防堤、护岸工程提供依据。     

Numerical Simulation of the Three-Dimensional Wave-Induced Currents on Unstructured Grid

By coupling the three-dimensional hydrodynamic model with the wave model, numerical simulations of the three-dimensional wave-induced current are carried out in this study. The wave model is based on the numerical solution of the modified wave action equation and eikonal equation, which can describe the wave refraction and diffraction. The hydrodynamic model is driven by the wave-induced radiation stresses and affected by the wave turbulence. The numerical implementation of the module has used the finite-volume schemes on unstructured grid, which provides great flexibility for modeling the waves and currents in the complex actual nearshore, and ensures the conservation of energy propagation. The applicability of the proposed model is evaluated in calculating the cases of wave set-up, longshore currents, undertow on a sloping beach, rip currents and meandering longshore currents on a tri-cuspate beach. The results indicate that it is necessary to introduce the depth-dependent radiation stresses into the numerical simulation of wave-induced currents, and comparisons show that the present model makes better prediction on the wave procedure as well as both horizontal and vertical structures in the wave-induced current field.     

A Three-Dimensional Nearshore Hydrodynamic Model with Depth-Dependent Radiation Stresses

For the simulation of the three-dimensional (3D) nearshore circulation,a 3D hydrodynamic model is developed by taking into account the depth-dependent radiation stresses.Expressions for depth-depeedent radiation stresses in the Cartsian coordinates are introduced on the basis of the linear wave theory,and then vertical variations of depth-dependent radiation stresses are discussed.The 3D hydrodynamic model of EICIRC (Eulerian-Lagrangian CIRCulation) is extended by adding the terms of the depth-dependent or depth-averaged radiation stresses in the momentum equations.The wave set-up,set-down and undertow are simulated by the extended ELCIRC model based on the wave fields provided by the experiment or the REF/DIF wave model.The simulated results with the depth-dependent and depth-averaged radiation stresses both show good agreement with the experimental data for wave set-up and set-down.The undertow profiles predicted by the model with the depth-dependent radiation stresses are also consistent with the experimental results,while the model with the depth-averaged radiation stresses can not reflect the vertical distribution of undertow.     

Numerical study of three-dimensional wave-induced longshore current's effects on sediment spreading of the Huanghe River mouth

A three-dimensional wave radiation stress is introduced into the hydrodynamic sediment coupled model COHERENS-SED,which has been developed through introducing wave-enhanced bottom shear stress,wave dependent surface drag coefficient,wave-induced surface mixing,SWAN,damping function of sediment on turbulence,sediment model and depth-dependent wave radiation stress to COHERENS.The COHERENS-SED is adopted to study the effects induced by wave-induced three-dimensional longshore current on suspended sediment spreading of the Huanghe River (Yellow River) mouth.Several different cases divided by setting different wave parameters of inputting boundary waves are carried out.The modeling results agree with measurement data.In terms of simulation results,it is easy to know that three-dimensional wave radiation stress plays an obvious role when inputting boundary wave height is stronger than 3 m.Moreover,wave direction also affects the sediment spreading rules of the mouth strongly too.     

Numerical study of three-dimensional wave-induced longshore current''s effects on sediment spreading of the Huanghe River mouth

A three-dimensional wave radiation stress is introduced into the hydrodynamic sediment coupled model COHERENS-SED, which has been developed through introducing wave-enhanced bottom shear stress, wave dependent surface drag coefficient, wave-induced surface mixing, SWAN, damping function of sediment on turbulence, sediment model and depth-dependent wave radiation stress to COHERENS. The COHERENS-SED is adopted to study the effects induced by wave-induced three-dimensional longshore current on suspended sediment spreading of the Huanghe River (Yellow River) mouth. Several different cases divided by setting different wave parameters of inputting boundary waves are carried out. The modeling results agree with measurement data. In terms of simulation results, it is easy to know that three-dimensional wave radiation stress plays an obvious role when inputting boundary wave height is stronger than 3 m. Moreover, wave direction also affects the sediment spreading rules of the mouth strongly too.     

Analysis and prediction of vortex-induced vibrations of variable-tension vertical risers in linearly sheared currents

Many studies have tackled the problem of vortex-induced vibrations (VIV) of a vertical riser with a constant tension and placed in uniform currents. In this study, attention is focused on the cross-flow VIV modelling, time-domain analysis and prediction of variable-tension vertical risers in linearly sheared currents. The partial-differential equation governing the riser transverse motion is based on a flexural tensioned-beam model with typical pinned-pinned supports. The hydrodynamic excitation model describing the modulation of lift force is based on a distributed van der Pol wake oscillator whose nonlinear equation is also partial-differential due to the implementation of a diffusion term. The variation of empirical wake coefficients with system parameters and the water depth-dependent Reynolds number is introduced. Based on the assumed Fourier mode shape functions obtained by accounting for the effect of non-uniform tension, the Galerkin technique is utilized to construct a low-dimensional multi-mode model governing the coupled fluid-riser interaction system due to VIV. Numerical simulations in the case of varying sheared flow profiles are carried out to systematically evaluate riser nonlinear dynamics and highlight the influence of fluid-structure parameters along with associated VIV aspects. In particular, the effects of shear and tensioned-beam (tension versus bending) parameters are underlined. Some comparisons with published experimental results and observations are qualitatively and quantitatively discussed. Overall parametric analysis and prediction results may be worthwhile for being a new benchmark against future experimental testing and/or numerical results predicted by an alternative model and methodology.     

正压浅海湍流运动的雷诺应力封闭模型

根据湍流封闭理论,建立一种适用于正压浅海湍流运动的雷诺应力封闭模型(RSM),以代替目前三维浅海动力学模型中普遍采用的湍粘性系数的传统假设。通过直接建立并模化f—平面上正压海洋的雷诺应力传输方程,分别得到的微分形式和代数形式的RSM方程组。并讨论了进行数值计算所需要的边界条件。利用该模型可以进一步研究浅海潮流、风暴潮流及风海流等浅海流动的三维结构和湍流特性。     

The synchronous coupling of a third-generation wave model and a two-dimensional storm surge model

The interaction of waves and currents is studied by the dynamical coupling of a third generation wave model and a two-dimensional storm surge model. The coupling process of the two models is implemented synchronously. To estimate the effects of waves on the generation of storm surges, the theory of Janssen is used. The effects of the wave radiation stress on surge levels and the effects of storm-induced currents on waves are also investigated.The coupled wave and storm surge models have been tested by hindcasting two storm events in the northern South China Sea. The use of the Simth and Banke stress relation underestimates the surges by 10%. The inclusion of the radiation stress improves the accuracy of the computed results slightly by 2%. The introduction of a wave-dependent surface drag gives a significant improvement. The storm-induced currents clearly affect the wave characteristics at the peak stage. However, as far as the prediction of wave height is concerned, it is better not to consider the wave radiation stress in the storm surge model unless this is accompanied by a wave-dependent surface drag.     

Submesoscale variability of the current and wind fields in the coastal region of Sochi

The results of direct high temporal resolution (10 min) measurements of the surface and bottom currents and wind stress in the coastal zone of Sochi in May 2009 are presented. An analysis of the mesoscale and submesoscale variability of the current velocity and wind stress is performed on the basis of these measurements, and their correlation is studied. The principal high-frequency and low-frequency components of the current velocity variability are identified. In the majority of the observation cases, the coastal currents reveal no significant correlation with the mean wind over the studied region. However, the correlations between the currents and the spatial variability of wind are explained well by the local topography.     

基于间断有限元方法的三维近岸波生流数值模型建立

在三维水动力模型中引入三维辐射应力,水滚影响以及波浪附加紊动效应,并基于间断有限元方法建立了非结构化网格三维波生流数值模型。采用实验室内斜坡地形条件下正向入射波在破波带附近产生的近底回流和斜向入射波产生的沿岸流对模型进行了验证。结果表明,计算值与实测值吻合程度较好,该模型可以较好地描述三维近岸波生流。     

Surface geostrophic currents across the Antarctic circumpolar current in Drake Passage from 1992 to 2004

The Southern Ocean plays an important role in the global overturning circulation as a significant proportion of deep water is converted into intermediate and deeper water masses in this region. Recently, a secular trend has been reported in wind stress around the Southern Ocean and it is thought theoretically that the strength of the ACC is closely related to wind stress, so one consequence should be a corresponding increase in ACC transport and hence changes in the rate of the global overturning. There are no long-term data sets of ACC transport and so we must examine other data that may also respond to changing wind stress. Here we calculate surface currents in Drake Passage every seven days over 11.25 years from 1992 to 2004. We combine surface velocity anomalies calculated from satellite altimeter sea surface heights with measured surface currents. Since 1992, the UK has regularly occupied WOCE hydrographic section SR1b across the ACC in Drake Passage. From seven hydrographic sections surface currents are estimated by referencing relative geostrophic velocities from CTD sections with current measurements made by shipboard and lowered acoustic Doppler current profilers. Combining the seven estimates of surface currents with the altimeter data reduces bias in the estimates of average currents over time through Drake Passage and we show that surface current anomalies estimated by satellite and in situ observations are in good agreement. The strongest surface currents are found in the Subantarctic and Polar Fronts with average speeds of 50 cm/s and 35 cm/s, respectively and are inversely correlated, so that maximum westward flow in one corresponds to minimum westward flow in the other. The average cross-sectional weighted surface velocity from 1992 to 2004 is 16.7 ± 0.2 cm/s. A spectral analysis of the average surface current has only weakly increasing energy at higher frequencies and there is no dominant mode of variability. The standard deviation of the seven day currents is 0.68 cm/s and a running 12 month average has only a slightly smaller standard deviation of 0.52 ± 0.16 cm/s. The southern annular mode (SAM) measures the circumpolar average of wind stress and like the surface currents its spectrum has slightly increased energy at frequencies greater than 1 cpy. A cospectral analysis of these, averaging cospectra of five slightly overlapping 36 month segments improve statistical reliability, suggests that there is coherence between them at 1 cpy with the currents leading changes in the Southern annular mode. We conclude that the SAM and average Drake Passage surface currents are weakly correlated with no dominant co-varying modes, and hence predicting Southern Ocean transport variability from the SAM is not likely to give significant results and that secular trends in surface currents are likely to be masked by weekly and interannual variability.