海浪波面极大值分布的非线性影响

依非线性海浪模型,在二阶近似下,利用特征函数展开技术和直接求矩的方法,导出了定点波面位移及其对时间的一阶和二阶导数的联合分布。由此联合分布,导出了二阶非线性近似下的波面极大值分布。它由线性意义下的海浪频谱及所考虑的二阶级。波相互作用所确定。当忽略非线性影响时,文中给出的波面极大值分布退化为Cartwright和Longuet-Higgins所导出的分布。     

Wave measurement based on light refraction

Some authors have developed a few methods of measuring wave slopes based on light refraction, including the measurement method via the distribution of light intensity or color under water. A new method based on light refraction is specified for the measurement of wave surface elevation in wave flume via imaging technology. A plane painted with black and white stripes is put on the flume floor as an indication plane, which can be arranged easily and cheaply. Compared with the previous methods, the present method is less sensitive to the noise and nonlinear effects of optical process, which can be taken as a digital method. The CCD camera is fixed above the flume with its optical axis arranged vertically to grab the images of stripes modulated by the wave surface. The modulated value can be calculated from the Hilbert transform, and then the wave surface elevation can be obtained. The algorithm and experimental procedure are specified in detail, and some experimental results are provided to show the validity of the present method.     

Wave measurement based on light refraction

Some authors have developed a few methods of measuring wave slopes based on light refraction, including the measurement method via the distribution of light intensity or color under water. A new method based on light refraction is specified for the measurement of wave surface elevation in wave flume via imaging technology. A plane painted with black and white stripes is put on the flume floor as an indication plane, which can be arranged easily and cheaply. Compared with the previous methods, the present method is less sensitive to the noise and nonlinear effects of optical process, which can be taken as a digital method. The CCD camera is fixed above the flume with its optical axis arranged vertically to grab the images of stripes modulated by the wave surface. The modulated value can be calculated from the Hilbert transform, and then the wave surface elevation can be obtained. The algorithm and experimental procedure are specified in detail, and some experimental results are provided to show the validity of the present method.     

Estimation of Design Wave Heights for Coastal Sea Areas

Based on historical wind fields in the Bohai Sea,a sequence of annual extremal wave heightsis produced with numerical wave models for deep-water and shallow water.The design wave heights withdifferent return periods for the nearest deep-water point and for the shallow water point are estimated onthe basis of P-Ⅲ type,Weibull distribution,and Gumbel distribution;and the corresponding values for theshallow water point are also estimated based on the HISWA model with the input of design wave heightsfor the nearest deep-water point.Comparisons between design wave heights for the shallow water point es-timated on the basis of both distribution functions are HISWA model show that the results from differentdistribution functions scatter considerably,and influenced strongly by return periods;however,the resultsfrom the HISWA model are convergent,that is,the influence of the design wave heights estimated with dif-ferent distribution functions for deep water is weakened,and the estimated values decrease for long     

Long Wave Reflection and Transmission over A Sloping Step

This investigation examines long wave reflection and transmission induced by a sloping step. Bellman and Kalaba‘s (1959) invariant imbeddlng is introduced to find wave reflection. An alternative method matching both the surface elevation and its surface slope of each region at the junction is applied to the determination of wave reflection and transmission.The proposed methods are compared with the accurate numerical results of Porter and Porter (2000) and those of Mei (1983) for a vertical step. The wave reflection obtained for a mildly sloping step differs significantly from the result of Mei. The wave reflection is found to fluctuate owing to wave trapping for the ntild sloping step. The height and the face slope of the step are important for determining wave reflection and transmission coefficients.     

Numerical Prediction of Regular Wave Breaking on Very Gentle Slopes

Regular wave deformation and breaking on very gende slopes is calculated by Mixed-Eulerian-Lagrangian procedure. The velocity potentials and their normal derivatives on the boundary are calculated through the mixed 0-1 boundary element method. The wave elevation and the potentials of time-stepping integration are detertnined by the 2nd-order Taylor expansion at the nodes of free surface boundary elements. During calculation the x-coordinates of the free surface element nodes are supposed to remain unchanged, i.e. the partial derivatives of wave elevation and potentials with respect to x are considered as zero. The numerical results of asymmetric parameters of breaking waves are verified by experimental study. It is shown that when the wave asymmetry is weak, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particales occurs at the wave peak and, the average ratio of this maximum velocity to wave celerity is 0.96. However, when the wave asymmetry is strong, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particles occu     

Wave pattern induced by a moving atmospheric pressure disturbance

A moving low atmospheric pressure is a main feature of tropical cyclones, which can induce a system of forced water waves and is an important factor that cause water level rise during a storm. A numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water equations is applied to study the forced waves caused by an atmospheric pressure disturbance moving with a constant velocity over water surface. The effects of the moving speed, the spatial scale and the central pressure drop of the pressure disturbance are discussed. The results show that the wave pattern caused by a moving low-pressure is highly related with its moving speed. The wave pattern undergoes a great change as the moving speed approaches the wave velocity in shallow water. When the moving speed is less than the wave velocity, the distribution of water surface elevation is nearly the same as that of the pressure disturbance, and the maximum of the water surface elevation is located at the center of pressure. When the moving speed is larger than the wave velocity, a triangle shaped wave pattern is formed with a depression occurs in front of the pressure center, and the maximum of the water surface elevation lags behind the center of pressure. As the moving speed increases, the maximum of the water surface elevation firstly increases and then decreases, which reaches a peak when the moving speed is close to the wave velocity. The maximum of water surface elevation is approximately in proportion to the central pressure drop, and slightly affected by the spatial scale of pressure disturbance. Both the central pressure drop and the spatial scale of the pressure disturbance do not significantly affect the forced wave pattern. However, a clear difference can be noticed on the ratio of the maximum water surface elevation in moving pressure situation to that in static situation, when the moving speed is close to the wave velocity. A pressure disturbance with smaller spatial scale and smaller central pressure drop will give a larger ratio when the moving speed is close to the wave velocity.     

Information System for Ocean Wave Resources and Its Application to Wave Power Utilization

An information system for ocean wave resources and its application to wave power utilizationare indtroduced.It can manage,analyze and process the data in the monthly report of ocean wave observa-tion records of the State Ocean Administration,and can provide various kinds of curves and numericalcharacters of statistics.This system has been put into utility in Guangzhou Institute of Energy Conversion(GIEC),the Chinese Academy of Sciences since 1996.An application example is given of theinverstigation and analysis on ocean wave resource of the Nan Ao Island,Guangdong Province,where a100 kW onshore OWC(oscillating water column)wave power station will be built.The wave power distri-bution is obtained in different wave directions for different wave periods.It is found that 70 percent of thewave power comes from the direction of ENE,and more than 95 percent of the wave power is related withdirection E.The average wave power density is about 3 kW/m,and more than 80 percent of the wavepower is distributed in the     

涌浪对风浪能量影响的实验研究

在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加.     

Effect of Berm Width and Elevation on Irregular Wave Run-Up

This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite slope are derived. The changing of wind speed, width and elevation of the berm are considered comprehensively. The wave run-up with various exceedance probability can be es-timated utilizing the distribution curves of irregular wave run-up.     

A weakly non-gaussian model of wave height distribution for random wave train

The wave height distribution with Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation are investigated. The results show that a non-Gaussian model of wave height distribution reasonably agrees with experimental data. It is discussed that the fourth order moment (kurtosis) of water surface elevation corresponds to the first order nonlinear correction of wave heights and is related with wave grouping.     

Estimation of Wind Wave Frequency Spectra by Use of the Arcsine Law

In the present study,the surface elevation of wind waves oberved in laboratory and in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the estimation of the wind wave frequency spectrum by use of the method of the arcsine law(MAL).The traditional method uses the surface elevation to calculate the correlation and then estimate the frequency spectrum while the MAL,presented by Yu and Lan(1979),uses the time sequence of zero-crossing points of surface elevation rather than directly the surface elevation to calculate the correlation.66 sets of wind wave data obtained in laboratory and 420 sets of data observed in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the examination of the method introduced by Yu and Lan.Results show that the MAL can give reliable estimation of wind wave spectra.Correlation and form of spectra estimated by the MAL are similar to those estimated by the traditional method.The peak frequency and the spectral density in peak frequency by the MAL are close to those obtained by the traditional method.     

Modified Rayleigh Distribution of Wave Heights in Transitional Water Depths

This paper concerns the calculation of wave height exceedance probabilities for nonlinear irregular waves in transitional water depths, and a Transformed Rayleigh method is first proposed for carrying out the calculation. In the proposed Transformed Rayleigh method, the transformation model is chosen to be a monotonic exponential function, calibrated such that the first three moments of the transformed model match the moments of the true process. The proposed new method has been applied for calculating the wave height exceedance probabilities of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the Poseidon platform. It is demonstrated in this case that the proposed new method can offer better predictions than those by using the conventional Rayleigh wave height distribution model. The proposed new method has been further applied for calculating the total horizontal loads on a generic jacket, and its accuracy has once again been substantiated. The research findings gained from this study demonstrate that the proposed Transformed Rayleigh model can be utilized as a promising alternative to the well-established nonlinear wave height distribution models.     

A Study on the Distribution of Wave Phases

Probability distributions of wave phases in association with distributions of surface elevations arestudied with wave records.Wave records of different nature are used for comparison.These are surface fluc-tuations acquired during wind wave flume experiments,representing wave generation under strong wind:andwave records measured in the northern part of Taiwan for waves in natural environments.Three probabilitymodels,the unifrom distribution,the beta distribution,and a model from Tayfun and Lo(1989)are adoptedto study the possible distributions of wave phases.It is found that when surface elevations become skewed,wave phases deviate from the usually assumed uniform distribution and a better model would be the beta dis-tribution.     

Occurrence probability of a freak wave in a nonlinear wave field

The Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of the probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation expands the maximum wave height distribution to predict the occurrence probability of freak waves. This study investigated the enhancement of the occurrence probability of freak waves due to the fourth order moment of surface elevation, kurtosis, change and found that the nonlinear effects on the occurrence probability of a freak wave linearly depends on kurtosis for a small number of waves N=250. The statistical theory was compared with field data, and freak waves sometimes appear when not expected by the Rayleigh theory, but they were predicted by the proposed theory.     

A Numerical Model for Edge Waves on A Compound Slope

An edge wave is a kind of surface gravity wave basically travelling along a shoaling beach. Based on the periodic assumption in the longshore direction, a second order ordinary differential equation is obtained for numerical simulation of the cross-shore surface elevation. Given parameters at the shoreline, a cross-shore elevation profile is obtained through integration with fourth-order Runge-Kutta technique. For a compound slope, a longshore wavenumber is obtained by following a geometrical approach and solving a transcendental equation with an asymptotic method. Numerical results on uniform and compound sloping beaches with different wave periods, slope angles, modes and turning point positions are presented. Some special scenarios, which cannot be predicted by analytical models are also discussed.     

由模拟波面统计分析波高－周期联合分布

阐述以实测或拟合海浪谱为靶谱，用等能量分割法作波面数值模拟，从而利用模拟波面统计分析波高（Ｈ）－周期（Ｔ）联合分布。对波候的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布、长时段海浪连续记录的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布以及风浪、涌浪和混合浪的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布进行了讨论。结果表明，只要已知特征波高和周期，就可反演出模拟波面，进而估测Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布情况，这对了解与各种特征波高对应的周期问题及在海洋工程应用上有一定的参考意义。     

The Nonlinear Wave Force on a Circular Cylinder in Shallow Water

Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the nonlinear wave diffraction around a circular cylinder in shallow water is studied in this paper. The equation of the wave surface around the cylinder is formulated and by using this formula the wave surface elevation on the cylinder surface can be obtained. In this paper, the formula for calculating the cnoidal wave force on a circular cylinder is also derived. For the wave conditions which are often encountered in practical engineering designs, the ratios of the nonlinear wave forces to the linear wave forces are calculated, and the results are plotted in this paper for design purposes. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted. After comparing the test results with the theoretical ones, it is concluded that, in shallow water, for the case of T g / d~(1/2) > 8-10 and H / d > 0.3, the cnoidal wave theory should be used to calculate the wave action on a cylindrical pier.     

风浪波群中波高分布研究

在实验室风浪槽中观测风浪,发现波群连长是影响波群中波高分布的重要因素,随着波群连长增大,波群中波高分布信息熵增大。当以平均波高无因次化,连长较大时波群中波高累积概率明显大于连长较小时情形。波群中波高分布受谱宽度影响。当谱宽度增大,波群中波高累积概率降低。谱宽度和波群连长对波群中波高累积概率的影响相当。引进体现波群特性的1个无因次化波高参量研究波群中波高累积概率。     

Dependence of Wave Height Distribution on Spectral Width and Wave Steepness

In this paper experimental wind wave data are analyzed. It is found that differences in spectral width will give rise to differences in wave height distribution. The effect of spectral width on the distribution is mainly in the high wave range. The effect of wave steepness is in low, medium and high wave ranges. In the high wave range the effect of spectral width is comparable to that of wave steepness. Differences in spectral width in the observations may give rise to discrepancies in the result when wave steepness is the only parameter in the distribution.