A perturbation method to solve dispersion equations for water waves over dissipative media

A simple and innovative method to solve explicitly the dispersion equation for water waves over dissipative media is presented. The roots of this equation are themselves complex and difficult to obtain by standard numerical methods. A general structure for the dispersion relation is given, the dimensionless wave number, x, depending on the value of a dissipation parameter, φ, which is a function of the dissipative medium. Based on the hypothesis that a small perturbation in the dissipation parameter, δφ, produces a small variation in the dimensionless wave number, δx, a simple approach is proposed to calculate explicitly in an iterative manner the complex roots. The new method improves upon the unreliability of standard numerical schemes in the calculation of the roots in dissipative media.     

Local balance in the air-sea boundary processes

A new growth equation for wind waves of simple spectrum is presented upon three basic concepts. The period and the wave height of significant waves in dimensionless forms, which are considered to correspond to the peak frequency and the energy level, respectively, are used as representative quantities of wind waves. One of the three basic concepts is the concept of local balance, and the other two concern the acquisition of wave energy and the dissipation of wave energy, respectively. It is shown from some actual data that the equation, together with two universal constants concerning the acquisition and the dissipation of wave energy (B=6.2×10^?2 andK=2.16×10^?5, respectively), is applied universally to wide ranges of wind waves from those in a wind-wave tunnel to fully developed sea in the open ocean. “The three-second power law for wind waves of simple spectrum”, and a few relations as the lemmas, are derived, such that the mean surface transport due to the orbital motion of wind waves is always proportional to the friction velocity in wind, and that the steepness is inversely proportional to the root of the wave age. It is also derived that the portion of wind stress which directly enters the wind waves decreases exponentially with increasing wave age and is 7.5 % of the total wind stress for very young waves. Also, equations are presented as to the increase of momentum of drift current, and as to the supply of turbulent energy by wind waves into the upper ocean.     

Graphical determination of the height of surge waves

This study deals with the propagation of surge waves in open channels. The governing equations are derived for an arbitrary cross-section and specific solutions are given for rectangular, parabolic, and trapezoidal cross-sections. The method can be applied in each case, where the relation between the level and the area is known in advance. The hypotheses are the same as in classical treatises of surge waves, but the derived equations in dimensionless parameters show the possibility of plotting graphs for the given profile, which allows the finding of the solution in each case without a trial-and-error procedure, as with the classical method.The same equations show that (a) in the case of positive waves generated at the upstream side of a channel, two of the three defined parameters can have any prescribed value and the third can readily be found; (b) in the case of positive waves generated at the downstream end, an inequality must hold in order that the third parameter has a physical interpretation.     

Geometrical properties of perfect breaking waves on composite breakwaters

The experimental results have so far shown that when a wave breaks on a vertical wall with an almost vertical front face at the instant of impact that is called perfect breaking or perfect impact, the greatest impact forces are produced on the wall. Therefore, the configuration of breaking waves is important in the design considerations of coastal structures. The present study is concerned with determining the geometrical properties of oscillatory waves that break perfectly on the vertical wall of composite-type breakwaters. The laboratory tests for perfect breaking waves on composite breakwaters are conducted with base slopes of 1/2, 1/4 and 1/6, and with berm widths of 0.00, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30 and 0.40 m. The shape and the dimensions of waves at the instant of perfect breaking on the wall are determined using a video camera. The experimental results for the geometrical properties of the breakers are presented non-dimensionally. Within the range of present experimental conditions, it is found that the dimensionless breaker crest height, h_b/d_w, and dimensionless breaker height, H_b/d_w, decrease; and, dimensionless breaker depth, d_w/H₀, increases with increasing relative berm width, B/D. The breaker height index, H_b/H₀, is almost unaffected by B/D. The deep-water wave steepness and the base slope of the breakwater do not seem to influence the geometrical properties of the breakers at wall systematically.     

A study of Coriolis effects on long waves propagating in an unbounded ocean, channel and basin

The effects of Coriolis force on long waves have been discussed based on gravity waves propagating in an unbounded ocean, channel and basin. In case of ocean, results show that the Coriolis effect will be significant and negligible, when the wave period is comparable to 2π/f and much shorter, respectively. Results also show in a channel, the wave amplitude and water particle velocity decrease exponentially in the positive y direction in the northern hemisphere (where f is positive). Moreover, in a basin, the Cotidal lines have been found as curves and rotate counterclockwise around the origin.     

Propagating tsunami wave and subsequent resonant response signals detected by HF radar in the Kii Channel,Japan

Signals from the tsunami waves induced by the March 11, 2011 moment magnitude (M_w) 9.0 Tohoku-Oki earthquake and from subsequent resonances were detected as radial velocity variability by a high-frequency ocean surface radar (HF radar) installed on the eastern coast of the Kii Channel, at a range of about 1000 km from the epicenter along the eastern to southern coasts of Honshu Island. A time–distance diagram of band-passed (9–200 min) radial velocity along the beam reveals that the tsunami waves propagated from the continental shelf slope to the inner channel as progressive waves for the first three waves, and then natural oscillations were excited by the waves; and that the direction of the tsunami wave propagation and the axis of the natural oscillations differed from that of the radar beam. In addition, spectral analyses of the radial velocities and sea surface heights obtained in the channel and on the continental shelf slope suggest complex natural oscillation modes excited by the tsunami waves.     

Formation of beach cusps in a wave tank

Beach cusps with a longshore spacing of 20 to 150 cm have been built by the continuous action of incident waves on a steep laboratory beach floor covered uniformly with a thin bed of glass beads. Breaking of incident waves was observed to induce vortices on the bed by interacting with swash motion along the beach face. Beach cusps formed when the value of a dimensionless parameter H_b/sgT_i² became smaller than 0.042; H_b is the breaking height of the incident waves, T_i their period, s the beach slope and g the acceleration due to gravity. This critical value occurred at a nearly central part of the generation region 0.003 < H_b/sgT_i² < 0.068 for plunging breakers presented by Galvin (1968). Breaking-wave-induced vortices rather than breaker types controlled the movement of bed material in the nearshore zone. Most of the measured spacings of beach cusps, including previous observations, were in good agreement with half a wavelength of the zero-mode subharmonic edge wave, which is generated on the beach by the refraction of incident waves and has twice the period of the waves. The role of edge waves at each stage of cusp formation still remains as an important problem to be clarified.     

Drag Coefficient,Dynamic Roughness and Reference Wind Speed

Surface waves are the roughness element of the ocean surface. The parameterization of the drag coefficient of the ocean surface is simplified by referencing to wind speed at an elevation proportional to the characteristic wavelength. The dynamic roughness is analytically related to the drag coefficient. Under the assumption of fetch limited wave growth condition, various empirical functions of the dynamic roughness can be converted to equivalent expressions for comparison. For datasets covering a wide range of the dimensionless frequency (inverse wave age), it is important to account for the variable rate of wave development at different wave ages. As a result, the dependence of the Charnock parameter on wave age is nonmonotonic. Finally, the analysis presented here suggests that the significant wave steepness is a sensitive property of the ocean surface and a single variable normalization of the dynamic roughness using a wavelength or wave height parameter actually produces more robust functions than bi-variable normalizations using wave height and wave slope.     

Observation of wave-enhanced turbulence in the near-surface layer of the ocean during TOGA COARE

Dissipation rate statistics in the near-surface layer of the ocean were obtained during the month-long COARE Enhanced Monitoring cruise with a microstructure sensor system mounted on the bow of the research vessel. The vibration contamination was cancelled with the Wiener filter. The experimental technique provides an effective separation between surface waves and turbulence, using the difference in spatial scales of the energy-containing surface waves and small-scale turbulence. The data are interpreted in the coordinate system fixed to the ocean surface. Under moderate and high wind-speed conditions, we observed the average dissipation rate of the turbulent kinetic energy in the upper few meters of the ocean to be 3–20 times larger than the logarithmic layer prediction. The Craig and Banner (J. Phys. Oceanogr. 24 (1994) 2546) model of wave-enhanced turbulence with the surface roughness length from the water side z₀ parameterized according to the Terray et al. (J. Phys. Oceanogr. 26 (1996) 792) formula z₀=cH_s provides a reasonable fit to the experimental dissipation profile, where z is the depth (defined here as the distance to the ocean surface), c≈0.6, and H_s is the significant wave height. In the wave-stirred layer, however, the average dissipation profile deviates from the model (supposedly because of extensive removing of the bubble-disturbed areas close to the ocean surface). Though the scatter of individual experimental dissipation rates (10-min averages) is significant, their statistics are consistent with the Kolmogorov's concept of intermittent turbulence and with previous studies of turbulence in the upper ocean mixed layer.     

南极西北威德尔海上层海洋湍流混合研究

Turbulent mixing in the upper ocean(30-200 m) of the northwestern Weddell Sea is investigated based on profiles of temperature,salinity and microstructure data obtained during February 2014.Vertical thermohaline structures are distinct due to geographic features and sea ice distribution,resulting in that turbulent dissipation rates(ε) and turbulent diffusivity(K) are vertically and spatially non-uniform.On the shelf north of Antarctic Peninsula and Philip Ridge,with a relatively homogeneous vertical structure of temperature and salinity through the entire water column in the upper 200 m,both ε and K show significantly enhanced values in the order of O(10~(-7))-O(10~(-6)) W/kg and O(10~(-3))-O(10~(-2)) m~2/s respectively,about two or three orders of magnitude higher than those in the open ocean.Mixing intensities tend to be mild due to strong stratification in the Powell Basin and South Orkney Plateau,where s decreases with depth from O(10~(-8)) to O(10~(-9)) W/kg,while K changes vertically in an inverse direction relative to s from O(10~(-6)) to O(10~(-5)) m~2/s.In the marginal ice zone,K is vertically stable with the order of10~(-4) m~2/s although both intense dissipation and strong stratification occur at depth of 50-100 m below a cold freshened mixed layer.Though previous studies indentify wind work and tides as the primary energy sources for turbulent mixing in coastal regions,our results indicate weak relationship between K and wind stress or tidal kinetic energy.Instead,intensified mixing occurs with large bottom roughness,demonstrating that only when internal waves generated by wind and tide impinge on steep topography can the energy dissipate to support mixing.In addition,geostrophic current flowing out of the Weddell Sea through the gap west of Philip Passage is another energy source contributing to the local intense mixing.     

Multiple thermohaline states due to variable diffusivity in a hierarchy of simple models

The effect of variable vertical diffusivity is investigated in dynamically reduced models of the thermohaline circulation (THC) in a rectangular basin. In a simple box model, sufficiently strong variation of the diffusivity κ_v with stability G can lead to the existence of two stable equilibria. Related behaviour is found in well-resolved frictional geostrophic (FG) models. A hierarchy of under-resolved FG models is constructed, the simplest of which is an 8-cell cube, to connect the two extremes of resolution. Multiple solutions in low-order models are found to correspond to the formation of high-gradient layers which are unlikely to be resolved by current ocean models. Physical arguments show that layering and multiple solutions require κ_v to decrease more rapidly than 1/G and sensitivity experiments suggest that, in addition, κ_v must vary by a factor of 10–100. In two-hemisphere runs with salinity forcing included, the dependence of diffusivity on stratification is found to marginally favour equatorially symmetric states. Finally, such variation is shown to have a profound effect on the periodic, flush-collapse cycle under strong saline forcing; specifically, if diffusivity is taken to be a function of stratification rather than depth, regime transitions can occur much more easily. It will therefore be important for climate modelling to determine which is more realistic.     

Stress concentration factors (SCFs) of bulge formed K-joints under balanced axial loads

A novel stiffened joint called bulge formed joint was put forward. Compared with the unstiffened joint, an additional bulge plate is utilized to connect the chord and braces. Based on the finite element (FE) and experimental method, stress concentration factors (SCFs) were investigated for both a bulge formed K-joints and the corresponding unstiffened joint. By the verification of experimental data, the FE models were used to investigate the SCFs of the bulge formed joints. The maximum SCF of the bulge formed K-joint under balanced axial loads is located at the position φ = 105°, which is close to but not exactly the saddle. The SCFs around the intersection weld can decrease remarkably compared with the unstiffened joint by the change of geometrical parameters of the bulge plate. Then 2117 FE analyses were conducted to investigate the geometrical effects on SCFs of the bulge formed joint. These dimensionless geometrical parameters include τ_s, η₁, η₂, θ, β, γ, τ, among which, the first three parameters are typical of the bulge formed joints, while the others are same as the definitions in the unstiffened joints. Finally, a set of SCF parametric formulas were obtained by nonlinear regression analyses.     

Numerical simulation of flow around a circular cylinder close to a flat seabed at high Reynolds numbers using a k–ε model

High Reynolds number flows around a circular cylinder close to a flat seabed have been computed using a two-dimensional standard high Reynolds number k–ε turbulence model. The effects of gap to diameter ratio, Reynolds number and flat seabed roughness for a given boundary layer thickness of the inlet flow upstream of the cylinder have been investigated. Hydrodynamic quantities and the resulting bedload transport have been predicted, and the vortex shedding mechanisms have been investigated. Predictions of hydrodynamic quantities around a cylinder located far away from the bed (so that the effect of the bed is negligible) are in satisfactory agreement with published experimental data and numerical results obtained for the flow around an isolated cylinder. Results for lower Reynolds number flows have also been computed for comparison with the high Reynolds number flow results. Overall it appears that the present approach is suitable for design purposes at high Reynolds numbers which are present near the seabed in the real ocean.     

Influence of surface forcing on near-surface and mixing layer turbulence in the tropical Indian Ocean

An autonomous upwardly-moving microstructure profiler was used to collect measurements of the rate of dissipation of turbulent kinetic energy (ε) in the tropical Indian Ocean during a single diurnal cycle, from about 50 m depth to the sea surface. This dataset is one of only a few to resolve upper ocean ε over a diurnal cycle from below the active mixing layer up to the air–sea interface. Wind speed was weak with an average value of ~5 m s⁻¹ and the wave field was swell-dominated. Within the wind and wave affected surface layer (WWSL), ε values were on the order of 10⁻⁷–10⁻⁶ W kg⁻¹ at a depth of 0.75 m and when averaged, were almost a factor of two above classical law of the wall theory, possibly indicative of an additional source of energy from the wave field. Below this depth, ε values were closer to wall layer scaling, suggesting that the work of the Reynolds stress on the wind-induced vertical shear was the major source of turbulence within this layer. No evidence of persistent elevated near-surface ε characteristic of wave-breaking conditions was found. Profiles collected during night-time displayed relatively constant ε values at depths between the WWSL and the base of the mixing layer, characteristic of mixing by convective overturning. Within the remnant layer, depth-averaged values of ε started decaying exponentially with an e-folding time of 47 min, about 30 min after the reversal of the total surface net heat flux from oceanic loss to gain.     

Prediction of berm geometry using a set of laboratory tests combined with teaching–learning-based optimization and artificial bee colony algorithms

Understanding sediment movement in coastal areas is crucial in planning the stability of coastal structures, the recovery of coastal areas, and the formation of new coast. Accretion or erosion profiles form as a result of sediment movement. The characteristics of these profiles depend on the bed slope, wave conditions, and sediment properties. Here, experimental studies were performed in a wave flume with regular waves, considering different values for the wave height (H₀), wave period (T), bed slope (m), and mean sediment diameter (d₅₀). Accretion profiles developed in these experiments, and the geometric parameters of the resulting berms were determined. Teaching–learning-based optimization (TLBO) and artificial bee colony (ABC) algorithms were applied to regression functions of the data from the physical model. Dimensional and dimensionless equations were found for each parameter. These equations were compared to data from the physical model, to determine the best equation for each parameter and to evaluate the performances of the TLBO and ABC algorithms in the estimation of the berm parameters. Compared to the ABC algorithm, the TLBO algorithm provided better accuracy in estimating the berm parameters. Overall, the equations successfully determined the berm parameters.     

Methodology for wide-angle seismic modeling of marine gas hydrate deposits

A wide angle seismic modeling methodology was developed for the purpose of studying marine gas hydrate deposits. The software for seismic modeling was selected on the basis of comparative analysis and testing of different computer programs. Five averaged prognostic two-dimensional models were developed. These models include the gas hydrate zone, the free gas zone, and the basement. The prognostic models suggested represent the structure of gas hydrate deposits for various regions of the World Ocean. Wave field calculations were made for various positions of ocean bottom seismometers with respect to the gas hydrate zone using the seismic tomography technique. Numerical experiments showed significant anomalies of the kinematical and dynamical characteristics of the refracted and wide-angle reflected waves. These anomalies are related to the gas hydrate and the free gas zones and to a possible channel of hydrocarbon supply.     

A modified method for estimating vertical profiles of turbulent dissipation rate using density inversions in the Kuril Straits

To address the lack of directly measured turbulence data in the Kuril Straits, an existing method was modified to indirectly estimate continuous vertical profiles of turbulent energy dissipation rate ε by using density inversions. A linear relationship was confirmed between directly measured ε and indirectly estimated ε from the existing method, where most of the detected density inversions were discarded as noise. The existing method thus yielded large gaps in the vertical profiles, and the gaps were much greater than the observed mean autocorrelation vertical length scale of about 10 m. To reduce these gaps and produce reasonable estimates for vertical ε profiles, the quality tests were carefully re-examined with directly measured ε data, and one of the quality tests (the water mass test) was excluded because the test rejects real density inversions even with large ε. With this modification, and interpolation and smoothing of the indirectly estimated ε with the mean correlation length scale, continuous vertical ε profiles were obtained. These profiles have an error factor of 3.3 corresponding to one standard deviation of the ratio between directly observed and estimated data, and 95 % of the data were within a factor of 10.5, with the overall correlation coefficient between smoothed directly measured ε and estimated ε equal to 0.80. This method could be useful for areas where 10^?9 < ε < 10^?6.5 W/kg, and where vertical distances between adjacent density inversions are mostly less than the mean autocorrelation scale.     

Prediction of geometrical properties of perfect breaking waves on composite breakwaters

Breaking wave loads on coastal structures depend primarily on the type of wave breaking at the instant of impact. When a wave breaks on a vertical wall with an almost vertical front face called the “perfect breaking”, the greatest impact forces are produced. The correct prediction of impact forces from perfect breaking of waves on seawalls and breakwaters is closely dependent on the accurate determination of their configurations at breaking. The present study is concerned with the determination of the geometrical properties of perfect breaking waves on composite-type breakwaters by employing artificial neural networks. Using a set of laboratory data, the breaker crest height, h_b, breaker height, H_b, and water depth in front of the wall, d_w, from perfect breaking of waves on composite breakwaters are predicted using the artificial neural network technique and the results are compared with those obtained from linear and multi-linear regression models. The comparisons of the predicted results from the present models with measured data show that the h_b, H_b and d_w values, which represent the geometry of waves breaking directly on composite breakwaters, can be predicted more accurately by artificial neural networks compared to linear and multi-linear regressions.