Dependence of Wave Height Distribution on Spectral Width and Wave Steepness

In this paper experimental wind wave data are analyzed. It is found that differences in spectral width will give rise to differences in wave height distribution. The effect of spectral width on the distribution is mainly in the high wave range. The effect of wave steepness is in low, medium and high wave ranges. In the high wave range the effect of spectral width is comparable to that of wave steepness. Differences in spectral width in the observations may give rise to discrepancies in the result when wave steepness is the only parameter in the distribution.     

波峰特征量的统计分布

本文在作者另文数值模拟得到的三维海浪基础上 ,进一步分析给出了三维波峰长度、高度及方向角度等特征量的统计分布。发现考虑海浪的方向性质后波峰分布不再是均匀连续的 ;波峰的长度分布受方向函数影响 ,方向分布越宽 ,波峰的平均长度越短 ,波峰的方向角分布越宽 ;波峰高度和长度在波峰高度较小时有很大的相关性 ,而在波峰高度很大时无关     

由模拟波面统计分析波高－周期联合分布

阐述以实测或拟合海浪谱为靶谱，用等能量分割法作波面数值模拟，从而利用模拟波面统计分析波高（Ｈ）－周期（Ｔ）联合分布。对波候的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布、长时段海浪连续记录的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布以及风浪、涌浪和混合浪的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布进行了讨论。结果表明，只要已知特征波高和周期，就可反演出模拟波面，进而估测Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布情况，这对了解与各种特征波高对应的周期问题及在海洋工程应用上有一定的参考意义。     

Joint Distribution of Wave Periods and Rate of Change of Wave Surface Elevation

The rate of change of wave surface elevation is of much importance in ocean engineering,es-pecially for the determination of the limitation of wave breaking.This paper gives a kind of joint distribu-tion of wave periods and the rate of change of wave surface elevation by means of calculation of the two-or-der to four-order moment of the frequency spectrum based on the linear wave theory.For the first time,the distribution density function of wave periods determined by peaks is provided,and the conclusion isdrawn that the rate of change of wave surface elevation obeys the Rayleigh distribution.     

Outer wave number spectrum and statistical distribution of apparent wave number vector

Based on the ray theory and Longuet-Higgins’s linear model of sea waves, the joint distribution of wave envelope and apparent wave number vector is established. From the joint distribution, we define a new concept, namely the outer wave number spectrum, to describe the outer characteristics of ocean waves. The analytical form of the outer wave number spectrum, the probability distributions of the apparent wave number vector and its components are then derived. The outer wave number spectrum is compared with the inner wave number spectrum for the average status of wind-wave development corresponding to a peakness factor P = 3. Discussions on the similarity and difference between the outer wave number spectrum and inner one are also presented in the paper.     

气旋天气形势下石臼港近海的风浪特性

气旋天气过程引起的大浪是石臼港近海灾害性海浪之一。本文对1979年12月的一次气旋天气影响下的实测海浪进行了分析;论述了波要素的某些特点、波高与周期分布以及风与浪的关系;并讨论了风浪谱及其参量特征,得到了一个与实测谱接近的拟合谱形式。     

直立堤前波浪和波压力统计特征

基于1987年和1988年夏季在古镇口港直立堤前的实测资料,对波浪和波压力连续记录进行了统计分析和谱估计,研究了在堤前海浪不发生破碎条件下,堤前波浪和堤面不同高程上压力波的波面高度概率分布、堤前波浪波高和周期与波压力幅度和周期的概率分布特征、入射波行近提前过程中的谱变化及堤面不同高程上压力谱的变化特征。主要结果总结在本文最后一节。     

四层成层水域内波的研究

运用小振幅波理论研究了四层成层水域的内波运动，给出了四层成层状态下的各界面波波面位移和各层速度势的解析表达式及各层深度平均流速分布和内波波动频散关系，并与三层成层水域内波的解析结果进行了比较。     

大洋波浪特征：西太平洋波浪调查研究报告

本文分析了西太平洋实测的波高分布、同期分布、波高和周期的联合分布,以及波谱的分析。分析结果指出,大洋波浪的波高和周期都大于近海波浪的波高和周期。分布特征也不同于近海。波浪多属混合浪,会出现典型的双峰谱。     

层化流体中半板造波的内波解

为了形象地说明内波的传播模式,研究给出了内波水槽中由半板造波所形成的内波解。结合Ｖａｅｉｓａｅｌａｅ频率Ｎ（ｚ）＝ｃｏｎｓｔ和简化Ｈｏｌｍｂｏｅ两种密度剖面模式讨论了内波场的传播图案。在内波水槽中成功地形成了上述两种密度剖面,相应的实验印证了本文分析的正确性。     

嵊泗地区风浪分布及其时间变化分析

通过对嵊泗地区实测波浪资料的分析,探讨了嵊泗地区的风浪分布形式。并且依据1992年12月至2002年8月的TOPEX卫星高度计资料给出了本地区长期有效波高的时间变化,为该地区海洋减灾防灾和工程设计提供了科学依据。     

Modelling the long-term distribution of significant wave height with the Beta and Gamma models

The paper suggests modelling the long-term distribution of significant wave height with the Gamma, Beta of the first and second kind models. The three models are interrelated, flexible and cover the three different tail types of Extreme Value Theory. They can be used simultaneously as a means of assessing the uncertainty effects that result from choosing equally plausible models with different tail types. This procedure is intended for those applications that require the long-term distribution of significant wave height as input rather than the prediction of extreme values. The models are fitted to some significant wave data as an illustration. Details about maximum likelihood estimation are given in A.     

A Corrected Solid Boundary Treatment Method for Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics

Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics method (SPH) has a good adaptability for simulating of free surface flow problems. However, there are some shortcomings of SPH which are still in open discussion. This paper presents a corrected solid boundary handling method for weakly compressible SPH. This improved method is very helpful for numerical stability and pressure distribution. Compared with other solid boundary handling methods, this corrected method is simpler for virtual ghost particle interpolation and the ghost particle evaluation relationship is clearer. Several numerical tests are given, like dam breaking, solitary wave impact and sloshing tank waves. The results show that the corrected solid boundary processing method can recover the spurious oscillations of pressure distribution when simulating the problems with complex geometry boundary.     

Long-Term Joint Distribution of One-Tenth Large (or Significant) Wave Height with Average Period

- In this paper, by using the wave data from a few oceanographic observation stations in the coastal zone of the Yellow Sea, the East China Sea and the South China Sea, the long-term joint distribution of the one-tenth large (or significant) wave height with average period is studied. The statistical data demonstrate that the long- term distribution of the one- tenth wave height or average period fits the log-normal distribution, thus the joint distribution also fits the two-dimensional log-normal distribution. Then the conditional probability distribution of the average period is derived, and the range as well as the mode of the average wave period corresponding to a certain return period of wave height can be calculated easily.     

The difference between the joint probability distributions of apparent wave heights and periods and individual wave heights and periods

The joint distribution of wave heights and periods of individual waves is usually approximated by the joint distribution of apparent wave heights and periods. However there is difference between them. This difference is addressed and the theoretical joint distributions of apparent wave heights and periods due to Longuet-Higgins and Sun are modified to give more reasonable representations of the joint distribution of wave heights and periods of individual waves. The modification has overcome an inherent drawback of these joint PDFs that the mean wave period is infinite. A comparison is made between the modified formulae and the field data of Goda, which shows that the new formulae consist with the measurement better than their original counterparts.     

单晶固体中正电子波函数的计算

介绍了正电子波函数计算的两种基本方法——有限差分方法(FDM)与平面波方法(PW).并以单晶Si为例,计算出正电子的波函数,从而计算出正电子在Si中的密度分布;由该正电子密度,进一步计算出了正电子在Si中的体寿命.计算结果与我们最近的实验结果(220 ps)符合得很好.最后,探讨了这两种方法各自的优缺点.     

Bispectrum and asymmetry of wave shape

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响水近岸海域波浪特性研究

基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料，分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性，研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性，并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10~2.80 m之间，年平均值为0.56 m；最大波高的变化幅度在0.15~5.58 m之间，年平均值为0.93 m；平均波周期的变化范围为1.91~9.02 s，年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节，波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言，通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面，本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%，且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值，其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右，高频谱峰则出现在0.15~0.20 Hz之间，分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系，发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性，但受波浪浅水变形影响，各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。     

Weibull分布参数的粒子群算法估计

基于广西涠洲岛海洋监测站3个方向的年极值波高观测资料,在假设其服从Weibull分布的基础上,运用最小二乘法,矩估计法和最速下降法对Weibull分布的参数进行估计,同时引入粒子群算法确定Weibull分布的3个参数,对文中4种方法得出的拟合结果及运算效率进行比较分析,说明了粒子群算法在估计极值分布参数中的优势.     

三阶海浪波高分布及其应用

在三阶海浪非线性波高分布模式的基础上，引进描述分布函数结构形式的重要统计量，即概率分布的离差系数与偏差系数。给出这两个统计量与非线性控制参数之间的解析关系式，从而给出了反映风浪不同状态下的波高分布特征。与传统的瑞利分布相比，本文的结果有更广泛的实用意义。并把理论结果应用于黄河口波浪统计学的研究。