Parameters in wind-wave frequency spectra and their bearings on spectrum forms and growth

The spectrum variance m0, peak frequency ω0 and peakness factor p are expressed in terms of nondimensional fetch and duration by making use of relations which are derived through comparing and analyzing existing empirical formulas for the growth of significant wave height and period. The main features of spectrum growth as specified by these parameters agree with those of the JONS-WAP experiments. For given wind speed and fetch, the high frequency parts beyond the peaks of shallow water spectra almost coincide with that of the corresponding deep water spectrum, whereas the low frequency parts differ appreciably. The method developed in this paper predicts smaller significant wave height as well as smaller wave period for shallow water spectra in contrast to the theoretical result of Kitaigorodskii ef al, in which the peak frequency, and consequently the significant wave period, remains basically unchanged for different water depths. Spectra are further reduced to a form in which only significant wave h     

基于海面多普勒谱模型的海浪反演精度分析

Microwave remote sensing is one of the most useful methods for observing the ocean parameters. The Doppler frequency or interferometric phase of the radar echoes can be used for an ocean surface current speed retrieval,which is widely used in spaceborne and airborne radars. While the effect of the ocean currents and waves is interactional. It is impossible to retrieve the ocean surface current speed from Doppler frequency shift directly. In order to study the relationship between the ocean surface current speed and the Doppler frequency shift, a numerical ocean surface Doppler spectrum model is established and validated with a reference. The input parameters of ocean Doppler spectrum include an ocean wave elevation model, a directional distribution function, and wind speed and direction. The suitable ocean wave elevation spectrum and the directional distribution function are selected by comparing the ocean Doppler spectrum in C band with an empirical geophysical model function(CDOP). What is more, the error sensitivities of ocean surface current speed to the wind speed and direction are analyzed. All these simulations are in Ku band. The simulation results show that the ocean surface current speed error is sensitive to the wind speed and direction errors. With VV polarization, the ocean surface current speed error is about 0.15 m/s when the wind speed error is 2 m/s, and the ocean surface current speed error is smaller than 0.3 m/s when the wind direction error is within 20° in the cross wind direction.     

Numerical simulation for hydrodynamic characteristics of a bionic flapping hydrofoil

In order to study the propulsion mechanism of the bionic flapping hydrofoil (BFH), a 2-DoF (heave and pitch) motion model is formulated. The hydrodynamic performance of BFH with a series of kinematical parameters is explored via numerical simulation based on FLUENT. The calculated result is compared with the experimental value of MIT and that by the panel method. Moreover, the effect of inlet velocity, the angle of attack, the heave amplitude, the pitch amplitude , the phase difference, the heave biased angle, the pitch biased angle and the oscillating frequency are investigated. The study is useful for guiding the design of bionic underwater vehicle based on flapping propulsion. It is indicated that the optimal parameters combination is v=0.5m/s, θ0=40°.θ0=30°,Ψ=90°,Фbias=0°,θbias=0°and f=0.5Hz .     

Numerical Simulation for Hydrodynamic Characteristics of A Bionic Flapping Hydrofoil

In order to study the propulsion mechanism of bionic flapping hydrofoil (BFH), a 2-DoF (heave and pitch) motion model is formulated. The hydrodynamic performance of BFH with a series kinematical parameters is explored via numerical simulation based on FLUENT. The calculated result is compared with experimental value of MIT and that by the panel method. Moreover, the effect of inlet velocity, the angle of attack, the heave amplitude, the pitch amplitude, the phase difference, the heave biased angle, the pitch biased angle and the oscillating frequency are investigated. The study is useful for guiding the design of bionic underwater vehicle based on flapping propulsion. It is indicated that the optimal parameters combination is ν=0.5m/s, ?0=40°, θ0=30°,ψ=90°, ?bias=40°, θbias=30° and f=0.5Hz.     

CHGS method for numerical forecasting of typhoon waves——Ⅰ. Spectrum of waves in growing phase

Owing to the fact that the wind speed and direction of typhoon vary rapidly with time and space in typhoon fetch; the nearer to the typhoon eye the greater the wind velocity, and the shorter the wind fetch the smaller the wind time,as a result,the more difficult for the wind wave to fully grow. Hence.in typhoon wave numerical calculation it is impossible to use the model for a fully grown wave spectrum. Lately, the author et at. presented a CHGS method for numerical forecasting of typhoon waves, where a model for the growing wave spectrum was set up (see Eq. (2) in the text). The model involves a parameter indicating the growing degree of wind wave, i. e. ,the mean wave age β. When βvalue is small, the wave energy is chiefly concentrated near the peak frequency, so that the spectral peak gets high and steep; with the increase of β the spectral shape gradually gets lower and gentler; when β=Ⅰ, the wave fully grows, the growing spectrum becomes a fully grown P-M spectrum. The model also shows a spect     

Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water

The method developed by Wen et al. (1988 a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well.     

Dependence of sea surface drag coefficient on wind-wave parameters

The relationships between sea surface roughness z 0 and wind-wave parameters are analyzed,and spurious self-correlations are found in all of the parameterization schemes.Sea surface drag coefficient C D is fitted by four wind-wave parameters that are wave age,wave steepness,windsea Reynolds number R B and R H ,and the analyzed data are divided into laboratory,field and combined data sets respectively.Comparison and analysis of dependence of C D on wind-wave parameters show that R B can fit the C D most appropriately.Wave age and wave steepness are not suitable to fit C D with a narrow range data set.When the value of wave age has a board range,R H is not suitable to fit C D either.Three relationships between C D and R B are integrated into the bulk algorithm COARE to calculate the observational friction velocity,and the results show that the relationship between C D and R B which is fitted with field data set can describe the momentum transfer in the open ocean,under low-moderate wind speed condition,most appropriately.     

Theoretical solution for wave diffraction by wedge or corner with arbitrary reflection characteristics

An exact analytic solution for wave diffraction by wedge or corner with arbitrary angle (rπ) and reflection coefficients (R0 and Rr) is presented in this paper. It is expressed in two forms-series and integral representations, corresponding recurrence relation and asymptotic expressions are also derived. The solution is simplified for some special cases of rπ. For Rr= R0,r= 1/N and Rr≠R0,r = 1/2N, the solution can be reduced to linear superpositions of incident and partially reflected waves, hence a nonlinear solution of forth order for this problem can be obtained by using the author's theory of nonlinear interaction among gravity surface waves. The given solution is related to inhomogeneous Robin boundary conditions, which include the Neumann boundary conditions usually accepted in wave diffraction theory.     

Spectral Characteristics of Wind-Waves in Laboratory

Spectral characteristics of wind-generated waves in labortaory are presented on the basis of asystematic measurement in a large-scale wind-wave channel and compared with those in the field.A ma-rked characteristics of the measured spetra is the existence of secondary spectrum-peak.The dependenceof spectral peak-frequency,peak-value and zeroth-order moment on wind speed and fetch are presentedand found roughly similar to those in the field represented by the JONSWAP spectrum,regardless of thedifferences in coefficient.The spectral slope β at high-frequencies are found somewhat greater than thoseof field wind-waves in both cases of deep and shallow waters.Except for the low-frequency part,the spec-tral forms measured in different wind conditions are similar and fit for the JONSWAP spectrum with γ=6andβ=5.5.Some relevant problems are discussed.     

A Model of Wave Spectrum in Shallow Water

By using the shallow water wave data continuously recorded in the Bohai Sea, Huanghai Sea, East China sea and South China Sea. a model of wave spectrum in shallow water is developed with three parameters—average wave height, average period and relative depth—on the basis of the principle of the spectrum pattern simularity and the method of parameterization. The magnitude of frequency index in the high frequency     

Estimation of JONSWAP Spectral Parameters by Using Measured Wave Data

- This paper presents the method of determining JONSWAP spectrum by using measured wave data. If Hs, Tz and Tc are the measured significant wave height, average zero-up crossing wave period and average period between wave crests respectively and let y = T Z / TC; this paper provides equation to solve y fromf(y,y) = 0. From the solutions of this equation and by using LSM, the expression relating y as a function of y (for 2.54相似文献   

Impact Pressure of Incident Regular Waves and Irregular Waves on the Subfaee of Open-Piled Structures

This paper presents the results of comparison of impact pressures on own-plied structures induced by regular waves and irregular waves in a laboratory channel. Regular waves with wave heights ranging from 0.1 - 0.2 m and periods ranging from 1.0- 2.0 s are tested. The target spectrum for the irregular wave is JONSWAP spectrum. Irregular waves with siguifieant wave heights in the range of 0.10 - 0.25 m and peak periods in the range of 1 . 0 -2.0 s are tested. The relative clearance s/H1/3(H) is between - 0.1 and 0.4, s being the subtace level of structure model above the still water level. Time series of impact pressure are analyzed to indicate whether the properly of impact pressures induced by the regular wave significantly deviates from that by the irregular wave. The distribution of the impact pressure along the underside of the structure is compared for different types of incident waves. The effects of wave parameters, structure dimension and structure clearance on the impact pressure are also diseussed.     

A Forced System of Two Cylinders with Various Spacings

The spectrum characteristics and wake structures for a circular cylinder oscillating in a wake are investigated by use of the currently modified virtual boundary method. A forced system of two cylinders with a small spacing ( the downstream one is made to oscillate in the transverse direction) is studied and interesting flow characteristics are observed. A vortex switch and the change of vortex modes (between 2S mode and 2P mode) are observed in the “lock-in“ region. Vortex bands are formed and lost with the increasing excitation frequency. Information concerning saddle points in the flow field is obtained for different excitation frequencies. For a forced system of two cylinders with a large spacing, the upstream cylinder sheds vortexes because there is no downstream cylinder oscillating in the wake. No distinct “lock-in“ response is found for the downstream cylinder.     

A New Maximum Entropy Probability Function for the Surface Elevation of Nonlinear Sea Waves

Based on the maximum entropy principle a new probability density function （PDF） f（x） for the surface elevation of nonlinear sea waves, X, is derived through performing a coordinate transform of X and solving a variation problem subject to three constraint conditions of f（ x ）. Compared with the maximum entropy PDFs presented previously, the new PDF has the following merits： （1） it has four parameters to be determined and hence can give more refined fit to observed data and has wider suitability for nonlinear waves in different conditions; （2） these parameters are expressed in terms of distribution moments of X in a relatively simple form and hence are easy to be determined from observed data; （3） the PDF is free of the restriction of weak nonlinearity and possible to be used for sea waves in complicated conditions, such as those in shallow waters with complicated topography; and （4） the PDF is simple in form and hence convenient for theoretical and practical uses. l.aboratory wind-wave experiments have been conducted to test the competence of the new PDF for the surface elevation of nonlinear waves. The experimental results manifest that the new PDF gives somewhat better fit to the laboratory wind-wave data than the well-known Gram-Charlier PDF and beta PDF.     

Improvement and application of a saturation based wave dissipation function in SWAN model

Wave dissipation characteristics in SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) model are investigated through numerical experiments. It is found that neither the fully developed integral parameters of wind waves (significant wave height and peak frequency) nor the high frequency spectral tail can be well reproduced by the default wave dissipation source terms. A new spectral dissipation source term is proposed, which comprises saturation based dissipation above two times of peak frequency and improved whitecapping dissipation at lower frequency spectrum. The reciprocal wave age (u /c p ) is involved into the whitecapping model to adjust dissipation rate at different wind speed. The Phillips higher frequency saturation parameter in the saturation-based dissipation is no longer taken as a constant, but varies with wave age. Numerical validations demonstrate that both the wind wave generation process and higher frequency spectrum of wind waves can be well simulated by the new wave dissipation term.     

Study on Sound-Speed Dispersion in A Sandy Sediment at Frequency Ranges of 0.5-3 kHz and 90-170 kHz

In order to study the properties of sound-speed dispersion in a sandy sediment, the sound speed was measured both at high frequency (90-170 kHz) and low frequency (0.5-3 kHz) in laboratory environments. At high frequency, a sampling measurement was conducted with boiled and uncooked sand samples collected from the bottom of a large water tank. The sound speed was directly obtained through transmission measurement using single source and single hydrophone. At low frequency, an in situ measurement was conducted in the water tank, where the sandy sediment had been homogeneously paved at the bottom for a long time. The sound speed was indirectly inverted according to the traveling time of signals received by three buried hydrophones in the sandy sediment and the geometry in experiment. The results show that the mean sound speed is approximate 1710-1713 m/s with a weak positive gradient in the sand sample after being boiled (as a method to eliminate bubbles as much as possible) at high frequency, which agrees well with the predictions of Biot theory, the effective density fluid model (EDFM) and Buckingham''s theory. However, the sound speed in the uncooked sandy sediment obviously decreases (about 80%) both at high frequency and low frequency due to plenty of bubbles in existence. And the sound-speed dispersion performs a weak negative gradient at high frequency. Finally, a water-unsaturated Biot model is presented for trying to explain the decrease of sound speed in the sandy sediment with plenty of bubbles.     

基于SVM回归模型的SAR图像有效波高估测

A new method for estimating significant wave height(SWH) from advanced synthetic aperture radar(ASAR) wave mode data based on a support vector machine(SVM) regression model is presented. The model is established based on a nonlinear relationship between σ0, the variance of the normalized SAR image, SAR image spectrum spectral decomposition parameters and ocean wave SWH. The feature parameters of the SAR images are the input parameters of the SVM regression model, and the SWH provided by the European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF) is the output parameter. On the basis of ASAR matching data set, a particle swarm optimization(PSO) algorithm is used to optimize the input kernel parameters of the SVM regression model and to establish the SVM model. The SWH estimation results yielded by this model are compared with the ECMWF reanalysis data and the buoy data. The RMSE values of the SWH are 0.34 and 0.48 m, and the correlation coefficient is 0.94 and 0.81, respectively. The results show that the SVM regression model is an effective method for estimating the SWH from the SAR data. The advantage of this model is that SAR data may serve as an independent data source for retrieving the SWH, which can avoid the complicated solution process associated with wave spectra.     

Dynamic Behaviors of A Marine Riser Under Two Different Frequency Parametric Excitations

The marine risers are often subjected to parametric excitations from the fluctuation top tension. The top tension on the riser may fluctuate with multiple frequencies caused by irregular waves. In this paper, the influence between different frequency components in the top tension on the riser system is theoretically simulated and analyzed. With the Euler-Bernoulli beam theory, a dynamic model for the vibrations of the riser is established. The top tension is set as fluctuating with time and it has two different frequencies. The influences from the fluctuation amplitudes, circular frequencies and phase angles of these frequency components on the riser system are analyzed in detail. When these two frequencies are fluctuating in the stable regions, the riser system may become unstable because ω_1+ω_2≈2Ωn. The fluctuation amplitudes of these frequencies have little effect on the components of the vibration frequencies of the riser. For different phase angles, the stability and dynamic behaviors of the riser would be different.     

Numerical modeling on hydrodynamic performance of a bottom-hinged flap wave energy converter

The hydrodynamic performance of a bottom-hinged flap wave energy converter(WEC) is investigated through a frequency domain numerical model.The numerical model is verified through a two-dimensional analytic solution,as well as the qualitative analysis on the dynamic response of avibrating system.The concept of "optimum density" of the bottom-hinged flap is proposed,and its analytic expression is derived as well.The frequency interval in which the optimum density exists is also obtained.The analytic expression of the optimum linear damping coefficient is obtained by a bottom-hinged WEC.Some basic dynamic properties involving natural period,excitation moment,pitch amplitude,and optimum damping coefficient are analyzed and discussed in detail.In addition,this paper highlights the analysis of effects on the conversion performance of the device exerted by some important parameters.The results indicate that "the optimum linear damping period of 5.0 s" is the most ideal option in the short wave sea states with the wave period below 6.0 s.Shallow water depth,large flap thickness and low flap density are advised in the practical design of the device in short wave sea states in order to maximize power capture.In the sea state with water depth of 5.0 m and wave period of 5.0 s,the results of parametric optimization suggest a flap with the width of 8.0 m,thickness of 1.6 m,and with the density as little as possible when the optimum power take-off(PTO) damping coefficient is adopted.     

Extreme Wave Simulation with Iterative Adaptive Approach in Numerical Wave Flume

Extreme wave is highly nonlinear and may occur due to diverse reasons unexpectedly.The simulated results of extreme wave based on wave focusing,which were generated using high order spectrum method,are presented.The influences of the steepness,frequency bandwidth as well as frequency spectrum on focusing position shift were examined,showing that they can affect the wave focusing significantly.Hence,controlled accurate generation of extreme wave at a predefined position in wave flume is a difficult but important task.In this paper,an iterative adaptive approach is applied using linear dispersion theory to optimize the control signal of the wavemaker.The performance of the proposed approach is numerically investigated for a wide variety of scenarios.The results demonstrate that this approach can reproduce accurate wave focusing effectively.