由模拟波面分析双峰谱型海浪的统计特征

采用目前国际上最新的随机波分析方法,由协方差矩阵的循环嵌套技术,对美国国家浮标44008站2002年6月一典型的双峰海浪谱资料进行谱分析.以实测平均谱为靶谱,对随机波面进行模拟.得到模拟波面估计谱与实测谱极为相近,谱峰及谱峰频率都基本一致.说明利用模拟波面研究海浪具有代表性,它可以反映实测海浪的特征.利用实测海浪谱密度,统计波特征量的周期概率分布,得到理论周期概率密度与估计周期概率密度分布相符较好,且与模拟波面的波周期分布也较好的一致.利用Longuet-Higgins(1983)模型计算了波高-周期联合概率密度分布.得到变换高斯过程计算的波高与周期联合分布与实测情况基本相同,更好地描述了波高-周期联合概率密度分布.     

由模拟波面统计分析波高－周期联合分布

阐述以实测或拟合海浪谱为靶谱，用等能量分割法作波面数值模拟，从而利用模拟波面统计分析波高（Ｈ）－周期（Ｔ）联合分布。对波候的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布、长时段海浪连续记录的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布以及风浪、涌浪和混合浪的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布进行了讨论。结果表明，只要已知特征波高和周期，就可反演出模拟波面，进而估测Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布情况，这对了解与各种特征波高对应的周期问题及在海洋工程应用上有一定的参考意义。     

由模拟波面统计分析波高—周期联合分布

阐述以实测或拟合海浪谱为靶谱，用等能量分割法作波面数值模拟，从而利用模拟波面统计分析波高（Ｈ）－周期（Ｔ）联合分布，对波候的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布，长时段海浪连续记录的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布以及风浪，涌浪和混合浪的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布进行了讨论，结果表明，只要已知特征波高和周期，就可反演出模拟波面，进而估测Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布情况，这对了解与各种特征波高对应的周期问题及在海洋工程应用上有一定的参考意义。     

双峰谱型海浪的统计性质

本文利用收集到的实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料,分析讨论了双峰谱形下波高、周期的统计分布,以及波高与周期联合分布及混合浪的有效波高和有效波周期的计算问题,得到若干重要结论.     

双峰谱型海浪波高与周期的联合分布

本文利用实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料，以３种典型谱型分别讨论了双峰谱型下波高与周期的联合分布，并与理论结果进行了比较。     

双峰谱型海浪波高与周期的联合分布

本文利用实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料，以３种典型谱型分别讨论了双峰谱型下波高与周期的联合分布，并与理论结果进行了比较。     

北礵岛附近海域夏季海浪波高-周期分布特征

利用2016年夏季(6-8月)北礵岛附近海域的实测波浪数据,统计分析该海域海浪的波高特征值,探讨各特征波高与平均波高及有效波高之间的关系,找出较适用于该海域的波高分布、周期分布以及波高和周期的联合分布.结果表明:该海域有效波高的平均值为0.73 m,最大值为2.96 m,平均周期的平均值为4.50 s;各特征波高与平均...     

挪威北海最大波高的影响分析

最大波高作为表征海浪强度和危险程度的重要指标,既是设计波浪推算的依据,同时又对海洋预报有重要的作用。基于瑞利分布得到的最大波高公式,不能体现波陡和谱宽度等非线性因素的影响,由该公式得出的理论最大波高与实际观测值有偏差。采用相位平均方法的海浪数值模型分析,可以根据海浪谱计算得到有效波高,却无法给出最大波高。本文通过分析挪威北海定点十年的船测波面资料,得出波浪谱,进一步推算出波陡和谱宽度对最大波高的影响。首先提出一种实测波数的替代方式,然后分别研究波陡和谱宽度对最大波高的影响。研究发现随着波陡和谱宽度的增加,Hmax/Hs逐渐减小,并拟合出最大波高与Cartwright谱宽度参数的公式,得到较好的拟合效果。     

西太平洋赤道海域秋季混合浪特征及其谱拟合

根据西太平洋赤道海域秋季实测海浪资料,分析了该海域的混合浪特征,拟合出混合浪的波高、周期分布函数及波高-周期联合分布函数。应用文圣常等提出的深水风浪谱公式,对其稍作改变后拟合涌浪谱;应用他们的改进理论风浪谱公式拟合风浪谱,两分谱公式叠加为混合海浪谱公式。对混合海浪谱的拟合表明,拟合效果良好。     

偏态海浪过程的数值模拟

本文对Polge等人提出的“相关传递法”作了进一步数学分析,论证了其成立条件和适用范围.考虑波面偏度对谱形的影响,将模拟的靶谱加以改造,建立了“准相关传递法”.在同时考虑波剖面高度分布和谱两个条件下,对偏态海浪过程进行数值模拟.就模拟结果,分析了以Weibull分布拟合波高分布时,其波面偏度对波高分布中两参数的影响. 文中选用1980-1981年在胶州湾观测的波浪资料对“准相关传递法”加以检验和比较.结果表明:就波高分布、波面极大(小)值分布而言,准相关传递法明显优于传统的线性叠加法,比线性叠加法模拟的结果更接近于实测资料.     

Modelling of the spatial evolution of extreme laboratory wave crest and trough heights with the NLS-type equations

The statistical properties of long-crested nonlinear wave time series measured in an offshore basin have been analyzed in different aspects such as the distributions of surface elevation, wave crest, wave trough, and wave period. Comparison with linear, second-order and third-order theoretical models indicates that although bound wave effects also contribute to the deviation from a Gaussian process, it is the modulational instability that primarily determines the discrepancy in the evolution process in the presence of strong nonlinearity. Interestingly enough, wave crest is more sensitive to the quasi-resonant four-wave interaction effect than wave trough and the scaled maximal wave crest presents a linear regression model with the coefficient of kurtosis. Meanwhile, the estimation of the observed statistical properties is reconstructed on the basis of an ensemble of 100 wave series simulated by the NLS-type equations and compared favourably with the experimental results in most cases. Moreover, with the increased third-order nonlinear effect the difference between NLS and Dysthe simulations is enlarged and mainly reflected on the distribution of wave crest.     

斜坡堤典型胸墙波浪力的影响因素

为探求斜坡堤典型胸墙迎浪面所受波浪力大小的影响因素,设计前仰式、深弧式、后仰式和直立式4种结构型式胸墙进行相关的物理模型试验。通过在典型胸墙迎浪面间隔布置压力测点,获取所受波浪压力,并将其进行积分求和,得到胸墙所受波浪力,进而讨论相对波高、相对波长、斜坡坡度和胸墙结构型式对波浪力的影响。结果表明,相对波高与相对波长对胸墙所受波浪力影响显著;波浪力随着相对波高的增大而增大,随着相对波长的增大呈现先增大、后减小、再增大的变化趋势;波浪力随着斜坡坡度的增大而减小。斜坡堤弧形胸墙所受波浪力明显大于直立式胸墙所受波浪力;在斜坡堤弧形胸墙中,前仰式胸墙受力较其余两种型式胸墙受力小。研究结果将加深波浪对斜坡堤胸墙作用力的理解,为后续工程设计提供理论指导。     

三维波峰的数值模拟

给出了三维波峰的定义,描述了波峰临界值的确定过程,分析了三维随机海浪的方向谱和三维随机海浪的数学描述,在MATLAB环境下设计了随机海面波峰的数值模拟程序,并给出了深水波峰的三维空间模型及其在不同方向传播参数和不同方向函数下平面分布的变化。     

Statistics of Wave Crest Characteristics

The statistical distribution of wave crest characteristics such as crest length, crest height, joint crest height and length are analyzed based on numerical simulation of 3-D random waves. The effects of directional functions and wave crest defining methods on crest characteristics are also studied.The results show that wave crests are no longer uniform and continuous in directional wave field; the distribution of crest length is obviously influenced by the directional function; the statistics of crest characteristics obtained by the two different methods are almost the same.     

斜坡堤典型胸墙波浪力影响因素的试验与分析

为探求斜坡堤典型胸墙迎浪面所受波浪力大小的影响因素,设计前仰式、深弧式、后仰式和直立式四种结构型式胸墙进行相关的物理模型试验。通过在典型胸墙迎浪面间隔布置压力测点获取所受波浪压力,并将其进行积分求和得到胸墙所受波浪力,进而讨论相对波高(H/d)、相对波长(L/d)、斜坡坡度和胸墙结构型式对波浪力的影响。试验结果表明：相对波高与相对波长对胸墙所受波浪力影响显著。波浪力随着相对波高的增大而增大,随着相对波长的增大呈现先增大—后减小—再增大的变化趋势。波浪力随着斜坡坡度的增大而减小。斜坡堤弧形胸墙所受波浪力明显大于直立式胸墙所受波浪力;在斜坡堤弧形胸墙中,前仰式胸墙受力较其余两种型式胸墙受力小。研究结果将加深波浪对斜坡堤胸墙作用力的理解,为后续工程设计提供理论指导。     

Nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves

This article concerns the calculation of nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves. The calculations have been carried out by incorporating a second order nonlinear wave model into an asymptotic analysis method. This is a new approach to the calculation of wave crest distribution, and, as all of the calculations are performed in the probability domain, avoids the need for long time-domain simulations. The accuracy and efficiency of this new approach for calculating the wave crest distribution are validated by comparing the results predicted using it with those predicted by using the Monte Carlo simulation (MCS) method, by using a previous Transformed Rayleigh method, by using some existing wave crest distribution formulas, and by using the measured surface elevation data at the Poseidon platform in the Japan Sea.     

The distribution of zero-crossing wave heights and periods in a stationary sea state

Existing theoretical distributions of wave height and period do not reflect measured joint distributions from field data. A simulation methodology is introduced to retain the essential features of the theoretical background in Gaussian random noise but to avoid further compromising assumptions in the interpretation of height and period in the amplitude domain. A joint distribution can be associated directly with an empirical or measured variance spectrum. Spectral shape appears to dominate the detail of predicted joint distributions. There is generally a much sharper decay in probability levels at higher periods than is predicted by theoretical models. For Jonswap spectra, there is a dominant central ridge and a distinct bimodal structure in the joint distribution, features that are not evident in symmetric Gaussian spectral forms. The wave height distributions for Jonswap spectra differ little from the Rayleigh distribution, except at extreme wave heights where Rayleigh overpredicts. The period distributions are strongly sensitive to spectral shape. In the conditional distribution of periods, given the height, the asymptotic median period at extreme wave heights is significantly longer than the mean period for Jonswap spectra, but not for symmetric Gaussian forms.     

波峰特征量的统计分布

本文在作者另文数值模拟得到的三维海浪基础上 ,进一步分析给出了三维波峰长度、高度及方向角度等特征量的统计分布。发现考虑海浪的方向性质后波峰分布不再是均匀连续的 ;波峰的长度分布受方向函数影响 ,方向分布越宽 ,波峰的平均长度越短 ,波峰的方向角分布越宽 ;波峰高度和长度在波峰高度较小时有很大的相关性 ,而在波峰高度很大时无关     

Wave crest and trough distributions in a broad-banded directional wave field

It is well established that the modulational instability enhances the probability of occurrence for extreme events in long crested wave fields. Recent studies, however, have shown that the coexistence of directional wave components can reduce the effects related to the modulational instability. Here, numerical simulations of the Euler equations are used to investigate whether the modulational instability may produce significant deviations from second-order statistical properties of surface gravity waves when short crestness (i.e., directionality) is accounted for. The case of a broad-banded directional wave field (i.e. wind sea) is investigated. The analysis is concentrated on the wave crest and trough distribution. For completeness a comparison with a unidirectional wave field is presented also. Results will show that the distributions based on second-order theory provide a good estimate for the simulated crest and trough height also at low probability levels.