WAVECALC: an Excel-VBA spreadsheet to model the characteristics of fully developed waves and their influence on bottom sediments in different water depths

The generation and growth of waves in deep water is controlled by winds blowing over the sea surface. In fully developed sea states, where winds and waves are in equilibrium, wave parameters may be calculated directly from the wind velocity. We provide an Excel spreadsheet to compute the wave period, length, height and celerity, as well as horizontal and vertical particle velocities for any water depth, bottom slope, and distance below the reference water level. The wave profile and propagation can also be visualized for any water depth, modeling the sea surface change from sinusoidal to trochoidal and finally cnoidal profiles into shallow water. Bedload entrainment is estimated under both the wave crest and the trough, using the horizontal water particle velocity at the top of the boundary layer. The calculations are programmed in an Excel file called WAVECALC, which is available online to authorized users. Although many of the recently published formulas are based on theoretical arguments, the values agree well with several existing theories and limited field and laboratory observations. WAVECALC is a user-friendly program intended for sedimentologists, coastal engineers and oceanographers, as well as marine ecologists and biologists. It provides a rapid means to calculate many wave characteristics required in coastal and shallow marine studies, and can also serve as an educational tool.     

Static stability of submerged partial revetment structures under regular and irregular waves

Physical models of submerged partial revetment structures were built on natural beach sand with a diameter of 0.35 mm and specific gravity of 2.63. The armor units, the diameter and specific gravity of which varied in the range of 8.5–67.95 mm and 1.81–2.77 respectively, were placed only on wave breaking areas. A series of experiments has been conducted on the conditions of different armor units and different wave characteristics using regular waves and irregular waves. Based on the experimental data, the effects of wave height, wave period, diameter and specific gravity of armor units, water depth in the channel, and wave types on static damage of given structures are assessed. Some empirical formulas have been suggested through regression analysis to describe static stability and stability number of submerged partial revetment structures under pure regular waves, pure irregular waves, and regular–irregular waves. The suggested formulas compared with Van der Meer’s (1988) formulas and some differences have occurred because of differences among revetment types and test conditions; therefore, proposed formulas give reasonable results for the test conditions used.     

拉格朗日描述下三层流体系统中界面内波的三阶渐近解

在流体力学中，描述流体运动有Lagrange方法和Euler方法.Euler方法是通过观测通过空间各固定位置点处流体质点的运动行为来描述流体运动规律，而Lagrange方法是跟踪各个流体质点，通过观测它们在时空运动中所走过的路径来描述流体的运动规律.在数学处理上，Euler方法较Lagrange方法简单，但Lagrange方法可以完全描述流体运动的整个流场的所有特性，而Euler方法却无法描述每个流体质点的运动轨迹.本文，我们研究具有刚性边界的三层流体系统中的界面内波，其中上层流体的密度比下层流体的密度大.通过在界面处引入朗格朗日匹配条件并使用微扰法得到了拉格朗日描述下的界面内波的一阶解、二阶解及三阶解，给出了质量输运速度、波频率、平均水平和质点运动轨迹的解.结果表明对于质量输运速度、波频率、平均水平和质点运动轨迹在界面处会有不连续性，但是我们发现在满足一定的三层流体水深比和密度比条件时这种不连续性将会消失.     

南海南部海域岛礁区海底珊瑚砂声速影响因素的初步研究

通过对南海南部海域岛礁区科学考察数据资料的分析研究,得出了岛礁区海底珊瑚砂的纵波声速随孔隙度、含水量增大而减小,以及声速随中值粒径、湿密度增大而增大的统计结果,并在Biot和Wyllie的松散饱和水沉积物声速理论公式与模型基础上,解释了物理力学因素对海底珊瑚砂声速的影响机制,阐明了固相因素和液相因素的强弱变化引起声速增大或减小的理论原因,分析了各种声速经验公式在海底珊瑚砂声速估算上的精度差异,得出了有必要建立包括海底珊瑚砂在内的单一类型声速经验公式的初步结论。     

Parameterization and simulation of near bed orbital velocities under irregular waves in shallow water

A set of empirical formulations is derived that describe important wave properties in shallow water as functions of commonly used parameters such as wave height, wave period, local water depth and local bed slope. These wave properties include time varying near-bed orbital velocities and statistical properties such as the distribution of wave height and wave period. Empirical expressions of characteristic wave parameters are derived on the basis of extensive analysis of field data using recently developed evolutionary algorithms. The field data covered a wide range of wave conditions, though there were few conditions with wave periods greater than 15 s. Comparison with field measurements showed good agreement both on a time scale of a single wave period as well as time averaged velocity moments.     

Effect of a submerged plate on the near-bed dynamics underincoming waves in deep water conditions

It is well known that wave induced bottom oscillations become more and more negligible when the water depth exceeds half the wavelength of the surface gravity wave. However, it was experimentally demonstrated for regular waves that the bottom pressure oscillations at both first and second wave harmonic frequencies could be significant even for incoming waves propagating in deep water condition in the presence of a submerged plate [16]. For a water depth h of about the wavelength of the wave, measurements under the plate (depth immersion of top of plate h/6, length h/2) have shown bottom pressure variations at the wave frequency, up to thirty times larger than the pressure expected in the absence of the plate. In this paper, not only regular but also irregular wave are studied together with wave following current conditions. This behavior is numerically verified by use of a classical linear theory of waves. The wave bottom effect is explained through the role of evanescent modes and horizontally oscillating water column under the plate which still exist whatever the water depth. Such a model, which allows the calculation of the velocity fields, has shown that not only the bottom pressure but also the near bed fluid velocity are enhanced. Two maxima are observed on both sides of the location of the plate, at a distance of the plate increasing with the water depth. The possible impact of such near bed dynamics is then discussed for field conditions thanks to a scaling based on a Froude similarity. It is demonstrated that these structures may have a significant impact at the sea bed even in very deep water conditions, possibly enhanced in the presence of current.     

海底沉积物纵波波速与物理-力学性质的理论关系和比较

本文提出以密度变化比和等效弹性模量变化比为参数描述海底沉积物纵波波速,得到密度变化比是由孔隙率、海水密度和海底沉积物固相密度构成的复合参数,建立了以复合参数和等效弹性模量变化比为变量的泰勒多项式海底沉积物纵波波速公式。基于单因素分析法得出纵波波速可表示为参考声速与调制函数的乘积,沉积物的参考声速由海底底质物理性质确定,建立了复合参数-声速的近似理论模型。对该理论模型与现有的主要纵波波速经验公式的分析结果表明,孔隙率-纵波波速经验公式只是参考声速不同,但调制函数是互相等效的,验证了本文海底沉积物纵波波速理论关系的有效性。     

受控三轴应力-应变下沉积物声速与物理力学性质的关系

对南海某海域深度100～400 m的海底浅层（约2 m埋深范围）沉积物柱状样在接近海底水压力下进行三轴应变-声学同步测量,结果表明沉积物纵波声速有两个特征:（1）从应变过程开始到结束,沉积物纵波声速不断变化;（2）平均声速随着平均静弹性模量的增加,由大变小又由小变大,存在声速最小值。这些结果与海底浅表层沉积物的物理力学性质、围压、颗粒的结合状态改变有关。此外,沉积物动弹性模量和孔隙度呈良好的负相关性,这与孔隙度增大含水量增大有关;动弹性模量是静弹性模量的10～100倍,这主要与三轴应变试验的应变数量级与声波振动产生的应变数量级的差异大有关。采用本论文实验测量的数据分别建立了双复合参数-声速和孔隙度-声速经验公式,分析结果表明双复合参数-声速公式声速预报误差约是孔隙度-声速公式的1/4,表明双复合参数-声速公式更加有效。     

Experimental study of three-dimensional breaking wave kinematics

Particle image velocimetry has been used to examine three-dimensional breaking wave kinematics. Two cases of wave breaking were studied. In the first case, the wave field contains a single frequency with a uniform angular spreading within a given range {{ — , .}}. The wave field of the second case consists of a number of frequencies with a uniform angular spreading applied to each frequency. In both cases, the waves are designed such that the wave energy is focused at a given point. The degree of angular spreading has been found to have great effects on the breaking characteristics and kinematics. Two types of breaker were observed, the first being plunging and the second being spilling. Increasing the angular spreading had the effect of making the velocities within the extreme waves larger. The ratio of the crest velocity to the breaking wave speed was approximately unity under both single and multiple frequency conditions, regardless of the angular spreading.     

单突堤后的波浪绕射

波浪绕射现象是确定港域掩护状况的主要因素,在设计港口防波堤工程时必须予以考虑,以便根据港口使用要求,选择最佳的外堤布置方案,确保船舶作业安全并节省工程投资。防波堤工程可有各种不同布局,其中最常见的一种为单突堤。其它如岛堤、双突堤,从计算堤内水域波况的观点着眼,在一定条件下其性质亦属于单突堤一类。因此,研究单突堤后的波浪绕射规律具有较普遍的实际意义。     

深远海声速资料对比及校正方法研究

为准确获取深远海海洋声速资料,充分了解深水声速规律,选取了西太地区两个水深超过5000m的S1和S2站位的声速资料为研究对象,以SVP(声速剖面仪)实测资料为参考标准,通过对CTD资料利用Chen-Millero、Del-Grosso以及Wilson的3种经验公式计算的声速与SVP资料进行对比分析,得出Del-Grosso经验公式计算的声速误差最小。为进一步提高声速资料精度,对Del-Grosso公式进行修正,并利用另外3个站位数据进行验证,发现利用校正后的公式计算的声速资料精度明显提升,这为其他深远海区利用CTD或其他温盐深资料获取高精度声速资料提供参考。     

A Practical bi-parameter formula of gas transfer velocity depending on wave states

The parameter that describes the kinetics of the air-sea exchange of a poorly soluble gas is the gas transfer velocity which is often parameterized as a function of wind speed. Both theoretical and experimental studies suggest that wind waves and their breaking can significantly enhance the gas exchange at the air-sea interface. A relationship between gas transfer velocity and a turbulent Reynolds number related to wind waves and their breaking is proposed based on field observations and drag coefficient formulation. The proposed relationship can be further simplified as a function of the product of wind speed and significant wave height. It is shown that this bi-parameter formula agrees quantitatively with the wind speed based parameterizations under certain wave age conditions. The new gas transfer velocity attains its maximum under fully developed wave fields, in which it is roughly dependent on the square of wind speed. This study provides a practical approach to quantitatively determine the effect of waves on the estimation of air-sea gas fluxes with routine observational data.     

Generating interface waves using a freely falling, instrumentedsource

In recent years, interface waves such as the Scholte wave have become important tools in the study of the geoacoustic properties of near-bottom seafloor sediments. Traditionally, these waves have been generated by explosive or pneumatic sources deployed at or near the seafloor and monitored by ocean-bottom seismographs or geophone arrays. While these sources generate the requisite interface waves, they also produce higher frequency compressional waves in the water and sediment that tend to contaminate the surface wave and make inversion of the data difficult in the near field. In this paper, a new source consisting of a freely falling projectile instrumented with an accelerometer is described. When the projectile impacts the bottom, the exact time history of the vertical force applied to the sediment is known and therefore may be convolved with the transfer function of a sediment geoacoustic model to produce accurate synthetic seismograms. Moreover, the vertical force applied to the seafloor is very efficient in generating surface wave motion while producing very little compressional wave energy so that the near-field signals are much more easily analyzed. An example of the use of the new source is presented including inversion of the received signals to obtain shear-wave velocity and attenuation as a function of depth in the near bottom sediments at a shallow-water site     

Design Method of Armour Grate Plates for Sloping Breakwaters

- Laboratory tests have been conducted on the basis of theoretical analysis of stability of armour Grate Plates with reference to 20 structures. Some empirical formulas of statility thickness of Grate Plates have been obtained in consideration of the effects of water depth in front of the structures and critical wave period. The test results have been compared with field data.     

珠江口外海水声速经验正交函数分析

利用珠江口外海多年的水文观测资料,采用经验正交函数(EOF)法分别对该海域表层及21°N垂向断面的声速及其距平值进行了分析.结果表明该海域表层声速自西北向东南增大,21°N垂向断面声速随水深的增加而减小.EOF法分析声速及其距平值得出的第一个特征分量在该区域表层和21°N垂向断面上都是最重要的.声速季节变化显著:自上一年的10月开始减小,2或3月减到最小值后开始增大,7~9月增至最大值,有显著的年变化周期.声速也似有年际变化:1981年冬季声速开始减小,一直持续到1982年秋季,1982年冬季开始呈增大的趋势.声速的年际变化强度随着水深的增加而减弱.     

潮流作用下海洋平台桩基冲刷过程及冲刷深度计算

对埕岛油田典型平台周边多年监测所得的水深资料进行了分析研究,探讨了平台在潮流作用下的桩基冲刷过程及冲刷坑形态与分布,并选取经验公式对平台桩基极限冲刷深度进行了计算,计算结果与实测结果比较表明,所选公式在埕岛海域具有较好的适用性。     

Entropy analysis of SPM patterns: case study of Liverpool Bay

In Liverpool Bay (UK), suspended particulate matter (SPM) monitoring data and tidal data collected in the period September 2004 to February 2006 were analyzed by means of entropy analysis and factor analysis in order to identify the meteorological and oceanographic variables of importance for the characterisation of the shape of SPM size spectra. Entropy analysis of in situ particle size spectra revealed five basic types, each attributable to different sets of environmental conditions. The results of correlation analysis showed that changes in the position of the main modal are significantly related to several environmental variables. One important class of these relationships is represented by wave-related variables (e.g. wave energy, maximum orbital velocity). Another important class of correlations (e.g. with salinity, density, water depth) can be associated with the inshore?Coffshore gradient in depth and physicochemical conditions existing in the bay. The strongest correlations, however, were with the air and water temperatures. Factor analysis (with Varimax rotation) of the overall dataset extracted four factors, together explaining over 70% of variance. Factor 1 explains >21% of the total variance, and appears to be related to wave activity. Factor 2, explaining 18.5% of the total variance, appears to be related to tidal currents. Factor 3 explains 16.4% of the total variance observed, and appears to be related to temperature-modulated seasonal differences in oceanographic conditions. Factor 4 explains 15.2% of the total variance observed, and represents the inshore?Coffshore gradient in depth and physicochemical conditions. These findings are a step towards a better characterisation of floc size and, therefore, more precise calculations of sedimentation and transport rates needed for an improved understanding of ecosystem functioning in Liverpool Bay and, for that matter, other similar settings.     

基于潮间带现场数据的底部切应力算法对比

底部切应力作为水动力和泥沙输移模型中的关键参数,对底床泥沙起动、侵蚀淤积速率的研究十分重要.目前基于现场实测流速数据计算底部切应力的理论方法有6种:LP-mean法、LP-max法、TKE法、TKE W法、RS法和ID法,这些方法都有其特定的适用条件.河口海岸浅水区域水流和波浪作用复杂,遴选合适的方法计算底部切应力非常...     

Measurement of water particle velocities in waves

Water surface profiles and horizontal and vertical water particle velocity components have been measured to investigate the properties of intermediate depth waves generated in the laboratory. The data has been compared with linear wave theory. It was found that linear theory predicted the attenuation of velocity field with depth successfully and that it overestimates both components of velocity slightly.     

Estimating coastal design extremes for given risks: A new approach

For many reasons, e.g., port operations, coastal construction planning, undersea structure survival, and underwater transport, man wishes to know the extreme values that are likely to occur in coastal oceanographic variables. This paper presents a hybrid statistics/ computer simulation method that uses archived oceanographic observations to estimate confidence levels on the most extreme values likely to occur over a given period in the future. The difference from previously developed methods is the ability to estimate the most extreme value over a time period for a given probability (as opposed to estimating the probability of exceeding a given value) and the ability to obtain results from empirical data without a great deal of theoretical oceanography. The method is applied to the California coast for a period of 100 years on the following variables: bottom surge particle velocity by water depth, wave height by water depth, wavelength by water depth, wave period, current velocity, regions of high density, regions of low density, and earthquake magnitude. Values are given for the 99- and 99.9-percent probability levels.