Numerical modeling of crenulate bay shapes

A numerical model is developed to compute the shoreline planform in a crenulate bay beach. The new model combines polar and Cartesian coordinates and can be used effectively to compute a hooked zone shoreline in the lee of upcoast headland. The model is calibrated using laboratory data with an incident wave angle ranging from 25° to 60°. The results of calibration and verification suggest that the ratio of the sediment transport parameters by wave and longshore current in this model is close to unity, and the computed shoreline planforms for the hooked and unhooked zones are in good agreement with the ones measured, especially when a bay is close to static equilibrium. In addition, the bay shape calculated by the present model is similar to that given by the well-known empirical parabolic equation for a bay in static equilibrium. The process of bay shape development from a straight beach to a static equilibrium bay is studied using laboratory experiments and the present numerical model. The temporal variations in the computed longshore sediment transport at different locations within a bay beach are analyzed. From this the decrease in the sediment transport becomes apparent while a bay beach changes its shape from straight toward a state of equilibrium. Based on this experience, it may be concluded that the present numerical model can produce a temporal change in the shoreline planform of a crenulate bay beach from a transition state to static equilibrium subject to seasonal wave action.     

Application of Headland Control for Stability of Beaches

- Studies on the erosion processes and protective measures at the downcoast of the Friendship Port in Mauritania have been successfully conducted by means of 3-D movable-bed model using light model-sand. The headland control was accepted for the stability of the beach. This paper mainly deals with the shape, orientation, size and erosion depth of the artificial headland. Various forms of headland projects, such as the normal groin, arch groins bending to upcoast ancj to downcoast, offshore breakwater, and T-shaped dike, have been experimentally investigated. Through a comparison of effects of these works on the beach processes, optimized headlands have been obtained, that is, unsymmetrical T-shaped dike or arch groin bending to the downcoast, which has been practically and successfully applied for the stability of beaches.     

Application of empirical models to bay-shaped beaches in Portugal

Three models were applied to analyse the planform of bay-shaped Portuguese beaches. They are based on empirical mathematical functions: the logarithmic spiral bay equation, the hyperbolic-tangent bay equation, and the parabolic bay equation. These models were applied to analyse the fitting to the beach planform of 42 beaches on the Portuguese Atlantic coast which was calculated through the validation against the waterline extracted from rectified aerial photographs. The logarithmic spiral model fits well the curved zone of the beaches, in particular small beaches with two headlands. Despite the good fitting of the hyperbolic-tangent model for one headland beach, its process of approximation to the solution was less intuitive than the processes of the other two models, therefore its application was more exhaustive. A comparative analysis between the logarithmic spiral model and the hyperbolic-tangent model revealed the best fit of the first. The application of the parabolic model allowed to conclude that despite the majority of the beaches analysed being in dynamic equilibrium condition due to the high energy wave regime of the Portuguese Atlantic coast, their planform was very close to the planform in static equilibrium condition due to the high dynamics of the coastal environment.     

海南万宁岬湾海岸海滩稳定性研究

岬湾海岸海滩的稳定性及其演变是砂质海岸研究的重要内容。基于多期遥感影像、海滩沉积物粒度分布,并采用岬湾海滩平衡形态模型(MEPBAY),分析探讨了海南岛东部万宁4个典型岬湾海岸海滩的稳定性及其模型的应用。研究表明,除东澳湾凸角处于不稳定状态,其余海岸处于静态或准静态平衡状态;岬湾海滩沉积物粒度在遮蔽段和开敞段有明显的差异,相邻海滩之间没有明显的泥沙交换,每个岬湾海滩都是相对独立的地貌单元;模型中上岬角控制点选取应考虑岛礁及水下礁坪;抛物线模型可以拓展应用于有离岸岛情况下的海湾。研究成果可为岬湾海滩的稳定性评估和管理提供科学依据。     

Morphodynamics of structurally controlled headland-bay beaches in southeastern Brazil: A review

This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and São Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay–headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range).     

淤泥质海床相邻的岬湾沙滩剖面特征研究

通过对浙江沿海岬角海湾沙滩多处典型剖面的调查,结果表明沙滩与淤泥质海床存在较明显的沙泥分界线,滩面物质自北至南,粒径差别不大,中值粒径在0.15~0.25mm之间,滩面基本呈现单一坡度,坡度为1∶15~1∶30,沙滩坡度与波浪动力相关,沙滩前沿波浪动力强,滩面较缓,反之滩面较陡。沙滩退化表现为滩面的截断、粗化和泥化,滩面截断导致沙滩面积减少,中、细沙供给不足;细沙采挖或局部工程导致的沿岸输沙动力条件的改变会使滩面物质变粗;岬湾的水动力条件减弱,易使沙泥分界线抬升,局部泥化;过度挖沙会导致沙滩消失成为泥滩。     

The effects of a bypass dunefield on the stability of a headland bay beach: A case study

This paper presents a case study on the modelling of a headland bay beach influenced by sediment input from migrating coastal dunes. The study area is the region around the town of Ingleses on Santa Catarina Island, Santa Catarina state, South-Eastern Brazil. Ingleses has been threatened by nature at two different fronts. At the north-eastern side of the town lies Ingleses Beach, a headland bay beach which seems to be subject to persistent erosion in recent years. On the south-western side the town is threatened by a migrating dunefield, which is encroaching onto houses and infrastructure, but which has not reached the beach in the past 70 years. A second dunefield in the area does not pose a direct threat to the town, but passes it on the eastern side and forms an important influence on the development of the beach. The sediment influx rate from this dunefield to the beach is 10,000 m³/year. To investigate the effect of the dunefields on the morphodynamic system, a numerical model has been created using the software packages SWAN and UNIBEST and the static equilibrium bay shape was determined by the software package MEPBAY. The result of the long-term scenario as predicted by UNIBEST agrees rather well with the static equilibrium bay shape found with MEPBAY. This provides sounds basis for the credibility of both models. Consequently, the predicted evolutional trend of the shoreline seems plausible.     

深圳大鹏半岛南岸西冲海滩的沉积物来源、平面形态稳定性及横向变化

The coast of the Dapeng Peninsula has been honored as one of "the eight most beautiful coasts in China". The most precious tourism resource for the peninsula is headland bay beaches, among which the beach at Xichong on the southern coast of the peninsula is the longest and the most important one. The information of the stability, sedimentary source and shape change of the beach is very important for maintaining the beach in terms of sustainable development of the peninsula. Heavy minerals in the sand of the beach and the inland stream at Xichong are compared with those of a nearby beach on the same coast to determine the beach sand source; with help of a computer software, MEPBAY, the equilibrium planforms of the beaches on the peninsula are compared with those of an island without rivers to evaluate the stream’s effects on the beach stability; cross shore profiles along the Xichong beach are also surveyed in different seasons of a year to assess the annual shore normal beach changes affected by the stream input, and the relation between the equilibrium planform state and cross shore changes of the beach. It is shown that(1) stream is the main sedimentary source of the beach and the weathering materials of the rocky headlands on both sides of the bay transported by waves are the second source for the beach but it is limited, sand from an inner shelf is not the sedimentary source for the beach at present and was not even during the Holocene transgression;(2) the Xichong beach cannot reach static equilibrium around the entire bay shoreline, the segment of the shoreline where a stream outlet is located is in dynamic equilibrium, and the unstable section occurs in the wave shadow region in the lee of an offshore island;(3) no matter whether the section of the beach shoreline at Xichong is in an equilibrium state or not, it is eroded in the typhoon season and recovered after the season, the maximum change in erosion and accretion occurs in the unstable segment;(4) the Xichong beach can only have small sand body since it is supplied with sand mainly form inland streams, resulting in a possible danger in which sand loss induced by human activities or huge storms cannot be replenished naturally.     

粤东靖海湾海岸地貌动力演变及其工程影响

受人为工程的影响,相对稳定的岬湾海岸地貌常经历显著的动态调整。本文以粤东靖海湾典型岬湾海岸为例,运用Mc Laren模型、波浪动力场数值模拟、等深线对比、冲淤计算等多种方法,从海岸地貌动力学角度,对人为岬角工程前后岬湾海岸地貌动力过程和冲淤演变进行综合分析。结果表明:1)海岸地貌动力系统内常存在负反馈机制以维持系统的稳定。岬角工程后上岬角防波堤沿SSW延伸,ESE和E向浪经过防波堤时发生绕射,波能削减,湾顶动力减弱,海滩沉积物从下岬角向湾顶反向运移;2)海滩的蚀积状态在工程前后发生了转换,工程前遮蔽段侵蚀、开敞段堆积;工程后遮蔽段堆积、开敞段侵蚀;3)海湾水下地形对岬角工程的响应敏感,工程后海湾水下地形冲淤剧烈。     

Study on headland-bay sandy coast stability in South China coasts

Headland-bay beach equilibrium planform has been a crucial problem abroad to long-term sandy beach evolution and stabilization,extensively applied to forecast long-term coastal erosion evolvement and the influences of coastal engineering as well as long-term coastal management and protection.However,little concern focuses on this in China.The parabolic relationship is the most widely used empirical relationship for determining the static equilibrium shape of headland-bay beaches.This paper utilizes the relation to predict and classify 31 headland-bay beaches and concludes that these bays cannot achieve the ultimate static equilibrium planform in South China.The empirical bay equation can morphologically estimate beach stabilization state,but it is just a referential predictable means and is difficult to evaluate headland-bay shoreline movements in years and decades.By using Digital Shoreline Analysis System suggested by USGS,the rates of shoreline recession and accretion of these different headland-bay beaches are quantitatively calculated from 1990 to 2000.The conclusions of this paper include that (a) most of these 31 bays maintain relatively stable and the rates of erosion and accretion are relatively large with the impact of man-made constructions on estuarine within these bays from 1990 to 2000;(b) two bays,Haimen Bay and Hailingshan Bay,originally in the quasi-static equilibrium planform determined by the parabolic bay shape equation,have been unstable by the influence of coastal engineering;and (c) these 31 bays have different recession and accretion characters occurring in some bays and some segments.On the one hand,some bays totally exhibit accretion,but some bays show erosion on the whole.Shanwei Bay,Houmen Bay,Pinghai Bay and Yazhou Bay have the similar planforms,characterized by less accretion on the sheltering segment and bigger accretion on the transitional and tangential segments.On the other hand,different segments of some bays have two dissimilar evolvement characters.Dacheng Bay,Shenquan Bay,Hudong Bay,Wukan Bay,Fengjia Bay,Wuchang Bay,Lingshui Bay and Tufu Bay produce accretion on the tangential segment,erosion on the transitional segment and accretion on the sheltering segment.However,Guang’ao Bay,Haimen Bay,Jinghai Bay,Sanya Bay(a),Dajiao Bay,Hailingshan Bay,Hebei Bay,Fuhu Bay,Shuidong Bay,Wangcun Bay and Bomao Bay generate erosion on the tangential part,accretion on the transitional part and accretion on the sheltering part.It seems to imply some relations between headland-bay beach evolvement and controls on headland-bay beaches,which may possibly to classify headland-bay beach types and should be further studied.     

Dynamic analysis of a vertical plate exposed to breaking wave impact

From the experimental studies in recent years, it has become known that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical faced coastal structure, high magnitude impact pressures are produced. The theoretical and experimental studies show that the dynamic response of such structures under wave impact loading is closely dependent on the magnitude and duration of the load history. The dynamic analysis and design of a coastal structure can be succeeded provided the design load history for the wave impact is available. Since these types of data are very scarce, it is much more convenient to follow a method which is based on static analysis for the dynamic design procedure. Therefore, to facilitate the dynamic design of a vertical plate that is exposed to breaking wave impact, a multiplication factor called “dynamic magnification factor” is herein presented which is defined as the ratio of the maximum value of the dynamic response to that found by static analysis. The computational results of the present study show that the dynamic magnification factor is a useful ratio to transfer the results of static analysis to the dynamic design of a coastal plate for the maximum impact pressure conditions of p_max/γH₀≤18.     

An Engineering Application Tool for Visual Assessment of the Equilibrium Beach

An engineering application tool for prediction of the static equilibrium bay(Beach Mod)is established to describe two bay shape formulas by use of the programming software "MATLAB" with a graphic user interface(GUI).The tool is user-friendly for engineering students for the design of beach shapes.This tool was tested through application on three types of beaches in Taiwan and Australia.By implementing the concept of Headland Control,the Beach Mod program allows users to draw a structure and create an artificial headland.The results indicate that Beach Mod can efficiently forecast beach changes as well as MEPBAY,a competing software package,while boasting a better user interface.     

黄渤海沿岸海湾─溺谷型潮汐汊道的地貌结构

本文以丁字湾等基岩海湾为例，论述了黄渤海沿岸海湾－溺谷型潮汐汉道的地貌结构，尤其着重于口门段深槽及涨、落潮三角洲。认为涨、落潮三角洲的发育状况与入湾河流的供沙量、纳潮水域容量、被浪作用、潮差以及口少卜海域的开阔程度有关；泻湖型潮汐汉道的落潮三角洲的典型模式可以应用于海湾－溺谷型潮汐汉道，但涨潮三角洲因受基岩海湾的复杂岸线的限制而不能充分发育。本文还讨论了海湾型潮汐汉道与半开敞海湾在动力和形态中的差异。     

Design of a caisson plate under wave impact

From the laboratory experiments and field studies it has been shown that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical wall, impact pressures of high magnitude and short duration, are produced. Despite the recent advances made in collecting data on impact pressure histories and their spatial distributions, analyses on the structural behaviour of the walls loaded by the impact forces do not seem adequate. In the present study the theoretical analysis of the response characteristics of a caisson plate, having different aspect ratios, under the wave impact loading is investigated. Numerical results for the dynamic values of moments and transverse displacements are obtained by the method of finite elements. Some prerequisite experimental data for wave breaking and resulting impact pressures are provided. The static results for moments and deflections are also computed for comparing them with the dynamic values. The dynamic results are found significantly greater than the static values. The ratio between the dynamic and static values is called “Dynamic magnification factor” that varies with plate aspect ratio. Based on this factor a procedure is proposed which may have practical consequences in the design of caisson plates.     

Seasonal variations in dissolved organic carbon concentrations and characteristics in a shallow coastal bay

Dissolved organic matter (DOM) composition and dynamics in temperate shallow coastal bays are not well described although these bays may be important as local sources of organic carbon to ocean waters and are often sites of economically-important fisheries and aquaculture. In this study surface water samples were collected on a monthly to bi-monthly basis over two years from a mid-Atlantic coastal bay (Chincoteague Bay, Virginia and Maryland, USA). Dissolved organic carbon (DOC) concentrations and light absorbance characteristics were measured on sterile-filtered water, and high-molecular weight (> 1 kDa) dissolved OM (DOM) was isolated to determine stable isotope composition and molecular-level characteristics. Our time series encompassed both a drought year (2002) and a year of above-average rainfall (2003). During the dry year, one of our sites developed a very intense bloom of the brown tide organism Aureococcus anophagefferens while during the wet year there were brown tide bloom events at both of our sampling sites. During early spring of the wet year, there were higher concentrations of > 1 kDa DOC; this fraction represented a larger proportion of overall DOC and appeared considerably more allochthonous. Based upon colored dissolved organic matter (CDOM) and high-molecular weight DOM analyses, the development of extensive phytoplankton blooms during our sampling period significantly altered the quality of the DOM. Throughout both years Chincoteague Bay had high DOC concentrations relative to values reported for the coastal ocean. This observation, in conjunction with the observed effects of phytoplankton blooms on DOM composition, indicates that Chincoteague Bay may be a significant local source of “recently-fixed” organic carbon to shelf waters. Estimating inputs of DOC from Chincoteague Bay to the Mid-Atlantic Bight suggests that shallow productive bays should be considered in studies of organic carbon on continental shelves.     

半封闭海湾纳潮量的一种直接观测方法

文章推荐了一种半封闭海湾纳潮量的直接观测方法,主要利用ADCP在封闭湾口的观测断面上进行周期性的往还式周日连续走航观测,通过观测到的湾口流量变化序列直接计算海湾的纳潮量。文中提供了较为系统的观测方案以供借鉴。     

Correspondence between the distribution of hydrodynamic time parameters and the distribution of biological and chemical variables in a semi-enclosed coral reef lagoon

Hydrodynamic modeling can be used to spatially characterize water renewal rates in coastal ecosystems. Using a hydrodynamic model implemented over the semi-enclosed Southwest coral lagoon of New Caledonia, a recent study computed the flushing lag as the minimum time required for a particle coming from outside the lagoon (open ocean) to reach a specific station [Jouon, A., Douillet, P., Ouillon, S., Fraunié, P., 2006. Calculations of hydrodynamic time parameters in a semi-opened coastal zone using a 3D hydrodynamic model. Continental Shelf Research 26, 1395–1415]. Local e-flushing time was calculated as the time requested to reach a local grid mesh concentration of 1/e from the precedent step. Here we present an attempt to connect physical forcing to biogeochemical functioning of this coastal ecosystem. An array of stations, located in the lagoonal channel as well as in several bays under anthropogenic influence, was sampled during three cruises. We then tested the statistical relationships between the distribution of flushing indices and those of biological and chemical variables. Among the variables tested, silicate, chlorophyll a and bacterial biomass production present the highest correlations with flushing indices. Correlations are higher with local e-flushing times than with flushing lags or the sum of these two indices. In the bays, these variables often deviate from the relationships determined in the main lagoon channel. In the three bays receiving significant riverine inputs, silicate is well above the regression line, whereas data from the bay receiving almost insignificant freshwater inputs generally fit the lagoon channel regressions. Moreover, in the three bays receiving important urban and industrial effluents, chlorophyll a and bacterial production of biomass generally display values exceeding the lagoon channel regression trends whereas in the bay under moderate anthropogenic influence values follow the regressions obtained in the lagoon channel. The South West lagoon of New Caledonia can hence be viewed as a coastal mesotrophic ecosystem that is flushed by oligotrophic oceanic waters which subsequently replace the lagoonal waters with water considerably impoverished in resources for microbial growth. This flushing was high enough during the periods of study to influence the distribution of phytoplankton biomass, bacterial production of biomass and silicate concentrations in the lagoon channel as well as in some of the bay areas.     

Evaluation of the flushing rates of Apalachicola Bay, Florida via natural geochemical tracers

We used naturally occurring radium isotopes as tracers of water exchange in Apalachicola Bay, a shallow coastal-plain estuary in northwestern Florida. The bay receives fresh water and radium from the Apalachicola River, and mixes with Gulf of Mexico waters through four inlets. We deployed moored buoys with attached Mn-fibers at several stations throughout the estuary during two summer and two winter periods. After deployment for at least one tidal cycle we measured the ratio of the two short-lived radium isotopes ²²³Ra (half-life = 11 d) and ²²⁴Ra (3.6 d) to estimate “radium ages” of the water in the bay.During our four seasonal deployments the river discharge ranged from 338 to 1016 m³ s^− 1. According to our calculations the water turnover time in the bay during these samplings ranged from 6 to 12 days. Age contours in the bay showed that winds and tides as well as river discharge influence the water movement and the residence time of freshwater in the bay. We also calculated the mean age of river water in the bay which was between 5 to 9 days during the studied periods. We suggest that this approach can be used to quantify transport processes of dissolved substances in the bay. For example, soluble nutrient or pollutant transport rates from a point source could be examined. We conclude that the radium age technique is well suited for flushing rate calculations in river dominated shallow estuaries.     

不同地理位置海湾内的台风波浪分析

分析了大亚湾湾口测点W1和湾内测点W2的台风波浪资料，并与海口新海湾内测点B的波能消衰情况进行对比，说明不同地理位置海湾内的台风波浪分布特性之差异，结果表明，W1及W2两处台风波浪的平均波高H和平均周期T的比值分别为0.54和0.75，而最大比值分别为0.67和1.01；同时，不同地理位置海湾内的台风波浪也各有不同的计算方案。