青岛近岸海域波浪要素特征研究

本文基于小麦岛海洋环境监测站2014年波浪骑士浮标观测数据以及风速、风向观测数据,对青岛近岸海域波浪要素特征进行了综合分析。整体来看,波浪骑士观测数据质量较高,观测海域以2至3级波高为主,年平均最大波高和平均波周期分别为0.89 m和4.4 s,平均波向主要分布在90°～270°的偏南向范围内,常浪向和强浪向均为东南向(SE)。波高变化与风速较为一致,春、夏季大浪过程较多,以东南向浪为主。通过有效波陡数据分析,得出观测海域以风浪、未成熟涌浪占主。本文利用长期、连续、高精度的波浪方向谱数据,对青岛市近岸海域波浪特征进行分析,对于青岛市近海的海浪预警监测、防灾减灾、海洋工程建设、海上运输等具有重要的参考价值。     

胶州湾的波浪数值计算

本文利用波浪方向的能量分布概念和公式,计算了胶州湾多年一遇的设计波浪要素,并绘制了整个胶州湾主要方向50a一遇波高和周期的分布图.由此可以了解胶州湾波浪的地域特征和方向差异.     

斜向和多向不规则波对直立堤平均越浪量研究

通过三维波浪模型试验研究了斜向和多向不规则波对直立堤的越浪量。分别按平均越浪量和单波最大越浪量进行研究,探讨了平均越浪量随相对堤高、波浪方向、波浪方向分布宽度、波陡和相对水深等影响因素的变化规律,导得了斜向和多向不规则波作用于直立堤上的平均越浪量的计算公式。     

高阶谱方法建立三维畸形波聚焦模拟模型

三维波浪方向聚焦是畸形波形成机理之一.为了模拟和分析这一现象,在势流理论内基于改进的高阶谱(HOS)方法,给出了时空聚焦方式生成畸形波的三维波浪模型.利用满足周期性边界条件的具有不同频率、不同传播方向的各独立组成波,分隔了计算域内的能量;使各组成波采用等振幅能量分布的形式,聚焦模拟了实验尺度畸形波;把高阶谱方法拓展到大尺度的开敞海域,考虑波浪方向分布的影响,聚焦模拟了大尺度畸形波的发展和形成过程.     

基于格子Boltzmann方法的斜坡堤越浪数值模拟研究

准确确定越浪量对于斜坡堤设计有重要意义。利用格子Boltzmann方法(LBM),并采用主动吸收式速度入口造波、出流边界消波、VOF方法追踪自由表面以及静态Smagorinsky模型模拟紊流运动,建立二维数值波浪水槽,对光滑斜坡堤上规则波与不规则波越浪进行数值模拟。模拟结果与试验值及其他数值模型结果比较表明,二维LBM数值波浪水槽具有模拟斜坡堤越浪的能力,但对于破碎较为剧烈的越浪过程模拟,该模型还存在一定的不足,未来可从提高自由表面模型精度等方面进一步改善其性能。     

莺歌海洋站附近海域波浪特征分析

本文利用莺歌海站多年的波浪实测资料,对其附近海域的波浪要素的基本特征、变化规律、风与浪的相关规律进行分析研究,阐明了海区海浪的特点及变化规律。该海区属热带季风气候区,波浪主要受季风影响,季风时期的风向、风浪传播方向、涌浪传播方向基本一致。通过对观测资料统计分析发现:该海域波浪主要是以风浪为主,常浪向是SE向,次浪向是SSE向,强浪向是SE向,波高以轻浪为主。波型方面,春季和夏季SE向风浪占绝对优势,秋季和冬季NNW向风浪占优势,涌浪频率四季均是S向最大,并结合国内海洋波浪测量技术现状,在仪器装备研发、算法模型及数据处理分析软件升级、站位布局优化、计量标准化研究等方面提出几点建议。     

江苏海域波浪数值模拟研究

本文以风场为驱动运用第三代波浪模型SWAN对江苏海域的波候进行了模拟研究。在模拟过程中采用了嵌套结构,并考虑了潮位对波浪的影响,提高了近岸波浪模拟的精度。同时,对江苏海域波浪分布特征进行了研究。研究结果表明:江苏海域深水区域年平均有效波高分布趋势由南往北逐渐递减,而近岸10m水深处波高从大丰港开始由南往北呈先增加后减小的趋势。江苏海域年平均有效波高最大值为1.5m,最大年平均周期为4.6s,常浪向为NE或SE方向,四季中冬季浪最大,强浪向为NE—NNE方向。     

声学波潮仪波浪测量要素的试验分析

坐底式声学波潮仪采用遥测方法进行表层波浪测量,不干扰波浪场,测量准确度高。现有国产声学波潮仪只具备波高、波周期和潮汐测量能力,欠缺波向测量功能。针对仪器国产化需求,研制一种新型坐底式波潮仪,可同时测量波高、波周期、波向、潮汐和温度,是一种先进的海洋监测设备。本文采用基于多向不规则波的仿真模型对比声学波潮仪和诺泰克浪龙的方向谱反演能力,2019年3月在山东省海洋环境监测技术重点试验室下属岸边试验站进行比测试验,比测仪器为挪威诺泰克浪龙,实测数据分析表明,声学波潮仪和诺泰克浪龙总体上吻合好,验证了声学波潮仪的波浪测量准确性。     

长江口深水航道工程对航道附近海域波浪分布特征的影响研究

本文针对长江口深水航道工程建设前后航道内波浪特征的变化进行了分析研究,首先基于对长江口历史波浪资料分析,确定了E、NE和SE3个浪向为航道内典型代表,采用第3代波浪模型SWAN对工程建设前后的波浪进行模拟计算。研究表明,航道工程建设后航道内的有效波高和周期明显减小,但是其变化的规律基本一致。在不同天文潮影响时,航道内的有效波高和周期大不相同。E向和NE向的浪在大潮期间有效波高和周期均高于小潮时,SE向浪却相反。对于NE向的浪,航道工程对有效波高的影响大致呈现出从右向左逐渐减弱。对于E向和SE向的浪,航道工程对有效波高的影响大致呈现出从右向左先增强再减弱。航道工程对不同方向的浪在不同分段上也有所不同,在右段对NE向的消弱最强,对SE向最弱,在中段和左段对E向消弱最强,对NE向最弱。航道内流场与水位对波要素的影响也略有差别。     

潮汐影响下海滩前滨波浪传播耗能过程分析

文章基于长乐海滩前滨剖面的实测波浪数据, 通过统计分析以及谱分析的方法, 探讨了潮汐过程中长乐海滩波浪参数及耗能过程的变化规律。结果表明, 观测期间内波浪以混合浪为主, 各测点谱型较宽, 存在多峰振荡现象。向岸传播过程中, 波能耗散的形式为窄频域向宽频域转变, 能量分布趋于分散, 高频波能减小, 低频波能反而有所上升, 波浪破碎后生成长重力波。破波带内的能量衰减与波浪传播距离具有良好的相关性, 破碎波能在破波带内大约衰减了98.3%。潮汐水位对波浪具有明显的调制作用。入射波能随潮汐水位的增加而有所增加, 且水位越高, 入射波能分布越分散。破波带内的有效波高和潮汐水位具有显著的正相关关系。潮汐过程中固定测点的波谱变化与波浪沿剖面的波谱变化具有明显的相似性。     

Microbial Biomass and Organic Nutrients in the Deep-Sea Sediments of the Central Indian Ocean Basin

In order to assess the impact of deep-sea mining on the in situ benthic life, we measured the microbial standing stock and concentration of organic nutrients in the deep-sea sediments of the Central Indian Ocean Basin in the Indian pioneer area. Sediments were collected using box core and grab samples during September 1996. The total bacterial numbers ranged from 10 10 -10 11 cells per g -1 dry weight sediment. There was a marginal decrease in the number of bacteria from surface to 30 cm depth, though the subsurface section registered a higher number than did the surface. The highest numbers were encountered at depths of 4-8 cm. The retrievable number of bacteria were two orders less in comparison with the direct total counts of bacteria. An almost homogeneous distribution of bacteria, total organic carbon, living biomass, and lipids throughout the depth of cores indicates active microbial and benthic processes in the deep sea sediments. On the other hand, a uniform distribution of total counts of bacteria, carbohydrates, and total organic carbon in all the cores indicates their stable nature and suggests that they can serve as useful parameters for long-term monitoring of the area after the benthic disturbance. Further studies on temporal variability in this region would not only verify the observed norms of distribution of these variables but would also help to understand restabilization processes after the simulated benthic disturbance.     

Assessing the Validity of Seismo-Acoustic Predictor Equations for Obtaining Seabed and Sub-Surface Sediment Physical Properties

The interdependence between the seismo-acoustic properties of a marine sediment and its geotechnical/physical parameters has been known for many years, and it has been postulated that this should allow the extraction of geotechnical information from seismic data. Though in the literature many correlations have been published for the surficial layer, there is a lack of information for greater sediment depths. In this article, a desktop study on a synthetic seafloor model illustrates how the application of published near-surface prediction equations to subsurface sediments (up to several tens of meters burial depth) can lead to spurious predictions. To test this further, acoustic and geotechnical properties were measured on a number of sediment core samples, some of which were subjected to loading in acoustically-equipped consolidation cells (oedometers) to simulate greater burial depth conditions. For low effective pressures (representing small burial depths extending to around 10 meters subsurface), the general applicability of established relationships was confirmed: the prediction of porosity, bulk density, and mean grain size from acoustic velocity and impedance appears generally possible for the investigated sedimentary environments. As effective pressure increases through, the observed relationships deviate more and more from the established ones for the near-surface area. For the samples tested in this study, in some instances increasing pressure even resulted in decreasing velocities. There are several possible explanations for this abnormal behavior, including the presence of gas, overconsolidation, or bimodal grain size distribution. The results indicate that an appropriate depth correction must be introduced into the published prediction equations in order to obtain reliable estimates of physical sediment properties for greater subsurface depths.     

A Review of Some Environmental Issues Affecting Marine Mining

This article reviews information recently available from existing marine and coastal mining for responses to environmental issues affecting marine mining at different depths. It is particularly but not exclusively concerned with those issues affecting seabed biodiversity impact and recovery. Much information has been gathered in the past 10 years from shallow mining operations for construction aggregate, diamonds, and gold, from coastal mines discharging tailings to shallow and deep water, and from experimental deep mining tests. The responses to issues identified are summarized in a series of eight tables intended to facilitate site-specific consideration. Since impacts can spread widely in the surface mixing layer SML, and can affect the biologically productive euphotic zone, the main issues considered arise from the depth of mining relative to the SML of the sea. Where mining is below the SML, the issue is whether it is environmentally better to bring the extraction products to the surface vessel for processing (and waste discharge), or to process the extraction products as much as possible on the seabed. Responses to the issues need to be sitespecific, and dependent on adequate preoperational environmental impact and recovery prediction. For deep tailings disposal from a surface vessel, there are four important environmental unknowns: (1) the possible growth of "marine snow" (bacterial flocs) utilizing the enormous quantities of fine tailings particles (hundreds or thousands of metric tons per day) as nuclei for growth, (2) the possibility that local keystone plankton and nekton species may migrate diurnally down to and beyond the depth of deep discharge and hence be subjected to tailings impact at depth, (3) the burrow-up capability of deep benthos and their ability to survive high rates of tailings deposition, and (4) the pattern and rate of dispersion of a tailings density current through the deep water column from discharge point to seabed. Actions to obtain relevant information in general and site-specifically are suggested.     

Increased Particle Fluxes at the INDEX Site Attributable to Simulated Benthic Disturbance

Particle fluxes were measured 7 m above the sea bottom during the predisturbance, disturbance, and postdisturbance periods by using time series sediment traps attached to seven deep-sea moorings deployed in the INDEX experiment site in the Central Indian Basin. The predisturbance particle fluxes varied between 22.3 to 55.1 mg m -2 day -1 . Increased and variable particle fluxes were recorded by the sediment traps during the disturbance period. The increase observed was 0.5 to 4 times more than the background predisturbance fluxes. The increases in particle fluxes (~4 times) recorded by the sediment trap located in the southwestern direction (DMS-1) were the greatest, which could be the result of preferential movement of resuspended particles generated during the deep-sea benthic disturbance along the general current direction prevailing in this area during the experimental period. Also, the traps located closer to the disturbance area recorded greater fluxes than did the traps far away, across the Deep Sea Sediment Resuspension System path. This variability in recorded particle fluxes by the traps around the disturbance area clearly indicates that physical characteristics such as grain size and density of the resuspended particles produced during the disturbance had an important effect on particle movement. The postdisturbance measurements during ~5 days showed a reduction in particle fluxes of ~50%, indicating rapid particle settlement.     

海上大直径钢管桩打桩过程中桩周土强度弱化研究

海上大直径钢管桩打桩过程中,桩周土体受到强烈扰动而发生强度弱化,掌握桩周土体强度弱化规律对于准确预测打桩过程、保证工程安全具有重要意义。为研究土体强度弱化规律,开展了环剪试验模拟打桩对桩周土体的扰动,测试土体强度随剪切速率的变化规律,建立了描述土体强度弱化规律的拟合公式,引入到打桩分析软件中。研究结果表明：土体的强度折减程度不仅与土体本身的性质有关还受到土体的埋深和剪切速率的影响,埋深越深土体强度折减程度越低,剪切速率越高土体强度折减越高,在打桩分析中可采用这里推荐的线性折减方法来模拟不同深度处土体强度的折减规律。     

Geoacoustic Inversion via Genetic Algorithm and Its Application to Manganese Sediment Identification

An acoustic inversion method using a wide-band signal and two near field receivers is proposed and applied to multiple layered seabed models including a manganese sediment. The inversion problem can be formulated into a probabilistic model comprised of signals, a forward model, and additive noise. The forward model simulates wide-band signals, such as chirp signals, and is chosen to be the source-waveletconvolution plane wave modeling method. The wavelet matching technique, using weighted least-squares fitting, estimates the sediment sound-speed and thickness on which determination of the possible numerical ranges for a priori uniform distribution is based. The genetic algorithm is applied to a global optimization problem to find a maximum a posteriori solution for determined a priori search space. Here the object function is defined by an L 2 norm of the difference between measured and modeled signals. Not only the marginal pdf but also its statistics are calculated by numerical evaluation of integrals using the samples selected during importance sampling process of the genetic algorithm.     

Determination of In Situ Sediment Shear Strength from Advanced Piston Corer Pullout Forces

The advanced piston corer (APC) has been used by the Ocean Drilling Program since 1985 for recovering soft sediments from the ocean floor. The pullout force measured on extracting the core barrel from the sediment is shown to correlate with the average shear strength of the sediment core measured in the ship's laboratory. A simple rule of thumb is derived relating the shear strength of the sediment to the pullout force. Multiple APC holes at individual sites allow the consistency of the pullout measurements to be assessed. The effects of different operational procedures during APC coring are also explored. Although generally applicable, the correlation between pullout force and laboratory measurements of shear strength breaks down for some APC holes, possibly because of the disturbance of some sediment types during the APC coring process. A better understanding of the physical process of APC coring, and its effect on the properties of the sediment both inside and immediately outside the core barrel, would indicate what confidence can be put on the measurement of pullout force as a way of evaluating the in situ shear strength of deep sea sediments.     

Interannual Sea Level Variations and Annual Tides in the Northwestern Pacific

Specific properties of the interannual sea level variations and annual tides in the Northwestern Pacific were studied. Several tide stations were monitored. The monthly mean sea level for the year of 1995 was analyzed at each tide station. A seismic event in 1995, some tectonic activity around the subject area, and the Kuroshio (the oceanic western boundary current) may possibly contaminate results which would have occurred from the astronomical annual tide alone.     

《Acta Oceanologica Sinica》Vol. 33(2014) contents

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