半封闭海湾共振周期计算与研究

三门湾海域水波共振现象较为显著,容易引发海洋灾害。针对三门湾这一典型半封闭海湾,分别从理论推导和数值模拟两方面研究了三门湾的共振周期。研究发现:理论推导结果可以用于对海湾整体共振周期的粗略估计,数值模拟结果更加精确,也能充分反映海湾内不同水域的共振特征。数值模拟结果表明,三门湾内各水域普遍存在3~4个共振周期模态,湾内各水道第一模态和第三模态共振周期数值解与理论值较为接近,石浦水道与外海相联通,共振周期不显著。三门湾内各水域共振周期第一模态对应的振幅最大,然后依次递减,但湾顶的青山港、蛇蟠水道第二模态共振周期及对应的振幅值与第一模态相差较小,基本呈现双峰结构。共振振幅由湾外向三门湾顶部逐渐增加,尤其是湾顶处振幅增益比较显著。通过本研究可以为三门湾的防灾减灾提供科学依据。     

南海海啸在泰国湾海域的共振响应

马尼拉海沟具备引发地震海啸的条件,是南中国海主要的潜在海啸发生区。南中国海西南部泰国湾海域和纳土纳海域地形复杂、多独立的半封闭水域,海啸波极易在该区域形成水波共振,加剧其灾害影响。采用COMCOT海啸模型模拟了马尼拉海沟断裂带发生9.3级地震时引发海啸的长时间传播过程,并基于水波共振理论分析其在不同尺度下的共振特性。结果表明,海啸波在曼谷湾至邦加—勿里洞岛间引起了明显的纵向第一、二模态(3 360.0 min、1 440.0 min)水波共振,在泰国湾至邦加—勿里洞岛之间引起了明显的纵向第二、三、四模态(775.4 min、560.0 min、373.3 min)共振,而在泰国湾至印度尼西亚沿岸引起了明显的纵向第二、三、五、七模态(1 008.0 min、630.0 min、373.3 min、252.0 min)水波共振。此外,海啸波不仅在泰国湾引起了明显的纵向第一、三、四模态(560. 0 min、252. 0 min、179. 4 min)共振,还在其横向出现了明显的第一、二、三模态(480.0 min、252.0 min、179.4 min)共振。     

温州瓯江口浅滩地区越洋海啸影响评估计算

日本“3·11”地震海啸事件发生后,为了避免灾难重演,各滨海国家在加强海啸基础理论研究、改进海啸预警系统的同时,还应对沿海重大工程及重点保障目标进行地震海啸灾害风险排查及再评估工作;对在建的重大基础设施和社会经济功能区划应进行全面的地震海啸安全论证.在此背景下,该文首先概括总结了我国东南沿海的地震海啸风险及历史海啸事件时空分布,简要介绍了越洋海啸传播特征.海啸源选取基于潜在可能最大海啸,选取环太平洋地震带上的潜在地震海啸源,进行温州瓯江口地区越洋海啸影响评估计算.海啸数值计算模型采用美国康奈尔大学的COMCOT模型,利用该模型对2010年智利海啸、2011年日本海啸进行了近场、远场模拟验证,计算结果与观测数据吻合良好,模型可信.应用联合国教科文组织政府间海洋学委员会(UNESCO/IOC)太平洋海啸预警系统的海啸危险性等级标准,结合评估计算结果,对瓯江口浅滩地区海啸危险性进行等级划分,获得了该地区的海啸危险性初步评估结果.结果表明:在所选的10个潜在或历史海啸源产生的越洋海啸对研究区域的影响均小于100 cm,此规模的海啸不易对该地区造成灾害性影响.研究结果对于指导该地区的海啸灾害风险评估及风险排查具有一定的参考价值.     

浙江省２０００—２０１０年海洋生态灾害概况及防灾对策

文章对2000年以来浙江沿海发生的海洋生态灾害概况进行了梳理。浙江沿海的主要海洋生态灾害有赤潮、海洋污损、溢油和生物入侵。2000—2010年的11年间浙江沿海共记录到赤潮、海洋污损(含溢油)灾害820次,累计受灾面积超过91410km2,直接经济损失超过53200万元,溢油量超过2500t。主要入侵生物为互花米草,到2010年,其分布面积已经扩大到6924hm2,主要分布于苍南沿海、温州湾、乐清湾西门岛、台州湾、三门湾、象山港和杭州湾南岸沿海滩涂。此外,文章还回顾了11年来浙江省在省市县三级海洋监测体系建设和赤潮灾害防范措施方面取得的成就,并从政策、技术、宣传3个层面指出了今后的防灾对策。     

日本南海海沟潜在地震海啸对中国东部沿海影响的数值模拟研究

2011-03-11日本东北部地震海啸发生后,围绕日本南海海沟发生潜在9级地震的可能性也进一步增大。采用高精度高分辨率有限体积浅水波数值模型GeoClaw对日本东北大地震海啸的产生、传播过程进行数值模拟研究,模拟结果对比海上浮标观测数据及中国东部沿海验潮站记录数据可知首波波峰偏差小于10%,表明模型GeoClaw可以很好地模拟海啸在大洋中及东海大陆架的传播过程。利用模型GeoClaw对日本南海海沟9级地震断层模型进行海啸数值模拟研究。研究表明,地震引发的海啸波能量巨大,同时向各个方向传播。地震发生5h后海啸波到达中国东部福建沿海地区,进而影响浙江、上海、江苏等沿海地区,海啸波高可达到1 m以上。鉴于日本南海海沟大地震发生的历史性规律及对中国东部沿海地区造成的潜在灾害,需要对其进行相应的数值模拟研究。     

基于海底压力测量的海啸预警方法研究

海啸是一种具有极大破坏力的海洋灾害,及时准确的海啸预报可大幅降低人民生财产损失。文中介绍了一种新的海啸灾害预警方法。该方法针对海啸预警需求,分析海啸波和海洋中的其他波动特性,以海底高精度压力测量为核心并消除噪声信号影响,可实现深海远距离海啸实时预警。以该方法为基础研制的海啸监测仪可实时监测并识别海啸波,从根本上降低海啸预警误报、漏报的概率,提高海啸预警系统的性能,及时为决策者提供信息,有效降低海啸灾害带来的损失。     

浙江沿海潜在区域地震海啸风险分析

采用COMCOT海啸模型建立三重网格模型模拟了2011年3月11日日本东北部9.0级地震引发的海啸发生、发展以及在我国东南沿海传播过程。震源附近浮标站以及浙江沿海的潮位站实测资料验证结果显示,大部分监测站首波到达时间和海啸波的计算值相差在15%以内,表明模型可较好的模拟海啸在计算域内的传播过程。研究表明日本南海海槽、冲绳海槽以及琉球海沟南部是影响浙江沿海主要的区域潜在震源,通过情景计算分别模拟3个潜在震源9.1级、8.0级和8.7级地震引发的海啸对浙江沿海的海啸风险,计算结果表明,海啸波产生后可在3~8h内传至浙江省沿岸,海啸波达1~3m,最大可达4m,此时浙江沿岸面临Ⅲ~Ⅳ级海啸风险,达到淹没至严重淹没等级。     

海口湾海洋水动力自然灾害评估分析

开展海洋水动力自然灾害评价分析是涉海工程海洋灾害风险评估的重要组成部分,其重在水动力风险因素的识别与风险强度的预估,是有效提高灾害防御能力、控制风险和减少灾害损失的关键技术方法之一。海口湾水域位于海南岛北岸,琼州海峡内、濒临南海,由于其特殊地理位置,对海口湾水域影响最为显著的海洋动力灾害主要包括:风暴潮、海浪和海啸。本文针对上述问题,基于数值模拟方法以及实测数据统计和经验分析等方法,研究确定了该海域所面临的上述各风险因素的成因,并确定了其对应强度大小和危害破坏情况,给出了极端条件下的数值结果,为相关工程的海域使用论证提供参考依据。其中,风暴潮增水主要基于实测台风资料通过随机统计与水动力模型相结合的方法,推求出重现期为50、100以及500 a的极端高水位值。极端大浪主要基于30 a的台风过程与疾风资料,结合后报风场数据,采用SWAN模拟海域波浪场,分别计算给出重现期100、50 a波浪要素,并验证了海域内人工岛护面稳定性情况。海啸波主要依托Nguyen et al(2014)在USGS震源参数基础上导出的震源参数,采用浅水波模型分别对7.0和8.0级地震形成的海啸进行数值模拟,估算对海口湾水域影响情况,还考虑了整个断裂带发生破裂形成的特大地震(9.3级)海啸时极端情况。     

影响坦帕湾水交换的三种因素

本文利用高分辨率数值模型,以2001年秋季为例,详细分析了影响坦帕湾水交换的三种因素:潮汐、河流和风。论文共设置了三组实验,驱动力分别为潮汐,潮汐和河流,潮汐、河流和风。模拟结果显示:只有潮汐作用时,由于坦帕湾潮汐较弱,潮程较短,坦帕湾与其临近海域的水交换主要发生在湾口附近;当潮汐和河流共同作用时,由于河流和湾口海水盐度的不同形成了水平密度梯度,在其产生的水平密度梯度力的作用下,坦帕湾形成了表层流向湾外、底层流向湾内的重力环流,从而加强了坦帕湾跟其临近海域的水交换;由湾内指向湾外方向(2001年秋季平均)的风应力加强了流向湾外的表层流,同时水位梯度力发生了反转,变成了由湾口指向湾顶,这加强了流向湾内的底层流,表层流和底层流的加强最终促进了坦帕湾跟其临近海域的水交换;在航道处,水深较深瑞利数较大,该处的重力环流较强,这使得相对于两侧的浅水区,航道处的水交换能力较强。此外,文章还分析了坦帕湾水交换的空间差异,在Old Tampa Bay的西侧和北侧,滞留时间最长,水交换能力最弱。为减少海洋生态灾害发生,今后应重点加强对该地区的生态环境保护。     

2010年智利和2011年日本海啸在华南沿岸的实测海啸波形和特征

文章根据三亚湾和台山广海湾实测水位数据,分析了2010年智利和2011年日本海啸在中国近岸传播的海啸波形。通过与2个深海海啸观测浮标(DART)观测到的海啸波形对照,采用功率谱分析和小波分析技术,研究远场海啸在中国华南沿岸的海啸波特征和传播规律。在2次事件中,海啸波通过巴士海峡进入中国南海后,大约3~4h到达华南沿岸。地形效应是决定海啸波能量的重要因素,特定周期的海啸波得到选择性增强。海啸波在近岸海湾持续时间长达2~3d,海啸波周期越长,持续时间越久。2次海啸事件均未对我国沿海造成灾害性影响,但是通过海啸波形的对比分析,能够更好地了解南海北部地形对海啸波的响应特征,为防范海啸提供借鉴。     

Numerical analysis on water exchange and its response to the coastal engineering in the Yueqing Bay in China

On the basis of a numerical model of tidal current using Delft3D, the distribution of the semi - exchange time of water was simula- ted in the Yueqing Bay here. The result showed that the semi - exchange time was about more than 6 d in the bay end, and about 1～2 d in the bay mouth. Besides, based on the calculation of the semi - exchange time before and after the Xuanmen Dam pro- ject, a comparison between them was further carried out. And the same work was also done with the recent reclamation projects in the Yueqing Bay as well. The results showed that the change in semi - exchange time caused by the Xuanmen Dam project was a- bout 6 d increase near the dam and 4.5 d increase at the bay end. And it was about 5 d increase at the bay end and 1 d increase at the mouth of the bay caused by the recent reclamation projects.     

Changes of seawater quality in Ofunto Bay,Iwate, after the 2011 off the Pacific coast of Tohoku Earthquake

Ofunato Bay was a semi-closed area because of the breakwater effect at the entrance; however, the breakwater was destroyed by a massive tsunami generated by the 2011 off the Pacific coast of Tohoku Earthquake. Consequently, the physical environment of Ofunato Bay has been changed significantly, i.e., the modification of the stratified structure of seawater inside the bay and the intermittent intrusion of seawater outside the bay. These alterations of physical environment are considered to have an influence on the chemical and biological environment in Ofunato Bay. To elucidate the influence of the tsunami on the aquatic environment, we measured dissolved nutrients, chlorophyll a and dissolved oxygen concentrations, and heterotrophic bacteria abundance inside and outside of Ofunato Bay from 2012 to 2014, and compared these data with those obtained before the earthquake. As compared with before the earthquake, significant changes after the earthquake were (1) decrease of ammonium and phosphate concentrations, (2) increase of chlorophyll a concentration, (3) increase of dissolved oxygen concentration in the bottom, and (4) decrease of heterotrophic bacteria abundance. The collapse of the breakwater and consequential enhanced water exchange were considered to have brought the decrease of nutrient concentration inside the bay. Furthermore, washout of shellfish mariculture rafts by the tsunami decreased the shellfish biodeposits along with the elution of nutrients by heterotrophic bacteria. Decrease of cultivated shellfish further caused a decline in feeding pressure on phytoplankton and, subsequently, increased the phytoplankton biomass that contributed to the decrease of nutrients inside the bay.     

浙江乐清湾海岸带功能区划分与海洋产业发展

乐清湾为浙江省重点海湾之，资源的多宜性与不同行业开发利用的矛盾冲突是当前海湾可持续发展面I临的主要障碍。本文从乐清湾海岸带地区的自然环境与社会经济条件出发，探讨了开展海岸带功能区划的必要性，提出了区划的基本方案。在分析乐清湾海岸带地区海洋产业发展现状与问题的基础上，运用层次分析法研究了该湾近期海洋产业的发展方向与主导产业。最后，讨论了实现海洋产业协调发展的若干对策与建议。     

乐清湾近期海岸演变研究

乐清湾是一个与东海相通的半封闭型强潮海湾。通过对1934,1968和1992年的海图对比研究表明:近期乐清湾各等深线所围水域面积持续减小。后一阶段,围垦使岸线推进速度加快,滩涂面积由前一阶段的不断增加转变为不断减小。1934到1968年,西南部最大潮滩华岐潮滩岸线和零米线平均外推速率分别为4.88m/a和13.24m/a;1968到1992年平均淤进速率分别为6.17m/a和8.08m/a。实地采样分析表明:表层水样平均悬沙浓度为0.1043kg/m3,从湾顶向湾口呈不断增加的趋势。悬沙浓度虽较低,但湾内处于低能动力沉积环境,有利于细颗粒沉积物落淤,这是湾内地貌演变的要因。长江入海南移和陆架区再悬浮的细颗粒物质是乐清湾主要的泥沙来源。泥沙自然淤积和人类活动影响是近期乐清湾大部分岸线处于淤进状态的原因。漩门二期工程前后乐清湾的纳潮量减小了5.73%,落潮流相对携沙能力降低为工程前的79%。而根据实测落潮平均流速计算得围垦后落潮流的相对携沙能力减弱为原来的54%。而从1934年到漩门二期围垦工程后,纳潮量减小了22.57%。开辟盐田和围垦造陆工程等人类活动,对海岸演变的影响显著。     

Origin of theAbiki phenomenon (a kind of seiche) in Nagasaki Bay

Large oscillations of water level in Nagasaki Bay are calledAbiki and are most frequently observed in winter. The largestAbiki recorded in the past 20 years at the tide station at Nagasaki occurred on March 31, 1979. Simultaneously, a distinct atmospheric pressure disturbance of solitary type with an amplitude of about 3 mb was recorded at several neighbouring stations in Kyûshû, which indicated the pressure disturbance probably travelled eastward with an average speed of about 110 km h^–1.The quantitative relation between this pressure disturbance and notable seiches observed in Nagasaki Bay is examined by means of numerical simulation, and it is confirmed that the exceptionally large range of oscillations in the bay, which reached 278 cm at the tide station, was indeed produced by this travelling pressure disturbance.The leading part of shallow water waves induced by the atmospheric pressure disturbance was amplified up to about 10 cm in amplitude, over the broad continental shelf region off China, because of near resonant coupling to the pressure disturbance. After leaving this continental shelf region, the amplified water wave converged into the shelf region (Gotô Nada) surrounded by the north-western coast of Kyûshû and the Gotô Islands and excited eigenoscillations on the shelf. A train of waves thus formed with a period of about 35 min entered Nagasaki Bay and was resonantly amplified at periods of 36 min and 23 min which are the eigen periods of the bay. Besides resonance, the combined effects of shoaling and reflection inside Nagasaki Bay also enhanced the amplification.     

浙江乐清湾现代沉积与悬沙质量浓度分布特征及意义

通过对乐清湾野外考察、表层沉积物的粒度分析和水样的悬沙质量浓度分析，探讨了乐清湾现代沉积和悬沙质量浓度分布特征。研究结果表明，乐清湾现代沉积主要以细颗粒沉降为主，粉沙和粘土总含量占90％以上；悬沙质量浓度具有从湾口向湾内递减的变化趋势，湾口悬沙质量浓度为0．2～0．25kg／m^3，而湾内质量浓度小于0．01kg／m^3。半封闭性海湾和以外海来沙为主的物质来源共同决定沉积物的特征及悬沙质量浓度的空间变化规律，而泥沙来源及沉积过程的研究将为港湾治理工程提供重要的依据参数。     

乐清湾2009年夏季浮游动物种类组成和数量分布

2009-08对乐清湾进行了生物调查。共鉴定浮游动物66种,浮游幼虫15类,分为半咸水河口类群、近海暖温带类群、近海暖水类群和大洋广布类群,其中近海暖水类群占主导地位。Ⅰ型网主要优势种有针刺拟哲水蚤、汤氏长足水蚤、太平洋纺锤水蚤、刺尾纺锤水蚤等;Ⅱ型网主要优势种有针刺拟哲水蚤、强额拟哲水蚤、太平洋纺锤水蚤、刺尾纺锤水蚤、短角长腹剑水蚤、简长腹剑水蚤、小长腹剑水蚤等。浮游动物优势种分布有明显差别,太平洋纺锤水蚤分布仅限于湾顶海区,小长腹剑水蚤密集区也在此区域,其它优势种则分布于乐清湾中部和湾口海区。浮游动物平均生物量为125.05mg/m3,平均丰度为234.00个/m3,数量分布呈现出从湾顶向湾口逐渐降低的趋势。     

Analysis of the Tsunami of December 26, 2004, on the Kerala Coast of India—Part I: Amplitudes

The Indian Ocean tsunami of December 26, 2004, not only affected the Bay of Bengal coast of India but also part of the Arabian Sea coast of India. In particular, the tsunami caused loss of life and heavy damage on some parts of the Kerala coast in southwest India. The tsunami traveled west, south of Sri Lanka, and some of the tsunami energy was diffracted around Sri Lanka and the southern tip of India and moved northward into the Arabian Sea. However, tsunami, being a long gravity wave with a wave length of a few hundred kilometers, has to take a wide turn. In that process, it missed the very southern part of the Kerala coast and did not achieve large amplitudes there. However, further north, the tsunami achieved amplitudes of upto 5 m and caused loss of life and significant damage. Here we identify the physical oceanographic processes that were responsible for selective amplification of the tsunami in certain locations.     

Analysis of the Tsunami of December 26, 2004, on the Kerala Coast of India—Part I: Amplitudes

The Indian Ocean tsunami of December 26, 2004, not only affected the Bay of Bengal coast of India but also part of the Arabian Sea coast of India. In particular, the tsunami caused loss of life and heavy damage on some parts of the Kerala coast in southwest India. The tsunami traveled west, south of Sri Lanka, and some of the tsunami energy was diffracted around Sri Lanka and the southern tip of India and moved northward into the Arabian Sea. However, tsunami, being a long gravity wave with a wave length of a few hundred kilometers, has to take a wide turn. In that process, it missed the very southern part of the Kerala coast and did not achieve large amplitudes there. However, further north, the tsunami achieved amplitudes of upto 5 m and caused loss of life and significant damage. Here we identify the physical oceanographic processes that were responsible for selective amplification of the tsunami in certain locations.     

Estimation of the offshore form of tsunami waves

Estimation of the offshore form of tsunami waves based on an observed tidegage record at a bay head is attempted by means of an impulse response method and a characteristics method. For several tsunamis in Onagawa Bay, the results estimated by both methods are compared with the observed data at an offshore station. The correlation coefficient between the estimated and the observed values is 0.9 to 0.95, and the present methods are proved to be practical. The validity of the characteristics method is further confirmed in the case of Ofunato Bay.