Assessing the importance of tropical cyclones on continental margin sedimentation in the Mississippi delta region

Recent research on the Mississippi margin indicates notable seasonal variation in seabed dynamics. During years with minimal tropical-system activity, sediments initially deposited from late spring to early fall are remobilized by wind-driven currents and wave energy during extra-tropical weather systems in the winter. This research reveals the profound significance of tropical cyclones on Louisiana Shelf sedimentation. The amount of material delivered to and advected across the shelf by recent tropical cyclones is considerably larger than that related to winter storm systems. In Fall 2004, the river-dominated shelf of Louisiana was impacted by three tropical systems in less than a month, including Hurricane Ivan. Ivan, with maximum sustained winds in excess of 74 m s⁻¹ (144 knots) and a minimum measured central pressure of 910 mbar, was the eighth most intense Atlantic hurricane on record at the time. In order to assess the impact these tropical systems had on the continental margin west of the Mississippi delta, seabed samples were collected from box cores in October 2004 and analyzed for particle-reactive radionuclides ²³⁴Th, ⁷Be, and ²¹⁰Pb. Radiochemical data and observations from X-radiographs indicate event-driven sediment deposits ranged from 4 to 30 cm on the shelf and 2–6 cm in the Mississippi Canyon. These deposits exhibit distinct radiochemical signatures and differ visually and texturally from the underlying sediment. The well-developed physical stratification and graded nature of the deposits observed in core X-radiographs suggests that the sediment could have been deposited from sediment-gravity flows. Inventories of ⁷Be and ⁷Be/²³⁴Th_xs ratios reveal this series of cyclones transported considerably more material to the outer shelf and slope than periods of minimal tropical-system activity. When compared to seasonal depositional rates created by winter storms, tropical-cyclone-related event deposits on the middle and outer shelf are up to an order of magnitude greater in thickness. The number and thickness of these event deposits decrease with distance from the delta and suggest that only the most severe tropical systems are likely capable of redistributing significant quantities of sediment to more distal portions of the shelf and slope. These severe-event-driven deposits may account for as much as 75% of the sediment burial budget on decadal time scales within Mississippi Canyon. Higher than average tropical cyclone activity, predicted by the National Hurricane Center over the next decade, may be the major mechanism controlling sediment transport and deposition on the Mississippi River continental shelf and in Mississippi Canyon.     

A meta‐analysis of reef island response to environmental change on the Great Barrier Reef

Reef islands on the Great Barrier Reef are influenced by a range of environmental factors. A meta‐analysis of 103 islands is presented to express variation in island size (area and volume) as a function of latitudinal and cross shelf gradients in regional oceanographic factors (exposure to incident waves, tidal range and tropical cyclone frequency) and local physical factors (position on the shelf, area, length and depth of supporting reef platform, vegetative cover). Models performed well for unvegetated sandcays (R² = 0.89), vegetated sandcays (R² = 0·72) and low wooded islands (R² = 0.78), with a moderate level of variation explained when all islands were simultaneously regressed (R² = 0.58). Future island dynamics were simulated for anticipated changes in cyclone regime, wave activity and sea level. For 38 islands mapped on the 1973 Royal Society and Universities of Queensland Expedition to the Northern Great Barrier Reef, change over the same 22 year period (1973–1995) was determined and the relative magnitude of observed and modelled changes was compared and found to be consistent through rank correlation analysis (Γ = 0.84 for unvegetated sandcays, Γ = 0.81 for vegetated sandcays). Simulations of island area or volume change from 2000 to 2100 indicated that under a 30% decrease in tropical cyclone activity, unvegetated sandcays continue to accrete at a lower rate, whereas all island types erode under a 38% increase in tropical cyclone activity. Vegetated sandcays initially accrete at higher levels of cyclone activity, entering an erosive state with a 60% increase in activity. Low wooded islands are unresponsive to environmental changes modelled. A sensitivity analysis of vegetated and unvegetated sandcays indicated that the presence of vegetation increases the tropical cyclone activity threshold at which islands begin to erode. Greatest sedimentary losses occur within the central band of high cyclone activity between Cooktown and Mackay. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Alkalinity and dissolved inorganic carbon exports from tropical and subtropical river catchments discharging to the Great Barrier Reef,Australia

Dissolved inorganic carbon (DIC) transport by rivers is an important control on the pH and carbonate chemistry of the coastal ocean. Here, we combine DIC and total alkalinity (TAlk) concentrations from four tropical rivers of the Great Barrier Reef region in Australia with daily river discharge to quantify annual river loads and export rates. DIC in the four rivers ranged from 284 to 2,639 μmol kg⁻¹ and TAlk ranged from 220 to 2,612 μmol kg⁻¹. DIC:TAlk ratios were mostly greater than one suggesting elevated exports of free [CO₂*]. This was pronounced in the Johnstone and Herbert rivers of the tropical wet north. The largest annual loads were transported in the two large river catchments of the southern Great Barrier Reef region, the Fitzroy and Burdekin rivers. The carbon stable isotopic composition of DIC suggests that carbonate weathering was the dominant source of DIC in the southern rivers, and silicate weathering was likely a source of DIC in the northern Wet Tropics rivers. Annual loads and export rates were strongly driven by precipitation and discharge patterns, the occurrence of tropical cyclones, and associated flooding events, as well as distinct seasonal dry and wet periods. As such, short-lived hydrological events and long-term (seasonal and inter-annual) variation of DIC and TAlk that are pronounced in rivers of the tropical and subtropical wet and dry climate zone should be accounted for when assessing inorganic carbon loads to the coastal ocean and the potential to buffer against or accelerate ocean acidification.     

Remote forcing of water levels by tropical cyclones in southwest Australia

Tropical cyclones (termed hurricanes and typhoons in other regions), are extreme events associated with strong winds, torrential rain and storm surges (in coastal areas) and cause extensive damage as a result of strong winds and flooding (caused by either heavy rainfall or ocean storm surges) in the immediate area of impact. The eastern Indian Ocean, particularly in the northwest region of Australia, is impacted by up to 10 tropical cyclones during the cyclone season, although direct impact of cyclones along the west and southwest coastlines is rare. However, the sub-tidal frequency component of sea level records along the west and south coasts of Western Australia indicates lagged correspondence with the occurrence of tropical cyclones. It is demonstrated that the tropical cyclones generate a continental shelf wave which travels along the west and south coasts of Australia up to 3500 km with speeds of 450–500 km day⁻¹ (5.2–5.8 ms⁻¹) with maximum trough to crest wave height of 0.63 m, comparable with the mean daily tidal range in the region. The shelf wave is identified in the coastal sea level records, initially as a decrease in water level, 1–2 days after the passage of the cyclone and has a period of influence up to 10 days. Amplitude of the shelf wave was strongly affected by the path of the tropical cyclone, with cyclones travelling parallel to the west coast typically producing the most significant signal due to resonance and superposition with local forcing. Analysis of water levels from Port Hedland, Geraldton, Fremantle and Albany together with cyclone paths over a ten year period (1988–1998) indicated that the tropical cyclones paths may be classified into 6 different types based on the amplitude of the wave.     

The cycling and fate of terrestrially-derived sediments and nutrients in the coastal zone of the Great Barrier Reef shelf

The coastal zone of the Great Barrier Reef shelf, with an area of 30,000 km(2) and a water volume of 300 km(3), receives an average annual input of sediment on the order of 14-28 Mty(-1)--an estimated two- to fourfold increase since European settlement. There is considerable concern about the impact and ultimate fate of terrestrially-derived nutrients entering the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage Area (GBRWHA). Analysis of current data suggests that microbial communities in coastal waters and in unconsolidated sediments metabolise nutrients equivalent to the entire dissolved and particulate nutrient load debouched from land. River-derived nutrients account for 40-80% of the carbon, 13-30% of the nitrogen, and 2-5% of the phosphorus necessary to support the observed rates of benthic and pelagic mineralisation in Princess Charlotte Bay in the far north, and in Rockingham Bay and Missionary Bay in the central section, of the GBRWHA. Nearly all nitrogen is ultimately returned to the atmosphere via denitrification. There is little net burial of nutrients in subtidal sediments. These budget estimates are based on a sparse data set, but it is clear that marine sources of nutrients (N-fixation by pelagic and benthic cyanobacteria) must be important, but the magnitude of these sources is poorly known and likely to be highly variable in space and time. Data from sediment trap deployments suggest that, despite significant re-suspension, sedimentation fluxes are sufficient to balance benthic mineralisation rates. Most organic material deposited to the benthos appears to be flocculent or colloidal aggregates, perhaps formed via microbial mediation and exudation of extra-cellular material. The geophysical dynamics of the coastal boundary layer plays an important role in concentrating biological and biogeochemical activity within a shallow, narrow coastal zone. Mangroves and tidal flats are small in area, but trap, transform, and store a disproportionate amount of sediment and organic matter within the GBRWHA. The highly efficient use of terrestrially-derived nutrients by benthic and pelagic microbes in the coastal zone helps to explain why coral reefs on the middle and outer shelf have remained relatively unscathed despite a significant increase in sediment delivery.     

Seagrass population dynamics and water quality in the Great Barrier Reef region: a review and future research directions

Seagrasses in the Great Barrier Reef region, particularly in coastal habitats, act as a buffer between catchment inputs and reef communities and are important habitat for fisheries and a food source for dugong and green turtle. Within the Great Barrier Reef region there are four different seagrass habitat types now recognised. The spatial and temporal dynamics of the different types of seagrass habitat is poorly understood. In general seagrass growth is limited by light, disturbance and nutrient supply, and changes to any or all of these limiting factors may cause seagrass decline. The capacity of seagrasses to recover requires either recruitment via seeds or through vegetative growth. The ability of seagrass meadows to recover from large scale loss of seagrass cover observed during major events such as cyclones or due to anthropogenic disturbances such as dredging will usually require regeneration from seed bank. Limited research into the role of pollutants on seagrass survival suggests there may be ongoing impacts due to herbicides, pesticides and other chemical contaminants. Further research and monitoring of seagrass meadow dynamics and the influence of changing water quality on these is needed to enhance our ability to manage seagrasses on the Great Barrier Reef.     

Organochlorine, Heavy Metal and Polyaromatic Hydrocarbon Pollutant Concentrations in the Great Barrier Reef (Australia) Environment: a Review

Past monitoring of heavy metals, organochlorine compounds and polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) has found that pollutant concentrations are generally low within the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park and World Heritage Area and are indicative of a relatively unpolluted environment. The exceptions are sites that are adjacent to human activity such as ports and harbours, urban centres and areas adjacent to intensive agricultural activity. These sites have elevated concentrations of a range of pollutants. Concentrations of dioxins have also been found to be elevated in marine park sediments. Elevated pollutant concentrations are generally the consequence of effluent discharge, urban stormwater, and agricultural and industrial runoff. However, a majority of Great Barrier Reef pollutant data are now dated, and contemporary information is required concerning the distribution and impact of pollutants in the Queensland marine environment. The utility of specialized monitoring tools such as biomarkers for tropical marine environments urgently needs to be examined. With this information, appropriate risk assessment and monitoring can be implemented and effective management strategies developed to protect tropical marine ecosystems including the Great Barrier Reef.     

Terrestrial discharge into the Great Barrier Reef Lagoon: nutrient behavior in coastal waters

Pollution of coastal regions of the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage Area (GBRWHA) is dominated by river discharge associated with agricultural development of the adjacent catchments. Runoff of sediment, nutrients and pesticides has sharply increased since European settlement. Since 1991 plumes from river discharge entering the GBRWHA have been mapped by aerial mapping of plume edges and concentrations of contaminants in plumes measured. Plume dispersion is governed primarily by wind speed and direction. Most plumes spread in a band up to 50 km from the coast. Particulate material discharged in the plumes is trapped within 10 km of the coast. Dissolved nutrients disperse much further and elevated nutrient concentrations are measurable at distances of hundreds of kilometres from river mouths. This differential transport of particulate versus dissolved nutrients is important for the potential effects of these materials and management of their generation on the Great Barrier Reef catchment.     

Extreme flood‐driven fluvial bank erosion and sediment loads: direct process measurements using integrated Mobile Laser Scanning (MLS) and hydro‐acoustic techniques

This methods paper details the first attempt at monitoring bank erosion, flow and suspended sediment at a site during flooding on the Mekong River induced by the passage of tropical cyclones. We deployed integrated mobile laser scanning (MLS) and multibeam echo sounding (MBES), alongside acoustic Doppler current profiling (aDcp), to directly measure changes in river bank and bed at high (~0.05 m) spatial resolution, in conjunction with measurements of flow and suspended sediment dynamics. We outline the methodological steps used to collect and process this complex point cloud data, and detail the procedures used to process and calibrate the aDcp flow and sediment flux data. A comparison with conventional remote sensing methods of estimating bank erosion, using aerial images and Landsat imagery, reveals that traditional techniques are error prone at the high temporal resolutions required to quantify the patterns and volumes of bank erosion induced by the passage of individual flood events. Our analysis reveals the importance of cyclone‐driven flood events in causing high rates of erosion and suspended sediment transport, with a c. twofold increase in bank erosion volumes and a fourfold increase in suspended sediment volumes in the cyclone‐affected wet season. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Water Quality in the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage Area: Past Perspectives, Current Issues and New Research Directions

Elevated sediment and nutrient concentrations have long been regarded as the pre-eminent water quality threats to the Great Barrier Reef, with the potential risk posed by other pollutants such as heavy metals, persistent chlorohydrocarbons, PCBs and petroleum related compounds considered to be of lesser consequence. However, the management focus on these latter types of pollutants has recently shifted to acknowledge the potential impact posed by diuron, dioxins, dieldrin, and mercury and cadmium concentrations detected in sediments and biota along the Great Barrier Reef and southern Queensland coastline. In general, these threats originate from areas dominated by intensive cropping agriculture and are exacerbated by high rainfall and erosion rates in the wet tropics region of the Queensland coast. Maintenance of long-term monitoring programmes, which utilize innovative data acquisition techniques will enable assessment of change in environmentally relevant pollutant concentrations over time. However, improved land management practices, which include an immediate minimization of vegetation clearance and responsible use of pesticides and fertilizers in Queensland are essential if water quality in the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage Area is to be maintained and protected.     

The Effect of the Great Barrier Reef on the Propagation of the 2007 Solomon Islands Tsunami Recorded in Northeastern Australia

The effect of offshore coral reefs on the impact from a tsunami remains controversial. For example, field surveys after the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami indicate that the energy of the tsunami was reduced by natural coral reef barriers in Sri Lanka, but there was no indication that coral reefs off Banda Aceh, Indonesia had any effect on the tsunami. In this paper, we investigate whether the Great Barrier Reef (GBR) offshore Queensland, Australia, may have weakened the tsunami impact from the 2007 Solomon Islands earthquake. The fault slip distribution of the 2007 Solomon Islands earthquake was firstly obtained by teleseismic inversion. The tsunami was then propagated to shallow water just offshore the coast by solving the linear shallow water equations using a staggered grid finite-difference method. We used a relatively high resolution (approximately 250 m) bathymetric grid for the region just off the coast containing the reef. The tsunami waveforms recorded at tide gauge stations along the Australian coast were then compared to the results from the tsunami simulation when using both the realistic 250 m resolution bathymetry and with two grids having fictitious bathymetry: One in which the the GBR has been replaced by a smooth interpolation from depths outside the GBR to the coast (the “No GBR” grid), and one in which the GBR has been replaced by a flat plane at a depth equal to the mean water depth of the GBR (the “Average GBR” grid). From the comparison between the synthetic waveforms both with and without the Great Barrier Reef, we found that the Great Barrier Reef significantly weakened the tsunami impact. According to our model, the coral reefs delayed the tsunami arrival time by 5–10 minutes, decreased the amplitude of the first tsunami pulse to half or less, and lengthened the period of the tsunami.     

Use of a telemetered dispensing system for controlling nutrient additions to experimental patch reefs in the ENCORE study at One Tree Island, Great Barrier Reef, Australia

A telemetrically controlled system was developed to add nutrients automatically to experimental patch reefs in a remote marine environment. The experiment, called ENCORE, was done in the lagoon of One Tree Island, a remote research station at the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef. Nutrient dispensing units (NDUs), moored adjacent to patch reefs in the lagoon, were telemetrically linked to a base station on the island. The base station, about 3 km away from the furthest NDU, consisted of a dedicated computer, controller and radio transmitter, which relayed coded signals to a radio receiver mounted on each NDU. This activated a solenoid valve to discharge a measured quantity of concentrated nutrient solution from a measuring chamber using compressed air from a SCUBA tank. The solution was discharged through 4-8 PVC outlets into the basins of the patch reefs to allow thorough mixing. The base station interrogated each NDU to find out if the operation had been successful and stored the information on disk to provide a daily log of operations. Nutrient samples taken within the patch reefs demonstrated that calculated initial mean concentrations of 2 micrograms-at PO4-P l-1 and 10 micrograms-at NH4-N l-1 were achieved. The system we have developed can be used in many situations where regular perturbations need to be introduced to aquatic ecosystems. It uses state-of-the-art technology, yet all components are commercially readily available and relatively inexpensive. Detailed specifications and drawings are available from the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority.     

Hindcasting of tropical cyclone winds and waves

Ocean Dynamics - This paper describes a series of hindcast simulations of 17 tropical cyclones over the northwest shelf region of Australia. Tropical cyclone track and vortex details were obtained...     

Estuarine modification of nutrient and sediment exports to the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park from the Daintree and Annan River catchments

Nutrient and suspended sediment concentrations were measured in the dry season and during the rising and falling stages of flood events in the Annan and Daintree rivers to estimate catchment exports. These flood events were also sampled along the salinity gradient in the estuary and nearshore shelf to quantify the modification of terrestrial sediment and nutrient loads as they pass through estuaries into the Great Barrier Reef lagoon. In the Daintree River TSS concentrations were found to increase between the catchment and the estuary plume. The source of TSS may have been scour of the estuarine channel or from land use in the catchment of the lower estuary. In the dry season nitrogen enters the Annan and Daintree estuaries predominantly in the form of PON and DON in roughly equal proportions. Nitrogen exports to the GBR are mostly in the form of DON. In the wet season the majority of nitrogen enters the estuaries as DON and leaves as PON. Nitrogen removal in the estuaries and plumes appears to be biologically mediated once suspended sediment concentrations decrease to a point where phytoplankton growth is not light limited. In the dry season phosphorus enters and leaves the estuaries primarily in organic form. PIP is the dominant form of phosphorus in river water, but leaves the estuary more evenly distributed between all forms. These estuarine processes result in less nitrogen and phosphorus being delivered to the GBR lagoon than is exported from the catchment. The differences between these estuaries highlights the need for further work to explore modifications in estuaries that drain into the Great Barrier Reef lagoon.     

The anomalous tides near Broad Sound

Observations of tidal current and height, in conjunction with theoretical mathematical models are used to investigate the propagation of the tide near Broad Sound, a narrowing estuary situated on a wide section of continental shelf toward the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef. The observations indicate that the dense offshore reefs severely inhibit tidal flow, with the result that tides flood toward Broad Sound from the north and from the south, along the main lagoon. There is a local magnification of the semi-diurnal tides within Broad Sound itself.Models of flow across reefs confirm the effectiveness of dense, shallow, and broad reefs in acting as a barrier to the tide. The diffraction of tides through large gaps in the reef is modelled using conformal mapping techniques and with the inclusion of energy leakage, the diffraction model predicts magnification of the semi-diurnal tidal heights by a factor of about 4 and a phase lag of 3 h on the shelf near Broad Sound, these values being consistent with observation. The observed convergence of the tide close to, and within Broad Sound itself is consistent with the proximity of the semi-diurnal tidal period to the natural period for flow in Broad Sound, considered as a narrowing estuary. This results in further amplification, by an additional factor of about 1.5, so that the tides in Broad Sound are increased by a factor of between 5 and 6, altogether, compared with those elsewhere on the east Australian coast.     

Luminescence dating of cyclone-induced washover fans at Point Lefroy (NW Australia)

Reliable age dating of coastal sedimentary landforms is crucial for inferring storm frequencies and magnitudes from geological archives. However, in highly energetic coastal settings, radiocarbon dating is often biased by reworking and/or poorly constrained marine reservoir effects. Due to this, most cyclone-driven sediment archives from the semiarid coast of NW Australia – a region frequently affected by tropical cyclones but with a historical record limited to ∼150 a, and therefore strongly in need of long-term data inferred from geological evidence – are affected by chronological inaccuracies. Optically stimulated luminescence dating (OSL) may overcome these shortcomings by dating the transport of sediment directly. In turn it may be related to other challenges when applied to cyclone deposits from semiarid environments. The cyclone-induced washover fans at Point Lefroy, NW Australia, are composed of a heterogeneous mixture of coral fragments, shell hash and siliciclastic sand. This makes them particularly prone to high dose scatter resulting from a combination of partial bleaching, sediment mixing and dose-rate heterogeneity. The washover fans are further characterised by a discontinuous nature of cyclone deposition, as indicated by erosional features and macroscopic brunification horizons. By using a combination of quartz single grain dating, autoradiography, alpha counting and gamma spectrometry, sediment mixing and dose rate heterogeneity are identified as the main sources of dose scatter. The resulting chronology allows us to discriminate at least four well constrained phases of washover fan activity at ∼180, ∼360, ∼870, and ∼1300 a ago. Older but less well constrained activity phases occurred ∼1950, ∼2300, and ∼2830 a ago. While these phases of increased cyclone activity correlate with depositional units separated by potential palaeosols, OSL ages, quasi-continuous portable OSL reader measurements and gamma spectrometry measured with increased sampling resolution point to deposition of distinct washover units within a very short period of time. However, unambiguous discrimination between deposition of individual units by single events and deposition by several cyclones within periods of only a few decades is currently not possible.     

Assessing the additive risks of PSII herbicide exposure to the Great Barrier Reef

Herbicide residues have been measured in the Great Barrier Reef lagoon at concentrations which have the potential to harm marine plant communities. Monitoring on the Great Barrier Reef lagoon following wet season discharge show that 80% of the time when herbicides are detected, more than one are present. These herbicides have been shown to act in an additive manner with regards to photosystem-II inhibition. In this study, the area of the Great Barrier Reef considered to be at risk from herbicides is compared when exposures are considered for each herbicide individually and also for herbicide mixtures. Two normalisation indices for herbicide mixtures were calculated based on current guidelines and PSII inhibition thresholds. The results show that the area of risk for most regions is greatly increased under the proposed additive PSII inhibition threshold and that the resilience of this important ecosystem could be reduced by exposure to these herbicides.     

Variation in biogeochemical parameters across intertidal seagrass meadows in the central Great Barrier Reef region

This survey provides baseline information on sediment characteristics, porewater, adsorbed and plant tissue nutrients from intertidal coastal seagrass meadows in the central region of the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage Area. Data collected from 11 locations, representative of intertidal coastal seagrass beds across the region, indicated that the chemical environment was typical of other tropical intertidal areas. Results using two different extraction methods highlight the need for caution when choosing an adsorbed phosphate extraction technique, as sediment type affects the analytical outcome. Comparison with published values indicates that the range of nutrient parameters measured is equivalent to those measured across tropical systems globally. However, the nutrient values in seagrass leaves and their molar ratios for Halophila ovalis and Halodule uninervis were much higher than the values from the literature from this and other regions, obtained using the same techniques, suggesting that these species act as nutrient sponges, in contrast with Zostera capricorni. The limited historical data from this region suggest that the nitrogen and phosphorus content of seagrass leaves has increased since the 1970s concomitant with changing land use practice.     

Field observations of wave refraction and propagation pathways on coral reef platforms

Field experiments were conducted to investigate the refraction and propagation of ocean waves across two coral reef platforms in the Maldives, central Indian Ocean. A total of seven pressure sensors were deployed on each reef to quantify temporal and spatial variations in wave characteristics across the platform surfaces. Directional wave properties were calculated from high frequency (2 Hz) wave and current records obtained at two locations on each reef and corroborate theoretically predicted propagation pathways derived from an analytical wave refraction model. Results demonstrate that reef geometry critically controls the refraction and propagation behaviour of incident swell across the reef structures. Differences in the magnitude of refraction (approximately 57° and 14°) observed on each reef can be attributed to variations in platform shape and orientation to incident waves. Results demonstrate that reef flat wave patterns define the segmentation of platform surfaces into distinctive high and low wave energy zones. Furthermore, wave focussing has been identified as a major mechanism controlling the transformation of wave energy across the reefs. Results provide the first field‐based validation of wave refraction and convergence on coral reefs and have significant implications for sedimentation processes and the formation of platform deposits. Reef configurations which promote marked wave convergence are more likely to retain sediment on the reef surface, whereas platforms that induce less refraction and changes in the direction of incident waves have a higher potential for the off‐reef evacuation of sediment over leeward reef margins. Results of wave measurements substantiate such projections and provide a first order explanation for the existence and absence of a coral cay on the two study reefs. The study presents empirical evidence of wave refraction and convergence on coral reefs and establishes a baseline for future investigations of hydrodynamic process controls on platform sedimentation and island formation. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

海南井水位对热带气旋响应特征分析

2001——2010年, 海南省地下流体观测台网记录到多次热带气旋引起的井水位抖动现象．本文以2003年7月21日强热带气旋ldquo;天鹅rdquo;和2005年9月27日台风ldquo;达维rdquo;为例, 系统地研究了这两次热带气旋引起的水位抖动变化的特征．结果表明, 经过高通滤波, 水位抖动变化图像更加明显;通过频谱分析,得知热带气旋引起的水位抖动周期为100——101 min;井水位抖动的起始时间、 幅度最大值的时间与热带气旋通过海南岛陆的时间一致, 且与热带气旋的结构特点、发展和运动过程密切相关,与井孔自身的井-含水层系统对微动态信息响应的能力也有关系．分析认为,气压振荡式升降变化和摩擦是热带气旋引起水位抖动的原因．