A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model in generalized curvilinear coordinates

Based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations in Cartesian coordinates, the equations in generalized coordinates are derived to adapt computations to irregularly shaped shorelines, such as harbors, bays and tidal inlets, and to make computations more efficient in large near-shore regions. Contravariant components of velocity vectors are employed in the derivation instead of the normal components in curvilinear coordinates or original components in Cartesian coordinates, which greatly simplifies the equations in generalized curvilinear coordinates. A high-order finite difference scheme with staggered grids in the image domain is adopted in the numerical model. The model is applied to five examples involving curvilinear coordinate systems. The results of these cases are in good agreement with analytical results, experimental data, and the results from the uniform grid model, which shows that the model has good accuracy and efficiency in dealing with the computations of nonlinear surface gravity waves in domains with complicated geometries.     

Applicability of numerical models to nonlinear dispersive waves

The applicability of three different wave-propagation models in nonlinear dispersive wave fields has been investigated. The numerical models tested here are based on three different wave theories: a fully nonlinear potential theory, a Stokes second-order theory, and a Boussinesq-type theory with an improved dispersion relation. Physical experiments and computations were conducted for wave evolutions during passage over a submerged shelf under various wave conditions. As expected, the fully nonlinear solutions agree better with the measurements than do the other solutions. Although the second-order solution has sufficient accuracy for smaller-amplitude wave cases, the truncation after the third harmonics causes significant discrepancies in wave form for larger waves. In addition, the second-order model markedly overestimates the first- and second-harmonic amplitudes in transmitted waves. The Boussinesq model provides excellent predictions of wave profile over the shelf even in larger wave cases. However, this model also overestimates the magnitudes of several higher harmonics in transmitted waves. These facts may indicate that energy transfer from bound components into free waves in these higher harmonics cannot be accurately evaluated by the Boussinesq-type equations.     

Higher order Boussinesq equations

A new form of Boussinesq-type equations accurate to the third order are derived in this paper to improve the linear dispersion and nonlinearity characteristics in deeper water. Fourth spatial derivatives in the third order terms of the equations are transformed into second derivatives and present no difficulty in numerical computations. With the increase in accuracy of the equations, the nonlinear and dispersion characteristics of the equations are of one order of magnitude higher accuracy than those of the classical Boussinesq equations. The equations can serve as a fully nonlinear model for shallow water waves. The shoaling property of the equations is also of high accuracy through shallow water to deep water by introducing an extra source term into the second order continuity equation. An approach to increase the accuracy of the nonlinear characteristics of the new equations is introduced. The expression for the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocities is a fourth order polynomial.     

A weakly dispersive edge wave model

We derive a general linear, weakly dispersive, Boussinesq-type equation that can be used to study edge waves on beaches with slow cross-shore variation of the depth and the alongshore current. The equation is more accurate than the non-dispersive shallow water equations and simpler than the fully dispersive elliptic mild slope equation (especially for a non-zero alongshore current). The improved performance of the new Boussinesq-type model is demonstrated using analytic solutions for edge waves on a plane beach with zero alongshore current.     

Numerical modeling of nonlinear water waves over heterogeneous porous beds

The transformation of nonlinear water waves over porous beds is studied by applying a numerical model based on Chen's [2006. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds. Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 132:2, 220–230] Boussinesq-type equations for highly nonlinear waves on permeable beds. The numerical model uses a high-order time-marching solution and fourth-order finite-difference schemes for discretization of first-order spatial derivatives to obtain a computational accuracy consistent with the model equations. By forcing the wave celerity and spatial porous-damping rate of the linearized model to match the exact linear theory for horizontal porous bed over a prescribed range of relative depths, the values of the model parameters are optimally determined. Numerical simulations of the damped wave propagation over finite-thickness porous layer demonstrate the accuracy of both the numerical model and governing equations, which have been shown by prior theoretical analyses to be accurate for both nominal and thick porous layers. These simulations also elucidate on the significance of the higher-order porous-damping terms and the influence of the hydraulic parameters. Application of the model to the simulation of the wave field around a laboratory-scale submerged porous mound provides a measure of its capability, as well as useful insight into the scaling of the porous-resistance coefficients. For application to heterogeneous porous beds, the assumption of weak spatial variation of the porous resistance is examined using truncated forms of the governing equations. The results indicate that the complete set of Boussinesq-type equations is applicable to porous beds of nonhomogeneous makeup.     

Numerical simulation for the two-dimensional nonlinear shallow water waves

This study deals with the general numerical model to simulate the two-dimensional tidal flow, flooding wave (long wave) and shallow water waves (short wave). The foundational model is based on nonlinear Boussinesq equations. Numerical method for modelling the short waves is investigated in detail. The forces, such as Coriolis forces, wind stress, atmosphere and bottom friction, are considered. A two-dimensional implicit difference scheme of Boussinesq equations is proposed. The low-reflection outflow open boundary is suggested. By means of this model,both velocity fields of circulation current in a channel with step expansion and the wave diffraction behind a semi-infinite breakwater are computed, and the results are satisfactory.     

Note on conservation equations for nonlinear surface waves

Euler's equations of motion in conjunction with the dynamic boundary condition are manipulated to obtain exact (and approximate) alternative momentum equations for nonlinear irrotational surface waves. The Airy and Boussinesq equations are re-derived as demonstrative examples. A fully nonlinear version of the improved Boussinesq equations is presented as a new application of the proposed equations. Further use of the equations in developing depth-integrated wave models, which are not necessarily restricted to finite depths, is also pointed out.     

Hydraulic Modeling of A Curtain-Walled Dissipater by the Coupling of RANS and Boussinesq Equations

A hybrid numerical method for the hydraulic modeling of a curtain-walled dissipater of reflected waves from breakwa-ters is presented. In this method, a zonal approach that combines a nonlinear weakly dispersive wave (Boussinesq-type equation) method and a Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) method is used. The Boussinesq-type equation is solved in the far field to describe wave transformation in shallow water. The RANS method is used in the near field to re-solve the turbulent boundary layer and vortex flows around the structure. Suitable matching conditions are enforced at the interface between the viscous and the Boussinesq region. The Coupled RANS and Boussinesq method successfully resolves the vortex characteristics of flow in the vicinity of the structure, while unexpected phenomena like wave re-reflection are effectively controlled by lengthening the Boussinesq region. Extensive results on hydraulic performance of a curtain-walled dissipater and the mechanism of dissipation of reflected waves     

Gerris在海洋大振幅内孤立波数值模拟中的应用

本文运用基于自适应网格的流体动力学开源软件Gerris,来建立基于Boussinesq近似下的二维不可压缩Euler方程组的数值模型,以模拟不同层化条件下稳定状态的完全非线性大振幅内孤立波。文中比较了完全非线性的用Gerris实现的Euler模型与弱非线性的KdV理论模型在刻画大振幅内孤立波结构及特征参数上的差异,说明在模拟大振幅内孤立波时,高阶非线性不应忽略。Euler模型模拟结果表明,完全非线性大振幅内孤立波的等密度面半宽度随深度变化,这使得基于KdV方程解析解、利用卫星SAR(Synthetic Aperture Radar)图像提取内孤立波极值间距来反演内波振幅的可行性存疑,需要重新评估。此外,本文用两组实测数据验证了用Gerris实现的Euler模型模拟大振幅内波的有效性。     

Simulation of nonlinear wave run-up with a high-order Boussinesq model

This paper considers the numerical simulation of nonlinear wave run-up within a highly accurate Boussinesq-type model. Moving wet–dry boundary algorithms based on so-called extrapolating boundary techniques are utilized, and a new variant of this approach is proposed in two horizontal dimensions. As validation, computed results involving the nonlinear run-up of periodic as well as transient waves on a sloping beach are considered in a single horizontal dimension, demonstrating excellent agreement with analytical solutions for both the free surface and horizontal velocity. In two horizontal dimensions cases involving long wave resonance in a parabolic basin, solitary wave evolution in a triangular channel, and solitary wave run-up on a circular conical island are considered. In each case the computed results compare well against available analytical solutions or experimental measurements. The ability to accurately simulate a moving wet–dry boundary is of considerable practical importance within coastal engineering, and the extension described in this work significantly improves the nearshore versatility of the present high-order Boussinesq approach.     

Boussinesq相位解析的海岸水动力学数学模型研究进展

由于在平衡计算效率和精度上具有优势,Boussinesq相位解析数学模型研究不断取得突破,已成为波浪和水流精细化模拟的较优解析方式,为海岸工程、环境、地质等问题提供了实用和高效的研究手段。本文对已有Boussinesq类模型的研究进行了评述,深入探讨其重要发展、实际应用和理论瓶颈,从高阶非静压修正、GPU准三维高性能算法编译、波浪破碎和泥沙运移沉积等4个方面提出未来可能的科学突破方向。     

A new kind of nonlinear mild-slope equation for combined refraction-diffraction of multifrequency waves

This paper presents the numerical solution of a new nonlinear mild-slope equation governing waves with different frequency components propagating in a region of varying water depth. There are two new nonlinear equations. The linear part of the equations is the mild-slope equation, and one of the models has the same non-linearity as the Boussinesq equations. The new equations are directly applicable to the problems of nonlinear wave-wave interactions over variable depth. The equations are first simplified with the parabolic approximation, and then solved numerically with a finite difference method. The Crank-Nicolson method is used to discretize the models. The numerical models are applied to a set of published experimental cases, which are nonlinear combined refraction-diffraction with generation of higher harmonic waves. Comparison of the results shows that the present models generally predict the measurements better than other nonlinear numerical models which have been applied to the data set.     

A Numerical Model of Nonlinear Wave Propagation in Curvilinear Coordinates

For the simulation of the nonlinear wave propagation in coastal areas with complex boundaries,a numerical model is developed in curvilinear coordinates. In the model,the Boussinesq-type equations including the dissipation terms are employed as the governing equations. In the present model,the dependent variables of the transformed equations are the free surface elevation and the utility velocity variables,instead of the usual primitive velocity variables. The introduction of utility velocity variables which...     

On using Boussinesq-type equations near the shoreline: a note of caution

We briefly analyze some characteristics of the behavior in very shallow waters i.e. near the shoreline of high-order (dispersive-nonlinear) Boussinesq-type equations. By using the Carrier and Greenspan (1958) solution as test flow conditions we illustrate the behavior of both purely dispersive and dispersive-nonlinear contributions near the shoreline. It is also shown that Boussinesq-type equations can be more usefully handled in the swash zone if written in terms of the total water depth.     

含强水流高阶Boussinesq水波方程

采用摄动法并利用已建立的纯波情况下高阶Boussinesq方程,建立了可以考虑强水流与波浪相互作用的高阶Boussinesq方程.水流速度与波浪群速具有相同量级,且随时间和空间的变化尺度远大于波浪周期和波长.方程色散性近似到[4/4]阶Pade展开,对浅水情况方程可以是完全非线性的,可适用于波流相互作用的强非线性问题.通过将水流存在时波长和波幅的结果与一阶斯托克斯波结果对比,讨论了具有不同近似程度的3种含波流相互作用的Boussinesq方程的适用性.     

An explicit finite difference model for simulating weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive waves over slowly varying water depth

In this paper, a modified leap-frog finite difference (FD) scheme is developed to solve Non linear Shallow Water Equations (NSWE). By adjusting the FD mesh system and modifying the leap-frog algorithm, numerical dispersion is manipulated to mimic physical frequency dispersion for water wave propagation. The resulting numerical scheme is suitable for weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive waves propagating over a slowly varying water depth. Numerical studies demonstrate that the results of the new numerical scheme agree well with those obtained by directly solving Boussinesq-type models for both long distance propagation, shoaling and re-fraction over a slowly varying bathymetry. Most importantly, the new algorithm is much more computationally efficient than existing Boussinesq-type models, making it an excellent alternative tool for simulating tsunami waves when the frequency dispersion needs to be considered.     

Derivation and application of new equations for radiation stress and volume flux

In this paper, new expressions of radiation stress and volume flux for long waves have been analytically derived by inclusion of higher-order surface elevations up to the sixth-order. To quantify these expressions, surface elevations along a beach are first simulated using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model COULWAVE. Then, based on the large amount of numerical data, new equations for radiation stress and volume flux are statistically formulated. The research unveils the essential roles of the Ursell parameter, Irribarren number and wave steepness described by the local wave height, wave length and bottom slope. The study shows the importance of nonlinear wave properties in wave-induced currents and mean water levels (set-up/down). The higher-order formulations produce lower values for radiation stress and volume flux than calculated from the lower-order and linear waves. Case studies suggest that the new formulations produce an accurate estimation for mean water level. However, improvement on the computed current profiles is marginal for some cases. This implies that the accurate prediction of the current profile would require more than just the proposed improvement of the radiation stress and volume flux.     

A New Approach to High-Order Boussinesq-Type Equations with Ambient Currents

A new approach to high-order Boussinesq-type equations with ambient currents is presented. The current velocity is assumed to be uniform over depth and of the same magnitude as the shallow water wave celerity. The wave velocity field is expressed in terms of the horizontal and vertical wave velocity components at an arbitrary water depth level. Linear operators are introduced to improve the accuracy of the kinematic condition at the sea bottom. The dynamic and kinematic conditions at the free surface are expressed in terms of wave velocity variables defined directly on the free surface. The new equations provide high accuracy of linear properties as well as nonlinear properties from shallow to deep water, and extend the applicable range of relative water depth in the case of opposing currents.     

关于Boussinesq型水波方程理论和应用研究的综述

Boussinesq型方程是研究水波传播与演化问题的重要工具之一,本文就1967-2018年常用的Boussinesq型水波方程从理论推导和数值应用两个方面进行了回顾,以期推动该类方程在海岸(海洋)工程波浪水动力方向的深入研究和应用。此类方程推导主要从欧拉方程或Laplace方程出发。在一定的非线性和缓坡假设等条件下,国内外学者建立了多个Boussinesq型水波方程,并以Stokes波的相关理论为依据,考察了这些方程在相速度、群速度、线性变浅梯度、二阶非线性、三阶非线性、波幅离散、速度沿水深分布以及和(差)频等多方面性能的精度。将Boussinesq型水波方程分为水平二维和三维两大类,并对主要Boussinesq型水波方程的特性进行了评述。进而又对适合渗透地形和存在流体分层情况下的Boussinesq型水波方程进行了简述与评论。最后对这些方程的应用进行了总结与分析。     

Tsunami generation,propagation, and run-up with a high-order Boussinesq model

In this work we extend a high-order Boussinesq-type (finite difference) model, capable of simulating waves out to wavenumber times depth kh < 25, to include a moving sea-bed, for the simulation of earthquake- and landslide-induced tsunamis. The extension is straight forward, requiring only an additional term within the kinematic bottom condition. As first test cases we simulate linear and nonlinear surface waves generated from both positive and negative impulsive bottom movements. The computed results compare well against earlier theoretical, numerical, and experimental values. Additionally, we show that the long-time (fully nonlinear) evolution of waves resulting from an upthrusted bottom can eventually result in true solitary waves, consistent with theoretical predictions. It is stressed, however, that the nonlinearity used far exceeds that typical of geophysical tsunamis in the open ocean. The Boussinesq-type model is then used to simulate numerous tsunami-type events generated from submerged landslides, in both one and two horizontal dimensions. The results again compare well against previous experiments and/or numerical simulations. The new extension compliments recently developed run-up capabilities within this approach, and as demonstrated, the model can therefore treat tsunami events from their initial generation, through their later propagation, and final run-up phases. The developed model is shown to maintain reasonable computational efficiency, and is therefore attractive for the simulation of such events, especially in cases where dispersion is important.