ON LONG-WAVE BREAKING Ⅰ.CONSIDERING nTH POWER BOTTOM FRICTION

Longwave breaking is the agent for many important upper ocean layer processes including the trans-fer of horizontal momentum. In a previous study on the process of longwave breaking, only linear bot-tom friction was considered.In this paper, we discuss the longwave breaking phenomena in the moregeneral case of nth power bottom friction. Using the theory of blowup of solution,the criterion for thetime and location of the longwave breaking can be obtained.     

On Long-waves breaking II. in a half infinite channel with bottom slope

The propagation of long-waves, such as tidal waves from the coastal ocean into shallow estuarine waters, often produces asymmetries of velocity and water level in time series resulting in long-wave breaking. Tian (1994) studied the mechanism of long-wave breaking in an infinite channel with constant depth, consideringnth power bottom friction. This study is for the case of a half infinite channel with bottom slope, taking linear bottom friction into account. The wave breaking time and wave breaking location are estimated and the criteria for long-wave breaking in this particular case are obtained. The results obtained can also be easily applied to the case considering wind stress.     

Study of long-wave breaking

This paper reports study on the mechanism of long-wave breaking in a one-dimensional open chan-nel,without bottom friction,or with linear bottom friction.In general,the wave breaking phenomenon is related to the notion of"blow-up of solution"and can be studied by using the blow-up theory of par-tial differential equations(PDE).A pair of Riemann invariants are introduced to transform the governingequations into ordinary differential equations(ODE)along the characteristic directions of the governingequations.From the properties of the solutions of the ODE,the time and location of wave breakingare estimated and the criterion of long-wave breaking for the case with linear bottom friction is obtained.     

ON LONG-WAVES BREAKING Ⅱ.IN A HALF INFINITE CHANNEL WITH BOTTOM SLOPE

The propagation of long-waves, such as tidal waves from the coastal oceam into shallow estuarine waters,often produces asymmetries of veolcity and water level in time series resulting in long-wave breaking.Tian (1994) studied the mechanism of long-wave breaking in an infinite channel with constant depth,considering nth power bottom friction. This study is for the case of a half infinite channel with bottomslope, taking linear bottom friction into account. The wave breaking time and wave breaking location areestimated and the criteria for long-wave breaking in this particular case are obtained. The results obtainedcan also be e asily applied to the case considering wind stress.     

Observations and modeling of incoming longwave radiation to snow beneath forest canopies in the west Tianshan Mountains,China

Forest canopy reduces shortwave radiation and increases the incoming longwave radiation to snowpacks beneath forest canopies. Furthermore, the effect of forest canopy may be changed by complex topography. In this paper, we measured and simulated the incoming longwave radiation to snow beneath forest at different canopy openness in the west Tianshan Mountains, China(43°16'N, 84°24'E) during spring 2013. A sensitivity study was conducted to explore the way that terrain influenced the incoming longwave radiation to snow beneath forest canopies. In the simulation model, measurement datasets, including air temperature, incoming shortwave radiation above canopy, and longwave radiation enhanced by adjacent terrain, were applied to calculate the incoming longwave radiation to snow beneath forest canopy. The simulation results were consistent with the measurements on hourly scale and daily scale. The effect of longwave radiation enhanced by terrain was important than that of shortwave radiation above forest canopy with different openness except the 20% canopy openness. The longwave radiation enhanced due to adjacent terrain increases with the slope increase and temperature rise. When air temperature(or slope) is relatively low, thelongwave radiation enhanced by adjacent terrain is not sensitive to slope(or air temperature), but the sensitivity increases with the decrease of snow cover area on sunny slope. The effect of longwave radiation is especially sensitive when the snow cover on sunny slope melts completely. The effect of incoming shortwave radiation reflected by adjacent terrain on incoming longwave radiation to snow beneath forest canopies is more slight than that of the enhanced longwave radiation.     

A New Multigrid 3D-VAR Optimization Method for Bottom Friction Using HF Radar Current Observation

This paper proposes a new method for data assimilation of the surface radial current observed by High Frequency ground wave radar and optimization of the bottom friction coefficient. In this method, the shallow water wave equation is introduced into the cost function of the multigrid three-dimensional variation data assimilation method as the weak constraint term, the surface current and the bottom friction coefficient are defined as the analytical variables, and the high spatiotemporal resolution surface radial flow observed by the high-frequency ground wave radar is used to optimize the surface current and bottom friction coefficient. This method can effectively consider the spatiotemporal correlation of radar data and extract multiscale information from surface radial flow data from long waves to short waves. Introducing the shallow water wave equation into the cost function as a weak constraint condition can adjust both the momentum and mass fields simultaneously to obtain more reasonable analysis information. The optimized bottom friction coefficient is introduced into the regional ocean numerical model to carry out numerical experiments. The test results show that the bottom friction coefficient obtained by this method can effectively improve the accuracy of the numerical simulation of sea surface height in the offshore area and reduce the simulation error.     

THE DYNAMIC EFFECTS OF A FINITE DEPTH AMBIENT FLUID ON BOTTOM EDDY

Scaling analysis shows that if o(ε~2, β_1ε, γε) ~o (δ), frontal geostrophic dynamics governs the behav-ior of an isolated bottom eddy in a finite depth ambient fluid; and that the ambient flow induced bybottom eddy migration satisfies quasi-geostrophic dynamics. This two layer model includes the impor-tant processes of advection of bottom eddy due to ambient flow, baroclinic instability, and form dragintroduced by Rossby waves. The numerical results show that the three processes enhance theinstability and alter the migration speed of the bottom eddy, and that the form drag induces asignificant meridional drift of the eddy.     

Inversion calculation of the western Pacific boundary current during October, 1988

The inverse method developed by Wunsch (1978) is widely used to determine circulation in the oceans (Fu, 1980; Wunsch, Hu and Grant, 1983; Joyce and Wunsch, 1986; Rintoul, 1988). However, for inversion manipulation, measurements down to the bottom are required, and so is a certain solid boundary. In the present paper an equation of potential condition satisfied by the velocity field at the reference level is added to Wunsch's underdetermined matrix equation in order to make the method adequate for the case where measurements do not touch bottom and when a solid boundary does not exist. The western boundary current in the Pacific is calculated and examined in terms of the velocity field and transport with CTD data gathered by theR/V Science I in October 1988. Contribution No. 1748 from the Institute of Oceanology, Academia Sinica     

Determination of fractional energy loss of waves in nearshore waters using an improved high-order Boussinesq-type model

Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations. The model is first tested by the additional experimental data, and the model’s capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope is demonstrated. Then, the model’s breaking index is replaced and tested. The new breaking index, which is optimized from the several breaking indices, is not sensitive to the spatial grid length and includes the bottom slopes. Numerical tests show that the modified model with the new breaking index is more stable and efficient for the shallow-water wave breaking. Finally, the modified model is used to study the fractional energy losses for the regular waves propagating and breaking over a submerged bar. Our results have revealed that how the nonlinearity and the dispersion of the incident waves as well as the dimensionless bar height (normalized by water depth) dominate the fractional energy losses. It is also found that the bar slope (limited to gentle slopes that less than 1:10) and the dimensionless bar length (normalized by incident wave length) have negligible effects on the fractional energy losses.     

Effect of twine thickness on size-selectivity of driftnet for the yellow croaker <Emphasis Type="Italic">Larimichthys polyactis</Emphasis> in southwestern Sea of Korea

In order to determine the effect of twine thickness on the size-selectivity of the driftnet used for the yellow croaker, size-selectivity tests were conducted with three different twine thicknesses (monofilament diameters of 0.279 mm (number’s method; No. 3), 0.321 mm (No. 4), and 0.360 mm (No. 5)) of driftnets for the yellow croaker in the seas around Chooja-do, Jeju Islands. The selectivity curve was estimated by using Kitahara’s method. In order to determine the physical properties of the twine used in the experimental fishing nets, we measured the breaking load, elongation, and stiffness under both dry and wet conditions. In terms of physical properties, the thinnest twine (No. 3) had the strongest breaking strength per unit cross-sectional area, along with good elongation and excellent flexibility. The thickest twine (No. 5) had the lowest flexibility. In terms of selectivity, the net of No. 3 twine showed the broadest selection range and, thus, a relatively low selectivity compared with the other nets, while the less flexible net of No. 5 twine showed the narrowest selectivity range and high selectivity. In addition, it was found that a thicker twine resulted in a smaller haul of small fish. Therefore, it can be inferred that the thickness of the twine affects the size of the catch and selectivity, and thus the size composition of the catch as well.     

Effect of twine thickness on size-selectivity of driftnet for the yellow croaker Larimichthys polyactis in southwestern Sea of Korea

In order to determine the effect of twine thickness on the size-selectivity of the driftnet used for the yellow croaker, size-selectivity tests were conducted with three different twine thicknesses(monofi lament diameters of 0.279 mm(number's method; No. 3), 0.321 mm(No. 4), and 0.360 mm(No. 5)) of driftnets for the yellow croaker in the seas around Chooja-do, Jeju Islands. The selectivity curve was estimated by using Kitahara's method. In order to determine the physical properties of the twine used in the experimental fi shing nets, we measured the breaking load, elongation, and stiffness under both dry and wet conditions. In terms of physical properties, the thinnest twine(No. 3) had the strongest breaking strength per unit cross-sectional area, along with good elongation and excellent fl exibility. The thickest twine(No. 5) had the lowest fl exibility. In terms of selectivity, the net of No. 3 twine showed the broadest selection range and, thus, a relatively low selectivity compared with the other nets, while the less fl exible net of No. 5 twine showed the narrowest selectivity range and high selectivity. In addition, it was found that a thicker twine resulted in a smaller haul of small fi sh. Therefore, it can be inferred that the thickness of the twine affects the size of the catch and selectivity, and thus the size composition of the catch as well.     

A mechanism of the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves

A mechanism is suggested in this paper concerning the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves. According to this mechanism, a non-uniform current brings changes to the breaking criteria of short wind waves through modulating the surface drift, and hence enhances or weakens wave breaking. Some modification is proposed to the source term, which represents the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking so that the source term can incorporate this mechanism. In order to illustrate whether this mechanism is significant, a real case is studied, in which the wind waves propagate on a tidal current flowing over the sea bottom covered with sand waves. Finally, the effect of the new mechanism on the equilibrium spectrum of small scale gravity waves is discussed. Numerical estimates suggest that, for water depths less than 50 m and wavelengths less than 1 m, this current field may result in distinct spatial variations of the wave breaking criteria, the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation and the equilibrium spectrum of short gravity waves.     

The effect of wave breaking on surface wave imaging by Synthetic Aperture Radar

The effect of ocean wave breaking as a non-Bragg mechanism on backscattering cross-section and modulation transfer functions （MTF） of radar was investigated based on Bragg resonance theory and parametric method. The result showed that the additional effect of wave breaking on backscattering cross-section is not more than 20% except for the small incident angle of VV polarized electromagnetic （e.m.） wave but is significant for HH polarized e.m. wave. Breaking waves lead to increase in the modulus of tilt modulation MTF and the larger the wind speed, the faster the increase. For large incident angle, the modulus of tilt modulation MTF with wave breaking decreases quickly with incident angle for HH polarization and approach to that without wave breaking for VV polarization. The hydrodynamic MTF increases 30%-60% when considering wave breaking and the increase is larger for HH polarization than for VV polarization.     

The main phosphorous sources in the Changjiang estuary

Analysis using historical data on the phosphate sources in Changjiang （Yangtze River） estuary show that phosphate was supplied equally from the east, south, west and north of the estuary. These sources include the Changjiang River, the Taiwan Warm Current （TWC）, a cyclone-type eddy, and the 32°N Upwelling, supplying different phosphates in different times, ways and intensities. The magnitude of their supplying phosphate concentration was related with the size in the order of the Changjiang River 〈 the TWC 〈 the 32°N Upwelling 〈 the cyclone-type eddy, and the duration of the supplying was： the Changjiang River 〉 the TWC 〉 the cyclone-type eddy 〉 the 32°N Upwelling. The four sources supplied a great deal of phosphate so that the phosphate concentration in the estuary was kept above 0.2 pmol/L in previous years, satisfying the phytoplankton growth. The horizontal and vertical distribution of the phosphate concentration showed that near shallow marine areas at 122°E/31°N, the TWC in low nutrient concentration became an upwelling through sea bottom and brought up nutrients from sea bottom to marine surface. In addition, horizontal distribution of phosphate concentration was consistent with that of algae： Rhizosolenia robusta, Rhizosolenia calcaravis and Skeletonema, which showed that no matter during high water or low water of Changjiang River, these species brought by the TWC became predominant species. Therefore, the authors believe that the TWC flowed from south to north along the coast and played a role in deflecting the Changjiang River flow from the southern side.     

Study on fluxes of momentum and sensible heat,the drag coefficientC d and roughnessZ 0 *

In this paper, fluxes of momentum and sensible heat are discussed with the data collected by tethered balloon sounding system over the Philippine Sea during the cruise of the R/VSCIENCE 1 from September through October in 1987. These fluxes were calculated using the semempirical flux-profile relationships of Monin-Obkhov similarity theory with observed data. The friction velocityU. was determined by the observed data's least-square fit with the similarity formulae under stable, neutral and unstable conditions. The roughnessZ ₀ was determined byZ ₀=a₁ (U_*/g), then substituted into the similarity formulae to computeU _* again. The final values ofU _* andZ ₀ could be determined through this iteration. The flux temperatureθ _* was calculated from the temperature profile withZ ₀ determined above. Finally the fluxes of momentum and sensible heat, and the drag coefficientC _D were obtained by computation withU _* θ _* and the wind speed (U ₁₀) at 10 meters above the sea surface. Contribution No. 2220 from the Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences. This project was supported by the National Natural Science, Foundation of China (No. 049176255).     

基于单齿侵入理论的牙轮钻头钻速方程

考虑井底水平地应力、钻井流体压力及地层孔隙压力,基于单齿侵入理论推导单齿侵入井底岩石的侵深公式,建立纯滚动锥形齿、楔形齿和滚动、剪切复合运动锥形齿等牙轮钻头的钻速方程.通过实验分析刃尖角、井底液柱压力对单齿侵入深度的影响,以及转速、轴向载荷对微钻头、牙轮钻头机械钻速的影响.结果表明:随着牙齿刃尖角的增大,锥形齿和楔形齿的侵深呈指数递减趋势;随着井底液柱压力的增大,牙齿侵入深度呈指数递减趋势,其中锥形齿降低速率大.在软到中硬地层中,牙齿侵入深度大,冲击侵入、回转剪切复合破岩方式的破岩效率高;在硬度地层中,牙齿侵入深度小,纯滚动冲击侵入破岩效率高.为分析实钻时牙轮钻头的机械钻速提供计算方法.     

Numerical Study of Storm Surge Inundation in the Southwestern Hangzhou Bay Region During Typhoon Chan-Hom in 2015

Storm surge inundation is a major concern in marine hazard risk assessment during extreme weather conditions.In this study,a high-resolution coupled model(the ADVanced CIRCulation model+the Simulating WAves Nearshore model)was used to investigate the storm surge inundation in the southwestern Hangzhou Bay region during Typhoon Chan-hom in 2015.The simulated hydrodynamic processes(sea surface wave and storm tide)were validated with measured data from wave buoys and tide gauges,indicating that the overall performance of the model was satisfactory.The storm surge inundation in the coastal area was simulated for several idealized control experiments,including different wave effects(wave-enhanced wind stress,wave-enhanced bottom stress,and wave radiation stress).Dike overflowing cases with different dike heights and dike breaking cases with different dike breach lengths were considered in the simulation.The results highlight the necessity of incorporating wave effects in the accurate simulation of storm surge inundation.Dike height significantly influences the magnitude and phase of the maximum inundation area in the dike overflowing cases,and dike breach length is an important factor impacting the magnitude of the maximum inundation area in the dike breaking cases.This study may serve as a useful reference for accurate coastal inundation simulation and risk assessment.     

Experimental analysis of shear strength of undisturbed soil in leucaena forest in Jiangjia Ravine,Yunnan, China

Five leucaena trees of similar age were chosen in Jiangjia Ravine of Dongchuan, Yunnan Province, China, near which the soil samples were collected by digging profiles 2m in depth and 1m in width. In each section, soil samples at different depths were taken for direct shear experiments to determine the root amount and mechanical composition. It is found that the cohesion and internal friction angle of the undisturbed soil are related to the root amount, depth, clay content and breccias content. Cohesion correlates negatively with root content, a finding that differs from that of other researchers. In addition, internal friction angle correlates positively with all these factors.     

ON THE BEHAVIORS OF OCEAN BOTTOM EDDY

On the basis of scaling analysis,this paper presents a frontal geostrophic dynamic system which canbe used to describe the dynamics of an isolated bottom eddy and shows that five possible dynamicsubregimes are included in the system.A particle-in-cell method is used to investigate the behavior of the eddy in the two dynamic subregimes,with 1)nonlinear effect(ε)relevant to the sloping bottom-inducedbeta effect(β_1)and 2)seamount-induced beta effect(β_2)dominant.In the dynamic subregime of β_1～ ε～10~(-2)and β_2=0,the eddy can keep as a whole for a long time and migrates for a long distance.Inthe dynamic subregime where the seamount-induced beta effect (β_2～10~(-1))is dominant,the seamounttraps the water particles,causing the eddy to break up into a discrete set of eddies moving around the seamount.     

Surface heat budget and solar radiation allocation at a melt pond during summer in the central Arctic Ocean

The heat budget of a melt pond surface and the solar radiation allocation at the melt pond are studied using the 2010 Chinese National Arctic Research Expedition data collected in the central Arctic. Temperature at a melt pond surface is proportional to the air temperature above it. However, the linear relationship between the two varies, depending on whether the air temperature is higher or lower than 0℃. The melt pond surface temperature is strongly influenced by the air temperature when the latter is lower than 0℃. Both net longwave radiation and turbulent heat flux can cause energy loss in a melt pond, but the loss by the latter is larger than that by the former. The turbulent heat flux is more than twice the net longwave radiation when the air temperature is lower than 0℃. More than 50% of the radiation energy entering the pond surface is absorbed by pond water. Very thin ice sheet on the pond surface(black ice) appears when the air temperature is lower than 0℃; on the other hand, only a small percentage(5.5%) of net longwave in the solar radiation is absorbed by such a thin ice sheet.