沙坝—泻湖海岸动力地貌学研究进展

国内外对沙坝－泻湖海岸的研究主要采取动力地貌学的方法，本文评述了近一个半世纪以来在这一领域所取得的重要成果。波浪、潮汐、径流等特殊的动力场决定了泥沙输运的方式和路径，从而形成了与其相应的沙坝、泻湖、潮汐通道三大地貌体系。     

海南省万宁市小海环境变化及治理

小海位于海南省东海岸 ,由狭长的南北走向的沙坝与南海相隔 ,是一个发育良好的沙坝—泻湖式港湾。泻湖南北最大长度 2 2 km,东西最大宽度 1 4km,总面积约 49km2。泻湖水深一般在 1 .3 m (理论深度基准面 ) ,最深处可达 5m,为宽浅型泻湖。泻湖北部有一口门与海相通。 2 0世纪 70年代以前 ,口门分南北两汊 ,北汊宽约 2 80 m,南汊宽约 1 50 m。当时泻湖内外的水体交换通畅 ,口门汊道是渔船进出和泄洪的优良通道。 70年代以后 ,一些不合理的整治工程和过度的开发利用 ,造成了小海航运功能降低和水环境恶化。例如 ,2 0 0 0年 1 0月中旬 ,万宁市境…     

清澜潟湖-沙坝-潮汐通道体系的沉积环境和沉积作用

本文根据区域动力条件、沉积物平面分布和垂直层序,论述清澜潟湖-沙坝-潮汐通道体系的沉积环境和沉积作用,指出来自河流的泥沙主要沉积于潟湖湾北段;口门附近沉积物的搬运和堆积主要受潮流和波浪两大动力因素支配,口门东西两侧各存在一个沉积物的平面环状转移体系;拦湾沙坝沉积的形成主要与外海波浪的辐聚和辐散有关.     

新村港泻湖潮汐通道的形成和演变及整治初探

新村港泻湖位处海南岛东南部的陵水县,其潮汐通道是新村港泻湖与外海之间的水体相互沟通的通道,该通道自形成以来,受其口外海滨风浪、潮流作用、堆积地形以及泻湖纳潮量变化的影响,导致潮汐通道淤浅、断面缩窄、口门位置迁移等复杂变化,对潮汐通道功能的维护产生影响,也直接关系到泻湖这一重要自然资源的维护和进一步开发利用.本文对新村潮汐通道的形成与演变进行探讨,在此基础上提出整治设想,以求达到进一步发挥新村港泻湖潜在的经济效益和社会效益,并维护泻湖资源可持续发展.     

海南岛港湾演变与工程建设

海南岛沿岸多港湾，主要有3种类型的潮汐汊道型港湾：（1）沙坝-泻湖型潮汐汊道港湾主要分布在东南部海岸，以三亚港最为典型。三亚港原始岸线为基岩港湾海岸，由中生代花岗岩构成。花岗岩风化泥沙充填谷地港湾连成陆地，以沙坝-泻湖体系形式逐渐堆积成海积平原。（2）港湾型潮汐汊道主要分布在海南岛西部，起源于构造断裂带的港湾。其演化的主要因素是河流及海岸侵蚀向湾内供应的沉积物以及巨大的纳潮量形成的潮流动力。消费品流及海岸供沙使纳潮水域淤积，纳潮量相应减少，同时在口门内外形成潮流三角洲（拦门沙浅滩）。（3）溺谷型潮汐汊道主要分布在海南岛北岸、东北岸。其演化过程是：古河口溺谷，沿岸输沙发育海岸沙坝，古河口溺谷逐渐淤积衰退，潮流作用形成 口门外落潮流堆积体及涨潮带入海相细粒物质，使纳潮水域进一步淤浅缩小，目前这类汊道处于发育演化的晚期，接近汊道整体的消亡。     

冰后期海进海退和沙坝-泻湖沉积体系

沙坝—泻湖体系是我国沿岸的主要沉积单元,分布较为广泛。在冰后期海进海退中,它们随海岸线的进退而不断形成和发育。本文讨论了海进型、海退型和稳定型沙坝—泻湖体系的形成过程、识别标志、分布规律和发展方向。基于我国的实例,对有关沙坝—泻湖体系的一些文献作了简要述评和讨论。     

粤东后江湾沙坝—泻湖海岸系统的演变及动力分析

本文根据钻孔资料及海图对比，对粤东后江湾沙坝－泻湖海岸系统的形成和发展过程进行了初步探讨，在此基础上，分析了该系统近代演变的动力作用及泥沙运动。     

旅游开发活动对沙坝-潟湖景观稳定性的影响分析——以广西北海银滩沙坝-潟湖景观为例

以北海银滩两组沙坝—潟湖景观的旅游开发为例,基于1990,2000和2003年的遥感数据和GIS技术,研究旅游开发活动对沙坝—潟湖景观稳定性的影响。研究结果表明,1)目前沙坝(滩)用于旅游开发,人类活动作用下加速岸滩的蚀退和潟湖的淤积,使沙坝—潟湖景观体系走向衰退。2)人类活动作用下两组沙坝—潟湖景观呈同步变化,海岸景观生态过程与联系使得整体的演变效应明显扩大。3)旅游活动影响下的沙坝——潟湖景观格局的稳定性主要取决于旅游经济活动对沙坝——潟湖景观的合理利用。研究结果可为沙坝—潟湖景观和海滩旅游度假区的旅游开发及生态管理提供参考和借鉴。     

山东荣成天鹅湖沙坝水下岸坡地貌冲淤演变分析

山东荣成天鹅湖是一个典型的潟湖-沙坝系统。自20世纪80年代以来, 因受人类活动的影响, 天鹅湖环境系统发生了改变, 沙坝侵蚀后退严重。研究水下岸坡的冲淤对于认识潟湖-沙坝系统演变, 以及保护天鹅湖环境具有重要意义。本文以天鹅湖东侧沙坝水下岸坡为研究区域, 基于1960年至2014年的海图资料, 采用地理信息技术, 获得了天鹅湖东侧近岸海域多年水深数据, 进而分析了1960年以来天鹅湖东侧沙坝地区的等深线变化、冲淤变化以及固定剖面的地形变化。结果表明: 1960—1980年等深线整体向海推移, 而1980—2014年等深线向海推移趋势变缓, 1960—2014年潮汐通道口门处0m等深线向岸退缩了126.70m。天鹅湖水下岸坡在1960—1980年整体处于淤积的状态, 年淤积率为3.60cm∙a^-1; 1980—2014年侵蚀面积显著增大, 且呈现冲淤相间分布的特点, 年淤积率为0.79cm·a^-1。天鹅湖沙坝水下岸坡呈现上陡下缓的形态, 且潮汐通道口门北侧比南侧更易受到侵蚀。人类活动改变了天鹅湖的环境状态, 导致了天鹅湖水下岸坡的局部侵蚀后退。     

芝罘连岛沙坝北端封闭泻湖成因与发育过程

芝罘连岛沙坝北端泻湖是６０００ａ Ｂ．Ｐ．以来海平面变化过程中的产物，其形成受海平面变化，气候变化，海岸古环境与近岸物质迁移的影响，泻湖附近地貌发育经历了水下沙嘴，砾石堤发育，封闭泻湖形成４个阶段。     

Feedback between tidal hydrodynamics and morphological changes induced by natural process and human interventions in a wave-dominated tidal inlet: Xiaohai, Hainan, China

The feed back between morphological evolution and tidal hydrodynamics in a wave-dominated tidal inlet,Xiaohai,China is investigated through data analysis and numerical model experiments.His-torically,Xiaohai Inlet had two openings,located at the north and south of Neizhi Island(a rocky outcrop),respectively.The evolution of Xiaohai Inlet was dominated by the natural process before 1972.In addition to the natural process,human interventions,including the closure of the north opening,50% of fresh water reduction,and increase of land reclamation,have altered tidal hydrodynamics and morphological evolution since 1972.A series of numerical model simulations were conducted to investigate the influence of morphological changes on the hydrodynamics and the influence of human activities on the inlet evolution.The natural process has caused narrowing and shoaling of the inlet throat,development of theflood-tidal delta,and shoaling of the tidal channel in side the lagoon.Human intervention shave accelerated these changes.Consequently,the tidal propagation from the offshore into the lagoon has been impeded and the tidal energy has been dissipated substantially.Tidal current has changed from ebb-dominant to flood-dominant in most parts of the inlet system where as the inlet throat has remained as ebb-dominant,the tidal prism has decreased consistently,and sediment has continued to deposit in side the inlet.As a result,the changes of morphology,hydrodynamics,and sediment transport show a positive feedback.The human interventions have had both advantageous and adverse influences on the stability of the inlet.The closure of the North Opening has decreased the longshore sediment input to the inlet,and increased the tidal prism,ebb velocity,and sediment transport in the south opening,thus enhancing the inlet’sstability.However,reducing the river discharge and landfill of the tidal flats has resulted in a decrease of the tidal prism,the ebb velocity,and the ability to export sediment,thus having the tendency to deteriorate the inlet’sstability.As tability analysis based on a closure curve methodology has shown that Xiaohai Inlet is in a state of dynamic equilibrium at present.     

海南岛东海岸小海澙湖水文基本特征

小海是位于海南岛东海岸的一个典型湖。通过对小海湖的水文调查研究，较系统地掌握了湖潮汐、潮流、余流、盐度和泥沙的特征。湖水深虽小，但在口门一带的盐度分布及表、底层流流速、流向的差别却较大，存在类似入海河口的缓混合及纵向环流的现象。     

粤西博贺沙坝潟湖海岸体系形成发育与现代演变

粤西博贺湾地区发育一典型的沙坝潟湖海岸体系。通过对比分析,1932~2000年,博贺潟湖面积减少45.3%,人类活动已成为影响该区海岸演变的主导因素;滩涂围垦、海岸采沙与水产养殖等人类活动加剧了沙坝海岸的侵蚀后退,且使得潟湖面积迅速减少,不断淤浅萎缩,大大加快了海岸体系的演化进程。根据钻孔地层剖面和14C测年资料分析,对该区沉积环境演变过程的研究结果表明,自晚更新世中期以来,博贺沙坝潟湖海岸体系经历了初步形成、遭受破坏、再次形成、发育、现代演变等5个主要阶段。     

Fish fauna recovery in a newly re-flooded Mediterranean coastal lagoon

Drana Lagoon, located at the NW site of Evros River Delta, was drained in 1987 and re-flooded in 2004 within the framework of an integrated wetland restoration project. This study presents the results of a monitoring program of the lagoon's oceanographic, water quality and fish fauna characteristics, during the pre- and post-restoration period. Results depict the presence of high salinity water (up to 41) due to seawater intrusion, strong evaporation in its interior and inadequate freshwater inflows. Overall, nutrient levels were low depicting local changes. Tidal variability at the mouth was approximately 0.2 m, producing high velocity tidal currents (up to 0.75 m/s). Eleven fish fauna species were collected; seven species were caught in both the inlet channel and the lagoon during the pre-restoration period and nine species in the post-restoration period. Atherina boyeri (37.6%) and Pomatoschistus marmoratus (31.7%) dominated the lagoon during the post-restoration period. Most of the A. boyeri specimens (88.5%) were caught inside the lagoon, while P. marmoratus had an almost equal distribution in the inlet channel and the lagoon (56.3% and 43.7% respectively). The presence of species of the Mugilidae family (5.2% total average catches after lagoon re-flooding) was mainly in the inlet channel (12.6% of the average catches) and not inside the lagoon (only 1.3% of the average catches). The small number of fish species inhabiting the lagoon might be the result of the recent restoration or it could be related with the increased water flow observed at the lagoon mouth during the flood and ebb tidal phases, and also in the presence of a smooth bank in the concrete waterspout that connects the entrance channel with the lagoon. The limited presence of the Mugilidae juveniles inside the lagoon could be related to the prevailing tidal inlet dynamics (i.e. strong ebb flow at lagoon inlet), thus preventing the species to enter the lagoon. In order to restore the lagoon environment, careful and gradual steps should be undertaken under the basis of continuous monitoring of hydrologic, environmental and fisheries system's status.     

Spatial and temporal variations of sedimented organic matter in Xiaohai Lagoon, Hainan Island

The characteristics of grain-size,total organic carbon(TOC) and total nitrogen(TN) contents,TOC/TN ratios,stable carbon isotope(δ13C) and 210 Pb dating were measured in six sediment cores from the Xiaohai Lagoon.The results show distinct spatial and temporal variations in sedimentation patterns.The sediments are dominated by clayey silt,sandy silt and by silty sand in the southern,middle lagoon and the northern lagoon,respectively.TOC and TN contents decline from south to north.Sedimentation rates,determined by 210 Pb dating,tend to decrease from south to middle.However,the determination of sedimentation rate in the north is difficult.These spatial variations are related to the variations in sediment sources and hydrodynamic conditions in the Xiaohai Lagoon.The variations of organic matter signatures can be divided into two stages in the cores from the southern and middle lagoon.Before 1988,the organic matter signatures are relatively stable.The contribution of terrestrial organic carbon sources varies between 60% and 85%.After 1988,the organic matter signatures demonstrate significant variations.TOC and TN contents increase rapidly,TOC/TN ratios decrease,δ13C values shift to higher and the contribution of terrestrial organic carbon sources decreases to 40%-50%.The contributions of phytoplankton organic matter have increased in the sediment since 1988.Increasing aquaculture activities have had a significant impact on organic matter signatures since 1988.The sedimentation rates have increased rapidly in the southern and middle lagoon since 1988 due to the anthropogenic activities which include aquaculture,mining and deforestation.These activities have caused eutrophication and increased siltation in the southern and middle lagoon.     

海南新村潟湖潮汐、潮流特征及其对营养盐的影响

基于海南新村潟湖2020年12月水文和水质多要素实测数据,研究了该海域的潮汐、潮流变化特征,并探讨了潮位变化对潟湖营养盐的影响。结果表明,新村潟湖的潮汐为不规则全日潮,潟湖口门处的潮流为往复流,涨潮历时15 h,落潮历时10 h。大、小潮期间3个观测站点溶解性无机氮(DIN)浓度变化范围为0.91~20.87 μmol/L,磷酸盐(PO3-4)浓度变化范围为0.11~5.92 μmol/L,硅酸盐(SiO2-3)浓度变化范围为2.36~134.75 μmol/L。大、小潮期间,潟湖内3个观测站点DIN、PO3-4、SiO2-3浓度随着涨、落潮过程发生变化。潟湖口门处流速对观测站点潮位变化有着重要的影响,潮通量基本决定了潮位的变化。潟湖口门处和渔排密集区域的营养盐浓度与潮位呈现显著的负相关关系,潮流流速对口门处和渔排密集区域的营养盐变化有着重要影响。该研究结果将为新村潟湖的污染治理及生态修复提供科学依据。     

The impact of human activities on the flushing properties of a semi-enclosed lagoon: Xiaohai, Hainan, China

In this study, a Lagrangian particle tracking model driven by hydrodynamic fields was used to investigate the changes of flushing properties in Xiaohai Lagoon resulting from natural evolution and influences of human activities. Comparisons of residence times between 1936 and 2001 indicate that the flushing efficiency of the lagoon has deteriorated greatly during the past seven decades. Over this period, the average residence time of the lagoon has increased from 45 to 71 days, an increase of 59%. The Lagrangian residual velocity has decreased from 1936 to 2001 in the large portions of the lagoon, and the spatial distribution pattern of the residual current has changed significantly. The well-developed horizontal circulations in 1936 disappeared. Instead, the horizontal Lagrangian residual velocity showed uniformly seaward motion with reduced velocity in 2001. Human activities have incurred great impacts on the deterioration of flushing efficiency. The reduction of river inflow imposed the most significant impact, causing an increase of average residence time by 33%. The land reclamation in the lagoon came as the second most significant factor, causing an increase of 15%. Closure of the North Opening had posed minor impact. The model results suggest that restoring the river inflow, as well as the dredging of the tidal channel and the inner lagoon, should be the top proprieties for future water quality management.     

用一维水力学方程求取泻湖水位及潮汐汊道断面流速——以海南陵水新村港为例

本文通过一维水力学运动方程及连续性方程,得出一个反映泻湖水位变化的二阶非线性有阻尼的强迫振动方程,采用龙格-库特四步格式进行求解,并以海南陵水新村港为例,计算了泻湖水位及潮汐汊道的断面流速.研究结果表明:(1)一维水力学方程可容易地求得泻湖-潮汐汊道体系中泻湖内的水位及汊道的断面流速,计算简单快捷.(2)一维水力学方程可分析潮汐汊道体系中的一些基本现象.如潮汐汊道对潮波的"过滤器"特征;由于泻湖-潮汐汊道体系的阻尼系数较大所导致的潮波自外向泻湖传播时衰减剧烈;径流对泻湖水位及汊道流速产生有利于落潮优势的影响;风可使泻湖水位抬升或下降等.(3)无论是否考虑泻湖与潮汐汊道面积随水位的变化,一维水力学方程都具有相当大的缺陷.由于其不能反映泻湖内地形的空间变化,也不能解决漫滩与归槽等过程,在外海潮波无次生波的情况下,它本身不能产生次生潮波,因而不能正确地反映潮汐汊道体系的涨落潮历时与流速不对称,从而不能分析泥沙的净输运及潮汐汊道的稳定性问题.(4)新村港泻湖-潮汐汊道体系中潮汐汊道的断面面积大小对整个体系的稳定性及演变趋势起着控制作用.     

Modifications of the shore line in the Society islands (French Polynesia)

The people living on the mountainous islands of the Society archipelago have the good luck to benefit from peaceful lagoon waters. The narrow littoral plain is protected from the assaults of the sea by a barrier-reef and the temptation to live by the sea-side is strong. It is all the more stronger as the mountains, although splendid, are not easy places to settle. As an interface between the terrestrial and lagoon environments, the shore line of the mountainous islands is mainly occupied by high vegetation in its natural configuration. Rocks, sandy beaches and muddy areas can be accounted for by geomorphologic factors directly linked to the transformation process of each mountainous island becoming an atoll. While the shore line in the mountainous islands of the Society archipelago is mostly natural, more than 40% has been directly modified by man. But nevertheless this anthropogenization does not correlate with population density or economic development. It results from the complex interactions between human and natural factors. Embankment works and excavating coral materials from the fringing reef are particularly destructive activities for the environment. Current concerns related to rising sea levels emphasized the quality of the shore line for human activities and development of the littoral in the future. Only joint management encompassing the lagoon and terrestrial environments will maintain the natural and human balances, and thus, the harmonious development of the islands’ populations.     

Long-term morphological modeling of a tidal inlet: the Arcachon Basin,France

The Arcachon Lagoon on the French Atlantic coast is a triangular shaped lagoon of 20 km on a side connected to the ocean by a 3-km wide inlet between the mainland and an elongated sand spit. This tidal inlet exhibits a particularly active morphology due to locally strong tidal currents and rough wave conditions. During the past 300 years, minimum and maximum spatial extents of the Cap Ferret sand spit have varied by 8 km while one or two channels have alternately allowed circulation between the lagoon and the ocean. These impressive morphological changes have never prevented regular flushing of the lagoon, eventhough the spit came as close as 300 m from the coast during the 18th century. According to Bruun's concept of tidal inlet stability [Theory and Engineering (1978), 510 pp.], the balance between longshore littoral transport and the tidal prism ensures the perpetuity of the inlet.Process modeling was believed to give better insight into the respective roles of tides and waves in driving the long-term morphological changes of the inlet. A two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamic model was therefore developed, combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates. The use of process models at a scale of decades requires a schematization of the input conditions. We defined representative mean annual wave and tide conditions with respect to sediment transport, i.e. conditions that induce the same annual transport as measured in the field. Driven by these representative conditions, simulations run from the 1993 bathymetry show that the tide is responsible for the opening of a new channel at the extremity of the sand spit (where tidal currents are the strongest), while waves induce a littoral transport responsible for the longshore drift of sand bodies across the inlet. One particular simulation consisted in running the model from a hypothetical initial topography where the channels are filled with sand and the entire inlet is set to a constant depth (3 m). The results show the reproduction of a channel and bar system comparable to historical observations, which supports the idea that the lagoon is unlikely to be disconnected from the ocean, provided tide and wave conditions remain fairly constant in the following decades.