Beach and nearshore morphodynamic changes of the Tabarka coast,Northwest of Tunisia

Aerial photographs taken in the 1963 and 2001 and bathymetric charts, in conjunction with coastal processes are analyzed to assess changes in rate of shoreline position, seabed level, and seabed grain sizes along the Tabarka–Berkoukech beach at the north-western Tunisian coastline. The littoral cell of this beach, 12-km-long, is bounded by pronounced embayments and rocky headlands separated by sandy stretches. Although not yet very much undeveloped, this littoral is still experienced degradation and modification, especially along its shoreline, with significant coastal erosion at some places. Results obtained from analysis of shoreline position indicate that El Morjene Beach is experienced a landward retreat of more than −62 m, at a maximum rate of −1.64 m/year, whereas the El corniche beach is advanced about 16–144 m, at an average rate of 0.42 m–3.78 m/year. This beach accretion has been formed on the updrift side of the Tabarka port constructed between 1966 and 1970. Comparison of bottom contours deduced from bathymetric charts surveyed in 1881 and 1996 off the coastline between Tabarka Port and El Morjene Beach identifies erosional areas (sediment source) and accretionary zones (sediment sink). Erosion (0.87–4.35 cm/year) occurs between El kebir River Mouth and El Morjene beach, whereas accretion exists in the zone down wind of the port ranges between 0.87 and 5.21 cm/year. Morphological analyses of the shoreline and the seabed of the study nearshore area indicate that shoreline retreat corresponds to areas of seabed scour (sediment source) while shoreline accretion is associated with areas of seabed deposition (sediment sink). Furthermore, simulation of wave propagation using STWAVE model combined with grain size distributions of the seabed shows that fine sands are much dominated in depositional areas with low wave energy, whereas coarser sands in erosive zones with high wave energy. The results obtained suggest that the change of seabed morphology, wave height pattern and grain size sediment have a great influence on the modification of shoreline morphology and dynamics.     

An analysis of beach profile changes subsequent to the Colombo Harbor Expansion Project,Sri Lanka

Man-made coastal structures directly affect sediment balance and sediment dynamics on the surrounding beaches. The Colombo Harbor Expansion Project has created about 5-km-long breakwater nearly perpendicular to the beach. The present study is focused on quantitatively and qualitatively analyzing the effect of the Colombo Harbor Expansion Project on economically important beaches in and around Colombo city area. In this study, the authors measured monthly variations of beach width, beach profile and the mean grain-size of the sediments at mean sea level for complete annual monsoon cycle. Data were analyzed to establish site-specific erosion vulnerability. Monitoring results show that cumulative beach erosion has increased after the construction of the breakwater (rate = 0.7 m/year from May 2000 to April 2011 and rate = 28.2 m/year from April 2011 to June 2012). In addition, the cumulative and site-specific sand accretion and erosion patterns have a clear relationship with the monsoon seasonality. Beaches were narrower during the stormy southwestern monsoon, whereas beaches were wider during fair weather of northeast monsoon and inter-monsoon periods. In contrast, the constructed breakwater obstructs natural longshore sediment dynamics. For example, a significant amount of sediments from the Kelani-Ganga River were buried in the Colombo Harbor due to alteration of prominent longshore sediments transportation on the western coast of Sri Lanka. Therefore, this study shows enhancement of coastal erosion in the studied southern beaches due to a lack of sediment deposition.     

Beach erosion and acceretion—An example from Kerala,Southwest Coast of India

The thickly populated coastal zone of Kerala, India is facing severe problems due to attack of high waves during the southwest monsoon. Systematic beach profiling at 5-km intervals was carried out along the 560-km stretch of the Kerala coast during the pre-and postmonsoon seasons in 1984. Beach volume changes were calculated at each profile station, and the erosional and accretional trends for the entire coastal tract were demarcated in a map. Total erosion along 55 stations is 1276 m³/m. The general erosional and acceretional trends were also found to coincide with diverging and converging littoral currents deduced from the wave refraction diagrams. Such study at periodic intervals will be highly useful for proper management of the coastal zone.     

Beach erosion under rising sea‐level modulated by coastal geomorphology and sediment availability on carbonate reef‐fringed island coasts

This study addresses gaps in understanding the relative roles of sea‐level change, coastal geomorphology and sediment availability in driving beach erosion at the scale of individual beaches. Patterns of historical shoreline change are examined for spatial relationships to geomorphology and for temporal relationships to late‐Holocene and modern sea‐level change. The study area shoreline on the north‐east coast of Oahu, Hawaii, is characterized by a series of kilometre‐long beaches with repeated headland‐embayed morphology fronted by a carbonate fringing reef. The beaches are the seaward edge of a carbonate sand‐rich coastal strand plain, a common morphological setting in tectonically stable tropical island coasts. Multiple lines of geological evidence indicate that the strand plain prograded atop a fringing reef platform during a period of late‐Holocene sea‐level fall. Analysis of historical shoreline changes indicates an overall trend of erosion (shoreline recession) along headland sections of beach and an overall trend of stable to accreting beaches along adjoining embayed sections. Eighty‐eight per cent of headland beaches eroded over the past century at an average rate of ?0·12 ± 0·03 m yr^?1. In contrast, 56% of embayed beaches accreted at an average rate of 0·04 ± 0·03 m yr^?1. Given over a century of global (and local) sea‐level rise, the data indicate that embayed beaches are showing remarkable resiliency. The pattern of headland beach erosion and stable to accreting embayments suggests a shift from accretion to erosion particular to the headland beaches with the initiation of modern sea‐level rise. These results emphasize the need to account for localized variations in beach erosion related to geomorphology and alongshore sediment transport in attempting to forecast future shoreline change under increasing sea‐level rise.     

Coastal morphology and beach stability along Thiruvananthapuram,south-west coast of India

Shoreline changes are largely dependent on coastal morphology. South-west coast of India is a high energy coast characterised by monsoon high waves, steep beach face and medium-sized beach sand. Waves are generally from west and west south-west during rough monsoon season and from south-west during fair weather season. Shoreline change along this coast is studied with reference to coastal morphological features. Various morphological features, modifications and chronological positions of shoreline are analysed with the information derived from multidated satellite imageries, toposheets and GPS shoreline mapping along with extended field survey. Image processing and GIS techniques have been used for the analysis of data and presentation of results. Sediment accumulation on the leeward side of artificial structures such as harbour breakwaters and groynes is used as a sediment transport indicator. Artificial structures such as seawalls, groynes and harbour breakwaters modify morphology. Shoreline south of headlands/promontories and breakwaters are stable or accreting due to net northerly longshore sediment transport while erosion tendency is observed on the north side. Lateritic cliffs fronting the sea or with seasonal beach undergo slumping and cliff edge retreat as episodic events. Spits adjoining tidal inlets are prone to shoreline variations due to oscillations of inlet mouth. Interventions in the form of inlet stabilization and construction of coastal protection structures trigger erosion along adjoining coasts. Seawalls constructed along highly eroding coasts get damaged, whereas those constructed along monsoon berm crest with frontal beaches for protection against monsoon wave attack are retained. Fishing gaps within seawalls are areas of severe temporary erosion during rough monsoon season. Accretion or erosion accompanies construction of harbour breakwaters in a stable coastal plain. Close dependence of shoreline changes on morphology necessitates detailed understanding of impacts on morphology prior to introducing any intervention in the coastal zone.     

Grain size and mineralogy of Al Batinah beach sediments,Sultanate of Oman

The nature of Al Batinah coast beach sediments in the Sultanate of Oman was investigated by the analysis of grain size and mineralogy. The beach sediments, mostly light-medium gray green, were predominantly fine sands, with the average grain size of all samples about 200 μm. Some of the particles were gravel (2–16 mm), and some were even larger pebble-size particles (16–256 mm). Some mud (sediment <63 μm) was present, mostly in the sub-tidal sediments. The majority of the samples were skewed to the coarse size with coarse tail partly due to the presence of shell fragments. Approximately 50 % of the beach sediments were quartz with different varieties based on shape and size. The second major component of beach sediment was calcium carbonate which varied from 10 to 65 %. The other components in decreasing order consisted of microbreccia, feldspar, pyroxene, igneous rock fragments, biotite flakes, and heavy minerals. The levels of carbonate were lower in NW Al Batinah coast from Harmul to Al Khaburah but were higher in the SE from Al Khaburah to Al Ghubrah. This could be attributed to either lower carbonate production or more sediment input by wadis along the north-western part of Al Batinah coast. The unique and complex nature of these sediments is largely due to the geology of the terrestrial source area in the Hajar Mountains which contains the famous Samail ophiolite complex and the weak sorting along the shoreline in these tide-modified beaches.     

Historical shoreline trend analysis and drivers of coastal change along the Ravenna coast,NE Adriatic

One of the most important aspects of coastal zone management is the analysis of shoreline dynamics. Over the last years, beaches of the Ravenna coast (NE Italy) experienced large modifications, in some places narrowing or even being completely lost, thus threatening tourism, coastal assets and nature. Coastal erosion has direct consequences for Ravenna tourist-based economy, which largely depends on the attraction provided by sandy beaches. In this study, long-term (>?50 years) coastal analysis was used to identify the sectors along the coast where the shoreline position has changed, either advancing or retreating. Shoreline changes were measured on GIS environment by means of Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) extension. Net Shoreline Movement (NSM) and Linear Regression Rate (LRR) strategies were employed to examine shoreline variability and reveal erosional/accretional trends. The results show that significant shoreline changes affected the entire coastal region, with most of the study area under retreat, mainly in the most valuable tourist assets of the littoral. The effects were found to be worsened by impacts of land subsidence, presence of harbor infrastructure and deficit in sediment budget. A simple shoreline classification was performed over the DSAS results and cross-checked with local knowledge of the area. The measurement of erosion or accretion rates in each studied segment is found to be useful for land use planning and coastal management plans, especially regarding the prediction of future shoreline positions. Especially important is the potential of the classification to identify areas of significant position change, with current and future implications for the design of sustainable shoreline management and mitigation measures.     

The structure and development of foredunes on a locally prograding coast: insights from ground-penetrating radar surveys, Norfolk, UK

The internal structure of coastal foredunes from three sites along the north Norfolk coast has been investigated using ground‐penetrating radar (GPR), which provides a unique insight into the internal structure of these dunes that cannot be achieved by any other non‐destructive or geophysical technique. Combining geomorphological and geophysical investigations into the structure and morphology of these coastal foredunes has enabled a more accurate determination of their development and evolution. The radar profiles show the internal structures, which include foreslope accretion, trough cut and fill, roll‐over and beach deposits. Foredune ridges contain large sets of low‐angle cross‐stratification from dune foreslope accretion with trough‐shaped structures from cut and fill on the crest and rearslope. Foreslope accretion indicates sand supply from the beach to the foreslope, while troughs on the dune crest and rearslope are attributed to reworking by offshore winds. Bounding surfaces between dunes are clearly resolved and reveal the relative chronology of dune emplacement. Radar sequence boundaries within dunes have been traced below the water‐table passing into beach erosion surfaces. These are believed to result from storm activity, which erodes the upper beach and dunes. In one example, at Brancaster, a dune scarp and erosion surface may be correlated with erosion in the 1950s, possibly the 1953 storm. Results suggest that dune ridge development is intimately linked to changes in the shoreline, with dune development associated with coastal progradation while dunes are eroded during storms and, where beaches are eroding, a stable coast provides more time for dune development, resulting in higher foredune ridges. A model for coastal dune evolution is presented, which illustrates stages of dune development in response to beach evolution and sand supply. In contrast to many other coastal dune fields where the prevailing wind is onshore, on the north Norfolk coast, the prevailing wind is directed along the coast and offshore, which reduces the landward migration of sand dunes.     

Evaluation of criteria for predicting erosion and accretion on an estuarine sand beach, Delaware Bay, Jew Jersey

Predicting erosion and accretion of sand beaches in estuaries is important to managing shoreline development and identifying potential relationships between biological productivity and beach change. Wave, sediment and profile data, gathered over twenty-nine days on an estuarine sand beach in Delaware Bay, New Jersey, were used to evaluate the performance of four criteria that predict beach erosion and accretion due to wave-induced cross-shore sediment movement (Dean 1973; Sunamura and Horikawa 1974; Hattori and Kawamata 1980; Kraus et al. 1991). Each criterion defines a relation, between a wave and sediment parameter, and includes a coefficient that discriminates beach erosion and accretion events. Relations, based on small-scale laboratory and field data, were evaluated for predicting erosion or accretion at the study site. Significant wave heights at the study site, monitored near high water, ranged from 0.08 to 0.52 m with periods of 2.4 to 12.8 s. Median grain sizes of sediments on the beach foreshore, gathered at low water, ranged from 0.33 to 0.73 mm. All four criteria showed a clustering of erosion and accretion events. Relations derived from small-scale laboratory data were better predictors of erosion on the profile at the field site than those derived from field data gathered on exposed ocean environments. The planar profile and dominance of incident waves of low height and short period are similar to laboratory conditions characterized by initial planar beach slopes and monochromatic waves. Decreasing the value of the empirical coefficient to account for the differences in the magnitude of wave energy and grain size increases the performance of the criteria tested to predict erosion of the profile.     

Morphodynamics of a mesotidal rocky beach: Palmeras beach,Gorgona Island National Natural Park,Colombia

The response of a rocky beach to different possible combinations of hydrodynamic conditions (tides, waves, oceanic currents) has been little studied. In this work, the morphodynamic response to different hydrodynamic forcing is evaluated from sedimentological and geomorphological analysis in seasonal and medium term (19 years) scale in Palmeras beach, located in the southwest of Gorgona Island National Natural Park (NNP), a mesotidal rocky island on the Colombian Pacific continental shelf. Palmeras is an important nesting area of two types of marine turtles, with no anthropogenic stress. In the last years, coastal erosion has reduced the beach width, restricting the safe areas for nesting and conservation of these species. Until now, the sinks, sources, reservoirs, rates, and paths of sediments were unknown, as well as their hydrodynamic forcing. The beach seasonal variability, from October 2010 to August 2012, was analyzed based on biweekly or monthly measurements of five beach profiles distributed every 200 m along the 1.2 km of beach length. The main paths for sediment transport were defined from the modeling of wave currents with the SMC model (Coastal Modeling System), as well as the oceanic currents, simulated for the dry and wet seasons of 2011 using the ELCOM model (Estuary and Lake COmputer Model). Extreme morphologic variations over a time span of 19 years were analyzed with the Hsu and Evans beach static equilibrium parabolic model, from one wave diffraction point which dominates the general beach plan shape. The beach lost 672 m³/m during the measuring period, and erosional processes were intensified during the wet season. The beach trends responded directly to a wave mean energy flux change, resulting in an increase of up to 14 m in the width northward and loss of sediments in the beach southward. This study showed that to obtain the integral morphodynamic behavior of a rocky beach it is necessary to combine information of hydrodynamic, sedimentology and geomorphology in different time scales.     

Coastal erosion in the south-eastern Mediterranean: case of beaches in North Tunisia

This research is conducted as part of a Spanish International Cooperation Agency project with the aim to investigate the sustainable protection of Tunisian coastal zones, as in the case of Beni Khiar and Dar Chaabane coasts (Hammamet Gulf) separated by Oued El Kebir river. The sedimentary dynamic of these beaches is studied in order to identify the main causes responsible for their erosion by the use of different approaches of in situ measurements and numerical methods. Geophysical surveys and sedimentary analyses have demonstrated that sediments are finer and less carbonated from Beni Khiar to Dar Chaabane. Then, the shoreline mapping of several missions of aerial photos has illustrated a mean shoreline retreat between 3 and 4 m/year. In terms of sand volume, a sediment loss more than 30,000 m³/year at Dar Chaabane has been observed since the hill lake structures were built within Oued El Kebir river in 1996. Finally, modelled hydrodynamic and sedimentary patterns have illustrated the refraction of waves in deep water close to shoals and a high-energy concentration along Dar Chaabane coast. The sediment transport direction is mainly of NE-SW induced by ESE-SE wave-driven alongshore current. Results provided by these approaches have shown the importance of Oued El Kebir sediment yield in supplying the neighbouring beaches. Changes in sedimentary dynamics are affected by the modification of hydrodynamic patters caused by the presence of hydrological dams and the implementations of hotels close to the shoreline. This finding underlines the key role of Oued El Kebir fluvial activity in controlling the equilibrium of beaches and their sensitivity to coastal managements induced by man activities, as in the case of the most Mediterranean beaches.     

Sand-spit erosion following interruption of longshore sediment transport: Shamrock Island, Texas

 Shamrock Island, located in Corpus Christi Bay, Texas, is a former sand spit that was detached from Mustang Island by navigation channels constructed in the early 1950s. The navigation channels effectively eliminated longshore sediment transport to the island, resulting in severe and ongoing erosion of the island's north shore. This study documents long-term shoreline change, based on analysis of aerial photographs from 1938, 1948, 1950, 1952, 1956, 1967, 1975, 1979, 1985, 1990, and 1995. Shamrock Island grew steadily to the south prior to 1956, while the north shore of the island was relatively stable. After 1956, the north shore eroded rapidly, while the south shore continued to grow, probably because sand eroded from the north was redistributed to the south. By 1995, up to 156 m of retreat had occurred on the north shore. The island was recently acquired by the Nature Conservancy of Texas for use as a nature preserve. Erosion now threatens to breach the island, which may result in degradation of an interior lagoon and loss of valuable wildlife habitats. Therefore, in addition to documenting long-term erosion following interruption of longshore sediment transport, this study also illustrates how human modification of the coastal zone can have important and unforseen ramifications affecting future shoreline uses for many decades. Received: 6 October 1997 · Accepted: 3 February 1998     

Environmental impacts of Baltim and Ras El Bar shore-parallel breakwater systems on the Nile delta littoral zone,Egypt

This study evaluates the impacts resulting from the construction of two large-scale detached breakwater systems on the Nile delta coast of Egypt at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches (~18.3 km shoreline length). The two protective systems were installed in a water depth of between 3 and 4 m and consist of 17 units in total (each ~250 m long). A comprehensive monitoring program spanning the years 1990 to 2002 was implemented and included beach-nearshore profiles, grain size distribution of seabed sand and information related to the background coastal processes. Evaluation of these systems concentrates on the physical impacts on coastal morphodynamics, mitigation and their design implications. The beach and nearshore sedimentation (erosion/accretion patterns) and grain texture of seabed sediment in the study areas have been substantially disrupted due to the interruption of longshore transport by the shore-parallel detached breakwaters. Rate of shoreline and seabed changes as well as alongshore sediment volume have been substantially affected, resulting in accretion in the breakwater landward sides (tombolo or salient) followed by downdrift erosion. The preconstruction beach erosion at Baltim (–5 m/year) and at Ras El Bar (–6 m/year) has been replaced, respectively, by the formation of sand tombolo (35 m/year) and salient (9 m/year). On the other hand, beach erosion has been substantially increased in the downdrift sides of these protective systems, being –20 m/year at Baltim and –9 m/year at Ras El Bar. Further seaward, the two protective systems at Baltim and Ras El Bar have accumulated seabed sand at maximum rates of 30 and 20 cm/year and associated with downdrift erosion of –45 and –20 cm/year, respectively. Strong gyres and eddies formed in the breakwater gabs have drastically affected swimmers and subsequently caused a significant number of drownings each summer, averaging 35 and 67 victims/year at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches, respectively. This study provides baseline information needed to help implement mitigation measures for these breakwater systems.     

Impacts of wave energy and littoral currents on shoreline erosion/accretion along the south-west coast of Kanyakumari,Tamil Nadu using DSAS and geospatial technology

The present study investigates the impact of wave energy and littoral current on shorelines along the south-west coast of Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu, India. The multi-temporal Landsat TM, ETM+ images acquired from 1999 to 2011 were used to demarcate the rate of shoreline shift using GIS-based Digital Shoreline Analysis System. The statistical analysis such as net shoreline movement and end point rate were determined from the multi-temporal shoreline layers. Moreover, the wave energy and seasonal littoral current velocity were calculated for each coastal zone using mathematical equations. The results reveal that the coastal zones, which include Kanyakumari, Kovalam, Manavalakurichi and Thengapattinam coasts, consisting of maximum wave energy along with high velocity of littoral current, have faced continuous erosion processes. The estimated wave energy along these zones ranges from 6.5 to 8.5 kJ/km² and the observed current velocity varies from 0.22 to 0.32 m/s during south-west and north-east monsoons. The cumulative effect of these coastal processes in the study area leads to severe erosion that is estimated as 300.63, 69.92, 54.12 and 66.11 m, respectively. However, the coastal zones, namely Rajakkamangalam, Ganapathipuram, Muttam and Colachel, have experienced sediment deposits due to current movement during the north-east monsoon. However, the trend changes during the south-west monsoon as a result of sediment drift through backwash. The spatial variation of shoreline and its impact on wave energy and the littoral current have been mapped using the geo-spatial technology. This study envisages the impact of coastal processes on site-specific shorelines. Hence, the study will be effective for sustainable coastal zone management.     

Coastal Evolution Over the Past 3000 Years at Conrads Beach,Nova Scotia: the Influence of Local Sediment Supply on a Paraglacial Transgressive System

Many coastlines are retreating in response to sea level rise, compounded by glacial–isostatic subsidence in areas marginal to former ice sheets. The resulting barrier and estuarine deposits are dominated by transgressive stratigraphy. Where supplied primarily from relict glacial deposits, this “paraglacial” sediment input may rise and fall, increasing as a new source such as a drumlin headland is exposed to erosion but declining as the source becomes exhausted. Conrads Beach, on the Atlantic coast of Canada, has experienced a succession of barrier growth and reworking as sediment supply from several drumlin sources has varied over the past 3000 years. In the context of long-term regional transgression, there have been intervals of years to centuries characterized by local stability or progradation. Ground-penetrating radar profiles and refraction seismic data were used to image the facies architecture of Conrads Beach to depths of 6–8 and 10–24 m, respectively. Thirteen vibracores provided a record of lithofacies characteristics and geometry. Results show evidence of an estuarine basin at ~2800 years BP. As the outer coast retreated, erosion of drumlins provided multi-century sediment pulses to adjacent beaches and embayments. Locally increased sediment supply fed a prograding beach ridge complex from >600 to ~150 years BP and tidal channels feeding sediment to back-barrier flood delta deposits. This study documents the complexity of coastal adjustment to time- and source-varying sediment supply under long-term rising sea level. It expands and refines previous models, providing guidance required for effective management and hazard mitigation on transgressive paraglacial coasts.     

Changing depositional environment and factors controlling the growth of mudflat in a tropical estuary,west coast of India

Mudflats and associated mangroves are most important ecosystems of tropical coastal regions. Mangroves play a very important role in maintaining the environmental balance; thus in addition to mangrove reforestation and restoration, afforestation has also been practiced. We studied distribution of sediment components (sand, silt, clay) organic carbon (OC), heavy metals (Fe, Mn, Cu, Zn, Cr and Co) and pH in six cores collected from one of the largest mudflats of Mandovi estuary, west coast of India. The temporal distribution patterns of these proxies suggested that past changes in tidal energy conditions, fresh water inflow and anthropogenic activities over the last few decades, together helped in development of a middle tidal flat in this estuary. In cores collected from the mangroves, trapping and deposition of finer particles and organic matter were enhanced by a complex aerial mangrove root system in recent years. Mangroves were, therefore, suggested to enhance the buildup of mudflats in Mandovi estuary. Cores collected from mudflats also exhibited higher deposition of finer particles and organic matter (except MF2) in recent years, suggesting maturity and greater stability of the entire mudflat in recent years. Middle tidal flats (mudflats) of Mandovi estuary may, therefore, prove to be suitable substrates for mangrove proliferation in the near future. Finer sediments deposited mainly from mining activities in recent years exhibited lower pH and higher metal content. Organisms dwelling in these recently deposited sediments are, therefore, at higher risk of bioaccumulation and metal toxicity.     

Provenance and sediment characteristics of contemporary gravel deposits at Sellicks Beach,eastern shore of Gulf St Vincent,South Australia

Sellicks Beach, located on the eastern shore of Gulf St Vincent, South Australia, is subject to wave-dominated processes and northward longshore transport. During winter, when wave energy is typically vigorous, gravel deposits are exposed across most of the beach, and three step-like berms are well developed. Sand is restricted to a narrow strip that is exposed only at low tide. In contrast, during summer, when wave energy is generally moderate to low, much of the gravel is covered by a thin veneer of sand and only the high berm, on the landward edge of the beach, remains as an obvious feature. Steeply dipping Neoproterozoic to Cambrian strata that outcrop strongly across Sellicks Hill are the original source rocks for the beach gravel; distinctive sedimentary textures, structures and fossils in the cobble-size clasts can be confidently matched with those of the provenance rocks. Much of the sediment entered the modern beach environment as a consequence of coastal erosion of transitional alluvial fan sediments. The oldest alluvial fan sediments are of late Pliocene to earliest Pleistocene age. Mount Terrible Gully provides a conduit for the input of fluvial sediment at the mouth of Cactus Canyon, where clasts as large as boulders accumulate across the beach. Sellicks Beach gravels are subject to longshore transport northwards. Relatively softer clasts, such as those derived from the Heatherdale Shale, are rare beyond Cactus Canyon. In contrast, quartzite clasts are more abundant towards the north. This lithological differentiation is attributed to preferential survivorship of clasts that are physically harder and chemically less reactive. The change in the shapes of clasts northwards, from predominately shingle-like ‘very platy’ and ‘very bladed’ at Cactus Canyon, to more ‘compact’ towards the boat ramp, is in accord with the more massive fabric of the surviving quartzite clasts. At Sellicks Beach, preservation of uplifted, coarse gravels, with entire and comminuted marine molluscan shells, of last interglacial age, provides evidence of neotectonism. At the landward margin of the beach, imbricated gravels in which pore spaces have been infilled with mud, and which show no evidence of modern coastal erosion, may provide evidence of continuing uplift during the recent Holocene. The geological setting, geomorphic framework and modern sedimentary regime at Sellicks Beach combine to provide an exceptionally useful outdoor laboratory for education in field geology.     

Coastal geoindicators of environmental change in the humid tropics

The primary geoindicators appropriate for monitoring environmental changes in the humid tropics are transitory surface water levels, shoreline position, wetlands distribution, coral reefs, landforms, and sediment sequence and composition. Lateral zonations and temporal successions of vegetation also can be used as geoindicators of riverine and shoreline changes. All of these coastal geoindicators are sensitive to regional tectonic processes and anthropogenic alterations and they typically reflect significant changes in coastal conditions such as fluvial processes, coastal energy, water quality, relative sea level, and sediment supply. Where humid tropical coasts coincide with active tectonic margins, indicators of seismic activity are critical to understanding coastal changes associated with co-seismic subsidence or uplift, tsunamis, and liquefaction of coastal sediments. Coastal landforms and sedimentary deposits that record late Quaternary environmental changes include perched fluvial and marine terraces, delta-plain morphologies, crevasse-splay deposits, peats and other paleosols, beach ridges, mud capes, and mud volcanoes. Although these features and deposits typically reflect environmental changes spanning more than 100 years, they are relevant to modern processes, management of coastal lands and resources, and prediction of future conditions. In some regions of the humid tropics, large coastal areas are unaffected by hurricanes or typhoons. Nevertheless, these tropical coasts are vulnerable to other non-storm processes, such as El Niño events, tsunamis, and monsoons that increase water levels, and cause widespread flooding and beach erosion. The environmental and political significance of coastal geoindicators increases when they are integrated and applied to issues of human safety and health such as hazards mapping, risk assessment, and dispersion of contaminated sediments. However, to be relevant, those socio-environmental applications demand accurate predictions of future trends and rates of change.     

Vulnerability assessment of a retreating coast in SW Spain

The present study assesses coastal vulnerability to erosion processes along a 23-km-long coastal sector that presents different morphological features and grades of human occupation. Seven photogrammetric flights, at different scales, were used for reconstructing the coastal evolution from 1956 to 2001. Several sources were compiled to assess human activities and land uses in the coastal zones that were mapped and divided into four different types. As a further step, coastal vulnerability to erosion was assessed combining the potential coastal retreat with land-use type. More than one third of the studied coast presents a very high–medium risk level and many human structures and activities at Sanlúcar village and La Ballena beach will be threatened by erosional processes in the near future.