Preliminary hydrodynamic results of a field experiment on a barred beach, Truc Vert beach on October 2001

A field experiment conducted on a sandy barred beach, situated on the southern part of the French Atlantic coastline, allowed us to investigate the impact of the intertidal bar on the wave-energy dissipation on the beach face in presence of a high-energy long-incoming swell (significant wave height of about 1.7 to 3.0 m in 56 m water depth and significant wave period about 12 s). Data were collected along three parallel cross-shore transects deployed along an intertidal ridge and runnel system. Wave heights in the inner surf zone are depth-limited, consistent with previous works, and the wave-energy dissipation in the inner surf zone appears to be relatively independent of the offshore energy level. On the other hand, the presence of the bar seems to scatter the data. In models of surf-zone hydrodynamics, wave-energy dissipation is often parameterized in terms of , the ratio of the sea-swell significant wave height to the local mean water depth. The observed values of are not constant along a cross-shore transect, and increase onshore. Furthermore, the observed values observed onshore the intertidal bar are higher than those observed outside the influence of the intertidal bar, and this cannot be fully explained by the different local beach slope.Responsible Editor: Iris Grabemann     

Thresholds for morphological changes on an exposed sandy beach as a function of wave height

A sandy beach in the south of Portugal (Faro beach, Ria Formosa) was surveyed from the dune crest seaward to 15 m depth 20 times over a period of 26 months. Wave time‐series between surveys were analysed to obtain relationships between wave height and vertical profile variations and to define wave thresholds for important morphological changes. Results show that the active zone of the profile lies between 5 m above and 10·4 m below mean sea level, and that there are clear cross‐shore differences in the vertical variability of the profile. Based on the pattern of vertical variability, the profile was divided into four cross‐shore sectors: A (berm), 20–80 m from the profile origin; B (sub‐tidal terrace), 80–170 m; C (long‐shore bar), 170–360 m; and D, 360–700 m. The relationship between the modulus of the maximum vertical change in each sector and the 99th percentile of significant wave height between surveys was always significant. Calculated thresholds for significant wave height generating important morphological changes were 2·3 m in sector A, 3·2 m in sectors B and C, and 4·1 m in sector D. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The role of wind direction in eolian transport on a narrow sandy beach

Comparison of eolian transport during five high-velocity wind events over a 29 day period on a narrow estuarine beach in Delaware Bay, New Jersey, USA, reveals the temporal variability of transport, due to changes in direction of wind approach. Mean wind speed measured 6 m above the dune crest for the five events ranged from 8·5 to 15·9 ms^?1. Mean wind direction was oblique to the shoreline (63° from shore-normal) during one event but was within 14° of shore-normal during the other events. Eolian transport is greatest during low tide and rising tide, when the beach source area is widest and when drying of surface sediments occurs. The quantity of sediment caught in a vertical trap for the five events varied from a total of 0·07 to 113·73 kgm^?1. Differences in temperature, relative humidity and moisture and salt content of surficial sediments were slight. Mean grain sizes ranged from 0·33 to 0·58 mm, causing slight differences in threshold shear velocity, but shear velocities exceeded the threshold required for transport during all events. Beach width, measured normal to the shoreline, varied from 15·5 to 18·0 m; beach slope differed by 0·5°. The oblique wind during one event created a source width nearly double the width during other days. Beach slope, measured in the direction of the wind, was less than half as steep as the slope measured normal to the shoreline. The amount of sand trapped during the oblique wind was over 20 times greater than any other event, even those with higher shear velocities. The ability of the beach surface to supply grains to the air stream is limited on narrow beaches, but increased source width, due to oblique wind approach, can partially overcome limitations of surface conditions on the beach.     

Consequences of spring phytodetritus sedimentation on the benthic compartment along a depth gradient in the Eastern English Channel

Phaeocystis blooms are of major importance in the Eastern English Channel, where they significantly contribute to spring organic matter input with chlorophyll concentrations commonly higher than 30 microgl(-1) in the water column. Post-bloom deposition of Phaeocystis derived mucilaginous compounds has been shown to have a major importance on benthic intertidal systems, but resulting mineralization processes and consequences on the macrobenthic compartment remain poorly documented in subtidal areas. In this frame, a study was performed along the French coast of the English Channel to quantify mineralization processes, as well as potential consequences on subtidal sediments, especially their geochemistry and associated macrofaunal communities. Seven stations were studied along a depth gradient during four cruises: before (March), during (April, May) and after (June) the spring bloom. Sediment characteristics and organic carbon content were described, as well as sediment-water fluxes of oxygen and ammonium. Macrofaunal characteristics were also analyzed. Stations were chosen as representative of the various benthic communities present in the area, which are directly linked to the granulometric characteristics of the sediments. To account for the general functioning of the water column, characterized by a coastal flow where higher concentrations of Phaeocystis are generally recorded, similar communities were sampled inshore and offshore, when possible: (i) the Abra alba community located only close to the coast, (ii) the Ophelia borealis community located inshore and offshore, and (iii) the Amphioxus lanceolatus community located inshore and offshore. Generally, low exchange rates of oxygen and ammonium were measured (respectively, in the range 50-150 micromol O2 m(-2)h(-1) and -25 to 35 micromol NH4+ m(-2)h(-1)) between the water column and the muddy-sand to coarse sand permeable sediments, as a consequence of the low organic carbon content due to the high hydrodynamic forcing. As a consequence of organic matter accumulation in surficial sediments probably resulting from Phaeocystis post-bloom deposition, an increase of sediment oxygen demand and ammonium release was clearly evidenced up to 660 micromol O2 m(-2)h(-1) and 205 micromol NH4+ m(-2)h(-1) in May, only in stations located close to the coast (<8 kms), in the A. alba community. Despite those significant biogeochemical changes in surficial sediments, no significant consequence was pointed out on macrofauna, neither in the O. borealis and A. lanceolatus communities, nor in the coastal A. alba community. Most of the temporal variations recorded might be attributed to the common spring population dynamics, but this study highlights the potential use of geochemical parameters as a forewarning signal of benthic disequilibrium.     

Modelling the response of a double-barred sandy beach system to time-varying wave angles

Sandy beaches typically have one or more shore-parallel bars with superimposed smaller-scale three-dimensional (3D) bars. Knowledge of their morphodynamic behaviour under more realistic wave conditions is limited. This study investigates the response of beaches with two shore-parallel bars to sinusoidally time-varying angles of incidence, using a non-linear morphodynamic model. Different periods and amplitudes of this sinusoidal variation are considered, as well as different time-mean wave angles. For time-invariant and normally incident waves, results show that alongshore rhythmic 3D bars form in the domains of inner and outer shore-parallel bars. The 3D bars in the inner domain are coupled at half the outer-bars wavelength. This phase coupling breaks up when the wave angle varies in time. Initially, regular 3D bars form in the inner domain (free behaviour), which become irregular when 3D bars develop in the outer domain (forced behaviour). The heights of the 3D bars oscillate with time, reaching maximum values when the forcing period is comparable to the system adjustment time scale (∼ 10–20 days). For a time-varying wave angle around an oblique mean, alongshore migrating 3D bars emerge in both inner and outer domains. In contrast, for an oblique (constant) wave angle, 3D bars only form in the inner domain and they hardly migrate alongshore. For any forcing period, the dominant response period of the oscillating bar heights is at half the forcing period when waves are (on average) normally incident, and it equals the forcing period when waves are on average obliquely incident. Compared with time-invariant angles, heights of inner and outer 3D bars are (on average) smaller and larger, respectively, when the angle varies with time, particularly for forcing periods in the order of the system adjustment time scale. Increasing the amplitude of the time-varying wave angle weakens bar growth. Explanations of these results are also provided.     

Short‐term changes in the plan shape of a sandy beach in response to sheltering by a nearshore mud bank,Cayenne, French Guiana

Montjoly is a headland‐bound embayed sandy beach in Cayenne, French Guiana, that shows long‐term plan shape equilibrium in spite of periodic changes in accretion and erosion that alternately affect either end of the beach. These changes are caused by mud banks that move alongshore from the Amazon. The mechanisms involved in changes in the plan shape of the beach in response to the passage of one of these mud banks were monitored between 1997 and 2000 from airborne video imagery and field work. The beach longshore drift to the northwest, driven by the incident easterly to northeasterly swell usually affecting this coast, became temporarily reversed as the mud bank, migrating from east to west, initially sheltered the southeastern end of the beach. The difference in exposure to waves engendered a negative wave height gradient alongshore towards the southeast, resulting in the setting up of a cell circulation and counter‐active longshore drift from the exposed northwestern sector to the southeast. Sand eroded from the exposed sector accumulated first in the southeastern, and then the central sectors of the beach. The effect of increasing beach sheltering by the mudbank moving west is highlighted on the videographs by an ‘arrested’ pattern of beach shoreline development. The videographs show hardly any changes in beach plan shape since January 1999, due to sheltering of the beach from wave attack by the mud bank. It is expected that the eroded sector will recover in the future as the mud bank passes, leading to re‐establishment of the northwesterly sand drift. This temporally phased bi‐directional drift within the confines of the bounding headlands results in a rare example of mud‐bank‐induced beach rotation, and probably explains the long‐term equilibrium plan shape of Montjoly beach. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Shallow-water benthic macroinvertebrate community of the limnic part of a lowland Polish dam reservoir

Biodiversity, abundance and taxonomic composition of shallow-water zoobenthos were studied in the W?oc?awek Dam Reservoir (the lower Vistula River, central Poland). The following habitats located near the shore were studied: (1) sandy bottom in the flooded part of the reservoir; (2) sandy bottom close to the main riverine flow in the reservoir and (3) organic-rich bottom covered by a thick layer of plant remnants in a shallow, isolated cove. In each habitat we investigated two sites (ca. 0.5 and 1 m depth). Also examined was the bottom of a phytolittoral site (sandy bottom, with elodeids and nympheids, 1 m depth), located in the flooded zone. In general, the bottom fauna was highly diverse and abundant in these habitats. The highest biodiversity (38 taxa, Shannon-Wiener index=4.3) was found on the bottom rich in organic matter. However, the zoobenthos abundance in this habitat was comparatively low, probably due to periodical oxygen deficiencies. The highest density of bottom fauna (>30,000 individuals per m²), accompanied by its high biodiversity, occurred at the phytolittoral site. The benthic community of the organic-rich sediments was the most distinct, with many taxa occurring exclusively in this area. The composition of the bottom fauna, from the two sandy habitats and phytolittoral, also differed from one another. The differences in taxonomic composition between the shallower and deeper sites were less pronounced. Lower densities at the shallower sandy sites and a very high variability of taxonomic composition among particular samples from these sites indicated lower stability of their environmental conditions. These were certainly due to water level fluctuations and/or destructive wave action. On the other hand, no such differences were found between the sites of various depths from the organic-rich sediments, showing that this substratum provided better protection against adverse hydrodynamical factors.     

A tracer study in an Alaskan gravel beach and its implications on the persistence of the Exxon Valdez oil

Despite great efforts including bioremediation, the 1989 Exxon Valdez oil spills persist in many gravel beaches in Prince William Sound, Alaska, USA. To explore this mystery, a lithium tracer study was conducted along two transects on one of these beaches. The tracer injections and transports were successfully simulated using the 2-dimensional numerical model MARUN. The tracer stayed much longer in the oil-persisting, right transect (facing landwand) than in the clean, left transect. If the tracer is approximately regarded as oils, oils in the upper layer would have more opportunities to enter the lower layer in the right transect than in the left one. This may qualitatively explain the oil persistence within the right transect. When the tracer is regarded as nutrients, the long stay of nutrients within the right transect implies that the oil persistence along the right transect was not due to the lack of nutrients during the bioremediation.     

Estimation of nearshore groundwater discharge and its potential effects on a fringing coral reef

Radon (²²²Rn) measurements were conducted in Shiraho Reef (Okinawa, Japan) to investigate nearshore submarine groundwater discharge (SGD_nearshore) dynamics. Estimated average groundwater flux was 2-3 cm/h (maximum 7-8 cm/h). End-member radon concentration and gas transfer coefficient were identified as major factors influencing flux estimation accuracy. For the 7-km long reef, SGD_nearshore was 0.39-0.58 m³/s, less than 30% of Todoroki River’s baseflow discharge. SGD_nearshore was spatially and temporally variable, reflecting the strong influence of subsurface geology, tidal pumping, groundwater recharge, and hydraulic gradient. SGD_nearshore elevated nearshore nitrate concentrations (0.8-2.2 mg/l) to half of Todoroki River’s baseflow -N (2-4 mg/L). This increased nearshore Chl-a from 0.5-2 μg/l compared to the typically low Chl-a (<0.1-0.4 μg/l) in the moat. Diatoms and cyanobacteria concentrations exhibited an increasing trend. However, the percentage contributions of diatoms and cyanobacteria significantly decreased and increased, respectively. SGD may significantly induce the proliferation of cyanobacteria in nearshore reef areas.     

Analysis of the effects of different storm events on shoreline dynamics of an artificially embayed beach

A five‐year dataset of Argus‐derived mean intertidal positions has been analysed to characterize the shoreface variability in a beach protected by a system of groynes and a parallel low crested structure (Lido di Dante Ravenna, Italy). For the period 2004–2009, 84 intertidal beach bathymetries and shorelines at the zero sea level were used as indicators to assess beach changes in between a number of selected surveys and to determine characteristic patterns of the beach response to storm events from different directions. Variations in the shoreline at the zero sea levels have been quantified and analysed in conjunction with nearshore wave conditions and provenance linked to storm events. These fall into two categories: (1) storm events occurring during Bora (north‐eastern) wind conditions and (2) storm events occurring during Scirocco (south‐eastern) wind conditions. The results show that, apart from main beach advances of the whole protected beach due to nourishments periodically carried out, a marked variability is observed among the four sub‐cells into which the shoreface behaviour has been separately analysed. In particular, a dependence of beach rotation in the ‘artificially embayed’ area on the substantially bi‐directional wave climate has been shown: Bora and Scirocco storm events produce shoreline rotation in counterclockwise and clockwise directions, respectively, due to the occurrence of longshore currents in the opposite direction in the nearshore. An attempt was made to correlate the shoreface dynamics for the main rotation events (14 selected ones) to the wave attack intensity (as the total energy flux due to storm events). A relationship seems to occur (for each storm category) between the shoreline displacements estimated for each sub‐cell and the total energy flux computed for inter‐survey periods, supporting the occurrence of a link between the observed morphological changes and the hydrodynamic forcing associated with storm events in the five‐year monitoring period. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Decadal and seasonal development of embryo dunes on an accreting macrotidal beach: North Lincolnshire,UK

Embryo dunes are often ephemeral, but can develop to become established coastal foredunes. In 2001 a patch of embryo dunes 13.11 m² appeared on a beach in north Lincolnshire, UK and had expanded to over 3600 m² by 2011. The rate of expansion is linked to storm occurrence, where expansion is slowed during years with a higher incidence of storm surges. From July 2009–October 2010 seasonal changes in dune field topography were determined using terrestrial laser scanning (TLS) data. Vegetation is important in the development of embryo dunes, but can cause errors in TLS data. Tests evaluating the impact of vegetation on the TLS data suggest the minimum elevation value from the TLS point cloud within a 0.05 m grid cell gives a good approximation of the ground surface. Digital elevation models (DEMs) of the dunes constructed using filtered data showed the embryo dunes underwent a classic seasonal cycle of erosion during the winter and accretion during the summer. For example from October 2009 to April 2010 over 375 m³ of sediment was eroded from the dunes whereas during spring and summer 2010 the dune field gained over 600 m³ of sand. The overall magnitude of change in dune height and volume from season to season exceeded the errors associated with the construction of the DEM from the TLS data and the vegetation filtering process, which suggests TLS can be useful for documenting topographic change in vegetated dunes. After 10 years, the patch of embryo dunes is still expanding but has not yet merged with more established foredunes to landward. Aeolian process measurements indicate that, at present, the embryo dunes do not prevent sand from reaching the foredunes, however the rate of foredune progradation has slowed concurrently with the expansion of the embryo dune field. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Berm formation and dynamics on a gently sloping beach; the effect of water level and swash overtopping

Berm formation and morphological development of the beach face have been observed during a neap–neap tidal cycle on the gently sloping and accreting beach at Vejers, Denmark. During the field campaign, an intertidal bar migrated onshore and stabilized as a berm on the foreshore. A new intertidal bar occurred on the lower beach face, migrated onshore on the rising tide and finally merged with the pre‐existing berm. As the tide continued to rise, the new berm translated further onshore as an intertidal bar to the uppermost part of the foreshore. The sediment transport during the berm transition was onshore directed in the upper swash and offshore directed in the lower swash. This berm development can be described through both the neap‐berm, ridge‐and‐runnel and berm‐ridge development concepts proposed by Hine (Sedimentology 1979; 26: 333–351), and all three stages were observed during only three tidal cycles. The main factors controlling this fast transformation were the gentle slope of the cross‐shore profile, rapid water level translation rates, substantial swash overtopping of the berm, and low infiltration rates. Despite the onshore migration of intertidal bars and berm formation, no net foreshore accretion took place during the field campaign. This was largely due to the formation of rip channels with strong rip currents cutting through the intertidal bars and the berm, which acted as a sediment drain in the profile. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The impact of wind-waves and sea level rise on the morphodynamics of a sandy estuarine shoal

Intertidal shoals are pronounced morphological features found in many estuaries worldwide. Apart from maintaining an ecologically unique intertidal environment, shoals also protect adjacent dyke systems by attenuating waves. The fate of sandy shoals under anticipated sea level rise (SLR) scenarios is underexplored. The current research investigates the long-term morphodynamic evolution of estuarine sandy shoals under forcing by short fetch, locally generated wind-waves, tides, and SLR by means of a numerical, process-based model (Delft3D). The focus lies on a sheltered shoal complex in the Western Scheldt, the Netherlands. Starting from the initial, 1963 bathymetry, we model 50-year morphodynamic development with schematized wind-wave forcing. We analyze in detail the impact of locally generated wind-waves on shoal formation. Finally, we impose regional SLR of 1.10 m and 1.95 m for 100 years. Model results show that, on the spatial scale of intertidal flats, small, locally generated wind-waves lower and widen the shoals while the adjacent channels deepen. However, on the estuarine system scale, wind-waves do not lead to fundamentally different channel–shoal patterns and morphodynamic evolution trends. This suggests that channel–shoal formation is mainly due to tide residual sediment transports, with wind-waves playing a secondary role. SLR leads to a notable intertidal area loss, despite a continuous heightening of the shoals, implying that morphodynamic adaptation lags behind SLR. The inclusion of wind-waves does not fundamentally change the reaction of the estuarine shoal to SLR. Future research may focus on exploring the impact of including multiple sediment classes.     

Effects of hypoxia on benthic macrofauna and bioturbation in the Estuary and Gulf of St. Lawrence,Canada

The bottom water in the >300 m deep Lower St. Lawrence Estuary (LSLE) is persistently hypoxic in contrast to the normoxic bottom waters in the Gulf of St. Lawrence (GSL). We photographed the seabed at 11 stations in the Estuary and Gulf of St. Lawrence (EGSL) during the summers 2006 and 2007 and analysed the images to identify bioturbation traces (lebensspuren) and benthic macrofauna. The objective was to identify the environmental variables that influence the density and diversity of benthic macrofauna and bioturbation traces, and the differences that exist among regions with high, medium and low oxygen levels in the bottom water. The bottom water oxygen concentration is the variable that best explains the densities of total-traces as well as surface-traces. However, the density of these traces was higher in hypoxic regions than in well-oxygenated regions. The higher density of traces in the hypoxic region of the LSLE is mainly due to the activities of the surface deposit feeder Ophiura sp., which occurs in large numbers in this region. Possible explanations explored are stress behaviour of the organisms in response to hypoxia and different benthic macrofauna community structures between the hypoxic regions of the LSLE and the normoxic regions of the GSL. In the former, surface deposit feeders and low-oxygen tolerant species dominate over suspension feeders and low-oxygen intolerant species.     

The effects of surface moisture on aeolian sediment transport threshold and mass flux on a beach

This paper presents results from a study designed to explore the effects of beach surface moisture and fetch effects on the threshold of movement, intensity of sand transport by wind and mass flux. The experiment was carried out over a period of five weeks at Greenwich Dunes, Prince Edward Island, Canada in May and June 2002. Moisture content was measured with a Delta‐T moisture probe over a 50 m by 25 m grid established on the beach. Measurements of wind speed and direction were made with arrays of cup anemometers and a two‐dimensional sonic anemometer. Transport intensity was measured at a height of 2–4 cm above the bed using omnidirectional saltation probes which count the impact of saltating grains on a piezoelectric crystal. Anemometers and saltation probes were sampled at 1 Hz. Sand transport was measured with vertical integrating sand traps over periods of 10–20 minutes. Results show that where there is a considerable supply of dry sand the saltation system responds very rapidly (1–2 s) to fluctuations in wind speed, i.e. to wind gusts. Where sand supply from the surface is limited by moisture, mean transport rates are much lower and this reflects in both a reduction in the instantaneous transport rate and in a transport system that becomes increasingly intermittent. Threshold wind speed is significantly correlated with an increase in surface moisture content near the upwind end of the beach fetch, but the relationship is not significant at the downwind end where sediment transport is initiated primarily by saltation impact from upwind. Mass flux increases with increasing fetch length and the relationship is described best by a power function. Further work is necessary to develop a theoretical function to predict the increase in transport with fetch distance as well as the critical fetch distance. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Effects of an oil spill on benthic community production and respiration on subtropical intertidal sandflats

This study determined effects of an oil spill on subtropical benthic community production and respiration by monitoring CO₂ fluxes in benthic chambers on intertidal sandflats during emersion before and after an accidental spill. The oil spill decreased sediment chlorophyll a concentrations, altered benthic macrofaunal community, and affected ecological functioning by suppressing or even stopping microalgal production, increasing bacterial respiration, and causing a shift from an autotrophic system to a heterotrophic system. Effects of the oil spill on the macrofauna were more severe than on benthic microalgae, and affected sedentary infauna more than motile epifauna. Despite the oil spill’s impact on the benthic community and carbon metabolism, the affected area appeared to return to normal in about 23 days. Our results suggest that the prompt response of benthic metabolism to exposure to petroleum hydrocarbons can serve as a useful indicator of the impact of an oil spill.     

Impact of flood events on macrobenthic community structure on an intertidal flat developing in the Ohta River Estuary

We investigated the effects of river floods on the macrobenthic community of the intertidal flat in the Ohta River Estuary, Japan, from 2005 to 2010. Sediment erosion by flood events ranged from about 2–3 cm to 12 cm, and the salinity dropped to 0‰ even during low-intensity flood events. Cluster analysis of the macrobenthic population showed that the community structure was controlled by the physical disturbance, decreased salinity, or both. The opportunistic polychaete Capitella sp. was the most dominant species in all clusters, and populations of the long-lived polychaete Ceratonereis erythraeensis increased in years with stable flow and almost disappeared in years with intense flooding. The bivalve Musculista senhousia was also an important opportunistic species that formed mats in summer of the stable years and influenced the structure of the macrobenthic community. Our results demonstrate the substantial effects of flood events on the macrobenthic community structure.     

Monitoring of the sediment dynamics along a sandy shoreline by means of airborne hyperspectral remote sensing and LIDAR: a case study in Belgium

Airborne hyperspectral data and airborne laserscan or LIDAR data were applied to analyse the sediment transport and the beach morphodynamics along the Belgian shoreline. Between 2000 and 2004, four airborne acquisitions were performed with both types of sensor. The hyperspectral data were classified into seven sand type classes following a supervised classification approach, in which feature selection served to reduce the number of bands in the hyperspectral data. The seven classes allowed us to analyse the spatial dynamics of specific sediment volumes. The technique made it possible to distinguish the sand used for berm replenishment works or for beach nourishments from the sand naturally found on the backshore and the foreshore. Subtracting sequential DTMs (digital terrain models) resulted in height difference maps indicating the erosion and accretion zones. The combination of both data types, hyperspectral data and LIDAR data, provides a powerful tool, suited to analyse the dynamics of sandy shorelines. The technique was demonstrated on three sites along the Belgian shoreline: Koksijde, located on the West Coast and characterized by wide accretional beaches, influenced by dry berm replenishment works and the construction of groins; Zeebrugge, on the Middle Coast, where a beach nourishment was executed one year before the acquisitions started and where the dams of the harbour of Zeebrugge are responsible for the formation of a large accretional beach, and Knokke‐Heist, located on the East Coast and characterized by narrow, locally reflective, beaches, heavily influenced by nourishment activities. The methodology applied allowed retrieval of the main sediment transport directions as well as the amount of sediment transported. It proved to be specifically suited to follow up the redistribution and the re‐sorting of the fill in beach nourishment areas. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.