The transient response of an ocean to moving wind field

The paper studies the short period response of an unbounded and uniform ocean to moving wind field. Firstly, it is shown that the response disturbance has two kinds of motion, one is geostrophical and other is inertial gravity wave. Secondly, this paper studies the disturbance source caused by a circular wind field which moves rapidly in a straight path on a horizontal plane. It is shown that the disturbance source is mainly determined by the distribution of the curl of wind stress. Thirdly, this paper studies the solution of disturbance equation with nonhomogeous term of disturbance source as an impulse. It is shown that the oceanic response is determined by disturbance source. Finally, by calculating numerically the current velocity and surface elevation in time, it is shown that the intensity, spatial scale and duration of the response are closely related to wind field.     

Numerical Prediction of Regular Wave Breaking on Very Gentle Slopes

Regular wave deformation and breaking on very gende slopes is calculated by Mixed-Eulerian-Lagrangian procedure. The velocity potentials and their normal derivatives on the boundary are calculated through the mixed 0-1 boundary element method. The wave elevation and the potentials of time-stepping integration are detertnined by the 2nd-order Taylor expansion at the nodes of free surface boundary elements. During calculation the x-coordinates of the free surface element nodes are supposed to remain unchanged, i.e. the partial derivatives of wave elevation and potentials with respect to x are considered as zero. The numerical results of asymmetric parameters of breaking waves are verified by experimental study. It is shown that when the wave asymmetry is weak, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particales occurs at the wave peak and, the average ratio of this maximum velocity to wave celerity is 0.96. However, when the wave asymmetry is strong, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particles occu     

Numerical simulation of oblique water entry of an asymmetrical wedge

The hydrodynamic problem of a two-dimensional asymmetrical wedge entering calm water obliquely at constant speed is analyzed based on the velocity potential theory. The gravity effect on the flow is ignored based on the assumption that the ratio of the entry speed to the acceleration due to gravity is much larger than the time scale of interest. The problem of this similarity flow is solved by a boundary element method together with an analytical solution for the jet based on the shallow water approximation. Various results are provided for the wave elevation, pressure distribution and force at different deadrise angles and at different oblique entry. The effects of asymmetry and horizontal speed on these results are investigated.     

海洋对热带气旋响应的研究 Ⅰ.海洋对静止、移速不同的热带气旋响应

建立一个二层非线性原始方程海洋模式，用以研究海洋对静止和以不同移速移动的热带气旋（TC）的响应。数值试验结果表明，海洋对静止TC的响应，具有不对称性；在TC中心处，抽吸使混合层（ML）变浅，在TC最大风速半径处，大风夹卷明显使ML加深和海表温（SST）下降；海洋对移动TC的响应，具有右偏性，且随移速加快而加剧。ML深度和SST的变化对TC移速十分敏感，而海流则不同。     

Laboratory wave reflection analysis using co-located gages

Most coastal and ocean engineering laboratories employ techniques that use two or three spatially separated wave gages to estimate reflection of irregular waves in two-dimensional wave flumes. This paper presents a frequency domain method for separating incident and reflected wave spectra from co-located gages (gages located on the same vertical line). The technique is based on linear wave theory, and it can be applied to time series of sea surface elevation and horizontal water velocity collected in a vertical array, or it can be used with horizontal and vertical water velocity time series collected at the same point in the water column. Application of the method is limited to those frequencies showing good coherence between time series signals. Outside the range of good coherence, gross inaccuracies occur.The utility of the co-located gage method is illustrated using water velocity data collected in a wave flume with a laser Doppler velocimeter, and the method is validated for the case of complete reflection by a vertical wall. Side-by-side comparison to the spatially-separated wave gage method of Goda and Suzuki (1976) exhibited close agreement for a variety of irregular wave trains being weakly reflected by a mild sloping beach. The co-located gage method is useful in situations where there are spatial variations in the wavelength, such as on a mildly sloping bottom, or in the region close to highly reflective structures where errors arising from spatial variations in characteristic wave parameters would corrupt estimates made using the spatially-separated wave gage method.     

Large-wave simulation of three-dimensional,cross-shore and oblique,spilling breaking on constant slope beach

In this work, the large-wave simulation (LWS) method is adapted for application in spilling wave breaking over a constant slope beach. According to LWS, large scales of velocities, pressure and free-surface elevation are numerically resolved, while the corresponding unresolved scale effects are taken into consideration by a subgrid scale (SGS) model for wave and eddy stresses. The model may be not fully applicable in very shallow water, close to the shoreline, where the unresolved, turbulent, free-surface oscillation is of the same order with the water depth. Time integration of the Euler equations is achieved by a two-stage fractional scheme, combined with a hybrid scheme for spatial discretization, consisting of finite difference and pseudospectral approximation methods. Model parameters are calibrated by comparison to available experimental data of free-surface elevation and velocities in the surf zone for cross-shore incoming waves. The action of the wave SGS stresses in the outer coastal and surf zones initiates breaking and generates appropriate vorticity, in the form of an eddy structure (surface roller), at the breaking wavefront. At incipient breaking, both advection and gravity contribute to the vorticity flux at the free surface, while only after the full development of the surface roller, the effect of advection becomes stronger. The SGS model is also utilized to simulate propagation, refraction and breaking of oblique incoming waves. The gradual breaking and dissipation of wave crestlines and the surface roller structure along the breaking wavefront are automatically captured without any empirical input, such as data for the roller shape or the wave propagation angle at breaking.     

台风移行速度与登陆角度对风暴潮的影响:一个理想模型数值实验

The effects of hurricane forward speed(V) and approach angle(θ) on storm surge are important and a systematic investigation covering possible and continuous ranges of these parameters has not been done before. Here we present such a study with a numerical experiment using the Finite Volume Community Ocean Model(FVCOM).The hurricane track is simplified as a straight line, such that V and θ fully define the motion of the hurricane. The maximum surge is contributed by both free waves and a forced storm surge wave moving with the hurricane.Among the free waves, Kelvin-type waves can only propagate in the down-coast direction. Simulations show that those waves can only have a significant positive storm surge when the hurricane velocity has a down-coast component. The optimal values of V and θ that maximize the storm surge in an idealized semi-circular ocean basin are functions of the bathymetry. For a constant bathymetry, the maximum surge occurs when the hurricane approaches the coast from the normal direction when the free wave generation is minimal; for a stepped bathymetry, the maximum surge occurs at a certain acute approach angle which maximizes the duration of persistent wind forcing; a step-like bathymetry with a sloped shelf is similar to the stepped bathymetry, with the added possibility of landfall resonance when the free and forced waves are moving at about the same velocity. For other cases, the storm surge is smaller, given other parameters(hurricane size, maximum wind speed, etc.)unchanged.     

Effect of dispersion on impulsive waves

The generation and propagation of surface waves resulting from suddenly created disturbances over water surfaces is investigated. The initial boundary conditions defining the disturbance are given either by a velocity of the free surface, an initial elevation of the free surface or a pressure impulsively applied on the free surface. It is shown that the corresponding three forms of solutions are related by a simple time derivative. Linear solutions are obtained in the cases where the wave motion is assumed to be nondispersive, mildly dispersive and fully dispersive, as well as in the case where the motion is given by the method of stationary phase. Criteria are established to indicate the limit of validity of each method.     

热带气旋风场的计算

基于以前对热带气旋气压场和风场的研究,作者求出一种能适用于任意热带气旋风压结构且具有一定普遍意义的热带气旋风速分布一般式。同时修正了宫崎正卫关于台风合成风风场的假设,将本文求出的热带气旋风速变化规律作为静止热带气旋风速,以热带气旋移行速度V,按到热带气旋中心距离r指数衰减作为大尺度的本底风场,由矢量合成原理求出另一种移行热带气旋风速分布式。新的移行热带气旋风速分布式还考虑到环境气压等因素的影响,从所计算的个例看,计算风速与实际风速较为吻合。此外,在缺乏海上风压资料的情况下,能由任一条封闭等压线的气压和矢径计算热带气旋风场分布。     

Effects of Topography and Current on Horizontal Irrotational Waves in Shallow Water

Based on the Boussinesq assumption,derived are couple equations of free surface elevationand horizontal velocities for horizontal irrotational flow,and analytical expressions of the correspondingpressure and vertical velocity.After the free surface elevation and horizontal velocity at a certain depth areobtained by numerical method,the pressure and vertical velocity distributions can be obtained by simplecalculation.The dispersion at different depths is the same at the O(ε)approximation.The waveamplitude will decrease with increasing time due to viscosity,but it will increase due to the matching ofviscosity and the bed slope.thus,flow is unstable.Numerical or analytical results show that the waveamplitude.velocity and length will increase as the current increases along the wave direction.but theamplitude will increase.and the wave velocity and length will decrease as the water depth decreases.     

Downward transfer of momentum by wind-driven waves

A model for the downward transfer of wind momentum is derived for growing waves. It is shown that waves, which grow due to an uneven pressure distribution on the water surface or a wave-coherent surface shear stress have horizontal velocities out of phase with the surface elevation. Further, if the waves grow in the x-direction, while the motion is perhaps time-periodic at any fixed point, the Reynolds stresses associated with the organized motion are positive. This is in agreement with several field and laboratory measurements which were previously unexplained, and the new theory successfully links measured wave growth rates and measured sub-surface Reynolds stresses. Wave coherent air pressure (and/or surface shear stress) is shown to change the speed of wave propagation as well as inducing growth or decay. From air pressure variations that are in phase with the surface elevation, the influence on the waves is simply a phase speed increase. For pressure variations out of phase with surface elevation, both growth (or decay) and phase speed changes occur. The theory is initially developed for long waves, after which the velocity potential and dispersion relation for linear waves in arbitrary depth are given. The model enables a sounder model for the transfer to storm surges or currents of momentum from breaking waves in that it does not rely entirely on ad-hoc turbulent diffusion. Future models of atmosphere-ocean exchanges should also acknowledge that momentum is transferred partly by the organized wave motion, while other species, like heat and gasses, may rely totally on turbulent diffusion. The fact that growing wind waves do in fact not generally obey the dispersion relation for free waves may need to be considered in future wind wave development models.     

Comparative study on the accuracy of solitary wave generations in an ISPH-based numerical wave flume

In the present study, six solitary wave generations by different mathematical approximations are investigated using a piston type wave maker at dimensionless amplitudes ranging from 0.1 to 0.6 and two water depths. Incompressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics is used to simulate solitary wave propagation along the fixed depth channel. The present numerical results are compared with analytical results and experimental data in terms of free surface displacements, fluid particle velocity, phase speed, paddle motion, etc. The present mesh-free numerical results of wave profile variations over time proved that “Rayleigh” has the lowest relative wave height variation. However, its solitary wave has notable phase lead, while “Third order” and “Ninth order” have the least wave lags. Furthermore, the record of present numerical free surface elevation at different distances and the loss of amplitude of the main pulse showed that regarding both of them, “Ninth order” has supremacy over five others. Considering the numerical velocity components of generated solitary wave, “Third order” and “Ninth order” trace analytical results more accurately than other four ones, whereas “Rayleigh” is the most accurate one in predicting the maximum runup. Finally, the paddle motion, its velocity, and displacement, as well as phase speed and outskirts decay coefficient are also compared and discussed intensely.     

Similarity solution of oblique impact of wedge-shaped water column on wedged coastal structures

The initial stage of plunging wave impact obliquely on coastal structures is analysed. The problem is modelled through an oblique collision of an asymmetrical water wedge and an asymmetrical solid wedge. The gravity effect on the flow is ignored based on the assumption that the ratio of the incoming speed of the wave to the acceleration due to gravity is much larger than the time scale of interest. Similarity solution method based on the velocity potential theory is then used. The problem of this similarity flow is solved by a boundary element method through the Cauchy theorem in the complex plan. Results for the wave elevation and pressure distribution are provided, including the forces and moments, effects of different impact angles and the effects of oblique impact are investigated. In particular, negative pressure near the tip of the solid wedge is observed and its implications are discussed.     

有界赤道大洋波包解及其年际年代际变率

Linearized shallow water perturbation equations with approximation in an equatorial β plane are used to obtain the analytical solution of wave packet anomalies in the upper bounded equatorial ocean. The main results are as follows. The wave packet is a superposition of eastward travelling Kelvin waves and westward travelling Rossby waves with the slowest speed, and satisfies the boundary conditions of eastern and western coasts, respectively.The decay coefficient of this solution to the north and south sides of the equator is inversely proportional only to the phase velocity of Kelvin waves in the upper water. The oscillation frequency of the wave packet, which is also the natural frequency of the ocean, is proportional to its mode number and the phase velocity of Kelvin waves and is inversely proportional to the length of the equatorial ocean in the east-west direction. The flow anomalies of the wave packet of Mode 1 most of the time appear as zonal flows with the same direction. They reach the maximum at the center of the equatorial ocean and decay rapidly away from the equator, manifested as equatorially trapped waves. The flow anomalies of the wave packet of Mode 2 appear as the zonal flows with the same direction most of the time in half of the ocean, and are always 0 at the center of the entire ocean which indicates stagnation, while decaying away from the equator with the same speed as that of Mode 1. The spatial structure and oscillation period of the wave packet solution of Mode 1 and Mode 2 are consistent with the changing periods of the surface spatial field and time coefficient of the first and second modes of complex empirical orthogonal function(EOF)analysis of flow anomalies in the actual equatorial ocean. This indicates that the solution does exist in the real ocean, and that El Ni?o-Southern Oscillation(ENSO) and Indian Ocean dipole(IOD) are both related to Mode 2.After considering the Indonesian throughflow, we can obtain the length of bounded equatorial ocean by taking the sum of that of the tropical Indian Ocean and the tropical Pacific Ocean, thus this wave packet can also explain the decadal variability(about 20 a) of the equatorial Pacific and Indian Oceans.     

Isoparametric Boundary Element Method Applied to the Rectangular and Delta Hydrofoils near the Free Surface

In this paper, the hydrodynamic characteristics and flow field around rectangular and delta hydrofoils, moving with a constant speed beneath the free surface are numerically studied by means of isoparametric boundary element method (IBEM). The quantities (source and dipole strengths) and the geometry of the elements are represented by a linear distribution. Two types of three-dimensional hydrofoils (rectangular and delta) are selected with NACA4412 and symmetric Joukowski sections. Some numerical results of pressure distribution, lift, wave-making drag coefficients and velocity field around the hydrofoils are presented. Also, the wave pattern due to moving hydrofoil is predicted at different operational conditions. Comparisons are made between computational results obtained through this method and those from the experimental measurements and other numerical results which reveal good agreement.     

Waves,long waves and nearshore morphology

Recent field measurements on beaches of different slopes have established that wave motion at periods substantially longer than the incident waves dominates the velocity field close to the shore. Analysis of a number of extensive data sets shows that much of this long wave motion is in the form of progessive edge waves, though forced wave motion, standing edge waves and free waves propagating away from the shore may also contribute to the energy.Theoretically, the drift velocities in bottom boundary layers due to edge waves show spatial patterns of convergence and divergence which may move sediment to form either regular crescentic or cuspate features when only one edge wave mode dominates, or a bewildering array of bars, bumps and holes when several phase-locked modes exist together.Convincing field demonstration of the link between nearshore topography and edge waves only exists for the special case of small-scale beach cusps on steep beaches, formed by edge waves at the subharmonic (twice the period) of the incident waves. At longer periods the link is proving more difficult to establish, due to the longer time-scales of topographic changes, the interaction between pre-existing topography and the water motion, and the observation of broad-banded edge wave motion which is not readily linked to topography with a well-defined scale.These ideas are, however, central to the study of nearshore processes, as most of the plausible alternate hypotheses do not seem to lead to quantitative predictions. Clearly, further theoretical and observational work is essential.     

Unsteady ship waves in shallow water of varying depth based on Green–Naghdi equation

Based on Green–Naghdi equation this work studies unsteady ship waves in shallow water of varying depth. A moving ship is regarded as a moving pressure disturbance on free surface. The moving pressure is incorporated into the Green–Naghdi equation to formulate forcing of ship waves in shallow water. The frequency dispersion term of the Green–Naghdi equation accounts for the effects of finite water depth on ship waves. A wave equation model and the finite element method (WE/FEM) are adopted to solve the Green–Naghdi equation. The numerical examples of a Series 60 (C_B=0.6) ship moving in shallow water are presented. Three-dimensional ship wave profiles and wave resistance are given when the ship moves in shallow water with a bed bump (or a trench). The numerical results indicate that the wave resistance increases first, then decreases, and finally returns to normal value as the ship passes a bed bump. A comparison between the numerical results predicted by the Green–Naghdi equation and the shallow water equations is made. It is found that the wave resistance predicted by the Green–Naghdi equation is larger than that predicted by the shallow water equations in subcritical flow , and the Green–Naghdi equation and the shallow water equations predict almost the same wave resistance when , the frequency dispersion can be neglected in supercritical flows.     

Interactions between nonlinear water waves and non-wall-sided 3D structures

Interactions between water waves and non-wall-sided cylinders are analyzed based on velocity potential theory with fully nonlinear boundary conditions on the free surface and the body surface. The finite element method (FEM) is adopted together with a 3D mesh generated through an extension of a 2D Delaunay grid on a horizontal plane along the depth. The linear matrix equation for the velocity potential is constructed by imposing the governing equation and boundary conditions through the Galerkin method and is solved through an iterative method. By imposing the gradient of the potential equal to the velocity, the Galerkin method is used again to obtain the velocity field in the fluid domain. Simulations are made for bottom mounted and truncated cylinders with flare in a numerical tank. Periodic waves and wave groups are generated by a piston type wave maker mounted on one end of the tank. Results are obtained for forces, wave profiles and wave runups. Further simulations are made for a cylinder with flare subjected to forced motion in otherwise still open water. Results are provided for surge and heave motion in different amplitudes, and for a body moving in a circular path in the horizontal plane. Comparisons are made in several cases with the results obtained from the second order solution in the time domain.     

Wave resistance of a hovercraft moving in water with nonrigid bottom

Surface waves generated by a moving ship in water of finite depth are affected by the rheological properties of the movable bottom. The aim of this work is to evaluate the wave resistance exerted on a hovercraft modeled as a two-dimensional pressure distribution moving on the free surface of water with nonrigid bottom. Analysis of three-dimensional flows in two-fluid layers of finite depths is performed by assuming an inviscid upper layer (water) and a viscous lower layer (nonrigid bottom). Numerical calculations show that the maximum wave resistance occurs in the vicinity of the critical Froude number F=1. This maximum value decreases as the muddy bottom becomes less rigid.     

前板可旋转的双垂板结构水动力特性的理论研究

振荡水柱波能转换装置的最大转换效率往往受到腔内水柱共振机制的直接影响。通过对装置的基本结构进行简化,提出了一种前墙可绕固定轴旋转的双垂板式结构系统,旨在通过前墙的旋转运动进一步加剧水柱的振荡,从而对腔内水柱的共振机制进行调节和控制。基于线性波理论,采用匹配特征函数展开法对波浪与双垂板结构的相互作用进行理论研究,针对流场在结构物尖角附近的奇异性特征,将公共界面上的速度分布基于切比雪夫多项式近似展开,并应用区域间的速度与压力连续条件进行求解。通过分析结构的几何参数对反射透射系数、平均波面高程、前墙旋转振幅以及前墙与水面间相位差的影响,深究其共振机理,为振荡水柱波能转换装置的效率优化机制提供理论依据。结果表明,在所研究的波浪频率范围内,前墙的自由旋转运动会加剧板间的平均波面高程,应用于波浪能转换装置中能进一步拓宽高效频率带宽。