Comparison of Dirichlet–Neumann operator expansions for nonlinear surface gravity waves

The Dirichlet–Neumann operator for the water-wave problem was introduced and expanded by Craig and Sulem [Craig, W., Sulem, C., 1993. [CS] Numerical simulation of gravity waves. J. Comput. Phys. 108, 73–83] and in a slightly different form and for 3D waves by Bateman, Swan and Taylor [Bateman, W.J.D., Swan, C., Taylor, P.H., 2001. [BST] On the efficient numerical simulation of directionally spread surface water waves. J. Comput. Phys. 174, 277–305]. This approach is supposedly superior to techniques derived earlier by West et al. [West, B.J., Brueckner, K.A., Janda, R.S., Milder, D.M., Milton, R.L., 1987. [WW] A new numerical method for surface hydrodynamics. J. Geophys. Res. 92 (C11), 11803–11824] and Dommermuth and Yue [Dommermuth, D.G., Yue, D.K.P., 1987. [DY] A high-order spectral method for the study of nonlinear gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 184, 267–288] under seemingly more restrictive assumptions. This paper extracts the Dirichlet–Neumann operator expansions from West et al. and Dommermuth and Yue. Concerning the operator expansions alone it is found that Bateman et al. is identical to West et al. and Dommermuth and Yue while Craig and Sulem is slightly different due to minor differences in the operator definition. For application to the free-surface boundary conditions West et al. devised a consistent truncation at nonlinear order. This alters the equivalence of the different approaches when it comes to the evaluation of the temporal derivative of the free surface elevation, which is decisive for wave evolution. In this regard Craig and Sulem is found to be identical to West et al. while Bateman et al. is identical to Dommermuth and Yue. Pseudo code is provided for alternative computational schemes in Fourier-space and physical space, respectively, along with a discussion of efficiency and potential flexibility.     

养殖对虾暴发性流行病—中国对虾肝胰腺坏死病研究

1993年我国沿海各省市养殖对虾发生了暴发性流行病,造成了极大的损失。本文报导我们在浙江省舟山市调查和研究的结果,发现肝胰腺坏死杆状病毒和弧菌并发感染是引起对虾死亡的主要原因。     

用X射线分析显微镜对海藻元素的研究Ⅰ.海藻的X射线荧光光谱

X射线分析显微镜(XGT-2000V, Horiba Co.,Japan,1993年制造)是一种新颖、快速的元素分析仪器,可以用来分析海藻中元素的组成特点。本研究对1997年4,5月在山东省威海市采集的22种海藻进行了研究,测定了海藻的Ⅹ射线荧光光谱(XRF),并根据Ⅹ射线特性荧光的能量分析海藻的主要元素组成。然后采用基本参数法(FP法)对每种海藻的主要元素进行了半定量分析。研究结果表明,Ⅹ射线分析显微镜可以快速观测海藻中的主要元素如钾、硫、钙、铁、锌、溴、锶等,是研究元素组成与化学种态的有效的非破坏分析手段。从Ⅹ射线荧光光谱可以看出,绿藻的特征元素是钾、钙、硫,孔石莼(Ulva pertusa)含有较多的铁元素,而浒苔则含有较多的溴元素。褐藻的特征元素除钾、钙、硫之外,还含有较多的锶元素。另外,酸藻 (Desmarestia viridis)含有大量的硫及溴元素,鼠尾藻(Sargassum thunbergii)、单条髓藻(Myelophycus simplex)及酸藻 (Desmarestia viridis)中尚含有较多的铁元素。红藻的特征是多种红藻均含有较大量的溴元素,例如波登仙菜(Ceramium kondai)、松节藻(Rhodomela confervoides)、多管藻(Polysiphonia urceolata)、石花菜(Gelidium amansii)及亮管藻(Hyalosiphonia caespitosa)。另外,珊瑚藻(Corallina pilulifera)中含有大量的钙质。     

人工越冬对虾体内寄生纤毛虫——旋毛蟹栖拟阿脑虫,新亚种的记述

报导了从中国对虾(Penaeus orientalis Kishnouye)越冬亲虾血淋巴内分离的盾纤毛目纤毛虫一新亚种,隶属于嗜污科(Philasteridae)拟阿脑虫属(Paranophrys),系蟹栖拟阿脑虫(Paranophrys carcini)一新地理亚种,定名为旋毛蟹栖拟阿脑虫,新亚种(Paranophrys carcini spiralis subsp.nov.)。本工作对该亚种做了蛋白银染色、银浸法、孚尔根染色,以显示其银线系、纤毛下器及细胞核器,并结合扫描电镜对虫体形态作了观察与鉴定。文内对该亚种的形态学作了描述并列表比较了所在属诸种主要性状特征以及本新亚种与相似种在形态特征上的主要差别,以确定新亚种的成立。     

化学诱变剂在实验海洋食物链中的流动以及遗传毒性的检测——镉在褐指藻→中国对虾→欧氏六线鱼实验食物链中的传递

于1989年3月—1989年9月,利用极谱测定法研究了无机诱变剂Cd在3级实验食物(链从褐指藻经中国对虾至欧氏六线鱼)中的传递,并对积累Cd的中国对虾和欧氏六线鱼肌肉和内脏灰样进行了紫露草微核测定。结果表明,Cd浓度在传递中依次减少;经过6d喂食,Cd从褐指藻到中国对虾的传递比例为66.6％;经过7d喂食,Cd从中国对虾到欧氏六线鱼的传递比例为29.9％。t测验发现,处理组对虾内脏灰样与肌肉灰样之间诱变性差异显著(P<0.01);处理组与对照组对虾内脏灰样之间的诱变性差异亦显著(P<0.01)。     

Response to the Reply by Muraleedharan

Nadarajah [Nadarajah, S., 2008. Letter to the Editor. Coastal Engineering 55, 189–190] pointed out several errors in the paper by Muraleedharan et al. [Muraleedharan, G., Rao, A. D., Kurup, P. G., Unnikrishnan Nair, N., Sinha, M., in press. Modified Weibull distribution for maximum and significant wave height simulation and prediction. Coastal Engineering] which suggested a modified Weibull distribution for maximum and significant wave height simulation and prediction. In response to Nadarajah's [Nadarajah, S., 2008. Letter to the Editor. Coastal Engineering 55, 189–190] comments, Muraleedharan [Muraleedharan, G., 2008. Reply to Saralees Nadarajah. Coastal Engineering 55, 191–193] argued that there were no errors in the original paper by Muraleedharan et al. [Muraleedharan, G., Rao, A. D., Kurup, P. G., Unnikrishnan Nair, N., Sinha, M., in press. Modified Weibull distribution for maximum and significant wave height simulation and prediction. Coastal Engineering]. Here, it is pointed out that the response by Muraleedharan [Muraleedharan, G., 2008. Reply to Saralees Nadarajah. Coastal Engineering 55, 191–193] is at least as incorrect as Muraleedharan et al. [Muraleedharan, G., Rao, A. D., Kurup, P. G., Unnikrishnan Nair, N., Sinha, M., in press. Modified Weibull distribution for maximum and significant wave height simulation and prediction. Coastal Engineering].     

Advances in interscale and interdisciplinary approaches to the South China Sea

The South China Sea (SCS) connects the Pacific Ocean and the Indian Ocean, and acts as an important part in regional and global climate systems (e.g., Qu et al., 2009; Wang et al., 2009). Multi-scale dynamic and biogeochemical processes in the SCS, comprising a hot spot in marginal sea studies, have attracted great attentions from researchers (e.g., Chen et al., 2020; Hu et al., 2020). The South China Sea Annual Meeting (SCSAM) 2021, recently held on October 22–24 in Zhanjiang, China, focused on academic exchanges of the newly research results and progresses in the interdisciplinary multi-scale processes in the SCS. The SCSAM 2021 is the eighth international workshop of the series, which started in April 2013 (Zhu, 2013) and renamed as SCSAM in 2018. There were 90 oral presentations and 57 posters in the meeting this year, which attracted attentions of more than 2000 audiences both on line and on site. This short article summaries the cutting-edge advances in interscale and interdisciplinary approaches to the SCS from the meeting presentations and the associated research.     

Comparison of time-dependent extended mild-slope equations for random waves

The extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [Suh, K.D., Lee, C., Park, W.S., 1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Eng., 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [Lee, C., Kim, G., Suh, K.D., 2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Eng., 48, 277–287] are compared analytically and numerically to determine their applicability to random wave transformation. The geometric optics approach is used to compare the two models analytically. In the model of Suh et al., the wave number of the component wave with a local angular frequency ω is approximated with an accuracy of O(ω − ω¯) at a constant water depth, where ω¯ is the carrier frequency of random waves. In the model of Suh et al., however, the diffraction effects and higher-order bottom effects are considered only for monochromatic waves, and the shoaling coefficient of random waves is not accurately approximated. This inaccuracy arises because the model of Suh et al. was derived for regular waves. In the model of Lee et al., all the parameters of random waves such as wave number, shoaling coefficient, diffraction effects, and higher-order bottom effects are approximated with an accuracy of O(ω − ω¯). This approximation is because the model of Lee et al. was developed using the Taylor series expansion technique for random waves. The result of dispersion relation analysis suggests the use of the peak and weighted-average frequencies as a carrier frequency for Suh et al. and Lee et al. models, respectively. All the analytical results are verified by numerical experiments of shoaling of random waves over a slightly inclined bed and diffraction of random waves through a breakwater gap on a flat bottom.     

江苏淤泥质海岸海岸线分形机理研究

结合国内外分形研究进展,系统探讨了江苏淤泥质海岸海岸线的分形机理问题,指出;江苏海岸的形成受到了构造和河流泥沙淤积的双重作用,而海岸线的走向则受到了构造,河流淤积,滩面物质组成与沿海黄海沿岸流的共同作用;另外,江苏海岸线分维的变化与海岸的淤积和侵蚀有着必然的联系;再者,江苏海岸物质组成具有分形性质,这是江苏海岸线具有分形性质的物质基础。     

中国海域一些水螅水母类种类名的订正

本文订正了中国海水螅水母类分类学名31种,其中有3种新组合,例如青岛双手水母,新改级;厦门枝刺水母,改隶新组合;胶州和平水母,改级新组合。并报道一种我国新纪录的柯氏侧丝水母。     

A linear Boltzmann equation to model wave scattering in the marginal ice zone

We present a linear Boltzmann equation to model wave scattering in the Marginal Ice Zone (the region of ocean which consists of broken ice floes). The equation is derived by two methods, the first based on Meylan et al. [Meylan, M.H., Squire, V.A., Fox, C., 1997. Towards realism in modeling ocean wave behavior in marginal ice zones. J. Geophys. Res. 102 (C10), 22981–22991] and second based on Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136]. This linear Boltzmann equation, we believe, is more suitable than the equation presented in Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136] because of its simpler form, because it is a differential rather than difference equation and because it does not depend on any assumptions about the ice floe geometry. However, the linear Boltzmann equation presented here is equivalent to the equation in Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136] since it is derived from their equation. Furthermore, the linear Boltzmann equation is also derived independently using the argument in Meylan et al. [Meylan, M.H., Squire, V.A., Fox, C., 1997. Towards realism in modeling ocean wave behavior in marginal ice zones. J. Geophys. Res. 102 (C10), 22981–22991]. We also present details of how the scattering kernel in the linear Boltzmann equation is found from the scattering by an individual ice floe and show how the linear Boltzmann equation can be solved straightforwardly in certain cases.     

Reply to discussion of “Measurements of sheet flow transport in acceleration-skewed oscillatory flow and comparison with practical formulations” by D.A. van der A,T. O'Donoghue and J.S. Ribberink

This is a reply to the discussion by Camenen and Larson (Coastal Eng., 58, 2011, 131–134) of “Measurements of sheet flow transport in acceleration-skewed oscillatory flow and comparison with practical formulations” by D.A. van der A et al. (Coastal Eng. 57, 2010, 331–342). The authors of the original paper (Van der A et al., 2010) thank the discussers for their interest in and comments on the work presented in the paper.     

化学诱变剂在实验海洋食物链中的流动以及遗传毒性的检测

于１９８９年３月－１９８９年９月，利用极谱测定法研究了无机诱变剂Ｃｄ在３级实验食物（链从褐指藻经中国对虾至欧氏六线鱼）中的传递，并对积累Ｃｄ的中国对虾和欧氏六线鱼肌肉和内脏灰样进行了紫露草微核测定。结果表明，Ｃｄ浓度在传递中依次减少；经过６ｄ喂食，Ｃｄ从褐指藻到中国对虾的传递比例为６６．６％；经过７ｄ喂食，Ｃｄ从中国对虾到欧氏六线鱼的传递比例为２９．９％。ｔ测验发现，处理组对虾内脏灰样与肌肉灰样之     

Modeling of suspended sediment transport with waveinduced longshore current in Huanghe (Yellow) River Delta

A three-dimensional suspended sediment model(SED)developed by the present authors is coupled with the combinatorial model of COHERENS(Luyten et al.,1999) (the three-dimensional coupled hydrodynamical-ecological model for Regional and Shelf Seas) and SWAN(Holthuijsen et al.,2004) (the third generation wave model).SWAN is regarded as a subroutine of COHERENS and gets time-and space-varying current velocity and surface elevation from COHERENS.COHERENS gets time-and space-varying wave relevant parameters provided by SWAN.Effects of wave on current are applied in bottom shear stress,wave-induced depth-dependent radiation stress and surface drag coefficient calculation.At the same time,the damping function of suspended sediment on turbulence is introduced into COHERENS.So the sediment model SED has feed back on circulation model COHERENS.The SED obtains current as sociated parameters from COHERENS.Then a couple dhydrodynamic-sediment model COHERENS-SED being able to account for interaction between wave and current is obtained.COHERENS-SED is adopted to simulate three-dimensional suspended sediment transport in the Huanghe River delta.In terms of simulation results,there is obvious diffierence between top and bottom layer of wave-induced longshore current.The values of time series of sediment concentration gotten by COHERENS-SED have,generally,an accepted agreement extent with measurement.Significant wave heights and wave periods obtained by COHERENS-SED show that wave simulation case with current’s effect can give better agreement extent with measurement than case without current’s effect.In the meantime,suspended sediment concentration distributing rule obtained by COHERENS-SED is similar to former researches and measurement.     

Historical Gorda Ridge t-phase swarms: relationships to ridge structure and the tectonic and volcanic state of the ridge during 1964–1966

The U.S. Navy’s Sound Surveillance System (SOSUS) hydrophone arrays are extemely efficient receptors of a high-frequency earthquake energy phase known as the t(ertiary)-wave, or t-phase (Fox et al., 1994). After a nearly 30-year hiatus in such studies, SOSUS arrays are again being utilized to detect t-phases and to locate seismic and volcanic events occurring along the Gorda seafloor spreading center (Fox et al., 1995; Fox and Dziak, 1998). Earlier, Northrop et al. (1968) also used other military arrays to infer tectonic structure along the Gorda Ridge. From October 1964 through December 1966, over 600 low-magnitude earthquakes occurred along the Gorda Ridge. Nearly all of these events had magnitudes below the detection thresholds of land-based seismic networks. Northrop et al. (1968) interpreted the geographic distribution of these events as evidence for a nascent fracture zone near the midpoint of the ridge. In the present study, the spatial distributions of these older data and, for the first time, their temporal distributions as well, were examined with respect to detailed bathymetry of the ridge that was acquired in the early 1980s. This analysis, of 570 on-axis and 74 off-axis events, led to the following observations: (1) nearly all of the Gorda Ridge t-phase events occurred in discreet swarms centered about the ridge axis, (2) most of the events within each of 8 (of 9) observed swarms occurred mainly along single ridge segments, and, (3) reconfirming the earlier Northrop et al. (1968) conclusion, most of the events originated in the region of a major change in the strike of the ridge axis. During the 27-month interval that the ridge was observed, relatively few t-phase events took place along the northernmost segment of the Gorda Ridge where the 1996 eruption occurred. However, a unique sequence of small events which visually resemble the events associated with a Juan de Fuca Ridge eruption in 1993 (Fox et al., 1995) and a Gorda Ridge eruption in 1996 (Fox and Dziak, 1998) may have been associated with an eruption on the ridge during 1965.     

电解海水制氯消毒处理对虾培苗海水的研究

我国对虾培苗,自1960年中国科学院海洋研究所在室内获得成功后,现已在沿海养殖场普遍进行工厂化育苗。但由于海湾的污染和致病微生物的危害骤增,影响苗的成活率,有时甚至整池的虾苗死亡。为解决这一问题,有的培苗场采用漂白粉消毒,然后用硫代硫酸钠中和的办法处理培苗海水,既可沉淀部分钙离子,     

A note on wave energy dissipation over steep beaches

This paper revisits the derivation of the parametric surf zone model proposed by Baldock et al. [Baldock, T. E., Holmes, P., Bunker, S. & Van Weert, P. 1998 Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone. Coast. Eng. 34, 173–196.]. We show that a consistent use of the proposed Rayleigh distribution for surf zone wave heights results in modification of the expressions for the bulk dissipation rate and enhanced dissipation levels on steep beaches and over-saturated surf zone conditions. As a consequence, the modification proposed herein renders the model robust even on steep beaches where it could otherwise develop a shoreline singularity.     

Velocity potential formulations of highly accurate Boussinesq-type models

The highly accurate Boussinesq-type equations of Madsen et al. (Madsen, P.A., Bingham, H.B., Schäffer, H.A., 2003. Boussinesq-type formulations for fully nonlinear and extremely dispersive water waves: Derivation and analysis. Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A 459, 1075–1104; Madsen, P.A., Fuhrman, D.R., Wang, B., 2006. A Boussinesq-type method for fully nonlinear waves interacting with a rapidly varying bathymetry. Coast. Eng. 53, 487–504); Jamois et al. (Jamois, E., Fuhrman, D.R., Bingham, H.B., Molin, B., 2006. Wave-structure interactions and nonlinear wave processes on the weather side of reflective structures. Coast. Eng. 53, 929–945) are re-derived in a more general framework which establishes the correct relationship between the model in a velocity formulation and a velocity potential formulation. Although most work with this model has used the velocity formulation, the potential formulation is of interest because it reduces the computational effort by approximately a factor of two and facilitates a coupling to other potential flow solvers. A new shoaling enhancement operator is introduced to derive new models (in both formulations) with a velocity profile which is always consistent with the kinematic bottom boundary condition. The true behaviour of the velocity potential formulation with respect to linear shoaling is given for the first time, correcting errors made by Jamois et al. (Jamois, E., Fuhrman, D.R., Bingham, H.B., Molin, B., 2006. Wave-structure interactions and nonlinear wave processes on the weather side of reflective structures. Coast. Eng. 53, 929–945). An exact infinite series solution for the potential is obtained via a Taylor expansion about an arbitrary vertical position z = zˆ. For practical implementation however, the solution is expanded based on a slow variation of zˆ and terms are retained to first-order. With shoaling enhancement, the new models obtain a comparable accuracy in linear shoaling to the original velocity formulation. General consistency relations are also derived which are convenient for verifying that the differential operators satisfy a potential flow and/or conserve mass up to the order of truncation of the model. The performance of the new formulation is validated using computations of linear and nonlinear shoaling problems. The behaviour on a rapidly varying bathymetry is also checked using linear wave reflection from a shelf and Bragg scattering from an undulating bottom. Although the new models perform equally well for Bragg scattering they fail earlier than the existing model for reflection/transmission problems in very deep water.