双边多单元造波机造波性能分析

由若干独立摇板组成的多单元造波机是实验室研究波浪及其与海洋工程结构物相互作用的重要设备。由于单元摇板宽度和波浪周期对斜向波浪模拟方向角的限制、斜向波浪模拟引起的杂波和三维短峰波浪模拟的有效实验区范围等,是影响多单元造波机波浪模拟质量的关键问题。通过对海洋深水池双边多单元造波机性能的分析,获得了波向角与规则波浪周期的关系,避免杂波产生的波浪周期范围和三维短峰波浪有效实验区的范围。分析结果对于海洋深水池高质量模拟波浪并为海洋工程结构物模型试验提供良好的波浪环境条件具有重要意义。     

分段式造波机生成波的方法和特性

本文叙述了分段式造波机生成波的理论和方法，通过试验确定了造波板前过渡段的长度，研究了分段式造波机生成波浪的特性，并将规则波的试验结果与理论结果进行了比较，给出了有效实验区的范围，可供实际应用时参考。     

Numerical calculation of forces induced by short-crested waves on a vertical cylinder of arbitrary cross-section

Most off-shore oil platforms are supported by vertical cylinders extending to the ocean floor. An important problem in off-shore engineering is the calculation of the wave loading exerted on these vertical cylinders. Analytical solutions have been found for the case of plane incident waves incident on a circular cylinder by MacCamy and Fuchs [(1954), Wave forces on piles: a diffraction theory. U.S. Army Corps of Engineering, Beach Erosion Board, Technical Memorandum No. 69] and also for short-crested waves incident on a circular cylinder by Zhu [(1993), Diffraction of short-crested waves around a circular cylinder. Ocean Engng 20, 389–407]. However, for a cylinder of arbitrary cross-section, no analytic solutions currently exist. Au and Brebbia [(1983), Diffraction of water waves for vertical cylinders using boundary elements. Appl. Math. Modelling 7, 106–114] proposed an efficient numerical approach to calculate the wave loads induced by plane waves on vertical cylinders by using the boundary element method. However, wind-generated waves are better modelled by short-crested waves. Whether or not these short-crested waves can induce larger wave forces on a structure is of great concern to ocean engineers. In this paper wave loads, induced by short-crested incident waves, on a vertical cylinder of arbitrary cross-section are discussed. For a cylinder of certain cross-section, the wave loads induced by short-crested waves can be larger than those induced by plane waves with the same total wave number.     

多向不规则波有效试验区的扩展法

实验室中一般采用分段式造波机来产生斜向或多向波，但其中存在几个问题，最主要的是有效试验区较小。扩大有效试验区的常用方法是采用边墙反射法。本文首先叙述了应用边墙反射产生斜向波和多向波的方法，通过物理模型试验对该方法进行了验证，试验结果表明采用边墙反射的确可以扩大有效试验区的范围。     

Wash Waves Generated by High Speed Displacement Ships

It is difficult to compute far-field waves in a relative large area by using one wave generation model when a large calculation domain is needed because of large dimensions of the waterway and long distance of the required computing points. Variation of waterway bathymetry and nonlinearity in the far field cannot be included in a ship fixed process either. A coupled method combining a wave generation model and wave propagation model is then used in this paper to simulate the wash waves generated by the passing ship. A NURBS-based higher order panel method is adopted as the stationary wave generation model; a wave spectrum method and Boussinesq-type equation wave model are used as the wave propagation model for the constant water depth condition and variable water depth condition, respectively. The waves calculated by the NURBS-based higher order panel method in the near field are used as the input for the wave spectrum method and the Boussinesq-type equation wave model to obtain the far-field waves. With this approach it is possible to simulate the ship wash waves including the effects of water depth and waterway bathymetry. Parts of the calculated results are validated experimentally, and the agreement is demonstrated. The effects of ship wash waves on the moored ship are discussed by using a diffraction theory method. The results indicate that the prediction of the ship induced waves by coupling models is feasible.     

山东省周边海域波浪能资源评估

采用第三代海浪模式SWAN对2001-2010年期间山东省周边海域的波浪状况进行了数值模拟。波浪能数值模拟值与台站观测值的比对结果表明模拟值可靠、实用。分析发现山东省周边海域平均波能流密度以2 000W/m以下为主,低于中国南部海域及欧美沿岸波能流密度。选取12个典型代表点,从波能流密度大小、变化特征、稳定性等角度分析了不同代表点的波浪能情况,发现山东周边波能流密度受气候变化影响近10年来呈上升趋势。综合不同区域波浪能大小及需求情况,建议选取山东半岛东部海域、蓬莱外围岛屿近渤海中部海域和渤海中部海域作为波浪能开发利用的首选区域。其中成山头东部海域波能流密度在冬季高达5 000 W/m,在该季节大部分区域可归为一类资源丰富区。基于此,建议开发利用中小规模的波浪能供电设备或供电设施。     

海冰对海浪影响研究综述

受全球气候变化的影响,极区海浪尤其是北极海浪在过去几十年发生了显著的变化,使得海冰边缘区海冰与海浪的相互作用愈发显著。本文从物理海洋学的角度出发,较系统地总结了海冰对海浪作用研究的国内外现状,从理论和实测的角度分别探讨了海冰对海浪能量的耗散及其引起的波动频散关系的变化,同时分析了当前海冰覆盖海域海浪的数值模拟与现场观测研究,指出了未来开展有冰海域海浪数值模拟与预报所面临的主要问题,并对该方向今后的研究做出展望。总体来看,尽管海冰对海浪作用的机理复杂且与海冰类型高度相关,但是海冰对海浪能量的衰减与传播距离基本呈指数关系,并且海冰会一定程度上影响海浪的传播速度。未来依然需要更多不同海冰类型下海浪的观测数据以开展进一步的机理分析、模型检验和参数校准,进而实现高精度的业务化预报。     

台风浪模拟预报中的风场比较研究

在对模拟台风浪时海浪模式常用的经验模型风场和多重嵌套中尺度气象数值模式风场的结构和时间演变特征进行对比分析的基础上,分别采用这两种风场资料,应用最新版本的第三代海浪模式SWAN对Winnie(1997)引起的台风浪进行了模拟,将模拟的有效波高与TOPEX/POSEIDON和ERS-2卫星高度计资料作了详细的对比分析。结果表明,经验模型风场对实际台风风场的刻画存在诸多缺陷,这些缺陷对于台风浪的准确模拟产生了不可忽视的影响,采用模式风场试验的模拟效果优于采用模型风场的试验。论文提出了在运用海浪模式模拟台风浪时用数值模式模拟风场替代经验模型风场的必要性。     

基于实测数据的台湾海峡中部波浪特征分析 *

利用台湾海峡中部2号大浮标2017年全年的实测波浪资料, 对海浪的基本波要素及其与风的相关性、波谱特性进行统计分析, 得出了重要特征波参数之间的回归关系和适合台湾海峡中部的海浪谱形式。研究结果显示: 1) 台湾海峡中部的常浪向是NE向, 强浪向是NNE向, 月均有效波高的变化范围为0.87~2.98m, 7月波高最小, 12月波高最大, 波周期与波高有着相似的月际变化趋势; 2) 主要波浪类型是以风浪为主的混合浪, 谱型上以单峰为主, 波高与风速整体上呈正相关关系, 大浪主要由台风和强劲的东北季风引起; 3) 波浪的平均周期与大部分特征波周期之间具有良好的线性相关性, NNE、NE方向的波浪有效波高和有效波周期线性相关性较强; 4) 相比于Jonswap谱, 规范谱一是更符合本区域的海浪谱模式, 给出了基于有效波高和谱峰周期拟合的规范谱一形式。这些研究成果可为海洋工程设计和波浪数值模拟提供参考。     

Computation of Long-Term Statistical Properties of Wave Agitation in Harbors

In this paper,the long-term statistical properties of wave height in an idealized square harborwith a partial opening are studied.The incident waves are propagated into the harbor numerically by the fi-nite/infinite element method using three different wave models:(1)monochromatic wave train,(2)long-crested random wave train,and(3)short-crested random wave train.This study shows that for a giv-en incident wave,the wave height in the harbor is affected by the wave model used.For long-term estima-tion of wave height exceedance probability,it is recommended that the waves be propagated into the har-bor using the random wave model,and that wave heights be computed by use of the Rayleigh probabilitydistribution.     

二维海浪波包跨水平特征量及其应用

将Adler关于二维随机波场跨水平特征量的理论应用于二维线性随机海浪,严格导出了二维海浪波包的跨水平特征量表达式,并利用该式讨论了给定时刻二维海浪的一种几何结构——大波簇集情况。对于海面上波高均超过较高参考水平的一簇大波,给出了一个计算其中波峰平均个数的公式,它与Glazman所给出的公式不同另外还给出计算上述大波簇平均面积的公式。最后结合现有的海浪万向谱给出一些具体计算结果,并对这些结果进行了讨论。     

海南东方近岸海域海浪观测特征研究

利用海南东方近岸海域2014年至2015年间一整年的海浪观测资料, 分析了海浪的时间变化特征。观测时间段内, 有效波高最大值为4.03m, 平均值0.79m; 平均周期最大值为6.32s, 平均值为3.58s。该海域冬季波高较大, 秋季最小, 常浪向为SSW方向, 强浪向为WSW向。基于该长期观测数据, 文章亦研究了平均周期、有效波高之间的关系, 同时还确立了该海域波高与平均持续时间之间的关系。最后讨论了观测时间段内波浪能流密度的变化特征, 发现一年中能流密度大于2kW·m^-1的频率为26%, 且从全年的计算结果来看, 观测位置处12月的波浪能较适宜开发, 但总体波浪能资源不够丰富。文章对于认识海南东方近岸海域波浪特征以及工程设计都具有重要的意义。     

Difference-frequency wave loads on a large body in multi-directional waves

The second-order difference-frequency wave forces on a large three-dimensional body in multi-directional waves are computed by the boundary integral equation method and the so-called FML formulation (assisting radiation potential method). Semi-analytic solutions for a bottom-mounted vertical circular cylinder are also developed to validate the numerical method. Difference-frequency wave loads on a bottom-mounted vertical cylinder and stationary four legs of the ISSC tension-leg platform (TLP) are presented for various combinations of incident wave frequencies and headings. These force quadratic transfer functions (QTF) can directly be used in studying slowly varying wave loads in irregular short-crested seas described by a particular directional spectrum. From our numerical results, it is seen that the slowly varying wave loads are in general very sensitive to the directional spreading function of the sea, and therefore wave directionality needs to be taken into account in relevant ocean engineering applications. It is also pointed out that the uni-directionality of the sea is not necessarily a conservative assumption when the second-order effects are concerned.     

层化海洋中二阶多色波对可渗透结构的绕射问题

可渗透结构具有使波浪作用减弱的效应,而海水的层化及水波的非线性使结构的波绕射产生多层复杂机制。将可渗透结构应用于复杂海况条件中,海水的层化性、波浪的非线性及结构的透空性构成了波绕射的一个十分复杂的数学问题。该问题存在理论研究的必要性,而文章则着重探讨其数学分析的可能性。通过引入二层海的层化海模式及Stokes二阶波的非线性波模式,给出了二阶多色波对透空结构的波绕射的定解问题提法,提出了复合形式的二阶多色波辐射条件式及可渗透结构的二阶物面条件式,应用特征函数解法与积分法推导了多色波对结构绕射的一阶势解与二阶作用的耦合积分解式,并讨论了解式所涉及无穷积分的算法。     

Oceanic pycnocline depth retrieval from SAR imagery in the existence of solitary internal waves

Oceanic pycnocline depth is usually inferred from in situ measurements. It is attempted to estimate the depth remotely. As solitary internal waves occur on oceanic pycnocline and propagate along it, it is possible to retrieve the depth indirectly in virtue of the solitary internal waves. A numerical model is presented for retrieving the pycnocline depth from synthetic aperture radar （SAR） images where the solitary internal waves are visible and when ocean waters are fully stratified. This numerical model is constructed by combining the solitary internal wave model and a two-layer ocean model. It is also assumed that the observed groups of solitary internal wave packets on the SAR imagery are generated by local semidiurnal tides. A case study in the East China Sea shows a good agreement with in situ CTD （conductivity-temperature-depth） data.     

波浪作用下桶形基础冲刷特性试验研究

在设计结构和考虑有效的海洋工程基础的冲刷防护工程时,了解和预测海洋结构周围的冲刷发展机理是非常重要的。通过波流水槽研究规则波作用下桶形基础的冲刷特性,试验主要考虑波高与结构尺寸对桶形基础周围局部冲刷的影响,并分析波浪冲刷过程中模型周围的时程地形、波浪作用后的冲刷坑性状、冲刷影响要素以及不同结构间的冲刷差异。结果表明:桶形基础的冲刷过程是震荡加深发展,最大冲刷深度与冲刷宽度随波高增大而增加,随上部结构直径增大而增加,最大冲刷深度位置随波高与结构尺寸变化而变化;不同结构间的冲刷坑形态与冲刷后的地形不同,最大冲刷深度相差可高达4倍;桶形基础结构直径比范围为0.2～0.5时,结构自身具有防冲刷能力。     

Transformation and Breaking of Irregular Waves on Very Gentle Slopes

—Based on theoretical analysis.numerical calculation.and experimental study,this paper dis-cusses breaker indices of irregular waves.transformation of wave spectrum.characteristics and computa-tion of breaking waves.as well as the critical beach slope under which waves will not break.Computed re-sults are in good agreement with laboratory physical model test data and ocean wave field measurements.     

风暴潮对海浪影响的数位研究

采用第三代海浪模式和线性全流风暴潮模式计算封闭海域内风暴潮对风浪的影响。海浪模式中包含水深变化及平均流变化引起的波浪绕射项。计算了不同风速和不同静水深情况下风暴潮引起的风浪波南的变化。计算结果表明：静水深为１０ｍ及风速为３０ｍ／３时，风暴潮引起的风浪波高的相对变化的最大值达３９％；而静水深超过４０ｍ时，即使风速为４０ｍ／ｓ，风暴潮引起的风浪波高的相对变化的最大值小于５％。     

气压生波的数值模似

目前海岸工程实验室中几乎都采用推板或摇板式生波机产生实验研究所需要的波浪。对于波浪、潮流、泥沙模型而言,这种生波机有两个缺点：一是妨碍潮流、泥沙的运移,二是产生二次反射使波浪场失真。是向水面喷压气体的气压装置来产生波浪,用于波浪、潮流、泥沙模型,可以避免上述两个缺点。本文通过数值模拟,认为这种方法是可行的。     

"苏拉"和"达维"双台风过程中台风浪和海温的数值模拟

本文基于FVCOM-SWAVE耦合模型,以双台风"苏拉"和"达维"的台风过程为例,研究了台风过程中海浪和海温的变化,通过与高度计和Argo资料的对比,发现耦合模型能较准确的模拟出有效波高和海表面温度。由于双台风风场相互作用,风场结构和最大风速位置发生改变,影响着有效波高的分布,台风"苏拉"产生的最大有效波高位于台风后侧。海表面温度的降低与风场、浪场分布密切相关,强风强浪处的降温现象更明显,"苏拉"产生的降温区域位于路径附近,"达维"产生的降温区域位于路径右侧。台风对海表面温度的降低与初始的混合层厚度、温跃层强度存在相关性,具体表现为初始的混合层越薄、温跃层强度越大,降温越明显。