二维沙质海滩剖面形态试验研究

海滩形态是近岸过程与海岸工程的一个重要研究内容,为探讨人工沙滩平衡剖面的形成及其形态特征和波浪作用下的滩面泥沙运动,从泥沙与波浪运动的相似规律出发,采用天然沙以正态整体模型进行二维沙质海滩的形态试验.试验证明人工沙质海滩在波浪作用一定时间之后,其剖面基本趋于一种平衡状态,沙源的向岸推移和向海下拉的情况也基本稳定.试验显示混合波的冲刷要大于单纯斜向波,单纯斜向波的冲刷大于单纯正向波,因此人工沙质海滩施工时应考虑到不同来波方向对剖面的影响.对比各个系列的整个人工沙质海滩剖面变化情况,可以看出整个沙滩剖面呈冲刷形态:从岸向海方向,在滩肩平台上形成一定的沙源堆积体;在滩肩缘到斜坡中部侵蚀最大,在斜坡下部侵蚀较小且向海呈逐渐减小趋势.     

海滩体积时空变化和波浪场的奇异谱分析

海滩响应波浪动力作用的变化是海岸带陆海相互作用研究的重要内容.利用奇异谱分解方法对南湾海滩连续实测剖面的体积变化值与南湾逐日波高变化值的相关关系进行了探讨,以诊断分析波浪在海滩变化过程中的内在作用机制,结果表明:(1)海滩体积的时空变化与波浪作用力有明显的相关关系;(2)海滩响应波浪动力作用变化最明显的地方是在中间岸段,在直线岸段次之,在遮蔽岸段最弱;(3)对海滩变化有较强作用的波浪场分别位于近岸及其与上下岬角连线的邻近区域.     

季节性波浪动力作用下南湾弧形岸滩泥沙横向输运特征

响应季节性波候作用的泥沙输运特征是研究弧形海滩地貌变化及港工建筑的重要内容。基于南湾弧形海滩实际测量的冬、夏各11条剖面高程变化资料,将其划分为低潮间带、低中潮带、中潮带、高潮间带、低冲流带、中冲流带及其海滩后滨等7带,在此基础上利用经验正交函数(EOF)方法对各个带的体积变化进行分析,结果表明:1)南湾弧形海滩的泥沙以单向输运为主,并具有季节性变化特征,其中冬季泥沙在东南浪作用下,自陆向海输运,夏季泥沙在西南浪作用下自海向陆输运;2)南湾弧形海滩的泥沙分别在高潮带与中潮带、低冲流带与中冲流带之间存在频繁的双向输运;3)南湾弧形海滩不同岸段泥沙的横向输运因岬角的遮蔽能力、地形以及波浪作用的方向而有所差异。     

半遮蔽型海滩剖面长期时空演化过程的经验正交函数分析

半遮蔽型海滩由于一侧海岬的差异作用而影响海滩的演变过程。本文以青岛石老人海水浴场海滩为例,基于对3条典型剖面连续11年现场监测的高程数据,利用经验正交函数(empirical orthogonalfunction,EOF)分析方法将该海滩各剖面高程数据组成的原始距平矩阵依次分解为相应的空间和时间特征函数,分析了石老人海滩的形态演化特征、蚀淤趋势及驱动因素,并采用方差总占比超过77%的前3个经验正交函数来反映此类海滩的基本演化情况,分别为:表征长时间尺度砂质海滩滩面最主要蚀淤变化趋势的第一模态、表征季节性蚀淤变化及其引起的滩肩剖面形成增长或削弱消亡的第二模态和表征人类活动、偶发因素或海岸地形等引起的具有随机性的不规律蚀淤变化的第三模态。结果表明:11年来石老人海滩经历了三个阶段,第一阶段为平稳期(2009年1月—2011年7月),第二阶段为突变期(2011年7月—2012年9月),该阶段之后至今,是第三阶段的平稳期(2012年9月—2019年12月)。海滩剖面在自然和人类活动影响下的高程变化范围在0.1—2.0m范围内。波浪是影响该海滩形态演化的最主要水动力因素,岬角对半遮蔽型海滩的差异庇护作用导致不同位置的剖面演化存在差异。高频率台风的影响、海平面阶段性升高并长期保持较高水平导致了远离岬角的开放岸段存在明显阶段性调整,剖面滩肩宽度减少约30m,岬湾内部剖面则相对稳定,目前海滩剖面形态在第二阶段突变期后达到了新的稳定状态。     

海陆相互作用下粤东岬湾海岸剖面的侵蚀演变

粤东海域海洋动力作用较强,平均波高0.9—1.3m,最大碎波水深5.9—10.0m,海流流速10—60cm.s-1。粤东岬湾海岸剖面中段处于侵蚀演变态势。文章基于海陆相互作用下的界面理论,阐述了在大浪或强浪情况下,碎波带波浪水动力强度最大值和底剪应力的分布及其对海底沉积物搬运和造成地形侵蚀的机理;另外,在海流作用下,海洋水团底层流速所形成的底剪应力亦可引起海底基岩侵蚀和沉积物的搬运堆积,改变地貌形态。文章最后得出岬湾海岸剖面变化的2种基本模式,即基岩海岸岬角剖面形态发育模式和湾内沉积性海岸剖面形态发育模式。前者剖面上部为陡壁,下部呈缓凹型;后者剖面为凹型,滨线有一定进退演变。     

以3个典型个例探讨养护海滩侵蚀热点的特征及其成因类型

基于厦门香山—长尾礁海滩、北戴河西海滩和平潭龙凤头海滩3个典型海滩养护后多期地形地貌测量数据、观测记录和遥感影像等,分析了养护海滩侵蚀热点的分布和形态特征,探讨了各处侵蚀热点的形成原因和控制因素.从野外调查来看,侵蚀热点在各养护海滩皆有分布,热点宽度为20 ～260 m不等.研究表明沿岸水下地形、排污管道的布设、岬角和岸线走向突变是诱发侵蚀热点的主要因素,具体表现为:(1)沿岸水下地形分布有离岸潜堤、沙坝、带有缺口的连续暗礁等结构时,会因波浪绕射引起波能辐聚而造成沙滩局部的强侵蚀,形成侵蚀热点;(2)排污管道的埋设会阻断沉积物的沿岸运移,会在其下游形成侵蚀热点;(3)岬湾海岸两端岬角或者人工拦沙堤对波浪的折射和反射作用会造成岬角周边局部强侵蚀;(4)养护海滩岸线方向突变,特别是向海凸出的岸线,波浪会使这一位置岸线趋于平滑,造成突变点的强侵蚀.     

基于能量关系的海滩剖面形态

海滩位于海陆之间的动力敏感地带 ,海滩剖面是近岸过程的一个重要概念。海滩剖面形态受波浪、泥沙、沿岸流、地质等诸多因素的影响 ,使得海滩剖面时空变化极为复杂 ,对其研究具有重要的理论意义。另一方面 ,海滩作为海岸带资源的重要组成部分 ,与人们的生产关系极为密切 ,特别是在高能量的波浪或风暴作用下 ,海滩的巨大变化将对海岸生产设施和海岸工程造成极大的破坏 ,生产和管理部门对此也给予了高度的重视 ,因而这种研究也具有现实运用价值。1　不同能量状况的海滩剖面基本形态根据海滩所受的能量状况的不同 ,研究者常把海滩剖面分为涌浪…     

粤东靖海湾海岸地貌动力演变及其工程影响

受人为工程的影响,相对稳定的岬湾海岸地貌常经历显著的动态调整。本文以粤东靖海湾典型岬湾海岸为例,运用Mc Laren模型、波浪动力场数值模拟、等深线对比、冲淤计算等多种方法,从海岸地貌动力学角度,对人为岬角工程前后岬湾海岸地貌动力过程和冲淤演变进行综合分析。结果表明:1)海岸地貌动力系统内常存在负反馈机制以维持系统的稳定。岬角工程后上岬角防波堤沿SSW延伸,ESE和E向浪经过防波堤时发生绕射,波能削减,湾顶动力减弱,海滩沉积物从下岬角向湾顶反向运移;2)海滩的蚀积状态在工程前后发生了转换,工程前遮蔽段侵蚀、开敞段堆积;工程后遮蔽段堆积、开敞段侵蚀;3)海湾水下地形对岬角工程的响应敏感,工程后海湾水下地形冲淤剧烈。     

波浪作用下淤泥质海滩剖面侵蚀过程的计算模式——以江苏北部淤泥质海岸为例

本文以江苏北部连云港—灌河口之间淤泥质海岸为研究对象,建立了在潮水位变动状态下淤泥质海滩剖面上破碎波浪冲蚀力的计算式,并根据海滩侵蚀过程中沉积物质构成的变化,提出了“蚀滩浪”的概念,以此建立了淤泥质海滩侵蚀演变模式,此模式揭示了淤泥质海滩侵蚀过程中剖面形态变化特征,较好地复演了连云港地区海岸的侵蚀演变过程。     

山东半岛东、北部海滩动力地貌特征及影响因素

根据2003—2006年进行的5次重复测量海滩剖面、海滩平面形态及波浪-沉积物参数(Dean参数),对山东半岛东、北部典型海滩进行动力地貌类型的划分;通过对比研究区域北部海滩、东部海滩剖面季节性变化的不同,研究其与波浪条件的关系。结果表明:1)波浪-沉积物参数在该地区动力地貌类型划分中具有指标性,北部海滩以消散型和过渡型为主,而东部海滩主要为过渡型和反射型的海滩。2)海滩砂坝和海滩剖面形态显示北部海滩和东部海滩的在冬夏有相反的变化趋势。北部夏季风浪小,易出现海滩砂坝;而东部冬季风浪小,剖面上易出现海滩砂坝。3)大部分岸段同时受到波浪和潮汐的作用,但是波浪条件的季节性不同,仍然对海滩地貌起主要作用。     

Microbial Biomass and Organic Nutrients in the Deep-Sea Sediments of the Central Indian Ocean Basin

In order to assess the impact of deep-sea mining on the in situ benthic life, we measured the microbial standing stock and concentration of organic nutrients in the deep-sea sediments of the Central Indian Ocean Basin in the Indian pioneer area. Sediments were collected using box core and grab samples during September 1996. The total bacterial numbers ranged from 10 10 -10 11 cells per g -1 dry weight sediment. There was a marginal decrease in the number of bacteria from surface to 30 cm depth, though the subsurface section registered a higher number than did the surface. The highest numbers were encountered at depths of 4-8 cm. The retrievable number of bacteria were two orders less in comparison with the direct total counts of bacteria. An almost homogeneous distribution of bacteria, total organic carbon, living biomass, and lipids throughout the depth of cores indicates active microbial and benthic processes in the deep sea sediments. On the other hand, a uniform distribution of total counts of bacteria, carbohydrates, and total organic carbon in all the cores indicates their stable nature and suggests that they can serve as useful parameters for long-term monitoring of the area after the benthic disturbance. Further studies on temporal variability in this region would not only verify the observed norms of distribution of these variables but would also help to understand restabilization processes after the simulated benthic disturbance.     

Assessing the Validity of Seismo-Acoustic Predictor Equations for Obtaining Seabed and Sub-Surface Sediment Physical Properties

The interdependence between the seismo-acoustic properties of a marine sediment and its geotechnical/physical parameters has been known for many years, and it has been postulated that this should allow the extraction of geotechnical information from seismic data. Though in the literature many correlations have been published for the surficial layer, there is a lack of information for greater sediment depths. In this article, a desktop study on a synthetic seafloor model illustrates how the application of published near-surface prediction equations to subsurface sediments (up to several tens of meters burial depth) can lead to spurious predictions. To test this further, acoustic and geotechnical properties were measured on a number of sediment core samples, some of which were subjected to loading in acoustically-equipped consolidation cells (oedometers) to simulate greater burial depth conditions. For low effective pressures (representing small burial depths extending to around 10 meters subsurface), the general applicability of established relationships was confirmed: the prediction of porosity, bulk density, and mean grain size from acoustic velocity and impedance appears generally possible for the investigated sedimentary environments. As effective pressure increases through, the observed relationships deviate more and more from the established ones for the near-surface area. For the samples tested in this study, in some instances increasing pressure even resulted in decreasing velocities. There are several possible explanations for this abnormal behavior, including the presence of gas, overconsolidation, or bimodal grain size distribution. The results indicate that an appropriate depth correction must be introduced into the published prediction equations in order to obtain reliable estimates of physical sediment properties for greater subsurface depths.     

Geoacoustic Inversion via Genetic Algorithm and Its Application to Manganese Sediment Identification

An acoustic inversion method using a wide-band signal and two near field receivers is proposed and applied to multiple layered seabed models including a manganese sediment. The inversion problem can be formulated into a probabilistic model comprised of signals, a forward model, and additive noise. The forward model simulates wide-band signals, such as chirp signals, and is chosen to be the source-waveletconvolution plane wave modeling method. The wavelet matching technique, using weighted least-squares fitting, estimates the sediment sound-speed and thickness on which determination of the possible numerical ranges for a priori uniform distribution is based. The genetic algorithm is applied to a global optimization problem to find a maximum a posteriori solution for determined a priori search space. Here the object function is defined by an L 2 norm of the difference between measured and modeled signals. Not only the marginal pdf but also its statistics are calculated by numerical evaluation of integrals using the samples selected during importance sampling process of the genetic algorithm.     

海上大直径钢管桩打桩过程中桩周土强度弱化研究

海上大直径钢管桩打桩过程中,桩周土体受到强烈扰动而发生强度弱化,掌握桩周土体强度弱化规律对于准确预测打桩过程、保证工程安全具有重要意义。为研究土体强度弱化规律,开展了环剪试验模拟打桩对桩周土体的扰动,测试土体强度随剪切速率的变化规律,建立了描述土体强度弱化规律的拟合公式,引入到打桩分析软件中。研究结果表明：土体的强度折减程度不仅与土体本身的性质有关还受到土体的埋深和剪切速率的影响,埋深越深土体强度折减程度越低,剪切速率越高土体强度折减越高,在打桩分析中可采用这里推荐的线性折减方法来模拟不同深度处土体强度的折减规律。     

Interannual Sea Level Variations and Annual Tides in the Northwestern Pacific

Specific properties of the interannual sea level variations and annual tides in the Northwestern Pacific were studied. Several tide stations were monitored. The monthly mean sea level for the year of 1995 was analyzed at each tide station. A seismic event in 1995, some tectonic activity around the subject area, and the Kuroshio (the oceanic western boundary current) may possibly contaminate results which would have occurred from the astronomical annual tide alone.     

Flow Cytometric Analysis of Coastal Lagoon Bacterioplankton and Picophytoplankton: Fixation and Storage Effects

The effect of different fixation and storage protocols on the flow cytometric (FCM) simultaneous analysis of bacterioplankton and phytoplankton in coastal seawater samples (Mediterranean coastal lagoons) was investigated. FCM measurements (cell number, fluorescence and scatter characteristics) were obtained through DAPI staining. Three fixatives [glutaraldehyde (GA), formaldehyde (FA) and paraformaldehyde (PFA)] and two storage (3 months duration) methods (5 °C and −196 °C) were tested. Two dominant populations were detected in studied samples: bacteria and eukaryotic picophytoplankton. Adding fixatives (2% final concentration) appears necessary to obtain FCM exhaustive counts of all the bacteria and phytoplanktonic cells. This was related to the permeation effect of fixatives which allowed a better DAPI staining of the cells. Maximum fluorescence, i.e. optimal staining of the cells was obtained with FA or PFA, and significant lower fluorescences with GA. Fixed samples stored at 5 °C induced rapid cell loss. Only storage in liquid nitrogen of samples fixed with FA or PFA, allows mid-term (≥4 months) preservation of bacteria or picophytoplankton cell numbers, and limited evolution of DAPI-induced fluorescence and scatter characteristics.     

Deep-Sea Sediment Compression Curves: Some Controlling Factors, Spurious Overconsolidation, Predictions, and Geophysical Reproduction

Oedometer tests have been carried out on 70 undisturbed surficial clays (at approximately 250 mm below the mudline), mostly collected by free-fall corers from sites widely scattered throughout the deep-sea North Atlantic. Acoustic measurements were also made, initially on contiguous samples and ultimately on the same sample using a geophysically instrumented oedometer which also collected electrical resistivity data. Apart from those quiescent areas below the carbonate compensation depth, such as north of the West Indies where very fine clays exist, most of the samples are silty clays whose geotechnical-geophysical properties are dependent on the type of clay minerals present (and their ability to take in moisture), the sand-size fraction, and the quantity of carbonate present. Thus the pure clays have high compressibilities which decrease on the addition of coarse particles, while the converse is true for the acoustic parameters, these increasing with the sand fraction. Using the notion of the intrinsic compression line for all samples, and comparison to it of the measured compression curves, it is clear that, contrary to some previously held ideas, most deep-sea clays are normally consolidated; the addition of carbonate has the effect of creating an open, stronger sediment skeleton. Interestingly, where information is available, the variation with depth of a sample's acoustic velocity follows the void ratio pressure relationship of the compression curve. This allows the construction of an in-situ sediment compression curve using the in-situ geophysical observations.     

INFORMATION FOR AUTHORS

<正>Acta Oceanologica Sinica(AOS)is a comprehensive academic journal edited by the Editorial Committee of Acta Oceanologica Sinica and is designed to provide a forum for important research papers of the marine scientific community which reflect the information on a worldwide basis.The journal publishes scholarly papers on marine science and technology,including physics,chemistry,biology,