A Model for Nonlinear Irregular Waves in Coastal Area

Based on the refraction-diffraction theory of irregular waves in the waters of slowly-varying cur-rents and depths,and the generation dissipation theory of wind wave,a model for nonlinear irregular wavesin coastal area is developed.In light of the specific conditions of coastal wave character and engineering ap-plication,a practical mathematical model for the nonlinear irregular waves is presented.with directional spec-trum in coastal area.Coast effect,refraction,whitecapping.bottom friction.current,wind and nonlinearaction are considered in this model.The numerical methods and schemes for wave refraction ray,energy con-servation of propagation,energy balance of the generation and dissipation of wind waves have been studied.Finally,the model is used for the directional wave spectrum computation in the Daya Bay.Compared withthe measured data with 956 wave bouys in the Daya Bay,the model results are in good agreement with themeasured results.     

海啸波传播的线性和非线性特征及近海陆架效应影响的数值研究

浅水方程被广泛应用于海啸预警报业务及研究,而针对线性浅水方程与非线性浅水方程在不同海区水深地形条件下的适用范围、计算效率问题是海啸研究人员急需了解的。本文应用基于浅水方程的海啸数值预报模型就海啸波在南海、东海传播的线性、非线性特征以及陆架对其传播之影响进行了数值分析研究。海啸波在深水的传播表征为强线性特征,此时线性系统对海啸波幅的模拟计算具有较高的精度和效率,而弱的非线性特征及弱的色散特征对海啸波幅的预报影响甚微,可以忽略不计。海啸波传播至浅水大陆架后受海底坡度变化、海底粗糙度等因素影响,波动的非线性效应迅速传播、积累,与线性浅水方程计算的海啸波相比表现出较大差异,主要表现为:在南海区,水深小于100m时,海啸波首波以后的系列波动非线性特征比较明显,两者波幅差别较大,但首波波幅的区别不大,因此对于该区域在不考虑海啸爬高的情况下,应用线性系统计算得到的海啸波幅也可满足海啸预警报的要求;在东海区由于陆架影响,海啸波非线性特征明显增强,水深小于100m区域,首波及其后系列波波幅均差异较大,故在该区域必须考虑海啸波非线性作用。本文就底摩擦项对海啸波首波波幅的影响进行了数值对比分析,结果表明:底摩擦作用对海啸波首波波幅影响仅作用于小于100m水深。最后,该文通过敏感性试验,初步分析了陆架宽度及陆架边缘深度对海啸波波幅的影响,得出海啸波经陆架传播共振、变形后,海啸波幅的放大或减小与陆架的宽度及陆架边缘水深有关。     

An extended time-dependent numerical model of the mild-slope equation with weakly nonlinear amplitude dispersion

In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended ellip- tic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. (2003), the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. (2007)’s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly vary- ing topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study: (1) wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope (Berkhoff et al., 1982); (2) Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples (Davies and Heathershaw, 1985); (3) wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater (Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986). Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models (REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model) show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone.     

Numerical modeling of the long surface waves scattering for the 2011 Japan tsunami: Case study

The March 11, 2011, megaquake caused a catastrophic tsunami recorded throughout the Pacific. This paper presents an analysis of the sea-level records obtained from deep-water tsunami meters (DART and NEPTUNE). To evaluate the effect of the sea-level oscillations’ decay, a statistical analysis of observations and numerical modeling of tsunami generation and propagation have been conducted. The main goal is to uncover physical mechanisms of the tsunami wave field formation and evolution at scales up to tens of thousands of kilometers in space and a few days in time. It is shown that the tsunami lifetime is related to the wave-energy diffusion and dissipation processes. The decay time of the variance of the tsunami-generated level oscillations is about 1 day. Multiple reflections and scattering by irregularities of the bottom topography make the field of the secondary tsunami waves stochastic and incoherent: the distribution of the wave energy in the ocean reaches a statistical equilibrium in accordance with the Rayleigh-Jeans law of equipartition of the wave energy per degree of freedom. After the tsunami front has passed, the secondary-wave energy density turns out to be inversely proportional to the water depth.     

An Extended Mild-Slope Equation

On the assumption that the vortex and the vertical velocity component of the current aresmall,a mild-slope equation for wave propagation on non-uniform flows is deduced from the basichydrodynamic equations,with the terms of (V_hh)~2 and (V_h~2)h included in the equation.The terms of bot-tom friction,wind energy input and wave nonlinearity are also introduced into the equation.The wind en-ergy input functions for wind waves and swells are separately considered by adopting Wen′s(1989)empiri-cal formula for wind waves and Snyder′s observation results for swells.Thus,an extended mild-slope equa-tion is obtained,in which the effects of refraction,diffraction,reflection,current,bottom friction,wind en-ergy input and wave nonlinearity are considered synthetically.     

Energy balance of wind waves as a function of the bottom friction formulation

Four different expressions for wave energy dissipation by bottom friction are intercompared. For this purpose, the SWAN wave model and the wave data set of Lake George (Australia) are used. Three formulations are already present in SWAN (ver. 40.01): the JONSWAP expression, the drag law friction model of Collins and the eddy–viscosity model of Madsen. The eddy–viscosity model of Weber was incorporated into the SWAN code. Using Collins' and Weber's expressions, the depth- and fetch-limited wave growth laws obtained in the nearly idealized situation of Lake George can be reproduced. The wave model has shown the best performance using the formulation of Weber. This formula has some advantages over the other formulations. The expression is based on theoretical and physical principles. The wave height and the peak frequency obtained from the SWAN runs using Weber's bottom friction expression are more consistent with the measurements. The formula of Weber should therefore be preferred when modelling waves in very shallow water.     

Static wave setup with emphasis on damping effects by vegetation and bottom friction

Wave setup can contribute significantly to elevated water levels during severe storms. In Florida we have found that wave setup can be 30% to 60% of the total 100-year storm surge. In areas with relatively narrow continental shelves, such as many locations along the Pacific Coast of the United States, wave setup can be an even larger proportionate contributor of anomalous water levels during major storms. Wave setup can be considered as comprising two components, with the first being the well-known static wave setup resulting from the transfer of breaking wave momentum to the water column. The second, oscillating component, is a result of nonlinear transfer of energy and momentum from the primary (linear) spectrum to waves with length and time scales on the order of the wave groups.Static wave setup is the focus of this paper with emphasis on effects due to internal or surface forces that act on the wave system and cause both dissipation of wave energy and transfer of momentum. In particular, the effects of wave damping by vegetation and bottom friction are considered. Linear wave theory is applied to illustrate these effects and, for shallow water waves, the setup is reduced by two-thirds the amount that would occur if the same amount of energy dissipation occurred in the absence of forces. Effects of nonlinear waves are then considered and it is found, for a shallow water wave of approximately one-half breaking height, that a wave setdown rather than setup occurs due to damping by vegetation and bottom friction.The problem of wave setup as waves propagate through vegetation was stimulated by studies to establish hazard zones associated with 100-year storm events along the shorelines of the United States. These storms can generate elevated water levels exceeding 4 to 6 m and can result in overland wave propagation. As these waves propagate through vegetation and damp, the question arose as to the contribution of this process to elevated mean water levels through additional wave setup.     

莫桑比克海峡及其邻近海区正压潮流数值模拟与能量收支分析*

莫桑比克海峡及其邻近海区是全球海洋潮流和潮能耗散最强的海区之一。文章利用高分辨率通用环流模式对该海区的正压潮流进行模拟, 并对该海区潮能通量和潮能耗散特征进行分析。结果表明, 莫桑比克海峡及其邻近海区的潮波主要是半日分潮占主导地位, 全日分潮可忽略不计, M₂分潮形成1个左旋潮波系统和1个右旋潮波系统, S₂分潮形成1个左旋潮波系统。莫桑比克海峡和马达加斯加岛南部等绝大数区域的M₂和S₂半日潮流是逆时针旋转, 在马达加斯加岛顶部等局部区域是顺时针旋转, 而且在海峡通道等复杂地形处潮流流速量级较大。潮能通量矢量主要来自东边界, 大部分潮能通量沿马达加斯岛北部传入莫桑比克海峡区域, 其中经过马达加斯加岛北部和进入莫桑比克海峡的M₂ (S₂)分潮的潮能通量分别为156.86GW (40.53GW)和148.07GW (36.05GW), S₂分潮潮能通量的量级大约为M₂分潮的1/5~1/4。底摩擦耗散主要发生莫桑比克海峡和马达加斯加岛南北部, 其中莫桑比克海峡M₂ (S₂)分潮的底摩擦耗散为1.762GW (0.460GW), 占其底部总耗散的43.74% (39.72%)。     

Numerical investigation of tsunami-like wave hydrodynamic characteristics and its comparison with solitary wave

Solitary waves have been commonly used as an initial condition in the experimental and numerical modelling of tsunamis for decades. However, the main component of a tsunami waves acts at completely different spatial and temporal scales than solitary waves. Thus, use of solitary waves as approximation of a tsunami wave may not yield realistic model results, especially in the coastal region where the shoaling effect restrains the development of the tsunami wave. Alternatively, N-shaped waves may be used to give a more realistic approximation of the tsunami wave profile. Based on the superposition of the sech²(*) waves, the observed tsunami wave profile could be approximated with the N-shaped wave method, and this paper presents numerical simulation results based on the tsunami-like wave generated based on the observed tsunami wave profile measured in the Tohoku tsunami. This tsunami-like wave was numerically generated with an internal wave source method based on the two-phase incompressible flow model with a Volume of Fluid (VOF) method to capture the free surface, and a finite volume scheme was used to solve all the governing equations. The model is first validated for the case of a solitary wave propagating within a straight channel, by comparing its analytical solutions to model results. Further, model comparisons between the solitary and tsunami-like wave are then made for (a) the simulation of wave run-up on shore and (b) wave transport over breakwater. Comparisons show that use of these largely different waveform shapes as inputs produces significant differences in overall wave evolution, hydrodynamic load characteristics as well as velocity and vortex fields. Further, it was found that the solitary wave uses underestimated the total energy and hence underestimated the run-up distance.     

近岸区不规则波成长模型的研究 Ⅰ.模型的建立

以不规则波在缓变地形和缓变流场水域的折射-绕射理论以及风浪的成长、衰减理论为基础,得到近岸区不规则波成长模型。结合近岸波浪特性和海洋工程应用的实际情况,建立综合考虑海岸、折射、白浪、底摩擦、流、风和非线性作用诸因素的近岸不规则波数值计算模型。该模型具有二维波谱特性及实用性。文章力图使模式更合理地反映近岸波浪的传播、成长和衰减规律,而整个计算工作量则较小,可在微型电子计算机上得以实现。     

半封闭海区潮波运动问题的构建

利用海底粘滞性条件,首先导出了海底摩擦与海面坡度之间的简单关系式,在此基础上导出了水平流通量与海面坡度的关系式。然后利用连续性方程进一步得到了海面升高即潮位所满足的二阶椭圆型方程,进而导出了以潮位形式给出的半封闭海区岸壁不可穿透条件。最终在给定半封闭海区开边界水位分布的条件下构建了完整的关于潮位分布函数的微分方程边值问题。初步讨论表明,海底摩擦矢量与水平流通量矢量并不在相反的方向上。     

1994年发生在台湾海峡的一次地震海啸的数值模拟

建立了一个地震海啸数值模式,模式包含越洋海啸传播部分和近岸海啸变形部分,在越洋海啸传播部分中采用线性浅水方程,使用蛙跃格式求解,并且选择合适的空间步长与时间步长,使差分格式中产生的数值频散与包辛尼斯克方程中的物理频散一致,这样在不影响海啸数值计算精度的前提下,节省了计算机的机时与内存.在近岸海啸变形部分的计算中,考虑了非线性对流项与海底摩擦项.同时该模式采用了多重网格嵌套技术,提高了所关心地区的计算精度.利用这个地震海啸模式模拟了1994年发生在台湾海峡的一次地震海啸,结果与观测记录较吻合.这个模型已用于我国沿海核电站可能最大地震海啸的数值计算.     

近岸浅水波的计算

采用理论推导与实验资料验证相结合的方法对近岸浅水波衰减计算进行研究。研究表明，波浪与浅水区运动传播衰减是各种能耗共同作用的结果，为此总结了分子粘性能耗、湍流能耗、底部渗透能耗、底部摩擦能耗、软泥海底弹性能耗等，由建立波能流平衡方程出发进行理论推导，得出各种能耗影响下波浪衰减的计算公式，并将该理论公式与作者１９８０年波浪水槽试验资料比较，两者基本吻合，可适用于线性及非线性各种波能耗情况的计算。     

Numerical study of tidal dynamics in the South China Sea with adjoint method

We adopt a parameterized internal tide dissipation term to the two-dimensional (2-D) shallow water equations, and develop the corresponding adjoint model to investigate tidal dynamics in the South China Sea (SCS). The harmonic constants derived from 63 tidal gauge stations and 24 TOPEX/Poseidon (T/P) satellite altimeter crossover points are assimilated into the adjoint model to minimize the deviations of the simulated results and observations by optimizing the bottom friction coefficient and the internal tide dissipation coefficient. Tidal constituents M₂, S₂, K₁ and O₁ are simulated simultaneously. The numerical results (assimilating only tidal gauge data) agree well with T/P data showing that the model results are reliable. The co-tidal charts of M₂, S₂, K₁ and O₁ are obtained, which reflect the characteristics of tides in the SCS. The tidal energy flux is analyzed based on numerical results. The strongest tidal energy flux appears in the Luzon Strait (LS) for both semi-diurnal and diurnal tidal constituents. The analysis of tidal energy dissipation indicates that the bottom friction dissipation occurs mainly in shallow water area, meanwhile the internal tide dissipation is mainly concentrated in the LS and the deep basin of the SCS. The tidal energetics in the LS is examined showing that the tidal energy input closely balances the tidal energy dissipation.     

Effect of the Bottom Topography on Tsunami Propagation in the East （Japan） Sea

A study of tsunami events in the East （Japan） Sea using continuous Galerkin finite element model, aiming at reproducing tsunami waves generated by underwater earthquakes in 1983 and 1993 respectively has been performed focusing on the geographic extent of a topographic feature in the East （Japan） Sea. Numerical models can be the proper tools to study the combined effects of realistic topography. Subsequently, using the FEM based two-dimensional model we have simulated the smoothed and flattened topographic effects by removal of Yamato Rise and seamounts for the cases of tthe 1983 Central region earthquake tsunami and the 1993 southwestern Hokkaido earthquake tsunami. The results have shown that there will be higher tsunamis along the eastern coasts of Korea in general except some areas, like Sokcho with removal of topographic highs, thus providing complicated bottom topography of the East （Japan） Sea as effective tsunami energy scattering.     

Registration of tsunamis in the open ocean

Abstract

The small tsunami of February 23, 1980, which originated near the southern part of the Kuril Islands was recorded by the bottom vibrotron sensor installed on the shelf near Shikotan Island and connected to the island observatory by underwater cable. The marigram of the tsunami is given and compared with marigrams obtained at shore tide gauges. Some spectral features of the records are discussed.     

Turbulence and energy dissipations of surf-zone spilling breakers

A laboratory study on the turbulence and wave energy dissipations of spilling breakers in a surf zone is presented. Instantaneous velocity fields of propagating breaking waves on a 1/20 slope were measured using Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV). Due to the large region of the evolving wave breaking generated turbulent flow, seven PIV fields of view (FOVs) were mosaicked to form a continuous flow field in the surf zone. Mean and turbulence quantities were extracted by ensemble averaging 25 repeated instantaneous measurements at each FOV. New results for distribution and evolution of turbulent kinetic energy, mean flow energy, and total energy across the surf zone were obtained from analyzing the data. The turbulence dissipation rate was estimated based on several different approaches. It was found that the vertical distribution of the turbulence dissipation rate decays exponentially from the crest level to the bottom. The resulting energy budget and energy flux were also calculated. The calculated total energy dissipation rate was compared to that based on a bore approximation. It was found that the ratio of turbulence dissipation rate to total energy dissipation rate was about 0.01 in the outer surf zone and increased to about 0.1 after the breaking waves transformed into developed turbulent bores in the inner surf zone.     

Scenarios of local tsunamis in the China Seas by Boussinesq model

The Okinawa Trench in the East China Sea and the Manila Trench in the South China Sea are considered to be the regions with high risk of potential tsunamis induced by submarine earthquakes. Tsunami waves will impact the southeast coast of China if tsunamis occur in these areas. In this paper, the horizontal two-dimensional Boussinesq model is used to simulate tsunami generation, propagation, and runnp in a domain with complex geometrical boundaries. The temporary varying bottom boundary condition is adopted to describe the initial tsunami waves motivated by the submarine faults. The Indian Ocean tsunami is simulated by the numerical model as a validation case. The time series of water elevation and runup on the beach are compared with the measured data from field survey. The agreements indicate that the Boussinesq model can be used to simulate tsunamis and predict the waveform and runup. Then, the hypothetical tsunamis in the Okinawa Trench and the Manila Trench are simulated by the numerical model. The arrival time and maximum wave height near coastal cities are predicted by the model. It turns out that the leading depression N-wave occurs when the tsunami propagates in the continental shelf from the Okinawa Trench. The scenarios of the tsunami in the Manila Trench demonstrate significant effects on the coastal area around the South China Sea.     

Propagation Mechanisms of Incident Tsunami Wave in Jiangsu Coastal Area,Caused by Eastern Japan Earthquake on March 11,2011

At 13:46 on March 11, 2011(Beijing time), an earthquake of Mw=9.0 occurred in Japan. By comparing the tsunami data from Guanhekou marine station with other tsunami wave observation gathered from southeast coastal area of China, it was evident that, only in Guanhekou, the position of the maximum wave height appeared in the middle part rather than in the front of the tsunami wave train. A numerical model of tsunami propagation based on 2-D nonlinear shallow water equations was built to study the impact range and main causes of the special tsunami waveform discovered in Jiangsu coastal area. The results showed that nearly three-quarters of the Jiangsu coastal area, mainly comprised the part north of the radial sand ridges, reached its maximum tsunami wave height in the middle part of the wave train. The main cause of the special waveform was the special underwater topography condition of the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea area, which influenced the tsunami propagation and waveform significantly. Although land boundary reflection brought an effect on the position of the maximum wave height to a certain extent, as the limits of the incident waveform and distances between the observation points and shore, it was not the dominant influence factor of the special waveform. Coriolis force's impact on the tsunami waves was so weak that it was not the main cause for the special phenomenon in Jiangsu coastal area. The study reminds us that the most destructive wave might not appear in the first one in tsunami wave train.