风浪方向分布模式的比较

本文对目前常用的几种风浪方向分布模式进行了分析对比，进而根据由浪高仪阵列和ＥＮＤＥＣＯ９５６测波浮标在我国各海区测得的风浪方向谱，从波能方向分布、方向累积分布、方向分布的峰值和标准差四个方面，与光易恒、Ｈａｓｓｅｌｍａｎｎ和Ｄｏｎｅｌａｎ等分别由观测得到的经验方向分布以及文圣常等由解析方法得到的风浪方向谱进行了比较，结果表明：Ｄｏｎｅｌａｎ分布与实测结果比较一致，文圣常谱也较接近。此外，笔者在渤海由仪器阵列实测方向谱拟合得到的方向分布（改进的光易模式）与各地实测资料也比较符合。     

海浪方向谱的现场观测与分析

方向谱是海浪的基本性质之一。本文在国内首次采用测波仪阵列法在渤海采油平台上成功地观测到海浪方向谱，给出了当地随波浪成长而变化的方向谱表达式。观测前采用数模和模型试验方法，对阵列的布置型式、测波仪间距和平台等对观测结果的影响，以及现有各种方向谱分析方法的精度等进行了对比分析，为提高观测精度，保证方向谱分析的质量提供了依据。     

方向分布对三维聚焦波浪波面特性影响研究

波浪聚焦被认为是产生极限波浪的重要机理之一,近年来受到普遍重视。通过高阶谱方法,引入造波边界建立数值计算模型,模拟聚焦波浪在不同方向分布时的产生和聚焦过程,研究波浪的方向分布对聚焦波浪的波面、波峰最大值、聚焦点的偏移、波面参数及频谱的影响。研究结果表明波浪方向分布越窄,波浪的非线性影响越强、波面越陡,波峰值、聚焦点的偏移和波面特征参数都越大;同时方向分布对波浪聚焦前后的能量具有很大的影响。     

Observations and Estimations of Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves

The directional spectrum is one of the basic characteristics of sea waves. The observations of directional spectrum of sea waves were successfully conducted at platform Bohai 8 during 1991 and 1992 using a wave gage array for the first time in China. Based on the field data, the directional spectrum which depends on the wave growth is given in this paper. Before observations, the effects of the type of gage array, the distance between the gages and the platform itself on the measured results and the precision of some methods for estimating the directional spectrum were investigated and compared with the methods of numerical simulations and model tests of multi-direcitonal irregular waves. This ensures the quality of the observations and estimations of the directional spectrum.     

Estimation Approaches of ηUV,PUV and UV Directional Wave Spectra and Their Comparison

The observation and estimation of directional spectra of sea waves is one of the essential subjects of study of oceanic dynamics. On the basis of the irregular linear wave theory, estimation methods for i/UV, PUV and VV directional wave spectra are derived. By using ij and PUV data measured in-situ, directional wave spectra are estimated, meanwhile the virtues and defects of various spectra are comparied. This method provide a basis for the observations of sea waves.     

Laboratory wave reflection analysis using co-located gages

Most coastal and ocean engineering laboratories employ techniques that use two or three spatially separated wave gages to estimate reflection of irregular waves in two-dimensional wave flumes. This paper presents a frequency domain method for separating incident and reflected wave spectra from co-located gages (gages located on the same vertical line). The technique is based on linear wave theory, and it can be applied to time series of sea surface elevation and horizontal water velocity collected in a vertical array, or it can be used with horizontal and vertical water velocity time series collected at the same point in the water column. Application of the method is limited to those frequencies showing good coherence between time series signals. Outside the range of good coherence, gross inaccuracies occur.The utility of the co-located gage method is illustrated using water velocity data collected in a wave flume with a laser Doppler velocimeter, and the method is validated for the case of complete reflection by a vertical wall. Side-by-side comparison to the spatially-separated wave gage method of Goda and Suzuki (1976) exhibited close agreement for a variety of irregular wave trains being weakly reflected by a mild sloping beach. The co-located gage method is useful in situations where there are spatial variations in the wavelength, such as on a mildly sloping bottom, or in the region close to highly reflective structures where errors arising from spatial variations in characteristic wave parameters would corrupt estimates made using the spatially-separated wave gage method.     

波浪反射系数谱的特征分析

应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.     

Wave Reflection Coefficient Spectrum

1 .IntroductionWavereflectionfromstructuresisanimportantfactorforthedesignofthestructures .Therehavebeenmanyresearchesonwavereflectionwithregularwavesandmonochromaticirregularwaves .Miche( 1 951 )proposedanon dimensionalMichenumberMfornormallyincidentirregularwavesconsideringwavebreakingbecauseofthedeepeningofwavesteepnessontheslopeofbreakwaters .ThereflectioncoefficientisproportionaltoM ,i.e .,Kr ∝M =4g( 2π) 5/ 2tan5/ 2 α(Hsf2p) ( 1 )wheregisthegravitationalacceleration ,Hsthesignifican…     

Application of the four models of directional spectra in the Bohai Sea

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Physical Investigation of Directional Wave Focusing and Breaking Waves in Wave Basin

An experimental scheme for the generation of directional focusing waves in a wave basin is established in this paper. The effects of the directional range, frequency width and center frequency on the wave focusing are studied. The distrihution of maximum amplitude and the evolution of time series and spectra during wave packet propagation and the variation of water surface parameters are extensively investigated. The results reveal that the characteristics of focusing waves are significantly influenced hy wave directionality and that that breaking criteria for directional waves are distinctly different from those for unidirectional waves.     

Numerical Study of Wave Diffraction Effect Introduced in the SWAN Model

New version of SWAN model includes the wave diffraction effect which is the main improvement compared with the previous versions.Experimental data collected in the wave basin of the University of Delaware were used to test its performance.Wave heights were compared in the four cases(with different wave energies and directional spreading spectra).The results agreed well with the measurements,especially for the broad directional spectra cases.The effect of wave diffraction was analyzed by switching on/off the corresponding term.By introducing the diffraction term,the distributions of wave height and wave direction were smoothed,especially obvious for the narrow spectrum cases.Compared with the calculations without diffraction,the model with diffraction effect gave better results.     

Maximum entropy estimation of directional wave spectra from an array of wave probes

A procedure for estimating directional wave spectra from an array of wave probes based on the Maximum Entropy Method (MEM) is developed in the present paper. The MEM approach yields an angular spreading function at each frequency band consistent with the input cross-spectral density matrix. The method is evaluated using numerical simulations of directional sea states. The MEM is also used to analyze data obtained from the three-dimensional wave basin of the Hydraulics Laboratory, National Research Council of Canada. Finally, the MEM is compared with the Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM) and is shown to be a powerful tool for directional wave analysis.     

Analysis of Wave Directional Spreading by Bayesian Parameter Estimation

A spatial array of wave gauges installed on an observatoion platform has been designed and arranged to measure the lo-cal features of winter monsoon directional waves off Taishi coast of Taiwan. A new method, named the Bayesian Parameter Estimation Method(BPEM) , is developed and adopted to determine the main direction and the directional spreading parame-ter of directional spectra. The BPEM could be considered as a regression analysis to find the maximum joint probability of parameters, which best approximates the observed data from the Bayesian viewpoint. The result of the analysis of field wave data demonstrates the highly dependency of the characteristics of normalized directional spreading on the wave age. The Mit-suyasu type empirical formula of directional spectrum is therefore modified to be representative of monsoon wave field. More-over, it is suggested that Smax could be expressed as a function of wave steepness. The values of Smax decrease with increas-ing steepness. Finally, a local directi     

碟形浮标观测方向波谱误差分析及修正

改进了方向波谱的分析方法及噪声谱经验公式，使本法随测波环境及仪器特性自动修正经验参值，更易于实际应用。基于Maximum heave/pitch quad-spectrum method，由时域及频率域上的浮标动力反应数值计算，推求反应增益因子及相位延迟项，并进一步将其导入方向波谱计算，使其能修正资料浮标对波浪之轴不对称动态反应所造成的相位延迟不一致及主波向误差。经数值仿真验证，该方法的确能消减因资料浮标对波浪之轴不对称动态反应所造成的相位延迟及对主波向估算所造成之影响。应用花莲现场观测资料验证改良之主波向估算方法，得出是否考虑波浪运动与浮标运动间之振幅响应因子及相位延迟因子，所得之主波向的差异介于0－12℃之间。     

A speckle noise suppression method based on surface waves investigation and monitoring data

The internal energy distribution of waves can be described using ocean-wave spectra. In many ways, obtaining wave spectra on a global scale is critical. Surface waves investigation and monitoring onboard the Chinese-French oceanography satellite is the first space-borne instrument for detecting wave spectra specially, which was launched on October 29, 2018. It can avoid the shortage of synthetic aperture radar detection results while still having some problems, especially with the effects of spe...     

Estimating Directional Distribution for Co-Existent Field of Incident and Reflected Waves

In the nearshore,the wave field contains reflected and incident waves in which there iscorrelation between their phases due to the effect of reflection by some obstacles.Based on the extendedeigenvector method(EEV)derived by Guan et al.,a modified method(MEEV)is proposed as a generaland practical approach to estimating directional spectra for the co-existent field of incident and reflectedwaves and a formula is given for direct calculation of the reflection coefficient.The results of numericalsimulations show that MEEV is superior to EEV in resolution power,and the computed reflectioncoefficient agrees well with the real value within a certain range of incident angle.     

Multidirectional wave transformation around detached breakwaters

The performance of the new wave diffraction feature of the shallow-water spectral model SWAN, particularly its ability to predict the multidirectional wave transformation around shore-parallel emerged breakwaters is examined using laboratory and field data. Comparison between model predictions and field measurements of directional spectra was used to identify the importance of various wave transformation processes in the evolution of the directional wave field. First, the model was evaluated against laboratory measurements of diffracted multidirectional waves around a breakwater shoulder. Excellent agreement between the model predictions and measurements was found for broad frequency and directional spectra. The performance of the model worsened with decreasing frequency and directional spread. Next, the performance of the model with regard to diffraction–refraction was assessed for directional wave spectra around detached breakwaters. Seven different field cases were considered: three wind–sea spectra with broad frequency and directional distributions, each coming from a different direction; two swell–sea bimodal spectra; and two swell spectra with narrow frequency and directional distributions. The new diffraction functionality in SWAN improved the prediction of wave heights around shore-parallel breakwaters. Processes such as beach reflection and wave transmission through breakwaters seem to have a significant role on transformation of swell waves behind the breakwaters. Bottom friction and wave–current interactions were less important, while the difference in frequency and directional distribution might be associated with seiching.     

Long Wave Reflection and Transmission over A Sloping Step

This investigation examines long wave reflection and transmission induced by a sloping step. Bellman and Kalaba‘s (1959) invariant imbeddlng is introduced to find wave reflection. An alternative method matching both the surface elevation and its surface slope of each region at the junction is applied to the determination of wave reflection and transmission.The proposed methods are compared with the accurate numerical results of Porter and Porter (2000) and those of Mei (1983) for a vertical step. The wave reflection obtained for a mildly sloping step differs significantly from the result of Mei. The wave reflection is found to fluctuate owing to wave trapping for the ntild sloping step. The height and the face slope of the step are important for determining wave reflection and transmission coefficients.     

海浪同化预报模型理论基础

将共轭变分同化方法应用于 LAGFD- WAM海浪数值模式 ,导出了海浪谱能量平衡方程的共轭方程以及风输入、破碎、底摩擦、波波非线性相互作用和波流相互作用的相应共轭源函数 ,建立了海浪同化模型 ,数值计算仍采用特征线嵌入计算格式 ,为合成孔径雷达波谱反演资料和卫星高度计有效波高资料同化奠定理论基础     

水下压力阵列的测波方法

本文介绍了ＨＤＬ—２１７６底压式测波仪的基本特性，给出了水下压力阵列进行波浪方向谱估计的数据计算方法。