VHF radar observations of surface currents off the northern Opal coast in the eastern English Channel

Two very high-frequency radars (VHFR) operating on the Opal coast of eastern English Channel provided a nearly continuous 35-day long dataset of surface currents over a 500 km² area at 0.6–1.8 km resolution. Argo drifter tracking and CTD soundings complemented the VHFR observations, which extended approximately 25 km offshore. The radar data resolve three basic modes of the surface velocity variation in the area, that are driven by tides, winds and freshwater fluxes associated with seasonal river discharge. The first mode, accounting for 90% of variability, is characterized by an along-shore flow pattern, whereas the second and third modes exhibit cross-shore, and eddy-like structures in the current velocity field. All the three modes show the dominant semi-diurnal variability and low-frequency modulation by the neap-spring tidal cycle. Although tidal forcing provides the major contribution to variability of local currents, baroclinicity plays an important role in shaping the 3D velocity field averaged over the tidal cycle and may strongly affect tracer dynamics on larger time scales. An empirical orthogonal function (EOF) decomposition and a spectral rotary analysis of the VHFR data reveal a discontinuity in the velocity field occurring approximately 10 km offshore which was caused by the reversal in the sign of rotation of the current vector. This feature of local circulation is responsible for surface current convergence on ebb, divergence on flood and strong oscillatory vertical motion. Spectral analysis of the observed currents and the results of the Agro drifter tracking indicate that the line of convergence approximately follows the 30-m isobath. The most pronounced feature of the radar-derived residual circulation is the along-coast intensification of surface currents with velocity magnitude of 0.25 m/s typical for the Regions of Freshwater Influence (ROFI). The analysis has provided a useful, exploratory examination of surface currents, suggesting that the circulation off the Opal coast is governed by ROFI dynamics on the hypertidal background.     

Assessing the fidelity of surface currents from a coastal ocean model and HF radar using drifting buoys in the Middle Atlantic Bight

The rapid expansion of urbanization along the world’s coastal areas requires a more comprehensive and accurate understanding of the coastal ocean. Over the past several decades, numerical ocean circulation models have tried to provide such insight, based on our developing understanding of physical ocean processes. The systematic establishment of coastal ocean observation systems adopting cutting-edge technology, such as high frequency (HF) radar, satellite sensing, and gliders, has put such ocean model predictions to the test, by providing comprehensive observational datasets for the validation of numerical model forecasts. The New York Harbor Observing and Prediction System (NYHOPS) is a comprehensive system for understanding coastal ocean processes on the continental shelf waters of New York and New Jersey. To increase confidence in the system’s ocean circulation predictions in that area, a detailed validation exercise was carried out using HF radar and Lagrangian drifter-derived surface currents from three drifters obtained between March and October 2010. During that period, the root mean square (RMS) differences of both the east–west and north–south currents between NYHOPS and HF radar were approximately 15 cm s^?1. Harmonic analysis of NYHOPS and HF radar surface currents shows similar tidal ellipse parameters for the dominant M₂ tide, with a mean difference of 2.4 cm s^?1 in the semi-major axis and 1.4 cm s^?1 in the semi-minor axis and 3° in orientation and 10° in phase. Surface currents derived independently from drifters along their trajectories showed that NYHOPS and HF radar yielded similarly accurate results. RMS errors when compared to currents derived along the trajectory of the three drifters were approximately 10 cm s^?1. Overall, the analysis suggests that NYHOPS and HF radar had similar skill in estimating the currents over the continental shelf waters of the Middle Atlantic Bight during this time period. An ensemble-based set of particle tracking simulations using one drifter which was tracked for 11 days showed that the ensemble mean separation generally increases with time in a linear fashion. The separation distance is not dominated by high frequency or short spatial scale wavelengths suggesting that both the NYHOPS and HF radar currents are representing tidal and inertial time scales correctly and resolving some of the smaller scale eddies. The growing ensemble mean separation distance is dominated by errors in the mean flow causing the drifters to slowly diverge from their observed positions. The separation distance for both HF radar and NYHOPS stays below 30 km after 5 days, and the two technologies have similar tracking skill at the 95 % level. For comparison, the ensemble mean distance of a drifter from its initial release location (persistence assumption) is estimated to be greater than 70 km in 5 days.     

Evaluation of two algorithms for a network of coastal HF radars in the Mid-Atlantic Bight

The National High Frequency (HF) Surface Current Mapping Radar Network is being developed as a backbone system within the U.S. Integrated Ocean Observing System. This paper focuses on the application of HF radar-derived surface current maps to U.S. Coast Guard Search and Rescue operations along the Mid-Atlantic coast of the USA. In that context, we evaluated two algorithms used to combine maps of radial currents into a single map of total vector currents. In situ data provided by seven drifter deployments and four bottom-mounted current meters were used to (1) evaluate the well-established unweighted least squares (UWLS) and the more recently adapted optimal interpolation (OI) algorithms and (2) quantify the sensitivity of the OI algorithm to varying decorrelation scales and error thresholds. Results with both algorithms were shown to depend on the location within the HF radar data footprint. The comparisons near the center of the HF radar coverage showed no significant difference between the two algorithms. The most significant distinction between the two was seen in the drifter trajectories. With these simulations, the weighting of radial velocities by distance in the OI implementation was very effective at reducing both the distance between the actual drifter and the cluster of simulated particles as well as the scale of the search area that encompasses them. In this study, the OI further reduced the already improved UWLS-based search areas by an additional factor of 2. The results also indicated that the OI output was relatively insensitive to the varying decorrelation scales and error thresholds tested.     

Tidal and low-frequency currents off the Jaguaribe River estuary (4° S, 37° 4′ W), northeastern Brazil

This article characterizes the spatial and temporal current variations, in the subtidal and tidal ranges, during the rainy and dry seasons, at the continental shelf off the Jaguaribe River, through measurements of continuous current field data from an acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) mooring during 124 days, from June 12 to October 14, 2009. To support this dataset, we collected corresponding data from a meteorological station located at the estuary. The spatial variation showed that highest current speeds occur near the coast, with an offset of a NNW coastal jet, decreasing intensity, monotonically, towards offshore up to 0.1 ms^?1. In the rainy season, small inversions of the wind field were observed, lasting 2 to 3 days on average and were accompanied by the direction of surface currents only. In the dry season, the period of reversal of wind fields and currents lasted 14 and 35 h, respectively. The analysis of empirical orthogonal functions in rainy and dry seasons showed that the continental shelf is predominantly barotropic, where the second and third modes explained only 7% of the total variance, during the dry season. The tidal currents are more intense in the direction normal to the coast, showing a semidiurnal tidal regime. Energy distribution between tidal currents and currents of longer periods showed that for the component parallel to bathymetry, subtidal frequency currents are dominant, contributing to more than 70% of the variance. For the normal component to the coastline bathymetry, there is a significant increase of power concerning tidal currents, at all depths, so they contribute with about 55% of the total variance.     

The impacts of the large-scale hydraulic structures on tidal dynamics in open-type bay: numerical study in Jakarta Bay

The construction of a Giant Sea Wall (GSW) complex in Jakarta Bay has been proposed to protect Jakarta against flood in the Master Plan for National Capital Integrated Coastal Development (NCICD). However, these large-scale hydraulic structures could significantly change the tidal dynamics in Jakarta Bay. This research investigates the potential impacts of a GSW on the tidal dynamics, including tides, currents, and residual currents in Jakarta Bay using a validated numerical model (Finite Volume Coastal Ocean Model (FVCOM)). Results show that the bay is diurnal with a maximum tidal range of ~0.9 m. The flow is mainly in an east-west direction with a maximum depth-mean current speed of up to 0.3 ms^?1. The construction of a GSW would modulate the tidal dynamics by changing the bathymetry, tidal prism, wind effect, and tidal choking effect in the bay. The maximum tidal range would be slightly increased due to the reduced tidal prism of the bay and the increased tidal choking effect. The current would penetrate into the west reservoir through the gates and channels between the artificial islands, with peak speed jets appearing at the gates (~0.3 ms^?1), due to tidal choking. A similar peak current speed appears near the right wing of the GSW due to the pressure gradient would be created by the wing of the GSW. Closing the gates would mainly affect the currents inside the west reservoir. The residual current would be slightly increased after the construction of the GSW. An eddy would be formed at the bottom level near the right wing of the GSW. The direction of the residual current is landward instead of seaward at the surface level outside the GSW. The impact of wind on surface currents would be much reduced due to the decreased water surface area. Although this study is site specific, the findings may have a wider applicability to the impacts of large-scale hydraulic structures on tidal dynamics in open-type bays.     

Sediment mobility in response to tidal and wind-driven flows along the Belgian inner shelf,southern North Sea

The effect of hydro-meteorological forcings (tidal and wind-induced flows) on the transport of suspended particulate matter (SPM), on the formation of high-concentrated mud suspensions and on the occurrence of sand–mud suspensions has been studied using long-term multi-parametric observations. Data have been collected in a coastal turbidity maximum area (southern North Sea) where a mixture of sandy and muddy sediments prevails. Data have been classified according to variations in subtidal alongshore currents, with the direction of subtidal flow depending on wind direction. This influences the position of the turbidity maximum; as such also the origin of SPM. Winds blowing from the NE will increase SPM concentration, whilst SW winds will induce a decrease. The latter is related to advection of less turbid English Channel water, inducing a shift of the turbidity maximum towards the NE and the Westerschelde estuary. Under these conditions, marine mud will be imported and buffered in the estuary. Under persistent NE winds, high-concentrated mud suspensions are formed and remain present during several tidal cycles. Data show that SPM consists of a mixture of flocs and locally eroded sand grains during high currents. This has implications towards used instrumentation: SPM concentration estimates from optical backscatter sensors will only be reliable when SPM consists of cohesive sediments only; with mixtures of cohesive and non-cohesive sediments, a combination of both optical and acoustic sensors are needed to get an accurate estimate of the total SPM concentration.     

Coastal exposure to oil spill impacts from the Finisterre Traffic Separation Scheme

This study analyzes the coastal exposure to potential oil spills coming from the various corridors that constitute the Finisterre Traffic Separation Scheme (NW Iberia). A Lagrangian model was executed with results from a realistic configuration of an ocean model during 2012, validated here against High-Frequency (HF) radar-derived surface currents. Virtual particles were released each hour and followed during the next 4 days. A series of maps summarize which regions would be impacted and when. We have learnt, for example, that Cape Finisterre is the most affected area under a wide range of scenarios and that a sensitive area such as the National Park of the Atlantic Islands would require protective actions in less than 24 h if oil spills from the south eventually occurred. A complete analysis by corridor and during specific wind events is available through a web tool, which could be useful for decision makers in case of contingency.     

Tides and mixing in the northwestern East China Sea Part I: Rotating and reversing tidal flows

Bottom-mounted ADV and ADCP instruments in combination with CTD profiling measurements taken along the Chinese coast of the East China Sea were used to study the vertical structure of temperature, salinity, and velocity in reversing tidal currents on a shallow inner shelf and in rotating tidal flows over a deeper sloping bottom of the outer shelf. These two regimes of barotropic tide affect small-scale dynamics in the lower part of the water column differently. The reversing flow was superimposed by seiches of ∼2.3 h period generated in semienclosed Jiaozhou Bay located nearby. As the tidal vector rotates over the sloping bottom, the height of the near-bottom logarithmic layer is subjected to tidal-induced variations. A maximum of horizontal velocity U_max appears at the upper boundary of the log layer during the first half of the current vector rotation from the minor to the major axis of tidal ellipse. In rotating tidal flow, vertical shear generated at the seafloor, propagated slowly to the water interior up to the height of U_max, with a phase speed of ∼5 m/h. The time-shifted shear inside the water column, relative to the shear at the bottom, was associated with periodically changing increases and decreases of the tidal velocity above the log layer toward the sea surface. In reversing flows, the shear generated near the bottom and the shear at the upper levels were almost in phase.     

Application of HF radar currents to oil spill modelling

In this work, the benefits of high-frequency (HF) radar currents for oil spill modeling and trajectory analysis of floating objects are analyzed. The HF radar performance is evaluated by means of comparison between a drifter buoy trajectory and the one simulated using a Lagrangian trajectory model. A methodology to optimize the transport model performance and to calculate the search area of the predicted positions is proposed. This method is applied to data collected during the Galicia HF Radar Experience. This experiment was carried out to explore the capabilities of this technology for operational monitoring along the Spanish coast. Two long-range HF radar stations were installed and operated between November 2005 and February 2006 on the Galician coast. In addition, a drifter buoy was released inside the coverage area of the radar. The HF radar currents, as well as numerical wind data were used to simulate the buoy trajectory using the TESEO oil spill transport model. In order to evaluate the contribution of HF radar currents to trajectory analysis, two simulation alternatives were carried out. In the first one, wind data were used to simulate the motion of the buoy. In the second alternative, surface currents from the HF radar were also taken into account. For each alternative, the model was calibrated by means of the global optimization algorithm SCEM-UA (Shuffled Complex Evolution Metropolis) in order to obtain the probability density function of the model parameters. The buoy trajectory was computed for 24 h intervals using a Monte Carlo approach based on the results provided in the calibration process. A bivariate kernel estimator was applied to determine the 95% confidence areas. The analysis performed showed that simulated trajectories integrating HF radar currents are more accurate than those obtained considering only wind numerical data. After a 24 h period, the error in the final simulated position improves using HF radar currents. Averaging the information from all the simulated daily periods, the mean search and rescue area calculated using HF radar currents, is reduced by approximately a 62% in comparison with the search area calculated without these data. These results show the positive contribution of HF radar currents for trajectory analysis, and demonstrate that these data combined with atmospheric forecast models, are of value for trajectory analysis of oil spills or floating objects.     

Modeling studies of tidal dynamics and the associated responses to coastline changes in the Bohai Sea,China

Over the past 30 years, reclamation projects and related changes have impacted the hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the Bohai Sea. Three-dimensional tidal current models of the Bohai Sea and the Yellow Sea were constructed using the MIKE 3 model. We used a refined grid to simulate and analyze the effects of changes in coastline, depth, topography, reclamation, the Yellow River estuary, and coastal erosion on tidal systems, tide levels, tidal currents, residual currents, and tidal fluxes. The simulation results show that the relative change in the amplitude of the half-day tide is greater than that of the full-day tide. The changes in the tidal amplitudes of M₂, S₂, K₁, and O₁ caused by coastline changes accounted for 27.76–99.07% of the overall change in amplitude from 1987 to 2016, and water depth changes accounted for 0.93–72.24% of the overall change. The dominant factor driving coastline changes is reclamation, accounting for 99.55–99.91% of the amplitude changes in tidal waves, followed by coastal erosion, accounting for 0.05–0.40% of the tidal wave amplitude changes. The contribution of changes in the Yellow River estuary to tidal wave amplitude changes is small, accounting for 0.01–0.12% of the amplitude change factor. The change in the highest tide level (HTL) is mainly related to the amplitude change, and the correlation with the phase change is small. The dominant factor responsible for the change in the HTL is the tide amplitude change in M2, followed by S2, whereas the influence of the K1 and O1 tides on the change in the HTL is small. Reclamation resulted in a decrease in the vertical average maximum flow velocity (V_VAM) in the Bohai Sea. Shallower water depths have led to an increase in the V_VAM; deeper water depths have led to a decrease in the maximum flow velocity. The absolute value of the maximum flow velocity gradually decreases from the surface to the bottom, but the relative change value is basically constant. The changes in the tidal dynamics of the Bohai Sea are proportional to the degree of change in the coastline. The maximum and minimum changes in the tidal flux appear in Laizhou Bay (P-LZB) and Liaodong Bay (P-LDB), respectively. The changes in the tidal flux are related to the change in the area of the bay. Due to the reduced tidal flux, the water exchange capacity of the Bohai Sea has decreased, impacting the ecological environment of the Bohai Sea. Strictly controlling the scale of reclamation are important measures for reducing the decline in the water exchange capacity of the Bohai Sea and the deterioration of its ecological environment.     

A model study of tide- and wind-induced mixing in the Columbia River Estuary and plume

A numerical simulation of circulation in the Columbia River estuary and plume during the summer of 2004 is used to explore the mixing involved as river water is transformed into shelf water. The model is forced with realistic river flow, tides, wind stress, surface heat flux, and ocean boundary conditions. Simulated currents and water properties on the shelf near the mouth are compared with records from three moorings (all in 72 m of water) and five CTD sections. The model is found to have reasonable skill; statistically significant correlations between observed and modeled surface currents, temperature, and salinity are all 0.42–0.72 for the mooring records. Equations for the tidally averaged, volume-integrated mechanical energy budget (kinetic and potential) are derived, with attention to the effects of: (i) Reynolds averaging, (ii) a time varying volume due to the free surface, and (iii) dissipation very close to the bottom. It is found that convergence of tidal pressure work is the most important forcing term in the estuary. In the far field plume (which has a volume 15 times greater than that of the estuary), the net forcing is weaker than that in the estuary, and may be due to either tidal currents or wind stress depending on the time period considered. These forcings lead to irreversible mixing of the stratification (buoyancy flux) that turns river water into shelf water. This occurs in both the plume and estuary, but appears to be more efficient (17% vs. 5%), and somewhat greater (4.2 MW vs. 3.3 MW), in plume vs. estuary. This demonstrates the importance of both wind and tidal forcing to watermass transformation, and the need to consider the estuary and plume as part of a single system.     

Tidal and wind-driven surface currents in the German Bight: HFR observations versus model simulations

Tidal and wind-driven surface currents in the German Bight between shallow mudflats of the North Frisian islands and the island of Helgoland are studied using coastal high-frequency radar (HFR) observations and hindcasts from a primitive equation numerical model. The setup of the observational system is described, and estimates of expected measurement errors are given. A quantitative comparison of numerical model results and observations is performed. The dominant tidal components are extracted from the two data sources using tidal harmonic analysis and the corresponding tidal ellipses are defined. Results show that the spatial patterns of different tidal ellipse parameters are consistent in the two data sets. Model sensitivity studies with constant and variable salinity and temperature distributions are used to study density-related mechanisms of circulation. Furthermore, the role of the surface wind field in driving the German Bight circulation is investigated using the complex correlation between wind and surface current vectors. The observed change of the respective correlation patterns from the coastal to open ocean is shown to be due to a combination of density effects, the coastline and topography. The overall conclusion is that HFR observations resolve the small-scale and rapidly evolving characteristics of coastal currents well in the studied area and could present an important component for regional operational oceanography when combined with numerical modelling. Some unresolved issues associated with the complex circulation and large instability of circulation in front of the Elbe River Estuary justify further considerations of this area using dedicated surveys and modelling efforts.     

On the vertical structure of the Rhine region of freshwater influence

An idealised three-dimensional numerical model of the Rhine region of fresh water influence (ROFI) was set up to explore the effect of stratification on the vertical structure of the tidal currents. Prandle’s dynamic Ekman layer model, in the case of zero-depth-averaged, cross-shore velocities, was first used to validate the response of the numerical model in the case of barotropic tidal flow. Prandle’s model predicted rectilinear tidal currents with an ellipse veering of up to 2%. The behaviour of the Rhine ROFI in response to both a neap and a spring tide was then investigated. For the given numerical specifications, the Rhine plume region was well mixed over the vertical on spring tide and stratified on neap tide. During spring conditions, rectilinear tidal surface currents were found along the Dutch coast. In contrast, during neap conditions, significant cross-shore currents and tidal straining were observed. Prandle’s model predicted ellipse veering of 50%, and was found to be a good indicator of ellipticity magnitude as a function of bulk vertical eddy viscosity. The modelled tidal ellipses showed that surface currents rotated anti-cyclonically whereas bottom currents rotated cyclonically. This caused a semi-diurnal cross-shore velocity shearing which was 90° out of phase with the alongshore currents. This cross-shore shear subsequently acted on the horizontal density gradient in the plume, thereby causing a semi-diurnal stratification pattern, with maximum stratification around high water. The same behaviour was exhibited in simulations of a complete spring–neap tidal cycle. This showed a pattern of recurring stratification on neaps and de-stratification on springs, in accordance with observations collected from field campaigns in the 1990’s. To understand the increase in ellipticities to 30% during neaps and the precise shape of the vertical ellipse structure, stratification has to be taken into account. Here, a full three-dimensional numerical model was employed, and was found to represent the effect of de-coupling of the upper and lower layers due to a reduction of mixing at the pycnocline.     

Quarter diurnal shelf resonances and tidal bed stress in the English Channel

The mean sea level and mean bed stress due to tidal co-oscillations in the presence of quadratic friction is examined analytically and numerically. In some idealised situations under conditions of near M₄ shelf resonances it is shown that phase relationships tend to exist between the M₂ tidal currents and the M₄ tidal currents which combine to give maximum currents in the flood or ebb direction. In the presence of quadratic friction these effects result in a mean bed stress and affect mean sea level. It is shown that these idealised responses are in part relevant to the sea level differences and sand transport paths due to tides around the British Isles.     

Tidal circulation and energy dissipation in a shallow, sinuous estuary

The tidal dynamics in a pristine, mesotidal (>2 m range), marsh-dominated estuary are examined using moored and moving vessel field observations. Analysis focuses on the structure of the M ₂ tide that accounts for approximately 80% of the observed tidal energy, and indicates a transition in character from a near standing wave on the continental shelf to a more progressive wave within the estuary. A slight maximum in water level (WL) occurs in the estuary 10–20 km from the mouth. M ₂ WL amplitude decreases at 0.015 m/km landward of this point, implying head of tide approximately 75 km from the mouth. In contrast, tidal currents in the main channel 25 km inland are twice those at the estuary mouth. Analysis suggests the tidal character is consistent with a strongly convergent estuarine geometry controlling the tidal response in the estuary. First harmonic (M ₄) current amplitude follows the M ₂ WL distribution, peaking at mid-estuary, whereas M ₄ WL is greatest farther inland. The major axis current amplitude is strongly influenced by local bathymetry and topography. On most bends a momentum core shifts from the inside to outside of the bend moving seaward, similar to that seen in unidirectional river flow but with point bars shifted seaward of the bends. Dissipation rate estimates, based on changes in energy flux, are 0.18–1.65 W m⁻² or 40–175 μW kg^–1. A strong (0.1 m/s), depth-averaged residual flow is produced at the bends, which resembles flow around headlands, forming counter-rotating eddies that meet at the apex of the bends. A large sub-basin in the estuary exhibits remarkably different tidal characteristics and may be resonant at a harmonic of the M ₂ tide.     

Seasonal variations of hydrographic conditions of estuarine and oceanic waters adjoining the old Mangalore port

In order to understand the various processes responsible for siltation in the entrance channel and in the sand bar area near the old Mangalore port, variations in temperature, salinity, suspended sediment load, currents and extinction coefficient in the Netravathi-Gurpur Estuary and in the sea near the sand bar were studied in relation to tides during monsoon, post-monsoon and pre-monsoon seasons. The hydrographic characteristics in the estuary showed marked seasonal changes and were influenced by tides to a considerable extent. In the sea, seasonal variations of these parameters were less marked, and the effect of tides was not significant. Salinity and temperature values in the estuary and in the sea were maximum during the pre-monsoon season in general. The suspended sediment load values were always higher in the estuary than in the sea and they were found to be maximum in the monsoon season. Currents in the estuary were controlled by tides as well as by the river flow, particularly in the monsoon season, whereas currents in the sea mostly followed the general circulation pattern. Extinction coefficient values were higher in the monsoon season both in the estuary and in the sea due to increase in the particulate matter from inland drainage.     

Gezeitenströme im Englischen Kanal

Zusammenfassung Die Gröen, die die Gezeitenstromellipse der HalbtagsgezeitM ₂ festlegen, werden kartenmäig dargestellt und ihre geographische Verteilung behandelt: Maximaler Gezeitenstrom, Eintritt des maximalen Gezeitenstroms, Richtung des maximalen Gezeitenstroms, Achsenverhältnis der Gezeitenstromellipse. Treten Gezeitenströme in einem inhomogenen Meer auf, dann wird den periodischen Bewegungen eine Translationsbewegung überlagert, die insofern bemerkenswert ist, als der Massentransport in der Bodenschicht landwärts und in der Oberschicht seewärts stattfindet. Eine Beziehung zwischen Austausch, Stromgeschwindigkeit und Dichte wird abgeleitet, die es gestattet, Zusammenhänge zwischen dem Auftreten der Sprungschicht und der maximalen Gezeitenstromgeschwindigkeit herauszustellen.

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Tidal currents in the English Channel

Summary The values which determine the current ellipse of the principal lunar (M ₂) tide are plotted on charts and their geographical distribution is discussed, viz.: Maximum tidal currents and when they occur, directions of maximum tidal currents, ratios between the major and minor axes of the ellipses of tidal currents. In the case of tidal currents in nonhomogeneous water a translational motion is superposed on the periodical one, this translation being particularly characterized by the fact that mass transfer is directed coastward in the bottom layer and seaward in the surface and subsurface layers. A relation between exchange, current velocity, and density is found allowing the pointing out of correlations between the occurrence of discontinuity layers and maximum velocities of tidal currents.

     

The mobilization and deposition of mud deposits in a coastal plain estuary

Muddy sediments with their potential for containing contaminants are commonly deposited and remobilized by tidal currents in estuarine environments. We examined the mobilization and subsequent redeposition of mud in a coastal plain estuary located in the southeastern United States. Time-series data for salinity, suspended sediment concentrations and quality (percent organic matter and pigment concentrations) were obtained over a 13-hour tidal cycle. We found that fast-settling mud particles are found during the highest tidal current speeds. Particle quality analyses suggest that all the material is of similar origin, and that phaeopigment can be used as a tracer of particles in this system. These particles settle onto the bed when current speeds approach slack conditions. We speculate that the quantity of mud mobilized during neap tide is less than during spring tide resulting in an opportunity for the mud to partially consolidate on the bottom and be removed from resuspension. We further speculate that the muddy sediments are mainly derived from fringing marshes in this estuary.     

Simulation and detection of tsunami signatures in ocean surface currents measured by HF radar

High-frequency (HF) surface wave radars provide the unique capability to continuously monitor the coastal environment far beyond the range of conventional microwave radars. Bragg-resonant backscattering by ocean waves with half the electromagnetic radar wavelength allows ocean surface currents to be measured at distances up to 200 km. When a tsunami propagates from the deep ocean to shallow water, a specific ocean current signature is generated throughout the water column. Due to the long range of an HF radar, it is possible to detect this current signature at the shelf edge. When the shelf edge is about 100 km in front of the coastline, the radar can detect the tsunami about 45 min before it hits the coast, leaving enough time to issue an early warning. As up to now no HF radar measurements of an approaching tsunami exist, a simulation study has been done to fix parameters like the required spatial resolution or the maximum coherent integration time allowed. The simulation involves several steps, starting with the Hamburg Shelf Ocean Model (HAMSOM) which is used to estimate the tsunami-induced current velocity at 1 km spatial resolution and 1 s time step. This ocean current signal is then superimposed to modelled and measured HF radar backscatter signals using a new modulation technique. After applying conventional HF radar signal processing techniques, the surface current maps contain the rapidly changing tsunami-induced current features, which can be compared to the HAMSOM data. The specific radial tsunami current signatures can clearly be observed in these maps, if appropriate spatial and temporal resolution is used. Based on the entropy of the ocean current maps, a tsunami detection algorithm is described which can be used to issue an automated tsunami warning message.