Waves, currents, sediment flux and morphological response in a barred nearshore system

A shore-normal array of seven, bi-directional electromagnetic flowmeters and nine surface piercing, continuous resistance wave staffs were deployed across a multiple barred nearshore at Wendake Beach, Georgian Bay, Canada, and monitored for a complete storm cycle. Time-integrated estimates of total (ITVF) and net (INVF) sediment volume flux together with bed elevation changes were determined using depth-of-activity rods.

The three bars, ranging in height from 0.10 to 0.40 m accreted during the storm (0.03 m), and the troughs were scoured (0.05 m). Sediment reactivation depths reached 0.14 m and 12% of the nearshore control volume was mobilized. However, the INVF value for the storm was less than 1% of the control volume revealing a near balance in sediment volume in the bar system. Landward migration of the inner, crescentic and second, sinuous bars occurred in association with an alongshore migration of the bar form itself; the outermost, straight, shore-parallel bar remained fixed in location.

The surf zone was highly dissipative throughout the storm (ε = 3.8 × 10²–192 × 10²) and the wave spectrum was dominated by energy at the incident frequency. Spectral peaks at frequencies of the first harmonic and at one quarter that of the incident wave were associated with secondary wave generation just prior to breaking and a standing edge wave, respectively. The former spectral peak was within the 95% confidence band for the spectrum while the latter contributed not more than 10% to the total energy in the surface elevation spectrum even near the shoreline.

During the storm wave height exceeded 2 m (H_s) and periods reached 5 s (T_{p k}): orbital velocities exceeded 0.5 m s⁻¹ (u_{rm s}) and were above the threshold of motion for the medium-to-fine sands throughout the storm. Shore-parallel flows in excess of 0.4 m s⁻¹ were recorded with maxima in the troughs and minima just landward of the bar crest.

The rate and direction of sediment flux is best explained by the interaction of antecedent bed slopes with spatial gradients in the mean and asymmetry of the shore-normal velocity field. These hydrodynamic parameters represent “steady” flows superimposed on the dominantly oscillatory motion and assumed a characteristic spatial pattern from the storm peak through the decay period. Increases spatially in the magnitudes of both the mean flows and flow asymmetries cause an increasing net transport potential (erosion); decreases in these values spatially cause a decreasing net transport potential and thus deposition. These transport potentials are increased or decreased through the gravity potential induced by the local bed slope. Shore-parallel flow was important in explaining sediment flux and morphological change where orbital velocities, mean flows and flow asymmetries were at a minimum.     

Forces on a circular cylinder near a plane wall

The drag and lift force are measured on circular cylinders fitted with end plates in a wind tunnel. The gap between the cylinder and the wall, G, the thickness of the turbulent boundary layer along the wall, δ, and the Reynolds number, Re, are varied in the following ranges: 0 < G/D < 2, 0.12 < δ/D < 0.97 and 4.8 × 10⁴ Re 3 × 10⁵. The lift and drag coefficients are presented in terms of a new variable G/δ.

It is found that the lift coefficient is governed by the gap to diameter ratio G/D while the drag coefficient is dominated by the ratio of gap to thickness of the boundary layer, G/δ.     

On the measurement of directional wave spectra at the southern Brazilian coast

The detailed reconstruction of the directional spectrum of wind waves from measurements of the wave field is an essential requirement for several applications, including the numerical modeling of wave evolution. Three reconstruction techniques that provide estimates of the directional distribution function D(f,θ), given the one-dimensional frequency spectrum, are compared using data from a coastal locality at the southern Brazilian coast. The techniques are the maximum entropy method (MEM), the Fourier Expansion Method using a cos² type function (FEM_cos) and the Fourier Expansion Method using a sech type function (FEM_sech). The main patterns of the wave climate at the study site are qualitatively assessed. Three main sea states, including swell, transition between local sea and swell, and directionally bimodal wind sea, are identified. Time series from three events associated with the main sea states provide test cases for inter comparison of the three reconstruction techniques. Maximum entropy estimates of D(f,θ) provide results that are more consistent than those obtained from the two FEM techniques in all cases considered.     

Sea State and Rain: A Second Take on Dual-Frequency Altimetry

TOPEX and Jason were the first two dual-frequency altimeters in space, with both operating at K_u- and C-band. Thus, each gives two measurements of the normalized backscatter, σ⁰, (from which wind speed is calculated) and two estimates of wave height. Departures from a well-defined relationship between the K_u- and C-band σ⁰ values give an indication of rain. This study investigates differences between the two instruments using data from Jason's verification phase. Jason's K_u-band estimates of wave height are ∼1.8% less than TOPEX's, whereas its σ⁰ values are higher. When these effects have been removed the root mean square (rms) mismatch between TOPEX and Jason's K_u-band observations is close to that for TOPEX's observations at its two frequencies, and the changes in σ⁰ with varying wave height conditions are the same for the two altimeters. Rain flagging and quantitative estimates of rain rate are both based on the atmospheric attenuation derived from the σ⁰ measurements at the two frequencies. The attenuation estimates of TOPEX and Jason agree very well, and a threshold of-0.5 dB is effective at removing the majority of spurious data records from the Jason GDRs. In the high σ⁰ regime, anomalous data can be caused by processes other than rain. Consequently, for these low wind conditions, neither can reliable rain detection be based on altimetry alone, nor can a generic rain flag be expected to remove all suspect data.     

Carbon and oxygen isotope composition of foraminifera in two cores from the Bannock Basin area, eastern Mediterranean

Two cores from the Bannock Basin in the eastern Mediterranean have been analysed for δ¹⁸0 and the δ¹³C in planktonic foraminifera. One core (02-PC) was extracted from the anoxic brine, the other (08-GC) from a plateau east of the brine.

The absence of sapropelic muds in Core 08-GC from the two Holsteinian euxinic cycles, together with the presence of isotopic spikes, suggests that the plateau has risen during the last ca. 200,000 years by ca. 2.5 mm/yr.

The δ¹⁸0 amplitude of Globigerinoides ruber in eastern Mediterranean cores is only ca. 0.5%. larger than for this species in North Atlantic cores. This suggests that the surface oxygen isotopic composition of both bodies of water followed each other fairly closely during the Late Pleistocene, except during the stagnant phases.     

北部湾养殖牡蛎体内异养细菌数量及其耐药性研究

为了探究北部湾养殖区域香港牡蛎(Crassostrea hongkongensis)体内的异养细菌和弧菌数量及其耐药概况变化, 对不同养殖场牡蛎体内的异养细菌进行分离培养, 并统计其数量, 通过药敏纸片扩散等方法研究了细菌的耐药状况。结果显示: 牡蛎在高死亡率养殖环境中体内的异养细菌[(8.6±0.4)×10⁶CFU·g^-1]和弧菌[(9.5±0.4)×10⁵CFU·g^-1]数量较高, 在中死亡率环境中体内的异养细菌[(6.9±0.2)×10⁶CFU·g^-1]和弧菌[(4.5±0.6)×10⁵CFU·g^-1]数量次之, 在低死亡率养殖环境中体内的异养细菌[(3.3±0.1)×10⁶CFU·g^-1]和弧菌[(2.5±0.6)×10⁵CFU·g^-1]数量最低。耐药细菌主要为革兰氏阴性菌, 对β-内酰胺类(青霉素)、糖肽类(万古霉素)的耐药率较高, 对四环素类(四环素、多西环素)的耐药率次之, 对氨基糖苷类(链霉素、庆大霉素、妥布霉素、新霉素)、大环内酯类(红霉素)、喹诺酮类(诺氟沙星、环丙沙星、氧氟沙星、恩诺沙星)的耐药率较低。在高死亡率环境中牡蛎体内的多重耐药菌占79.7%, 其耐药谱型(48种)较广; 在中度死亡率环境中牡蛎体内的多重耐药菌占66.2%, 其耐药谱型为30种; 在低死亡率环境中牡蛎体内的多重耐药菌占58.4%, 其耐药谱型为17种。本文探究了牡蛎死亡率与其体内异养细菌数量和细菌耐药性的关系, 结果显示牡蛎在高死亡率环境中体内的耐药细菌数量多、耐药谱型较广, 低死亡率环境中牡蛎体内的耐药细菌数量较少, 异养细菌数量与牡蛎死亡率呈正相关关系, 两者相关系数为0.996。     

Reconstruction of ancient sea conditions with an example from the Swiss Molasse

Ancient sea conditions can be estimated from the grain size, spacing and steepness of preserved ripple-marks. The element of greatest uncertainty in such reconstructions is the relationship between near-bed orbital diameter of water particles and the ripple spacing. This relationship is simple for vortex ripples of high steepness but is problematical for the low-steepness forms known as post-vortex, rolling-grain or anorbital ripples.

The existence field for wave ripples is between the threshold velocity for sediment movement and the onset of sheet flow, most low-steepness forms occurring close to the bed planation threshold. A range of maximum period of formative waves can be obtained using combinations of orbital diameter and orbital velocity, assuming linear wave theory to be a reasonable approximation.

Probable wave heights, wave lengths and water depths can be investigated using the transformation of wave parameters in shallowing waters and the constraints on wave dimensions provided by the wave-breaking condition. Given reasonable estimates of wave height, crude estimates of wave power allow a comparison of ancient wave-influenced sequences with modern counterparts.

Wave ripple-marks preserved in the Upper Marine Molasse of western Switzerland have been investigated. Results, which are in agreement with regional geology, suggest deposition in a seaway of approximately 100 km width, where moderate period waves (T = 3–6 s) were generated. The depositional facies belts were adjusted to the prevailing waves, tides and fluvial outflows.     

Burial rates of organic matter along the eastern Canadian margin and stable isotope constraints on its origin and diagenetic evolution

Organic carbon (OC) and nitrogen (N) contents and δ¹³C and δ¹⁵N values in total organic matter (OM) were measured in sub-surface sediments (0–30 cm sub-bottom) from 21 cores raised from the Laurentian Channel of the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Labrador Sea, to document OM fluxes and storage along the eastern Canadian margin. Storage rates as high as 2.5 g m⁻² yr⁻¹ for OC and 0.2 g m⁻² yr⁻¹ for N are observed in the Laurentian Channel, suggesting that the shelf plays a significant role in terms of OM storage (from 1 to 2% of the primary production). Based on the isotopic composition of the essentially marine OM of the Labrador Sea (δ¹³C/V-PDB=−21.9±0.4‰; δ¹⁵N/AIR=7.6±0.6‰; n=12), there is no isotopic evidence for a significant relative input of terrestrial OM along the Laurentian Channel (δ¹³C/V-PDB=−21.9±0.4‰; δ¹⁵N/AIR=8.0±0.9‰; n=10), either due to high relative fluxes of marine OM and/or to the trapping of continental OM in the estuary and upstream. High storage rates of OM are also observed on the continental rise of the Labrador Sea (as high as 1.1 g C m⁻² yr⁻¹ and 0.09 g N m⁻² yr⁻¹). They contrast with one order of magnitude lower rates on the slope, due to low sedimentation rates (SR) and sediment winnowing by the Western Boundary Undercurrent (WBUC). Reduced early diagenetic alteration of OM is observed, particularly in the Laurentian Channel. It results in discrete (i) losses of OC and N, (ii) shifts in C/N ratios, suggesting preferential removal of N-bearing OM also highlighted by losses in total hydrolysable amino acids (HAA). In the Labrador Sea slope records, due to low SR, OM concentration changes linked to long term temporal variations may superimpose on these diagenetic trends, and some influence of the WBUC is noticeable.     

不同光强下长茎葡萄蕨藻(Caulerpa lentillifera)直立枝和匍匐枝的光生理特征及其对升温的响应

海洋绿藻长茎葡萄蕨藻(Caulerpa lentillifera, 又名海葡萄)因具有较高经济和生态价值而备受关注, 光照和温度变化均会改变长茎葡萄蕨藻生理代谢, 最终影响其经济价值和生态功能。文章比较研究不同生长光强下(40、80、120和160 µmol·photons·m^-2·s^-1)长茎葡萄蕨藻不同部位, 即直立枝和匍匐枝的生理和生化特征, 以及其对升温(+3℃、+6℃和+9℃)的响应。结果显示, 光强由40升至120µmol·photons·m^-2·s^-1时对长茎葡萄蕨藻相对生长率(RGR)的影响不显著, 但是光强升至160µmol·photons·m^-2·s^-1时可使RGR降低49%。弱光下(40µmol·photons·m^-2·s^-1)直立枝的叶绿素(Chl a)和类胡萝卜素(Car)含量为匍匐枝的1.52和1.49倍; 直立枝的Chl a和Car含量随生长光强升高而降低, 匍匐枝随光强升高而升高, 二者蛋白含量则均随光强升高而先升高后降低。弱光下直立枝的净光合放氧速率(P_n)和呼吸速率(R_d)分别为匍匐枝的2倍和70%, 但是二者的最大光化学效率(F_V/F_M)差异不显著。光强升高提高直立枝和匍匐枝的P_n和R_d, 但对二者F_V/F_M的影响不显著。同时, 弱光下直立枝的超氧化物歧化酶(SOD)活性比匍匐枝低20%, 二者过氧化氢酶(CAT)活性差异不显著; 光强升高提高直立枝和匍匐枝的SOD活性, 降低CAT活性。研究还发现, 直立枝和匍匐枝的P_n随温度升高而降低, 但前者的降低程度即光合速率随升温的变化率随光强升高而降低, 后者的则随光强升高而升高, 可见温度升高在弱光下对长茎葡萄蕨藻直立枝的负面影响更大, 在强光下则对匍匐枝的负面影响更大。     

Parametric modelling of joint probability density distributions for steepness and asymmetry in deep water waves

Traditional wave steepness s = H/L does not define steep asymmetric waves uniquely. Three additional parameters characterising single zero-downcross waves in a time series are crest front steepness, vertical asymmetry factor and horizontal asymmetry factor. Parametric models for joint probability density distributions for deep water waves are presented. The joint distributions are for crest front steepness-wave height, vertical asymmetry factor-wave height, total wave steepness-wave height and wave height-wave period. The parametric models are estimated from zero-downcross analysis of wave data obtained from measurements at sea on the Norwegian continental shelf. The results of the analysis presented here can be used in the estimation of the probabilities of occurrence of steep asymmetric waves and breaking waves in deep water. Thus the results are useful for the practical naval architect and ocean engineer who are considering unusual events in the sea, the associated accidents or responses and the probability of occurrence of such events.     

Sand suspension and transport on the Middelkerke Bank (southern North Sea) by storms and tidal currents

Estimates have been made of the suspended sand transport at two sites on the Middelkerke Bank, in the southern North Sea, from suspended sand profiles and current meter measurements over a period of approximately 40 days. Sand resuspension was mainly due to waves while transport was dominated by a few hours when large waves coincided with peak flood currents. Soulsby's relationships for the stress under combined currents and waves were found to be poor predictors for the observed near-bed concentrations; the mean stress, , predicting 45% of the variance while the maximum stress, , predicted just 15%, and overestimate the effects of the waves. When the influence of the stress due to the waves is reduced, the variance explained increases to 67%. The sand transport rate on the steep slope of the bank was 10 times that of the southern end, and was up-slope at 25° to the bank axis, in the direction of the major axis of the tidal ellipse. The transport on the steep slope was mainly in the size range 100–140 μm which did not occur in any significant proportion in samples of the sea bed at that site but was advected from deeper water to the southeast. Excluding this finer component the transport rates of coarser sand (>200 μm) at the two sites were similar over the 40-day period. The up-slope transport during storms suggests that waves play an important part in the bank maintenance and are not simply the mechanism which prevents the continual growth of the sand bank due to asymmetrical transport by the tidal currents alone. The transport rates are consistent with a time-scale of 10²–10³ years for the formation of the Middelkerke Bank.     

Nonlinear wave effect on the slow drift motion of a floating body

The slow drift motion of a floating body in a two-dimensional wave field has been investigated using a time-domain, fully nonlinear numerical model with non-reflective open boundaries. Preliminary computations were conducted for incident bichromatic waves, in which wave theories with different orders were applied in generating the waves required. The results show that the use of low-order theories generates undesirable free waves, and that fourth-order terms contribute markedly to low-frequency input. The motion of a rectangular floating body in response to nonlinear bichromatic waves was computed. The numerical results for small-amplitude incident waves agree reasonably well with the second-order approximation for both the steady and difference-frequency (Δσ) components in the body's motion. For relatively large waves, however, the 2Δσ component becomes predominant compared with the Δσ component. The motion of the body in irregular waves with different wave parameters has also been presented in order to discuss the validity range of a second-order approximation.     

珠江口异养细菌时空分布特征及其调控机制

河口是海陆相互作用的重要地带, 往往呈现出独特的生物地球化学过程, 是研究碳循环过程的重要场所。在春季(2015年5月)、夏季(2015年8月)和冬季(2016年1月)分别对珠江口海域异养附生细菌和游离细菌时空分布及其各自高核酸(HNA)、低核酸(LNA)类群的相对贡献进行了调查研究, 并对其调控因子进行了相应探讨。结果表明, 珠江口异养细菌分布具有明显的时空差异。空间分布上, 珠江口异养细菌丰度自河口上游至下游呈递减趋势, 主要与上游污水输入以及珠江径流与高盐外海水在河口内的混合有关; 在雨季, 河口中下游盐度锋面区出现异养细菌丰度和叶绿素a质量浓度的高值区, 锋面区使营养物质停留时间增加, 促进浮游生物生长。垂直方向上, 表层异养细菌丰度略高于底层。时间尺度上, 异养细菌总丰度在春季最高(表层均值为2.94±1.23×10⁹个 •L^-1, 底层为2.81±1.50×10⁹个 •L^-1), 夏季次之(表层均值为2.32±0.43×10⁹个 •L^-1, 底层为1.90±0.50×10⁹个 •L^-1), 冬季最低(表层均值为1.06±0.33×10⁹个 •L^-1, 底层为9.76± 3.44×10⁸个 •L^-1)。珠江口海域异养细菌以附生细菌为主, 占异养细菌总丰度的16.56%~96.19%, 整体分布较稳定, 冬季最高(平均78.65%)、夏季(70.32%)与春季相近(68.17%)。附生细菌以代谢活跃的HNA类群为主, 游离细菌则主要以LNA类群为主, 代谢活性整体相对较低。     

Experimental study of three-dimensional breaking wave kinematics

Particle image velocimetry has been used to examine three-dimensional breaking wave kinematics. Two cases of wave breaking were studied. In the first case, the wave field contains a single frequency with a uniform angular spreading within a given range {{ — , .}}. The wave field of the second case consists of a number of frequencies with a uniform angular spreading applied to each frequency. In both cases, the waves are designed such that the wave energy is focused at a given point. The degree of angular spreading has been found to have great effects on the breaking characteristics and kinematics. Two types of breaker were observed, the first being plunging and the second being spilling. Increasing the angular spreading had the effect of making the velocities within the extreme waves larger. The ratio of the crest velocity to the breaking wave speed was approximately unity under both single and multiple frequency conditions, regardless of the angular spreading.     

Spectral analysis of Stokes waves

The spectral properties of Stokes waves are shown in this paper by theoretical and numerical methods. This is done by expressing wave profiles and velocities of water particles as nonlinear combinations of the first order component of wave profiles. Under the assumption of the first order wave profiles being zero mean Gaussian processes, the relationship between autocorrelation functions of wave profiles and velocities of water particles and the first order component of wave profiles is established using the nonlinear spectral analysis. The spectral densities of nonlinear random waves, the velocities and accelerations of water particles are then obtained. Numerical computations are carried out to analyze the effect of fundamental parameters of waves. The results indicate that wave height is the most sensible parameter to the root mean squares related and wave depth is the least sensible one of all.     

Sediment flux and equilibrium slopes in a barred nearshore

Estimates of time-integrated values of total (ITVF) and net (INVF) sediment volume flux and the associated changes in bed elevation and local slope were determined for a crescentic outer nearshore bar in Kouchibouguac Bay, New Brunswick, Canada, for eight discrete storm events. A 100 × 150 m grid of depth-of-activity rods spaced at 10 m intervals was used to monitor sediment behaviour on the seaward slope, bar crest and landward slope during the storms, at which time winds, incident waves and near-bed oscillatory currents were measured. Comparisons between storm events and between these events and a longer-term synthetic wave climatology were facilitated using hindcast wave parameters. Strong positive correlations between storm-wave conditions (significant height and total cumulative energy) and total volume flux contrasted strongly with the zero correlation between storm-wave conditions and net volume flux. ITVF values ranged up to 1646 m³ for the experimental grid and were found to have power function relations with significant wave height (exponent 2) and cumulative wave wave energy (exponent 0.4); values of INVF ranged from 0 up to 100 m³ for the same grid indicating a balance of sediment volume in the bar form through time. Sediment reactivation increased linearly with decreasing depth across the seaward slope and bar crest reaching maxima of 20 cm for the two largest storms; bed elevation, and thus slope, changes were restricted to the bar crest and upper landward slope with near zero morphological change on the seaward slope. The latter represents a steady-state equilibrium with null net transport of sediment under shoaling waves. Measurements of the asymmetry of orbital velocities close to the bed show that the energetics approach to predicting beach slope of Inman and Bagnold (1963) is sound. Gradients predicted vary from 0.01 to 0.03 for a range of angles of internal friction appropriate to the local sediment (tan ø = 0.3–0.6). These compare favorably with the measured seaward slope of 0.015 formed under average maximum orbital velocities of 1.12 m s⁻¹ (landward) and 1.09 m s⁻¹ (seaward) recorded during the period of the largest storm waves.     

The vertical structure of combined wave–current flow

A simple numerical model, based on the Reynolds stress equations and k–ε turbulence closure scheme, is developed for the coastal wave and current bottom boundary layer. The current friction velocity is introduced to account for the effect of currents on waves. The implicit Crank–Nicolson finite difference method discretizes the governing equations. Vertical changing step grids with the constant ratio for two adjacent spatial steps are used together with the equal time steps in the modeling. Vertical profiles of mean current velocity and wave velocity amplitude are obtained. These modeled results are compared with the laboratory experimental data of Van Doorn [1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands; 1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands]. It has been shown that modeled and observed (Van Doorn, T., 1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands; 1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands) mean velocity profiles within the wave and current bottom boundary layer are in better agreement than outside. Modeled and observed (Van Doorn, T., 1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands) wave velocity amplitude profiles within the wave and current bottom boundary layer are in better agreement than outside. Modeled wave velocity amplitudes are in good agreement with the laboratory experimental data of Van Doorn [1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands].     

Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves I. Individual wave spectra and similarity structure

Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves have been studied by use of a wind-wave tunnel. The individual waves are defined by actual undulations of the water surface at any instant, and are characterized by concentrated shearing stress and strong vorticity at their crests. A conspicuous self-similarity structure is found in the individual wave field. The similarity manifests itself as a simple spectral form, and as the statistical 3/2-power law between nondimensional wave height and wave period, and further as the -1/2-power relationship between nondimensional phase speed and frequency, for waves of the high frequency side. The normalized energy spectrum, specially defined for individual waves, has a form practically equivalent to the traditional spectrum for component waves in the main frequency range from 0.7 to 1.5 in the frequency normalized by the peak frequency, but does not have secondary peaks at harmonics. The phase speed of individual waves also coincides with that of component waves in the main frequency range.     

深海热液真菌Fusarium sp. SCSIO 06196中抗病毒聚酮类化学成分研究

从西太平洋深海热液沉积物来源的镰刀菌SCSIO 06196中分离鉴定了6个色原酮类化合物(1~6), 通过核磁共振光谱、质谱及旋光等多种分析测试方法确定了色原酮类化合物的结构。抗病毒活性筛选发现, 化合物1~3展示出显著的抗肠道病毒EV-71活性, IC₅₀分别达到26.7μmol•L^-1、19.8μmol•L^-1和22.0μmol•L^-1 (阳性对照药物利巴韦林为177μmol•L^-1)。此外, 化合物1还显示出弱的抗流感病毒H3N2活性, IC₅₀为8.6μmol•L^-1 (阳性对照药物达菲为18.5nmol•L^-1)。     

Laboratory study of wave and turbulence velocities in a broad-banded irregular wave surf zone

The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform.