Quantifying the potential impact of land cover changes due to sea-level rise on storm surge on lower Texas coast bays

In this study we investigated the impacts of potential changes of land cover due to sea-level rise (SLR) on storm surge (i.e., the rise of water above normal sea level, namely mean-sea level and the astronomical tide, caused by hurricane winds and pressure) response inside bays on the lower Texas coast. We applied a hydrodynamic and wave model (ADCIRC + SWAN) forced by hurricane wind and pressure fields to quantify the importance of SLR-induced land cover changes, considering its impacts by changing bottom friction and the transfer of wind momentum to the water column, on the peak surge inside coastal bays. The SLR increments considered, 0.5 m to 2.0 m, significantly impacted the surge response inside the bays. The contribution of land cover changes due to SLR to the surge response, on average, ranged from a mean surge increase of 2% (SLR of 0.5 m) to 15% (SLR of 2.0 m), in addition to the SLR increments. The increase in surge response strongly depended on storm condition, with larger increases for more intense storms, and geographical location. Although land cover changes had little impact on the surge increase for SLR increments lower than 1.0 m, intense storms resulted in surge increase of up to 10% even for SLR below 1.0 m, but in most cases, the geometry changes were the major factor impacting the surge response due to SLR. We also found a strong relationship between changes in bottom friction and the surge response intensification; demonstrating the importance of considering land cover changes in coastal regions that are highly susceptible to SLR when planning for climate change.     

The influence of sea state on formation speed of alongshore variability in surf zone sand bars

The formation time of alongshore morphological variability in surf zone sand bars has long been known to differ from one beach to the other and from one post-storm period to another. Here we investigate whether the type of sea state, i.e. distant swell waves or locally generated short period wind sea, affects the formation time of the emerging alongshore topographic variability.A numerical modeling approach is used to examine the emergence of alongshore variability under different shore-normal wave forcing. A research version of Delft3D, operating on the time-scale of wave groups, is applied to a schematised bathymetry with a single bar. The model is then used to investigate several wave scenarios, examining the impact of peak period, frequency spread and directional spread on the formation time of alongshore variability.Results show that an increase in wave period has a large effect, changing the formation time up to O (250%) in case the wave period is changed from a representative value for the Dutch coast (T_p ~ 5–6 s) to an Australian South East coast value (T_p ~ 10–12 s). In contrast, modifications in the directional and frequency spread of the wave field result only in a minor change in the formation time.Examination of hydrodynamics and potential sediment transport shows that the variations in formation time are primarily related to changes in the magnitude of the time-averaged flow conditions. Variations in the magnitude of very low frequency (f < 0.004 Hz) or infragravity (0.004 < f < 0.04 Hz) surf zone flow velocities do not affect the mean sediment transport capacity. Consequently the formation speed of patterns is primarily governed by positive feedback between mean flow and morphology, and low frequency flow fluctuations are of minor importance.These findings indicate that the development of alongshore topographic variability may be faster at swell dominated open coasts, primarily due to the occurrence of longer period swell. Also, at a given site, the arrival of a long wave period swell after a storm can accelerate the emergence of variability.     

Assessment of extreme wind and waves in the Colombian Caribbean Sea for offshore applications

Interest in Colombia’s offshore industry has increased over the past years. Therefore a detailed characterization of extreme wind and waves, in terms of return periods, numbers of events and its duration during the annual cycle, is needed. Two sets of high-resolution data are used in the statistical extreme value analysis (EVA). The significant wave height data (0.125°, 6 h) are from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) ERA-Interim reanalysis available for the past 35 years (1979–2014). Surface winds (0.25°, 6 h) from the Cross-Calibrated Multi-Platform Ocean Surface Wind Vector Analyses (CCMP) of NASA/GSFC/NOAA (NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center/National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) are available for the past 24 years (1987–2011). Three well-known methods are applied to the data: the Block Maxima (BM), the Peak-Over-Threshold (POT) and the Method of Independent Storm (MIS). Several probabilistic models (Gumbel, Generalized Extreme Value, Weibull and Pareto) are evaluated for the BM and different threshold values for the POT and MIS. The results show that waves can reach up to 3.8 m and winds can be as strong as 31 m/s when considering the 50–100-year return periods. However, the wave model could underestimate values by up to one meter; hence, there is a probability of higher values in the region. Seasonally, most extreme events occur during the dry season (December–March) and during the Mid-Summer-Drought (MDS) or Veranillo months (June–July). Local conditions, including the reinforcement of the Caribbean Low Level Jet (CLLJ) and the occurrence of cold atmospheric fronts, are important drivers of extreme metoceanic variability. The total number of extreme wind events varied spatially and temporally from 15 to 65 and the mean duration from 15 to 25 h. A total number of extreme wave events ranging from <10 to 80 were computed during the annual cycle in the areas of interest, with a mean duration of less than 40 h.     

Observations of surfzone alongshore pressure gradients onshore of an ebb-tidal delta

The relative importance of radiation stress gradients and alongshore pressure gradients to surfzone dynamics is investigated using observations of water levels, waves, and flows measured onshore of a large ebb-tidal delta. Incident wave heights measured along the ~ 11-m depth contour varied about 10% over a 1.2-km alongshore transect, resulting in alongshore wave setup differences on the order of 10 cm over the 600-m extent of the surfzone instrument array in 1.5-m depth. Despite the moderate alongshore variability in wave heights, the southerly alongshore pressure gradient, associated with the alongshore variability of wave-driven set-up, was typically twice as large as the northerly radiation stress gradient forcing, consistent with the observed southerly currents during the week-long experiment. The magnitude of the alongshore forcing and resulting alongshore velocity is reproduced by the two-dimensional depth-averaged numerical model of Shi et al. (JGR-Oceans, 2011). These observations, together with the numerical results, indicate that moderate alongshore wave height gradients (O(10^− 4)) outside the surfzone owing to alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry can result in alongshore pressure gradients that are larger than radiation stress gradients.     

Wave climate variability in the North-East Atlantic Ocean over the last six decades

Ocean surface gravity waves play a major role in many engineering and environmental problems, both in the open ocean and in coastal zones. Therefore, it is essential to improve our knowledge on spatial and temporal variability of wave climate. This study aims at investigating this variability in the North-East Atlantic Ocean (25°W–0°W and 30°N–60° N), using a 57-year hindcast (1953–2009) obtained with a spectral wave model forced with reanalysis wind fields. The hindcast analysis reveals firstly strong seasonal fluctuations of wave climate, with winters characterized by large and long-period waves of mean direction spreading from south-west to north-west, and summers characterized by smaller and shorter-period waves originating from norther directions. From northern (55°N) to southern (35°N) latitudes, the significant wave height (Hs) decreases by roughly 40%, the mean wave direction (Mwd) rotates clockwise by about 25% while the peak period (Tp) only grows by 5%. These three parameters also exhibit a strong inter-annual variability, particularly when winter-means (from 1st of December to 1st of April) are considered. Linear trend analysis over the studied period shows spatially variable long-term trends, with a significant increase of Hs (up to 0.02 m yr^?1) and a counterclockwise shift of Mwd (up to ?0.1° yr^?1) at northern latitude, contrasting with a fairly constant trend for Hs and a clockwise shift of Mwd (up to +0.15° yr^?1) at southern latitudes. Long-term trends of Tp are less significant, with still a slight increase in the north-eastern part of the study area (up to +0.01 s yr^?1). Eventually, a comparison between the inter-annual variability of the winter-means of the three selected wave parameters and the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) reveals: (1) a strong positive correlation between Hs and the NAO index at northern latitudes (correlation coefficient up to R = 0.91) and a significant negative correlation at southern latitudes (up to R = ?0.6); (2) no significant correlation for Mwd north of 40°N and a clear positive correlation southward of 40°N (up to R = 0.8) and (3) a northward increasing correlation for Tp (up to R = 0.8). Long-term trends for Hs, Mwd and Tp are finally explained by a significant increase in the NAO index over the studied period.     

Wave–current interaction in a river and wave dominant estuary: A seasonal contrast

The dynamic feature of the Modaomen Estuary (ME) in the Pearl River Delta in southern China has been the subject of extensive research. In previous studies, wave–current interaction (WCI) was often neglected due to its complexity. This study uses a coupled hydrodynamic module TELEMAC-2D and wave propagation module TOMAWAC in the TELEMAC-Mascaret modeling system to quantify the effects of WCI on the hydrodynamics in the ME. The coupled wave and current modeling system was well validated against the field measurements at selected locations. The model results show that WCI varies with the seasonal change in runoff in the ME. The effect of waves on the currents is insignificant during the wet season with a current change of no more than 0.07 m/s; but, in contrast, the currents have a noticeable effect on waves. However, during the dry season, the interactions of waves and currents on each other are found to be equally significant. When wave model and current model are coupled, the velocity could increase up to a maximum of 0.30 m/s and decrease up to a maximum of 0.17 m/s. WCI is greatly affected by the propagation directions of wave and current in both seasons. Generally, wave height decreases and current increases for a following wave and current; wave height increases and current decreases for an opposing wave and current. The effects of waves on currents change with the tide. Changes are larger during neap tide than during spring tide, and stronger during ebb tide than during flood tide.     

Hydrodynamic performance of double rows of piles suspending horizontal c shaped bars

The wave transmission, reflection, and energy dissipation of the double rows of vertical piles suspending horizontal steel C shaped bars are experimentally and theoretically studied under normal regular waves. Different wave and structural parameters are investigated e.g. the wave length, the C shaped bars draft and spacing, the supporting piles diameter and spacing, and the space between the double rows. Also, the theoretical model based on an eigenfunction expansion method is developed to study the hydrodynamic breakwater performance. In order to examine the validity of the theoretical model, the theoretical results are compared with the experimental and theoretical results obtained by different authors. Comparison between experiments and predictions showed that theoretical model provides a good estimate to the different hydrodynamic coefficients when the friction factors of the upper and the lower parts are f_U = 1.5 and f_L = 0.75. The present breakwater physical model gives efficiency near other similar systems of different shapes.     

Solitary wave generation dynamics at Luzon Strait

A high resolution modeling study is undertaken, with a 2.5-dimensional nonhydrostatic model, of the generation of internal waves induced by tidal motion over the ridges in Luzon Strait. The model is forced by the barotropic tidal components K1, M2, and O1. These tidal components, along with the initial density field, were extracted from data and models. As the barotropic tide moves over the Luzon Strait sills, there is a conversion of barotropic tidal energy into baroclinic tidal energy. Depressions are generated that propagate towards the Asian Seas International Acoustics Experiment (ASIAEX) test site on the Chinese continental shelf. Nonlinear effects steepen the depressions, frequency and amplitude dispersion set in, and disintegration into large amplitude solitary waves occurs. The effects of varying the initial density field, tidal component magnitudes, as well as adding a steady background current to represent the occasional excursions of the Kuroshio Current into the strait, are considered.Depressions are generated at each of the two sills in Luzon Strait which radiate away, steepening and evolving into internal solitary wave trains. Baroclinic fluxes of available potential energy, kinetic energy and linear are calculated for various parameter combinations. The solitary wave trains produced in the simulations generally consist of large amplitude wave trains alternating with small amplitude wave trains. During strong tidal flow, Kelvin–Helmholtz type instabilities can develop over the taller double-humped sill. The solitary waves propagating towards the ASIAEX test site have been observed to reach amplitudes of 120–250 m, depending on the tidal strength. ASIAEX observations indicate amplitudes up to 150 m and the Windy Island Experiment (WISE) measurements contain magnitudes over 200 m. The model results yield solitary wave amplitudes of 70–300 m and half widths of 0.60–3.25 km, depending on parameter values. These are in the range of observations. Measurements by Klymak et al. (2006), in the South China Sea, exhibit amplitudes of 170 m, half widths of 3 km and phase speeds of 2.9 m s^?1. Model predictions indicate that the solitary waves making up the wave packet each experience different background currents with strong near surface shear.The energy in the leading soliton of the large amplitude wave trains ranges between 1.8 and 9.0 GJ m^?1. The smaller value, produced using barotropic tidal currents based on the Oregon State University data base, is the same as the energy estimated to be in a solitary wave observed by Klymak et al. (2006). Estimates of the conversion of barotropic tidal energy into radiating internal wave energy yield conversion rates ranging between 3.6% and 8.3%.     

Simulation of storm surge,wave, and coastal inundation in the Northeastern Gulf of Mexico region during Hurricane Ivan in 2004

Hurricane-induced storm surge, waves, and coastal inundation in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico region during Hurricane Ivan in 2004 are simulated using a fine grid coastal surge model CH3D (Curvilinear-grid Hydrodynamics in 3D) coupled to a coastal wave model SWAN, with open boundary conditions provided by a basin-scale surge model ADCIRC (Advanced CIRCulation) and a basin-scale wave model WW3 (WaveWatch-III). The H1wind, a reanalysis 10-m wind produced by the NOAA/AOML Hurricane Research Division (HRD), and a relatively simple analytical wind model are used, incorporating the effect of land dissipation on hurricane wind. Detailed comparison shows good agreement between the simulated and measured wind, waves, surge, and high water marks. Coastal storm surge along the coast is around 2–3 m, while peak surge on the order of 3.5 m is found near Pensacola, which is slightly to the east of the landfall location on Dauphin Island. Wind waves reach 20 m at the Mobile South station (National Data Buoy Center buoy 42040) on the shelf and 2 m inside the Pensacola/Escambia Bay. Model results show that wave-induced surge (total surge subtracted by the meteorologically-induced surge due to wind and pressure) accounts for 20–30% of the peak surge, while errors of the simulated surge and waves are generally within 10% of measured data. The extent of the simulated inundation region is increased when the effects of waves are included. Surge elevations simulated by the 3D model are generally up to 15% higher than that by the 2D model, and the effects of waves are more pronounced in the 3D results. The 3D model results inside the Pensacola/Escambia Bay show significant vertical variation in the horizontal currents. While the estuary has little impact on the surge elevation along the open coastal water, surge at the head of Escambia Bay is more than 50% higher than that at the open coast with 1.5 h delay.     

Cause and countermeasure of long-period oscillations of moored ships and the quantification of surge and heave amplitudes

Long-period oscillations of moored ships whose periods are about 1 or 2 min cause many troubles in many ports and harbours. It is necessary to investigate these phenomena and verify their causes and countermeasures in each case because they are strongly dependent on the environment of each port and harbour. From this point of view, long-period oscillations of moored ships in the Port of Shibushi in Japan were investigated by means of wave observations, the image processing of moored ship motions using the video camera and motion-capture software and numerical simulations. From observation results, the relationship between offshore long-period waves and long-period oscillations of moored ships was recognized and surge and heave amplitudes were quantified by using wave data in order to forecast moored ship motions. Furthermore, from observation and numerical results, it was revealed that long-period waves with the peak period of 120 s from the offshore typhoon kept or exaggerated the local harbour oscillation of 60–70 s and it caused long-period oscillations of moored ships. Numerical results in case of reducing the reflection coefficient of the target berth implied that it ceased the local harbour oscillation and it would give an effective countermeasure to reduce long-period oscillations of moored ships in the Port of Shibushi.     

Biogeography and phenology of satellite-measured phytoplankton seasonality in the California current

Thirteen years (1998–2010) of satellite-measured chlorophyll a are used to establish spatial patterns in climatological phytoplankton biomass seasonality across the California Current System (CCS) and its interannual variability. Multivariate clustering based on the shape of the local climatological seasonal cycle divides the study area into four groups: two with spring-summer maxima representing the northern and southern coastal upwelling zones, one with a summer minimum offshore in mid-latitudes and a fourth with very weak seasonality in between. Multivariate clustering on the seasonal cycles from all 13 years produces the same four seasonal cycle types and provides a view of the interannual variability in seasonal biogeography. Over the study period these seasonal cycles generally appear in similar locations as the climatological clusters. However, considerable interannual variability in the geography of the seasonal cycles is evident across the CCS, the most spatially extensive of which are associated with the 1997–1999 El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) signal and the 2005 delayed spring transition off the Oregon and northern and central California coasts. We quantify linear trends over the study period in the seasonal timing of the two seasonal cycles that represent the biologically productive coastal upwelling zones using four different metrics of phenology. In the northern upwelling region, the date of the spring maximum is delaying (1.34 days yr⁻¹) and the central tendency of the summer elevated chlorophyll period is advancing (0.63 days yr⁻¹). In the southern coastal upwelling region, both the initiation and cessation of the spring maximum are delaying (1.78 days yr⁻¹ and 2.44 days yr⁻¹, respectively) and the peak is increasing in duration over the study period. Connections between observed interannual shifts in phytoplankton seasonality and physical forcing, expressed as either basin-scale climate signals or local forcing, show phytoplankton seasonality in the CCS to be influenced by changes in the seasonality of the wind mixing power offshore, coastal upwelling in the near-shore regions and basin-scale signals such as ENSO across the study area.     

Wave climate scatter performance of a cycloidal wave energy converter

A lift based cycloidal wave energy converter (WEC) was investigated using potential flow numerical simulations in combination with viscous loss estimates based on published hydrofoil data. This type of wave energy converter consists of a shaft with one or more hydrofoils attached eccentrically at a radius. The main shaft is aligned parallel to the wave crests and submerged at a fixed depth. The operation of the WEC as a wave-to-shaft energy converter interacting with straight crested waves was estimated for an actual ocean wave climate. The climate chosen was the climate recorded by a buoy off the north-east shore of Oahu/Hawaii, which was a typical moderate wave climate featuring an average annual wave power P_W = 17 kWh/m of wave crest. The impact of the design variables radius, chord, span and maximum generator power on the average annual shaft energy yield, capacity factor and power production time fraction were explored. In the selected wave climate, a radius R = 5 m, chord C = 5 m and span of S = 60 m along with a maximum generator power of P_G = 1.25 MW were found to be optimal in terms of annual shaft energy yield. At the design point, the CycWEC achieved a wave-to-shaft power efficiency of 70%. In the annual average, 40% of the incoming wave energy was converted to shaft energy, and a capacity factor of 42% was achieved. These numbers exceeded the typical performance of competing renewables like wind power, and demonstrated that the WEC was able to convert wave energy to shaft energy efficiently for a range of wave periods and wave heights as encountered in a typical wave climate.     

Trade-wind waves and mud dynamics on the French Guiana coast,South America: Input from ERA-40 wave data and field investigations

The South American coast between Brazil and Venezuela is affected by longshore migrating mud banks derived from the fine-grained Amazon sediment discharge. Onshore mud migration prevails over shallow ‘bank’ areas alternating alongshore with deeper ‘inter-bank’ areas. The transport on the inner shelf, and attachment to the shoreline, of this migrating mud has been attributed mainly to wind waves. However, the lack of in situ data on waves hampers understanding of the relationship between waves and mud dynamics. A 44-yr record (1960–2004) of the ERA-40 wave dataset generated by the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) was used, in conjunction with field investigations in French Guiana, to define both event-scale and longer-term patterns of mud mobilisation induced by waves. The ratio H₀³ / T², combining wave height H and period T, and the angle of wave incidence α, were singled out as the most relevant parameters for describing wave forcing. Typical ‘bank’ and ‘inter-bank’ profiles and corresponding mud densities, and a 3-month record of changes in the thickness of the fluid mud layer in an estuarine navigation channel were monitored by echo-sounding from October 2002 to January 2003. An 80-day record of bed-level changes in the intertidal zone was obtained from August to November 2004 using a pressure transducer. The results on the wave regime of French Guiana confirm a distinctly seasonal pattern, and highlight an increase in H₀³ / T² over the 44-yr period related to an increase in trade-wind velocities determined from corresponding trends in Atlantic wind pseudo-stress off the South American coast. Wave forcing over bank areas leads to the liquefaction of a 1–3 m-thick layer of mud that is transported onshore (and alongshore by the longshore component of wave energy). The episodic nature of high wave energy events generally results in the formation of mud bar features from the shoreward mobilisation of gel-like fluid mud. The effect of waves on mud is particularly marked following long periods of low energy, and especially at the onset of the high wave energy season (October to May), when even moderate wave energy events can lead to significant mobilisation of mud.Significant phases of increased wave energy are attended by higher long-term (annual) rates of longshore mud bank migration but the correlation is rather poor between the wave forcing parameter H₀³ / T² and migration rates because stronger wave forcing is generally associated with low angles of wave incidence. This suggests a complementary role of other hydrodynamic mechanisms, such as geostrophic and tidal currents, in longshore mud bank migration.     

Coastal defence through wave farms

The possibility of using wave farms for coastal defence warrants investigation because wave energy is poised to become a major renewable in many countries over the next decades. The fundamental question in this regard is whether a wave farm can be used to reduce beach erosion under storm conditions. If the answer to this question is positive, then a wave farm can have coastal defence as a subsidiary function, in addition to its primary role of producing carbon-free energy. The objective of this work is to address this question by comparing the response of a beach in the face of a storm in two scenarios: with and without the wave farm. For this comparison a set of ad hoc impact indicators is developed: the bed level impact (BLI), beach face eroded area (FEA), non-dimensional erosion reduction (NER), and mean cumulative eroded area (CEA); and their values are determined by means of two coupled models: a high-resolution wave propagation model (SWAN) and a coastal processes model (XBeach). The study is conducted through a case study: Perranporth Beach (UK). Backed by a well-developed dune system, Perranporth has a bar between − 5 m and − 10 m. The results show that the wave farm reduces the eroded volume by as much as 50% and thus contributes effectively to coastal protection. This synergy between marine renewable energy and coastal defence may well contribute to improving the viability of wave farms through savings in conventional coastal protection.     

High resolution downscaled ocean waves (DOW) reanalysis in coastal areas

Large-scale wave reanalysis databases (0.1°–1° spatial resolution) provide valuable information for wave climate research and ocean applications which require long-term time series (> 20 years) of hourly sea state parameters. However, coastal studies need a more detailed spatial resolution (50–500 m) including wave transformation processes in shallow waters. This specific problem, called downscaling, is usually solved applying a dynamical approach by means of numerical wave propagation models requiring a high computational time effort. Besides, the use of atmospheric reanalysis and wave generation and propagation numerical models introduce some uncertainties and errors that must be dealt with. In this work, we present a global framework to downscale wave reanalysis to coastal areas, taking into account the correction of open sea significant wave height (directional calibration) and drastically reducing the CPU time effort (about 1000 ×) by using a hybrid methodology which combines numerical models (dynamical downscaling) and mathematical tools (statistical downscaling). The spatial wave variability along the boundaries of the propagation domain and the simultaneous wind fields are taking into account in the numerical propagations to performance similarly to the dynamical downscaling approach. The principal component analysis is applied to the model forcings to reduce the data dimension simplifying the selection of a subset of numerical simulations and the definition of the wave transfer function which incorporates the dependency of the wave spatial variability and the non-uniform wind forcings. The methodology has been tested in a case study on the northern coast of Spain and validated using shallow water buoys, confirming a good reproduction of the hourly time series structure and the different statistical parameters.     

Experimental study of interactions between multi-directional focused wave and vertical circular cylinder,part II: Wave force

We describe experiments with multi-directional focused waves interacted with a vertical circular cylinder in a 3D wave basin. The focus of this study is on the run-up of multi-directional focused waves, wave forces, and wave pressures on the cylinder. Part I, the study on wave run-up, has already been presented by Li et al. (2012). In this paper, the analysis of the wave force on the vertical cylinder is presented.In this experiment, a cylinder with 0.25 m in diameter was adopted and different wave parameters, such as focused wave amplitude, peak frequency, frequency bandwidth and directional spreading index, are considered. The model scale k_pa (k_p is the wave number corresponding to peak frequency, a is the radium of the cylinder) varies from 0.32 to 0.65. The maximum forces of multi-directional focused wave on cylinder were measured and investigated. The results showed that the wave parameters have a significant influence on the wave force, and that the spatial profile of the surface of multi-directional focused wave can also affect its force on the cylinder, which is different from two-dimensional wave. In addition, the ‘secondary loading cycle’ phenomenon was also observed and discussed. In our experiments, the ‘secondary loading cycles’ occur when kA > 0.36 for all cases. While in some referred small scale experiments, the secondary load cycles are observed even for kA = 0.2, when the waves are longer enough. To larger model scale, the pronounced secondary load cycle occurs with larger wave steepness waves.     

Impact of long separating distances on the energy production of two interacting wave energy converters

In this paper, wave farms composed of two either surging or heaving wave energy converters are considered. Using a numerical model which takes into account wave interactions, the impact on the absorbed wave power of the separating distance between the two systems and the wave direction is studied. In regular waves, a modified q_mod factor is introduced and it is found to be more relevant than the usual q factor for identifying this impact. Then, it is shown that, asymptotically, the alteration of the energy absorption due to wave interaction effects decreases with the square root of the distance. This is a slow decay, which leads to a still significant modification of the wave energy absorption at long distance (up to 15% at a distance of 2000 m). In irregular waves, it is shown that constructive and destructive effects compensate each other, particularly when considering the mean annual power. It leads to a smaller impact of the wave interactions on the absorbed energy and shorter distances (smaller than 10% for distances greater than 400 m). Finally, conclusions on if wave interactions should be taken into account or not when designing a wave farm are drawn in function of the distance.     

Hydrography and circulation of the West Antarctic Peninsula Continental Shelf

The water mass structure and circulation of the continental shelf waters west of the Antarctic Peninsula are described from hydrographic observations made in March–May 1993. The observations cover an area that extends 900 km alongshore and 200 km offshore and represent the most extensive hydrographic data set currently available for this region. Waters above 100–150 m are composed of Antarctic Surface Water and its end member Winter Water. Below the permanent pycnocline is a modified version of Circumpolar Deep Water, which is a cooled and freshened version of Upper Circumpolar Deep Water. The distinctive signature of cold and salty water from the Bransfield Strait is found at some inshore locations, but there is little indication of significant exchange between Bransfield Strait and the west Antarctic Peninsula shelf. Dynamic topography at 200 m relative to 400 m indicates that the baroclinic circulation on the shelf is composed of a large, weak, cyclonic gyre, with sub-gyres at the northeastern and southwestern ends of the shelf. The total transport of the shelf gyre is 0.15 Sv, with geostrophic currents of order 0.01 m s^-1. A simple model that balances across-shelf diffusion of heat and salt from offshore Upper Circumpolar Deep Water with vertical diffusion of heat and salt across the permanent pycnocline into Winter Water is used to explain the formation of the modified Circumpolar Deep Water that is found on the shelf. Model results show that the observed thermohaline distributions across the shelf can be maintained with a coefficient of vertical diffusion of 10^-4 m² s^-1 and horizontal diffusion coefficients for heat and salt of 200 and 1200 m² s^-1, respectively. When the effects of double diffusion are included in the model, the required horizontal diffusion coefficients for heat and salt are 200 and 400 m² s^-1, respectively.