Shoaling Surface Gravity Waves Cause a Force and a Torque on the Bottom

Freely propagating surface gravity waves are observed to slow down and to stop at a beach when the bottom has a relatively gentle upward slope toward the shore and the frequency range of the waves covers the most energetic wind waves (sea and swell). Essentially no wave reflection can be seen and the measured reflected energy is very small compared to that transmitted shoreward. One consequence of this is that the flux of the wave’s linear momentum decreases in the direction of wave propagation, which is equivalent to a time rate of change of the momentum. It takes a force to cause the time rate of change of the momentum. Therefore, the bottom exerts a force on the waves in order to decrease the momentum flux. By Newton’s third law (action equals reaction) the waves then impart an equal but opposite force to the bottom. In shallow (but finite) water depths the wave force per unit bottom area is calculated, for normal angle of incidence to the beach, to be directly proportional to the square of the wave amplitude and to the bottom slope and inversely proportional to the mean depth; it is independent of the wave frequency. Constants of proportionality are: 1/4, the fluid density and the acceleration of gravity. Swell attenuation near coasts and some characteristics of sand movement in the near-shore region are not inconsistent with the algebraic structure of the wave force formula. Since the force has a depth variation which is significantly faster than that of the dimensions of the particle orbits in the vertical direction, the bottom induces a torque on the fluid particles that decreases the angular momentum flux of the waves. By an extension of Newton’s third law, the waves also exert an equal but opposite torque on the bottom. And because the bottom force on the waves exists over a horizontal distance, it does work on the waves and decreases their energy flux. Thus, theoretically, the fluxes of energy, angular and linear momentum are not conserved for shoaling surface gravity waves. Mass flux, associated with the Stokes drift, is assumed to be conserved, and the wave frequency is constant for a steady medium.     

Shoaling waves: A discussion

Surface gravity waves are commonly observed to slow down and to stop at a beach without any noticeable reflection taking place. We assume that as a consequence the waves are continuously giving up their linear and angular momenta, which they carry with them, along with energy, as they propagate into gradually decreasing mean depths of water. It takes a force to cause a time rate of decrease in the linear momentum and a torque to produce a time rate of decrease in the angular momentum. Both a force and a torque operate on the shoaling waves, due to the presence of the sloping bottom, to cause the diminution of their linear and angular momenta. By Newton’s third law, action equals reaction, an equal but opposite force and torque are exerted on the bottom. No other mechanisms for transferring linear and angular momenta are included in the model. Since the force on the waves acts over a horizontal distance during shoaling, work is done on the waves and energy flux is not conserved. Bottom friction, wave interaction with a mean flow, scattering from small-scale bottom irregularities and set-up are neglected. Mass flux is conserved, which leads to a shoreward monotonic decrease in amplitude consistent with available swell data. The formula for the time-independent force on the bottom agrees qualitatively with observations in seven different ways: four for swell attenuation and three for sediment transport on beaches. Ardhuin (2006) argues against a mean force on the bottom that is not hydrostatic, mainly by using conservation of energy flux. He also applies the action balance equation to shoaling waves. Action is a difficult concept to grasp for motion in a continuum; it cannot be easily visualized, and it is not really necessary for solving the shoaling wave problem. We prefer angular momentum because it is clearly related to the observed orbital motion of the fluid particles in progressive surface waves. The physical significance of wave action for surface waves has been described recently by showing that in deep water action is equivalent to the magnitude of the wave’s orbital angular momentum (Kenyon and Sheres, 1996). Finally, Ardhuin requires that there be a significant exchange of linear momentum between shoaling waves and an unspecified mean flow, although the magnitude and direction of the exchange are not predicted. No mention is made of what happens to the orbital angular momentum during shoaling. Mass flux conservation is not stated.     

Breaking of Solitary Waves on Uniform Slopes

The propagation,shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on mild slopes are simulated byboundary element method.In this paper,the criterion of breaking solitary waves on mild slopes is discussed.The criterion is that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave celerity equalsone.However,the case that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave ce-lerity is below one but the front face of wave profile becomes vertical is also considered as a breaking criteri-on.According to the above criteria,the breaking index for slopes 1:10 to 1:25 is studied.The result is com-pared to other researchers'.The deformation of solitary waves on slopes is discussed and the distribution offluid velocities at breaking is shown.     

On the form of crests in limiting gravity waves

Properties of surface singularities and the form of wave crests of limiting gravity waves in steady-state flows of an ideal liquid are considered by analyzing the kinematic boundary condition. It is shown that, for rotational waves, the angle at the crest can have any value from 0° to 180°, while it has the only value 90° in the case of irrotational waves. Two inferences are made from Bernoulli’s integral and the properties of singularities: (i) the Stokes wave is a rotational wave and (ii) no angular points can appear on the profiles of capillary-gravity and capillary waves.     

On estimating extremes in an evolving wave field

Observations of waves as a time series from a fixed or moored sensor are shown to underestimate the extreme waves occurring in the vicinity. The underestimate arises because of the difference in phase and envelope propagation of surface water waves so that the highest crest, for example, is recorded only when the crest coincides with the envelope maximum at the location of the wave recorder. In addition, the dispersive nature of water waves can lead to the coalescence of groups of waves as longer waves catch up to shorter slower waves, so that the group shape changes markedly as the waves propagate. Moored accelerometer buoys introduce another error that exacerbates the underestimate of the highest crest—the quasi-Lagrangian motion of the buoy leads to flattening of the crests and sharpening of the troughs so that apparent mean water level is raised and thus the height of crests above it is reduced. An analysis approach to correct these underestimates is outlined and tested with observed data against the predictions of extreme values based on narrow-banded random wave theory.     

波峰特征量的统计分布

本文在作者另文数值模拟得到的三维海浪基础上 ,进一步分析给出了三维波峰长度、高度及方向角度等特征量的统计分布。发现考虑海浪的方向性质后波峰分布不再是均匀连续的 ;波峰的长度分布受方向函数影响 ,方向分布越宽 ,波峰的平均长度越短 ,波峰的方向角分布越宽 ;波峰高度和长度在波峰高度较小时有很大的相关性 ,而在波峰高度很大时无关     

Experimental Study on Ocean Internal Wave Force on Vertical Cylinders in Different Depths

A series of experimental studies about the force of internal solitary wave and internal periodic wave on vertical cylinders have been carried out in a two-dimensional layered internal wave flume. The internal solitary waves are produced by means of gravitational collapse at the layer thickness ratio of 0.2, and the internal periodic waves are produced with rocker-flap wave maker at the layer thickness ratio of 0.93. The wave parameters are obtained through dyeing photography. The vertical cylinders of the same size are arranged in different depths. The horizontal force on each cylinder is measured and the vertical distribution rules are researched. The internal wave heights are changed to study the impact of wave heights on the force. The results show that the horizontal force of concave type internal solitary wave on vertical cylinder in the upper-layer fluid has the same direction as the wave propagating, while it has an opposite direction in the lower-layer. The horizontal force is not evenly distributed in the lower fluid. And the force at different depths increases along with wave height. Internal solitary wave can produce an impact load on the entire pile. The horizontal force of internal periodic waves on the vertical cylinders is periodically changed at the frequency of waves. The direction of the force is opposite in the upper and lower layers, and the value is close. In the upper layer except the depth close to the interface, the force is evenly distributed; but it tends to decrease with the deeper depth in the lower layer. A periodic shear load can be produced on the entire pile by internal periodic waves, and it may cause fatigue damage to structures.     

Three-dimensional experiments on landslide generated waves at a sloping coast

This paper describes new three dimensional experiments on water waves generated by landslides. The landslide is reproduced by a rigid elliptical body, sliding along an inclined plane (slope of 1/3, 1 vertical, 3 horizontal). The generated water waves are free to propagate both offshore and alongshore, since the plan dimensions of the used wave tank are of at least one order of magnitude larger than the width of the landslide, which can be considered to be a scale of the wave length. The experimental study has been carried out reproducing both subaerial and partially submerged landslides. The wave generation process is studied by means of video records of the near field flow and measurement of the landslide movement; the properties of the waves propagating along the coast are described on the basis of runup gauges. The waves observed during the experiments always present first a crest and then a trough; as the first wave propagates away from the generation area the crest tends to become smaller than the trough and the maximum runup along the coast is given by the second or by the third wave. An important feature is that the observed runup along the coast firstly grows with the distance from the generation area, it reaches a maximum value at about two times the width of the landslide, and then decreases. An estimate of the celerity at which the waves propagate along the coast is given on the basis of gauge measurements; it results that the crests propagate faster than the troughs, and the wave period increases.     

Statistics of Wave Crest Characteristics

The statistical distribution of wave crest characteristics such as crest length, crest height, joint crest height and length are analyzed based on numerical simulation of 3-D random waves. The effects of directional functions and wave crest defining methods on crest characteristics are also studied.The results show that wave crests are no longer uniform and continuous in directional wave field; the distribution of crest length is obviously influenced by the directional function; the statistics of crest characteristics obtained by the two different methods are almost the same.     

Laboratory modeling of the propagation of periodic internal waves over bottom slopes

The experimental investigation of the run-up of periodic internal waves in a two-layer fluid on the coastal slope is performed in an open hydrochannel at the Physical Department of the Lomonosov Moscow State University. The waves are produced by a wave generator. We study the transformation of waves, the vertical structure of the field of velocities of mass transfer, and the behavior of the parameters of internal waves propagating over the sloping bottom. It is shown that the run-up and breaking of internal waves are accompanied by periodic emissions of portions of the heavier fluid from the bottom layer upward along the slope. The Stokes drift velocity changes its sign as a function of depth. Moreover, both the wave length (the horizontal distance between the neighboring crests) and the height of waves over the sloping bottom (the elevation of the crest over the slope along the vertical) decrease as the wave approaches the coast.     

Momentum balance in shoaling gravity waves: Comment on ’shoaling surface gravity waves cause a force and a torque on the bottom’ by K. E. Kenyon

In a recent paper, Kenyon (2004) proposed that the wave-induced energy flux is generally not conserved, and that shoaling waves cause a mean force and torque on the bottom. That force was equated to the divergence of the wave momentum flux estimated from the assumption that the wave-induced mass flux is conserved. This assumption and conclusions are contrary to a wide body of observations and theory. Most importantly, waves propagate in water, so that the momentum balance generally involves the mean water flow. Although the expression for the non-hydrostatic bottom force given by Kenyon is not supported by observations, a consistent review of existing theory shows that a smaller mean wave-induced force must be present in cases with bottom friction or wave reflection. That force exactly balances the change in wave momentum flux due to bottom friction and the exchange of wave momentum between incident and reflected wave components. The remainder of the wave momentum flux divergence, due to shoaling or wave breaking, is compensated by the mean flow, with a balance involving hydrostatic pressure forces that arise from a change in mean surface elevation that is very well verified by observations.     

Internal tide and nonlinear internal wave behavior at the continental slope in the northern south China Sea

A field program to measure acoustic propagation characteristics and physical oceanography was undertaken in April and May 2001 in the northern South China Sea. Fluctuating ocean properties were measured with 21 moorings in water of 350- to 71-m depth near the continental slope. The sea floor at the site is gradually sloped at depths less than 90 m, but the deeper area is steppy, having gradual slopes over large areas that are near critical for diurnal internal waves and steep steps between those areas that account for much of the depth change. Large-amplitude nonlinear internal gravity waves incident on the site from the east were observed to change amplitude, horizontal length scale, and energy when shoaling. Beginning as relatively narrow solitary waves of depression, these waves continued onto the shelf much broadened in horizontal scale, where they were trailed by numerous waves of elevation (alternatively described as oscillations) that first appeared in the continental slope region. Internal gravity waves of both diurnal and semidiurnal tidal frequencies (internal tides) were also observed to propagate into shallow water from deeper water, with the diurnal waves dominating. The internal tides were at times sufficiently nonlinear to break down into bores and groups of high-frequency nonlinear internal waves.     

Wave crest and trough distributions in a broad-banded directional wave field

It is well established that the modulational instability enhances the probability of occurrence for extreme events in long crested wave fields. Recent studies, however, have shown that the coexistence of directional wave components can reduce the effects related to the modulational instability. Here, numerical simulations of the Euler equations are used to investigate whether the modulational instability may produce significant deviations from second-order statistical properties of surface gravity waves when short crestness (i.e., directionality) is accounted for. The case of a broad-banded directional wave field (i.e. wind sea) is investigated. The analysis is concentrated on the wave crest and trough distribution. For completeness a comparison with a unidirectional wave field is presented also. Results will show that the distributions based on second-order theory provide a good estimate for the simulated crest and trough height also at low probability levels.     

Cyclostrophic balance in surface gravity waves

The cyclostrophic balance (pressure forcevs. force centrifugal force) is shown to be satisfied for all fluid particles in surface gravity waves with sinusoidal form and circular particle orbits. Consequences of the cyclostrophic balance are 1) that the normal dispersion relation for deep water hold and 2) that the orbital radius decrease with increasing depth at the usual exponential rate, from which it follows that the wave pressure and particle speed also decrease with depth exponentially. In addition, the cyclostrophic and hydrostatic balances together predict wave breaking at the crests for amplitudes exceeding one divided by the wave number. In contrast to the traditional perturbation method, based on irrotational flow, the cyclostrophic method does not demand that the amplitude be much less than a wave length and does not require an infinite wave train.     

Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.     

带横隔板局部开孔沉箱在斜向波作用下的受力研究

基于线性势流假定,对斜向波作用下带横隔板局部开孔沉箱防波堤的水平波浪力进行了理论研究。给出了开孔沉箱法向水平力和横隔板受力的理论计算方法,在极限情况下波浪力的计算结果与文献中的已有结果一致。利用数值算例分析了开孔沉箱总水平力的主要影响因素。开孔沉箱法向总水平力的减小主要集中于结构上半部分波浪影响范围以内。增加单个开孔沉箱的长度有利于减小结构所受总水平波浪力。当波浪入射角或沉箱前开孔墙孔隙影响系数幅值较大时,开孔沉箱横隔板上总水平力的最大值要超过相应的沉箱法向总水平力,此时要注意横隔板的强度问题。     

Forced convection accompanying wind waves

Wind-wave tunnel experiments reveal, by use of techniques of the flow visualization, that wind waves are accompanied by the wind drift surface current with large velocity shear and with horizontal variation of velocity relative to the wave profile. The surface current converges from the crest to a little leeward face of the crest, making a downward flow there, even though the wave is not breaking. Namely, wind waves are accompanied by forced convections relative to the crests of the waves. Since the location of the convergence and the downward flow travels on the water surface as the crest of the wave propagates, the motion as a whole is characterized by turbulent structure as well as by the nature of water-surface waves. In this meaning, the term of real wind waves is proposed in contrast with ordinary water waves. The study of real wind waves will be essential in future development of the study of wind waves.     

底部透空不透水建筑物波压力研究

底部透空不透水建筑物是近海工程中的一种新型结构,与传统水工建筑物相比,其能灵活适应基床不发生变形、阻止波浪进入后方造成破坏。本文通过构建物理模型,在波浪水槽中进行试验,测试了底部透空不透水直立建筑物不规则波作用,得到了不同水深、相同波浪要素时,该型直立建筑物迎浪面和底面的水平总力最大时各测点正向波压力和负向波压力数据。对比分析了不同水深下底部透空不透水直立建筑物的水平总力及垂直力,总结了波峰和波谷作用下波浪力沿建筑物表面的分布规律,可为海岸工程结构设计提供依据。     

Numerical study of nonlinear freak wave impact underneath a fixed horizontal deck in 2-D space

Freak waves are extreme and unexpected surface waves with huge wave heights that may lead to severe damage to ships and offshore structures. However, few researches have been conducted to investigate the impact underneath fixed horizontal decks caused by freak waves. To study these phenomena, a 2-D numerical wave tank is built in which nonlinear freak waves based on the Peregrine breather solution are generated. As a validation, a regular-wave-induced underneath impact is simulated and compared to the existing experimental measurements. Then the nonlinear freak-wave-induced impact is investigate with different values of deck clearance above the mean free surface. In addition, a comparative simulation of a “large” regular wave based on the 2nd-order Stokes wave theory with the same crest height and wave length of the nonlinear freak wave is carried out to reveal the unique features of the nonlinear freak-wave-induced impact. By applying a fluid–structure interaction (FSI) algorithm in which the bottom deck and front side wall are simplified as Euler beams in 2-D and discretized by the finite element method (FEM), the hydroelastic effects are considered during the impact event. The vertical force acting underneath the bottom deck, the transversal force acting on the front side wall, the structural displacements of the elastic deck and wall are analyzed and discussed respectively, from which meaningful conclusions are drawn.     

Influence of Coupled Rossby Waves on Primary Productivity and Tuna Abundance in the Indian Ocean

Interannual coupled Rossby waves in the extratropical Indian Ocean propagate westward in covarying pycnocline depth, sea surface temperature, and meridional surface wind anomalies from the west coast of Australia between 15°S and 35°S, taking 3–4 years to transit the interior ocean to Madagascar. In the interior subtropical gyre, where the tuna longline catch (TLC) mainly concerns two species (albacore and bigeye), these waves have been observed to affect year-to-year changes in catch, with wave crests (troughs) in the main pycnocline associated with high (low) TLC anomalies. This suggested that tuna longline catch is associated with the entrainment of nutrient-rich pycnocline water into the photic zone and a subsequent increase in primary productivity there. Here, this hypothesis is examined within the context of SeaWiFS chlorophyll concentration (CC). We find the situation the opposite of that expected, with wave crests (troughs) in the main pycnocline associated with low (high) CC anomalies averaged over the photic zone. These results are shown to be consistent with a model relating the anomalous CC tendency to upper-layer divergence in the wave, not unlike that relating surface slicks to upper-layer divergence in internal gravity waves. Thus, the connection between interannual coupled Rossby waves and TLC in the interior subtropical gyre does not appear to derive from wave-induced modulation of the pelagic food web. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.