海岸沿岸流垂向分布实验研究

进行海岸沿岸流模型实验,利用ADV(acoustic doppler velocimeter)测量了沿岸流流速沿垂直岸线方向多个断面的垂向分布。采用Faria等的方法对实验结果进行了分析,将沿岸流沿水深分为上层和下层两部分:下层采用对数分布来表达沿岸流的垂向分布;上层考虑了波浪引起的自由表面的波动,流速分布为修正的对数分布。最后对沿岸流垂向分布特征做了分析,并与Visser和Hamilton的实验结果做了对比。     

广东省14个海滩裂流类型及统计特征分析

裂流是沿海地区频发的一种高速离岸流。根据Castelle的裂流分类模型对广东省14个海滩的Google Earth影像进行了解译分类,对裂流分类模型在遥感影像中的应用进行了探讨。结果表明:在高风险月份,海滩裂流的组成较为单一,混合型裂流少,水深控制的裂流占据主导地位,裂流数量总体维持在较高水平;在中风险月份,水动力控制的裂流和混合型裂流的比例增加,水深控制的裂流仍然占有一定比例;在低风险月份,裂流很少出现,甚至无裂流发生。裂流的类型与海滩的状态密切相关。对于海湾中的海滩,海湾长度影响裂流的数量,海湾凹入度影响不同类型裂流的组成比例。考虑到实验条件的限制,这一规律需要后续结合实际地形地貌进行更细致和深入的研究和验证。按照本文解译标准得出的分类结果,与前人提出的裂流风险性评价模型吻合度较高,进一步说明了该解译标准的有效性,为今后对海滩裂流的研究和分类工作提供了一定的参考。     

基于Boussinesq水波模型的聚焦波模拟

基于最高导数为3阶的单层Boussinesq方程,建立了聚焦波的时域波浪计算模型。数值模型求解采用了预报?校正的有限差分法。对于时间差分格式,预报和校正分别采用3阶Adams-Bashforth格式和4阶Adams-Moulton格式。首先,针对不同水深条件下水槽中传播的强非线性波进行模拟,并将数值结果与流函数的数值解析解进行了比较,结果表明无论是波面位移、波面处的水平速度和垂向速度均与解析解符合较好,最大波峰面的速度分布伴随水深的增加与解析解吻合程度变差,非线性速度分布的适用范围与线性解析解适应范围kh<3.5基本一致。其次,对深水聚焦波演化进行了模拟研究,研究中聚焦波的生成采用在边界点累加不同频率线性规则波的方法。应用聚焦波物理模型实验结果验证模型,计算聚焦位置处的波面位移和沿水深的速度分布与实验结果的对比表明,波面位移吻合程度较好,垂向的水平速度分布基本吻合。最后,保持中心频率(周期)不变,数值模拟了周期范围变化下最大聚焦波峰面以及波峰面水平速度的变化趋势,结果表明波峰面值和波峰面水平速度随着周期范围缩小而增大。     

弧形海岸裂流的数值模拟研究

弧形海岸波浪产生的裂流严重危害人类活动，但是目前对其特征缺乏充分认识。本文对Haller物理模型实验和三亚大东海的数值模拟表明FUNWAVE模式具有较好的裂流模拟能力。基于该模式进行了多种弧形海岸条件的裂流数值模拟，给出裂流的一些特征：（1）海岸弯曲度增大，裂流增强；（2）海岸坡度对裂流有比较大的影响，太陡或太平缓的海岸不利于形成裂流；（3）海岸尺寸减小，裂流减弱；（4）波高和波周期增大，裂流增强，但是对于某些海岸而言，0.4m波高可能就存在危害比较大的裂流。     

挡潮闸矩形孔口式鱼道紊流结构及放鱼试验研究

对挡潮闸枢纽中矩形中孔、底孔鱼道中紊流结构进行了较为系统的试验研究,并做了放鱼试验。选择了一种鱼类偏爱流速所对应的流量作为典型流量,考虑了不同的孔口位置(中孔和底孔),用声学多普勒测速仪(ADV)量测了测点的三维瞬时流速及流向,分析了矩形孔口鱼道的三维时均流速分布特征、断面最大流速沿程变化规律、流速矢量场、紊动强度分布及雷诺应力分布。此外,还通过放鱼试验,利用在鱼体植入T形标签和高速摄影机观察了过鱼对象对中孔、底孔的反应情况,分析了过鱼对象与矩形孔口鱼道紊流结构的关系。试验结果表明:水流经中孔形成三维紊动自由射流,经底孔形成三维壁面射流,中孔纵向流速呈高斯分布,而底孔纵向流速则近似为高斯分布,流速由孔口向两侧逐渐减小;中孔和底孔横向流速在位于孔口范围内的纵剖面上沿程减小,孔口之外则变化较小;中孔和底孔垂向流速分布特征表现为在铅垂方向上均存在旋涡;在中孔水平面和纵剖面上,纵向最大流速均沿程衰减;中孔和底孔情形孔口处紊动强度和雷诺应力比非孔口处大得多,而非孔口处不同水深平面上紊动强度和雷诺应力变化趋于平缓;过鱼对象喜爱在紊动强度分布的峰值区和雷诺应力较大变幅区溯游。     

沿岸流中混合系数的实验研究

进行了在规则波作用下破波带内水平混合系数测量的物理模型实验。通过在沿岸流流场中投放墨水点源和采用CCD摄像机摄像,测量了点源扩散过程。利用水深平均二维扩散方程近似解析解得到了由实验结果计算混合系数的方法。实验结果表明:扩散系数仅依赖于当地水深,与波浪参数(周期和波高)无关。沿岸流沿水深变化产生的离散作用导致顺流方向(纵向)混合系数远大于横流方向(横向)混合系数。横流方向混合系数中由波浪产生的扩散系数占总扩散系数约40%,其余为波浪破碎引起的湍流产生的扩散系数。     

改进的波流相互作用Boussinesq方程

对于波流相互作用的Boussinesq方程,为了考虑水流作用所引起的平均水面变化,通过引入新的计算速度,使方程色散关系中的水深为考虑水流影响后的实际水深,并使方程色散精度达到了Padé[4,4]。通过计算潜堤强水流和裂流两种背景水流流场情况下的波浪运动特征,验证了该模型和数值方法的正确性。     

非淹没刚性植物对海啸作用下海堤水动力特性影响数值模拟研究

基于非静压单相流模型NHWAVE建立了高精度数值波浪水槽。通过设计不同的计算工况,系统研究了非淹没刚性植物对海啸作用下海堤周围水动力特性的影响。着重分析了不同入射波高、不同植物分布密度以及不同植物分布宽度条件下海啸波沿程波形特征以及海堤堤顶越浪流空间分布特征。结果表明:不同入射波高、植物分布密度以及植物宽度条件下,堤顶流厚度和水体流速具有明显单调的变化趋势,并且随着植物分布密度和宽度增大,波能衰减增大;随着入射波非线性增强,植物分布密度和分布宽度对堤顶前段水流厚度的影响也随之增强,而对堤顶后段水流厚度的影响则减弱,且堤顶后缘水流厚度约为堤顶前缘厚度的二分之一;在波浪非线性较大情况下,植物的存在对堤顶流速度的空间分布趋势几乎没有影响,但相对堤顶流速度增加程度均大于无植物情况,且堤顶后缘水流速度约为堤顶前缘的1.6倍。     

决口海堤水波传播模拟和分析研究Ⅱ:2D传播

应用经验证的SWASH数学模型,分析了海堤决口中心线沿线实测水深分布规律和保护区淹没水量与淹没面积。对不同特征水深进行验证,进而探讨不同波要素对不同形式的海堤决口堤后特征水深分布情况以及波浪传播距离与时间的关系;分析了物理模型试验中海堤决口宽度以及不同波要素对堤后洪水波演进的影响;计算了不同决口深度和宽度对洪水波传播的影响,建立堤后水体淹没水量和淹没面积分布公式。成果可供我国沿海城市和地区在风暴潮和台风浪作用下海堤决口风险图绘制参考。     

马蹄波波形特征和对圆柱作用实验研究

为了研究真实海洋表面马蹄波特性以及对建筑物的作用,通过物理模型实验研究了马蹄波的波形特征参数以及马蹄波对圆柱体的作用。实验中通过对浪高仪采集的波面升高时间历程曲线进行分析得出了不同水深情况下马蹄波的垂向几何特征,并通过快速傅里叶变换得出了马蹄波波幅谱的特征,研究了马蹄波各组成波波幅沿空间的变化从而得出了圆柱存在对马蹄波演化的影响,同时给出马蹄波绕射形成的波面分布和不同频率谐波在圆柱周围的分布,讨论了马蹄波不同于Stokes波对圆柱作用的特征。结果表明,马蹄波波形受水深影响较大,水深越浅,马蹄波的波面形状越接近椭圆余弦波。圆柱体的存在干扰了马蹄波不稳定的增长,使其在接近圆柱时呈下降趋势,导致不稳定幅值最大值的位置提前并且出现在偏离圆柱迎浪点的侧表面,从而使圆柱受到侧向力的作用。     

珊瑚礁海岸波流运动特性整体物理模型实验研究

根据现场地形在港池中建立三维珊瑚礁?潟湖?裂口海岸定床整体物理模型,采用波高传感器、流速仪和表面流速测量系统分别测量了规则波作用下珊瑚礁海岸不同位置的波浪和流场特征。结果表明:礁坪上,波高在向岸方向逐渐减小,总减小幅度为86.7%,增水先增大后减小,沿礁坪下降幅度为65.9%,水流以向岸流为主,存在着先增大后减小的趋势;潟湖中,波高靠近裂口处较大,中部最大值约为两侧最小值的2.8倍,增水则靠近裂口处最小,相比两侧最大值下降了25.5%,水流主要为对称地指向裂口的沿岸流,流速从两侧到裂口先增大后减小;裂口中波高变化不大,增水在靠近潟湖处最大,为礁坪上增水的47.6%,水流主要为离岸流,流速同样是先增大后减小。量化分析了环流驱动力、辐射应力与波面压力梯度的空间变化规律,发现礁坪上向岸流变化是平均水位梯度和辐射应力相互作用的结果,在裂口中的离岸流驱动力主要为辐射应力,而潟湖中的沿岸流变化由平均水位梯度决定的。     

华南休闲海滩沙坝触发的裂流风险及特征研究

为应对频发的致命性海滩溺水事故，自然资源部开展了我国首次滨海旅游区裂流灾害技术调查，在华南地区发现大量滨海休闲海滩存在浅滩沙坝和裂流现象。作为全国调查的部分成果，本文应用多种方法研究了广东省3个热门海滩沙坝触发的裂流机理、特征和演变规律。地形动力计算和卫星影像显示了沙坝形态、岸线形状以及裂流的高度动态性，尤其在青澳湾裂流呈现非常规的反季节变化，冬季风险较高而夏季风险较低。在相位解析水动力数值模拟中，裂流表现出对沙坝形态、浪高、浪向的高度敏感性。沙坝间较宽间隙会产生尺寸较大的裂流区，但比起窄沟槽不一定伴随更强的流速。当大部分水流集中从邻近的较宽通道回流入海时，部分窄沟槽几乎没有裂流产生。裂流流速与浪高成正比与入射角成反比。数值模拟结果表明，当入射角达到10°～30°时，沿岸流会取代离岸流占主导地位。现场调查也验证了在低潮时，较浅的水深会放大水流和波浪的地形效应，导致裂流风险加剧。本文研究结果可为滨海旅游区裂流灾害的工程减缓措施和公共警示提供有益参考。未来将会持续开展针对特定岸线的长期观测，以为裂流预警报和风险管控积累足够的统计数据。     

离岸流灾害水动力学过程的数值模拟研究

离岸流是近岸流的重要组成部分,当波浪受到特殊海滩地形的影响,会形成一股沿着离岸方向运动的高速水流,能够迅速将人带离海岸,对海滨安全造成威胁。为了深入探究离岸流的形成机理及水动力学特性,本文基于二阶Stokes波浪理论,采用了更为光滑的变截面沙坝模型,通过流体体积法捕捉自由液面,对离岸流进行三维数值模拟探究。本文重点分析了离岸流产生时流场的瞬时速度、时均速度、压强等不同参量的分布规律,结果显示在沙坝和海岸线之间,有一对方向相反的水循环体系;对比不同流层离岸流的速度,了解到波浪与离岸流的耦合作用;并探究了入射波波高对离岸流强度及分布区域的影响,深化了对离岸流水动力学过程的认识。     

东大港水道流速垂线分布探讨

对辐射沙洲海域东大港水道4号站位连续2个潮次的流速测量资料进行了分析、研究,拟合给出了流速垂线分布关系,并根据实际测量资料率定了该站位各时刻6个水层的浑水水流的尾流函数项表达式,这些表达式表明浑水水流的尾流函数项是相对深度和摩阻速度的函数。     

西洋东大港水道流速垂线分布研究

对辐射沙洲海域东大港4#站位连续2个潮周期的流速测量资料进行了分析、研究,拟合给出了流速垂线分布关系,并根据实际测量资料确定了该站位6个水层的浑水水流尾流函数项表达式。这些表达式表明浑水水流尾流函数是相对深度和摩阻速度的函数。探讨分析了尾流函数的空间分布和潮周期过程。非恒定流的水流尾流函数项的准确表达,对于揭示含沙水流流速结构及水、沙相影响作用规律将起到启发和推动作用。     

Influence of Spur Dike on Hydrodynamic Exchange Between Channel and Shoal of Generalization Estuary in Physical Model Test

Widely applied in maintaining estuarial waterway depth, the spur dike has played an important role in currents and sediment exchange between channel and shoal and sediment back-silting in the channel. Through establishing a generalized physical model at a bifurcated estuary and conducting current tests under the joint action of runoff and tide, the influence of the spur dike length on current exchange between channel and shoal is analyzed. Results show that when the spur dike length reaches a certain value, the direction of the flow velocity shear front between the channel and shoal will change. The longer the spur dike, the larger the transverse fluctuating velocity at the peak of flood in the channel shoal exchange area, while the transport of the transverse hydrodynamics is obvious in the process of flood. There is an optimum length of spur dike when the shear stress in the channel and the longitudinal velocity in flood and ebb reach the maximum, and the flow velocity will decrease when the spur dike length is smaller or larger than the optimum. For a certain length of spur dike, the larger the channel shoal elevation difference, the larger the peak longitudinal flow velocity in the middle of the navigation channel in flood and ebb. However, the transverse flow velocity will first decrease and then increase. The transverse transportation is obvious when the channel shoal elevation difference increases.     

Shear stress statistics and wall similarity analysis in turbulentboundary layers using a high-resolution 3-D ADVP

Three-dimensional (3-D) quasi-instantaneous acoustic Doppler velocity profiles at the center of uniform, turbulent open-channel flow over smooth and rough beds have been analyzed for the dynamics of coherent structures. The qualitative aspects of simultaneously measured Eulerian velocity and shear stress signatures identify coherent structures in the water column. A cumulant discard method is applied to describe the statistical properties of the covariance terms u'w' along the mean flow and v'w' across the mean flow relative to their time means. Conditional statistics and conditional sampling are used to compare the theoretical and experimental relative covariance contributions from the four quadrants in the longitudinal and transverse planes. The results in the (u', w') plane show the dominance of ejections (quadrant 2; u'<0, w'>0) and sweeps (quadrant 4; u'>0, w'<0). In contrast, the distribution of fractional v'w' events in the transverse plane is quasi-uniform over the four quadrants. Based on these experimentally determined statistical properties of the covariance terms in different flow conditions, a simplified form of the vertical turbulent energy flux in the intermediate flow region is given and the concept of wall similarity in turbulent boundary layers is validated. Since the validity of the wall similarity concept over a wide range of bed roughness has been shown, it is proposed to determine the mean bed friction velocity from the evaluation of the vertical turbulent energy flux     

An experimental study of rip channel flow

A laboratory study of the flow over a bar with a single rip channel has been performed. First, the well-known pattern of a bar circulation cell with a strong offshore-directed current out through the rip channel and a weaker onshore-directed return flow over the bar is documented. Then measurements of the three-dimensional structure of the flow in the area where the rip channel, the bar and the trough meet and well inside the rip channel are presented. These measurements reveal that 3D effects play an important role, and that a depth-integrated viewpoint may not always be sufficient for predicting the flow in the near bed region. Particle-tracking experiments illustrate the near bed flow pattern over the entire area. These demonstrate how the overall trajectory pattern changes as a function of the distance of wave breaking from the bar crest: For some conditions, the rip current is fed from the trough and for other conditions it is fed directly from the bar. Both the 3D measurements and the trajectory tests show the existence of a weaker onshore-directed near-bed drift in the area where the rip current ceases. Finally, in a series of sensitivity tests, measurements of the rip current intensity for different wave climate and water level conditions reveal a strong correlation between the rip current intensity and the wave height (both normalized).     

The principal factors contributing to the flux of salt in a narrow, partially stratified estuary

Observations of the velocity and salinity structure of the Tees estuary were made at eight stations along the estuary axis between Victoria Bridge and the sea during the summer of 1975. The measurements were made on ten separate tidal periods covering neap and spring tides.The data were collected over a period of relatively low freshwater flows and the residual current was found to have a strong dependence on the Stokes drift. At the upstream stations, the residuals were more than an order of magnitude greater than the currents anticipated from the freshwater discharge. Although the mean stratification decreased as the tidal range increased, the vertical circulation was stronger on spring tides than on neaps. Vertical variations in the amplitude and phase of the tidal current results in a current which strengthens the vertical circulation. However, this effect only made a relatively small contribution to the observed vertical circulation.The relative contribution of the individual salt flux terms to the net upstream transport of salt varies along the estuary. As the estuary narrows, the contribution by the oscillatory terms dominates that from the shear in the steady state flow. Of these oscillatory terms, the correlation of velocity and salinity fluctuations plays a key rôle in the salt transport. The depth mean values make a greater contribution than deviations from the depth mean and the flux due to phase variations over depth is smaller than either of these. Since the Stokes drift is compensated by a down-stream steady state flow, it does not contribute to the tidal mean transport of salt.At the seaward end of the estuary, the salt fluxes due to the steady state vertical shear and the convariance of the tidal fluctuations act in a complementary way to counter the seaward transport of salt by the freshwater flow. With the possible exceptions of the wide or narrow reaches of the Tees, the longitudinal fluxes of salt due to transverse variations in velocity, salinity and depth and turbulent fluctuations are of secondary importance as contributors to the estuary salt budget.On both neap and spring tides, the computed total salt transports at the Newport and Victoria bridges did not match the values required for a salt balance with the corresponding freshwater flows. These fluxes were probably the cause of the observed downstream displacement of the tidal mean salinity distribution between neap and spring tides.