海岸破波带内悬沙空间分布试验研究和解析表达式

关于海岸破波带内悬沙浓度水平和垂向分布的研究对于计算海岸输沙率和地形演变具有重要意义。本研究进行了规则波、波群和不规则波三种波浪情况破波带内悬沙浓度的水平和垂向分布的试验测量。试验在大尺度波浪水槽进行,接近实际海岸波况尺度。给出了破波带内多断面悬沙垂向分布的细致测量结果,并以此为基础给出了预报实际海岸破波带内悬沙浓度水平和垂向分布解析表达式,讨论了形成这些分布的物理原因和不同波况、不同破波带区域对分布的影响。     

基于近底原位观测的小尺度海底沙波地形小波分解

浅海海床发育着不同尺度的活动性砂体,在大型活动性砂体上常叠加发育着大量小尺度沙波(纹),分析这些小尺度沙波(纹)有助于揭示活动性砂体的成因机制。但它们的尺度较小,常规分析方法往往将其作为高频噪声滤除,难以对该尺度海底沙波(纹)进行分离量化研究。为了解决这个问题,本文设计并实现了一种基于小波分析的小尺度海底沙波地形分解方法,并以台湾浅滩典型区域的高精度近底原位观测数据为例,实现了小尺度海底沙波地形的分解和定量分析,分解出背景地形、小型沙波和沙波纹(波长小于0.6 m)3种地貌类型。本文提出的小尺度海底沙波地形分解量化方法,可广泛应用于浅海高活动性地貌发育演化和海底边界层沉积动力过程研究,对评估海洋工程的稳定性也具有一定的实用价值。     

Prototype measurements and small-scale model tests of wave overtopping at shallow rubble-mound breakwaters: the Ostia-Rome yacht harbour case

The paper presents the comparison between the results of small-scale model tests and prototype measurements of wave overtopping at a rubble-mound breakwater. The specific structure investigated is the west breakwater of the yacht harbour of Rome at Ostia (Italy) and is characterized by a gentle seaward slope (1/4) and by a long, shallow foreshore. The laboratory tests firstly aimed at carefully reproducing two measured storms in which overtopping occurred and was measured. The tests have been carried out in two independent laboratories, in a wave flume and in a wave basin, hence using a two-dimensional (2-D) and a three-dimensional (3-D) setup. In the 2-D laboratory tests no overtopping occurred during the storm reproductions; in the 3-D case discharges five to ten times smaller than those observed in prototype have been measured. This indicates the existence of model and scale effects. These effects have been discussed on the basis of the results of several parametric tests, which have been carried out in both laboratories, in addition to the storm reproductions, varying wave and water level characteristics. Final comparison of all the performed tests with 86 prototype measurements still suggests the existence of scale and model effects that induce strong underestimation of overtopping discharge at small scale. The scale reproduction of wave breaking on the foreshore, together with the 3-D features of the prototype conditions and the absence of wind stress in the laboratory measurements, have been individuated as the main sources of scale and model effects. The paper also provides a comparison between the data and a largely used formula for wave overtopping discharges in the presence of structures similar to the one at hand. The suitable value of a roughness factor that appears in that formula is investigated and good agreement is found with other recent researches on rubble-mound breakwaters.     

Sheet flow and suspension of sand in oscillatory boundary layers

after revisionTime-dependent measurements of flow velocities and sediment concentrations were conducted in a large oscillating water tunnel. The measurements were aimed at the flow and sediment dynamics in and above an oscillatory boundary layer in plane bed and sheet-flow conditions. Two asymmetric waves and one sinusoidal wave were imposed using quartz sand with D₅₀ = 0.21 mm. A new electro-resistance probe with a large resolving power was developed for the measurement of the large sediment concentrations in the sheet-flow layer. The measurements revealed a three layer transport system consisting of a pick-up/deposition layer, an upper sheet flow layer and a suspension layer.In the asymmetric wave cases the total net transport was directed “onshore” and was mainly concentrated in the thin sheet flow layer (< 0.5 cm) at the bed. A small net sediment flux was directed “offhore” in the upper suspension layer. The measured flow velocities, sediment concentrations and sedimenl fluxes showed a good qualitative agreement with the results of a (numerical) 1DV boundary-layer flow and transport model. Although the model did not describe all the observed processes in the sheet-flow and suspension layer, the computational results showed a reasonable agreement with measured net transport rates in a wide range of asymmetric wave conditions.     

A two-phase flow model for asymmetric sheetflow conditions

A newly developed two-phase flow model was applied to simulate the sediment movement under 2nd-order Stokes wave sheetflow conditions with different sediment sizes and wave periods. As for the distribution of eddy viscosity and sediment diffusion coefficient, the difference between onshore and offshore phases was considered by using an equivalent sinusoidal velocity amplitude for the asymmetric velocity profile. Sophisticated comparisons between laboratory measurements [O'Donoghue, T., Wright, S., 2004b. Flow tunnel measurements of velocities and sand flux in oscillatory sheetflow for well-sorted and graded sands. Coast. Eng., 51 (11–12), 1163–1184.] and the present numerical simulation were performed for sediment concentration, sediment velocity, sand flux and net transport rate. Four existing engineering models, together with the present two-phase flow model, were introduced for net transport rate prediction. Taking both the net sand transport rate magnitude and direction into account, the present process-based two-phase flow model provided the best estimations, which can simulate both the onshore net transport for medium/coarse sand cases and offshore net transport for fine sand cases with the agreement by a factor of 2 for almost all the considered cases.     

Bed load transport on the shoreface by currents and waves

Tide-driven bed load transport is an important portion of the net annual sediment transport rate in many shoreface and shelf environments. However, bed load transport under waves cannot be measured in the field and bed load transport by currents without waves is barely measurable, even in spring tidal conditions. There is, consequently, a strong lack of field data and validated models. The present field site was on the shoreface and inner shelf at 2 to 8.5 km offshore the central Dutch coast (far outside the surfzone), where tidal currents flow parallel to the coast. Bed load transports were carefully measured with a calibrated sampler in spring tidal conditions without waves at a water depth of 13–18 m with fine and medium sands. The near-bed flow was measured over nearly a year and used for integration to annual transport rates. An empirical bed load model was derived, which predicts bed load transports that are a factor of > 5 smaller than predicted by existing models. However, they agree with laboratory data of sand and gravel transport in currents near incipient motion. The damped transport rates may have been caused by cohesion of sediment or turbulence damping due to mud or biological activity. The annual bed load transport rate was calculated using a probability density function (pdf) derived from the near-bed current and orbital velocity data which represented the current and wave climate well when compared to 30 years of data from a nearby wave station. The effect of wave stirring was included in the transport calculations. The net bed load transport rate is a few m²/year. This is much less than predicted in an earlier model study, which is partly due to different bed load models but also due to the difference in velocity pdf. The annual transport rate is very sensitive to the probability of the largest current velocities.     

The morphodynamic modelling of tidal sand waves on the shoreface

An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves).     

Experimental Studies of Sound Attenuation in Seabed Sediments on Column Sample Length Scale

Seabed sediment microstructure has an influence on its acousto-physical properties, and the properties in a length of the sediment column reflect an aspect of the macroscopic behavior of the microstructure. An original measurement method of the sound attenuation within small distance cross sections in a sediment column, and the corresponding approach in data processing to attain an attenuation factor are detailed in the paper. This method was used to measure the compressional wave in series of points with a small distance in the sediment column, and it is shown that exponential attenuation is a type of compressional wave attenuation model for a sediment column in its full length. It indicates that there are various models of compressional wave attenuation in seabed sediments in the South China Sea after comparison of data from other literature. The method of measuring sound attenuation satisfies the sampling space interval in the acoustical forward and inverse problems in seabed sediments, and the original method provides a new approach for finding out sound attenuation mechanism in seabed sediments on small length scale.     

海南岛近海海域7个沉积岩芯的现代沉积速率及其分布特征

利用多道α能谱仪,对2005年8～9月在海南岛近海采集的7个沉积岩芯进行了210Pb的沉积速率测定,探讨了海南岛近海陆架上现代沉积速率的区域性分布特征,结果表明:位于港湾内的B1168站位由于沉积物供应充足,有最高的沉积速率,达2.9 cm/a;位于河口海湾附近且受沿岸流影响的B289站位,有很高的沉积速率,可达1.6 cm/a,沉积环境较稳定;位于西南海底沙脊区北缘且靠近昌化江河口的B97、B135、B10站位也有较高沉积速率,分别达到1.0、0.89和0.47 cm/a,在表层都出现了210Pb放射性活度倒置的现象,表明所处区域有较强混合作用;处于西南外陆架的C4站位受北部湾环流影响,沉积速率为0.6 cm/a;位于东部外陆架的B377站位处于上升流区,沉积速率较低,为0.21 cm/a.可见,海南岛近海陆架上的现代沉积速率存在着明显的区域分布:在物质来源丰富的沿岸流作用区和河口区附近,现代沉积速率很高;在陆架环流沉积作用区,现代沉积速率也较高;在水深较大的外陆架上,由于沉积物供应相对匮乏,沉积速率一般较低;在近岸潮流沙脊区,由于水动力很强,无法形成现代细粒沉积.同时,在陆架上,沉积速率有随着水深的增加而降低的趋势.由此可见,海南岛近海海域的沉积速率与该区的物质供应、水动力条件和海底地形等因素有密切关系.     

沙质海岸沿岸输沙率计算方法研究进展

准确预测波浪作用下沿岸输沙率是沙质海岸研究领域的重要科学问题。根据数十年来国内外沿岸输沙率公式的研究进展,按研究方法对各项成果进行分类,并兼顾时间逻辑,回顾了各研究方法的发展历程及其代表性成果。对各项成果的理论基础、考虑因素、资料来源等方面进行了探讨,并采用现场原型沙、室内原型沙和室内轻质沙等实测资料,对国内外常用公式的预测准确性进行了检验。结果表明,孙林云公式与各项实测资料的吻合程度最高,在众多沿岸输沙率公式中具有明显的先进性。在此基础上,对未来可进一步深化研究的方向作出了展望。     

海南岛崖州湾表层沉积物空间分布特征及其受控机制

基于崖州湾海域141个表层沉积物粒度分析数据,研究表层沉积物的粒级组分、粒度参数及其沉积动力环境特征。结果表明,研究区底质类型主要有泥质砂质砾、砾质泥质砂、砂、粉砂质砂、砂质粉砂和粉砂6种,砂质粉砂分布最为广泛;粒径总体趋势表现为自北向南由细变粗再变细的NEE条带状分布特征,分选系数总体偏高,反映了该区复杂的物源和水动力条件。运用Flemming三角图式,结合粒度象、研究区物源、水动力条件及地形特征,将研究区划分为3个沉积环境:近岸主要受控于波浪掀沙和搬运作用,粒径较细,表现为波控沉积特征;中部主要受控于径流、波浪和潮流共同作用,粒径粗,分选差,表现为河口沉积特征;南部主要受控于潮流输沙作用,波浪作用减弱,粒径细,分选相对较好,表现为相对低能的沉积环境。沉积物输移趋势分析显示研究区中西部为一沉积物汇聚中心,近岸侵蚀物质、宁远河输运物质以及外海潮流输运物质均向该处运移。     

Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.     

Swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach

New experimental laboratory data are presented on swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach, approximating the conditions at the crest of a beach berm or inter-tidal ridge-runnel. The experiments provide a measure of the uprush sediment transport rate in the swash zone that is unaffected by the difficulties inherent in deploying instrumentation or sediment trapping techniques at laboratory scale. Overtopping flow volumes are compared with an analytical solution for swash flows as well as a simple numerical model, both of which are restricted to individual swash events. The analytical solution underestimates the overtopping volume by an order of magnitude while the model provides good overall agreement with the data and the reason for this difference is discussed. Modelled flow velocities are input to simple sediment transport formulae appropriate to the swash zone in order to predict the overwash sediment transport rates. Calculations performed with traditional expressions for the wave friction factor tend to underestimate the measured transport. Additional sediment transport calculations using standard total load equations are used to derive an optimum constant wave friction factor of f_w = 0.024. This is in good agreement with a broad range of published field and laboratory data. However, the influence of long waves and irregular wave run-up on the overtopping and overwash remains to be assessed. The good agreement between modelled and measured sediment transport rates suggests that the model provides accurate predictions of the uprush sediment transport rates in the swash zone, which has application in predicting the growth and height of beach berms.     

Sublethal effects of oiled sediment on the sand worm, Nereis (neanthes) virens: Induced changes in burrowing and emergence

The burrowing and emergence behavior of sand worms, Nereis (Neanthes) virens Sars, in sediment contaminated with sublethal concentrations of Prudhoe Bay crude oil ranging from 74 to 5222 ppm, was studied in the laboratory. Initial burrowing in oiled sediment did not differ from that observed in unoiled sediment. Emergence of exposed worms was related to the oil concentration and the extent of weathering of oiled sediment. Sand worms buried in unoiled sediment did not emerge. Worms dug from oiled sediment after 12 hours' exposure and placed on unoiled sediment were impaired, resulting in a significant increase in time to burrow. However, after 12h, they recovered and burrowed at normal rates. Worms held in oiled sediment for 96 h also recovered. Possible causes for recovery are discussed. Results suggest that oil-induced aberrations may increase vulnerability to predation.     

Short-term (≤2 yrs) estuarine mudflat and saltmarsh sedimentation: High-resolution data from ultrasonic altimetery, rod surface-elevation table, and filter traps

Rates of short-term (up to 2 years) bed elevation change and sedimentation from mudflats to salt marshes were measured in a rapidly infilling macrotidal estuary using an original combination of three high-resolution techniques: an ultrasonic altimeter, the Rod Surface-Elevation Table (RSET) method, and filter traps. The Authie estuary is located on a straight, sand-rich coast and is undergoing rapid infill under the influence of flood-dominant tides reinforced by wave action. The estuarine sediment suite consists of both mud and sand derived from the sea, of sand derived from storm wave erosion of dunes lining the north bank of the estuary, and, to a much smaller extent, of mud from the river catchment. Bed elevation change and sedimentation rates show an expected increase with the duration of tidal flooding (hydroperiod) in both space and time. The estuarine bed sediment suite changes from sandy at the mouth to muddy within the low-energy inner estuary, where mudflats are rapidly accreting, paving the way for the formation of increasingly denser and mature salt marshes from the high-sedimentation pioneer zone to the upper marsh where annual sedimentation is very low. Recorded variability in rates of bed elevation change and sedimentation reflect the influence of estuarine macro-scale and local sediment transport and depositional processes in a macrotidal context dominated by high inputs of allochthonous sediments.     

漳州港码头岸线规划潮流及泥沙问题研究

本文在实测资料的基础上，全面分析了漳州港海域的波浪要素，潮流动力，泥沙运移特性和水深演变等，计算了漳州港码头工程前后潮流分布场，并在此基础上预报了漳州港起步工程的３．５万吨级码头泊位、港池、航道的泥沙冲淤幅度。结果表明，漳州港海域的水深维护主要与上游纳潮面积大小有关，海域潮差大，潮流强，水深大，波浪小，海域泥沙主要来源于上游的九龙江，年输沙量为２７７万ｔ，海域年平均含沙量也不大，港池航道水深可由水流动力来维持、泊位和淤积很小，这些情况表明，漳州港屿仔尾海区建港的自然条件是优越的。     

Initiation of sand transport over coarse beds in tidal entrances

A tidal entrance often acts as a source or a sink for sand in the littoral zone. At many entrances in biologically productive regions the bed in the vicinity of the throat section (minimum flow area) is composed of sediment containing coarse material including large shells, with sand occurring in the interstitial regions between the shell-defined roughness elements. A stochastic relationship giving the critical bed shear stress for the initiation of sand transport under these conditions is applied to hydraulic and sedimentary data obtained from two entrances in Florida. The results agree well with the critical bed shear stresses derived from data based on the observation of sand movement at the bed. The entrainment function based on observations is found to be approximately three times the value obtained from Shields' criterion. A practical implication is that the use of Shields' criterion in the computation of the rate of sand transport will in general overpredict the rate through the entrance.     

Diffusion reduction in an arbitrary scale third generation wind wave model

The numerical schemes for the geographic propagation of random, short-crested, wind-generated waves in third-generation wave models are either unconditionally stable or only conditionally stable. Having an unconditionally stable scheme gives greater freedom in choosing the time step (for given space steps). The third-generation wave model SWAN (“Simulated WAves Nearshore”, Booij et al., 1999) has been implemented with this type of scheme. This model uses a first order, upwind, implicit numerical scheme for geographic propagation. The scheme can be employed for both stationary (typically small scale) and nonstationary (i.e. time-stepping) computations. Though robust, this first order scheme is very diffusive. This degrades the accuracy of the model in a number of situations, including most model applications at larger scales. The authors reduce the diffusiveness of the model by replacing the existing numerical scheme with two alternative higher order schemes, a scheme that is intended for stationary, small-scale computations, and a scheme that is most appropriate for nonstationary computations. Examples representative of both large-scale and small-scale applications are presented. The alternative schemes are shown to be much less diffusive than the original scheme while retaining the implicit character of the particular SWAN set-up. The additional computational burden of the stationary alternative scheme is negligible, and the expense of the nonstationary alternative scheme is comparable to those used by other third generation wave models. To further accommodate large-scale applications of SWAN, the model is reformulated in terms of spherical coordinates rather than the original Cartesian coordinates. Thus the modified model can calculate wave energy propagation accurately and efficiently at any scale varying from laboratory dimensions (spatial scale O(10 m) with resolution O(0.1 m)), to near-shore coastal dimension (spatial scale O(10 km) with resolution O(100 m)) to oceanic dimensions (spatial scale O(10 000 km) with resolution O(100 km).