Hydrodynamic constraints and storm wave characteristics on a sub‐horizontal shore platform

Few studies of wave processes on shore platforms have addressed the hydrodynamic thresholds that control wave transformation and energy dissipation, especially under storm conditions. We present results of a field experiment conducted during a storm on a sub‐horizontal shore platform on the east coast of Auckland, New Zealand. Small (<0.5 m) locally generated waves typically occur at the field site, whereas during the experiment the offshore wave height reached 2.3 m. Our results illustrate the important control that platform morphology has on wave characteristics. At the seaward edge of the platform a scarp abruptly descends beneath low tide level. Wave height immediately seaward of the platform was controlled by the incident conditions, but near the cliff toe wave height on the platform was independent of incident conditions. Results show that a depth threshold at the seaward platform edge > 2.5 times the gravity wave height (0.05–0.33 Hz) is necessary for waves to propagate onto the platform without breaking. On the platform surface the wave height is a direct function of water depth, with limiting maximum wave height to water depth ratios of 0.55 and 0.78 at the centre of the platform and cliff toe, respectively. A relative ‘platform edge submergence’ (water depth/water height ratio) threshold of 1.1 is identified, below which infragravity (<0.05 Hz) wave energy dominates the platform energy spectra, and above which gravity waves are dominant. Infragravity wave height transformation across the platform is governed by the relative platform edge submergence. Finally, the paper describes the first observations of wave setup on a shore platform. During the peak of the storm, wave setup on the platform at low tide (0.21 m) is consistent with measurements from planar sandy beaches, but at higher tidal stages the ratio between incident wave height and maximum setup was lower than expected. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Field observations of infragravity waves and their behaviour on rock shore platforms

Infragravity wave (IGW) transformation was quantified from field measurements on two shore platforms on New Zealand's east coast, making this the first study to describe the presence, characteristics and behaviour of IGWs on rock platform coasts. Data was collected using a cross‐shore array of pressure transducers during a 22 hour experiment on Oraka shore platform and a 36 hour experiment at Rothesay Bay shore platform. A low pass Fourier filter was used to remove gravity wave frequency oscillations, allowing separate analysis of IGWs and the full wave spectrum. Offshore IGW heights were measured to be 7 cm (Oraka) and 9 cm (Rothesay Bay), which were 21% (Oraka) and 7.5% (Rothesay Bay) the height of incident wave height. At the cliff toe, significant IGW height averaged 15 cm at Oraka and 13 cm at Rothesay Bay. This increase in IGW height over the platform during both experiments is attributed to shoaling of 40 to 55% over the last 50–60 m before the cliff toe, respectively. Shoaling across the platform was quantified as the change in IGW height from the platform edge to cliff toe, resulting in a maximum increase of 1·88 and 2·63 on Rothesay Bay and Oraka platforms. IGW height at the cliff toe showed a strong correlation with incident wave height. The proportional increase in IGW height shows a strong correlation to water level on each platform. The rate of shoaling of long period waves on the shallow, horizontal platforms increased at higher water levels resulting in a super elevation in water level at the cliff toe during high tide. Greater IGW shoaling was also observed on the wider (Oraka) shore platform. Results from this study show the first measurements of IGWs on shore platforms and identify long wave motion a significant process in a morphodynamic understanding of rock coast. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Sea‐cliff retreat and shore platform widening: steady‐state equilibrium?

We challenge the notion of steady‐state equilibrium in the context of progressive cliff retreat on micro‐tidal coasts. Ocean waves break at or close to the abrupt seaward edge of near‐horizontal shore platforms and then rapidly lose height due to turbulence and friction. Conceptual models assume that wave height decays exponentially with distance from the platform edge, and that the platform edge does not erode under stable sea‐level. These assumptions combine to a steady‐state view of Holocene cliff retreat. We argue that this model is not generally applicable. Recent data show that: (1) exponential decay in wave height is not the most appropriate conceptual model of wave decay; (2) by solely considering wave energy at gravity wave frequencies the steady‐state model neglects a possible formative role for infragravity waves. Here we draw attention to possible mechanisms through which infragravity waves may drive cliff retreat over much greater distances (and longer timescales) than imaginable under the established conceptual model. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Observations of coastal cliff base waves,sand levels,and cliff top shaking

Concurrent observations of waves at the base of a southern California coastal cliff and seismic cliff motion were used to explore wave–cliff interaction and test proxies for wave forcing on coastal cliffs. Time series of waves and sand levels at the cliff base were extracted from pressure sensor observations programmatically and used to compute various wave impact metrics (e.g. significant cliff base wave height). Wave–cliff interaction was controlled by tide, incident waves, and beach sand levels, and varied from low tides with no wave–cliff impacts, to high tides with continuous wave–cliff interaction. Observed cliff base wave heights differed from standard Normal and Rayleigh distributions. Cliff base wave spectra levels were elevated at sea swell and infragravity frequencies. Coastal cliff top response to wave impacts was characterized using microseismic shaking in a frequency band (20–45 Hz) sensitive to wave breaking and cliff impacts. Response in the 20–45 Hz band was well correlated with wave–cliff impact metrics including cliff base significant wave height and hourly maximum water depth at the cliff base (r² = 0.75). With site‐specific calibration relating wave impacts and shaking, and acceptable anthropogenic (traffic) noise levels, cliff top seismic observations are a viable proxy for cliff base wave conditions. The methods presented here are applicable to other coastal settings and can provide coastal managers with real time coastal conditions. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Modelling the effect of waves,weathering and beach development on shore platform development

A mathematical model was used to study shore platform development. Mechanical wave erosion was dependent on such variables as tidal range, wave height and period, breaker height and depth, breaker type, surf zone width and bottom roughness, submarine gradient, rock resistance and the elevational frequency of wave action within the intertidal zone. Also included were the effects of sand and pebble accumulation, cliff height and debris mobility, and downwearing associated with tidal wetting and drying. The occurrence, location and thickness of beaches often depended on initially quite minor variations in platform morphology, but owing to their abrasive or protective effect on underlying rock surfaces, they were able to produce marked differences in platform morphology. Generalizations are difficult, but the model suggests that platform gradient increases with tidal range. Platform width also increases with tidal range with slow downwearing but it decreases with fast downwearing. Platform gradient decreases and width increases with wave energy, and decreasing rock resistance and platform roughness. With low tidal range, platform gradient is generally lower and platform width greater with beaches of fine sand than with gravel, but the relationship is more variable with a high tidal range. Platform width increases and platform gradient decreases with the rate of downwearing on bare surfaces, particularly in low tidal range environments, but the pattern is less clear on beach‐covered platforms. Platforms with large amounts of beach sediment tend to be narrower and steeper than bare platform surfaces. Platform gradient increases and platform width decreases with increasing cliff height and with decreasing cliff debris mobility. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Modelling the relative dominance of wave erosion and weathering processes in shore platform development in micro‐ to mega‐tidal settings

In this paper we use a numerical model to explore the relative dominance of two main processes in shore platform development: wave erosion; weathering due to wetting and drying. The modelling approach differs from previous work in several aspects, including: the way that it accounts for weathering arising from gradual surficial intertidal rock degradation; subtidal profile shape development; and the consideration of a broad erosion parameter space in which, at either end of the erosion spectrum, shore platform profiles are produced by waves or weathering alone. Results show that in micro‐tidal settings, wave erosion dominates the evolution of (i) shore platforms that become largely subtidal and (ii) sub‐horizontal shore platforms that have a receding seaward edge. Weathering processes dominate the evolution of sub‐horizontal shore platforms with a stable seaward edge. In contrast, sloping shore platforms in mega‐tidal settings are produced across the full range of the process‐dominance spectrum depending on the how the erosional efficacy of wave erosion and weathering are parameterized. Morphological feedbacks control the process‐dominance. In small tidal environments wave processes are strongly controlled by the presence/absence of an abrupt seaward edge, but this influence is much smaller in large tidal environments due to larger water depths particularly at high tides. In large tidal environments, similar shore platform profile geometries can be produced by either wave‐dominant or weathering‐dominant process regimes. Equifinality in shore platform development has been noted in other studies, but mainly in the context of smaller‐scale (centimetre to metre) erosion features. Here we draw attention to geomorphic equifinality at the scale of the shore platform itself. Progress requires a greater understanding of the actual mechanics of the process regimes operating on shore platforms. However, this paper makes a substantial contribution to the debate by identifying the physical conditions that allow clear statements about process dominance. © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Defining shore platform boundaries using airborne laser scan data: a preliminary investigation

As an initial evaluation of the potential of digital elevation models (DEMs) and geographic information systems (GISs) for geomorphic characterization of rocky shorelines, airborne laser scan (ALS) data have been used to characterize shore platforms around Shag Point, southeastern New Zealand. The platforms have been characterized using field‐based techniques in previously published research, and therefore offer an ideal site for evaluation purposes. The main challenge involved the delineation of the shore platform area in terms of landward and seaward extents. The cliff top and landward edge of the shore platform was readily mapped, whereas the seaward edge of platforms was mapped with lesser precision due to difficulties associated with tidal inundation and the interference of wave action and surface water. In the central region of the study area (～0·1 km²) higher platform elevations and dense point cloud data enabled the generation of a high‐resolution (1 m) DEM. In analysing the DEM, ALS offered an advantage over the previous field survey in respect of the ability to assess continuous topography in plan‐view. The extent and form of two distinctive erosional surfaces is clearly apparent and was revealed through classifications based on slope and elevation. The spatial continuity of the upper surface implies that, in addition to the role of rock structure described in previous work, sea level and wave exposure may have been important factors in the generation and preservation of platform morphology at Shag Point. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Thresholds for morphological changes on an exposed sandy beach as a function of wave height

A sandy beach in the south of Portugal (Faro beach, Ria Formosa) was surveyed from the dune crest seaward to 15 m depth 20 times over a period of 26 months. Wave time‐series between surveys were analysed to obtain relationships between wave height and vertical profile variations and to define wave thresholds for important morphological changes. Results show that the active zone of the profile lies between 5 m above and 10·4 m below mean sea level, and that there are clear cross‐shore differences in the vertical variability of the profile. Based on the pattern of vertical variability, the profile was divided into four cross‐shore sectors: A (berm), 20–80 m from the profile origin; B (sub‐tidal terrace), 80–170 m; C (long‐shore bar), 170–360 m; and D, 360–700 m. The relationship between the modulus of the maximum vertical change in each sector and the 99th percentile of significant wave height between surveys was always significant. Calculated thresholds for significant wave height generating important morphological changes were 2·3 m in sector A, 3·2 m in sectors B and C, and 4·1 m in sector D. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Links between wave forcing,offshore islands and a macro‐tidal headland‐bound bay beach

Profiles were analysed in conjunction with wave climate to assess offshore island influences on an embayed beach at Tenby, Wales. Time series analyses showed medium and short‐term beach oscillation, with volume exchanges between zones lagging by up to six months. Dominant southerly and southwesterly waves caused sub and low tidal longshore drift from south towards north, while less frequent southeasterly waves generated counter drift. Modelled inshore breaking waves had less energy than offshore ones and the former behaved differently between the low and high tidal zones (spring tidal range of 7 · 5 m). Variations in wave direction from directly behind the islands resulted in reduced wave heights and statistical analyses agreed with wave model results. These were correlated to morphological change and it was concluded that offshore islands change wave dynamics and modify the morphology of embayed beaches in their lee. Consequently, this work provides significant new insights into offshore island influences, shoreline behaviour and especially tidal setting Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Stacks and notches at Hopewell Rocks,New Brunswick,Canada

Spectacular rock formations have developed in coarse, poorly sorted conglomerates and arkosic sandstones at Hopewell Rocks in the Bay of Fundy, which has the largest tidal range in the world. The average gradient of the shore platform is 3.2°, although it varies because of slight differences in rock hardness. Schmidt Rock Test Hammer measurements show that the rock is generally no more resistant in 16 stacks and in one stack-arch than in the adjacent platform and cliff. Most stacks, arch-tunnels and caves in this area result from dissection of the rock mass along prominent, well-spaced joint planes. Old photographs suggest that the stacks at Hopewell Rocks may have developed in the last 100 to 250 years. Notches are ubiquitous at the cliff foot, and they are responsible for the characteristic mushroom-shaped appearance of the stacks. Although there is no consistent relationship between the depth of notches on the seaward and landward sides of the stacks, the notches are at higher elevations on the seaward side. The deepest part of most notches is a little below the mean high tidal level, although several are up to 1 or 2 m below it, especially on the landward side of stacks. Stack morphology and notch depth change in a fairly predictable manner through time, as the stacks become increasingly isolated from the cliff. © 1998 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The role of beach morphology on coastal cliff erosion under extreme waves

Erosion of hard‐rock coastal cliffs is understood to be caused by a combination of both marine and sub‐aerial processes. Beach morphology, tidal elevation and significant wave heights, especially under extreme storm conditions, can lead to variability in wave energy flux to the cliff‐toe. Wave and water level measurements in the nearshore under energetic conditions are difficult to obtain and in situ observations are rare. Here we use monthly cliff‐face volume changes detected using terrestrial laser scanning alongside beach morphological changes and modelled nearshore hydrodynamics to examine how exposed cliffs respond to changes in extreme wave conditions and beach morphology. The measurements cover the North Atlantic storms of 2013 to 2014 and consider two exposed stretches of coastline (Porthleven and Godrevy, UK) with contrasting beach morphology fronting the cliffs; a flat dissipative sandy beach at Godrevy and a steep reflective gravel beach at Porthleven. Beach slope and the elevation of the beach–cliff junction were found to influence the frequency of cliff inundation and the power of wave–cliff impacts. Numerical modelling (XBeach‐G) showed that under highly energetic wave conditions, i.e. those that occurred in the North Atlantic during winter 2013–2014, with H_s = 5.5 m (dissipative site) and 8 m (reflective site), the combination of greater wave height and steeper beach at the reflective site led to amplified wave run‐up, subjecting these cliffs to waves over four times as powerful as those impacting the cliffs at the dissipative site (39 kWm^‐1 compared with 9 kWm^‐1). This study highlighted the sensitivity of cliff erosion to extreme wave conditions, where the majority (over 90% of the annual value) of cliff‐face erosion ensued during the winter. The significance of these short‐term erosion rates in the context of long‐term retreat illustrates the importance of incorporating short‐term beach and wave dynamics into geomorphological studies of coastal cliff change. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.     

Lithological control on the elevation of shore platforms in a microtidal setting

The shore platforms on Shag Point, southern New Zealand, are quasi‐horizontal surfaces and are developed between supratidal and low water spring levels. A range of morphologies occur, with more exposed platforms having a distinct low‐tide cliff, in contrast to low‐tide surfaces where the seaward edge is buried beneath rubble and macro‐algal growth. The platforms range in width from 20 to 80 m and are eroded into Late Cretaceous/Early Tertiary fine marine sandstones and mudstones. Shore platforms have formed in two principal lithological units: a homogeneous unit that is characterized by few discontinuities, and a fractured unit with joints spaced about 0·5 m apart. Rock hardness is low in both units (L‐type Schmidt hammer rebound values of 31 ± 4), and there is little systematic variation in values between the two units in which platforms have developed. Case‐hardened concretions within the sandstone are significantly harder than surrounding rock and cause local relief of metre scale as the spherical diagenetic features are eroded from the bedrock. They do not, however, appear to affect broad‐scale platform geometry. Joints within the bedrock are a primary control on platform elevation. Platforms formed in jointed rock occur at the lower portion of the intertidal zone, in contrast to platforms formed in unjointed bedrock, in which horizontal surfaces occur at or above mean high water spring tide level. Rock structure, therefore, appears to be the primary determinant factor of platform geometry at Shag Point. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Dynamics of multiple intertidal bars over semi‐diurnal and lunar tidal cycles,North Lincolnshire,England

Multiple intertidal bars are common features of wave‐dominated sandy beaches, yet their short‐term (<1 month) and small‐scale (<1 km) morphology and dynamics remain poorly understood. This study describes the morphodynamics of multiple intertidal bars in North Lincolnshire, England, during single and lunar tidal cycles under two contrasting conditions – first when significant wave height was <0·5 m and second when significant wave height frequently exceeded 1 m. The relative importance of swash, surf and shoaling processes in determining morphological change was examined using detailed field observations and a numerical model. The beach featured four intertidal bars and both cross‐shore and longshore bar morphology evolved during the field investigation, particularly under medium to high wave‐energy conditions. Numerical modelling suggests shoaling processes are most common on the seaward two bars under calm wave conditions (H_s < 0·5 m) and that surf zone processes become more common during neap tides and under more energetic (H_s < 0·5 m) conditions. Surf processes dominate the inner two bars, though swash influence increases in a landward direction. The numerical modelling results combined with low tide survey data and high‐resolution morphological measurements strongly suggest changes in the intertidal bar morphology are accomplished by surf zone processes rather than by shoaling wave or swash processes. This is because shoaling waves do not induce significant sediment transport to have any morphological effect, whereas swash action generally does not have enough scope to act as the swash zone is much narrower than the surf zone. It was found, however, that the absolute rate of morphological change under swash action and surfzone processes are of similar magnitudes and that swash action may induce a significant amount of local morphological change when the high tide mark is located on the upper bar, making this process important for bar morphodynamics. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Observations and conceptual modelling of morphological coupling in a double sandbar system

Nearshore sandbars, located in <10 m water depth, can contain remarkably periodic alongshore undulations in both cross‐shore position and depth. In a double sandbar system, the alongshore spacing of these morphological patterns in the inner sandbar may be identical to those in the outer sandbar. Although this morphological coupling has been observed previously, its frequency and predominance remain unclear. In this paper, we use a 9.3‐year dataset of daily low‐tide time exposure images from the double‐barred beach at Surfers Paradise (Gold Coast, Australia) to analyse the temporal and spatial characteristics of morphological coupling within a double sandbar system. We distinguish five types of morphological coupling between the inner and outer sandbars, of which four coincide with a downstate progression of the outer bar. Coupling is either in‐phase (with a landward perturbation of the inner bar facing an outer‐bar horn) or out‐of‐phase (with a seaward perturbation of the inner bar facing an outer‐bar horn), where the coupled inner‐bar features either consist of rip channels or, predominantly, perturbations of the low‐tide terrace. Cross‐correlation of the image‐derived inner‐ and outer‐bar patterns shows coupling to be a common phenomenon in the double sandbar system studied here, with coupling in 40% of the observations. In contrast to previous observations of sandbar–shoreline coupling at single‐barred beaches, in‐phase coupling (85% of all coupled bar patterns) predominates over out‐of‐phase coupling (15%). Based on our observations and bathymetries assimilated from the images for a restricted set of coupling events, we hypothesize that the angle of offshore wave incidence, wave height and depth variations along the outer sandbar determine the type of flow pattern (cell circulations versus meandering currents) above the inner bar and hence steer the type of coupling. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Short‐term intertidal bar mobility on a ridge‐and‐runnel beach,Merlimont, northern France

Digital elevation models and topographic pro?les of a beach with intertidal bar and trough (ridge‐and‐runnel) morphology in Merlimont, northern France, were analysed in order to assess patterns of cross‐shore and longshore intertidal bar mobility. The beach exhibited a pronounced dual bar–trough system that showed cross‐shore stationarity. The bars and troughs were, however, characterized by signi?cant longshore advection of sand under the in?uence of suspension by waves and transport by strong tide‐ and wind‐driven longshore currents. Pro?le changes were due in part to the longshore migration of medium‐sized bedforms. The potential for cross‐shore bar migration appears to be mitigated by the large size of the two bars relative to incident wave energy, which is modulated by high vertical tidal excursion rates on this beach due to the large tidal range (mean spring tidal range = 8·3 m). Cross‐shore bar migration is also probably hindered by the well‐entrenched troughs which are maintained by channelled high‐energy intertidal ?ows generated by swash bores and by tidal discharge and drainage. The longshore migration of intertidal bars affecting Merlimont beach is embedded in a regional coastal sand transport pathway involving tidal and wind‐forced northward residual ?ows affecting the rectilinear northern French coast in the eastern English Channel. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Erosion and accretion processes in a muddy dissipative coast,the Chao Phraya River delta,Thailand

Seasonal variation in seabed elevation in the muddy intertidal zone of the Chao Phraya River delta, an area of serious coastal erosion for 40 years, was assessed using information on waves and tides predicted by numerical simulations. The study area is under the influence of the Southeast Asian monsoon climate and lies in the innermost part of a sheltered gulf, across which a low‐gradient slope has developed. Observations, aimed at evaluating the effectiveness of a prototype breakwater on mitigating coastal erosion, indicated that the seasonal variation in the seabed elevation, typically about 30 cm, was caused primarily by seasonal changes in wave direction and height. The breakwater seems to have contributed to a net rise in the seabed level at sites behind the structure. Seabed erosion was most apparent during the northeast monsoon, when waves are weak. Erosion under this low wave energy state was attributed to the combined effect of wave breaking and the low tidal level. A difference in the observed seabed accretion rate between the transitional intermonsoon period and the succeeding southwest monsoon period was attributed to the direction of the wave energy flux; offshore sediments seem to have been supplied efficiently to the study area by waves during the transitional period. Another potential cause of seabed erosion and accretion during the wet southwest monsoon season was the discharge of water and sediments from local canals associated with intense tropical rainfall; this discharge seems to be linked to land use in the coastal area. The results of this study show the importance of monitoring across‐shore sediment transport for better understanding of coastal erosion processes. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Tides off‐shore: Transition from California coastal to deep‐sea waters‡

Abstract

Tidal pressures and currents were measured with self‐contained capsules dropped to the sea floor for one month at distances of 175, 190, and 500 nautical miles from San Diego. These observations, together with a one‐week bottom pressure record by Filloux at 750 n miles, and three half‐week bottom current records by Isaacs et al, at intermediary distances, were analyzed for tidal components by cross‐correlation with a noise‐free reference time series. (For short records this method has some merit over classical tide analysis.) It was found that the tide decays seaward to e^‐1 times the coastal amplitude over a distance of order 1000 km for the semidiurnal species, slower for the diurnal species. Tidal currents turn counterclockwise, and are polarized with maximum flow parrallel to shore in the direction of tidal propagation (320°T) at local high tide. The current amplitude is roughly 2 cm/sec for the semidiurnal component, 1 cm/sec for the diurnal component. Superimposed baroclinic tidal currents lead to poor signal: noise ratios (between 1:1 and 10:1) for the barotropic currents. In contrast, the ratio is typically 1000:1 for the bottom pressures and generally exceeds that for coastal tide stations of comparable duration. Published I.H.B. tidal constants for exposed California coastal stations indicate “upshore” (towards 320°T) propagation at 140 m/sec for semidiurnal tides. 214 m/sec for diurnal tides.

To interpret these diverse observations, we have computed the dispersion laws for all possible rotationally‐gravitationally trapped waves against a straight coast with shelf. Trapped solutions are conveniently portrayed in terms of a parameter μ such that ? = sin μ = iu/v and f = ‐ cos μ = η/v define the ellipticity and impedance of the wave motion, η, u and v being off‐shelf dimensionless elevation, normal‐to‐shore and longshore components of velocity, respectively. We then attempt to fit the observations by a superposition of the possible wave classes, all of the same tidal frequency: (a) a free Kelvin‐like edge wave with small μ (mostly trapped by rotation, but somewhat slowed by the shelf); (6) a free Poincare‐like leaky wave; and (c) a forced wave (the distortion of the sea bottom by the tide producing forces plays a significant role). The mod el can account for the main features of the observed tidal heights, and gives relative amplitudes at the coast of 54:16:4 cm for components a:b:c in the case of the semidiurnal tides, 21:24:9 cm for the diurnal tides. The results place a semidiurnal amphidrome about midway between San Diego and Hawaii. Tidal currents are not well fitted by the model, and there are problems associated with the separation of barotropic and baroclinic modes, and with the benthic boundary layer. Coastal energy dissipation is small in the sea under investigation, but a “ capacitive “ phase delay appears to be associated with Northern California harbors and inland waters.     

Wave impacts on coastal cliffs: Do bigger waves drive greater ground motion?

Coastal cliff erosion is caused by a combination of marine forcing and sub-aerial processes, but linking cliff erosion to the environmental drivers remains challenging. One key component of these drivers is energy transfer from wave–cliff interaction. The aim of this study is to directly observe cliff ground motion in response to wave impacts at an individual wave scale. Measurements are described from two coastal cliff sites: a 45-minute pilot study in southern California, USA and a 30-day deployment in Taranaki, New Zealand. Seismometers, pressure sensors and video are used to compare cliff-top ground motions with water depth, significant wave height (H_s) and wave impact types to examine cliff ground motion response. Analyses of the dataset demonstrate that individual impact events can be discriminated as discrete events in the seismic signal. Hourly mean ground motion increases with incident H_s, but the largest hourly peak ground motions occurred across a broad range of incident H_s (0.9–3.7 m), including during relatively calm conditions. Mean hourly metrics therefore smooth the short-term dynamics of wave–cliff interaction; hence, to fully assess wave impact energy transfer to cliffs, it is important also to consider peak ground motion. Video analyses showed that the dominant control on peak ground motion magnitude was wave impact type rather than incident H_s. Wave–cliff impacts where breaking occurs directly onto the cliff face consistently produced greater ground motion compared to broken or unbroken wave impacts: breaking, broken and unbroken impacts averaged peak ground motion of 287, 59 and 38 μm s⁻¹, respectively. The results illustrate a novel link between wave impact forcing and cliff ground motion response using individual wave field measurements, and highlight the influence of wave impact type on peak energy transfer to coastal cliffs. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.