STUDY ON METHOD OF NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF NONLINEAR RANDOM WAVES

This new method can simulate the nonlinear random wavcs processes by computer if the higherorder moments of the probability distribution of the sea surface elevation reflecting the nonlinearity ofthe sea wave are given. Compared with other methods, this method has greater accuracy andflexibility, wider application and faster simulation. Statistical analysis of the sea surface elevationdistribution of the simulated wave process showed obviously the Gram-Charlier series can be used to depictthe distribution of the sea surface elevation.     

Distribution of the nonlinear random ocean wave period

Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution, and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases. The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai (37°27.6′ N, 122°15.1′ E), China, are used to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different spectral widths (ν=0.3−0.5) is within the range of 0.968 6 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins (1975) and Sun (1988) distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory.     

基于最小二乘支持向量机的组合模型在区域似大地水准面拟合中的应用

针对最小二乘支持向量机（least squares support vector machine,LSSVM）在区域似大地水准面拟合过程中存在较大模型误差的问题,构建LSSVM-Shepard GPS高程异常转换组合模型。采用LSSVM拟合高程异常中的中长波项,利用Shepard插值模型来泛化去除中长波项的残余项。结合平原地区和高原山区工程实例,分别采用二次曲面模型、LSSVM、Shepard插值模型、二次曲面-Shepard模型、LSSVM-Shepard模型进行高程转换及精度对比。结果表明,新组合模型高程转换精度高于各单一模型,且在平原地区转换效果与二次曲面-Shepard模型基本一致,在高原山区拟合效果优于二次曲面-Shepard模型。     

Laboratory Experiment on Wave Induced Turbulence

A laboratory experiment was conducted inside a wind wave tank to investigate the wave induced turbulence. In this experiment, the wave surface elevation and velocity beneath the water surface were measured simultaneously to investigate the relation between the wave status and wave induced turbulence. The profile of the turbulent dissipation rate and Reynolds stress were calculated using experimental data. The effect of the wave status on turbulence is investigated with regard to the wind wave, swell, and mixed wave conditions. It was depicted that the turbulence decreased with increasing depth from the water surface and that the turbulence that was induced by a wave with larger wavelength and wave height is much stronger for the same wave status. Finally, we observed that the wind wave is more effective in activating the wave induced turbulence.     

Depression and elevation internal solitary waves in a two-layer fluid and their forces on cylindrical piles

Both large amplitude depression and elevation internal solitary waves (ISWs) were observed on the continental shelf of the northwest South China Sea (SCS) during the Wenchang Internal Wave Experiment. In this study, we investigate the characteristics of depression and elevation ISWs based on comparisons between observational results and internal wave theories. It is suggested that the large amplitude depression wave is better represented by the extended Korteweg-de Vries (EKdV) theory than by the KdV model, whereas the large amplitude elevation wave is in better agreement with the KdV equation than with the EKdV theory. Wave-induced forces on a supposed small-diameter cylindrical pile by depression and elevation waves are also estimated using the internal wave theory and Morison formula. The wave-induced force by elevation ISWs is rarely reported in the literature. It is found that the force induced by the elevation wave differs significantly from that by the depression wave, and the elevation wave generally produces greater force on the pile in the lower water column than the depression wave. These results show that ISWs in the study area can present a serious threat to ocean engineering structures, and should not be ignored in the design of oil platforms and ocean operations.     

浑厚山体随高程增加由表及里地震动响应研究

为探究浑厚山体不同高程由表及里地震动响应规律,以冷竹关山体为例,采用离散元软件建立地形与风化介质组合模型,并从底部边界输入汶川地震波信号,研究该山体两侧边坡的内外动力响应规律。结果表明,随着高程的增加,靠大渡河一侧边坡坡体内与坡表的加速度放大系数均表现出先增大后减小的节律性变化,在近坡顶时增大较快并达到最大值;靠近瓦斯沟一侧边坡坡表受地形起伏的影响,加速度放大系数存在凸坡放大、凹坡减小的特征;相同高程,随边坡由表及里深度的增加,加速度放大系数表现为逐步减小,当距坡表150~200 m时放大曲线趋于平缓;随高程的增加,加速度放大系数由表及里的减小速度变缓,且放大曲线收敛平缓的深度增大;随岩体风化程度的增加,岩体介质波速降低,共振效应使得加速度响应增大,与此同时,斜坡地形与介质组合效应使得坡表峰值加速度放大系数在2.0附近。     

Algal genetic engineering in China: Progress and cooperation

INTRODUCTIONTheWellknownthooriesofPritChard(l952)andHansenandRattray(l965)destribeestUarine~ationasfashenedseawatCrflowingoutinanearsurfacelayerandanwaterflowinlandwardbeow.WhenthelateralvariationofbathyInetryistakenintoarmunt,theverticalshatificationrnaybereplatal,orpadiallyreplaed,byalateralstIatfficatfonalongwithalateralvariatinnofveodtyfiekl,whichrnayshowalandwardflowofsaltwaterinthedeepchannelandanWhrdflowoffasherWhterontheshoaIs.fumodeofbarotaedationWhsfustsuggestalbyFischer(l9…     

Energy dissipation through wind-generated breaking waves

Wave breaking is an important process that controls turbulence properties and fluxes of heat and mass in the upper oceanic layer.A model is described for energy dissipation per unit area at the ocean surface attributed to wind-generated breaking waves,in terms of ratio of energy dissipation to energy input,windgenerated wave spectrum,and wave growth rate.Also advanced is a vertical distribution model of turbulent kinetic energy,based on an exponential distribution method.The result shows that energy dissipation rate depends heavily on wind speed and sea state.Our results agree well with predictions of previous works.     

Water wave solutions obtained by variational method

Abstract Variational problem for irrotational, incompressible inviscid fluid in finite water depth is considered. Based on the variational principle, a special solution of the problem is presented under the assumption that the dispersion /u and the nonlinearity ?satisfied e = O(fj2) as the Lagrange function is expanded up to O(//). It is shown that the elevation of the free surface should be expanded to // order to ensure the Lagrange function is in fj* order. Comparison the nonlinear free surface profiles obtained from the solution with the corresponding ones obtained from linear solutions showed that the wave crest of the nonlinear wave is steepened but the trough is flattened compared to the linear wave as expected.     

Probabilistic Methods for Reliability Assessment of Floating Structures Based on Extreme Wave Simulation

With the increasing application of floating platforms in deep waters and harsh environments,a proper assessment of the reliability of floating structures is important to ensure that these structures can operate safely during their design lives.This study outlines a practical methodology for reliability analysis of a semi-submersible platform based estimating the probability distribution of the extreme response in rough sea conditions(survival conditions).The Constrained NewWave(CNW)theory combined with Monte Carlo simulations was first applied to simulate the random wave surface elevation process in the time domain.A Gumbel distribution was the best fitting to describe the dynamically sensitive extreme response statistics under extreme waves(drift and mooring tension).The derived probability distribution of the extreme response was subsequently used in estimation of the associated limit state func-tion,and a reliability analysis of the floating structure was conducted using the Monte Carlo method.A semi-submersible platform in a water depth of 1500 m subjected to extreme wave loads was used to demonstrate the efficiency of the proposed methodology.The probability of failure of the semi-submersible when considering mooring lines tension is greater than considering drift.     

基于R/S分析的碎波带波面标度不变性研究

波浪经破碎、折射、绕射等过程后进入到碎波带,波面已经不再满足经典波浪理论的正态分布假设.利用R/S分析方法对碎波带波面的进行分析,揭示碎波带波面具有标度不变性特征,波面序列具有“记忆性”和持久性,其Hurst指数为0.76,这对建立和解释碎波带波面及波高概率分布有指示意义.进一步分析后指出Hurst指数H和谱尖度参量Qp 及波群参数Ka 呈显著的负相关,Hurst指数有可能作为反映碎波带状态的一个参数.     

Crest-height distribution of nonlinear random waves

The wave crest is an important factor for the design of both fixed and floating marine structures. Wave crest height is a dominant parameter in assessing the likelihood of wave-in-deck impact and resultant severe damage. Many empirical and theoretical distribution functions for wave crest heights have been proposed, but there is a lack of agreement between them. It is of significance to develop a better new nonlinear wave crest height distribution model. The progress in the research of wave crest heights is reviewed in this paper. Based on Stokes’ wave theory, an approximate nonlinear wave crest-height distribution formula with simple parameters is derived. Two sets of measured data are presented and compared with various theoretical distributions of wave crests obtained from nonlinear wave models and analysis of the comparison is given in detail. The new crest-height distribution model agrees well with observations. Also, the new theoretical distribution is more accurate than the other methods cited in this paper and has a greater range of applications.     

TREND SURFACE ANALYSIS OF THE EXISTENT SNOWLINE IN WEST CHINA

The analysis of twenty five existent snowline elevation values in West China indicates that snowline elevationH (meter) presents zonality change declining from south to north with latitude φ(degree) and the change declining from west to east with longitude which relates to the distance L (kilometer) to the east coastline. Therefore, the first order trend surface equation of the snowline in West China shows a plane incline from southwest to northeast. The second order trend surface equation of the snowline in West China truly represents the distribution law of the snowline in West China. Its form resembles a "overturned anticline" from southwest to northeast. The "raised axis" seems to be superimposed upon the first order trend surface.It reflects the effect of the relief. The snowline elevation in West China depends on horizontal zonality,distribution of ocean and land,and the relief.     

A VOF-based numerical model for breaking waves in surf zone

This paper introduces a numerical model for studying the evolution of a periodic wave train, shoaling, and breaking in surf zone. The model can solve the Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations for a mean flow, and (he k-s equations for turbulence kinetic energy k and turbulence dissipation rate e. To track a free surface, the volume of fluid (VOF) function, satisfying the advection equation was introduced. In the numerical treatment, third-order upwind difference scheme was applied to the convection terms of the RANS equations in order to reduce the effect of numerical viscosity. The shoaling and breaking processes of a periodic wave train on gently sloping beaches were modeled. The computed wave heights of a sloping beach and the distribution of breaking wave pressure on a vertical wall were compared with laboratory data.     

A wave modulation model of ripples over long surface waves

A study is presented on the modulation of ripples induced by a long surface wave (LW) and a new theoretical modulation model is proposed. In this model, the wind surface stress modulation is related to the modulation of ripple spectrum. The model results show that in the case of LW propagating in the wind direction with the wave age parameter of LW increasing, the area with enhanced shear stress shifts from the region near the LW crest on the upwind slope to the LW trough. With a smaller wave age parameter of LW, the ripple modulation has the maximum on the upwind slope in the vicinity of LW crest, while with a larger parameter the enhancement of ripple spectrum does not occur in that region. At low winds the amplitude of ripple modulation transfer function (MTF) is larger in the gravity wave range, while at moderate or high winds it changes little in the range from short gravity waves to capillary waves.     

Elimination of the impact of vessels on ocean wave height inversion with X-band wave monitoring radar

Directional wave spectra and integrated wave parameters can be derived from X-band radar sea surface images.A vessel on the sea surface has a significant influence on wave parameter inversions that can be seen as intensive backscatter speckles in X-band wave monitoring radar sea surface images.A novel algorithm to eliminate the interference of vessels in ocean wave height inversions from X-band wave monitoring radar is proposed.This algorithm is based on the characteristics of the interference.The principal components(PCs) of a sea surface image sequence are extracted using empirical orthogonal function(EOF)analysis.The standard deviation of the PCs is then used to identify vessel interference within the image sequence.To mitigate the interference,a suppression method based on a frequency domain geometric model is applied.The algorithm framework has been applied to OSMAR-X,a wave monitoring system developed by Wuhan University,based on nautical X-band radar.Several sea surface images captured on vessels by OSMAR-X are processed using the method proposed in this paper.Inversion schemes are validated by comparisons with data from in situ wave buoys.The root-mean-square error between the significant wave heights(SWH) retrieved from original interference radar images and those measured by the buoy is reduced by 0.25 m.The determinations of surface gravity wave parameters,in particular SWH,confirm the applicability of the proposed method.     

新疆地区Emardson大气水汽转换系数的适用性分析

利用积分法计算新疆地区9个无线电探空站2009～2013年的大气水汽转换系数K,将其作为真值,通过选取相同纬度、不同高程的探空站,分析Emardson模型对高程和时间的适用性;并均匀地选取5个探空站,逐年增加样本数据,解算不同样本的模型参数,建立对应的Emardson模型,预测其余4个探空站2014年的K值,验证Emardson模型在时间上的适用性。研究表明：1）在新疆地区,Emardson模型对高程和时间有较好的适用性;2）在时间分布上,增加样本数能在一定程度上提高Emardson模型的精度。     

ZONALITY OF DISTRIBUTION OF PHYSICO-GEOGRAPHICAL ZONES IN CHINA

With the methods of regression analysis and trend surface analysis, taking the bottom and top lines of dark conifer forest, bottom line of permafrost and the snowline of the latest glaciation in China as examples, this paper discusses the zonality regulaties of the distribution of physico-geographical zones in China. (1) Latitude zonality obeys the mathematical model of normal frequency distribution, being approximate to descending straightly within the latitude of China. (2) Longitude zonality shows that the elevation of physico-geographical zone rises straightly with the distance to east coast. (3) The combination of latitude and longitude zonalities appears a plane inclining from SSW to NNE. The decline of physico-geographical zone resembles a semiellipse- sphere inclining from the Qinghai-Xizang (Tibet) Plateau to northeast China, reflecting the effect of relief. (5) Physico-geographical zonation depends on the combination of hydrothermal conditions. Thus the factors influencing the distribution reg     

神农架林区植被分布与地形的关系研究

神农架林区是我国物种多样性最为丰富的地区之一,地形地貌复杂,对植被分布影响巨大。本文利用该地区2007年数字高程数据、2007年植被分布图以及2017年野外实地调查数据,基于最大熵模型和空间分析理论,从植被类型和种群两个角度研究该地区不同尺度植被空间分布的地形特征,分别量化植被类型和种群空间分布的地形范围,得到植被类型与地形因子关系模型、植被种群与地形因子关系模型。结果表明:①神农架林区影响植被空间分布的地形因子不同,其中影响针叶林分布的最重要的地形因子是高程和高程变异系数,影响阔叶林分布的是高程和坡向,影响灌丛分布的是坡向变率和坡向,影响草丛分布的较为分散;②典型植被种群分布的地形范围和植被类型的基本一致,其中90%针叶林分布在高程1600~2600 m间,典型种群巴山冷杉和华山松主要分布在高程1700~3200 m和1700~2200 m;85%的阔叶林分布在高程1000~2000 m间,典型种群青冈类和鹅耳枥主要分布在高程1200~2200 m间;95%的灌丛分布在坡向变率0~40°间,典型种群杜鹃和蔷薇主要分布在坡向变率小于40°的范围,但相应的关系模型存在差异,植被类型与地形因子为高斯模型,典型种群与地形因子关系模型相对复杂,不同种群的分布模式不同;③虽然坡度常作为数字地形的重要因子,但本文研究发现该地区坡度对植被类型和种群分布的影响不明显。研究结果可为神农架林区植被保护和恢复,以及植被规划和管理提供基础参考。     

基于Bedmap2与冰雷达数据的南极局部冰盖三维建模

利用Bedmap2数据与中国第29次南极科学考察期间获取的冰雷达数据,在中山站至Dome A断面的Gamburtsev山脉地区首次构建11.3 km×11.5 km南极局部冰盖三维模型。着重介绍三维模型建立过程中的数据处理,其中冰雷达数据采集首次采用中国自主研发的冰雷达系统。详细阐述了冰雷达数据的处理流程,包括数据预处理、常规图像修正技术以及冰下地形获取,得到冰下基岩埋深和冰盖内部等时层埋深,插值得到100 m分辨率的冰下基岩DEM（海拔1 729 m~2 718 m）和等时层DEM（海拔2 601 m~2 950 m）,利用南极Bedmap2冰表面栅格影像得到100 m分辨率的冰盖表面DEM（海拔3 679 m~3 745 m）。结合冰盖内外部数据处理结果,构建包含冰盖表面、冰盖内部等时层和冰下基岩地形特征的三维模型,并对模型进行检验,对冰盖内外部地形特征进行初步分析。