珠江口磨刀门月际尺度地貌演变研究

本文基于二维波流耦合泥沙数学模型对磨刀门河口月际尺度地貌演变进行了模拟研究。结果表明:（1）枯季，无波浪作用下，磨刀门河口总体呈淤积状态；波流耦合后，磨刀门河口整体由淤积转为以冲刷为主。洪季，无波浪作用下，磨刀门河口除西汊外均呈淤积状态；波流耦合后，拦门沙内坡与中心区转为冲刷状态，整体仍以淤积为主，但总淤积量减少；（2）月际尺度上，地貌变化幅度为厘米级，洪枯季具有明显差异。不考虑波浪作用下，磨刀门河口洪、枯季均以淤积为主，但洪季淤积幅度更大；波流耦合后，磨刀门河口呈洪淤枯冲的格局；（3）空间上，拦门沙外坡洪淤枯冲，拦门沙顶洪季淤积、枯季变化不大，内坡洪枯季均为冲刷。此外，拦门沙内坡以径潮流作用产生的底切应力为主，外坡以波浪作用引起的底切应力为主。     

磨刀门河口近期演变及其排洪效应

通过分析珠江磨刀门分流河口水动力结构及拦门沙的走向变化,解析磨刀门河口近期演变,并从河口的结构和功能的角度,分析磨刀门河口的排洪功能和行为。结论认为:(1)磨刀门河口正由径流优势型向河流—波浪型转变,波浪成为改造和修饰口门地形的重要动力;(2)磨刀门河口的动力、地貌变化,使得河口对淡水的防御性增强而渗透性减弱,其排洪潜力有限;(3)强径流河口发育支汊是河口延伸中的基本规律,在今后磨刀门的治理开发过程(尤其是排洪)中应注意支汊的保护利用。     

珠江口黄茅海拦门沙演变及成因分析

采用1977,1994,2003,2010年4个年份的地形图,建立了DEM模型,结合二维水动力模型对近30多年来黄茅海拦门沙演变的特征及成因进行了分析。研究表明近30多年来黄茅海拦门沙平面上向海推移,范围缩小,在内坡和拦门沙顶冲刷,在外坡淤积;拦门沙的基本成因是其位于上溯流与下泄流控制区域之间的过渡带,该过渡带为明显的动力较弱的区域,泥沙较易在此处沉积;黄茅海大面积的围垦导致纳潮量减少、潮汐动力减弱、径流作用相对增强,使下泄流控制区扩大、上溯流控制区减小、过渡区下移,这是拦门沙冲刷外移和缩小的主要原因。上游来沙量减少加剧了拦门沙冲刷外移和缩小。     

珠江磨刀门河口表层沉积物磁性特征及其动力沉积环境意义

基于2015年3月珠江磨刀门河口表层沉积物磁学和粒度测量结果,研究磨刀门河口磁性特征空间分布规律,分析磁性参数与沉积物粒度的关系,并探讨其对沉积动力环境的响应。磁性参数磁化率（χ）和饱和等温剩磁（SIRM）均在拦门沙处出现低值区,并在10 m等深线外呈现向海递减趋势;频率磁化率（χ_fd%）、非磁滞剩磁磁化率（χ_ARM）以及比值参数χ_ARM/SIRM和χ_ARM/χ在拦门沙处出现低值区,而在拦门沙外呈现高值:表明研究区域磁性特征由亚铁磁性矿物主导,而拦门沙区域存在一定量的不完全反铁磁性矿物。粒度是影响沉积物磁性特征的重要因素,SIRM/χ等参数与粗颗粒组分（大于63 μm）呈显著正相关,χ_fd%等参数与小于16 μm粒级组分高度相关,结果显示χ_fd%、χ_ARM、χ_ARM/SIRM以及χ_ARM/χ等参数可作为本区域沉积物细颗粒组分（小于16 μm）的代用指标,而SIRM/χ则可作为粗颗粒组分（大于63 μm）的代用指标。基于沉积物类型、动力环境等综合考虑,选取SIRM、S_-300、SIRM/χ参数聚类分析,可将磨刀门河口动力沉积环境分为4个区,结果与该区域动力环境及动力地貌格局具有一致性。本研究不仅对了解新动力格局下磨刀门河口演变模式具有重要意义,还可以丰富河口沉积动力学研究方法。     

磨刀门河口水沙变化与地貌响应

以西江磨刀门河口为研究对象,应用马口站1960～2000年月平均流量及含沙量资料,1980、1981和2003年洪枯季实测水文及表层沉积物采样资料,分析磨刀门河口近几十年来的水沙变化,建立磨刀门河口水沙变化与纵、横断面及口门形态的响应模式.结论认为,西江磨刀门河口径流量年际变化不大;含沙量及输沙总量在1993年前后发生变异,有减少的趋势,悬浮泥沙中值粒径偏细;总体上形成了丰水少沙的水沙组合.磨刀门河口形态响应滞后于水沙变化,存在洪淤枯冲的年内变化.由于上游来沙量减少、人工护岸的作用下,河口口门断面趋于窄深.总体上,磨刀门河口深槽变浅,拦门沙在波浪作用下加高变薄;口门向外海延伸较快,使得河口口门动力相对强弱发生了较大变化,波浪动力及沿岸流对泥沙转运的作用增强,磨刀门河口正逐渐向河流-波浪型河口转变.     

磨刀门河口在20世纪60至70年代的演变模拟与动力地貌过程分析

使用长周期动力地貌模型(long-term morphodynamic model),再现了磨刀门河口1964—1977年的演变过程,并从水动力、地形演变规律以及人类活动等角度系统分析了长周期地貌演变过程。模拟结果显示在1964—1977年磨刀门河口鹤州至交杯沙浅滩和上沟快速淤积,13a的平均淤积厚度均在40cm以上,与之相反,横洲水道杧州至大井角段和上沟东部深槽冲刷明显。磨刀门河口演变季节性特征明显。在洪季浅滩淤积,深槽冲刷;在枯季滩槽都处于淤积状态。演变过程中各种基岩岛屿使动力结构和演变规律呈现多元化,同时人类活动对整个区域的演变起到了重要的作用。     

长江口拦门沙深水入海航道整治工程的研究

随着国民经济的发展和上海浦东新开发区的发展，长江口深水入海航道的选择与治理，已越来越多地引起人们的关注，长江口深水入海航道的选择基本上可以分为避开拦门沙和不避开拦门沙两类。本文根据长江河口的发育模式、河口延伸、汊道演变的规律、汊道的形态与水力条件，提出长江口拦门沙深水入海航道整治规划，近期以北槽－８ｍ航槽为宜，远期可逐步开发至－１２．５ｍ     

中国主要河口拦门沙的研究进展

河口拦门沙常处在河流入海的咽喉部位 ,是海陆相互作用的产物 ,也是河口水沙与河床作用最剧烈的地带 ,曾经引起众多学者的广泛关注。由于河道突变 ,拦门沙因水浅给河流水运和海运事业的发展以及通海航槽建设带来了极大的影响 ;此外 ,由于拦门沙水域特殊的理化性质 ,使得其在河口地球化学过程和河口生态系统中起着不可替代的作用。所以 ,对于河口拦门沙的研究受到了广泛的重视 ,取得了很大的进展 ,本文对于国内在河口拦门沙研究方面所取得的进展进行评述。１拦门沙发育演变及形态特征拦门沙是河口中主要的地貌单元 ,从６０年代以来 ,我国许多…     

基于遥感和GIS的辽河口拦门沙演变研究

河口拦门沙浅滩冲淤演变对于河口生态环境保护及资源开发利用等具有十分重要的意义。以辽河口拦门沙地带为研究对象,采用遥感和GIS相结合的方法,克服了实测地形资料缺乏的困境,对辽河口拦门沙的冲淤演变特征进行了研究,并探讨了演变的原因机制。研究结果表明:近期辽河口拦门沙外缘整体呈侵蚀后退趋势,这主要与流域来沙减少有关;蛤蜊岗子滩和西滩都有向东淤涨的趋势,这与拦门沙外缘侵蚀的泥沙向上游搬运及局部河势变化产生的泥沙输移有关;辽河干流水道内江心洲不断向下游淤涨,对局部河势及拦门沙浅滩的演变会产生较大的影响。     

广利河口拦门沙的沉积特征与冲淤过程的研究

为给广利河口航道的建设提供科学依据,通过对研究区现场调查,查明了广利河口拦门沙水动力特征、海底地形、底质特征和地层垂向分布特征。在进行沉积物分析与历史资料对比分析的基础上,探讨了拦门沙体的沉积特征和冲淤过程。分析认为,广利河口拦门沙是在浅海-潮坪基础上接受广利河、支脉河和溢洪河携运泥沙堆积而成,海岸滩涂沉积物和黄河口水下岸坡物质对拦门沙的发育也产生了一定的影响。在河流和海洋动力作用的改造下,现在拦门沙基本进入冲淤平衡时期。但近期由于人工因素的影响,拦门沙顶出现暂时的淤积。研究结果还表明：拦门沙体北侧水动力作用明显强于南侧,航道设计为东偏南较好。     

海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面特征研究

通过物理模型实验研究了海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的形成和演化过程,给出了稳定的沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的几何特征。实验中考虑了两种初始坡度(1∶20和1∶10)和不同波高的规则波和不规则波,讨论了不同初始坡度海岸上破碎波空间分布特征。结果表明,沙坝产生后存在向岸和离岸两种运动形态,但最终将停留在稳定位置。稳定的沙坝剖面对应不同初始坡度和波浪存在不同的大沙坝和小沙坝分布。沙坝剖面由长时间小波高波浪序列作用后可转化为稳定滩肩剖面,该剖面不依赖于波浪和初始坡度。实验也给出了平衡剖面与理论曲线的对比以及剖面上泥沙粒径的分布。     

基于遥感的腰沙海域潮滩演变趋势研究

腰沙位于江苏省南通市东南侧海域,是江苏岸外辐射状沙脊南翼最大的沙洲,其滩槽地貌形态较为复杂,但潮滩和深槽均相对比较稳定,深水岸线富有。通过对1987,1995,2000,2008,2015年五个时期的卫星遥感数据和辐射沙洲地区调查资料分析,利用适合腰沙沙洲岸线演变的遥感波段组合,获得了腰沙地区20多a来岸滩典型地理特征演变的信息,结果表明:1987-2015年,腰沙潮滩内缘区围垦发展迅速,人工岸线愈加复杂。腰沙"水道—沙洲系统"组合形态总体态势呈现外缘区东侧及南侧淤涨,北侧侵蚀。小庙洪水道总体有向南偏移的趋势。潮滩南北方向在形态及演变动态上存在空间分异。     

Seasonal-scale nearshore morphological evolution: Field observations and numerical modeling

A coupled waves–currents-bathymetric evolution model (DELFT-3D) is compared with field measurements to test hypotheses regarding the processes responsible for alongshore varying nearshore morphological changes at seasonal time scales. A 2001 field experiment, along the beaches adjacent to Grays Harbor, Washington, USA, captured the transition between the high-energy erosive conditions of winter and the low-energy beach-building conditions typical of summer. The experiment documented shoreline progradation on the order of 10–20 m and on average approximately 70 m of onshore sandbar migration during a four-month period. Significant alongshore variability was observed in the morphological response of the sandbar over a 4 km reach of coast with sandbar movement ranging from 20 m of offshore migration to over 175 m of onshore bar migration, the largest seasonal-scale onshore migration event observed in a natural setting. Both observations and model results suggest that, in the case investigated here, alongshore variations in initial bathymetry are primarily responsible for the observed alongshore variable morphological changes. Alongshore varying incident hydrodynamic forcing, occasionally significant in this region due to a tidal inlet and associated ebb-tidal delta, was relatively minor during the study period and appears to play an insignificant role in the observed alongshore variability in sandbar behavior at kilometer-scale. The role of fully three-dimensional cell circulation patterns in explaining the observed morphological variability also appears to be minor, at least in the case investigated here.     

Morphological features of the Apennines foreland/accretionary-wedge boundary in the Ionian Sea

A detailed reconstruction of the morphology and recent tectonic activity of the Northern Ionian basin is provided on the basis of newly acquired high-resolution swath bathymetric and single and multichannel seismic profiles. The tectonic domains in this area are the Calabrian accretionary wedge and the Apulian foreland. The contact between the two domains, oriented NW–SE, morphologically coincides with a sea-bottom erosional channel (Taranto canyon) characterized on both sides by mass movements induced by slope instability. Along the accretionary wedge/Apulian foreland boundary three different morphological sectors have been recognized whose main characters are represented by a southward stepped increase of erosional canyon activity resulting in a pronounced slope acclivity and a superficial sediment instability. By means of seismic data we correlate the morphology of the sea-bottom to different contractional and flexural processes of the accretionary wedge/foreland system. The interaction between the different rheological domains in the subduction/collision processes could have also induced horizontal stress represented by areas of tectonic release. In an area like this, where very few detailed surveys have been carried out, this study represents the first attempt in correlating the recent tectonic activity to the morphological features and in locating possible slope instability that has to be evaluated for the positioning of offshore infrastructures.     

工程养护海滩对"803"风暴潮的响应过程研究

研究养护海滩对风暴潮的响应过程在人工养滩工程设计与施工中具有重要意义。老龙头养护海滩在竣工半个月后遭遇“803”风暴潮，导致岸滩滩肩最大蚀退 6.5 m，沙坝坝顶最大下蚀 1.2 m。在现场测量的基础上，利用 XBeach 建立风暴潮过程 的老龙头海滩海床演变模型，研究结果表明： （1） XBeach 模拟结果与实际地形变化侵淤趋势一致，风暴潮期间人工沙坝均向岸移动，但模拟结果的侵蚀程度更大，海滩响应更加剧烈； （2） 强浪条件下人工沙坝的透射系数为 0.29~0.42，常浪条件下透射系数为 0.45~0.95，因而人工沙坝在大浪条件下掩护作用更佳； （3） 风暴潮期间人工沙坝附近破波显著，坝顶流速明显增大，最大可达 1.21 m/s，是无人工沙坝情况下的 2.3 倍，而在人工沙坝向岸侧，因波能提前耗散，流速减为 0.28 m/s，是无人工沙坝时的 0.4 倍，且没有产生离岸流。老龙头养护工程整体泥沙损失较少，易于恢复.     

Morphodynamic Characteristics and Medium-Term Simulation of the North—South Passage Under the Impact of the Yangtze Estuary Deepwater Navigation Channel Project

The morphological evolution characteristics of the North-South Passage area since the construction of the Yangtze Estuary Deepwater Navigation Channel Project(DNCP) are analyzed on the basis of the measured data. A twodimensional morphodynamics numerical model of the Yangtze Estuary is established to verify the morphological evolution of the North-South Passage under the influence of the DNCP and to predict the future evolution in the next 40 years. Data analysis shows that the North Passage has experienced rapid adjustment stages and adaptive stages after the construction of the DNCP. Slow erosion occurred along the main channel, and slow siltation could be observed in the area between the groins. The South Passage showed a state of upper section erosion and down section deposition. At present, the whole South Passage is in a slight erosion state. According to the numerical model, the eroding and silting speed of the North Passage will slow down in the future. The present state that erosion occurs in the main channel and siltation occurs between the groins will continue. The South Passage will still maintain upper section erosion and down section deposition in the future. Due to the main channel erosion of the North Passage and siltation of the South Passage, the sediment division ratio of the North Passage will increase in the future but still be smaller than 50%. After morphological evolution of 40 years, the direction of residual sediment transport caused by M2 and M4 tidal components in the North Passage has not changed, but the transport rate will decrease. It is considered that the morphological evolution of the North-South Passage could reach a relatively stable state after 40 years.     

侵蚀浪条件下沉水植被对沙坝-潟湖海岸的冲淤影响研究

全球海岸生态系统正遭受气候变化及人类活动带来的威胁, 本文基于沙坝-潟湖系统海岸典型剖面形态, 通过设计实施动床波浪水槽试验, 定量研究了侵蚀浪条件下沉水植被对该系统海岸冲淤的影响。结果表明: 沉水植被明显削弱了沙坝前坡波浪破碎区前缘的波高增大幅度, 并使坝后波高衰减; 植被作用使波浪反射和透射系数减小、耗散系数增大; 侵蚀浪作用下, 沙坝坝顶冲刷较明显, 潟湖内呈淤积趋势, 海岸前丘受波浪冲刷呈陡坎形态。植被影响下沙坝和前丘区域最大侵蚀厚度均减小; 植被可减少沙坝净侵蚀量、潟湖内淤积量及离岸输沙量, 对海岸前丘有较好的保护作用。     

Numerical Modeling of the Undertow Structure and Sandbar Migration in the Surfzone

A process-based 3D numerical model for surfzone hydrodynamics and beach evolution was established. Comparisons between the experimental data and model results proved that the model could effectively describe the hydrodynamics, sediment transport feature and sandbar migration process in the surfzone with satisfactory precision. A series of numerical simulations on the wave breaking and shoaling up to a barred beach were carried out based on the model system. Analyzed from the model results, the wave-induced current system in the surfzone consists of two major processes, which are the phase-averaged undertow caused by wave breaking and the net drift caused by both of the nonlinear wave motion and surface roller effect. When storm waves come to the barred beach, the strong offshore undertow along the beach suppresses the onshore net drift, making the initial sandbar migrate to the seaside. Under the condition of calm wave environment, both the undertow and net drift flow to the shoreline at the offshore side of the sandbar, and then push the initial sandbar to the shoreline. The consideration of surface roller has significant impact on the modeling results of the sandbar migration. As the roller transfer rate increases, the sandbar moves onshore especially under the storm wave condition.     

波浪动力因素变化对沙质岸滩演变的影响

通过波浪水槽实验,对海平面变化造成的波浪动力因素改变引起的沙质岸滩形态响应开展机理性研究。实验采用1∶10单一沙质斜坡概化岸滩,利用3种不同实验水深模拟海平面变化,考虑椭圆余弦波、非规则波、规则波和孤立波4种类型波浪作用。实验对波浪在斜坡上的传播变形、破碎、上爬和回落过程的波高及波浪作用后的岸滩地形进行了测量。实验结果表明,椭圆余弦波、规则波和非规则波作用下,平衡岸滩呈现出滩肩形态,孤立波作用下则呈沙坝形态。海平面上升造成波浪动力增强,沙质岸滩平衡剖面形状基本保持不变向岸平移,槽谷、滩肩、沙坝位置以及岸线蚀退距离,均呈现出良好规律性。     

博鳌旅游度假区地貌景观演变与岸坡稳定性分析

以傅鳌亚洲论坛为契机迅速发展的位于万泉河河口地区的海南傅鳌旅游度假区，在海内外事有较高的知名度和旅游吸引力。旅游度假区内地貌景观的多样性特征显著，集丘陵山地、海洋、泻湖洼地、岛屿、河道、沙坝、河口海岸等地貌景观为一体，万泉河河口地区长期以来保持优美的自然景观，具有很好的旅游开发前景。博螯旅游度假区以泻湖-沙坝、河口岛屿-潮汐汊道为主的沉积地貌体系，发育于全新世海平面上升的背景下，现代地貌格局约在3000aBP形成。河口海岸和江心洲地貌稳定性问题成为海南岛博鳌旅游度假区可持续发展的关键影响因素，其中口门附近的稳定性最差，玉带滩北段的海岸侵蚀比较明显，万泉河主河道南岸的侵蚀比较严重，沙美内海的淤积则不断加强。结合区域地貌特征，提出解决岸坡稳定性的若干对策。