海滩-珊瑚礁系统风暴响应特征研究——以1409号台风“威马逊”对清澜港海岸影响为例

珊瑚礁海岸在我国热带地区广泛发育,海滩-珊瑚礁海岸的动力地貌过程是认识该类海岸的关键。本文基于对海南铜鼓岭-高隆湾岸段的台风"威马逊"前后跟踪观测,讨论了海滩风暴响应特征及其与珊瑚礁发育之间的联系。结果表明该岸段海滩在"威马逊"风暴作用下响应最为剧烈的区带位于平均海平面(MSL)以上,表现为后滨冲越,以及岸线蚀退、滩肩变窄、滩面侵蚀等响应特征。海滩风暴响应特征与近岸珊瑚礁发育密切相关,在无珊瑚或珊瑚受损的岸段海滩响应剧烈,剖面平均变化率(MPC)为其他岸段的3~6倍,珊瑚礁通过消耗波能对相邻海滩提供良好保护。海滩-珊瑚礁系统对风暴的响应特征受控于珊瑚礁对海岸波浪的消耗能力和海滩固有的缓冲能力。基于本文研究结果,归纳出风暴极端动力条件下海滩-珊瑚礁海岸的4种风暴响应模式。     

烟台芝罘岛海岸异常堆积事件

对烟台芝罘岛北岸海岸沉积研究发现,在坡积层中存在异常情况下形成的海滩砂砾石沉积层。异常海滩砂砾石沉积可能与历史风暴潮形成的激浪作用有关。     

福建岸滩动态变化

本文根据1984—1985年对福建海岸15条剖面进行周年观测资料,首次研究了该区岸滩的季节,风暴潮循环等现代岸滩动态过程及其原因。结果表明,福建海滩主要类型有河口型、湾口沙嘴型和开敞高能型等三种;潮滩可分为动态平衡型和淤积型两种,以后者为主,最大淤积速率45cm/a;风暴潮对海滩作用存在着可逆和不可逆过程,单坡式海滩的可逆过程周期约2个月;影响海滩发育的动力是波浪、沿岸流和径流,潮滩则以潮流和人类活动为主。     

风暴潮前后莱州湾西岸岸滩演化特征研究

<正>作者通过对2007年3月初风暴潮前后典型岸滩的剖面测量、沉积物取样分析及数值计算等方法,探讨了莱州湾西岸岸滩在大风天气下的演化特征及其对风暴潮的响应。结果表明:正常天气下,该区岸滩泥沙来源不丰富,岸滩基本处于稳定状态;大风天气下,黄河南下泥沙与海岸侵蚀物质为主要泥沙来源,河口北侧岸滩受侵严重,而河口南侧岸     

唐山港京唐港区泥沙运动特征与海岸性质界定

海岸性质的界定,是港口航道减淤措施合理布置的关键。通过地形资料和现场测量资料对京唐港区的水下地形地貌特征、泥沙特性以及沿岸输沙特点等进行了分析研究。研究结果表明,京唐港区泥沙中值粒径大于0.06 mm、沉积物中黏土含量小于15%、岸滩坡度通常大于1/1 000;泥沙运动具有沿岸泥沙运动特征,但与沙质海岸又有所不同,存在复合沿岸输沙,尤其在风暴潮期间,大浪产生的破波沿岸流与风暴潮潮流叠加,产生更为强烈的沿岸输沙能力。在粉沙质海岸定义基础上,将京唐港区海岸界定为细沙粉沙质海岸。在京唐港区航道防波挡沙堤布置上考虑复合沿岸输沙,取得良好效果。     

海滩近岸带中尺度地形动力过程研究进展

海滩近岸带中尺度地形动力过程是海岸海洋科学研究的重要研究内容之一.近20年来该领域发展较快,取得了一些重要的成果.对近岸带中尺度地形动力过程的碎波带地形与沙坝、冲流带地形与滩角、海滩风暴响应、观测技术手段等主要领域的进展进行了总结和评述,并对我国海滩研究提出要从加强观测手段和制定长期观测计划两方面来加强的建议.     

海阳市典型砂质海岸侵蚀机制与防护对策研究

海阳市砂质海岸资源丰富,延绵近120 km,尤以万米沙滩浴场著称,但近年岸滩侵蚀严重影响其社会经济发展.本研究基于海阳市羊角畔两侧长约20 km典型砂质海岸连续3 a的海岸线蚀和典型剖面蚀淤调查,定量化研究海滩侵蚀及其变化,辅以一维数值模型,研究人类活动影响下的泥沙运动特征和海滩侵蚀机制.研究结果表明,调查区42.5％和5.90％的砂质海岸分别处于侵蚀和强侵蚀状态,羊角畔东侧海岸侵蚀强度高于西侧,海阳港至海阳核电厂之间海滩侵蚀强度最高,海滩侵蚀强度与人类活动扰动程度密切相关.海岸工程、临海养殖和人为采砂导致海阳市部分砂质海岸侵蚀严重的主要原因,导致羊角畔两侧海岸侵蚀机制也不同.基于各岸段侵蚀机制特征有针对性地提出退养还滩、凸堤拆除和沙滩喂养等对策,以减缓海阳砂质海岸侵蚀威胁.     

风暴浪作用下沙质岸滩稳定机制物理模型试验研究

近年来风暴潮等海洋灾害日趋频发,沙质海岸侵蚀问题也愈发突出,沙滩稳定防护显得日益重要。为研究风暴浪作用下沙质岸滩稳定机制问题,设计了一系列的水槽试验,对风暴浪作用下沙质岸滩的稳定机制和演变过程进行了录像观察和研究分析。试验中采用图像处理技术,根据水和岸滩床面的像素值差异,对岸滩整体剖面进行实时动态提取;对比和分析了不同入射波高、波周期、水深、岸滩初始坡度以及波高连续变化下沙质岸滩演变过程。试验结果表明,岸滩稳定与岸滩初始坡度和沙坝的发育直接相关,而波参数主要影响岸滩扰动幅度和沙坝以及前滩侵蚀边界的位置变化。当入射波高连续变化时,沙坝迅速响应并向离岸迁移。岸滩变化幅值与入射波能流存在明显正相关关系,波能流越大对岸滩稳定性的危害越大。而水位升高会增强前滩向岸侵蚀风险。此外,在本试验尺度下,前滩以侵蚀为主。当岸滩初始坡度小于稳定坡度且波陡较小时,即Dean参数Ω''较小时,岸滩才发生明显的前滩淤积,这对于试验尺度下岸滩恢复工况研究至关重要。具体来说,当岸滩整体坡度为1:10且前滩坡度达到1:5~1:2.5时,岸滩稳定性最好,岸滩形态最接近最终平衡剖面,岸滩趋于稳定的时间最短。     

遥感在海岸岸滩稳定性分析中的应用

利用多时相航卫片图像信息和现场观测资料相结合的研究方法,通过对三门湾自然环境、水动力条件、泥沙运动等因素分析,研究海岸岸滩形态及演变过程,指出该地区的岸滩稳定性现状和影响因素.提出利用航卫片技术有空间分布和环境动态分析方面的优势,结合常规水文地形资料进行海岸岸滩稳定性综合分析的新思路.     

工程养护海滩对"803"风暴潮的响应过程研究

研究养护海滩对风暴潮的响应过程在人工养滩工程设计与施工中具有重要意义。老龙头养护海滩在竣工半个月后遭遇“803”风暴潮，导致岸滩滩肩最大蚀退 6.5 m，沙坝坝顶最大下蚀 1.2 m。在现场测量的基础上，利用 XBeach 建立风暴潮过程 的老龙头海滩海床演变模型，研究结果表明： （1） XBeach 模拟结果与实际地形变化侵淤趋势一致，风暴潮期间人工沙坝均向岸移动，但模拟结果的侵蚀程度更大，海滩响应更加剧烈； （2） 强浪条件下人工沙坝的透射系数为 0.29~0.42，常浪条件下透射系数为 0.45~0.95，因而人工沙坝在大浪条件下掩护作用更佳； （3） 风暴潮期间人工沙坝附近破波显著，坝顶流速明显增大，最大可达 1.21 m/s，是无人工沙坝情况下的 2.3 倍，而在人工沙坝向岸侧，因波能提前耗散，流速减为 0.28 m/s，是无人工沙坝时的 0.4 倍，且没有产生离岸流。老龙头养护工程整体泥沙损失较少，易于恢复.     

Progress in the Study of Coastal Storm Deposits

Numerous studies have been carried out to identify storm deposits and decipher storm-induced sedimentary processes in coastal and shallow-marine areas. This study aims to provide an in-depth review on the study of coastal storm deposits from the following five aspects. 1) The formation of storm deposits is a function of hydrodynamic and sedimentary processes under the constraints of local geological and ecological factors. Many questions remain to demonstrate the genetic links between storm-related processes and a variety of resulting deposits such as overwash deposits, underwater deposits and hummocky cross-stratification (HCS). Future research into the formation of storm deposits should combine flume experiments, field observations and numerical simulations, and make full use of sediment source tracing methods. 2) Recently there has been rapid growth in the number of studies utilizing sediment provenance analysis to investigate the source of storm deposits. The development of source tracing techniques, such as mineral composition, magnetic susceptibility, microfossil and geochemical property, has allowed for better understanding of the depositional processes and environmental changes associated with coastal storms. 3) The role of extreme storms in the sedimentation of low-lying coastal wetlands with diverse ecosystem services has also drawn a great deal of attention. Many investigations have attempted to quantify widespread land loss, vertical marsh sediment accumulation and wetland elevation change induced by major hurricanes. 4) Paleostorm reconstructions based on storm sedimentary proxies have shown many advantages over the instrumental records and historic documents as they allow for the reconstruction of storm activities on millennial or longer time scales. Storm deposits having been used to establish proxies mainly include beach ridges and shelly cheniers, coral reefs, estuary-deltaic storm sequences and overwash deposits. Particularly over the past few decades, the proxies developed from overwash deposits have successfully retrieved many records of storm activities during the mid to late Holocene worldwide. 5) Distinguishing sediments deposited by storms and tsunamis is one of the most difficult issues among the many aspects of storm deposit studies. Comparative studies have investigated numerous diagnostic evidences including hydrodynamic condition, landward extent, grain property, texture and grading, thickness, microfossil assemblage and landscape conformity. Perhaps integrating physical, biological and geochemical evidences will, in the future, allow unambiguous identification of tsunami deposits and storm deposits.     

山东半岛东部滨海沙滩对台风“米雷”的地貌响应

通过对台风“米雷”登陆前后山东半岛东部8个滨海沙滩地形地貌的现场调查以及一年后的重复调查对比分析了沙滩地貌形态的变化,并依据台风期间的风要素计算和评估了台风期间沙滩的沿岸输沙和横向输沙趋势,探讨了在热带风暴发生频次较低的地区沙滩的风暴响应模式和海岸恢复规律。研究结果表明,台风造成横向和纵向输沙量的增加和输沙方向的逆转是造成沙滩形态改变的主要因素,而在米雷登陆前的阶段横向和纵向输沙作用最为强烈。研究区内沙滩的风暴响应模式主要表现为侵蚀陡坎的形成和滩肩或滩面的侵蚀后退。与其他台风频发的区域不同,在研究区台风是一个偶然的强动力事件,因此台风特征对沙滩的风暴响应的作用更加明显。而沙滩剖面形态的作用,仅仅在耗散型沙滩上有所体现。此外,沙滩的走向是控制风暴作用强度的主要因素,并且与沙滩风后恢复密切相关。     

湛江红树林保护区现代沉积物粒度特征及其对风暴事件的响应

沉积物粒度是描述沉积环境的重要指标之一,利用沉积物粒度参数可以反演沉积物堆积过程、沉积水动力特征.通过对湛江红树林国家级自然保护内海湾、河口、潮坪区的红树林表层沉积物粒度分析的研究,结果表明：河口与海湾区的红树林沉积物以泥质为主;有堤坝保护的河口区红树林沉积物颗粒细,为悬移质体含量高且连续稳定的低能环境;红树林发育差的潮坪区红树林沉积物为砂含量较大且水动力较强的高能环境.并通过推算海湾区沉积物的沉积年代,结合样品粒度分析的结果得出了该地区风暴潮发生的大致时间.     

基于海气耦合模型的渤海两种类型风暴潮数值模拟与对比分析

渤海一年四季都易受到由温带风暴和热带气旋所致风暴潮的影响。为了缓解风暴潮灾害对海岸地区人员生命财产的影响，十分有必要了解大型风暴潮的发生过程和机制。目前大部分研究主要局限于单一的温带风暴潮或台风风暴潮。本文利用所构建的海气耦合数值模型研究了发生于渤海的两种类型的风暴潮，对发生在渤海的2次典型强风暴潮过程进行了模拟。由WRF模型模拟得到的风场强度和最低海平面气压与实测数据吻合较好，由ROMS模型模拟得到的风暴潮期间水位变化过程与潮位站观测结果也吻合较好。对两种类型风暴潮期间的风场结钩、海面风应力、海洋表面平均流场以及水位分布进行了分析对比，并将耦合模型结果与非耦合模型结果进行了对比。研究表明，渤海两种类型风暴潮期间的风场结钩、海面风应力、海洋表面平均流场以及水位分布等均存在巨大差异。渤海风暴潮的强度主要由海洋表面的驱动力所决定，但同时也受海岸地形地貌的影响。     

雷州半岛南部海滩对1720号台风(卡努)的响应研究

海滩风暴响应的观测和研究有助于加深对海滩过程的认识。2017年10月16日台风“卡努”在广东徐闻县沿海登陆, 对雷州半岛南部海滩造成了显著影响。文章通过海滩剖面观测和沉积物采样, 探讨了该区域海滩对台风“卡努”的响应特征, 得出以下主要结论。1) 台风浪作用下, 海滩表层沉积物变粗, 分选性变差。海滩状态朝着更加消散的状态转化, 以缓冲和适应高强度波浪的能量。2) 受到岬角和湾口朝向、大小等因素影响, 各海滩及同一海滩的不同岸段剖面变化表现出差异性。台风作用后海滩可能形成水下沙坝, 或者在海滩上部形成滩肩等特征地形。因此, 研究海滩风暴响应时, 要注意到区域地质地貌的影响。3) 水下礁坪、巨型砂质岬角等因素影响了台风过程灯楼角海滩的变化。对这种海滩–珊瑚礁坪系统的风暴效应, 还需要进行进一步探讨和更详细的观测和研究。     

Investigation and Discussion on the Beach Morphodynamic Response Under Storm Events Based on A Three-Dimensional Numerical Model

A well-established 3D phase-averaged beach morphodynamic model was applied to investigate the morphodynamics of a typical artificial beach,and a series of discussions were made on the surfzone hydro-sedimentological processes under calm and storm events.Model results revealed that the nearshore wave-induced current presents a significant 3D structure under stormy waves,where the undertow and longshore currents exist simultaneously,forming a spirallike circulation system in the surfzone.Continuous longshore sediment transport would shorten the sediment supply in the cross-shore direction,subsequently suppress the formation of sandbars,showing that a typical recovery profile under calm waves does not necessarily develop,but with a competing process of onshore drift,undertow and longshore currents.Sediment transport rate during storms reaches several hundreds of times as those under calm waves,and two storm events contribute approximately 60%to the beach erosion.Sediment transport pattern under calm waves is mainly bed load,but as the fine sands underneath begin to expose,the contribution of suspended load becomes significant.     

Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.     

Spatial and temporal variability of coastal storms in the North Atlantic Basin

Over the past three to four decades, there has been a growing awareness of the important controls exerted by large-scale meteorological events on coastal systems. For example, definitive links are being established between short-term (timescales of 5–10 years) beach dynamics and storm frequency. This paper assesses temporal variability of coastal storms (both tropical and extratropical) and the wave climatology in the North Atlantic Basin (NAB), including the Gulf of Mexico. With both storm types, the empirical record shows decadal scale variability, but neither demonstrates highly significant trends that can be linked conclusively to natural or anthropogenic factors. Tropical storm frequencies have declined over the past two or three decades, which is perhaps related to recent intense and prolonged El Niños. Some forecasts predict higher frequencies of tropical storms like that experienced from the 1920s to the 1960s to occur in coming decades. Results from general circulation models (GCMs) suggest that overall frequencies of tropical storms could decrease slightly, but that there is potential for the generation of more intense hurricanes. These data have important implications for the short-term evolution of coastal systems.

There is strong suggestion that extratropical systems have declined overall over the past 50–100 years, but that there is an increase in frequency of very powerful storms, especially at higher latitudes. Both ENSO and the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) are shown to have associations with frequencies and tracking of these systems. These empirical results are in general agreement with GCM forecasts under global warming scenarios. Analyses of wave climatology in the NAB show that the last two to three decades have been rougher at high latitudes than several decades prior, but this more recent sea state is similar to conditions from about 100 years ago. The recent roughness at sea seems to be related to high NAO index values, which are also expected to increase with global warming. Thus, when coupled to an anticipated continued rise in global sea level, this trend will likely result in increasing loss of sediment from the beach-nearshore system resulting in widespread coastal erosion.     

Applications of EMD to analyses of high-frequency beachface responses to Storm Bebinca in the Qing'an Bay,Guangdong Province,China

On average, five to six storms occur in the Qiongzhou Strait every year, causing significant damage to coastal geomorphology and several property losses. Tropical Storm Bebinca is the most unusual and complex storm event that has occurred in this region over the last 10 years. To detect the high-frequency beachface responses to the storm, a pressure sensor was deployed in the surf zone to record the free sea surface height, and the heights of grid pile points on the beachface were measured manua...     

Sensitivity of hurricane surge to morphological parameters of coastal wetlands

Given the history and future risk of storm surge in the United States, functional storm protection techniques are needed to protect vital sectors of the economy and coastal communities. It is widely hypothesized that coastal wetlands offer protection from storm surge and wave action, though the extent of this protection is unknown due to the complexities of flow through vegetation. Here we present the sensitivity of storm-surge numerical modeling results to various coastal wetlands characteristics. An idealized grid domain and 400-km² marsh feature were used to evaluate the effects of marsh characteristics on hurricane surge, including the effects of bottom friction, elevation, and continuity (the ratio of healthy marsh to open water area within the total wetland area).Through coupled hydrodynamic and wave model simulations, it is confirmed that increased bottom friction reduces storm-surge levels for most storms. However, increases in depth associated with marsh elevation loss generally results in a reduction of surge. As marsh continuity is decreased, coastal surge increases as a result of enhanced surge conveyance into and out of the marsh. Storm surge is parameterized in terms of marsh morphology, namely marsh elevation, frictional characteristics, and degree of segmentation, which will assist in the justification for and optimization of marsh restoration in terms of storm protection.