Field Observation and Analysis of Wave-Current-Sediment Movement in Caofeidian Sea Area in the Bohai Bay, China

In order to study the mechanism of flow-sediment movement, it is essential to obtain measured data of water hydrodynamic and sediment concentration process with high spatial and temporal resolution in the bottom boundary layer (BBL). Field observations were carried out in the northwest Caofeidian sea area in the Bohai Bay. Near 2 m isobath (under the lowest tidal level), a tripod system was installed with AWAC (Acoustic Wave And Current), ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers), OBS-3A (Optical Backscatter Point Sensor), ADV (Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters), etc. The accurate measurement of the bottom boundary layer during a single tidal period was carried out, together with a long-term sediment concentration measurement under different hydrological conditions. All the measured data were used to analyze the characteristics of wave-current-sediment movement and the BBL. Analysis was performed on flow structure, shear stress, roughness, eddy viscosity and other parameters of the BBL. Two major findings were made. Firstly, from the measured data, the three-layer distribution model of the velocity profiles and eddy viscosities in the wave-current BBL are proposed in the observed sea area; secondly, the sediment movement is related closely to wind-waves in the muddy coast area where sediment is clayey silt: 1) The observed suspended sediment concentration under light wind conditions is very low, with the peak value generally smaller than 0.1 kg/m3 and the average value being 0.03 kg/m3; 2) The sediment concentration increases continuously under the gales over 6-7 in Beaufort scale, under a sustained wind action. The measured peak sediment concentration at 0.4 m above the seabed is 0.15-0.32 kg/m3, and the average sediment concentration during wind-wave action is 0.08-0.18 kg/m3, which is about 3-6 times the value under light wind conditions. The critical wave height signaling remarkable changes of sediment concentration is 0.5 m. The results show that the suspended load sediment concentration is mainly influenced by wave-induced sediment suspension.     

ADCP measurements of suspended sediment flux at the entrance to Jiaozhou Bay, western Yellow Sea

The purpose of the present contribution is to explore the technique to use Acoustic Doppler Current Pro- filers （ADCPs） for suspended sediment flux measurements, which may be applied to coastal embayment environments such as estuaries and tidal inlets for sediment exchange and budget studies. Based on tidal cycle measurements from the entrance of ]iaozhou Bay, Shandong Peninsula, eastern China, statistical rela- tionships between the suspended sediment concentration （SSC） and ADCP echo intensity output are estab- lished. Echo intensity data obtained during an ADCP survey along two cross-sections during a spring tidal phase were transformed into SSC data. The ADCP current velocity and SSC data were then used to calculate the flux of fine-grained sediment. The results show that net sediment transport at the entrance is directed towards the open sea, with an order of magnitude of 103 t per spring tidal cycle; hence, although Jiaozhou Bay is a low SSC environment, the tidally induced suspended sediment transport can be intense.     

夏季浙江沿岸陆架区泥沙输运机制

基于2014年夏季浙江沿岸陆架区的水文、泥沙、底质沉积物等实测资料,运用物质通量分析方法和Gao-Collins粒径趋势分析法,探讨了泥沙的输运通量、输运方向、动力机制及净输运趋势。夏季,近岸含沙量规律性较强,由西至东逐渐降低,由南至北逐渐升高,且与潮流有非常好的对应关系,呈现出明显的潮周期变化特征。研究区净悬沙通量自岸向外海迅速变小,悬沙输运中平流输运占主导地位,其次是垂向净环流对悬沙输运的影响,近岸海域表现为向海输沙,30 m以深海域表现为东北向输沙,同时台湾暖流的屏障作用也影响了悬沙向海扩散。粒径趋势分析显示浙江沿岸陆架表层沉积物的长期输运机制为由东北向西南输运,在流系以及海底地形的影响下,中部海域出现粒径趋势较弱的沉积中心。而在夏季,悬浮泥沙主要为平行岸线向东北输运,估算每天进入研究海域的净悬浮泥沙约为1.9×106 t。     

Contribution of hydrodynamic conditions during shallow water stages to the sediment balance on a tidal flat: Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, Normandy, France

Field measurements were conducted in Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, a megatidal embayment (spring tidal range of 15 m), in order to monitor, over the course of a tidal cycle, sediment transport variability due to waves and tides on the upper part of a tidal flat characterised by shallow water depths. Sensors used to measure currents, water depth and turbidity were installed just above the bed (0.04 m). Two experiments were conducted under contrasting hydrodynamic conditions. The results highlight wave activity over the tidal flat even though observed wind waves were largely dissipated due to the very shallow water depths. Very high suspended sediment concentrations (up to 6 kg/m³) were recorded in the presence of wave activity at the beginning of the local flood, when significant sediment transport occurred, up to 7 times as much as under conditions of no wave activity. This influence may be attributed to the direct action of waves on bed sediments, to wave-induced liquefaction, and to the erosive action of waves on tidal channel banks. The sediment composition, comprising a clay fraction of 2-5%, may also enhance sediment transport by reducing critical shear stress through the sand lubrication effect. The results also show that antecedent meteorological conditions play an important role in suspended sediment transport on the tidal flat. Total sediment flux directions show a net transport towards the inner part of the bay that contributes to deposition over the adjacent salt marshes, and this tendency also prevails during strong wave conditions. Such sediment transport is characterised by significant variability over the course of the tidal cycle. During fair and moderate weather conditions, 83% and 71% of the total flux was observed, respectively, over only 11% and 28% of the duration of the local tidal cycle and with water depths between 0.04 and 0.3 m. These results suggest that in order to improve our understanding of sediment budgets in this type of coastal environment, it is essential to record data just at the beginning and at the end of tidal submergence close to the bed.     

长江口北支悬沙浓度在潮周期内和大小潮周期尺度的变化特征及输运研究

Profiles of tidal current and suspended sediment concentration(SSC) were measured in the North Branch of the Changjiang Estuary from neap tide to spring tide in April 2010. The measurement data were analyzed to determine the characteristics of intratidal and neap-spring variations of SSC and suspended sediment transport. Modulated by tidal range and current speed, the tidal mean SSC increased from 0.5 kg/m3 in neap tide to 3.5 kg/m3 in spring tide. The intratidal variation of the depth-mean SSC can be summarized into three types: V-shape variation in neap tide, M-shape and mixed M-V shape variation in medium and spring tides. The occurrence of these variation types is controlled by the relative intensity and interaction of resuspension, settling and impact of water exchange from the rise and fall of tide. In neap tide the V-shape variation is mainly due to the dominant effect of the water exchange from the rise and fall of tide. During medium and spring tides, resuspension and settling processes become dominant. The interactions of these processes, together with the sustained high ebb current and shorter duration of low-tide slack, are responsible for the M-shape and M-V shape SSC variation. Weakly consolidated mud and high current speed cause significant resuspension and remarkable flood and ebb SSC peaks. Settling occurs at the slack water periods to cause SSC troughs and formation of a thin fluff layer on the bed. Fluxes of water and suspended sediment averaged over the neap-spring cycle are all seawards, but the magnitude and direction of tidal net sediment flux is highly variable.     

Field studies of velocity,salinity and suspended solids concentration in a shallow tidal channel near tidal flap gates

The design and operation of mathematical models of solute mixing and sediment transport in estuaries rely heavily on the provision of good-quality field data. We present some observations of salinity, suspended sediment concentration and velocity at one of the tidal limits of a semi-enclosed tidal lagoon in Southern England (Pagham Harbour, West Sussex, UK) where the natural processes of tidal incursion and solute mixing have been heavily modified as a result of the construction of sea walls dating back to the 18th Century. These observations, made immediately downstream of two parallel tidal flap gates by conductivity-temperature-depth (CTD) profiler, and also using bed-mounted sensor frames to measure velocity at 2 fixed depths, have yielded a set of results covering 11 tidal cycles over the period 2002–04. It is clear from the results obtained that over a typical tidal cycle, the greatest vertical salinity gradients occur in the 1–2 h immediately after the onset of the flood tide, and that subsequently, energetic mixing acts to rapidly break down this stratification. Under moderate-to-high fresh water flows (>0.5 m³/s), the break-down in vertical salinity gradient is more gradual, while under low fresh water flows (<0.2 m³/s), the vertical salinity gradient is generally less pronounced. Estimates of Richardson number during the early flood-tide period reveal values that vary rapidly between <1 and about 20, with lower values occurring after around 1.5–2 h after low water. Observations of suspended sediment concentration vary widely even for similar tidal and fresh water flow conditions, revealing the possible influence of wind speed, the storage effects of the water in the lagoon downstream of the observation site, and the complexity of the hydrodynamics downstream of tidal flap gates. The data also show that most of the sediment transport is landward, and occurs during flood tides, with estimated total tidal landward flood tide flux of fine sediment of the order of 50–120 kg under low fresh water flow conditions. These observations, which reinforce the results presented in Warner et al. (2004) and elsewhere, can help to provide information about the appropriate techniques for managing sediments and pollutants, including nutrients from sewage effluent waters, in estuaries where hydraulic flap gates are used to control the entry of fresh water over the tidal cycle.     

杭州湾枯季水沙若干特征分析

根据2014年1月及2017年2月杭州湾大、小潮水沙资料,计算了流速、含沙量、单宽潮量、单宽输沙量,进而分析了潮周期断面净潮量、净输沙量和区域冲淤分布。研究发现杭州湾涨、落潮平均流速比值整体较20世纪八九十年代增大,绝大部分区域大于1.0,涨潮流相对增强,澉浦南岸和金山北岸尤为显著。含沙量平面上分布澉浦、杭州湾南岸两个高值区(大潮大于3 kg/m³,小潮大于1.3 kg/m³)以及北岸湾口至乍浦之间的低值区(大潮小于2 kg/m³,小潮小于0.9 kg/m³),随潮汛变化显著,最大含沙量浓度通常滞后于急流时刻。各测站涨、落潮量和输沙量呈现“大涨大落”和“大进大出”的特征,造成杭州湾短时间尺度内的“大冲大淤”。大潮两涨两落金山与乍浦、乍浦与澉浦之间区域净输沙量可达几千万吨,净冲淤则在几百万吨。     

江苏如东西太阳沙及烂沙洋海域潮流泥沙数值模拟

基于不规则三角形网格有限差分法并考虑波浪及其破碎作用,建立了平面二维潮流场和泥沙场数学模型.该模型对有望建设成深水码头和深水航道的江苏如东西太阳沙和烂沙洋海域的潮流场和泥沙场进行了细化数值模拟.数值模拟结果表明：（1）本海区潮流基本上是顺深槽流动的往复流,潮流流速大,烂沙洋北水道和西太阳沙附近大潮涨落潮最大流速分别在2 m/s和1 m/s以上;（2）本海区的潮平均水体含沙量在0.5 kg/m^3以下,落潮含沙量大于涨潮含沙量;（3）小浪对水体含沙量影响很小,大浪作用下水体含沙量明显增加.     

伶仃洋河口泥沙絮凝特征及影响因素研究

泥沙絮凝对河口细颗粒泥沙运动过程起着极其重要的作用。本文通过LISST-100激光粒度仪等仪器实测伶仃洋河口2013年洪季悬浮泥沙絮凝体现场粒径及水动力、泥沙条件,结合实验室悬沙粒径分析,研究大小潮期间伶仃洋河口泥沙絮凝特征,探讨紊动剪切强度、含沙量、盐度分层及波浪等因素对伶仃洋河口泥沙絮凝的影响。结果表明:伶仃洋河口水体中现场粒径平均值为148.53 μm,大于实验室悬沙分散粒径36.74 μm,河口絮凝现象明显;沉速与有效密度、粒径呈正相关,絮团平均有效密度为153.49 kg/m3,平均沉速达1.13 mm/s;小潮时絮团平均粒径大于大潮,垂向上表底层絮团粒径小、中层大,中底层絮团沉速大于表层。伶仃洋河口水动力、泥沙条件是影响其泥沙絮凝的重要因素,低剪切强度（小于5 s-1）、低含沙量（小于50 mg/L）及高体积浓度有利于细颗粒泥沙之间的相互碰撞,促进絮凝作用;当剪切强度与颗粒间碰撞强度高于絮团所能承受的强度时,絮团易破碎分解成小絮团或更细的泥沙颗粒;伶仃洋河口盐度层化引起的泥沙捕获现象增大中层泥沙体积浓度,有利于中层絮凝体的发育;观测期相对较大的波浪增强水体紊动,增大了水体细颗粒泥沙的碰撞几率,表层絮团粒径随波高峰值的出现而增大。     

上海洋山深水港区海域悬沙分布特征及运动规律分析

以1998年以来定点实测含沙量资料为基础,结合1996-2007年不同时刻卫星遥感影像资料对洋山港附近海域悬沙分布特征及运动规律进行分析,结果表明:洋山港海域含沙量存在着明显的季节变化;潮差越大,水体紊动越强,水体含沙量越高;洋山港水域含沙量明显高于其周围的水域,特别是在大小洋山岛链之间,呈现由北向南、由东向西逐渐增大的趋势;"峡岛效应"也是引起高含沙量一个重要原因;长江入海泥沙直接扩散对洋山港水体含沙量的影响较小,研究区域水体含沙量的大小主要取决于波况及潮流对当地浅滩的掀扬及输送.     

长江口北槽抛泥流速和悬沙浓度时空分布观测

河口泥沙运动有其独特的规律,需要采用高分辨率的观测手段进行系统的现场观测,以此发现河口流速和泥沙分布结构,进而探讨其形成机制,应用声学多普勒流速剖面仪和声学悬浮泥沙观测系统,通过定点和走航式观测长江河口不同潮型和流态下流速和悬浮泥沙浓度时空分布发现:(1)不同潮型出现高浓度“事件”的次数和成因存在差异,中潮型出现高浓度“事件”的可能性最大;(2)抛泥泥沙浓度垂向分布至少有3种结构类型,即上小下大的“L”型、指数型和上大下小的“漂浮”型;(3)受抛泥泥沙输移的影响,断面流场形成低流速区,它们的强度随落潮流的扩散逐渐减弱;(4)不同潮型的落潮流表现出不同的输移行为,大、小潮型落潮流偏北,中潮型落潮流偏南;(5)在落潮流和颗粒重力共同作用下抛泥泥沙同时存在输移扩散和沉降过程,小潮型抛泥泥沙主要就近扩散和沉降,中潮和大潮型抛泥泥沙输移扩散范围较远。     

Dynamics of the turbidity maximum in King Sound, tropical Western Australia

King Sound is a 100-km-long embayment located in tropical northwestern Australia with a spring tidal range of 11 m. This is the second largest tide in the world after the Bay of Fundy in Canada. Intertidal areas cover about 800 km². The upper reaches of the sound are turbid with fine suspended sediment concentration reaching 3 kg m⁻³. Field studies of the dynamics of water and fine sediment were carried out in the dry seasons of 1997 and 1998. The tide was a propagating wave, shoaling and dissipating by friction as it entered the sound. This mode of propagation generated an asymmetric tidal current with a stronger current at flood than at ebb. An evaporation-driven salinity maximum zone was found in the upper reaches of the sound, and this was also where the turbidity maximum occurred. Tidal pumping by the tidal asymmetry and, possibly, the biological filter formed by muddy marine snow, trapped the fine sediment in the upper regions of King Sound. Wind-driven waves contributed significantly to entrainment of bottom fine sediment, possibly through wave pumping of the sediment and not wave-induced orbital velocities. Field data suggest that erosion of bottom fine sediment was proportional to the sixth power of the tidal current and the third power of the wave height.     

Observations on silt and sand transport in the throat section of the Frisian Inlet

The Frisian Inlet is one of the tidal basins of the Dutch Wadden Sea. In 1969, its basin area was reduced by 30%. As documented by bathymetric surveys, this has led to an import of sediment of 30×10⁶ m³ over the first 18 years. The study presented in this paper seeks to establish the mechanisms responsible for the passage of the sediment through the throat cross-section of the inlet channel. Emphasis is on a 14-day period of relative calm when sediment transport can be attributed solely to tidal currents. Use is made of continuous measurements of velocity, sand and silt concentration. The measurement station was located on one side of the throat cross-section in a water depth of approximately 6 m. For both the sand and silt fraction of the sediment, suspended load transport is the dominant transport mode. It is shown that for sand, concentration variations and net transport are determined by the local (in the throat section) velocity. Especially the residual velocity and tidal velocity asymmetry play an important role in the net sand flux. For silt, except for transport associated with locally generated vertical mixing, the net transport is largely determined by sedimentation–erosion processes in the basin and the silt concentration in the North Sea. Comparison with measurements in a station located in the middle of the throat section shows considerable difference in residual velocity and tidal velocity asymmetry. As a result, the sediment fluxes also differ. Accurately determining the net sediment flux in the throat section would require a dense net of measurement stations.     

基于ADCP反演渤海湾悬浮体浓度年变化

基于座底ADCP实测回波强度信号,结合短期实测悬浮体质量浓度,反演长时间序列悬浮体质量浓度,定量分析了渤海湾近一年悬浮体质量浓度变化特征及其影响因素。结果表明:受风浪影响,该区悬浮体质量浓度具有明显季节性变化特征,风浪作用强烈的季节其悬浮体浓度表现为相对高值。悬浮体净输运同样具明显季节性变化,秋冬强风浪作用下,悬浮体的净输运量明显增加;而在不同季节,月净输运方向具有不同的主输运方向。悬浮体质量浓度日变化受潮流控制明显,长周期变化则主要与风场的变化有关。潮流涨急过程与风致大浪过程均可引起沉积物再悬浮,导致悬浮体浓度明显增高。     

Wave-induced Maintenance of Suspended Sediment Concentration during Slack in a Tidal Channel on a Sheltered Macro-tidal Flat,Gangwha Island,Korea

A field campaign was conducted to better understand the influence of wave action, in terms of turbulence and bed shear stress, on sediment resuspension and transport processes on a protected tidal flat. An H-frame was deployed in a tidal channel south of Gangwha Island for 6 tidal cycles during November 2006 with instrumentation including an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter, an Acoustic Backscatter System, and an Optical Backscatter Sensor. During calm conditions, the current-induced shear was dominant and responsible for suspending sediments during the accelerating phases of flood and ebb. During the high-tide slack, both bed shear stress and suspended sediment concentration were reduced. The sediment flux was directed landward due to the scour-lag effect over a tidal cycle. On the other hand, when waves were stronger, the wave-induced turbulence appeared to keep sediments in suspension even during the high-tide slack, while the current-induced shear remained dominant during the accelerating phases of flood and ebb. The sediment flux under strong waves was directed offshore due to the sustained high suspended sediment concentration during the high-tide slack. Although strong waves can induce offshore sediment flux, infrequent events with strong waves are unlikely to alter the long-term accretion of the protected southern Gangwha tidal flats.     

Relationship between eddy viscosity of seawater and eddy diffusivity of suspended particles

A method is described to calculate the relationship (β) between the eddy diffusivity of suspended particles and the eddy viscosity of the fluid. The data were obtained while making suspended sediment concentration measurements near the seabed on the British continental shelf. β was calculated for 0.50 size fractions and varies inversely with the suspended sediment concentration. The values were used successfully to calculate suspended sediment transport rates for separate sand fractions through a spring tidal cycle. Finally, specific values of β are suggested for varying concentrations of sand at a reference height of 100 cm above the seabed.     

Pathways of suspended particles transport in the bottom layer of the southern Baltic Sea depending on the wind forcing (Numerical Simulation)

A random-walk model for a nonuniform diffusivity media coupled with an ocean circulation model has been applied to describe the pathways of suspended particles transport in the bottom boundary layer (BBL) of the southern Baltic Sea. The circulation model is based on the Princeton Ocean Model, in which the vertical grid size is logarithmically refined towards the bottom in order to resolve the BBL. Fields of the flow velocity and eddy diffusivities simulated by the POM, along with the settling velocity of the suspended particles, are used as an input for the random-walk model. A number of numerical experiments were performed to study the pathways of suspended particles in the southern Baltic BBL depending on the wind conditions. In particular, the suspended particles introduced into the BBL in the center of the Bornholm Basin at westerly and southerly winds are found to be trapped in the basin provided that the particles’ settling velocity is equal or greater than 2 m/day. The trapping phenomenon is explained by the combined effect of the Ekman transport convergence in the BBL due to the cyclonic gyre and the gravitational settling of the particles.     

Wintertime suspended sediment simulation in the Huanghai and East China Seas

A simulation of suspended sediment movement relating to tidal and wave forcing during a winter monsoon in November 1983 in the Huanghai and East China Seas continental shelf is attempted by using the model describing the cohesive/non-cohesive sediment resuspension generated by interactions between currents and waves.model simulation showed that sediment concentration was increased by resuspension at shallow depths during the strong storm conditions due to high bottom stress interacted between currents and waves. This result is in general agreement with observations in horizontal distribution of suspended sediment distribution.At three current meter mooring positions off the southern Shandong Peninsula resuspension occurred only at a depth of 22m,nearest coastal position and at deeper parts at depths of 51 and 80m wave-current interaction effects were not significant. It has shown that the present model simulation demonstrated the capability of reproduction of suspended sediment movement under wintertime extreme event reasonably well.     

长江口横沙东滩外侧建设人工岛的自然条件分析

利用2001-2008年的海图资料和2011-2012年枯季现场水文调查数据,分析长江口横沙东滩外侧海域的河势、水动力条件及泥沙含量的潮周期过程,讨论在此建设人工岛的自然条件。结果表明,横沙东滩外侧海域,2001-2008年间冲淤有变化,由滩向海的断面显示上部淤积,下部侵蚀,冲淤转换面在-7~-10m之间,-10~-20m海域整体呈现微冲趋势,但侵蚀速率减缓,河势趋于稳定。横沙东滩受北槽深水航道北导堤影响,向东南方向淤进。定点船测潮流表现出旋转流性质,枯季大潮最大流速不超过188cm/s,小潮最大流速小于134cm/s;北港口外的定点余流显示向口内输运,北槽口外则是向海输运。两测站数据显示枯季大小潮垂线平均含沙量处于0.061~0.116kg/m3之间,水体泥沙含量整体处在较低水平。从自然条件上来说,不考虑风浪影响情况,研究区域内河势渐趋稳定,水深条件良好,水动力条件适宜,水体含沙量较低,在该区域内建设人工岛具有可行性。     

Studies of a mangrove basin,Tuff Crater,New Zealand: III. The flux of organic and inorganic particulate matter

Water samples were collected at 15 min intervals over 11 tidal cycles from a tidal creek draining the mangrove-covered basin of Tuff Crater, Auckland, New Zealand. The samples were filtered and total suspended sediment (TSS), inorganic suspended sediment (ISS) and organic suspended sediment (OSS) were determined. Variation in TSS was high, the concentration varied over a tidal cycle and during over-bank flows concentrations were lowest at or near slack high water. Covariance between TSS concentrations and velocity and discharge meant that the calculation of particulate matter flux over tidal hemicycles was particularly dependent on the method of estimating tidal flux. The hypsometrically-based volumetric method was found to be inappropriate, predicting a positive budget (import) more often than observed. Instead particulate matter budgets were calculated by means of the velocity-area method and indicate a net export of TSS, ISS and OSS. Floating macrodetritus was observed on both the flood and ebb tides, but a net export was found on the two tides monitored. It is considered that on an annual basis floating macrodetritus export accounts for less than 2% of the detrital production in the basin, and organic suspended sediment export from the basin is less than 3 kg C ha^?1 day^?1 and is below the rate of detrital production. It is implied that a proportion of the organic detritus produced in this basin is degraded and recycled in situ.