基于破碎临界区的新型拍岸浪统计计算模型研究

When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calcula...     

On the largest wave height in water of constant depth

Experimental evidence of the fact that, both in the laboratory and in the field, the largest wave height to water depth ratio realisable for oscillatory waves propagating in water of constant depth is about 0.55, has been published recently (Nelson, 1985); (Nelson, 1987); (Nelson, 1994). This paper presents various theoretical approaches to estimate this maximum value. In particular, the higher approximations of the Stokes and cnoidal theories give a much higher limiting wave height, close to 0.78 h, which is commonly used in engineering practice.However, the inclusion of higher harmonics, generated by a wave-maker paddle, into the analysis provides maximum wave height less than ≈ 0.6 h, which is in good agreement with observations.     

A joint distribution of significant wave height and characteristic surf parameter

The paper provides a joint distribution of significant wave height and characteristic surf parameter. The characteristic surf parameter is given by the ratio between the slope of a beach or a structure and the square root of the characteristic wave steepness in deep water defined in terms of the significant wave height and the spectral peak period. The characteristic surf parameter is used to characterize surf zone processes and is relevant for e.g. wave run-up on beaches and coastal structures. The paper presents statistical properties of the wave parameters as well as an example of results corresponding to typical field conditions.     

Improved form of wind wave frequency spectrum

The lower frequency part of the theoretical wind wave spectrum proposed by the authors (Wen et al. , 1988a, b,c) has been improved and the form of spectrum is appreciably simplified. In addition to the field data collected in the Bohai Sea region and used in the previous papers, those obtained in the Huanghai Sea, the East China Sea and the South China Sea have been employed so that the improved spectra can be verified on a more extensive observational basis. Computed results agree with the observations well. Further comparisons have been made between the proposed spectra and the JONSWAP spectrum. Though the two types of spectrum are close to each other in form, the former shows, as a whole, better agreement with the observation than the latter. By introducing an improved relation between the peak-ness factor and significant wave steepness, the spectrum contains only significant wave height and period as parameters. For spectra given in this form, the computed peak frequencies coincide approximately wit     

Extreme wave crest distribution by direct numerical simulations of long-crested nonlinear wave fields

The wave crest height qualification checks are required during the wave calibration before the model test in wave basin. However, the reliable criteria of nonlinear wave crest probability distribution in 3-h duration (full-scale) has not been well established yet. We investigate wave crest-height statistics of long-crested nonlinear wave fields using high-order spectral (HOS) method, which can take the effects of both second-order bound waves and third-order free waves into account. The energy dissipation effects due to wave breaking were included by employing an eddy viscosity model. Sensitivity analyses to the wave breaking onset criterion have been performed. Validation is provided by comparing the obtained numerical results with the available calibration test data. Based on extensive and direct numerical simulations, semi-empirical single realization distributions for wave calibration have been developed through 3-parameter Weibull fitting and systematic regression analyses. Particular attention has been paid to the tail of upper bound of wave crest distributions. The effects of wave steepness and water depth on the maximum wave crest height in 3-h duration have been examined. It is found that with the increase of wave steepness, the extreme wave crest height increases until it reaches a critical value. In addition, for the scale water depth k_ph < 1.36, the maximum crest height decreases as the water depth increases, while in the opposite case the maximum crest height increases as the water depth increases. Moreover, it is confirmed that that the fourth-order nonlinearity does not have significant effects on the distribution of the wave crest height.     

Free-surface evolution and wave kinematics for nonlinear uni-directional focused wave groups

This paper concerns the propagation of transient wave groups, focused at a point in time and space to produce locally large waves having a range of steepness. The experimental study was carried out in a wave flume at Dalian University of Technology. The numerical simulations were based on a nonlinear boundary integral equation solved by a higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM). Rather than simulate the whole experimental tank, local surface elevation measurements were used to drive the numerical solution from a point less than two wavelengths upstream of the focus position, leading to significant savings in computational time. Excellent agreement is achieved between the water surface elevations and the water particle kinematics measured in the experiments and those predicted numerically at wave group focus, even for near-breaking waves up to a steepness of kA=0.405 for which even locally matched 2nd-order theory is inadequate. Results based on the linear and 2nd-order theory are also presented in the comparisons. When compared with the first- and 2nd-order solutions, the fully nonlinear wave–wave interactions produce a steeper wave envelope in which the central wave crest is higher and narrower, while the adjacent wave troughs are broader and less deep.     

波浪非线性对海草消波特性的影响

海草所形成的植物消波体系能有效防止岸线的侵蚀。利用Sánchez-González等的实验数据分析了波浪非线性对海草消波特性的影响。研究结果表明，相对水深和波陡对海草床的波能衰减系数影响依赖于海草淹没度。相对波高一定时，拖曳力系数随相对水深的增大而增大。对给定的相对水深，拖曳力系数随波陡的增大而减小。波浪非线性对于规则波和非规则波海草消波特性的影响并不一致。用无量纲参数（邱卡数、雷诺数、厄塞尔数）表达拖曳力系数的效果取决于拖曳力系数与无量纲参数的关系中是否充分考虑波浪非线性对拖曳力系数的影响。     

Has wind–wave modeling reached its limit?

This article uses a comparison of four different numerical wave prediction models for hindcast wave conditions in Lake Michigan during a 10-day episode in October 1988 to illustrate that typical wave prediction models based on the concept of a wave energy spectrum may have reached a limit in the accuracy with which they can simulate realistic wave generation and growth conditions. In the hindcast study we compared the model results to observed wave height and period measurements from two deep water NOAA/NDBC weather buoys and from a nearshore Waverider buoy. Hourly wind fields interpolated from a large number of coastal and overlake observations were used to drive the models. The same numerical grid was used for all the models. The results show that while the individual model predictions deviate from the measurements by various amounts, they all tend to reflect the general trend and patterns of the wave measurements. The differences between the model results are often similar in magnitude to differences between model results and observations. Although the four models tested represent a wide range of sophistication in their treatment of wave growth dynamics, they are all based on the assumption that the sea state can be represented by a wave energy spectrum. Because there are more similarities among the model results than significant differences, we believe that this assumption may be the limiting factor for substantial improvements in wave modeling.     

深水极端波浪非线性几何特征试验分析

为了解极端波浪非线性特征,明确波群在演化过程中的水动力学特性,针对一系列高斯波群进行了深水物理试验分析。试验结果显示,增加波陡或波群宽度,均可使波面偏度Sk发生明显变化,尤其当波浪发生破碎后,在破碎区域内,波面偏度变化范围剧烈增大,说明该偏度极大值可能作为判断破碎的一个指标。波陡和波群宽度对波面不对称度影响程度不同:当波陡或波群宽度增加后,波峰不对称度所受影响最大,波峰前端波谷不对称度次之,波峰后端波谷不对称度所受影响最小,但仍不可忽略。在波浪演化过程中,幅值谱出现不同程度频带下移,波浪破碎后,会出现永久频带下移;当调制不稳定发生时,随着调制不稳定指数增加,频带下移量呈现快速增长趋势。     

Steepness and asymmetry of extreme waves and the highest waves in deep water

Traditional wave steepness s=H/L does not define steep asymmetric waves in a random sea uniquey. Three additional parameters characterising single zero-downcross waves in a time series are crest front steepness, vertical asymmetry factor and horizontal asymmetry factor. Results for steepness and asymmetry from zero-downcross analysis of wave data obtained from full scale measurements in deep water on the Norwegian continental shelf in 58 time series are presented. The analysis demonstrates clearly the asymmetry of both “extreme waves” and the highest waves. The period and height of the highest waves are also given together with their correlation to spectral parameters. The measured maximum wave heights are also compared with predicted values of maximum wave heights showing good agreement.     

Laboratory investigation on wave transmission through two rows of perforated hollow piles

Experimental investigations on perforated hollow piles in two rows were conducted in a two dimensional wave flume. The influence of water depth, incident wave steepness, clear spacing between the piles and the spacing of pile rows on transmission coefficient have been studied. The effect of staggering of piles in rows is investigated. The results are also compared with the results of experiments on piles without perforations. The investigations have revealed that perforated piles attenuate more wave energy than non-perforated piles. The transmission coefficient K_t decreases as the wave steepness increases for both non-perforated and perforated piles. For non-perforated piles as relative clear spacing between the piles (b/D) decreases, for waves of higher steepness, K_t decreases while for perforated piles as b/D decreases, K_t is decreasing for all the steepness considered. As the relative clear spacing between the pile rows (B/D) increases K_t initially decreases till B/D is around one and later it starts increasing for both non-perforated and perforated piles. Staggering of piles has little effect on K_t. It is also found that water depth has insignificant influence on transmission coefficient at higher steepness for both perforated and non-perforated piles. Wave period alone does not directly influence transmission coefficient K_t.     

应用特征波预报公式进行台风浪计算的一个根本缺陷

Wilson方法和井岛方法均是移动风区上著名的波浪推算方法,被广泛应用于台风波浪的推算和预报上。本文通过分析指出:使用上述方法以海洋工程界所推行的风浪预报公式作台风浪推算时,所得特征波波陡将与台风浪实测波陡分布定性不符,并指出产生这种缺陷的原因。     

再论台风波浪的波型及其与海岸工程设计波浪要素的关系

本文以实测台风波浪资料对台风影响过程中固定点波浪能量集中度的变化和有效波陡的变化进行分析，得出华南近岸浅水区台风波浪的波型与台风中心位置的统计关系，并进一步阐明了台风过程中固定点出现较大台风波浪的波型是风浪以及用于海岸工程设计的台风波浪亦为风浪的结论。文中还讨论了台风波浪波型对海岸工程建设中的设计波高、周期等要素取值的影响。     

Observations of freak waves in random wave field in 2D experimental wave flume

Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI.     

Evaluation of two spectral wave models for wave hindcasting in the Mackenzie Delta

Climate change, reduced sea ice and increased ice-free waters over extended areas for longer summer periods potentially lead to increased wave energy in the Beaufort Sea (Wang et al., 2015; Khon et al., 2014) [1], [2], which is a major concern for coastal and offshore engineering activities. We compare two spectral wave models SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) and MIKE 21 SW (hereafter MIKE21) in simulations of storm-generated waves in the Mackenzie Delta region of the southern Beaufort Sea. SWAN model simulations are performed using two nested grids system, whereas MIKE21 uses an unstructured grid system. Forcing fields are defined by hourly hindcast winds. Moving ice edge boundaries are incorporated during storm simulations. Modelled wave spectra from four storms are shown to compare well with field observations. Two established whitecapping formulations in SWAN are investigated: one dependent on mean spectral wave steepness, and the other on local spectral steepness. For the Beaufort Sea study area, we suggest that SWAN wave simulations using the latter local spectral steepness formulation are better than those using the former mean spectral steepness formulation. MIKE21 simulations also tend to agree with SWAN results using the latter whitecapping formulation.     

Effects of high-order nonlinear interactions on unidirectional wave trains

Numerical simulations of gravity waves with high-order nonlinearities in two-dimensional domain are performed by using the pseudo spectral method. High-order nonlinearities more than third order excite apparently chaotic evolutions of the Fourier energy in deep water random waves. The high-order nonlinearities increase kurtosis, wave height distribution and H_max/H_1/3 in deep water and decrease these wave statistics in shallow water. Moreover, they can generate a single extreme high wave with an outstanding crest height in deep water. High-order nonlinearities (more than third order) can be regarded as one cause of freak waves in deep water.     

Extreme value statistics for wave run-up on a natural beach

Statistics of wave run-up maxima have been calculated for 149 35-minutes data runs from a natural beach. During the experiment incident wave height varied from 0.4 to 4.0 m, incident wave period from 6 to 16 s, and beach face slope from 0.07 to 0.20. Four extreme statistics were calculated; the maximum run-up height during each run, the 2% exceedence level of shoreline elevation, the 2% exceedence height for individual run-up peaks, and the 2% exceedence level for swash height as determined by the zero-upcrossing method. These statistics were best parameterized when normalized by the incident significant wave height and plotted against the Iribarren number, ξ = β/(H/L₀)^1/2. The swash data (with set-up removed) showed less scatter than total run-up (with set-up included). For Iribarren number greater than 1.5 the run-up was dominated by the incident frequencies, for lower Iribarren number longer period motions dominated the swash. A reasonable value of wave steepness for a fully developed storm sea is 0.025 so that a storm Iribarren number can be estimated as 6.3 times the beach slope. Using this and an offshore design wave height, the included graphs may provide guidance in determining a design run-up height.     

A comparison of weakly and fully non-linear models of the shoaling of a solitary internal wave

This study investigates the behaviour of internal solitary waves crossing a continental slope in the presence of a seasonal thermocline. Comparisons are made between a fully non-linear computational fluid dynamics (CFD) model, and weakly non-linear theory. Previous observations suggested that the amplitudes of solitary waves are capped as they pass across the continental slope, which may be due to laminar dynamics, or due to the effect of turbulence. Across the continental slope, CFD and second order variable depth KdV (vEKdV) predictions agree well with observations of a limited change in solitary wave amplitude. First order variable depth KdV theory overpredicts the final amplitude significantly. In terms of the wave shape, the CFD modeled wave changes from a KdV shape in deep water towards an EkdV solution in shallow water, as observations suggest. The phase speed of the CFD and vEKdV waves are similar to that observed in waters of 400–500 m deep, but are slightly lower than observed in 140 m depth. CFD predictions using a standard k, turbulence model showed that turbulence had little effect on the amplitude. These preliminary results indicate that in this situation wave capping is due to laminar, large amplitude solitary wave dynamics and is independent of turbulent mixing.     

Physical model studies on wave transmission of a submerged inclined plate breakwater

This paper examines the results of physical model studies conducted in a monochromatic wave flume, to evaluate the wave transmission characteristics of a submerged plate breakwater consisting of a fixed plate of 0.50 m length and 0.003 m thickness. The model was oriented at varying inclinations and submergence. The influence of wave steepness, relative depth, relative submergence and angle of inclination on wave transmission was analysed. It was found that the horizontal plate is effective for short waves with steepness parameter higher than 5×10^?3 in relative depth grater than 0.21. The plate oriented at an angle of inclination of 60° is found to be effective for the entire ranges of wave parameters considered for the study and it reduces the wave height by about 40%.