A composite numerical model for wave diffraction in a harbor with varying water depth

A composite numerical model is presented for computing the wave field in a harbor. The mild slope equation is discretized by a finite element method in the domain concerned. Out of the computational domain, the water depth is assumed to be constant. The boundary element method is applied to the outer boundary for dealing with the infinite boundary condition. Because the model satisfies strictly the infinite boundary condition, more accurate results can be obtained. The model is firstly applied to compute the wave diffraction in a narrow rectangular bay and the wave diffraction from a porous cylinder. The numerical results are compared with the analytical solution, experimental data and other numerical results. Good agreements are obtained. Then the model is applied to computing the wave diffraction in a square harbor with varying water depth. The effects of the water depth in the harbor and the incoming wave direction on the wave height distribution are discussed.     

A composite numerical model for wave diffraction in a harbor with varying water depth

A composite numerical model is presented for computing the wave field in a harbor. The mild slope equation is discretized by a finite element method in the domain concerned. Out of the computational domain, the water depth is assumed to be constant. The boundary element method is applied to the outer boundary for dealing with the infinite boundary condition. Because the model satisfies strictly the infinite boundary condition, more accurate results can be obtained. The model is firstly applied to compute the wave diffraction in a narrow rectangular bay and the wave diffraction from a porous cylinder. The numerical results are compared with the analytical solution, experimental data and other numerical results. Good agreements are obtained. Then the model is applied to computing the wave diffraction in a square harbor with varying water depth. The effects of the water depth in the harbor and the incoming wave direction on the wave height distribution are discussed.     

修正型缓坡方程的有限元模型

与缓坡方程相比,修正型缓坡方程增加了地形曲率项和坡度平方项,从而提高了数值求解的复杂性。本文将计算域划分为内域和外域,内域为水深变化区域,使用修正型缓坡方程,其中的地形曲率项和坡度平方项可用有限单元各节点的水深信息和单元插值函数表示,外域为水深恒定区,速度势满足Helmholtz方程,通过内外域的边界匹配建立有限元方程,并用高斯消去法求解。进而分别模拟了波浪传过Homma岛和圆形浅滩的变形,其结果与相关的解析解和实验数据吻合良好,证明了本文有限元模型的正确性。同时,通过与实验数据的对比也明显看出,在地形坡度较陡的情况下,修正型缓坡方程较缓坡方程具有更高的计算精度。     

A new kind of nonlinear mild-slope equation for combined refraction-diffraction of multifrequency waves

This paper presents the numerical solution of a new nonlinear mild-slope equation governing waves with different frequency components propagating in a region of varying water depth. There are two new nonlinear equations. The linear part of the equations is the mild-slope equation, and one of the models has the same non-linearity as the Boussinesq equations. The new equations are directly applicable to the problems of nonlinear wave-wave interactions over variable depth. The equations are first simplified with the parabolic approximation, and then solved numerically with a finite difference method. The Crank-Nicolson method is used to discretize the models. The numerical models are applied to a set of published experimental cases, which are nonlinear combined refraction-diffraction with generation of higher harmonic waves. Comparison of the results shows that the present models generally predict the measurements better than other nonlinear numerical models which have been applied to the data set.     

Boundary Element Modeling of Multiconnected Ocean Basin in Visakhapatnam Port Under the Resonance Conditions

A mathematical model has been developed to analyze the influence of extreme water waves over multiconnected regions in Visakhapatnam Port, India by considering an average water depth in each multiconnected regions. In addition, partial reflection of incident waves on coastal boundary is also considered. The domain of interest is divided mainly into two regions, i.e., open sea region and harbor region namely as Region-I and Region-II, respectively. Further, Region-II is divided into multiple connected regions. The 2-D boundary element method (BEM) including the Chebyshev point discretization is utilized to solve the Helmholtz equation in each region separately to determine the wave amplification. The numerical convergence is performed to obtain the optimum numerical accuracy and the validation of the current numerical approach is also conducted by comparing the simulation results with existing studies. The four key spots based on the moored ship locations in Visakhapatnam Port are identified to perform the numerical simulation. The wave amplification at these locations is estimated for monochromatic incident waves, considering approximate water depth and different reflection coefficients on the wall of port under the resonance conditions. In addition, wave field analysis inside the Visakhapatnam Port is also conducted to understand resonance conditions. The current numerical model provides an efficient tool to analyze the amplification on any realistic ports or harbors.

     

浅水中浮体在波浪作用下运动的三维时域计算模型

港口中系泊船在波浪作用下运动问题的本质是浅水波浪与浮体的相互作用。与深水情况不同,浅水问题应当考虑水底、水域边界的影响及浅水波浪自身的特性,单一模型很难实现该模拟过程。为此,建立了Boussinesq方程计算入射波和Laplace方程计算散射波的全时域组合计算模型。有限元法求解的Boussinesq方程能使入射波充分考虑到水底、水域边界的影响和浅水波浪的特性;散射波被线性化,采用边界元法求解,并以浮体运动时的物面条件为入射波和散射波求解的匹配条件。该方法为完全的时域方法,计算网格不随时间变动,计算过程较为方便。通过与实验及其他数值方法的结果进行比较,验证了本模型对非线性波面、浮体的运动都有比较理想的计算结果,显示了本模型对非线性问题具有较好的计算能力。     

A coupled-mode system with application to nonlinear water waves propagating in finite water depth and in variable bathymetry regions

A non-linear coupled-mode system of horizontal equations is presented, modelling the evolution of nonlinear water waves in finite depth over a general bottom topography. The vertical structure of the wave field is represented by means of a local-mode series expansion of the wave potential. This series contains the usual propagating and evanescent modes, plus two additional terms, the free-surface mode and the sloping-bottom mode, enabling to consistently treat the non-vertical end-conditions at the free-surface and the bottom boundaries. The present coupled-mode system fully accounts for the effects of non-linearity and dispersion, and the local-mode series exhibits fast convergence. Thus, a small number of modes (up to 5–6) are usually enough for precise numerical solution. In the present work, the coupled-mode system is applied to the numerical investigation of families of steady travelling wave solutions in constant depth, corresponding to a wide range of water depths, ranging from intermediate depth to shallow-water wave conditions, and its results are compared vs. Stokes and cnoidal wave theories, as well as with fully nonlinear Fourier methods. Furthermore, numerical results are presented for waves propagating over variable bathymetry regions and compared with nonlinear methods based on boundary integral formulation and experimental data, showing good agreement.     

Numerical Simulation of Wave Scour Around A Large-Scale Circular Cylinder

A numerical model is developed for estimation of local scour around a large circular cylinder under vvave action. The model includes wave diffraction around structures, bed shear stress calculation inside the vvave boundary layer and topo-graphical change model. The vvave model is based on the improved Boussinesq equations for varying depth. The vvave boundary layer is calculaled by solving the integrated momentum equation over the boundary layer. The bed shear stress due to streaming, an important factor affecting the sediment transport around a large-scale cylinder, is calculated. The Lagrangian drift velocity is included in calculation of the suspended sediment transport rates. The model is implemented by a finite element method and the results from the present model, which agree well with experimental data, are com-pared vvith those from other methods.     

Nonlinear response of membranes to ocean waves using boundary and finite elements

The behavior of a highly deformable membrane to ocean waves was studied by coupling a nonlinear boundary element model of the fluid domain to a nonlinear finite element model of the membrane. The hydrodynamic loadings induced by water waves are computed assuming large body hydrodynamics and ideal fluid flow and then solving the transient diffraction/radiation problem. Either linear waves or finite amplitude waves can be assumed in the model and thus the nonlinear kinematic and dynamic free surface boundary conditions are solved iteratively. The nonlinear nature of the boundary condition requires a time domain solution. To implicitly include time in the governing field equation, Volterra's method was used. The approach is the same as the typical boundary element method for a fluid domain where the governing field equation is the starting point. The difference is that in Volterra's method the time derivative of the governing field equation becomes the starting point.The boundary element model was then coupled through an iterative process to a finite element model of membrane structures. The coupled model predicts the nonlinear interaction of nonlinear water waves with highly deformable bodies. To verify the coupled model a large scale test was conducted in the OH Hinsdale wave Research Laboratory at Oregon State University on a 3-ft-diameter fabric cylinder submerged in the wave tank. The model data verified the numerical prediction of the structure displacements and of the changes in the wave field.The boundary element model is an ideal modeling technique for modeling the fluid domain when the governing field equations is the Laplace equation. In this case the nonlinear boundary element model was coupled with a finite element model of membrane structures, but the model could have been coupled with other finite element models of more rigid structures, such as a pontoon floating breakwater.     

Effective boundary element method for the interaction of oblique waves with long prismatic structures in water of finite depth

An effective boundary element method (BEM) is presented for the interaction between oblique waves and long prismatic structures in water of finite depth. The Green's function used here is the basic Green's function that does not satisfy any boundary condition. Therefore, the discretized elements for the computation must be placed on all the boundaries. To improve the computational efficiency and accuracy, a modified method for treatment of the open boundary conditions and a direct analytical approach for the singularity integrals in the boundary integral equation are adopted. The present BEM method is applied to the calculation of hydrodynamic coefficients and wave exciting forces for long horizontal rectangular and circular structures. The performance of the present method is demonstrated by comparisons of results with those generated by other analytical and numerical methods.     

Hindcasting nearshore wind waves using a FEM code for SWAN

An improved SWAN model using the Finite Element Method (FEM) was developed for wind waves simulations in both large-scale oceanic deep water regions and small-scale shallow water regions. The model employs a Taylor–Galerkin finite element technique for the discretization of the modeled area, which makes it flexible to represent bottom topography and irregular boundaries. The fractional step numerical scheme was adopted to split the wave action balance equation into three one-dimensional space equations, which can be solved efficiently by one-dimensional algorithms. The Flux-Corrected Transport method was also applied to circumvent the steep-gradients of the action density in the frequency space. The FEM code with unstructured grids improves the numerical schemes in the original SWAN to maintain computational efficiency at the operational stage. A simulation of wind wave activities for the monsoon and the 2000 Typhoon Bilis were performed using the FEM and SWAN models. The simulated results were compared with field observations in order to verify the suitability of the method.     

Hydroelastic analysis of cantilever plate in time domain

Numerical solutions for the hydroelastic problems of bodies are studied directly in the time domain using Neumann–Kelvin formulation. In the hydrodynamic part of problem, the exact initial boundary value problem is linearized using the free stream as a basis flow, replaced by the boundary integral equation applying Green theorem over the transient free surface Green function. The resultant boundary integral equation is discretized using quadrilateral elements over which the value of the potential is assumed to be constant and solved using the trapezoidal rule to integrate the memory or convolution part in time. In the structure part of the problem, the finite element method is used to solve the hydroelastic problem. The Mindlin plate as a bending element, which includes transverse shear effect and rotary inertia effect are used. The present numerical results show acceptable agreement with experimental, analytical, and other published numerical results.     

中国海域浮游硅藻钟形中鼓藻Bellerochea orologicalis Stosch初步研究

我国迄今已记录的中鼓藻属中只有一种——锤状中鼓藻Bellerochea malleus(Bright- well)Van Heurck有详细报导,作者在中国海域进行浮游生物取样时采到本属的另一种钟形中鼓藻Bellerochea horologicalis Stosch,1977.对本种与锤状中鼓藻的重要区别,以及本种的细胞形态、结构、生态习性与分布进行了描述。     

On the modeling of wave propagation on non-uniform currents and depth

By transforming two different time-dependent hyperbolic mild slope equations with dissipation term for wave propagation on non-uniform currents into wave-action conservation equation and eikonal equation, respectively, shown are the different effects of dissipation term on the eikonal equation in the two different mild slope equations. The performances of intrinsic frequency and wave number are also discussed. Thus the suitable mathematical model is chosen in which the wave number vector and intrinsic frequency are expressed both more rigorously and completely. By using the perturbation method, an extended evolution equation, which is of time-dependent parabolic type, is developed from the time-dependent hyperbolic mild slope equation which exists in the suitable mathematical model, and solved by using the alternating direction implicit (ADI) method. Presented is the numerical model for wave propagation and transformation on non-uniform currents in water of slowly varying topography. From the comparisons of the numerical solutions with the theoretical solutions of two examples of wave propagation, respectively, the results show that the numerical solutions are in good agreement with the exact ones. Calculating the interactions between incident wave and current on a sloping beach [Arthur, R.S., 1950. Refraction of shallow water waves. The combined effects of currents and underwater topography. EOS Transactions, August 31, 549–552], the differences of wave number vector between refraction and combined refraction–diffraction of waves are discussed quantitatively, while the effects of different methods of calculating wave number vector on numerical results are shown.     

综合考虑多种变形因素的近岸规则波传播数学模型Ⅰ. 基本方程的导出

推广了Kirby的有环境水流影响的缓坡方程,得到了综合考虑环境水流(水流因子)、非线性弥散影响(非线性因子)、底摩擦波能损失(底摩擦因子)、非缓坡地形影响(地形因子)、折射、绕射、波浪破碎多种变形因素的波浪传播控制方程,并给出了非线性因子、地形因子、底摩擦因子、水流因子的确定方法。基于导出的方程做进一步推导,得到了波高和波向为变量的综合考虑多种变形因素的波浪传播基本方程,该方程有许多优点:1)其绕开了求解波势函数的困难,将椭圆型方程的边值问题化为初值问题;2)直接求解波高和波向;3)可采用有限差分法离散求解,对空间步长没有限制,适合大面积海区波场计算;4)综合考虑了多种波浪变形因素,方程更为合理,5)容易处理波浪破碎问题。     

A Finite Element Solution of Wave Forces on Submerged Horizontal Circular Cylinders

In this paper, a numerical model is established for estimating the wave forces on a submerged horizontal circular cylinder. For predicting the wave motion, a set of two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations is solved numerically with a finite element method. In order to track the moving non-linear wave surface boundary, the Navier-Stokes equations are discretized in a moving mesh system. After each computational time step, the mesh is modified according to the changed wave surface boundary. In order to stabilize the numerical procedure, a three-step finite element method is applied in the time integration. The water sloshing in a tank and wave propagation over a submerged bar are simulated for the first time to validate the present model. The computational results agree well with the analytical solution and the experimental data.Finally, the model is applied to the simulation of interaction between waves and a submerged horizontal circular cylinder.The effects of the KC number and the cylinder depth on the wave forces are studied.     

Finite element method for strong reflection of water waves

In this study, the propagation of monochromatic water waves over an arbitrarily varying topography is numerically investigated. A finite element model is developed by formulating the diffraction of waves caused by depth changes. Not only the propagating mode but also the evanescent modes are included in the model. The model developed is applied to the study of strong reflection of monochromatic waves over a sinusoidally varying topography. Predicted reflection coefficients are compared with those of available laboratory experiments and the eigenfunction expansion method. A very good agreement is observed.     

A new form of generalized Boussinesq equations for varying water depth

A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water.     

Simulation of Fully Nonlinear 3-D Numerical Wave Tank

A fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) has been simulated by use of a three-dimensional higher order bouodary element method (HOBEM) in the time domain. Within the frame of potential flow and the adoption of simply Rankine source, the resulting boundary integral equation is repeatedly solved at each time step and the fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions are integrated with time to update its position and boundary values. A smooth technique is also adopted in order to eliminate the possible saw-tooth numerical instabilities. The incident wave at the uptank is given as theoretical wave in this paper. The outgoing waves are absorbed inside a damping zone by spatially varying artificial damping on the free surface at the wave tank end. The numerical results show that the NWT developed by these approaches has a high accuracy and good numerical stability.     

任意曲线边界条件下缓变水深水域波浪传播的数值模拟

缓坡方程被广泛地应用于描述波浪的传播变形计算,目前一般采用矩形网格求解.将计算域剖分为任意四边形网格,以格林公式为基础,在变量沿单元边界线性变化的假定下,对双曲型的波能守恒方程、波数矢无旋性方程进行离散,同时通过等参单元变换推求节点偏导数值以离散椭圆型光程函数方程,从而建立了任意曲线边界条件下缓变水深水域波浪传播的数值模拟模型.将模型应用于平行直线型等深线地形,并将计算域剖分为不规则四边形网格,对不同入射角、底坡、波高等多种组合情况比较了数值解与解析解,结果表明两者一致.应用于复杂边界的实例,数值模拟结果与物模实验值基本吻合.