Wave interaction with cylindrical porous piles

The interaction of waves with arrays of porous circular cylinders is studied theoretically and, under the assumption of potential flow and linear wave theory, an analytical solution is derived. The solution is valid for either submerged or emerged structures. The extension to the cases of unidirectional and multidirectional waves is obtained by means of a transfer function. For specific conditions the model gives the same solution as those previously presented by other authors. Numerical results are presented which exemplify diverse wave and mechanical parameters on the wave transformation due to the presence of a system of circular cylinders.     

斜向和多向不规则波在斜坡堤上的平均越浪量的试验研究

通过三维物理模型试验研究了在斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波在非破碎条件下的平均越浪量与波浪参数及堤参数的关系.着重考察了波浪以小角度(0°~30°)斜向入射时平均越浪量的变化情况,肯定了多向波的越浪量在这一范围内有所谓“小角度斜向增加”的现象,但否定了单向波也具有这一现象.在考察波浪的方向分布影响时发现波浪斜向入射时多向波的越浪量往往要比单向波的大.比较了已有的相关研究成果,给出了适用于混凝土护面和扭工字块体护面斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波的平均越浪量的估算公式.     

Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves

This is the first of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In this first paper, part I, the model is presented and its basic features are studied for the case of regular waves. The model is based on two-dimensional equations of the Boussinesq type and it features improved linear dispersion characteristics, possibility of wave breaking, and a moving boundary at the shoreline. The moving shoreline is treated numerically by replacing the solid beach by a permeable beach characterized by an extremely small porosity. Run-up of nonbreaking waves is verified against the analytical solution for nonlinear shallow water waves. The inclusion of wave breaking is based on the surface roller concept for spilling breakers using a geometrical determination of the instantaneous roller thickness at each point and modelling the effect of wave breaking by an additional convective momentum term. This is a function of the local wave celerity, which is determined interactively. The model is applied to cross-shore motions of regular waves including various types of breaking on plane sloping beaches and over submerged bars. Model results comprise time series of surface elevations and the spatial variation of phase-averaged quantities such as the wave height, the crest and trough elevations, the mean water level, and the depth-averaged undertow. Comparisons with physical experiments are presented. The phaseaveraged balance of the individual terms in the momentum and energy equation is determined by time-integration and quantities such as the cross-sectional roller area, the radiation stress, the energy flux and the energy dissipation are studied and discussed with reference to conventional phase-averaged wave models. The companion papers present cross-shore motions of breaking irregular waves, swash oscillations and surf beats (part II) and nearshore circulations induced by breaking of unidirectional and multidirectional waves (part III).     

多向不规则波浪作用下群墩结构上爬高的计算研究

波浪的方向分布对波浪的传播及其与工程结构物的作用都具有明显影响，目前现有的研究大多是基于单向波浪进行的。为了研究方向分布对群墩结构上的爬高影响，基于规则波浪与群墩作用的理论解，结合多向不规则波浪的造波方法，建立了多向不规则波浪与群墩作用的计算模型，同时进行了物理模型试验对模型的有效性进行了验证。系统地对群墩周围及表面上的波浪爬高进行了计算分析，结果表明，方向分布对波浪爬高具有较大的影响，且不同位置处的影响并不相同，在实际的工程设计中如果按照单向波浪计算，可能低估或者高估群墩周围的爬高。     

斜向不规则波对直墙作用的实验研究

通过长峰不规则波和方向波谱对直墙作用的实验研究 ,分别给出了每延米斜向不规则波波浪力与正向力之比 ,方向波谱波浪力与斜向长峰不规则波波浪力之间的关系 ,通过与规则波实验结果的比较给出了斜向规则波与不规则波波浪力之间的相对关系 ;并对斜向不规则波的反射系数与正向波时的变化作出了分析     

Wave motion over a breakwater system of a horizontal plate and a vertical porous wall

A two-dimensional analytical solution is presented to study the reflection and transmission of linear water waves propagating past a submerged horizontal plate and through a vertical porous wall. The velocity potential in each fluid domain is formulated using three sets of orthogonal eigenfunctions and the unknown coefficients are determined from the matching conditions. Wave elevations and hydrodynamic forces acting on the porous wall are computed. Reflection and transmission coefficients are presented to examine the performance of the breakwater system. The present analytical solutions are found in fairly good agreement with the available laboratory data. The results indicate that the plate length, the porous-effect, the gap between plate and porous wall, and the submerged depth of the plate all show a significant influence on the reflected and transmitted wave fields. It is also interesting to note that the submerged plate plays an important role in reducing the transmitted wave height, especially for long incident waves.     

A composite numerical model for wave diffraction in a harbor with varying water depth

A composite numerical model is presented for computing the wave field in a harbor. The mild slope equation is discretized by a finite element method in the domain concerned. Out of the computational domain, the water depth is assumed to be constant. The boundary element method is applied to the outer boundary for dealing with the infinite boundary condition. Because the model satisfies strictly the infinite boundary condition, more accurate results can be obtained. The model is firstly applied to compute the wave diffraction in a narrow rectangular bay and the wave diffraction from a porous cylinder. The numerical results are compared with the analytical solution, experimental data and other numerical results. Good agreements are obtained. Then the model is applied to computing the wave diffraction in a square harbor with varying water depth. The effects of the water depth in the harbor and the incoming wave direction on the wave height distribution are discussed.     

A composite numerical model for wave diffraction in a harbor with varying water depth

A composite numerical model is presented for computing the wave field in a harbor. The mild slope equation is discretized by a finite element method in the domain concerned. Out of the computational domain, the water depth is assumed to be constant. The boundary element method is applied to the outer boundary for dealing with the infinite boundary condition. Because the model satisfies strictly the infinite boundary condition, more accurate results can be obtained. The model is firstly applied to compute the wave diffraction in a narrow rectangular bay and the wave diffraction from a porous cylinder. The numerical results are compared with the analytical solution, experimental data and other numerical results. Good agreements are obtained. Then the model is applied to computing the wave diffraction in a square harbor with varying water depth. The effects of the water depth in the harbor and the incoming wave direction on the wave height distribution are discussed.     

考虑边界波浪方向的缓坡方程自适应求解模型

缓坡方程是描述近岸波浪运动较好的数学模型之一。在发展的自适应有限元求解缓坡方程的基础上,采用迭代求解的方法,确定波浪相对于边界的入射方向,从而对边界条件进行改进,建立了求解缓坡方程的数值计算模型。典型算例表明,考虑波浪相对于边界的入射角度后,模型可以更好地模拟吸收波浪边界,同时对多向波对双突堤的绕射进行了模拟研究,与试验结果比较表明,所建立的数值计算模型能够适用于多向不规则波传播过程的模拟研究。     

Physical simulation of multidirectional irregular wave groups

Real waves are multidirectional waves.In the present study,the calculation method for the wave maker driving signals for generating multidirectional wave groups in physical wave basin is proposed.Its validity is first confirmed by a numerical model for which the incident boundary condition is determined by use of the proposed method.Then,the physical simulation of multidirectional wave groups is performed in laboratory wave basin.The experimental results show that multidirectional waves with expected wave groupiness,which includes not only its group height but also its group length,can be satisfactorily generated at the specified position in the physical wave basin.     

Diffraction of multidirectional random waves by multiple rectangular submarine pits

A numerical model is presented to predict the interaction of multidirectional random surface waves with one or more rectangular submarine pits. The water depth is assumed uniform and the method involves the superposition of diffraction solutions based on linearized shallow water wave theory obtained by a two-dimensional boundary integral approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The present numerical model has been validated through comparisons with previous theoretical results for regular waves. Good agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field around multiple submarine pits and navigation channels in many practical situations.     

多向不规则波浪的确定性模拟

波浪波动时间过程及波列的模拟，对于开展实际波浪对于工程建筑物的作用具有重要的意义。本文采用线性叠加的单叠加模型，建立了多向不规则波浪的确定性模拟方法。基于理论模拟的规则波、单向不规则波和多向不规则波，验证了波浪确定性模拟方法的有效性。定性地对比分析了模拟波列和已知波列的一致性；定量地研究了模拟波浪在空间范围rr/L_s的误差分布情况(rr表示指定位置与给定位置的空间距离，L_s为有效波长)。并且建议，采用本文方法进行波浪确定性模拟时，最佳的浪高仪间距应小于0.12L_s。     

Deterministic and stochastic evolution equations for fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear waves

This paper presents a new and more accurate set of deterministic evolution equations for the propagation of fully dispersive, weakly nonlinear, irregular, multidirectional waves. The equations are derived directly from the Laplace equation with leading order nonlinearity in the surface boundary conditions. It is demonstrated that previous fully dispersive formulations from the literature have used an inconsistent linear relation between the velocity potential and the surface elevation. As a consequence these formulations are accurate only in shallow water, while nonlinear transfer of energy is significantly underestimated for larger wave numbers. In the present work we correct this inconsistency. In addition to the improved deterministic formulation, we present improved stochastic evolution equations in terms of the energy spectrum and the bispectrum for multidirectional waves. The deterministic and stochastic formulations are solved numerically for the case of cross shore motion of unidirectional waves and the results are verified against laboratory data for wave propagation over submerged bars and over a plane slope. Outside the surf zone the two model predictions are generally in good agreement with the measurements, and it is found that the accuracy of e.g., the energy spectrum and of the third-order statistics is considerably improved by the new formulations, particularly outside the shallow-water range.     

A comparison of several wave spectra for the random wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater

A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications.     

Hilbert Transform Applied to Separation of Waves

The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improvement of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient.The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phasedifference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda‘s method and satisfactory results are obtained.     

A parabolic equation for wave propagation over porous structures

A parabolic wave model was developed to simulate wave transformation over porous structures in the surf zone including wave-breaking and energy dissipation. This model is verified through experimental data for waves passing over a submerged permeable structure with porosities. The numerical results have shown good agreement with the results of laboratory experiments. The model is also applied to the real case of waves propagating over a porous submerged breakwater on a complicated bathymetry.     

层化海洋中二阶多色波对可渗透结构的绕射问题

可渗透结构具有使波浪作用减弱的效应,而海水的层化及水波的非线性使结构的波绕射产生多层复杂机制。将可渗透结构应用于复杂海况条件中,海水的层化性、波浪的非线性及结构的透空性构成了波绕射的一个十分复杂的数学问题。该问题存在理论研究的必要性,而文章则着重探讨其数学分析的可能性。通过引入二层海的层化海模式及Stokes二阶波的非线性波模式,给出了二阶多色波对透空结构的波绕射的定解问题提法,提出了复合形式的二阶多色波辐射条件式及可渗透结构的二阶物面条件式,应用特征函数解法与积分法推导了多色波对结构绕射的一阶势解与二阶作用的耦合积分解式,并讨论了解式所涉及无穷积分的算法。     

Hilbert Transferin Applied to Separation of Waves

The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improveraent of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient. The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phase difference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda s method and satisfactory results are obtained.     

Linear wave reflection by trench with various shapes

Two types of analytical solutions for waves propagating over an asymmetric trench are derived. One is a long-wave solution and the other is a mild-slope solution, which is applicable to deeper water. The water depth inside the trench varies in proportion to a power of the distance from the center of the trench (which is the deepest water depth point and the origin of x-coordinate in this study). The mild-slope equation is transformed into a second-order ordinary differential equation with variable coefficients based on the longwave assumption [Hunt's, 1979. Direct solution of wave dispersion equation. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coast. and Ocean Engineering 105, 457–459] as approximate solution for wave dispersion. The analytical solutions are then obtained by using the power series technique. The analytical solutions are compared with the numerical solution of the hyperbolic mild-slope equations. After obtaining the analytical solutions under various conditions, the results are analyzed.     

Experimental Investigation of Wave Heights in A Directional Wave Field Through Image Sequences

Measurements of wave heights with image sequences from a Charged Coupled Device(CCD) camera were made. Sinusoidal, as well as unidirectional and directional, waves were used for the experiments. A transfer function was obtained by calibration of the magnitudes of the gray values of the images against the results of wave gauge measurements for directional waves. With this transfer function, wave heights for regular waves were deduced. It is shown that the average relative errors are smaller than 16% for both unidirectional and directional waves.