三阶非线性海浪波面斜率的联合概率统计分布

从Longuet-Higgins于1963年建立的非线性随机海浪模型出发,对各向同性波面斜率的联台概率统计分布进行了理论研究.结果表明,在三阶近似下,波面斜率联合概率统计分有为截断的Gram-Charlier级数,截断的项数取决于非线性近似的阶数,每一阶近似均对前一阶近似结果有所修正如果不考虑非线性耦合相互作用的影响,则分布蜕化为高斯分布.     

二阶非线性随机海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布

基于Longuet－Higgins提出的非线性随机海浪模型，在二阶近似下通过直接计算联合分布的各阶矩，导出了非线性海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布。该分布为非正态，其形式为截断的级数，而非由累积矩母函数方法可能得到的渐近无穷级数。由于非线性的影响，波面高度与波面垂直速度不再相互独立。     

二阶非线性随机海浪波高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布

基于Ｌｏｎｇｕｅｔ－Ｈｉｇｇｉｎｓ提出的非线性随机海浪模型，在二阶近似下通过直接计算联合分布的各阶矩，导出了非线性海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布，该分布为非正态，其形式为截断的级数，而非由累积矩母函数方法可能得到的渐近无穷级数。由于非线性的影响，波面高度与波面垂直速度不再相互独立。     

波面极大值处水质点水平速度的统计分布

基于Ｌｏｎｇｕｅｔ－Ｈｉｇｇｉｎｓ提出的线性随机海浪模型,导出了波面极大值处水质点水平速度的统计分布。分布的形式类似于波面极大值的统计分布,其中引入了一个新的谱宽度参量εｕ为１－ｍ２３ｍ２ｍ４１２。当εｕ趋于零时,导出的分布函数为瑞利分布;当εｕ趋于１时,则为正态分布。在窄谱情形下εｕ趋于１２ε,其中ε为１－ｍ２２ｍ０ｍ４１２,为常用的谱宽度参量     

非线性海浪波面斜率的概率分布和白浪覆盖率的计算

依二维非线性海浪模型,在三阶近似下,利用特征函数展开技术和直接求矩的方法,导出了波面斜率的概率分布。据此分布,利用极限表面斜率判据,给出了白浪覆盖率的一个解析模式。该模式依赖于3个参量,这3个参量可由线性意义下的海浪波数谱及三类波-波相互作用所确定。     

波面位移非线性特征数值研究

基于Longuest-Higgins(1963)非线性海浪模型,在有限水深且存在均匀背景流的条件下,根据Song(2006)给出的波面位移二阶表达式,采用Combi海浪频谱计算了海表面定点波面位移时间序列和波面位移概率统计分布。分析了波面位移统计分布随风速、水深、反波龄和均匀背景流的变化特征和规律以及不同海况条件下二阶非线性项对波面位移统计分布的影响。结果表明:二阶非线性项使波面位移分布偏离正态分布,二阶非线性作用受风速、水深、反波龄和均匀背景流的影响。风速增大、水深降低、反波龄减小或者均匀背景流和风速传播方向相反均使波面位移二阶非线性项的作用加强,无因次波面位移概率密度分布的偏度和峰度随之增大,反之则二阶非线性项作用减弱。当均匀背景流和风速相同时,虽然使非线性项的作用减弱,但平均波面位移反而比静止水平面降低。当均匀背景流和风速相反时,虽然使非线性作用增强,但平均波面位移反而趋于静止水平面。得到如下结论:二阶非线性项对于波面位移有显著影响,数值模拟波面位移需要增加二阶非线性项。通过以上研究,提高了数值模拟波面位移的准确性,而波面位移是海浪最基本的特征量,从而增强了海浪模拟和预报的准确性,对海洋工程、海–气相互作用、上层海洋动力学等具有重要意义。     

由模拟波面统计分析波高－周期联合分布

阐述以实测或拟合海浪谱为靶谱，用等能量分割法作波面数值模拟，从而利用模拟波面统计分析波高（Ｈ）－周期（Ｔ）联合分布。对波候的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布、长时段海浪连续记录的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布以及风浪、涌浪和混合浪的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布进行了讨论。结果表明，只要已知特征波高和周期，就可反演出模拟波面，进而估测Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布情况，这对了解与各种特征波高对应的周期问题及在海洋工程应用上有一定的参考意义。     

非线性海浪波面与波高的统计分布

采用风浪谱参量化的方法将随机波面无因次化,把波面与波高概率分布的各阶矩展开为谱宽度根方的幂级数,并由此导出波面与波高的统计分布。结果表明,在准确至零阶和一阶时,风浪分别退化为静止海面和单色波;在准确至二阶时,波面为线性模型,即波面服从正态分布;而在准确至三阶以上时,波面分布与Longuet-Higgins导出的非线性海浪模型的Gram-Charlier形分布具有同效益;并在准确至三阶时,导出一种新的波高分布,此分布函数以Longuet-Higgins等给出的Rayleigh分布作为二阶近似的特例。     

由模拟波面统计分析波高—周期联合分布

阐述以实测或拟合海浪谱为靶谱，用等能量分割法作波面数值模拟，从而利用模拟波面统计分析波高（Ｈ）－周期（Ｔ）联合分布，对波候的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布，长时段海浪连续记录的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布以及风浪，涌浪和混合浪的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布进行了讨论，结果表明，只要已知特征波高和周期，就可反演出模拟波面，进而估测Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布情况，这对了解与各种特征波高对应的周期问题及在海洋工程应用上有一定的参考意义。     

适当窄谱非线性海波场波面、速度和加速度场的统计

本文以随机斯托克斯波(Stokes wave)串为非线性海波的统计模型,利用摄动法和最快下降法技术,导出了非线性波动场诸要素(波面、速度场和加速度场)的分布函数。所得结果定量地阐明了波剖面的非线性上下不对称性对波动场统计特征的影响。     

A Probability Distribution of Surface Elevation for Wind Waves in Terms of the Gram-Charlier Series

Laboratory experiments are conducted to study the probability distribution of surface elevation for wind waves and the convergence is discussed of the Gram-Charlier series in describing the surface elevation distribution. Results show that the agreement between the Gram-Charlier series and the observed distribution becomes better and better as the truncated order of the series increases in a certain range, which is contrary to the phenomenon observed by Huang and Long (1980) . It is also shown that the Gram-Charlier series is sensitive to the anomalies in the data set which will make the agreement worse if they are not preprocessed appropriately. Negative values of the probability distribution expressed by the Gram-Charlier series in some ranges of surface elevations are discussed, but the absolute values of the negative values as well as the ranges of their occurrence become smaller gradually as more and more terms are included. Therefore the negative values will have no evident effect on the form of t     

海浪波面极大值分布的非线性影响

依非线性海浪模型,在二阶近似下,利用特征函数展开技术和直接求矩的方法,导出了定点波面位移及其对时间的一阶和二阶导数的联合分布。由此联合分布,导出了二阶非线性近似下的波面极大值分布。它由线性意义下的海浪频谱及所考虑的二阶级。波相互作用所确定。当忽略非线性影响时,文中给出的波面极大值分布退化为Cartwright和Longuet-Higgins所导出的分布。     

Simulating of the probability density of sea surface elevations using the Gram-Charlier series

The capabilities and limitations of the simulation of the probability density of rough sea surface elevations using the Gram-Charlier series are analyzed. The data of direct wave measurements at an oceanographic platform in the Black Sea are used in the analysis. The skewness of the sea surface elevation’s distribution depends on the mean slope formed by the dominating waves and on the degree of the wave field development. A weak trend in the variations of the peakedness during the measurements of these parameters is also observed. The estimates of the errors in the peakedness measurements during the construction of the probability density of the sea surface elevations using the first five terms of the Gram-Charlier series are presented.     

Probability distribution of surface slope for nonlinear random sea waves and calculation of whitecap coverage

Based on the nonlinear model of two-dimensional random sea waves, a statistical distribution of wave surface slope exact to the third order is derived by using the expansion of the characteristic function and direct calculations of each order moment. Based on the distribution of wave surface slope derived in this paper, a whitecap coverage is proposed by using the limit surface slope as a criterion of wave breaking. The whitecap coverage expressed by the model depends on three parameters which can be determined in principle by the linear wave spectrum and three kinds of wave-wave interaction.     

波高非线性概率分布高阶谱数值模型研究

由于波浪的调制不稳定以及非线性波-波相互作用等因素的存在，波浪的分布会偏离线性假设下瑞利分布的结果。通过使用高阶谱模型对不同初始条件下波浪数值模拟。对统计得到的波高与线性理论下的瑞利分布和考虑非线性下改进的埃奇沃思-瑞利（MER）分布和依据Gram-Charlier展开的分布（GC分布）进行对比。结果表明，深水条件下波浪传播过程中偏度值变化较小，而峰度值出现增长。在较小有效波高值的波况下波高分布符合瑞利分布，但随着有效波高值的增加，波浪的非线性增强，波高分布与考虑非线性影响下的GC和MER分布结果相符。宽谱下的波高分布偏离瑞利分布的程度小于窄谱的情况，波高分布更接近瑞利分布的结果。     

A New Maximum Entropy Probability Function for the Surface Elevation of Nonlinear Sea Waves

Based on the maximum entropy principle a new probability density function （PDF） f（x） for the surface elevation of nonlinear sea waves, X, is derived through performing a coordinate transform of X and solving a variation problem subject to three constraint conditions of f（ x ）. Compared with the maximum entropy PDFs presented previously, the new PDF has the following merits： （1） it has four parameters to be determined and hence can give more refined fit to observed data and has wider suitability for nonlinear waves in different conditions; （2） these parameters are expressed in terms of distribution moments of X in a relatively simple form and hence are easy to be determined from observed data; （3） the PDF is free of the restriction of weak nonlinearity and possible to be used for sea waves in complicated conditions, such as those in shallow waters with complicated topography; and （4） the PDF is simple in form and hence convenient for theoretical and practical uses. l.aboratory wind-wave experiments have been conducted to test the competence of the new PDF for the surface elevation of nonlinear waves. The experimental results manifest that the new PDF gives somewhat better fit to the laboratory wind-wave data than the well-known Gram-Charlier PDF and beta PDF.     

Statistical distribution of wave-surface elevation for second-order random directional ocean waves in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a statistical distribution of the wave-surface elevation is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the distribution, after normalization of the wave-surface elevation, depends only on two parameters. One parameter describes the small mean bias of the surface produced by the second-order wave-wave interactions. Another one is approximately proportional to the skewness of the distribution. Both of these two parameters can be determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, we consider a fully developed wind-generated sea and the parameters are calculated for various wind speeds and water depths by using Donelan and Pierson spectrum. It is also found that, for deep water, the dimensionless distribution reduces to the third-order Gram–Charlier series obtained by Longuet-Higgins [J. Fluid Mech. 17 (1963) 459]. The newly proposed distribution is compared with the data of Bitner [Appl. Ocean Res. 2 (1980) 63], Gaussian distribution and the fourth-order Gram–Charlier series, and found our distribution gives a more reasonable fit to the data.     

Effect of skewness and kurtosis of sea-surface elevations on the accuracy of altimetry surface level measurements

We assess the influence of changes in the skewness and kurtosis of the distribution of elevations on a rough sea surface that were observed in field conditions on the accuracy of the recovery of the sea-surface level along the satellite trace. For different values of a significant height of surface waves, we obtain numerical estimates for the bias in relief recovery due to the simultaneous variation in skewness and kurtosis. It is shown that, with a decrease in kurtosis, the effect of skewness changes on the accuracy of altimetry measurements of the level increases. We note the limitations of the Gram-Charlier model in simulating the radar waveforms return from the sea surface.     

A new kind of nonlinear mild-slope equation for combined refraction-diffraction of multifrequency waves

This paper presents the numerical solution of a new nonlinear mild-slope equation governing waves with different frequency components propagating in a region of varying water depth. There are two new nonlinear equations. The linear part of the equations is the mild-slope equation, and one of the models has the same non-linearity as the Boussinesq equations. The new equations are directly applicable to the problems of nonlinear wave-wave interactions over variable depth. The equations are first simplified with the parabolic approximation, and then solved numerically with a finite difference method. The Crank-Nicolson method is used to discretize the models. The numerical models are applied to a set of published experimental cases, which are nonlinear combined refraction-diffraction with generation of higher harmonic waves. Comparison of the results shows that the present models generally predict the measurements better than other nonlinear numerical models which have been applied to the data set.