Diffraction of multidirectional random waves by multiple rectangular submarine pits

A numerical model is presented to predict the interaction of multidirectional random surface waves with one or more rectangular submarine pits. The water depth is assumed uniform and the method involves the superposition of diffraction solutions based on linearized shallow water wave theory obtained by a two-dimensional boundary integral approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The present numerical model has been validated through comparisons with previous theoretical results for regular waves. Good agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field around multiple submarine pits and navigation channels in many practical situations.     

近岸波浪折射-绕射-破波耗散联合模式的有限元数值研究

建立了近岸波浪折射-绕射-破波耗散的有限元数值模式。采用的有限元方法为改进的混合元法,其中外域开边界条件得到改进,内域有限元为伽廖金有限元。用理论解检验了所建立的数值模式,并将该模式应用到一个模型港湾。     

Transparent boundary condition for simulating nonlinear water waves by a particle method

Open boundaries are important when simulating water waves. In this study, a transparent boundary condition at an open boundary was developed for simulating nonlinear water waves propagating to a distant area using the Moving Particle Semi-implicit method. The novelty of this study is that the technique of wave analysis used in the experiment was introduced into the particle simulation to absorb incident waves; the simulation cost was reduced by employing inflow and outflow regions instead of a long dissipation region. Incident waves in front of the boundary were evaluated using Fourier analysis, and the particles on the transparent boundary were forced to move at the velocity of the analytical solution for Stokes waves in order to absorb the incident waves. The analysis was restricted to periodic waves. Wave propagation was simulated for two wave periods using the developed transparent boundary condition. The results showed that this transparent boundary transmitted the incident waves with small reflection and the simulation cost was lower than that for wave damping by a conventional highly viscous region.     

港域波浪数学模型的改进与验证

通过物理模型对改进的港内波浪传播变形数学模型进行验证。该数学模型以推广的时变缓坡方程为控制方程,采用含松弛因子的ADI法求解,并对波浪反射和透射边界模拟方法进行改进。先通过物理模型试验确定斜向浪入射条件下抛石防波堤前的波浪反射系数,作为数学模型中部分反射边界模拟的依据。然后进行了一个典型港口内波浪折射、绕射和反射的模型试验,测量港内波浪分布。对比模型试验和数学模型计算的结果表明,数学模型可较好地模拟港内复杂地形和边界条件下规则波和不规则波的传播变形。     

Numerical Wave Channel with Absorbing Wave-Maker

The numerical wave channel has been developed based on the volume of fluid method (VOF) in conjunction with the Navier-Stokes equations. The absorbing wave-maker boundary on the left side of the channel is presented by prescribing velocity reference to linear wave-maker theory. The principle of which is that the numerical wave-maker is designed to move in a way that generates the required incident wave and cancels out any reflected wave that reach it at the same time. On the right side of the channel, the open boundary is set to permit incident waves to be transmitted freely. The parametric studies have been carried out at a range of ratios of water depth to wave length d/ L from 0.124 to 0.219, with wave height in the front of paddle/water depth ratio (H0 / d) from 0.1 to 0.3. Wave height, wave pressure distribution along the channel and velocity field are obtained for both open boundary condition and reflective boundary condition at the other end of the channel. For a reflective case, it is shown that     

Hydrodynamics of a submerged hydrofoil advancing in waves

The hydrodynamic problem of a hydrofoil travelling at constant speed in water waves has been investigated through velocity potential theory. The boundary conditions on the free surface have been linearized, and the effects are accounted for through the Green function. The overall problem is decomposed into the steady forward speed problem and periodic wave radiation and diffraction problems. Each of these problems is solved using the boundary integral equation over the hydrofoil surface together with a vortex sheet behind the trailing edge. The body surface boundary condition is imposed on its mean position. As a result the steady potential will contribute a well-known m_j term to the body surface boundary condition on the radiation problem. The numerical difficulty in dealing with this term is effectively resolved through a difference method. The effects of the thickness on the wave radiation and diffraction are investigated. The applicability of various reciprocity relationships in this problem is discussed.     

Wave transformation by axisymmetric three-dimensional bathymetric anomalies with gradual transitions in depth

The development of an analytic model (Axisymmetric 3-D Step Model) for the propagation of linear water waves over an axisymmetric bathymetric anomaly in arbitrary water depth is presented. The Axisymmetric 3-D Step Model is valid in a region of uniform depth containing an axisymmetric bathymetric anomaly with gradual transitions in depth allowed as a series of steps approximating arbitrary slopes. The velocity potential is calculated by applying matching conditions at the interface between regions of constant depth. The velocity potential obtained determines the wave field in the domain for monochromatic incident waves of linear form. A second analytic model (3-D Shallow Water Exact Model) is developed for comparison within the shallow water limit.The Axisymmetric 3-D Step Model determines the wave transformation caused by the processes of wave refraction, diffraction and reflection. Wave transformation is demonstrated in plots of the relative amplitude for bathymetric anomalies in the form of pit or a shoal, highlighting areas of wave sheltering and wave focusing. Anomalies of constant volume, but variable cross-section are employed to isolate the effect of the transition slope on the wave transformation.Comparisons to a shallow water model, numerical models, and experimental data verify the results of the Axisymmetric 3-D Step Model for several bathymetries including both pits and shoals. Also included are estimates of the energy reflection induced by an axisymmetric depth anomaly. The 3-D Axisymmetric Step Model has been applied previously to account for nearshore transformation (sloping bathymetry) and associated shoreline changes [C.J. Bender, R.G. Dean, Coastal Engineering 51 (2004) 1143].     

人工采掘坑影响下珊瑚礁海岸波浪传播变形试验

基于礁坪上高分辨率的波浪测量,通过波浪水槽试验分析了短波、低频长波、平均水位、波形参数和非线性参数的沿礁变化规律,重点探讨礁坪中部存在人工采掘坑对上述波浪传播变形特征的影响,并与无坑的情况进行对比。研究表明:当人工采掘坑存在时,短波波高在坑前和坑内分别增大和减小,在礁后岸滩附近却无显著变化;低频长波波高在坑附近变化不大,在岸滩附近却略微减小;波浪增水在坑和岸滩附近均无显著变化。采掘坑存在的情况下,波浪的偏度和不对称度在坑附近分别减小和增大,而厄塞尔数在坑附近却几乎不变。相关性分析发现低频长波的产生机理几乎不受采掘坑的影响,采掘坑的存在增加了低频长波的反射,破坏了礁坪的共振模式,从而使低频长波在岸滩附近有所削弱。     

A comparison of several wave spectra for the random wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater

A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications.     

Boundary element modeling of multidirectional random waves in a harbor with partially reflecting boundaries

A numerical model is presented for the prediction of the wave field due to the diffraction of directional random waves in a harbor of arbitrary shape with partially reflecting boundaries. The water depth is assumed uniform and the method is based upon the superposition of diffraction solutions for monochromatic waves obtained by a two-dimensional boundary integral equation approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The present numerical model has been validated through comparisons with previous experimental data and theoretical results for both regular and random wave diffraction by offshore breakwaters and in harbors. Good agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field inside a harbor or around a breakwater in many practical applications.     

Simulation of directional waves in a numerical basin by a desingularized integral equation approach

A numerical solution is developed to investigate the generation and propagation of small-amplitude water waves in a semi-infinite rectangular wave basin. The three-dimensional wave field is produced by the prescribed “snake-like” motion of an array of segmented wave generators located along the wall at one end of the tank. The solution technique is based on the boundary element approach and uses an appropriate three-dimensional Green function which explicitly satisfies the tank-wall boundary conditions. The Green function and its derivatives which appear in the integral equation formulation can be shown to be slowly convergent when the source and field points are in close proximity. Therefore, when computing the velocity potentials on the wave generators, the source points are chosen outside the fluid domain, thereby ensuring the rapid convergence of these functions and rendering the integral equations non-singular. Numerical results are shown which illustrate the influence of the various wavemaker and basin parameters on the generated wave field. Finally, the complete wave field produced by the diffraction of oblique waves by a vertical circular cylinder in a basin is presented.     

Modeling waves and longshore transport potential in Half Moon Bay, Grays Harbor, Washington, USA

A local-scale phase-resolving wave transformation model with CGWAVE is established in connection with a regional-scale coupled STWAVE-ADCIRC wave-current model for its application in the Half Moon Bay, Grays Harbor. Wave transformation from offshore to the harbor entrance is simulated by the STWAVE model which includes wave-current interaction. The STWAVE results provide incident wave conditions for the local-scale CGWAVE model at its outer boundary. A simple method is developed to take into ac- count the lateral variation of wave height in constructing the model's wave boundary conditions. The model was validated for three wave condition cases which yielded good agreement with field data. The validated model was applied to predicting nearshore waves in the Half Moon Bay and longshore transport parameters along the wave breaking line for the existing condition and three engi- neering alternatives. A comparative analysis indicated that storm waves that have a combination of long period and large height are the most destructive to the crenulate shoreline in the Half Moon Bay; both 152 m jetty extension (Alt. 2) and diffraction mound enlargement ( Alt. 3) would significantly reduce breaking wave height and longshore transport potential in the southwest comer of Half Moon Bay.     

Artificial upwelling in regular and random waves

Mathematical modeling conducted in this study evaluated the hydrodynamic performance of a wave-driven artificial upwelling device in ocean waves off the Hawaiian islands. The device consisted of a buoy (4.0 m in diameter) and a tail pipe (1.2 m in diameter, 300 m in length) with a flow controlling valve. Random ocean waves off the Hawaiian islands used in the device's modeling analysis were synthesized from a wave spectrum obtained from available data. For comparison, the device's performance was also evaluated in regular waves whose height and period are the same as the significant wave height and wave period of random Hawaiian waves. Modeling results indicated that an upwelling flow of 0.95 m³/sec can be generated by this device in random Hawaiian waves and an upwelling flow rate of 0.45 m³/sec can be generated in regular waves. A simple mathematical model which assumed that the device exactly follows the incident waves was used in previous studies. Analysis results also indicated that the simple model cannot satisfactorily simulate the relative velocity and acceleration of the water column in the device. Since the relative velocity and acceleration are important factors in determining the rate of upwelling flow, the simple model must be applied with caution.     

An active wave generating–absorbing boundary condition for VOF type numerical model

The objective of the present work is to discuss the implementation of an active wave generating–absorbing boundary condition for a numerical model based on the Volume Of Fluid (VOF) method for tracking free surfaces. First an overview of the development of VOF type models with special emphasis in the field of coastal engineering is given. A new type of numerical boundary condition for combined wave generation and absorption in the numerical model VOFbreak² is presented. The numerical boundary condition is based on an active wave absorption system that was first developed in the context of physical wave flume experiments, using a wave paddle. The method applies to regular and irregular waves. Velocities are measured at one location inside the computational domain. The reflected wave train is separated from the incident wave field in front of a structure by means of digital filtering and subsequent superposition of the measured velocity signals. The incident wave signal is corrected, so that the reflected wave is effectively absorbed at the boundary. The digital filters are derived theoretically and their practical design is discussed. The practical use of this numerical boundary condition is compared to the use of the absorption system in a physical wave flume. The effectiveness of the active wave generating–absorbing boundary condition finally is proved using analytical tests and numerical simulations with VOFbreak².     

高阶边界元方法求解规则波在三维局部渗透海床上的传播

基于线性势流理论,利用高阶边界元法研究了规则波在三维局部渗透海床上的传播。根据Darcy渗透定律推导出渗透海床的控制方程,利用渗透海床顶部和海底处法向速度和压强连续条件得到渗透海床顶部满足的边界条件。根据绕射理论,利用满足自由水面条件的格林函数建立了求解渗透海床绕射势的边界积分方程,采用高阶边界元方法求解边界积分方程进而得到自由水面的绕射势和波浪在局部渗透海床上传播过程中幅值的变化情况。通过与已发表的波浪对圆柱形暗礁的时域全绕射结果对比,证明了本文建立的频域方法计算波幅的正确性和有效性。利用这一模型研究了三维矩形渗透海床区域上波浪的传播特性,并分析了入射波波长、海床渗透特性系数等参数对波浪传播的影响。     

Verification of A Numerical Harbour Wave Model

A numerical model for wave propagation in a harbour is verified by use of physical models.The extended time-dependent mild slope equation is employed as the governing equation,and the model is solved by use of ADI method containing the relaxation factor.Firstly,the reflection coefficient of waves in front of rubble-mound breakwaters under oblique incident waves is determined through physical model tests,and it is regarded as the basis for simulating partial reflection boundaries of the numerical model.Then model tests on refraction,diffraction and reflection of waves in a harbour are performed to measure wave height distribution.Comparative results between physical and numerical model tests show that the present numerical model can satisfactorily simulate the propagation of regular and irregular waves in a harbour with complex topography and boundary conditions.     

Scour below marine pipelines in shoaling conditions for random waves

This paper provides an approach by which the scour depth below pipelines in shoaling conditions beneath non-breaking and breaking random waves can be derived. Here the scour depth formula in shoaling conditions for regular non-breaking and breaking waves with normal incidence to the pipeline presented by Cevik and Yüksel [Cevik, E. and Yüksel, Y., (1999). Scour under submarine pipelines in waves in shoaling conditions. ASCE J. Waterw., Port, Coast. Ocean Eng., 125 (1), 9–19.] combined with the wave height distribution including shoaling and breaking waves presented by Mendez et al. [Mendez, F.J., Losada, I.J. and Medina, R., (2004). Transformation model of wave height distribution on planar beaches. Coast. Eng. 50 (3), 97–115.] are used. Moreover, the approach is based on describing the wave motion as a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process. An example of calculation is also presented.     

三维二阶水波绕射问题的有限元时域计算

本文用有限元法配合时步处理来求解三维非线性水波的绕射问题,自由表面条件和物面条件都满足到二阶,采用人工阻尼区来吸收反射波,流场内的速度势通过求解有限元方程得到。对垂直圆柱体的绕射问题进行了计算,得到了自由表面波高时间历程和圆柱所受到的波浪力,计算结果和有关文献的理论计算结果进行了比较。     

波浪作用下粉土海床中的孔压响应试验研究

海床在波浪作用下是否稳定对海底工程的安全至关重要,海床的稳定性与土体中的孔压响应密切相关。水槽模拟试验表明:在波浪的作用下,黄河三角洲粉土海床中将产生振荡孔隙水压力和累积孔隙水压力。振荡孔隙水压力大小与土层深度、波高和粘粒含量有关,其振幅(能量)在土层中随深度的增加呈指数衰减,且粘粒含量越高衰减越快;加载波高越大,能量衰减越快。而累积孔压响应模式表现为在波浪作用最初的一段时间内,孔隙水压力快速上升,然后逐渐减小而趋于稳定,其大小和速率也与波高、粘粒含量、土层埋深有关,粘粒含量越高,孔压累积速度越低。     

Wave Action on Structures of Combined Cylinders

1.Introduction Owingtoitssignificanteffectofreductionofwaveloadsandwaverun up,theperforatedwallon anarrayofcylindricalstructureshasreceivedconsiderableattentioninrecentyears.Manyresearches havebeencarriedoutinthisfield.Anexactsolutionforthediffractionoflinearwaterwaveswithan arrayofimpermeablecylinderswasfirstgivenbySpringandMonkmeyer(1974)usinganeigenfunction expansionapproach.Subsequently,LintonandEvans(1990)madeamajorsimplificationtothetheo ry,whichallowedthenear fieldquantitiessuchasload…