Multidirectional wave transformation around detached breakwaters

The performance of the new wave diffraction feature of the shallow-water spectral model SWAN, particularly its ability to predict the multidirectional wave transformation around shore-parallel emerged breakwaters is examined using laboratory and field data. Comparison between model predictions and field measurements of directional spectra was used to identify the importance of various wave transformation processes in the evolution of the directional wave field. First, the model was evaluated against laboratory measurements of diffracted multidirectional waves around a breakwater shoulder. Excellent agreement between the model predictions and measurements was found for broad frequency and directional spectra. The performance of the model worsened with decreasing frequency and directional spread. Next, the performance of the model with regard to diffraction–refraction was assessed for directional wave spectra around detached breakwaters. Seven different field cases were considered: three wind–sea spectra with broad frequency and directional distributions, each coming from a different direction; two swell–sea bimodal spectra; and two swell spectra with narrow frequency and directional distributions. The new diffraction functionality in SWAN improved the prediction of wave heights around shore-parallel breakwaters. Processes such as beach reflection and wave transmission through breakwaters seem to have a significant role on transformation of swell waves behind the breakwaters. Bottom friction and wave–current interactions were less important, while the difference in frequency and directional distribution might be associated with seiching.     

Some applications of maximum entropy spectral estimation to ocean waves and linear systems response in waves

In traditional spectral analysis the use of windows is required because the assumption is made that the data outside the sample are zero. A data window is simply equal to unity inside, and zero outside the sample. This is equivalent to the truncation of the autocovariance function beyond some lag after which zeros are added. In Fast Fourier Transform spectral estimation a spectral window with smaller or greater negative side lobes is used. Any use of windows results in a smearing or spectral leakage that limits the spectral resolution. Maximum entropy spectral estimation (MEM) is equivalent to an extrapolation of the autocovariance function being consistent with some model assumptions. The result of the extrapolation is an increased spectral resolution in the frequency domain. In applications of MEM no kind of windows are used. MEM is applied to describe wind wave scalar spectra. The technique can also be used in the plane to estimate directional spectra. Our results show that MEM is a powerful tool for estimation of scalar spectra and simulation of the sea surface. There are also theoretical reasons for assuming that MEM are superior to traditional methods when only short samples are available. Our preliminary results verify this assumption. We propose a data acquisition system based on MEM, and also show that the response of linear systems can be calculated and simulated by MEM.     

Estimation Approaches of ηUV,PUV and UV Directional Wave Spectra and Their Comparison

The observation and estimation of directional spectra of sea waves is one of the essential subjects of study of oceanic dynamics. On the basis of the irregular linear wave theory, estimation methods for i/UV, PUV and VV directional wave spectra are derived. By using ij and PUV data measured in-situ, directional wave spectra are estimated, meanwhile the virtues and defects of various spectra are comparied. This method provide a basis for the observations of sea waves.     

论运动坐标系中的海浪谱

基于Galieo变换，导出了运动坐标系与静止坐标系中海浪谱间的关系。由于海浪是频散的，两者间的关系是频率相关的。运动坐标系中的海浪频谱是与静止坐标系中的海浪方向谱相联系的。以文氏谱作为静止坐标系中的海浪频谱，给出了不同速度下运动坐标系中的海浪频谱。     

分析海浪方向谱的扩展本征矢方法

采用Ｌｏｎｇｕｅｔ－Ｈｉｇｇｉｎｓ形式的方向分布函数作为已知谱，用模拟数据检验了作者是所提出的估计方法ＥＥＶ合理性，并与扩展最大似然方法（ＥＭＬＭ）及Ｌｙｇｒｅ等（１９８６）的最在熵方法（ＭＥＭ）作了比较，在验证和比较中，使用纵摇－横摇浮标，星形阵形和ＣＥＲＣ阵列作为复合阵列，计算表明，ＥＥＶ优于ＥＭＬＭ和ＥＭＥ。最后将ＥＥＶ和ＥＭＬＭ两种方法应用于仪器阵列的外海观测数据，得到了比较合理的海浪方向     

Estimation of multi-modal directional wave spectra from tri-orthogonal measurements

In this paper a technique is discussed for analyzing multi-modal directional wave spectra from tri-orthogonal measuring methods. The technique is illustrated for measurements, made with a three-dimensional acoustic current meter in the southern part of the North Sea.The examples given are discussed in the light of the meteorological situation prior to and during the time of recording. The method can be used for the separation of sea and swell, which is of importance for the calculation of wave loads on structures as will be shown finally.     

波谱仪调制功率谱估计算法性能的仿真研究

基于星载波谱仪海浪方向谱探测原理,仿真了不同海况、风速下的海浪波谱仪接收信号,并采用周期图法、Welch法、AR模型法以及最小方差法共4种不同的调制谱估计方法反演出海浪谱,比较各种调制谱估计方法的海浪方向谱反演性能。仿真结果表明:对于一定方位向下的一维海浪谱反演,不同调制谱估计方法反演海浪谱性能优劣没有绝对的顺序。对于二维海浪谱反演,在成长中海浪条件下周期图法反演性能最差,其他3种方法的反演性能没有绝对优劣顺序;对于成熟风浪,最小方差法在积分能量误差、有效波高误差两个指标上的反演性能最好,在主波波向、主波波长误差上,周期图法反演性能最差,其他3种方法没有绝对优劣顺序。在涌浪条件下,AR模型法反演性能优于其他3种方法。在不同海况下,随着波谱仪中心入射角的下降,反演性能会下降。基于这些仿真结果,本文推荐最小方差法作为充分成长海浪的海浪方向谱反演的调制谱估计方法,AR模型法作为涌浪海浪方向谱反演的调制谱估计方法。     

Directional wave spectra measured with a cloverleaf buoy during ARSLOE

The cloverleaf buoy is designed to determine the directional wave spectra with high directional resolution by measuring the vertical acceleration, surface slope, and curvature of the ocean wave surface. This paper describes the properties of the directional wave spectra measured with the cloverleaf buoy during the Atlantic Remote Sensing Land Ocean Experiment (ARSLOE). It is shown that the directional wave spectra measured under relatively constant wind agree fairly well with the similarity spectrum reported previously, but some differences are found in the spectral parameters. The differences in the scale parameters are attributed to unstable atmospheric conditions, though reasonable explanations for those in the shape parameters are difficult now.     

Maximum entropy estimation of directional wave spectra from an array of wave probes

A procedure for estimating directional wave spectra from an array of wave probes based on the Maximum Entropy Method (MEM) is developed in the present paper. The MEM approach yields an angular spreading function at each frequency band consistent with the input cross-spectral density matrix. The method is evaluated using numerical simulations of directional sea states. The MEM is also used to analyze data obtained from the three-dimensional wave basin of the Hydraulics Laboratory, National Research Council of Canada. Finally, the MEM is compared with the Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM) and is shown to be a powerful tool for directional wave analysis.     

Use of nautical radar as a wave monitoring instrument

Common marine X-Band radars can be used as a sensor to survey ocean wave fields. The wave field images provided by the radars are sampled and analysed by a wave monitoring system (called WaMoS II) developed by the German research institute GKSS. This measuring system can be mounted on a ship, on offshore stations or at coastal locations. The measurement is based on the backscatter of microwaves from the ocean surface, which is visible as ‘sea clutter' on the radar screen. From this observable sea clutter, a numerical analysis is carried out. The unambiguous directional wave spectrum, the surface currents and sea state parameters such as wave periods, wave lengths, and wave directions can be derived. To provide absolute wave heights, the response of the nautical radar must be calibrated. Similar to the wave height estimations for Synthetic Aperture Radars, the so-called ‘Signal to Noise Ratio' leads to the determination of the significant wave height (H_S). In this paper, WaMoS II results are compared with directional buoy data to show the capabilities of nautical microwave radars for sea state measurements.     

Directional sea spectrum determination using HF Doppler radar techniques

Second-order features in HF radar Doppler spectral data are compared with a theoretical model of the radar spectrum. The model is the corner reflector double-scatter model which employs a more realistic directional sea spectrum model than those used in earlier works. It includes a frequency-dependent angular spreading function and assumes the existence of spectral energy over a full360degarising from an apparent second-order wave-wave interaction. Comparison is made with ground wave data collected at the NRL/NOAA/ITS San Clemente Island HF radar.     

Detection of nonlinear waves and their contribution to ocean wave spectra Part I: Theoretical consideration

This is a Part I of a paper of nonlinearities of wind waves in the deep open ocean. First, considerations are given in order to verify the theoretical expression for bound waves from observed data. We compare the contribution of bound waves and double Bragg scattering to the second-order scattering, and we show that the contribution of bound waves is larger, and that bound waves can be detected by measuring the Doppler spectra of HF (high-frequency) radio wave scattering from the sea surface. Moreover, if the theory of the HF radio wave scattering from the sea surface is verified, so is the second-order perturbation theory for bound waves. Then, the contributions of bound waves to ocean wave spectra are investigated on the basis of the nonlinear theory. The bound waves are shown to modify frequency spectra and wave directional distributions at higher frequencies, and it is shown that although the modifications of frequency spectra are smaller for a two-dimensional field case than for a one-dimensional field case, they are not negligible at higher frequencies. On the other hand, the modifications of wave directional distributions are shown to be significant at higher frequencies. These discussions become significant only when bound wave predictions are verified in the open ocean. Consequently, it is shown that nonlinearities of water waves are important in considering both radio wave scattering from the sea surface and the detailed structures of ocean wave spectra at high frequencies.     

星载高级合成孔径雷达波模式算法及其反演数据精度验证

搭载在欧洲环境卫星(ENVISAT)上的高级合成孔径雷达(Advanced Synthetic Aperture Radar,ASAR)二级波模式数据提供了诸多海浪信息包括有效波高、波向、波长和二维海浪谱等,在海浪预报模式中具有重要作用。本文拟利用浮标观测数据对ASAR波模式算法及其反演数据精度进行对比验证。由于SAR卫星在海面的特殊成像机制,不同海况下会有不同的测量结果,通过与美国国家浮标中心(NDBC)的浮标数据对比,显示ASAR有效波高在高海况下低估和在低海况下高估的现象,在中等海况下的测量结果较优。通过研究ASAR数据集中对应的海浪谱,按照能量与方向分布可分为四种类型:单一方向海浪谱(Ⅰ类谱),180°方向模糊海浪谱(Ⅱ类谱),海浪两个方向且能量分布杂乱(Ⅲ类谱),多个传播方向且谱型杂乱海浪谱(Ⅳ类谱)。探究在不同类型下的海浪参数的精度,结果表明在单一波向正常海浪谱情况下,有效波高、波向与浮标数据一致性较好,存在180°方向模糊的对称海浪谱仅有效波高精度较高,谱型杂乱的海浪谱海浪有效波高和波向反演结果均较差。     

分析海浪方向谱的EEV方法的一种迭代形式

将Pawka为改进最大似然方法（MLM）而提出的迭代方案应用于扩展本征关方法（EEV），作为EEV的一种迭代形式（IEEV）。用模拟数据检验了IEEV的合理性，并与EEV作了比较。计算结果表明，IEEV的估计性状较EEV有改善。最后将IEEV及EEV用于分析仪器阵列的外海观测数据。     

方向分布对三维聚焦波浪波面特性影响研究

波浪聚焦被认为是产生极限波浪的重要机理之一,近年来受到普遍重视。通过高阶谱方法,引入造波边界建立数值计算模型,模拟聚焦波浪在不同方向分布时的产生和聚焦过程,研究波浪的方向分布对聚焦波浪的波面、波峰最大值、聚焦点的偏移、波面参数及频谱的影响。研究结果表明波浪方向分布越窄,波浪的非线性影响越强、波面越陡,波峰值、聚焦点的偏移和波面特征参数都越大;同时方向分布对波浪聚焦前后的能量具有很大的影响。     

分析海浪方向谱的扩展本征矢方法Ⅰ.方法的导出

基于交叉谱矩阵可以按本征值划分为信号和含有噪音部分的思想，提出了一种自直接测量数据估计海浪方向谱的方法。该方法称为扩展本征矢方法（EEV），可应用于单点测量系统、仪器阵列以及由二者构成的复合阵列。现有的某些估计方法（如最大似然方法及其扩展形式等）仅是此方法的某种特例。     

随机海浪的列率谱分析研究

首次将列率谱分析的方法引入到随机海浪的研究。根据不同环境条件下实验室资料，对列率谱与频率谱进行了比较。结果表明，列率频对频率谱高频部分有明显改善，特别对二倍频含能段的分辨具有明显的优越性。另外，列率谱具有计算速度快、简单易行、分辨率高等优点。     

Elimination of directional wave spectrum contamination from noise in elevation measurements

The Surface Contour Radar (SCR) is a 36-GHz computer-controlled airborne radar which generates a false-color-coded elevation map of the sea surface below the aircraft in real time, and can routinely produce ocean directional wave spectra with post-flight data processing which have much higher angular resolution than pitch-and-roll buoys. The SCR range measurements are not error-free and the resulting errors in the elevations corrupt the directional wave spectrum. This paper presents a technique for eliminating that contamination.     

Detection of nonlinear waves and their contribution to ocean wave spectra Part II: Observation

This is a Part II of a paper of nonlinearities of wind waves in the deep open ocean. As shown in Part I, bound waves in deep sea are detectable by extracting secondorder Doppler spectra from the Doppler spectra of HF (high-frequency) radio waves scattered from the sea surface. There is a remarkable agreement between the calculated and measured Doppler spectra, considering the noise levels in measured Doppler spectra and the uncertainties in directional properties. The theoretical expression for bound waves is thus verified. Furthermore, the upper limit in calculating the Doppler spectra for the second-order approximation is presented from field observations, although we cannot conclude that it is equivalent to the limitation of the second-order bound wave theory. It is shown that analysis of radio wave scattering by the sea surface is one useful means of understanding the nonlinear properties of ocean waves.