Grain‐size distributions and coastal morphodynamics along the southern Maryland and Virginia barrier islands

This study examined grain‐size distributions to address questions regarding geological and oceanographic controls on island morphodynamics along one of the longest undeveloped, mixed‐energy barrier island systems in the world. In particular, statistical analyses (i.e. analysis of variance, Tukey honest significant difference multiple comparison tests, nonparametric statistics and linear regression analysis) of 230 barrier island samples from Ocean City Inlet, Maryland, to the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay and 134 nearshore samples (d ≤ 10 m) identified grain‐size trends related to the morphodynamic characteristics of these systems. In general, the Virginia barrier islands north of Wachapreague Inlet and Assateague Island form a statistically different subset of grain sizes (medium‐grained to coarse‐grained sand) from the islands south of Wachapreague Inlet (fine‐grained sand). These textural trends corroborate the Pleistocene headlands of the Delmarva coastal compartment as the sediment source and indicate that some of the coarse‐grained to medium‐grained sediment bypasses the large sinks in the net southward longshore sediment transport system (i.e. Fishing Point and Chincoteague Inlet). This research also demonstrates that the preferential accumulation of coarse‐grained to medium‐grained sand on the ebb‐tidal delta at Wachapreague Inlet probably controls the erosional morphodynamics of the islands located downdrift (south) of the inlet. These results suggest that an increase in tidal prism, set up by sea‐level rise and/or a shift in wave climate/refraction patterns, may lead to barrier island fragmentation and a runaway transgression of this predominantly natural barrier island system. Consequently, a grain analysis of major coastal compartments, across multiple driving forces, can be used to assess coastal morphodynamics and the potential impact of climate change on coastal systems.     

曹妃甸老龙沟潮汐通道拦门沙演变机制

渤海湾曹妃甸老龙沟海区属于泻湖型潮汐通道体系,口门附近发育有大规模拦门沙浅滩。由于沿岸泥沙供给不足,近几十年来东坑坨等沙坝外侧海区整体呈侵蚀冲刷态势,等深线向陆蚀退。老龙沟西支深槽也以侵蚀作用为主,而拦门沙地区滩槽冲淤变化则与东坑坨演变密切相关。其中东槽冲刷发展主要是东坑坨西南尾端淤长压迫老龙沟口门,引起岬角效应增大、潮流动力增强所致,而西槽的摆动现象则主要与东槽发展所产生的挤压作用有关。由于泥沙供给不足,近年来东槽发展和西槽摆动的速度都有明显减缓。     

汪额诺格岛(北海)与大陆之间障壁潮坪的沉积物:粘土矿物、重金属和有机碳

本文目的在于说明有限区域内潮坪小环境沉积物的矿物学和地球化学特点及沉积过程的改造作用。沉积物样品取自汪额诺格岛与联邦德国的德国湾南岸之间的障壁潮坪。粒度分析表明,障壁潮坪由大体平行于大陆的泥坪、混合坪到砂坪三个带组成。粘土矿物以伊利石为主,其次为蒙脱石、高岭石和绿泥石,与北海粘土矿物组合一致。粘土矿物组成和重金属Fe、Mn、Cu、Pb、Zn含量在潮坪不同部位相差无几,说明沉积物受到潮汐水流反覆侵蚀和再沉积作用的混合作用。近潮口附近有机碳含量增高是潮汐水流从北海通过进潮口携入有机物的结果。     

Correlations between Holocene flood tidal delta and barrier island inlet fill sequences: Back Sound-Shackleford Banks, North Carolina

Large, well-developed flood tidal deltas on a barrier island coastline generally indicate a wave-dominated, microtidal sedimentary regime. Vibracores in a lagoon behind the barrier island Shackleford Banks, North Carolina contain an upward fining sequence of coarse-medium, very shelly sand, medium-fine laminated sand, fine-very fine cross-laminated sand and marsh mud. This sequence is interpreted as being a flood tidal delta deposit based on analogy with modern flood tidal delta sediments and represents lagoonal deposition in response to a migrating or closing inlet. The sand facies defined in lagoonal vibracores is found to be continuous beneath a lagoonal marsh and correlative with inlet sections identified in Shackleford Banks drill holes. The correlation of flood tidal delta deposits with inlet sequences in this microtidal environment indicates a close relationship between barrier and backbarrier inlet controlled sedimentation.     

渤海湾西部表层沉积物粒度特征与沉积混合

根据渤海湾西部135个表层沉积物样品的粒度分析结果,分析了表层沉积物的粒度特征与规律。整体上由研究区东北部沿海岸向南沉积物粒度变细,由砂和粉砂质砂变为砂质粉砂,再变为粘土质粉砂。沉积物粒度频率曲线显示,由研究区东北部至北部,沉积物粗组分含量减少,由单峰逐渐过渡为主峰或弱峰,到中部粗组分减少为粗尾形态,到南部粗组分几乎缺失;而沉积物细组分的变化趋势则与之相反。沉积物粗组分在粒度频率曲线上的表现由单峰逐渐过渡至主峰或次峰,粗峰含量减少,到中部粗组分减少为粗尾形态,到南部粗组分几乎消失;而沉积物细组分的变化趋势则与之相反。沉积物粒度参数的平面分布规律和粒度参数之间的相关性变化形态显示出粗细2种母质组分以不同比例的沉积混合的特征,即来自东北部的粗组分与来自南部的细组分发生混合,这可能主要与区内双向的沿岸环流输运有关。     

Seafloor environmental changes resulting from nineteenth century reclamation in Mishou Bay, Bungo Channel, Southwest Japan

This study reconstructed environmental changes to the seafloor associated with reclamation in Mishou Bay, Bungo Channel, Japan, based on measurements of sediment grain size, organic matter and sulfur contents of surface sediments and data from sediment cores. Grain size within sediment cores from the middle of Mishou Bay decreased from the beginning of the 1800s to the 1900s. In contrast, a grain size profile from the river mouth shows a gradual increase in grain size up through the sediment core. These changes in grain size indicate a decrease in tidal current velocity within the middle of the bay and that the delta system is gradually prograding from the river mouth. Records of organic matter composition and sulfur contents indicate that the effect of the river on seafloor sedimentation became stronger during the nineteenth century. These changes are related to reclamation during the late 1700s and 1800s. The decrease in sea area resulting from reclamation probably led to a decrease in tidal prism and current velocity. It is likely that the increasing effect of river water on sedimentation is associated with reclamation-related progradation of the river delta system.     

Zur Geometrie von Wellenrippeln in Sanden unterschiedlicher Korngröße

Field research of wave generated bed forms within complex sediment size distributions near the inlet of a tidal lagoon at the northern coast of Brittany has stimulated an experimental study in a laboratory wave tank. Several sediment mixtures, most of them with bimodal grain size distributions, were exposed to different monochromatic shallow water waves. The observations and measurements included the dynamics of the water waves and the generation, shape, and size of oscillatory bed forms. The experiments confirm the known relationship between grain size and ripple size. In addition it is shown that coarse sand, added to a preexisting fine bed material leads to an increasing asymmetry of ripples. There is some suggestion that the variability of ripple heights is reduced by higher contents of coarse sand. Bimodal sediment size distributions obviously do not cause unusual geometry of ripples — at least within the range of the experimental tests. The different sand size modes move together in one phase, forming structures with more or less homogeniously distributed bed material. Differentiation of sediment sorting does of course occur, but this is in the range of the whole test section. Finally the experiments allowed to test the validity of some wave formulas. The own experiments are compared with some results from field and laboratory studies of other authors.     

长江三角洲ZK01孔末次盛冰期以来沉积物粒度特征及环境演化

根据长江三角洲ZK01孔的粒度资料,从粒度参数、斜体图、概率累积曲线和频率分布曲线等对末次盛冰期以来的沉积物粒度特征进行了详细分析,并结合沉积物的岩性、沉积构造和有孔虫的分布特点,探讨了该区末次盛冰期以来的沉积环境演化。分析表明,ZK01孔末次盛冰期以来,沉积物自下而上可分为5段:河床沉积物以砂和砾质砂为主,粒度概率累积曲线为以跳跃总体为主的两段式;河漫滩相为砂质和黏土互层,概率累积曲线呈以悬浮总体为主的具过渡的两段式,频率分布曲线为双峰或多峰式;河口湾沉积物的粒度参数变化显著,在C-M图上表现为粗细分异明显的两类,对应两种两段式累积曲线,频率分布曲线亦有单峰和双峰式两类;浅海相主要为淤泥质黏土,粒度参数较稳定,概率累积曲线为一段式,几乎均为悬浮总体;三角洲沉积物以细砂和粉砂为主,概率累积曲线为以跳跃总体为主的具过渡的两段式。研究区该时期依次经历了河床、河漫滩、河口湾、浅海和三角洲等5种沉积环境。     

黄河三角洲滨海区沉积物的分异特征与规律

根据2000年79月黄河三角洲滨海区表层沉积物的分析结果,运用F lem ing的三角图式对沉积环境进行划分,并在此基础上结合沉积物结构、地形和水动力条件,探讨了沉积物的分布规律及其作用机制。结果表明:研究区域可划分为废弃三角洲滨海区、现行河口区和莱州湾滨海区三个沉积环境。对于废弃三角洲沉积区,在早期废弃的湾湾沟海区风浪作用为主,沉积物普遍较粗,抗冲能力较强;废弃不久的飞雁滩海区在波流联合作用下,沉积物粒径由岸向海变细,大致在-5-6m水深处存在一明显的界限,该水深以浅砂含量较高;而该水深以深以粉砂和粘土为主,砂含量较低。现行河口区,由于沙嘴前方强潮流带的作用,沉积物粒径由岸向海表现为粗—细—粗的演变趋势。在莱州湾海区,由于潮流场的影响,以广利河河口为界,以北粒径较细,而以南则较粗。      

海南岛洋浦湾沉积作用研究

本文对海南岛洋浦湾海域的洋浦湾、新英湾、洋浦深槽及拦门沙浅滩的沉积环境和沉积特征做了描述、讨论，对河流、海岸侵蚀和珊瑚礁生物的３种沉积物来源及数量做了分析计算，得出其总量为９×１０⁴ｍ^３／ａ。根据钻孔柱状样的¹⁴Ｃ及²¹⁰Ｐｂ分析，得出８０００ａＢ．Ｐ．以来沉积速率为０．１～０．２ｃｍ／ａ，近百年来沉积速率为１～２ｃｍ／ａ。     

Temporal and spatial evolution of surface sediments characteristics in the Dagu River estuary and their dynamic response mechanism

Based on the 39 surface sediment samples collected in the flood season and the dry season in 2012 respectively and the measured hydrological data in October 2012, the sediment grain size characteristics has been analyzed and the response mechanism of surface sediments to estuarine hydrodynamics was revealed by calculating the range of waves and tidal currents. The results show that: (1) The grain size of the surface sediment samples decreased gradually from land to sea in the flood season. The fine sediment was redistributed under marine hydrodynamics in the dry season and the sediments showed coarser tendency ingeneral; (2) tidal current stirring sediment was very obvious in Dagu River estuary area, and wave stirring sediments mainly occurred in the tidal flat area and estuary sand bar area; (3) in the flood season, surface sediment sat the estuary were transported towards south and southeast. In the dry season, surface sediments were transported towards southwest at the north area of Jiaozhou Bay Bridge, and sediments were transported towards northeast area at the south of Jiaozhou Bay Bridge.     

长江口现代潮滩沉积物粒度特征及其在沉积相识别中的应用

本研究通过对长江口现代潮滩6个柱状样沉积物的粒度精细分析,试图提取研究区潮滩沉积相识别的粒度敏感指标,并通过对长江三角洲南部平原一个全新世钻孔(SL67孔)潮滩沉积物的粒度研究,检验现代沉积粒度敏感指标在全新世钻孔潮滩沉积相识别中的应用。研究显示,长江口现代高潮滩和中潮滩的黏性颗粒(8μm)和粗粉砂(32~63μm)含量差异显著,可以成为区分高潮滩和中潮滩的敏感组分;在开敞型的中、低潮滩之间,砂(63μm)和细粉砂含量(8~32μm)也差异明显。长江口现代潮滩沉积物的粒度频率曲线及众数值也可以有效协助区分高潮滩、中潮滩和低潮滩沉积物。利用上述粒度敏感组分和众数指标检验SL67孔全新世早中期在海平面波动控制下的潮滩演替过程,并揭示了7.5 cal ka BP前后的一次海平面加速上升事件。     

辽河口海口沉积特征及潮滩动态预测

本文以翔实的调查资料较详细的叙述了辽河口浅海区的沉积特征,分别总结了潮滩、浅海、潮道及潮沟等单元体的沉积特征,并分析了各单元体的沉积过程,文章重点叙述了潮滩的动态变化,并根据210Pb测定沉积速率资料及河流输沙量观测资料,分别建立预测方程,估算了双台河口东、西两段潮滩的极限淤涨时间及潮滩淤涨高度预测,两种计算方法所获得的结果基本上一致。     

Sediment distribution and evolution of tidal deltas along a tide-dominated shoreline, Wachapreague, Virginia

Borings from the barrier island/lagoon system of the Eastern Shore of Virginia penetrated an unconformity which separates Pleistocene barrier island and offshore marine sediments from the overlying Holocene tidal delta and barrier island sediments. Offshore marine sediments and deposits within the flood-tidal delta (marsh, tidal flat-bay, inlet-mouth bar complex) are recognized on the basis of sediment color, composition, grain-size changes in the vertical sequence, presence of organic matter, and faunal suite. Subsurface data, historical records, and morphology of lateral accretion on barrier islands suggest that major inlets in the vicinity of Wachapreague have been relatively stable throughout Holocene time; they appear to be located where Pleistocene stream valleys previously existed. Holocene barrier islands apparently developed on drainage divide areas following post-Wisconsin transgression of the sea.

The initial phase of tidal delta development was characterized by vertically accreting, fan-shaped, inlet-mouth bars; tidal channels stabilized after bar crests had shoaled sufficiently for marsh to form. With landward progradation across the lagoon, sand-rich deposits graded laterally away from the inlets and vertically into clayey sand and silty clay of the tidal flat-bay and marsh environments.

Ebb inlet-mouth bars developed asymmetrically southward in response to littoral drift. Flood tidal deltas also built preferentially toward the south as indicated by: (1) sand distribution of the inlet-mouth bar complex; and (2) greater development of marsh south of the inlets.     

珠江口盆地下中新早期的水下潮汐三角洲

珠江口盆地第一次大规模海侵,发生在晚渐新世末期的陆架沉降过程中,使长期处于封闭状态的陆相断陷湖盆,逐渐向半封闭的海盆转化.由于盆地与广海之间的通道较狭窄,造成了半封闭浅海内较强烈的潮汐作用,潮汐砂体十分发育,其中下中新统沉积早期(下珠江组)的水下潮汐三角洲砂体是在盆地水域不断扩大背景下.在涨潮流与退潮流的频繁作用下,于潮汐通道附近的三角区域内建造起来的.水下潮汐三角洲主要由潮汐砂坝(砂脊)构造,为多套向上变粗的韵律层,其结构、构造有别于河砂和海滩砂.本文论述了水下潮汐三角洲发生、发展与消亡的兴衰史,并对其沉积特征进行了描述.     

障壁岛—潟湖沉积特征及模式:以美国普拉姆岛上更新统—全新统为例*

普拉姆岛(Plum island)是美国东北部缅因湾最大的障壁海岸,岛内向陆一侧为新英格兰地区最大潟湖和沼泽区,它们是晚第四纪末次冰期冰川作用和冰后期海岸作用的沉积响应。通过普拉姆岛研究区上更新统—全新统160个钻孔描述,识别出8种沉积物: 泥炭、冰川黏土、黏土、粉砂、细砂、中粗砂、砾、坠石。根据沉积物类型及其组合特征,结合沉积环境,共划分出8种沉积微相: 障壁沙丘、滨岸沙、水下临滨沙、河道、潮汐水道、潟湖、潮坪、沼泽。研究区在晚第四纪末次冰盛期(MIS2)被劳伦斯蒂德冰盖(Laurentide Ice Sheet)覆盖,发育冰川地貌,冰川泥覆盖在基岩之上,形成底层沉积; 冰后期(MIS1),冰盖消融,海平面发生变化,在冰川地貌鼓丘附近形成沙坝,最终沉积演化为障壁岛—潟湖环境,潟湖通过潮汐水道与广海相连通。     

海南四更沙海域沉积物分布及其受控机制

基于海南西部四更沙及其邻近海域185个底质的粒度数据,并结合研究区动力状况和水深地形特征,研究表层沉积物的组分和类型分布、粒度参数及其沉积环境分区。结果表明:①研究区沉积物类型多样,包括12种沉积类型,以砂质粉砂、粉砂、粉砂质砂和含砾砂为主,沉积物平均粒径变化范围较大(-0.70~7.13 φ),且大体呈现由北向南逐渐变细的分布趋势;②运用Fleming的三角图式,结合物源状况及地形地貌条件,对沉积环境进行划分,将研究区划分为四更沙岸外海滨沉积区、北黎湾中部沉积区和八所港近岸沉积区等3个沉积区;③研究区沉积物分布特征受沉积物来源和水动力及地形条件共同影响。横向分布上,西部主要受强潮流输沙影响,东部近岸则主要受波浪掀沙和搬运作用影响,表现为两侧粗,中间相对较细的特征。纵向上,四更沙岸外海滨沉积区,沉积物主要受昌化江影响,粒径粗,表现为河口沉积特征;北黎湾中部沉积区,沉积物粒径分布范围广,表现为较强的过渡区特性;八所港近岸沉积区,沉积物粒径最细,泥沙来源主要为外海带来的泥沙。     

Morphologic and stratigraphic evolution of muddy ebb-tidal deltas along a subsiding coast: Barataria Bay, Mississippi River delta

The Barataria barrier coast formed between two major distributaries of the Mississippi River delta: the Plaquemines deltaic headland to the east and the Lafourche deltaic headland to the west. Rapid relative sea‐level rise (1·03 cm year^?1) and other erosional processes within Barataria Bay have led to substantial increases in the area of open water (> 775 km² since 1956) and the attendant bay tidal prism. Historically, the increase in tidal discharge at inlets has produced larger channel cross‐sections and prograding ebb‐tidal deltas. For example, the ebb delta at Barataria Pass has built seaward > 2·2 km since the 1880s. Shoreline erosion and an increasing bay tidal prism also facilitated the formation of new inlets. Four major lithofacies characterize the Barataria coast ebb‐tidal deltas and associated sedimentary environments. These include a proximal delta facies composed of massive to laminated, fine grey‐brown to pale yellow sand and a distal delta facies consisting of thinly laminated, grey to pale yellow sand and silty sand with mud layers. The higher energy proximal delta deposits contain a greater percentage of sand (75–100%) compared with the distal delta sediments (60–80%). Associated sedimentary units include a nearshore facies consisting of horizontally laminated, fine to very fine grey sand with mud layers and an offshore facies that is composed of grey to dark grey, laminated sandy silt to silty clay. All facies coarsen upwards except the offshore facies, which fines upwards. An evolutionary model is presented for the stratigraphic development of the ebb‐tidal deltas in a regime of increasing tidal energy resulting from coastal land loss and tidal prism growth. Ebb‐tidal delta facies prograde over nearshore sediments, which interfinger with offshore facies. The seaward decrease in tidal current velocity of the ebb discharge produces a gradational contact between proximal and distal tidal delta facies. As the tidal discharge increases and the inlet grows in dimensions, the proximal and distal tidal delta facies prograde seawards. Owing to the relatively low gradient of the inner continental shelf, the ebb‐tidal delta lithosome is presently no more than 5 m thick and is generally only 2–3 m in thickness. The ebb delta sediment is sourced from deepening of the inlet and the associated channels and from the longshore sediment transport system. The final stage in the model envisages erosion and segmentation of the barrier chain, leading to a decrease in tidal discharge through the former major inlets. This process ultimately results in fine‐grained sedimentation seaward of the inlets and the encasement of the ebb‐tidal delta lithosome in mud. The ebb‐tidal deltas along the Barataria coast are distinguished from most other ebb deltas along sand‐rich coasts by their muddy content and lack of large‐scale stratification produced by channel cut‐and‐fills and bar migration.     

河海交互作用沉积与平原地貌发育*

河流是搬运陆源泥沙的主要动力,对相邻的海岸海洋沉积动力有巨大影响。中国河流汇入海洋中的泥沙曾占全球入海泥沙的10 ％ ,现代中国边缘海大陆架在晚更新世时曾是海岸平原,河-海交互作用是形成海岸平原与浅海输积泥沙的主要因素。本文选择5个不同类型的河流展示其不同的泥沙运动与河口沉积的特性以及对相邻陆架之影响,包括: 1)强潮型动力的鸭绿江河口湾,形成从陆向海与从海向陆的双向水流交汇沉积,海岸形成潮流脊体系。 2)季风波浪为主导动力的滦河口,以泥沙的横向运动为主,形成沙坝环绕的双重海岸,沉积粒径自海向陆减小; 沿岸浪流携运泥沙向河口两侧分布,使沙坝具有沙咀状的复合特点。 3)弱潮型、多沙的黄河口,径流于两侧堆积指状沙咀,沙咀下风侧形成粉砂粘土淤泥湾,沿岸流携运泥沙向渤海湾延伸为淤泥舌。 4)径流与沿岸流组合作用的沉积模式,以长江口为代表,泥沙沿岸向南输运为主导,向海岸与向内陆架构成颗粒变细的带状沉积,外陆架出露残留砂。 5)充填河口湾的三角洲,以珠江为代表,河流分汊与会潮点泥沙堆积,悬移质扩散至湾外,被沿岸流携带沿海岸向SW运移,外陆架为残留砂沉积。20世纪80年代以来,上述河流均受到人为活动的改造影响,河流自然过程与河海交互作用效应均发生改变。本文主要以滦河三角洲为例阐述河-海交互作用与平原的地貌特征。     

福建安海湾表层沉积物粒度特征及其现代沉积过程分析

通过对福建安海湾表层沉积物的粒度分析和对比,应用系统聚类分析、粒径趋势模型和切应力计算公式,探讨了研究区粒度的分布特征、沉积环境分区、表层沉积物输运趋势及其影响因素.研究结果表明,研究区包括6种表层沉积物类型,以黏土质粉砂和粉砂为主,沉积物大体呈现自海湾两侧潮滩向潮汐通道变粗的分布趋势.表层沉积物粒度的分布特征与水动力条件和物质来源密切相关,湾口附近及湾内深槽内,细颗粒的沉积物被再悬浮带走,粗颗粒的含量增大;在湾内潮滩上,悬浮物质因水动力作用逐渐减弱发生分选沉降,形成向岸变细的横向分异.海湾外泥沙随潮流不断地向海湾东侧岸滩运移,海湾周边陆源来沙由湾顶部往湾口方向下泄,两者是导致表层沉积物出现明显的顺时针方向汇聚趋势的原因之一;表层沉积物的输运趋势、悬浮泥沙的输运、潮滩植被与湾口沙嘴的遮蔽效应共同影响了研究区内浅滩地形的形成和变化.研究区可分为四类沉积环境区,以潮滩和潮汐通道环境为主,不同沉积区内的粒度参数、粒级频率和敏感粒级均有差异,动力条件差异和不同物源的影响程度是现代沉积环境格局的主要影响因素.