Gerris在海洋大振幅内孤立波数值模拟中的应用

本文运用基于自适应网格的流体动力学开源软件Gerris,来建立基于Boussinesq近似下的二维不可压缩Euler方程组的数值模型,以模拟不同层化条件下稳定状态的完全非线性大振幅内孤立波。文中比较了完全非线性的用Gerris实现的Euler模型与弱非线性的KdV理论模型在刻画大振幅内孤立波结构及特征参数上的差异,说明在模拟大振幅内孤立波时,高阶非线性不应忽略。Euler模型模拟结果表明,完全非线性大振幅内孤立波的等密度面半宽度随深度变化,这使得基于KdV方程解析解、利用卫星SAR(Synthetic Aperture Radar)图像提取内孤立波极值间距来反演内波振幅的可行性存疑,需要重新评估。此外,本文用两组实测数据验证了用Gerris实现的Euler模型模拟大振幅内波的有效性。     

Numerical Simulation of Waves Generated by Seafloor Movements

Waves generated by vertical seafloor movements are simulated by use of a fully nonlinear two-dimensional numerical wave tank. In the souree region, the seafloor lifts to a designated height by a generation function. The numerical tests show that the linear theory is only valid for estimating the wave behaviors induced by the seafloor movements with a small amplitude, and the fully nonlinear numerical model should be adopted in the simulation of the wave generation by the large amplitude seafloor movements. Without the background surface waves, many numerical tests on the stable maximum elevations η0^max are carried out by beth the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model. The results of two models are compared and analyzed. For the fully nonlinear model, the influences of the amplitudes and the horizontal lengths on η^max are stronger than that of the characteristic duration times. Furthermore, results reveal that there are significant differences be- tween the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model. When the influences of the background surface waves are considered, the corresponding numerical analyses reveal that with the fully nonlinear model the η0^max near-linearly varies with the wave amplitudes of the surface waves, and the η0^max has significant dependences on the wave lengths and the wave phases of the surface waves. In addition, the differences between the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model are still obvious, and these differences are significantly affected by the wave parameters of the background surface waves, such as the wave amplitude, the wave length and the wave phase.     

Narrow banded wave propagation from very deep waters to the shore

A fully nonlinear Boussinessq-type model with several free coefficients is considered as a departure point. The model is monolayer and low order so as to simplify numerical solvability. The coefficients of the model are here considered functions of the local water depth. In doing so, we allow to improve the dispersive and shoaling properties for narrow banded wave trains in very deep waters. In particular, for monochromatic waves the dispersion and shoaling errors are bounded by ~ 2.8% up to kh = 100, being k the wave number and h the water depth. The proposed model is fully nonlinear in weakly dispersive conditions, so that nonlinear wave decomposition in shallower waters is well reproduced. The model equations are numerically solved using a fourth order scheme and tested against analytical solutions and experimental data.     

Viscosity and nonlinearity effects on the forces and waves generated by a floating twin hull under heave oscillation

Nonlinear hydrodynamics of a twin rectangular hull under heave oscillation is analyzed using numerical methods. Two-dimensional nonlinear time-domain solutions to both inviscid and viscous problems are obtained and the results are compared with linear, inviscid frequency-domain results obtained in [26] to quantify nonlinear and viscous effects. Finite-difference methods based on boundary-fitted coordinates are used for solving the governing equations in the time domain [2]. A primitive-variables based projection method [6] is used for the viscous analysis and a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation [11] for inviscid analysis. The algorithms are validated and the order of accuracy determined by comparing the results obtained from the present algorithm with the experimental results of Vugt [22] for a heaving rectangle in the free surface. The present study on the twin-hull hydrodynamics shows that at large and non-resonant regular frequencies, and small amplitude of body oscillation, the fluid viscosity does not significantly affect the wave motion and the radiation forces. At low frequencies however the viscosity effect is found to be significant even for small amplitude of body oscillation. In particular, the hydrodynamic force obtained from the nonlinear viscous analysis is found to be closer to the linear inviscid force than the nonlinear inviscid force to the linear inviscid force, the reason for which is attributed to the wave dampening effect of viscosity. Since the wave lengths generated at smaller frequencies of oscillation are longer and therefore the waves could have a more significant effect on the dynamic pressure on the bottom of the hulls which contribute to the heave force, the correlation between the heave force and the wave elevation is found to be larger at smaller frequencies. Because of nonlinearity, the wave radiation and wave damping force remained nonzero even at and around the resonant frequencies – with the resonant frequencies as determined in [26] using linear potential flow theory. As to be expected, the nonlinear effect on the wave force is found to be significant at all frequencies for large amplitude of oscillation compared to the hull draft. The effect of viscosity on the force, by flow separation, is also found to be significant for large amplitude of body oscillation.     

Deterministic and stochastic evolution equations for fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear waves

This paper presents a new and more accurate set of deterministic evolution equations for the propagation of fully dispersive, weakly nonlinear, irregular, multidirectional waves. The equations are derived directly from the Laplace equation with leading order nonlinearity in the surface boundary conditions. It is demonstrated that previous fully dispersive formulations from the literature have used an inconsistent linear relation between the velocity potential and the surface elevation. As a consequence these formulations are accurate only in shallow water, while nonlinear transfer of energy is significantly underestimated for larger wave numbers. In the present work we correct this inconsistency. In addition to the improved deterministic formulation, we present improved stochastic evolution equations in terms of the energy spectrum and the bispectrum for multidirectional waves. The deterministic and stochastic formulations are solved numerically for the case of cross shore motion of unidirectional waves and the results are verified against laboratory data for wave propagation over submerged bars and over a plane slope. Outside the surf zone the two model predictions are generally in good agreement with the measurements, and it is found that the accuracy of e.g., the energy spectrum and of the third-order statistics is considerably improved by the new formulations, particularly outside the shallow-water range.     

Applicability of numerical models to nonlinear dispersive waves

The applicability of three different wave-propagation models in nonlinear dispersive wave fields has been investigated. The numerical models tested here are based on three different wave theories: a fully nonlinear potential theory, a Stokes second-order theory, and a Boussinesq-type theory with an improved dispersion relation. Physical experiments and computations were conducted for wave evolutions during passage over a submerged shelf under various wave conditions. As expected, the fully nonlinear solutions agree better with the measurements than do the other solutions. Although the second-order solution has sufficient accuracy for smaller-amplitude wave cases, the truncation after the third harmonics causes significant discrepancies in wave form for larger waves. In addition, the second-order model markedly overestimates the first- and second-harmonic amplitudes in transmitted waves. The Boussinesq model provides excellent predictions of wave profile over the shelf even in larger wave cases. However, this model also overestimates the magnitudes of several higher harmonics in transmitted waves. These facts may indicate that energy transfer from bound components into free waves in these higher harmonics cannot be accurately evaluated by the Boussinesq-type equations.     

Numerical Model of Internal Solitary Wave Evolution on Impermeable Variable Seabed in A Stratified Two-Layer Fluid System

1.IntroductionIn mathematics and physics,a soliton is a self-reinforcing solitary wave caused by nonlinear ef-fectsinthe medium.Solitons are found in many physical phenomena(Chou and Shih,1996;Chouand Quyang,1999;Chouet al.,2003;Chenet al.,2004;Wang,2004;…     

A weakly dispersive edge wave model

We derive a general linear, weakly dispersive, Boussinesq-type equation that can be used to study edge waves on beaches with slow cross-shore variation of the depth and the alongshore current. The equation is more accurate than the non-dispersive shallow water equations and simpler than the fully dispersive elliptic mild slope equation (especially for a non-zero alongshore current). The improved performance of the new Boussinesq-type model is demonstrated using analytic solutions for edge waves on a plane beach with zero alongshore current.     

完全非线性波浪与二维固定结构物作用的IGN-BEM耦合分析模型

为高效准确地对完全非线性波浪与二维固定结构物的相互作用进行模拟分析,建立了二维完全非线性时域耦合模型。耦合模型将计算域划分为靠近结构物的内域和远离结构物的外域,每个区域均采用满足完全非线性自由水面边界条件的波浪模型进行求解。在内域使用Laplace方程描述流体运动并采用高阶边界元法（BEM）对其进行求解;而在没有结构物的外域,波浪运动的控制方程为Irrotational Green-Naghdi（IGN）方程并采用有限元法（FEM）对其进行求解。内域和外域通过一段重叠区域进行耦合,从而实现模型间变量的传递。首先利用耦合模型分别对规则波的传播、直墙前立波的生成以及相关物理模型试验进行模拟,数值结果与精确解和试验结果的良好吻合验证了耦合模型耦合方式的合理性以及处理非线性问题的准确性;然后使用耦合模型模拟分析了波浪与固定结构物间的相互作用,并将结果与线性解析解以及完全非线性BEM模型的结果进行了对比分析,进一步证明了耦合模型的正确性与高效性。     

Nonlinear response of membranes to ocean waves using boundary and finite elements

The behavior of a highly deformable membrane to ocean waves was studied by coupling a nonlinear boundary element model of the fluid domain to a nonlinear finite element model of the membrane. The hydrodynamic loadings induced by water waves are computed assuming large body hydrodynamics and ideal fluid flow and then solving the transient diffraction/radiation problem. Either linear waves or finite amplitude waves can be assumed in the model and thus the nonlinear kinematic and dynamic free surface boundary conditions are solved iteratively. The nonlinear nature of the boundary condition requires a time domain solution. To implicitly include time in the governing field equation, Volterra's method was used. The approach is the same as the typical boundary element method for a fluid domain where the governing field equation is the starting point. The difference is that in Volterra's method the time derivative of the governing field equation becomes the starting point.The boundary element model was then coupled through an iterative process to a finite element model of membrane structures. The coupled model predicts the nonlinear interaction of nonlinear water waves with highly deformable bodies. To verify the coupled model a large scale test was conducted in the OH Hinsdale wave Research Laboratory at Oregon State University on a 3-ft-diameter fabric cylinder submerged in the wave tank. The model data verified the numerical prediction of the structure displacements and of the changes in the wave field.The boundary element model is an ideal modeling technique for modeling the fluid domain when the governing field equations is the Laplace equation. In this case the nonlinear boundary element model was coupled with a finite element model of membrane structures, but the model could have been coupled with other finite element models of more rigid structures, such as a pontoon floating breakwater.     

THE NONLINEAR INTERNAL GRAVITY WAVES IN STRATIFIED FLUID

In this paper, starting from the equations of the nonlinear internal gravity waves in stratified fluid, using the method of the Taylor expansion nearby the equilibrium point for the nonlinear terms, we find the analytical solutions for nonlinear internal gravity waves. The linear internal gravity waves and solitary waves are its special cases. The nonlinear internal gravity waves satisfy the well-known KdV (Karteweg-de Vries) equation. The nonlinear internal gravity waves are different from linear waves in character. The former dispersive relation contains the amplitude, but the latter does not. The larger the amplitude and the wavelength the faster are waves for the nonlinear internal gravity waves. The smaller the stability of the stratification, the larger is the wavelength (or the width). Some phenomena such as squall line, cumulus, turbulent mass structure in atmosphere, and thermocline in ocean have these natures.     

Probability distribution of random wave–current forces

Based on the second-order solutions obtained for the three-dimensional weakly nonlinear random waves propagating over a steady uniform current in finite water depth, the joint statistical distribution of the velocity and acceleration of the fluid particle in the current direction is derived using the characteristic function expansion method. From the joint distribution and the Morison equation, the theoretical distributions of drag forces, inertia forces and total random forces caused by waves propagating over a steady uniform current are determined. The distribution of inertia forces is Gaussian as that derived using the linear wave model, whereas the distributions of drag forces and total random forces deviate slightly from those derived utilizing the linear wave model. The distributions presented can be determined by the wave number spectrum of ocean waves, current speed and the second order wave–wave and wave–current interactions. As an illustrative example, for fully developed deep ocean waves, the parameters appeared in the distributions near still water level are calculated for various wind speeds and current speeds by using Donelan–Pierson–Banner spectrum and the effects of the current and the nonlinearity of ocean waves on the distribution are studied.     

内孤立波过陆架陆坡地形的数值模拟研究

内波是海洋中普遍存在的波动形式。内孤立波是典型的非线性内波,多发于陆架边缘海,如南海等海域,对陆架海域有重要影响。本文针对内孤立波在陆架地形上的传播问题,先基于弱非线性与全非线性数值模型,模拟了不同振幅、地形高度条件下内孤立波的演化的过程,探讨了动力系数对内孤立波演化过程的影响,对比了两模型的模拟结果在内孤立波演化过程、能量分配以及能量耗散的差异,后分析了南海的动力系数分布特征。结果表明,在内孤立波不发生破碎的情况下,弱非线性模型与全非线性模拟结果相近。当发生破碎过程时,弱非线性模型可准确模拟头波,但无法通过强非线性的破碎过程耗散能量,只能以裂变的方式辐射能量。在弱非线性模型中,随地形高度增加,频散系数减小到零,平方非线性系数由负转正,立方非线性系数绝对值增大一个量级,并主导陆架地形上内孤立波的演化过程。通过对比南海夏季与冬季非线性内波动力系数空间分布,发现内孤立波在传播过程由于夏季平方非线性效应、立方非线性效应与频散效应较强的影响,其在夏季更易发生陡化与裂变,波列发生频率高。     

A Modified Form of Mild-Slope Equation with Weakly Nonlinear Effect

Nonlinear effect is of importance to waves propagating from deep water to shallow water.Thenon-linearity of waves is widely discussed due to its high precision in application.But there are still someproblems in dealing with the nonlinear waves in practice.In this paper,a modified form of mild-slope equa-tion with weakly nonlinear effect is derived by use of the nonlinear dispersion relation and the steady mild-slope equation containing energy dissipation.The modified form of mild-slope equation is convenient to solvenonlinear effect of waves.The model is tested against the laboratory measurement for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach given by Berkhoff et al,The present numerical results are also comparedwith those obtained through linear wave theory.Better agreement is obtained as the modified mild-slope e-quation is employed.And the modified mild-slope equation can reasonably simulate the weakly nonlinear ef-fect of wave propagation from deep water to coast.     

完全非线性深水波的数值模拟

基于势流理论,并结合深水波质点运动从水面向下呈e指数衰减的特性,建立了完全非线性数值变深水槽模型,通过实时模拟活塞式造波机运动来产生波浪.采用时域高阶边界元法进行模拟,利用混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法和四阶Runge-Kutta方法追踪流体瞬时水面,应用镜像格林函数消除了水槽两个侧面的积分,在水槽末端布置人工阻尼层来消除反射...     

高阶非线性完全频散性波浪数值模型及应用

为更精确地模拟强非线性完全频散性波浪的传播,采用长波上非线性重力表面波传播高阶数学模型,综合参考此模式已有的研究成果,建立了一个高达五阶的完全频散性非线性数值模型。应用该五阶模式对斜坡地形、潜堤地形及正弦沙链地形进行模拟计算,并与已有的实验资料进行对比,结果显示五阶模式较低阶模式模拟结果的精度上有了明显提高,模拟波形与实验结果吻合度良好,证明高阶模式更适用于高频散高非线性波浪传播的数值模拟。     

Dynamics of a Wave Packet on the Surface of an Inhomogeneously Vortical Fluid (Lagrangian Description)

A nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NSE) describing packets of weakly nonlinear waves in an inhomogeneously vortical infinitely deep fluid has been derived. The vorticity is assumed to be an arbitrary function of Lagrangian coordinates and quadratic in the small parameter proportional to the wave steepness. It is shown that the modulational instability criteria for the weakly vortical waves and potential Stokes waves on deep water coincide. The effect of vorticity manifests itself in a shift of the wavenumber of high-frequency filling. A special case of Gerstner waves with a zero coefficient at the nonlinear term in the NSE is noted.     

An integral description of the propagation of steady-state perturbations of the heavy liquid surface

The system of equations of motion describing the gravity wave propagation in a perfect heavy liquid layer is transformed into a new integral equation for the free surface elevations. In the limit cases, this integral equation describes the linear and nonlinear periodic waves as well as the known types of solitary waves. In this case a dispersion equation arises because perturbations of the second and higher orders of smallness are neglected. The integral equation allows for the propagation of invariable surface perturbations of arbitrary forms if their spatial spectrum is concentrated near small wave numbers (compared to the inverse wave amplitude). Several examples of solutions are presented.     

完全非线性孤立波的直墙反射

报道了应用边界积分方法模拟完全非线性孤立波的传播与直墙反射,给出了波形演变过程。结果表明,本模型对计算孤立波的传播与直墙反射是有效的。三阶Boussinesq方程的孤立波解比低阶方程的孤立波解更接近完全非线性的数值解.当来波波高增大时,孤立波直墙反射的相位滞后变小。若考虑大波高孤立波的直墙反射或波——波相互作用,一阶理论预报的相位滞后往往低估实际情况。     

Simulation of Random Waves and Associated Laminar Bottom Shear Stresses

This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the fully nonlinear free surface boundaiy conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows and laminar bottom shear stresses induced by random waves axe determined. The deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented by use of the fast Fourier transform algorithm was adopted to generate the incident random waves. The accuracy of the numerical scheme is confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the nanlerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by random waves, computed by this wave model, is compared with that obtained by Myrhaug＇ s model （1995）. The transfer function method is also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and is proved accurate.