Variations in turbulent energy dissipation and water column stratification at the entrance of a tidally energetic strait

We observed tidal currents, turbulent energy dissipation and water column stratification at the entrance of a narrow strait (Neko Seto) in the Seto Inland Sea, Japan, using a free-falling turbulent microstructure profiler (TurboMAP) and acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP). The variation in turbulent energy dissipation at the entrance of the strait was not at quarter-diurnal frequency but at semi-diurnal frequency; turbulent energy dissipation was enhanced during the ebb tide, although it was moderate during the flood tide. This result is consistent with the results of Takasugi (1993), which showed the asymmetry of tidal energy loss during a semidiurnal tidal cycle using control volume analysis. It is suggested that significant turbulent energy dissipation is generated in the strait, which influences the properties of water outside the strait when tidal currents flow out from the strait.     

磨刀门河口枯季波生流场数值模拟研究

本文建立曲线坐标系下的双曲型缓坡方程波浪模型和考虑波浪辐射应力影响的深度平均2D潮流数学模型,首次研究了磨刀门河口2011年地形条件下的枯季波生流场。受波浪作用影响,落潮阶段,波浪作用方向与流向相反,在波浪顶托效应下拦门沙沙脊及外坡处流速普遍减小,形成两个主要回流区,口门外东西两侧浅滩处流速也减小,东西两汊及横洲深槽流速增大;涨潮阶段,波浪作用方向与流向相同,拦门沙沙脊及外坡处流速增大,沙脊处出现冲越流,口门两侧浅滩处流速增大,横洲深槽流速减小。     

喀拉海峡潮-地相互作用激发非线性内波的数值模拟

Nonlinear internal waves(NIWs) are ubiquitous around the Kara Sea, a part of the Arctic Ocean that is north of Siberia. Three hot spot sources for internal waves, one of which is the Kara Strait, have been identified based on Envisat ASAR. The generation and evolution of the NIWs through the interactions of the tide and topography across the strait is studied based on a nonhydrostatic numerical model. The model captures most wave characteristics shown by satellite data. A typical inter-packets distance on the Barents Sea side is about 25 km in summer, with a phase speed about 0.65 m/s. A northward background current may intensify the accumulation of energy during generation, but it has little influence on the other properties of the generated waves. The single internal solitary wave(ISW) structure is a special phenomenon that follows major wave trains, with a distance about 5–8 km. This wave is generated with the leading wave packets during the same tidal period. When a steady current toward the Kara Sea is included, the basic generation process is similar, but the waves toward the Kara Sea weaken and display an internal bore-like structure with smaller amplitude than in the control experiment. In winter, due to the growth of sea ice, stratification across the Kara Strait is mainly determined by the salinity, with an almost uniform temperature close to freezing. A pycnocline deepens near the middle of the water depth(Barents Sea side), and the NIWs process is not as important as the NIWs process in summer. There is no fission process during the simulation.     

Internal tide in the Kara Gates Strait

We observed strong internal tidal waves in the Kara Gates Strait. Internal tides are superimposed over a system of mean currents from the Barents to the Kara Sea. Field studies of internal tides in the Kara Gates were performed in 1997, 2007, and 2015. In 2015, we analyzed data from towed CTD measurements, numerical model calculations, and satellite images in the region. An internal tidal wave with a period of 12.4 h is generated due to the interaction between the currents of the barotropic tide and the bottom relief on the slopes of a ridge that crosses the strait from Novaya Zemlya to the continent. The depths of the ridge crest are 30–40 m. A constant current of relatively warm water flows from the Barents to the Kara Sea. An internal wave propagates in both directions from the ridge. In the Barents Sea, internal waves are intensified by the current from the Barents to the Kara Sea. Internal bores followed by a packet of short-period internal waves are found in both directions from the strait. Satellite images show that short-period internal waves are generated after the internal bore. A hydraulic jump was found on the eastern side of the strait. Numerical modeling agrees with the experimental results.     

A numerical study of the generation and propagation of internal solitary waves in the Luzon Strait

A new composite model, which consists of a generation model of the internal tides and a regularized long wave propagation model, is presented to study the generation and evolution of internal solitary waves in the sill strait. Internal bores in the sill strait are first simulated by the generation model, and then the internal tidal field outside of the sill region is given as input for the propagation model. Numerical experiments are carried out to study the imposing tide, depth profile, channel width and shoaling effect, etc., on the generation and evolution of internal solitary waves. It is shown that only when the amplitude of internal tide at the forcing boundary of the propagation model is large enough that a train of internal solitary waves would be induced. The amplitude of the imposing tide in the generation model, shoaling effect, asymmetry of the depth profile and channel width have some effects on the amplitude of the induced internal solitary wave. The imposing tidal flow superimposed on a constant mean background flow has a great damping effect on the induced internal waves, especially on those propagate against the background flow direction. The generation and propagation of internal solitary waves in three possible straits among the Luzon Strait are simulated, and the reasons for the asymmetry of their propagation are also explained.     

Ephemeral sand waves in the hurricane surf zone

Airborne bathymetric LIDAR observations along the Florida panhandle after Hurricane Dennis (2005) show the first unequivocal observations of surf-zone sand wave trains.

These are found in depths of 5m along the trough of the hurricane bar, where hindcasts show strong longshore currents only during severe storms. The waves extend over tens of kilometers of coast after Dennis but are absent from the same area in four other datasets. Observed wavelength to water depth ratios are comparable to river dunes and tidal sand waves but height to depth ratios are smaller, with the largest wave heights around 0.1 times the water depth. The sand wave generation mechanism is hypothesized to be from wind-and-wave-induced longshore currents, which were hindcast to be large during Dennis, with destruction from water wave orbital velocities.     

A 2D-numerical modeling of the generation and propagation of internal solitary waves in the Luzon Strait

The wide presence of internal solitary waves (ISWs) in the northern South China Sea (SCS) has been confirmed by both Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) images and in situ observations. These ISWs are believed being generated over the varying topography in the Luzon Strait. They typically propagate westwards into the SCS with a diurnal or semidiurnal period. Their generation sites are, however, not yet solidly identified. To obtain a clear picture of the ISWs, we designed numerical experiments to analyze the generation and propagation of the ISWs in the Luzon Strait using a 2-dimensional non-hydrostatic model. The model current is forced by barotropic or baroclinic currents imposed at open boundaries. The experiments show that the tidal current serves as a kind of triggering force for the ISWs over the submarine ridges in the strait. Under the forcing of tidal currents, depressions are formed near the ridges. The ISWs then split from the depressions through a process different from lee-wave generation mechanism. The appearance of the ISWs is influenced by the strength and period of the forcing current:the ISWs are more likely to be generated by a stronger tidal current. That is why the ISWs in the Luzon Strait are frequently observed during spring tide. Compared with diurnal tidal current, the ISWs generated by semidiurnal tidal current with the same amplitude is much more energetic. It is partly because that the wave beams in diurnal frequency have a larger angle with the vertical direction, thus are more likely to be reflected by the topography slope. The impact of the Kuroshio to the ISWs is also analyzed by adding a vertical uniform or shear current at boundaries. A vertically uniform current may generate ISWs directly. On the other hand, a vertically shear current, which is more realistic to represent the Kuroshio branch, seems to have little influence on the generation process and radiating direction of the ISWs in the Luzon Strait.     

Waves and Currents in Tide-Dominated Location Off Dahej,Gulf of Khambhat,India

Based on measurements of waves, currents, and tides off Dahej in the Gulf of Khambhat, hydrodynamics are studied. Estimated tidal constituents show that primary lunar semi-diurnal constituent M2 was the strongest constituent, and the amplitude was found to be around 4.5 times stronger than that of the major diurnal constituent K1. Currents were predominantly tide induced with speeds up to 3.3 m/s and were north-northwest during flood tide and south-southeast during ebb tide. Residual cross-shore and along-shore current was found to be varying with the corresponding change in the cross-shore and along-shore wind speed. Influence of tidal current was observed in most of the wave statistical parameters.     

The propagation of high frequency internal waves in the Celtic Sea

The continental slope to the south of the Celtic Sea is an area of extremely rough topography and tidal currents of the order of 50cm/s (with components both along and across the slope). This is a region of intense and complicated internal wave and internal tide activity. Historical current meter data from moorings close to the shelf-break show bursts of high frequency, large amplitude internal waves occurring, on average, at either once or twice per M2 tidal cycle. Wave packets at 9 moorings along the shelf-break and further on-shelf are identified using conditional sampling. The paths travelled by these wave packets are calculated using their fluctuation orientation, linear wave theory and the low frequency current. The records are up to 60 days long, allowing the ensemble statistics of propagation direction and wave characteristics to be calculated for a large number of wave packets. This analysis shows that only a fraction of the observed wave packets have orientations consistent with generation by the across-slope barotropic tide. This mechanism accounts for 20% of the wave packets in the north-west Celtic Sea and 29% in the southeast Celtic sea. A similar fraction of the wave packets (23% in the north west and 27% in the south east) have orientations clearly consistent with generation by an along-slope flow over the rough topography on the slope. The remaining wave packets are attributed to generation by tidal flow over topography close to the moorings and possibly internal wave resonance within canyons.     

桐花树红树林潮滩近底层悬沙浓度垂向剖面变化特征分析*

观测红树林潮滩在波浪和潮流作用下的近底层垂向剖面悬沙浓度变化过程, 对理解海岸带植被的消能促淤机制和滨海湿地生态修复工程有着重要作用。本文以北部湾七星岛岛尾桐花树红树林潮滩为例, 基于剖面流速仪HR、声学多普勒单点流速仪ADV、浪潮仪T-wave及剖面浊度仪ASM, 获取了研究区域2019年夏季大潮连续3天的水文数据, 同时结合桐花树典型植株实测参数, 分析了潮周期内红树林潮滩近底层垂向剖面悬沙响应波浪、潮流作用及桐花树空间结构的运动过程。结果表明: 1) 桐花树潮滩近底层悬沙浓度和悬沙通量具有涨潮明显大于落潮的潮汐不对称现象, 剖面垂向高悬沙浓度区域在涨潮初期—涨急由距底部0.1~0.37m转变为距底部0.5~0.67m, 落急—落潮末期则由上部转变为下部; 2) 潮周期内悬沙起动和再悬浮阶段发生在以波浪作用主导的涨潮初期和落潮末期, 平流和沉降发生在以潮流作用为主的涨急至落急整个阶段; 3) 涨潮阶段桐花树冠层的茂密枝叶通过减缓流速拦截多于冠层上部40%以上的悬沙, 落潮水体则挟沙自陆向海经过桐花树群落, 使得悬沙浓度下降超过71%。该不对称涨、落潮动力沉积机制有利于悬沙向岸输运, 促进潮滩扩张过程。     

南海北部内孤立波数学模型

在二层内潮数学模型的基础上,考虑非静力平衡扰动压力的影响,导出潮频内孤立波产生、传播的数学模型。该模型不受小地形假设的限制,并适用于南海。应用该模型能解释说明产生以下现象的物理机制：潮流流过巴坦-萨布坦海脊时,在一定海洋环境条件下,通过潮流与起伏的底地形相互作用可激发产生潮频内孤立波,并西传至东沙群岛附近的海域。     

Observation of internal tidal currents in the Kaoping Canyon off southwestern Taiwan

Internal tidal currents and associated water-mass displacements were investigated during multiple cruises in the Kaoping Submarine Canyon off southwestern Taiwan. Observations from both moored and shipboard Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers and hydrographic casts were conducted along the canyon. The velocity data showed that in the lower layer the major axis of the tidal currents aligned with the orientation of the canyon, and currents moved up-canyon during flood and down-canyon during ebb. The vertical-phase shift and amplitude of the currents indicated that the semidiurnal internal tide dominated with intensity increasing with depth toward the canyon head. Tidal energy was channeled from the shelf landward with a beamlike internal wave, guided by bottom topography. The estimated phase velocity was 1.4–1.7 m s⁻¹, based on normal mode analysis and the phase lag between sampling stations. Empirical orthogonal function analysis of hydrographic profiles confirmed that the first mode (M₂ internal tide) explained 70% of the total variance. The strong convergence of internal tidal currents near the canyon head during flood may play an important role in the daily migration of cherry shrimps, which burrow along the canyon wall.     

南海北部沙波区海底强流的内波特征及其对沙波运动的影响

2008年3月6日至2008年4月9日, 在南海北部外陆架与陆坡上的沙波区进行了海底流速的连续观测，观测结果表明潮流与海流较弱，但时有流速达30—77cm.s-1的海底强流发生。强流方向与南海北部内波传播方向相对应，多分布在偏NW向与偏SE向。偏SE向流强于偏NW向流，与内波在传播方向上的下坡流大于上坡流的特征一致。对流速序列进行了旋转功率谱分析，结果表明，高于M2分潮的频率中，众多的振荡分量具有内波流性质，说明阵发性强流为内波所致。采用观测流速计算了沙波的移动速度，计算结果得出强流能起动海底泥沙，由于NW向传播（上坡方向）的内波导致了SE向（下坡方向）的净流动，沙波偏SE向移动，但沙波移动速度不大，小型沙波移动速度小于1.6m.a-1。采用潮流、风暴潮耦合模型计算了强台风驱动的海底流速过程，表明潮流、风暴潮耦合也能移动海底沙波，但沙波移动方向与台风路径相关，不一定为SE向，且移动距离更小，潮流、风暴潮耦合不是沙波移动的主要动力机制。     

基于调制不稳定性的吕宋海峡内孤立波生成机理探讨

The South China Sea (SCS) is a hot spot for oceanic internal solitary waves due to many factors, such as the complexity of the terrain environment. The internal solitary waves in the northern SCS mainl...     

舟山本岛南部附近海域潮汐潮流特征分析

文章基于沈家门长期潮位站、长峙岛临时潮位站的观测资料和对舟山本岛南部海域多个站位实测的潮流基础数据,采用调和分析法对潮汐潮流进行特征分析。舟山本岛南部附近海域潮汐类型属于规则半日潮,潮差变化和日不等现象明显,有一定的潮汐浅海作用。潮流类型属于以往复流为主的规则半日浅海潮流,实测潮流中涨落潮流速不等、历时不等现象显著,最大流速、平均流速均是大潮大于小潮,涨潮流历时长于落潮流历时,潮流变化主要受协振波所控制,流向在涨落潮方向波动。     

山东庙岛海峡的峡道动力地貌

在庙岛海峡的动力、沉积、地貌条件比较系统的分析基础上,对庙岛海峡的峡道效应和动力地貌进行了研究,主要包括峡道形成及演变、潮流聚散与侵蚀堆积、涨落潮流歧路与登州浅滩形成、峡道泥沙搬运与沉积效应,结果表明,庙岛海峡具有显著的峡道效应,且峡道东西两段差异明显,对峡道以东的山东半岛北部沿岸海底泥沙运动和沉积具有重要影响。     

Observations of some sedimentary processes acting on a tidal flat

In order to examine sedimentary processes acting on tidal flats, eighteen foot valves were “plumbed” into a small tidal cove in southern New Hampshire. Transport of suspended sediment was determined by comparing concentrations (determined by filtering) at 15 and 30 cm above the tidal flats throughout a tidal cycle. In general, sediment resuspension occurs more readily on the flood tide than the ebb. The concentration of suspended sediment follows the water mass distribution and is affected to a lesser degree by tidal currents and small amplitude waves. Deposition occurs during slack water shortly after high tide primarily in the bottom regime (15 cm); it is probably related to coarser particle sedimentation. The water mass distribution was not a simple rise and fall perpendicular to the bottom contours, but rather followed a slow clockwise gyre. The net effect on the suspended sediments was to impart a “longshore” component of drift to the suspended load during the tidal cycle.     

Internal Wave Generation by Tidal Flow over a Continental Shelf Slope

The generation process of internal waves by strong tidal flow over a continental shelf slope is reproduced using a multi-level numerical model. On the basis of the numerical results, the crucial role of the tidal advection effect in the generation process of internal waves is demonstrated. The close relation between the resulting internal waveform and the strength of the tidal advection effect is also examined. The barotropic forcing on the internal wave actually works within a relatively small horizontal scale over the top of the continental shelf slope. When the maximum internal Froude number at the shelf break (Fr_m) is less than about 0.6, the amplitude of the resulting internal wave is almost proportional to F_rm. When F_rm is more than about 0.6, however, the amplitude of the resulting internal wave becomes larger than predicted by linear theory. In particular, when F_rm is more than unity, the time period during which the shoreward propagating internal wave stays in the barotropic forcing region becomes much longer. Consequently, the internal wave is significantly amplified with the horizontal scale approaching that of the barotropic forcing, which concentrates in a relatively small region over the top of the continental shelf slope. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Implementation and evaluation of alternative wave breaking formulas in a coastal spectral wave model

This paper describes methods and results of research for incorporating four different parameterized wave breaking and dissipation formulas in a coastal wave prediction model. Two formulations assume the breaking energy dissipation to be limited by the Rayleigh distribution, whereas the other two represent the breaking wave energy by a bore model. These four formulations have been implemented in WABED, a directional spectral wave model based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction, reflection, and wave–current interaction capabilities. Four parameterized wave breaking formulations are evaluated in the present study using two high-quality laboratory data sets. The first data set is from a wave transformation experiment at an idealized inlet entrance, representing four incident irregular waves in a slack tide and two steady-state ebb current conditions. The second data set is from a laboratory study of wave propagation over a complex bathymetry with strong wave-induced currents. Numerical simulation results show that with a proper breaking formulation the wave model can reproduce laboratory data for waves propagating over idealized or complicated bathymetries with ambient currents. The extended Goda wave breaking formulation with a truncated Rayleigh distribution, and the Battjes and Janssen formulation with a bore model produced the best agreement between model and data.     

河口涨潮槽的演变及治理

根据长江口１９５８－１９８７年的地形、水文测量资料和研究成果，对河口涨潮槽的形态特征、水文泥沙特性、形成原因与演变规律作较系统的分析研究。结果表明，涨潮槽呈上口窄下口宽的喇叭形，延伸方向受口外潮波传播方向制约，潮波更多地呈现驻波性质；涨潮流起主导作用，余流方向指向上游，涨潮期含沙量大于落潮期；涨潮槽的水文泥沙特性有明显的大小潮，洪枯季和年际变化，其分布可从口外海滨－直延伸到潮流界；按成因涨潮槽可分