Experimental analysis of infragravity waves in two eroded microtidal beaches

This work aims to contribute to the characterization and understanding of infragravity waves on two beaches with erosion problems. For this reason, we have used an array of ADCP and a pressure sensor to measure wave parameters and pressure inside and outside of the surf zone during the dry and rainy period in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar (both dissipative and eroded beaches) located in the Colombian Caribbean coast. Based on these measurements, we have carried out a spectral analysis in order to identify the frequency components that characterize the wave and its energy; thus, we identified the characteristic frequencies of infragravity waves to finally filter the infragravity signal on each beach in different seasonal periods. Among the results of the Welch spectrum applied to surface elevation time series, we found that, the frequencies'' energy of the sea-swell band decreases due to bottom friction and wave breaking as the wave approaches the shore, while the frequencies'' energy of the infragravity band increases significantly. In addition, for the wavelet analysis, we could observe how the energy of the infragravity band, especially the lowest frequencies gain energy as the waves approaches the coast. Furthermore, based on the infragravity wave obtained from the extreme wave event registered during the field campaign we can conclude that the contribution of this signal is important in the erosion problems presented in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar. Finally, these results show the need to realize other studies that allow us to understand deeply, the role of infragravity waves on the morphological changes that occurs in these beaches.     

大洋细结构的一种可能的机制Ⅲ.对混合过程动能耗散的估计

继第部分之后研究了惯性内波和近惯性内波由f～的作用所致的剪切不稳定引起的破碎机制。物理上,该机制很象存在由风应力所致薄表面涡旋漂流层时表面波的破碎与饱和过程。惯性内波和近惯性内波的破碎产物与小尺度湍流一起形成了混合块,它与Gregg等人(1986)的持久混合观测结果一致。依据Thorpe(1973)实验的结果作者提出了一个估计湍流动能耗散率和消衰时间的方法。结果表明,在剪切不稳定中近惯性内波在湍动耗散中起了关键作用,而惯性内波引起非常弱的湍动耗散。使用内波能量谱的标准总能量密度估计出的近惯性内波的耗散率和消衰时间与PATCHEX测量结果非常一致。文中还讨论了几个与此破碎机制有关的问题。     

粤东后江湾冲流带滩面高频振动及动力作用分析

利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,以比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系.分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用.     

A study of SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves in the north of the South China Sea:I.Simulation of internal tide transformation

For settlement of the well-known problem of contemporary radar imaging models,i.e.,the pmblem of a general underestimation of radar signatures of hydrodynamic features over oceanic internal waves and underwater bottom topography in tidal watels at at high radar frequency bands(X-band and C-band),the impact of the ocean surface mixed layer turbulence and the significance of strat-ified oceanic model on SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves are proposed.In the north of the South China Sea by utilizing seme observed data of background field the nonlinearity coefficient,the dispersion coefficient,the horizontal variability coefficient and the phase speed in the generalized K-dV equation are determined approximately.Through simulations of internal tide transfor-mation the temporal evolution and spatial distribution of the vertical displacement and horizontal velocity of intereal wave field are obtained.The simulation results indicate that the maximum amplitudes of internal solitary waves occur at depth 35 m,but the maximum current speeds take place at depth 20 m in this area of the sea(about 20°30'N,114°E)in August.It was noticed that considering the effects of flood current and ebb current respectively is appropriate to investigate influence of the background shear flow on coefficients of the K-dV equation.The obtained results provide the possibility for the simulation of SAR signatures of inter-nal solitary waves under considering the impact of ocean surface mixed layer turbulence in the companion paper.     

变浅作用下的长周期重力波的实验研究

利用大型水槽设计了在由深水到近岸不同坡度处海浪在变浅作用下诱导产生的长周期重力波的实验。正态随机海浪在深水生成并沿斜坡向浅水传播,记录了不同水深处波面高度随时间的变化过程并进行统计分析和谱分析。实验数据分析结果表明,长周期重力波的能量随着水深的变浅而增高,其谱锋频率位于0.2~0.3fp附近,这里fp是深水正态海浪过程的谱峰频率。长周期重力波的能量与入射波的能量比与波面高度分布的偏度密切相关。进一步分析了两种波动的能量谱峰值比和波面高度分布偏度的相关关系,获得了经验关系,为预测近岸浅水长周期重力波提供了科学依据。     

长重力波形成机制研究进展

简要介绍了长重力波的概念和它在近岸过程的重要性,概述和评析了长重力波形成的Munk与Tucker模式,BLW,Unoki和非线性作用模式,BFLW模式以及BLW和BFLW联合作用等6种模式,展望了长重力波综合研究的内容和必要性.     

Estimation of infragravity waves at intermediate water depth

The accuracy of nearshore infragravity wave height model predictions has been investigated using a combination of the spectral short wave evolution model SWAN and a linear 1D SurfBeat model (IDSB). Data recorded by a wave rider located approximately 3.5 km from the coast at 18 m water depth have been used to construct the short wave frequency-directional spectra that are subsequently translated to approximately 8 m water depth with the third generation short wave model SWAN. Next the SWAN-computed frequency-directional spectra are used as input for IDSB to compute the infragravity response in the 0.01 Hz–0.05 Hz frequency range, generated by the transformation of the grouped short waves through the surf zone including bound long waves, leaky waves and edge waves at this depth. Comparison of the computed and measured infragravity waves in 8 m water depth shows an average skill of approximately 80%. Using data from a directional buoy located approximately 70 km offshore as input for the SWAN model results in an average infragravity prediction skill of 47%. This difference in skill is in a large part related to the under prediction of the short wave directional spreading by SWAN. Accounting for the spreading mismatch increases the skill to 70%. Directional analyses of the infragravity waves shows that outgoing infragravity wave heights at 8 m depth are generally over predicted during storm conditions suggesting that dissipation mechanisms in addition to bottom friction such as non-linear energy transfer and long wave breaking may be important. Provided that the infragravity wave reflection at the beach is close to unity and tidal water level modulations are modest, a relatively small computational effort allows for the generation of long-term infragravity data sets at intermediate water depths. These data can subsequently be analyzed to establish infragravity wave height design criteria for engineering facilities exposed to the open ocean, such as nearshore tanker offloading terminals at coastal locations.     

Is the small-scale turbulence an exclusive breaking product of oceanic internal waves

On the basis of the theoretical research results by the author and the literature published up to date, the analysis and the justification presented in this paper show that the breaking products of oceanic internal waves are not only turbulence, but also the fine-scale near-inertial internal waves (the oceanic reversible finestructure) for inertial waves and the internal solitary waves for internal tides respectively. It was found that the oceanic reversible finestructure may be induced by the effect of the horizontal component f (f = 2Ωcosφ) of the rotation vector on inertial waves. And a new instability of the theoretical shear and strain spectra due to the effect of f occurs at critical vertical wavenumber β c ≈ 0.1 cpm. It happens when the levels of shear and strain of the reversible finestructure are higher than those of inertial waves, which is induced by the effect of f along an "iso-potential-pycnal" of internal wave. If all breaking products of internal waves are taken into account, the average kinetic energy dissipation rate is an order of magnitude larger than the values of turbulence observed by microstructure measurements. The author’s theoretical research results are basically in agreement with those observed in IWEX, DRIFTER and PATCHEX experiments. An important impersonal fact is that on the mean temporal scale of thermohaline circulation these breaking products of internal waves exist simultaneously with turbulence. Because inertial waves are generated by winds at the surface, and internal tides are generated by strong tide-topography interactions, the analysis and justification in this paper support in principle the abyssal recipes Ⅱ:energetics of tidal and wind mixing by Munk & Wunsch in 1998, in despite of the results of microstructure measurements for the turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate and the diapycnal turbulent eddy diffusivity.     

长重力波运动与近岸过程研究综述

简要介绍了长重力波的概念和作用,概述了近岸长重力波的运动形式、类型、分布和波能变化,分析了近岸长重力波与泥沙运动、海岸侵蚀、近岸环流系统、海滩碎波带地貌形态和潮汐等的关系,提出了进一步研究的几点建议。     

海岸沙坝近底悬移质通量实验研究

为了研究海岸沙坝的产生和演化机理,对不规则波和波群作用下沙坝上方的近底悬移质通量进行了实验研究。分析了短波、长波和平均水流对悬移质通量的影响。结果表明:各种波况下平均水流和长波的作用始终使泥沙向离岸方向输移,而短波的作用使泥沙向岸方向运动;平均水流引起的泥沙输移始终占主要成分,长波的次之。不规则波情况下平均水流的影响较规则波的情况相对较弱,三种成分对泥沙输运的贡献属于同一量级。波群情况下长波的影响随着波浪群性的增强而加大,短波的不明显,而平均水流的影响则随着波浪群性的增强而减弱。     

粤东后江湾冲流带滩面高频振动及动力作用分析

利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,对比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系。分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用。     

Temporal Variability of High Vertical Wavenumber Shear over the Izu-Ogasawara Ridge

Recent numerical studies (Hibiya et al., 1996, 1998, 2002) showed that the energy cascade across the internal wave spectrum down to small dissipation scales was under strong control of parametric subharmonic instabilities (PSI) which transfer energy from low vertical mode double-inertial frequency internal waves to high vertical mode near-inertial internal waves. To see whether or not the numerically-predicted energy cascade process is actually dominant in the real deep ocean, we examine the temporal variability of vertical profiles of horizontal velocity observed by deploying a number of expendable current profilers (XCPs) at one location near the Izu-Ogasawara Ridge. By calculating EOFs, we find the observed velocity profiles are dominated by low mode semidiurnal (∼double-inertial frequency) internal tides and high mode near-inertial internal waves. Furthermore, we find that the WKB-stretched vertical scales of the near-inertial current shear are about 250 sm and 100 sm. The observed features are reasonably explained if the energy cascade down to small dissipation scales is dominated by PSI.     

Experimental study of the instabilities of alongshore currents on plane beaches

A laboratory experiment on alongshore currents was conducted for two plane beaches, with gradients 1:40 and 1:100, to investigate the instability of alongshore currents. Complicated and strongly unstable alongshore current motions were observed. In order to clearly examine the spatial and temporal variations of the shear instability of the currents, digital images from a charge-coupled device (CCD) recorded the deformations of dye batches released in the surf zone. Some essential characteristics of the shear instability were obtained from analyses of images showing the temporal variation of the dye patches.A high-resolution spectral analysis technique (the maximum entropy method, or MEM) was used to analyze the dominant frequency of the observed oscillation, along with the trigonometric regression method for determining the variations of the oscillation strength in the cross-shore direction. The propagation speed of the dye patch was obtained by tracking the movement over time of fixed locations in the dye patch, such as its peak, in the longshore direction. This data was then fitted linearly.Alongshore and cross-shore velocity time series acquired from sensors showed clearly that large-amplitude, long-period (about 50 s or 100 s) oscillations were present for all sensors deployed in the cross-shore direction under regular and irregular wave conditions. The analysis found that the maximum shear wave amplitude was approximately one-sixth of the maximum for the mean alongshore current, and occurred approximately at the position of the maximum of the mean alongshore current for irregular waves. The spatial structure of the shear waves was studied by analyzing collected images of the dye patches. The phase velocity of the meandering movements was obtained by measuring the magnitude of the oscillations of the dye patches in the alongshore direction with respect to time. The results suggest that the propagation speed of the shear instability was approximately one-half to three-quarters of the maximum mean longshore current for both regular and irregular waves.Linear instability analysis theory was applied to the characteristics of alongshore current instability, which suggested that there are two instability modes related to the observed oscillations: the frontshear mode observed for the 1:100 slope, and the backshear mode observed for the 1:40 slope. Theoretical analyses agreed with the experimental results in both cases. The velocity profile of the mean longshore current was found to affect the instability mode significantly, leading to further investigations on the influence of the velocity profiles and to provide support for the above conclusions.     

防浪建筑物影响下珊瑚礁海岸波浪传播变形试验

通过测试一系列不规则波工况研究了防浪建筑物存在下珊瑚礁海岸附近短波、低频长波和增水的变化规律，并对比了防浪建筑物的不同位置情况。分析结果表明：波浪在沿礁传播过程中，短波波高沿礁坪持续衰减，低频长波波高沿礁坪逐渐增大，波浪增水则沿礁坪基本保持不变；海岸附近短波随着防浪建筑物与礁缘距离的变大而减小，低频长波则在防浪建筑物处于礁坪后部时达到最大，防浪建筑物位置的变化对于礁坪波浪增水的影响可以忽略。通过理论分析证明了珊瑚礁地形上低频长波是由于群波破碎造成的破碎点移动而产生的；当特定波况作用于特定位置的防浪建筑物时，低频长波在礁坪上会发生一阶共振效应导致其能量在海岸附近达到最大值。     

Long baroclinic Rossby waves with periods of about 500d near 20°N in the northwest Pacific Ocean

On the basis of maps of sea level anomalies data set from October 1992 to January 2004, pronounced low frequency variations with periods of about 500 d are detected in the area near 20°N from 160°W to 130°E. A linear two-layer model is employed to explain the mechanism. It is found that the first-mode long baroclinic Rossby waves at 20°N in the northwest Pacific propagate westward in the form of free waves at a speed of about 10.3 cm/s. This confirms that the observed low frequency variabilities appear as baroclinic Rossby waves. It further shows that these low frequency variabilities around 20°N in the northwest Pacific can potentially be predicted with a lead up to 900 d.     

南海北部陆架区内波的演变与耗散机制

海洋是多尺度强迫-耗散系统,机械能主要在大尺度输入,在小尺度耗散。在大、中尺度运动的能量向小尺度湍流传递过程中,内波扮演着重要角色。内波的生成和破碎可打破海洋动力平衡,而在陆架区,内波（主要是内孤立波）的浅化演变与耗散则是驱动湍流混合的关键过程。通过长期的理论、观测与数值模拟研究,目前已认识到内波浅化过程中主要发生如下演变：波形调制、极性转变、裂变、破碎与耗散。相较于直接发生破碎,浅化演变过程中的裂变及其引发的剪切不稳定和对流不稳定是内孤立波在陆架区的主要耗散机制,显著调制陆架区的跃层混合。从能量串级的角度讲,内孤立波浅化裂变为动力不稳定的高频内波是潮能串级的重要通道。本文简要回顾南海北部陆架区内波的研究历史,并着重总结内波在陆架区演变与耗散机制的研究进展。     

A study of SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves in the north of the South China Sea: Ⅰ. Simulation of internal tide transformation

For settlement of the well-known problem of contemporary radar imaging models, i. e. , the problem of a general underestimation of radar signatures of hydrodynamic features over oceanic internal waves and underwater bottom topography in tidal waters at high radar frequency bands （ X-band and C-band）, the impact of the ocean surface mixed layer turbulence and the significance of strat- ified oceanic model on SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves are proposed. In the north of the South China Sea by utilizing some observed data of background field the nonlinearity coefficient, the dispersion coefficient, the horizontal variability coefficient and the phase speed in the generalized K-dV equation are determined approximately. Through simulations of internal tide transfor- mation the temporal evolution and spatial distribution of the vertical displacement and horizontal velocity of internal wave field are obtained. The simulation results indicate that the maximum amplitudes of internal solitary waves occur at depth 35 m, but the maximum current speeds take place at depth 20 m in this area of the sea （about 20°30＇N, 114°E） in August. It was noticed that considering the effects of flood current and ebb current respectively is appropriate to investigate influence of the background shear flow on coefficients of the K-dV equation. The obtained results provide the possibility for the simulation of SAR signatures of internal solitary waves under considering the impact of ocean surface mixed layer turbulence in the companion paper.     

一种基于声速剖面展开的内波监测新方法

声速剖面时空分布的获取是利用声学方法监测内波的核心问题。在反演算法中，声速剖面通常是采用展开的方式用若干个参数来表示的。这就导致了有时很难从反演结果中直接获得内波的相关信息。本文的目标是找到一种通过展开系数直接获取内波特性的方法。通过推导内波水动力方程，可以从较少的声速剖面样本中提取出水动力简正模态（Hydrodynamic Normal Modes，HNMs）作为声速剖面展开的正交基。较之广泛采用的正交经验函数（Empirical Orthogonal Functions, EOFs），HNMs直接与内波活动相关，具有更明确的物理含义。然后，基于HNMs对声速剖面的时间序列进行展开，获得展开系数。最后，从前两阶展开系数的时间导数中可以获取内波活动的信息。将方法应用于受内波影响而具有明显时空扰动的南海北陆架区温度链数据，结果表明：只用前两节模态就可以在较好的精度范围内重构声速剖面。前两阶系数的时间导数具有独特的双震荡结构可以用于探测内孤立波。从展开系数也可以获得幅度以及波长信息。理论推导和实验分析证明了本文方法在内波监测中的有效性。HNMs方法使用便利且对样本的依赖性较小，可以在内波活跃海域作为EOFs的有效补充用于声速剖面的展开。     

沿岸流不稳定运动传播特性的小波相干谱分析

沿岸流不稳定运动属于超低频运动,研究它的传播特性,有助于深入理解其对岸滩演变、污染物、鱼卵等输移、迁移的影响。本文基于小波相干谱对所选实验波况进行了研究,分析了规则波、随机波入射情况下沿岸流不稳定运动传播特性,并讨论了入射波高、周期、坡度等对其的影响。结果表明,不规则波更易诱导出沿岸流不稳定运动,且在不规则波情况下,不稳定运动在沿岸方向相距4 m的两个断面上产生的相位差都约为±30°,与波浪入射角相近;随着入射波高的增加,非线性随之增强,更易诱导出不稳定运动,生成的沿岸流不稳定运动周期范围将增大;入射波周期对沿岸流不稳定运动的传播特性影响较小;坡度越陡越易诱导出超低频的不稳定运动。