黄海海浪天气时间尺度变化的数值模拟研究

利用第三代海浪数值模式(SWAN)系统研究了黄海海浪有效波高的天气时间尺度变化的时空分布特征和相关动力学过程。结果表明黄海海浪有效波高的天气变化强度(S_W)具有显著的时间变化特征和空间分布特征。其多年平均值在黄海的中东部存在由南向北延伸的高值区,同时向两侧近海区域逐渐减小。S_W在冬季最大,夏季最小。从11月到翌年5月,S_W月气候态平均值的空间分布与其年平均值的空间分布类似;从6月到同年10月,S_W的月气候态平均值在黄海与东海的分界处存在较强的由黄海到东海的空间梯度。进一步分析表明黄海海域的S_W以风浪占主,涌浪的贡献远小于风浪贡献。数值实验表明,黄海海浪有效波高的天气时间尺度变化主要是由大于天气变化周期的海面风强迫通过四波非线性相互作用产生的。     

海浪预报知识讲座

第五讲海浪的地理分布与季节变化(I) 近海海浪的地理分布和季节变化 1渤海和黄海海浪的地理分布和季节变化 1.1风浪向和涌浪向 为了说明本海域风浪向和涌浪向的季节变化,根据文献[1]提供的统计资料,绘制了渤海和黄海盛行风浪向和盛行涌浪向频率分布表(表略).     

西沙、南沙海域波浪及波浪能季节变化特征

采用来自ECMWF将风浪、涌浪分离的近45 a ERA-40海浪再分析资料,对西沙和南沙海域的海面风速、风浪有效波高、涌浪有效波高、浪级频率、波向频率的多年变化特征进行统计研究,重点讨论了西沙和南沙海域风浪能和涌浪能季节变化和稳定性特点.结果表明:南海海域涌浪能明显比风浪能稳定,西沙海域年均能流密度约8.0kW/m,风...     

朝鲜半岛周边海域波候观测分析

本文收集整理了2013—2014年朝鲜半岛周边的海浪观测数据,统计分析了该海域的波候(海浪气候态)特征,结果表明:(1)朝鲜半岛周边海域的海表风速、有效波高的峰值都出现在12月—翌年2月,有效波高在8月的次峰值比风速明显。(2)风向频率随季风变化明显,波向与风向没有很好的对应关系,其中,朝鲜海峡的波向在各个季节都以偏西南向为主。(3)朝鲜半岛周边海域在各个季节整体以3级浪为主,4级浪次之。(4)大部分海域的阵风系数常年在1.4左右。     

台湾岛邻近海域台风浪的模拟研究

基于目前国际上较为先进的第三代近岸海浪数值模式SWAN（Simulation Waves Near-shore)。在充分考虑相关物理过程（风生浪，底摩擦，白帽耗散，深度诱导波破碎，非线性波－波相互作用）基础上，以较高的分辨率对影响台湾岛邻近海域的9015号台风浪过程进行了模拟研究。模式所需风场由藤田台风风场模型同化相应台风资料后提供；用自嵌套方式提供模式波谱边界条件。模拟结果与实际台风浪资料相符较好。台风过程模拟结果表明；台风中心位于台湾岛邻近海域的不同位置，台风浪有效波高的分布特征和传播方向都有着较大的差异。可以为整个台湾岛邻近海域台风浪分布特征的了解与认识提供较好的参考。     

耦合模式中海浪参数对台风浪预报的影响研究

以西北太平洋一次"双台风"共同影响下的台风浪为例,针对模式中风摄入和白帽耗散、底摩擦、波破碎、波-波非线性相互作用等海浪物理过程对台风浪预报的影响进行了敏感性试验分析。在此基础上,基于各物理过程最优参数化方案探讨了耦合模式和单独海浪模式的海浪预报性能,分析了耦合模式的海浪预报场分布特征。结果表明:不同海浪物理过程参数化对于波高预报的准确性是有所差异的。在相对最优的海浪各参数化方案组合下,无论耦合模式还是单独海浪模式都能较好地反映波高的变化和分布趋势。相比而言,耦合模式对于台风浪大值区的浪高预报要比单独海浪模式的更接近观测,且可以很好地刻画出双台风影响下浪的分布演变特征,对于西太平洋台风浪的预报具有很好的适用性。     

唐山近海海域波浪要素特征分析

本文基于唐山近海海域1#、2#浮标2017年4月至11 月实时海浪观测数据及部分风速风向数据, 对唐山近海海域波浪有效波高、有效波向、有效波周期等波参数特征进行了统计分析, 并利用origin 软件对波参数与风速、风向相关性进行了研究。研究结果表明： 1#、2# 浮标海域常浪向为SSW、SW、SSE, 常浪向有效波高均以0.2 ～ 0.4 m 小浪及3 ～ 4 s 短周期为主,有效波高1 m 以上较大波浪极少出现; 该海域波浪以风浪为主, 波浪破碎速度较快, 有效波高与风速相关性较强, 相关系数r 为0.71, 风向与波向、有效波高与周期基本无相关性, 该研究资料可为海上活动及防灾减灾提供技术依据。     

唐山南部近海海浪特征及风浪预报方法分析研究

利用唐山南部近海浮标站的观测资料,对该海域的海浪特征、风浪浪高预报方法及主要海区风浪成长时有效波高与风速、风区、风时之间的关系做了分析。结果表明:(1)唐山南部海域海浪类型以风浪为主,风速大于12.4 m/s的浅水波均为风浪,低于12.4 m/s风速的深水波存在30%比例的涌浪;(2)波高≥2 m的风浪多由具有较长风区的NE、ENE风产生,二者占总数的76.9%,且多出现在秋冬季,所占比例高达83.4%;(3)受风区长度限制,NE、ENE方向上风力大于5级时,该海区内的风浪不能达到充分成长状态;(4)整体而言,"苏联法"对唐山南部近海1.5—2.0 m的风浪波高计算表现出明显的优越性,"海大法"更适合2.0 m以上浪高的计算;(5)不同海区、不同波高范围的计算方法检验显示,对于有效波高≥2 m的风浪,"海大法"对NE、ENE、E方向上的计算效果最佳,SE、SSE方向上大浪出现的几率较低,对于其他方向的海区和波高范围,"苏联法"仍然表现出了理想的适用性。     

福建省海浪灾害危险性评估

选用美国国家环境预报中心的全球再分析风场为驱动风场,以WAVEWATCH Ⅲ海浪模式为基础,采用全球-西北太平洋-中国近海海区三层嵌套方案构建了1990—2020年海浪再分析数据集;利用该数据集,分析了福建省近海海浪灾害强度和发生频率,并计算了典型重现期的海浪波高。结果表明：福建省海域海浪有效波高分布具有明显的季节变化;因为地形的影响,台湾海峡中部区域的巨浪出现频率高于其他区域。     

石岛海域海浪数值模拟及特征分析

本文基于SWAN(Simulating Waves Nearshore)模式研究了2001～2016年石岛海浪有效波高的季节和年际变化特征,评估了不同区域风场对其贡献,并探讨了其与ENSO的关系。结果表明,石岛有效波高受黄海季风系统的影响呈现显著的季节变化:12月份最大, 6月份最小, 1%大波有效波高季节变化不显著。石岛有效波高年际变化信号显著,其与风速年际变化之间的关系存在季节性差异:石岛有效波高和石岛、黄海区域平均风速不同月份的年际异常分别在7、10月份相关性较高,而石岛1%大波有效波高和石岛、黄海区域平均1%大风风速不同月份的年际异常则在8月份左右相关性最高。不同区域风场对石岛有效波高场的影响也呈现了季节性差异:夏季,黄海南部区域风场对石岛海浪的贡献较大,而石岛风场的贡献较小;冬季,石岛风场的贡献较大。ENSO(El Ni?o-Southern Oscillation)事件会对石岛有效波高的年际变化产生一定的影响,但影响比较小。本研究旨在对石岛海浪在季节和年际尺度上的变化特征以及风场等影响因素进行研究,对该海域海浪场进行了详细的认识,对了解该海域海浪有重要意义。     

Nonlinear saturation-based whitecapping dissipation in SWAN for deep and shallow water

This study investigates the effectiveness of a revised whitecapping source term in the spectral wind wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) that is local in frequency space, nonlinear with respect to the variance density and weakly dependent on the wave age. It is investigated whether this alternative whitecapping expression is able to correct the tendency towards underprediction of period measures that has been identified in the default SWAN model. This whitecapping expression is combined with an alternative wind input source term that is more accurate for young waves than the default expression. The shallow water source terms of bottom friction, depth-induced breaking and triad interaction are left unaltered. It is demonstrated that this alternative source term combination yields improved agreement with fetch- and depth-limited growth curves. Moreover, it is shown, by means of a field case over a shelf sea, that the investigated model corrects the erroneous overprediction of wind-sea energy displayed by the default model under combined swell-sea conditions. For a selection of field cases recorded at two shallow lakes, the investigated model generally improves the agreement with observed spectra and integral parameters. The improvement is most notable in the prediction of period measures.     

大洋波浪特征：西太平洋波浪调查研究报告

本文分析了西太平洋实测的波高分布、同期分布、波高和周期的联合分布,以及波谱的分析。分析结果指出,大洋波浪的波高和周期都大于近海波浪的波高和周期。分布特征也不同于近海。波浪多属混合浪,会出现典型的双峰谱。     

自然海况下波浪特性的初步研究

通过分析大量的外海浮标观测资料 ,发现波龄和无因次波高之间存在非常好的相关性 ,自然海况下的波浪场满足 3/ 5指数律 ,其波龄可达到几十 ,远远超过风浪波龄的上限 1 .4,说明波浪组成波之间波 -波共振非线性相互作用是波浪内部结构的主要调节机制 ,使波高和周期之间具有很好的相关性。     

2016年苏北近海风场和波浪场多时间尺度变化的数值模拟研究

利用高分辨率的大气和波浪数值模式,模拟了2016年苏北近海的风场和波浪场,并与卫星高度计资料、散射计风场、再分析资料以及实测浮标资料进行了比较,验证了模式的准确性。基于这套模式结果,系统地分析了江苏近海的风场和波浪场的多时间尺度变化:季节变化、日变化以及季节内变化(台风、寒潮)。分析结果表明:苏北近海海域的风速、有效波高和涌浪在冬季和秋季较大、春季和夏季较小;冬季盛行西北风,常浪向为西北向,夏季盛行东南风,常浪向为东南向。风场和波浪场还具有显著的日变化特征,且日变化存在季节变化规律,离岸越近海域日变化特征越明显。同时,江苏近海还会经历季节内尺度的强天气过程的影响,比如台风和寒潮。     

A Model for Nonlinear Irregular Waves in Coastal Area

Based on the refraction-diffraction theory of irregular waves in the waters of slowly-varying cur-rents and depths,and the generation dissipation theory of wind wave,a model for nonlinear irregular wavesin coastal area is developed.In light of the specific conditions of coastal wave character and engineering ap-plication,a practical mathematical model for the nonlinear irregular waves is presented.with directional spec-trum in coastal area.Coast effect,refraction,whitecapping.bottom friction.current,wind and nonlinearaction are considered in this model.The numerical methods and schemes for wave refraction ray,energy con-servation of propagation,energy balance of the generation and dissipation of wind waves have been studied.Finally,the model is used for the directional wave spectrum computation in the Daya Bay.Compared withthe measured data with 956 wave bouys in the Daya Bay,the model results are in good agreement with themeasured results.     

The energy cycle of wind waves on the sea surface

The problems of wind-induced waves on the sea surface are considered. To this end, the empirical fetch laws that determine variations in the basic periods and heights of waves in relation to their fetch are used. The relation between the fetch and the physical time is found, as are the dependences of the basic characteristics of waves on the time of wind forcing. It is found that about 5% of wind energy dissipated in the near-water air layer contributes to the growth of wave heights, i.e. wave energy, although this quantity depends on the age of waves and the exponent in the fetch laws. With consideration for estimates of the probability distribution functions for the wind over the world ocean [11], it is found that the rate of wind-energy dissipation in the near-water air layer is on the order of 1 W/m². The calculations of wind waves [19] for the world ocean for 2007 have made it possible to assess the mean characteristics of the cycle of wave development and their seasonal variations. An analysis of these calculations [19] shows that about 20% of wind energy is transferred to the water surface. The remaining amount (80%) of wind energy is spent on the generation of turbulence in the near-water air layer. About 2%, i.e., one tenth of the energy transferred to water, is spent on turbulence generation due to the instability of the vertical velocity profile of the Stokes drift current and on energy dissipation in the surf zones. Of the remaining 18%, 5% is spent directly on wave growth and 13% is spent on the generation of turbulence during wave breaking and on a small-scale spectral region. These annually and globally mean estimates have a seasonal cycle with an amplitude on the order of 20% in absolute values but with a smaller amplitude in relative values. According to [19] and to the results of this study, the annually mean height of waves is estimated as 2.7 m and their age is estimated as 1.17.     

Three-dimensional linear solution for wave propagation with slopingbottom

This paper presents a three-dimensional analytic linear wave solution for surface gravity wave propagation over a sloping bottom that is valid for small, but realistic, slopes. The sloping-bottom linear model is compared to published laboratory data and to predictions of two-dimensional, constant-bottom nonlinear theories. The model is shown to describe the measured wave-height growth in the wave transformation region up to a limiting local Ursell number U_r of 0.35-1.0, depending on the wave type, although, as a linear model, it does not predict the harmonics observed in that range. For U_r<0.35, the harmonics can generally be neglected and the sloping-bottom linear theory agrees closely with both the published wave-height data and third-order Stokes nonlinear theory. As a three-dimensional linear model, superposition can be invoked to synthesize and relate wave structure in the transformation region to complex incident ocean spectra with both wind wave and swell components that arrive with a range of incidence angles. As such, the sloping-bottom linear model presented here should be a convenient useful tool for ocean modeling through a significant portion of the wave transformation region     

Improvement and application of a saturation based wave dissipation function in SWAN model

Wave dissipation characteristics in SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) model are investigated through numerical experiments. It is found that neither the fully developed integral parameters of wind waves (significant wave height and peak frequency) nor the high frequency spectral tail can be well reproduced by the default wave dissipation source terms. A new spectral dissipation source term is proposed, which comprises saturation based dissipation above two times of peak frequency and improved whitecapping dissipation at lower frequency spectrum. The reciprocal wave age (u /c p ) is involved into the whitecapping model to adjust dissipation rate at different wind speed. The Phillips higher frequency saturation parameter in the saturation-based dissipation is no longer taken as a constant, but varies with wave age. Numerical validations demonstrate that both the wind wave generation process and higher frequency spectrum of wind waves can be well simulated by the new wave dissipation term.